I can't believe we forgot tank grips! Seriously people it's the number 1 mod you should do to every single bike you ever own. Just do it you'll thank me later... Join us on yammienoob.co!
Well the don’t get an exhaust was for beginners this video is more general, if you have a bike you like and want to keep for awhile you should get an exhaust, if you just got a ninja 250 don’t bother with it
I don't know about all bikes, but on mine, the speedo cable goes to the front wheel, so a sprocket change will have no effect on reading of the speedo. Changing the ring and pinion in a car on the other hand will yield a different speedometer reading.
Tbh if you read the motorcycle handbook from the dmv, it mentions things that should be talked about with learning how to drive cars as well imo. Like SEE: Search Evaluate Execute
I took the written test 4 times to pass it. I only read one sentence on a random page when I failed the other 3 and that same sentence was a question on the fourth go. The clerk said “Wow you cut it close. If you would have failed one more question, you would have had to start over.” Having said that I’ve seen almost all of yammie’s videos 😂😂
Crusty pubes, fake news, snooze or lose, baby jews, jello cubes, divide by twos, friggen rude, not your dude, YaMmmmieeeee NOoOB This message does not endorse or agree with the above statements and withholds any and all legal formalities associated with the second ammendment that doesn't apply to me because I am Canadian... I don't know where I was going with this.
For those of you that may have questions, here are the answers: #4 chain Here's what those 3 numbers mean, in full: First off, Yammie is correct on the first number being the pitch (distance) between the rivet pins in your chain. Those are the links that are inside the rollers, and the measurement is taken from the center-point of one rivet link to the center-point of the one adjacent to it. The next two numbers he had sort of right. Here's what it actually means: These two numbers classify the width of the chain links themselves. This is taken from a perpendicular perspective from the first number's measurement. The width of the chain link is taken not by the longitudinal length that runs parallel with the chain's direction of travel, but the width if you were to look at the chain from behind the bike. it's the material thickness of the individual chain links on either side of the rollers if you were to look directly down on the rear sprocket. One last note: The reason why lighter chains make you faster is a concept called drive-train parasitic losses. All motorcycles' engines are rated from factory, usually with the dyno attached directly at the output shaft of the transmission. Once you add sprockets and a chain to the mix, the actual torque/horsepower the road sees is a percentage of that number because not only does the engine have to power the output shaft, it also has to use some amount of power to spin both sprockets and pull a chain between them. Considering that the chain-sprocket setup usually has a parasitic loss of 5-10% total engine output, having lighter components, mainly the chain, reduces that percentage, thereby transferring more of the engine's output to the road surface. #5 sprockets Alright, this one's gonna be hard and fast, so here we go: A) lighter sprockets mean less rotational mass. Less rotational mass equals less parasitic loss. B) Aluminum sprockets are more lightweight at the cost of accelerated wear. C) the smaller the diameter, the less of a difference weight makes. If curious, look up the physics concept 'moment of inertia'. This mainly pertains to front sprockets due to them being so small. That and the fact that the percentage weight difference between aluminum and steel front sprockets is significantly less than rear sprockets Point being: stick with steel front and keep the weight savings for the rear sprocket itself. One last thing: going down one tooth in the front is less desirable than adding 2 teeth in the rear. Smaller front sprockets mean tighter turning radius for the chain, therefore higher chance of chain binding and it causes accelerated front sprocket wear. #6 rear-sets Only one thing to add here: Go Vortex if you're in novice/lower intermediate group at a track day. Replacement pegs are inexpensive and simple to take on/off, so if you do happen to low-side and scrape a peg, you can have 2 or three full spare set for around $100-120. Go Woodcraft if you're upper intermediate/advanced track day group and your personal risk of falling/low-siding is small. Woodcraft's great due to the greater customization and flexibility of their hardware. Vortex gets you well within the ballpark. Woodcraft is for final placement and ergonomic perfection, but at a much steeper cost. #7 Clip-ons These are something you should consider in only three scenarios: A) Your stock clip-ons are not adjustable and are uncomfortable to use at a spirited pace B) the clip-ons have been damaged due to impact or something similar C) you're at a level to fully utilize the benefits they add to the bike's steering geometry and you can set them up to suit you specifically #10 Adjustable Levers No facts, just a little advice here: Recommend not doing this until you are fully familiar with and have built substantial muscle memory of the stock equipment, and how YOUR bike rides. Get the comfort level with your machine down first. Then go for these. Y'all have a good one.
You forgot about one big one lithium ion battery will shave off around six or seven pounds of weight and tossing that useless tool kit will help to. I did and it feels so much lighter
1. Cheap but important, as you mentioned there is nothing more important than the points where the rider contacts the bike- hand grips. This made a big difference for me on my Busa, being comfortable and the right diameter, grippier, you don't have to strangle it to have great control. 2. Then, stainless steel brake lines and new brake pads to suit- did this, then I could stoppie my 500+ pound bike with one finger- and I'm NOT a big guy. 3. If not new rear sets, new foot pegs- I simply swapped my factory Busa pegs out for a set of Harley pegs, forget which bike, that fit and were smaller but grippier. Cannot emphasize enough, where you touch the bike affects everything you do to control it. Even replaced the seat with one more supportive, grippier...
If you're a fellow Carbureted Motorcycle Rider, High flow Exhaust's and Filter's are going to require Carburetor modification. (Larger Main Jets) if you fail to do this, your gonna Lean out your Air/Fuel and possibly blow your motor. Depends on how much air your new set up displaces... But if you put a new Pipe on and your Bike suddenly stall's, probably not a good idea to limp er Home. Your super lean and your gonna burn your motor up. This is not a lesson to be learned the hard way..
On modern bikes that do not have a no ABS trim option, I think the speedo always comes from the abs sensor since that is easier and cheaper, so changing sprockets doesn't change speedo accuracy. I have changed sprockets on my 2019 vstrom 650 and my 2021 z400 and the speedo as gauged against gps did not change at all
Lighter wheels also give your suspension the ability to put more force on the ground. The reduction of unsprung weight gives you 12.5 lbs of pressure per 1 ounce of weight reduced @ 50 mph. 24 lbs @ 100 mph and, 36 lbs @ 150 mph, Respectfully. So lighter wheels definitely allow your suspension to keep your tires contacting the ground. They increase handling exponentially.
Fix your Speedo is a must! Bought a bike that needed one fixing n went down same day going fast in the canyon on a turn :/ bike faired good with bent brake pedal n loose clutch, I got a broken pinky too. All good and now I know my speeds at turns and how fast I’m going between gears
You forgot the cheapest dollar for herspers gain. The go-fast stripes and stickers. These little adhesive mods will have you pulling all kinds of dank nooners, and 200 mph top speeds on your 300 beginner bikes.
Not a super dumb question, no backup camera but there are some pretty cool "dash cams" for bikes that are small and record front and rear and are super cool to prove you were not in the wrong if an accident happens without needing to rock a goPro
The Speedo Healer on my DL1000 required hard wiring in the harnass, and messed up my traction control real bad. Had to cut it out of the harnass and splice the wires back together. Total garbage!!!
Best "Mod" I did was a coolant swap. R1's run hot already. Changing to a good coolant dropped my bikes running temps by almost 20°F at idle. No longer are my thighs burning for desire to move at traffic lights.
I put carbon wheels and pirreli tires on my bike. It's the best mod I've done. Very nice gains in handling. I'll probably do carbon wheels on any road bike in the future. The cost is getting better and I'm sold. I ride a 2018 Super Duke 1290, which went on a diet. It's 448.5lbs full of fuel. It's so easy to ride flickable. I've noticed two side effects. One, the low speed stability is less. It's harder to stay on a straight line under 5mph. Two, I don't lean as much. I can take the same corner at the same speed it requires less lean angle. I wouldn't recommend carbon wheels to my Harley friends nor to off road riders. A overweight bike won't see as much gain as a light bike and for off road wire wheels are pretty tough and potentially repairable whereas carbon is not repaired on the trail side.
Brake strobes. Recently got the STS Smart brake module, and it does its job of warning the vehicle behind that I am slowing down. Have you heard of it?
I just got a wonderful deal on a new cbr300R. This has been the best vid to mod my new bike. I've had 3 bikes before: a 250Intercepter, CBR600, & my beloved fzr600. I'm older wiser with enough speed runs, and want a lighter bike. Still, I'm bummed to not have the same 600 pwr. Anyway, I'm still locked and loaded for my new bike. Picked out a LeoV for slip on. I totally appreciate the guidance for more umph. TY😊 Great video!
Being old school I stay away from fuel injected bikes for obvious reasons like after market exhaust and rejetting without a computer adjustment, which gets pricey. I don't care to correct my speedo because I know there's a discrepincy, so I adjust for it. Next I always switch my lights to all LEDs, because they don't burn out and are brighter. Along with my throttle lock ( a must have) and heated grips, there are so many add-ons, it's really up to the riders tastes.
Also with a different sprocket the miles on your bike will rack up much quicker, lowering the value and closer service intervals. But on my 125 i don't care, I need the extra poke to get up the hills lol
I'd recommend NOT changing the exhaust. As soon as you change the stock muffler, you will reduce the torque at low RPM's, because you'll cause the jetting to be lean. If you have carbs, DEFINITELY do not add a slip on muffler. If you're changing your muffler, especially if your factory exhaust is super restrictive, then you will need to "re flash" your ECU to get the same off idle torque and throttle response. Make sure you get the chip to go with the mufffler. Or get a carb jetting kit. It's not worth the cool sound, when you develop a mild "flat spot" in the rev range at 4500 rpms, which is destined to happen if you don't change the tuning or jetting. Also DO NOT use a K&N air filter (You can literally see through these filters, and they are not filters). Do NOT drill holes in your air box either, because that ALSO changes the jetting.
Just did my chain and socket. Front sprocket - 1 tooth(15) and rear +2(48) teeth and it's faster but my mpg went down might go back stock front sprocket tooth (16). Love my Coffman shortly exhaust, power commander Vand BMC air filter. Love bike
"If you want to go ahead and upgrade your lights, just know that kits are expensive" *Laughs in $40/pair plug and play 6000 lumen @6000k led headlights*
@@mogan23z not if it's a quality, adjustable unit my dude. LED doesnt require a different projector like HID. Mine projects an almost identical pattern to the stock halogens.
My bike is new. I prefer to go the speed limit in some parts of town, so I go 40 in a 35. If I want to push it up to 4 over, I'll do 44 in a 35. Now to look into buying that calibration kit.
My bike's speedometer is less than 1% off... it's also a retired police bike... My roommate used to complain that I was speeding when following me, when I was actually going the real speed limit.
I added a slip-on (Yoshi Alpha) and disabled the exhaust butterfly valve (now stuck open) but left the CAT. It doesn't restrict air flow much and the weight is down low where it doesn't matter as much. If I cared enough, I would change out the lead battery for a lightweight lithium battery. Only get the Shorai brand battery and charger. A cheap charger can cause them to catch on fire, and considering the location of the battery, it'll roast your chestnuts for you. Anyway, you will save several pounds up high where it matters. I added a Puig windscreen for track but it cuts down on air on the highway. I added a Bazzaz fuel controller (like Power Commander), auto-tuner (so it's permanently on a sniffer making suggested changes to my fuel map), and a Bazzaz timing retard eliminator. The auto-tuner allows you to make any mods you want and it will simply give you a new fuel map for your new setup. For some reason, many manufacturer's retard the timing in gears 1 to 4. Gear 5 has the spot-on perfect timing. The retard-eliminator (I know, I know) is little doohickey that fools the CPU into using the gear 5 timing for all gears for a noticeable bump in power. I also added Yoshi billet aluminum engine case covers that bolt on over the stock covers. I call them crankshaft insurance. Yo, Crammie Snoob, I've posted several replies like this -- accurate, comprehensive, and (yes) funny. You have never thanked me. You're welcome. (^_^)
more damage is done to the environment by getting your exhaust(or basically anything) shipped to you than you'd do riding without a cat for literally every single day of your life. international freight does not abide by epa/dot standards. most of those big ships were built 30-40 years ago, anyway.
If you live in the United States and you ride a Hyosung, you might want to get a different face for your speedo, since kph is in white, on top, and easy to see, and mph is in a different color, on the bottom, and pretty hard to see. If you make your own face, you can use it to calibrate the speedo too
I noticed that the speedometer inaccuracy issue seems to be confined to Japanese bikes. My brother has two RE's, and the speedometers are accurate on both. He used to have a Husqvarna TR650, and I think it had a good speedometer. I have a harley, which has an accurate speedometer. My suzuki has a good speedometer too - because I put a Vapor trailtech speedometer on it.
See a lotta bikes with minimalist LED setups on the rear and they're really difficult to see. If you're going to modify your lights make sure people can actually see your indicators during the day
Carbon fiber wheels on my wife's H-D breakout would shave off 30lbs. That's allot of rotational weight savings. Unfortunately, that's also about $5k out of my pocket..
I’ve got a 2003 , I do track days and it’s stock but the gearing is changed At top end I goes 151 maybe if I tuck in 152 But I have no problem wiping round that track and over taking ppl and Higher cc bikes Oh obviously I’ve got adjusted rear sets and break up grade and suspension up grade and clip on s Any way it’s standard performance wise and it flys and I will say riding On the road your not a biker till ya done a track day
It’s kinda surprising to me that you don’t mention tank grips on this list. You used to talk so much about them and say how important they are for you and how they keep you in position while on those twisty roads. I’m kinda shocked. Great video, non the less. Thanks.
Please explain... how is a gearing change gonna affect speedo accuracy; a motorcycle speedometer references wheel speed. Engine rpm is increased by lower gear ratios, requiring more revs to reach a predetermined wheel speed. The only way gearing affects speedometer calibration is if said gauge is driven off the output shaft of the tranny as in a car. Correct?
Lol.. on a supermoto (wr450f) you can easily add 15hp with free mods.. so airbox, ignition and exhaust... are basicly already boss you just need to unleash the whole cabability
I went with LED lights and K&N filters on every car and bike I own as the first thing I do. Never thought about switching the wheels though, but with an old beat up duel sport and a cruiser it might not be worth it
It always annoys the hell out of me that the speedometers on bikes read fast. I figured that one out when I THOUGHT that I was doing a little over the speed limit, and cars were passing me. The worst? I got passed by a Mini. That's when a rigged up my cell and used the GPS on it to see how fast I was actually going. Thought I was doing about 110kph, when in reality, I was barely doing 100kph.
($50 Aftermarket Brake Light Module. My motorcycle came with one, (installed by the previous owner). It makes the brakelight flash whenever either brake lever is held down. When the brakes are held down, continuously, it will flash, the amount of times that you've program it to flash, then the brake light lights up solid, and then repeats the flashing sequence, until the brakes have been released.
Checked my GSX-S1000 speedo today it was 4-5mph off like 60mph is really 55mph! I figure by the time I change the gearing a little and put on a bigger Michelin Road 5 tires and it should get it back to closer! The Dunlop that came on my bike no longer exist so the one that replaces it is bigger taller so it should speed me up and show the speedo as moving slower so it should be pretty close then! And what little it’s off will keep me from getting tickets so it’s all good long as I know what I’m really doing but I do want it closer but doesn’t have to be perfect!
Yam.....trying to get an idea of a bike. I’m 6’6” 300 pounds haven’t ridden in many years. Was looking at a Suzuki boulevard 1800. What’s you thoughts?
I installed a Speedohealer, corrected the speed, but it caused the odometer to be off by the same percentage. I was not surprised. Checked with GPS. Why are mc speedomters inaccurate? My truck and car speedos match my GPS very closely. I hate inaccurate instruments. I used electronic instruments at work, 8% error would make the instrument unusable.
The speedometer error is annoying. I corrected my speedo and now my odometer is off. It says that I do t travel as far as I do. It is annoying that they can make the odometer accurate and they make the speedometer read high.
HATE how his vids have not the slightest info unless you watch it ? 1) Exhaust(slip on, mid pipe, full exhaust) - 1:22 2) K&N air filter - 3:24 3) Power commander or plug & play controller, dynojet - 3:54 4) Chain &/ sprocket conversion - 4:34 5) Sprocket - 6:12 6) Adjustable rear sets - 7:49 7) Clip on - 8:49 8) Speedometer - 9:21 9) Lighting - 10:49 10) Levers - 11:57 11) Lighter Wheels - 12:49
Start with manufacturers. Go through spec lists. Learn about bore, stroke, engine configurations, types, exhausts and all that. First do the basics then the rest of the stuff, you'll just get it easily.
Papa Yamyam I need haaallp My 2016 HD street 500 is struggling to get above 75, 5th gear basically slows me down, and I’m 100% sure it’s all due to my time learning the whole two-wheeled lifestyle
I've got a drinking game.
You drink every time you hear another repeat of the same tired busa joke.
Busa
hayabusa
I own a busa
Did you know I own a busa?
Tuna Bigonduos Haybususa
1:23exhaust 3:24k&n 3:54controler 4:34chain sprocket 7:49adjustable rear sets 8:48clip ons 9:21speedometer calibration 10:51lighting 11:46break strobing 11:57levers 12:58wheels
You're the MAN. Thank you.
Do a video on how to dial in your ergonomics and rider triangle that would be pretty cool my dude
I can't believe we forgot tank grips! Seriously people it's the number 1 mod you should do to every single bike you ever own. Just do it you'll thank me later... Join us on yammienoob.co!
Yammie noob: dont get an exhaust
Yammie noob: get an exhaust
Well the don’t get an exhaust was for beginners this video is more general, if you have a bike you like and want to keep for awhile you should get an exhaust, if you just got a ninja 250 don’t bother with it
I don't know about all bikes, but on mine, the speedo cable goes to the front wheel, so a sprocket change will have no effect on reading of the speedo. Changing the ring and pinion in a car on the other hand will yield a different speedometer reading.
I think i've spent more time watching bike videos than studying for my car driver license, thanks
Tbh if you read the motorcycle handbook from the dmv, it mentions things that should be talked about with learning how to drive cars as well imo. Like SEE:
Search
Evaluate
Execute
Lmfao exact same situation here
I took the written test 4 times to pass it. I only read one sentence on a random page when I failed the other 3 and that same sentence was a question on the fourth go. The clerk said “Wow you cut it close. If you would have failed one more question, you would have had to start over.”
Having said that I’ve seen almost all of yammie’s videos 😂😂
Crusty pubes, fake news, snooze or lose, baby jews, jello cubes, divide by twos, friggen rude, not your dude, YaMmmmieeeee NOoOB
This message does not endorse or agree with the above statements and withholds any and all legal formalities associated with the second ammendment that doesn't apply to me because I am Canadian... I don't know where I was going with this.
Jonny BigRig T800 this made me laugh a bit too much😂.
Was able to count 20 times Yammie Noob said ‘Sprocket’
🤣Stop Saying Sprocket🤣
Why?
Sprocket
Sprocket
Sprocket
I agree, he should stop saying sprocket, but mainly cause he didn’t give good info about sprockets..
“Dominator of Fallopian tubes...yammie noob” got me fuccking dead 😂😂😂
Order should be as follows:
1. Tires
2. Suspension
3. Sprockets
4. Everything else - pipes, air cleaner, tune
Depending on the bike, I might throw brakes on that list just below tires.
eh i would put shorter travel clutch at 2nd those are really convenient and feels good to use
@@neowolf09 I love me the idea of some nice ass brakes. But you need the tires first
@@oConshien Personally I'd take a miss on the ass brakes
But idk how to adjust my suspension 😳
For those of you that may have questions, here are the answers:
#4 chain
Here's what those 3 numbers mean, in full: First off, Yammie is correct on the first number being the pitch (distance) between the rivet pins in your chain. Those are the links that are inside the rollers, and the measurement is taken from the center-point of one rivet link to the center-point of the one adjacent to it. The next two numbers he had sort of right. Here's what it actually means: These two numbers classify the width of the chain links themselves. This is taken from a perpendicular perspective from the first number's measurement. The width of the chain link is taken not by the longitudinal length that runs parallel with the chain's direction of travel, but the width if you were to look at the chain from behind the bike. it's the material thickness of the individual chain links on either side of the rollers if you were to look directly down on the rear sprocket.
One last note: The reason why lighter chains make you faster is a concept called drive-train parasitic losses. All motorcycles' engines are rated from factory, usually with the dyno attached directly at the output shaft of the transmission. Once you add sprockets and a chain to the mix, the actual torque/horsepower the road sees is a percentage of that number because not only does the engine have to power the output shaft, it also has to use some amount of power to spin both sprockets and pull a chain between them. Considering that the chain-sprocket setup usually has a parasitic loss of 5-10% total engine output, having lighter components, mainly the chain, reduces that percentage, thereby transferring more of the engine's output to the road surface.
#5 sprockets
Alright, this one's gonna be hard and fast, so here we go:
A) lighter sprockets mean less rotational mass. Less rotational mass equals less parasitic loss.
B) Aluminum sprockets are more lightweight at the cost of accelerated wear.
C) the smaller the diameter, the less of a difference weight makes. If curious, look up the physics concept 'moment of inertia'. This mainly pertains to front sprockets due to them being so small. That and the fact that the percentage weight difference between aluminum and steel front sprockets is significantly less than rear sprockets
Point being: stick with steel front and keep the weight savings for the rear sprocket itself.
One last thing: going down one tooth in the front is less desirable than adding 2 teeth in the rear. Smaller front sprockets mean tighter turning radius for the chain, therefore higher chance of chain binding and it causes accelerated front sprocket wear.
#6 rear-sets
Only one thing to add here: Go Vortex if you're in novice/lower intermediate group at a track day. Replacement pegs are inexpensive and simple to take on/off, so if you do happen to low-side and scrape a peg, you can have 2 or three full spare set for around $100-120. Go Woodcraft if you're upper intermediate/advanced track day group and your personal risk of falling/low-siding is small. Woodcraft's great due to the greater customization and flexibility of their hardware. Vortex gets you well within the ballpark. Woodcraft is for final placement and ergonomic perfection, but at a much steeper cost.
#7 Clip-ons
These are something you should consider in only three scenarios:
A) Your stock clip-ons are not adjustable and are uncomfortable to use at a spirited pace
B) the clip-ons have been damaged due to impact or something similar
C) you're at a level to fully utilize the benefits they add to the bike's steering geometry and you can set them up to suit you specifically
#10 Adjustable Levers
No facts, just a little advice here:
Recommend not doing this until you are fully familiar with and have built substantial muscle memory of the stock equipment, and how YOUR bike rides. Get the comfort level with your machine down first. Then go for these.
Y'all have a good one.
You forgot about one big one lithium ion battery will shave off around six or seven pounds of weight and tossing that useless tool kit will help to. I did and it feels so much lighter
7:45 nuff said uncle yammie, this squid is about to evolve
1. Cheap but important, as you mentioned there is nothing more important than the points where the rider contacts the bike- hand grips. This made a big difference for me on my Busa, being comfortable and the right diameter, grippier, you don't have to strangle it to have great control. 2. Then, stainless steel brake lines and new brake pads to suit- did this, then I could stoppie my 500+ pound bike with one finger- and I'm NOT a big guy. 3. If not new rear sets, new foot pegs- I simply swapped my factory Busa pegs out for a set of Harley pegs, forget which bike, that fit and were smaller but grippier. Cannot emphasize enough, where you touch the bike affects everything you do to control it. Even replaced the seat with one more supportive, grippier...
If you're a fellow Carbureted Motorcycle Rider, High flow Exhaust's and Filter's are going to require Carburetor modification. (Larger Main Jets) if you fail to do this, your gonna Lean out your Air/Fuel and possibly blow your motor. Depends on how much air your new set up displaces... But if you put a new Pipe on and your Bike suddenly stall's, probably not a good idea to limp er Home. Your super lean and your gonna burn your motor up. This is not a lesson to be learned the hard way..
lol, I think I like "squid missile" as a better descriptor than "crotch rocket"
Changing to iridium spark plugs also helps in throttle response and it’s really helpful for tourers because of its longevity
8:47 lost a perfect opportunity to say “wanna go fast, well you gotta be comfortable on your ass”
On modern bikes that do not have a no ABS trim option, I think the speedo always comes from the abs sensor since that is easier and cheaper, so changing sprockets doesn't change speedo accuracy. I have changed sprockets on my 2019 vstrom 650 and my 2021 z400 and the speedo as gauged against gps did not change at all
Lighter wheels also give your suspension the ability to put more force on the ground. The reduction of unsprung weight gives you 12.5 lbs of pressure per 1 ounce of weight reduced @ 50 mph. 24 lbs @ 100 mph and, 36 lbs @ 150 mph, Respectfully. So lighter wheels definitely allow your suspension to keep your tires contacting the ground. They increase handling exponentially.
Can you do top 10 underrated starter bikes? I personally think that 125cc 2 strokes are pretty underrated
CB125F is highly underrated. Things amazing.
@@Luke-Godzilla my schoolmate has a CB125F, while I went the tryhard route and got a Cagiva Mito
GSX-R 1000 is the most underrated starter bike. If you can master it, you literally do not need anything else. Unless it's a Turbo 'Busa!
Y125ZR
I'm starting on a slow bike but a,"2008 gs 500 f"
Fix your Speedo is a must! Bought a bike that needed one fixing n went down same day going fast in the canyon on a turn :/ bike faired good with bent brake pedal n loose clutch, I got a broken pinky too. All good and now I know my speeds at turns and how fast I’m going between gears
You forgot the cheapest dollar for herspers gain. The go-fast stripes and stickers. These little adhesive mods will have you pulling all kinds of dank nooners, and 200 mph top speeds on your 300 beginner bikes.
Should I install a backup camera?
Not a super dumb question, no backup camera but there are some pretty cool "dash cams" for bikes that are small and record front and rear and are super cool to prove you were not in the wrong if an accident happens without needing to rock a goPro
There is even a yoituber that modded one of his mirrors to show a locd camera feed of whats behindert him
@@ObitoUchihaisgay send link?
@@ObitoUchihaisgay the dude that got chased by a helicopter?
@@achintyagarg8280 They are commercially available.
The Speedo Healer on my DL1000 required hard wiring in the harnass, and messed up my traction control real bad. Had to cut it out of the harnass and splice the wires back together. Total garbage!!!
Best "Mod" I did was a coolant swap. R1's run hot already. Changing to a good coolant dropped my bikes running temps by almost 20°F at idle. No longer are my thighs burning for desire to move at traffic lights.
What did you switch it to
@@timesque9790 First I switched to engine ice, but a friend talked me into VP Racing bike coolant and I am running 10° cooler than the engine ice.
I put carbon wheels and pirreli tires on my bike. It's the best mod I've done. Very nice gains in handling. I'll probably do carbon wheels on any road bike in the future. The cost is getting better and I'm sold. I ride a 2018 Super Duke 1290, which went on a diet. It's 448.5lbs full of fuel. It's so easy to ride flickable. I've noticed two side effects. One, the low speed stability is less. It's harder to stay on a straight line under 5mph. Two, I don't lean as much. I can take the same corner at the same speed it requires less lean angle. I wouldn't recommend carbon wheels to my Harley friends nor to off road riders. A overweight bike won't see as much gain as a light bike and for off road wire wheels are pretty tough and potentially repairable whereas carbon is not repaired on the trail side.
Brake strobes. Recently got the STS Smart brake module, and it does its job of warning the vehicle behind that I am slowing down. Have you heard of it?
125 to 600 for me, mad increase in everything
Shit man, that intro actually made me spit out water lolololol *D O M I N A T O R*
I just got a wonderful deal on a new cbr300R. This has been the best vid to mod my new bike. I've had 3 bikes before: a 250Intercepter, CBR600, & my beloved fzr600. I'm older wiser with enough speed runs, and want a lighter bike. Still, I'm bummed to not have the same 600 pwr. Anyway, I'm still locked and loaded for my new bike. Picked out a LeoV for slip on. I totally appreciate the guidance for more umph. TY😊
Great video!
I’m not getting tired of the busa jokes! They are great!
Yammie: Don’t look at me like that 👅
Noobs: you amaze me 😍
Tank grip pads are a great addition and a cheap one too. Should be added right after the bike purchase.
Being old school I stay away from fuel injected bikes for obvious reasons like after market exhaust and rejetting without a computer adjustment, which gets pricey. I don't care to correct my speedo because I know there's a discrepincy, so I adjust for it. Next I always switch my lights to all LEDs, because they don't burn out and are brighter. Along with my throttle lock ( a must have) and heated grips, there are so many add-ons, it's really up to the riders tastes.
just take the bus kid
I was looking at my speedo the other day next to my gps...stock its only down by 1mph across the board which i found interesting
Also with a different sprocket the miles on your bike will rack up much quicker, lowering the value and closer service intervals. But on my 125 i don't care, I need the extra poke to get up the hills lol
I'd recommend NOT changing the exhaust. As soon as you change the stock muffler, you will reduce the torque at low RPM's, because you'll cause the jetting to be lean. If you have carbs, DEFINITELY do not add a slip on muffler. If you're changing your muffler, especially if your factory exhaust is super restrictive, then you will need to "re flash" your ECU to get the same off idle torque and throttle response. Make sure you get the chip to go with the mufffler. Or get a carb jetting kit. It's not worth the cool sound, when you develop a mild "flat spot" in the rev range at 4500 rpms, which is destined to happen if you don't change the tuning or jetting. Also DO NOT use a K&N air filter (You can literally see through these filters, and they are not filters). Do NOT drill holes in your air box either, because that ALSO changes the jetting.
blah blah duhhh
Squid mod n.12: go on a diet (as a squid you'll definitely see acceleration gains when you racing other busa bois in Mexico or on the track)
Just did my chain and socket. Front sprocket - 1 tooth(15) and rear +2(48) teeth and it's faster but my mpg went down might go back stock front sprocket tooth (16).
Love my Coffman shortly exhaust, power commander Vand BMC air filter. Love bike
The speedometer part blew my mind
My husband is subbed and watch these videos. Everytime one starts up all I can think of is "laurel noob" "Yammie" "Laurel" "Yammie Noob"
Well hello there yammie
The K&N is going to allow higher micron level debris into your engine. More power, but at a shorter lifespan of the engine.
With twisted road thing you could just put a bike you dont use anymore for rent and make extra bucks, epic win
"If you want to go ahead and upgrade your lights, just know that kits are expensive"
*Laughs in $40/pair plug and play 6000 lumen @6000k led headlights*
China is magical isn't it
Apple airpods=£160
Chinese airpods=£3
Yeah and blind everyone with your glare
@@mogan23z not if it's a quality, adjustable unit my dude. LED doesnt require a different projector like HID. Mine projects an almost identical pattern to the stock halogens.
@@ROFLWAFFLEization you have a website m8?
My bike is new. I prefer to go the speed limit in some parts of town, so I go 40 in a 35. If I want to push it up to 4 over, I'll do 44 in a 35. Now to look into buying that calibration kit.
Thanks Yammie Noob! Learned new things today form your video.
My bike's speedometer is less than 1% off... it's also a retired police bike... My roommate used to complain that I was speeding when following me, when I was actually going the real speed limit.
I added a slip-on (Yoshi Alpha) and disabled the exhaust butterfly valve (now stuck open) but left the CAT. It doesn't restrict air flow much and the weight is down low where it doesn't matter as much. If I cared enough, I would change out the lead battery for a lightweight lithium battery. Only get the Shorai brand battery and charger. A cheap charger can cause them to catch on fire, and considering the location of the battery, it'll roast your chestnuts for you. Anyway, you will save several pounds up high where it matters. I added a Puig windscreen for track but it cuts down on air on the highway. I added a Bazzaz fuel controller (like Power Commander), auto-tuner (so it's permanently on a sniffer making suggested changes to my fuel map), and a Bazzaz timing retard eliminator. The auto-tuner allows you to make any mods you want and it will simply give you a new fuel map for your new setup. For some reason, many manufacturer's retard the timing in gears 1 to 4. Gear 5 has the spot-on perfect timing. The retard-eliminator (I know, I know) is little doohickey that fools the CPU into using the gear 5 timing for all gears for a noticeable bump in power. I also added Yoshi billet aluminum engine case covers that bolt on over the stock covers. I call them crankshaft insurance. Yo, Crammie Snoob, I've posted several replies like this -- accurate, comprehensive, and (yes) funny. You have never thanked me. You're welcome. (^_^)
The best intro on the channel
more damage is done to the environment by getting your exhaust(or basically anything) shipped to you than you'd do riding without a cat for literally every single day of your life. international freight does not abide by epa/dot standards. most of those big ships were built 30-40 years ago, anyway.
I would love to see your calculation sheet, cause this sounds like a load of bullshit
If you live in the United States and you ride a Hyosung, you might want to get a different face for your speedo, since kph is in white, on top, and easy to see, and mph is in a different color, on the bottom, and pretty hard to see. If you make your own face, you can use it to calibrate the speedo too
I noticed that the speedometer inaccuracy issue seems to be confined to Japanese bikes. My brother has two RE's, and the speedometers are accurate on both. He used to have a Husqvarna TR650, and I think it had a good speedometer. I have a harley, which has an accurate speedometer. My suzuki has a good speedometer too - because I put a Vapor trailtech speedometer on it.
speedo is on the front, but even if it was on the back it still counts revolutions. changing sprockets has no affect
You had my like in the first 10 seconds of the video 👍🤗
Tried the Rocket 2.5 lt yet? Come on Yammie..... ride the brute of the Triumphs.....
See a lotta bikes with minimalist LED setups on the rear and they're really difficult to see. If you're going to modify your lights make sure people can actually see your indicators during the day
Yammie is one of my favorite moto channels B)
Carbon fiber wheels on my wife's H-D breakout would shave off 30lbs. That's allot of rotational weight savings. Unfortunately, that's also about $5k out of my pocket..
i laughed harder than i should have with the sprocket references
I’ve got a 2003 , I do track days and it’s stock but the gearing is changed
At top end I goes 151 maybe if I tuck in 152
But I have no problem wiping round that track and over taking ppl and
Higher cc bikes
Oh obviously I’ve got adjusted rear sets and break up grade and suspension up grade and clip on s
Any way it’s standard performance wise and it flys and I will say riding
On the road your not a biker till ya done a track day
It’s kinda surprising to me that you don’t mention tank grips on this list. You used to talk so much about them and say how important they are for you and how they keep you in position while on those twisty roads. I’m kinda shocked.
Great video, non the less.
Thanks.
I liked the part where you said sprockets
This really helped! Thanks Yammie!
Please explain... how is a gearing change gonna affect speedo accuracy; a motorcycle speedometer references wheel speed. Engine rpm is increased by lower gear ratios, requiring more revs to reach a predetermined wheel speed. The only way gearing affects speedometer calibration is if said gauge is driven off the output shaft of the tranny as in a car. Correct?
Lever Mod is a must, especially with bikes that have bulky levers. they’re not too expensive or difficult to install
Really cool that you live in Austin! I just bought my first motorcycle! I love this city :D
Cheap slip-ons *laughs in Remus Exhausts* just got mine for my 05 speed triple 🤙
What are the lightest tires you can get on a super moto
Lol.. on a supermoto (wr450f) you can easily add 15hp with free mods.. so airbox, ignition and exhaust... are basicly already boss you just need to unleash the whole cabability
Recommend clipons and rearsets ahead of anything else. Motorcycles are not one size fits all. Make it fit right from day one.
I went with LED lights and K&N filters on every car and bike I own as the first thing I do. Never thought about switching the wheels though, but with an old beat up duel sport and a cruiser it might not be worth it
12:34 buys shorty levers, hopes they act as sliders when goes down...
Squid rider logic. 👍🏻
What about an aftermarket seat for more comfort/possible butt warmer?
Would it be fine if I just took the muffler off of my 400 or do I need one?
It always annoys the hell out of me that the speedometers on bikes read fast. I figured that one out when I THOUGHT that I was doing a little over the speed limit, and cars were passing me. The worst? I got passed by a Mini. That's when a rigged up my cell and used the GPS on it to see how fast I was actually going. Thought I was doing about 110kph, when in reality, I was barely doing 100kph.
($50 Aftermarket Brake Light Module. My motorcycle came with one, (installed by the previous owner). It makes the brakelight flash whenever either brake lever is held down. When the brakes are held down, continuously, it will flash, the amount of times that you've program it to flash, then the brake light lights up solid, and then repeats the flashing sequence, until the brakes have been released.
Checked my GSX-S1000 speedo today it was 4-5mph off like 60mph is really 55mph! I figure by the time I change the gearing a little and put on a bigger Michelin Road 5 tires and it should get it back to closer! The Dunlop that came on my bike no longer exist so the one that replaces it is bigger taller so it should speed me up and show the speedo as moving slower so it should be pretty close then! And what little it’s off will keep me from getting tickets so it’s all good long as I know what I’m really doing but I do want it closer but doesn’t have to be perfect!
Yam.....trying to get an idea of a bike. I’m 6’6” 300 pounds haven’t ridden in many years. Was looking at a Suzuki boulevard 1800. What’s you thoughts?
Grom ? 🤔🤔
Lmao
You definitely need a bagger.
Paul O'Neal yeah went with 1800 boulevard.
@@robertwohlford1547 how you liking it
I installed a Speedohealer, corrected the speed, but it caused the odometer to be off by the same percentage. I was not surprised. Checked with GPS. Why are mc speedomters inaccurate? My truck and car speedos match my GPS very closely. I hate inaccurate instruments. I used electronic instruments at work, 8% error would make the instrument unusable.
Should i do ecu first or other mod
"Lets get to it right f ing now"
But heres a 40 sec sponsor ad
Yammei: “Don’t do cat deletes”
The name of the video: “Am I a joke to you?”
The speedometer error is annoying. I corrected my speedo and now my odometer is off. It says that I do t travel as far as I do. It is annoying that they can make the odometer accurate and they make the speedometer read high.
Hey yammie really enjoy your content keep going
Amazing vid as always 🤙🏻
My squid missile will be teaching me respect come the early days of summer
On my GSX-S 750 sofar Yoshimura exhaust, LED headlamp bulb and adjustable leavers.
planning to change the exhuast system on my ducati v4..its there a big difference between the slip on and the full systen.
I love how much you say “sprocket”
I know this is an old video, but fixing your speedometer with a plug in with make throw your odometer off.
D-12 before my exam
My MT-03 can't wait
HATE how his vids have not the slightest info unless you watch it
?
1) Exhaust(slip on, mid pipe, full exhaust) - 1:22
2) K&N air filter - 3:24
3) Power commander or plug & play controller, dynojet - 3:54
4) Chain &/ sprocket conversion - 4:34
5) Sprocket - 6:12
6) Adjustable rear sets - 7:49
7) Clip on - 8:49
8) Speedometer - 9:21
9) Lighting - 10:49
10) Levers - 11:57
11) Lighter Wheels - 12:49
Where can i learn about motorcycles? I don't even know anything about them and there is hardly anyone that's rides them here in california
Say wut?
Start with manufacturers. Go through spec lists. Learn about bore, stroke, engine configurations, types, exhausts and all that. First do the basics then the rest of the stuff, you'll just get it easily.
Check out Maxwrist he rides in Cali
Just found your channel and I'm loving it. I'm looking into getting my first bike. What would you suggest?
What is your experience level
@@timesque9790 little to none
Dominator of fallopian tubes :-)
That is something that we don't hear often
Wait no quickshifter?
Papa Yamyam I need haaallp
My 2016 HD street 500 is struggling to get above 75, 5th gear basically slows me down, and I’m 100% sure it’s all due to my time learning the whole two-wheeled lifestyle
What is it doing exactly