Thanks for this video, I got the same kit from CJ Pony parts and am about to install it in my 69 F100 4WD. They did throw in a set of instructions and my master cylinder isn't bench bled but they gave me a kit to bench bleed it. Good video and it will help me. The bungee cord idea will be helpful too I believe.
My father has a 67 F100 that was 4 wheel drums, no power. We added the brake booster a few years back and made a big difference. Just did the front disk brake conversion last week and it's so much better. I almost hit the dash the first time he hit the brakes because he just pushed the pedal like usual. Different company, and it was pricey but well worth it.
Yea it’s definitely a learning curve when you upgrade the brakes. I’ve still got to upgrade to front disks and install the factory power steering parts I’ve been sitting on for a year now. Definitely want to drive the ole boy more this year. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore after 25yrs of searching I think I finally have all the stuff to do power steering for him now. It's a mix of factory and aftermarket both. Couldn't find everything factory unfortunately. It's already going to bee right at 100 degrees here tomorrow, so hopefully we can get that steering done within the month.
I had plans to put my power steering parts on over the winter, but we had out basement flood in the fall and everything had to be moved to the garage and I’m still trying to get that stuff moved so I can get my truck back in the garage. Hope to have the parts on by summer or fall at the latest. Best of luck with your project!! I’d love to see some pictures
Great video. I too purchased that kit for athe upcoming project and was surprised there was no instructions. I called cj pony parts and got nothing but attitude. Was told most of their customers are professional and can figure it out. I said I am sure I can figure out just wanted to make sure I was using it the way it was designed. Doubt I will buy anything else from them. Again thanks for video
Jeremy Duncan glad it helped you with figuring out what was needed to make it work for you. I didn’t even call them about the instructions I just started looking for a TH-cam video which I didn’t find one so I decided to post mine. Please subscribe if you haven’t and thank you for watching!!
I don't use them anymore. I had ordered a bunch of parts for a 65 f100 and they sent the wrong ones and never have been able to get that resolved. Same thing with LMC Truck except LMC would take them back but when they resent the "corrected" parts they were the same wrong parts they had sent the first time. I'll never do business with either again.
Thank you so much! I just bought my first f100 and it has power steering, but not power brakes. I was going to buy a used booster online so I knew it would fit, but I’d much rather have this new kit. Thanks again for making this video and letting us know the different things to look out for when installing.
Your welcome!! I’m glad to see it’s helped a few people I’ve still got to install my power steering this winter. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!
about to add a booster to my 69 AMX, i wanna say thank you for taking the time to video this stuff. i have to go aftermarket cause you cannot even find a booster for these cars anymore. ANYWHERE! personally i don't have a problem with drums; i'm a cruiser not a racer. My 65 GTO had great manual drum brakes ; this car if i'm going fast it's alot of effort; discs maybe soon but still need to be boosted.
Thanks for this video. I also have a 71 f-100 and I was thinking about doing the same thing. This video will be a ton of help when I decide to tackle it.
Thank you for watching!! It’s not a bad project at all once you figure out how it has to be installed lol. Hope yours goes smoothly and please subscribe!!
Shawn KG7WUB glad you found it helpful!! I plan to upgrade to front disk at some point also, that’s why I chose this kit. It’s capable of front disk already. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
excellent video, I've just unboxed my setup which looks exactly like yours, after spending an hour trying to work out how the linkage works! I decided to look on youtube :D I'm going to have to go back through my parts boxes as I can't locate the longer rod that goes to the Brake pedal.. I've got a '72 F100
Nice informative video. I just got this same kit for my 69 F100 along with the wildwood front disc brake conversion kit. Might be a bit overkill with the disks now seeing how good this booster works with the stock drums lolol
FYI, I did this a few years ago to my van, the manual pedal is set up for more leverage than a power brake pedal, there is a difference, I could lock up all 4 drum brakes and practically stand the van on its nose, unfortunately someone trying to beat the light making a left turn, they hit it head on, totaling it out.
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore I kept finding the manual master cylinders so weak they would not operate my rear brakes, years of them not engaging, the second I hit the power pedal they were working, I don't know how many manual master cylinders I went through, my brake warning light finally went off, pretty sad.
I want to put a power brake booster on a 1973 f 250 4x4 that I am building a engine for and putting power steering on also I hope I can get a kit for it that will work
The front wheels are stock with the 6x15 steel wheels I think. The back wheels are factory style 8 or 9 by 15s. I’m not running any spacers. I do have the DJM lowering kit front and rear and had 1 leaf removed from the rear when I lowered it. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I have not swapped the lines, both chambers are exactly the same size so it did not appear it would have made any difference to me. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I have a 79 f100 and I'm confused on the hook up of the front brake lines. I have same one in video but my original front line was hook to the bigger reservoir. Thanks
Yes I was a little confused myself when I looked at it because I’ve always known the front wheel reservoir to be the larger one and I noticed that these reservoirs are both the same size. I just hooked mine up to the line which was closest to the connection port on the new master cylinder and have not had any issues. If you do have issues with yours after getting it hooked up, you can always add a proportion valve to help balance it out. Thanks for watching and I hope your project goes well! Feel free to ask if you have any more questions and please subscribe!
Thanks for watching!! I think mine came with the bolts or I used the ones on my old master cylinder. I don’t recall having to purchase anything additional. Hope yours goes well and please subscribe!!
I wondered the same thing, I just assumed since it had multiple ports on the bottom so it would be universal, that was why it was bigger, but that was just my uneducated guess lol. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Did you have to add residual valves? I have a 68 F100 with 4 wheel drum & want to add power brakes. Kits I see say drum brakes require residual valves.
I didn’t add any additional valves and it works just fine. My kit said four-wheel drum or front disk and rear drum. It just won’t work on four-wheel disk.
Thank you for the great video. This answers a lot of my questions before I begin this upgrade on my 68 f100. Is the one you used a 7" or 8" booster?. I see both sizes available, I am just wondering which is better or will fit.
I think mine is the 7 inch booster, but not positive. There seems to be plenty room so I’m sure the 8 would fit also without any issues. When I ordered mine, I didn’t see any other options from TJ’s pony supply. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!
was the rod with heim joint ordered separately? I just ordered this same kit from summit and planning to install on my 1971 f100 4x4. Im also hoping the booster clears my valve covers (i installed cast aluminum holley valve covers for FE engine.)
Hey Jab! We actually have the same 71 F100 with the same paint job haha but I too wanna know more about it. My break pedal decided to not hold pressure anymore but I kept hearing noise coming from the front passenger wheel I think. I don’t know if that’s the exact location but there is a bit of cringing going around that area, break pads are fine too. I checked all my break lines and no leaks or anything. Do you think I could just need a new MC as well or is there something more to it?
It should work just fine, as long as you still have drums in the rear it will do drum drum and disk drum combinations. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Yea they actually work great, almost to good. Really the booster isn’t that small, the master is actually kinda big. It’s an optical illusion lol. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I had no clearance issues with the brake light switch everything fit as it should have. The heim joint was pretty much the same size as the factory connection. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
I don’t have a proportioning valve, been thinking about adding one to see if it helps improve breaking anymore. It was such a dramatic improvement over the manual master cylinder. I didn’t think I needed it. Sorry for the slow response.
Yes it will. This is why I went with this booster set up, it will do 4 wheel drum or one set of disk and one set of drums. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Thanks for posting, super helpful! I have a drum brake on all four wheels, I am wondering if you have the same setup. If you do, do it work just fine without a proportioning valve?
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. Yes I do have drum brakes on all four wheels and don’t have any issues and I do not have a proportioning valve. If you upgrade the front to disc brakes I believe that’s when you will have to add the portioning valve. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Sorry, I just now got the notification on your comment. Honestly, I’m not sure about what size the fitting is. It came with my kit. One of them had to use an adapter that was in the kit. The other one threaded it right in it depends on what your Truck has on the end of the brake line where it connects to the master cylinder
Hello there, I have the same year and model truck and did the same booster kit but for some reason my brakes locks after driving and braking for 8 min. I have to release the pressure to bring it back to the garage, I have quit trying to troubleshoot this booster . Do you know where should I be looking at and what I'm doing wrong? Thank you for your time, Henry.
Is it all the brakes or isolated to just front / rear or one wheel? Multiple things come to mind to check. Could be pedal or push rid adjustment, or a leaking wheel cylinder. How were they working before you installed the brake booster?
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore thank you for your fast response. So it was extremely hard to push the brakes when they gave me the truck. I decided to changed all brake lines and installed front rotors. That was the only problem. The issue is left and right brakes locks and can’t figure out why. I have to bleed the Proportion valve just a very little to release the pressure then they free up right away but it keeps happening to the point the truck can’t be driven.
That’s interesting, have you removed the cap to see if the expanders in the lid are dropped down to increase the fluid level? I found mine like that before even tho the cylinder was full. Not sure if the actual name of the lid seal with the expanders is called. Keep us posted!!
There is a link in the description that will take you straight to the same one I’ve got. It should have the specs on the site if you want to check it out.
I usually start with the furthest wheel and just have someone pump up the the pedal then hold it. I then crack the bleeder valve and they tell me when the pedal is at the floor and I close the bleeder. I keep this up until I don’t get any more air. If you want to go a step further, get a 1/4 inch clear tube, slip it over the the end of the bleeder valve and run it into a cup with fluid in it so it prevents any chance of air getting back in the bleeder before you close it. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I do it with the lid off the master, just be easy pumping the pedal. Hope this helps, feel free to ask any other questions and please subscribe!!
I have a 1970, all drum brakes. I was wondering if you really need to replace the master cylinder? Or is it possible to purchase everything else as a kit, and just reuse the existing master cylinder (my brakes are working fine, I just wanted to add the power option.
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore on the power booster we have adjustable push rod straight to brake pedal. I like the set up but it's dark here no photos I have a 79 f100 just finished doing a 72 f 100 for a lady not aloud to send photos
I see what your saying, mine also is adjustable straight out the back to the brake pedal. On my video at 3:00 I briefly about how I set the length of the rod to match my old master cylinder. I’m pretty sure that’s what your talking about. Keep us updated, thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
With 4 wheel drums you do not need the proportioning valve, but if your running front disk and rear drum you’ll probably have to have it to get the balance right. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Sure does, comes with everything you need just install it hook up your brake lines and top it off with brake fluid after you bench bleed it and you’re good to go. Only thing you may need if you have front disc brakes is a proportioning valve. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing!
I don’t see and clearance issues for the 3 speed on the column and the floor manual would be a similar column to the automatic. So I’d say yes your good to go with it!! Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Ed Grens I do not have a proportioning valve. From what I’ve read I will have to add it when / if I upgrade the front drums to disk. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Oh great, my son and I were talking about a few weeks ago and were wondering how the truck and your projects were going. I will send you a friend request on Facebook
It’s doing great!! I’ve not had any issues with the install at all. Biggest adjustment needed was in my brain after driving my F100 so long with manual brakes! I wish I would have done this years ago!! Thanks you for checking in and watching and please consider subscribing if you haven’t already.
Depending on what engine you have, there will be a vacuum port on top of the intake (V8) where the carb vacuum line and / or the auto transmission vacuum line hooks up. I ended up having to tee mine into the trans vacuum line because I couldn’t find another port to match what I needed. Hope this helps, thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Question I see that you have a 4 port master cylinder. Is there a certain way to plumbing it? Is it the left side first and right side or front than back on the master cylinder?
Yes there are 4 ports. There’s a left and right side to the front and rear reservoirs. I only had a front and rear line on my OEM master cylinder so I just used the ports on the fender side because it worked out better for my. You can use either side and the reservoirs are pretty equal in size. I would say some if you were so inclined you could use all 4 ports and run individual dines to each wheel if you wanted but since there are only 2 chambers it wouldn’t matter because if the right rear sprung a leak you’d still lose the left rear also. Thanks for the question and feel free to ask anymore if they come up. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore so I have this same master cylinder on my c10. But I was confused about the for port system. I’m not sure if I have to plumped out all 4 port than close off the onside I’m not using. I’m having an issue with my rear brakes there not working. FYI I have all new lines
Did you bench bless the master cylinder before installing it? If not you can definitely do it in the truck but it’s not so easy. If I has to guess I would start with bleeding all the lines again. I have issues with sticking shoes but that’s just lack if use and needing to grease the perches. How’s the pedal feel?
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore yes I did bench bleed it before I installed it. I only did the side I needed. So when I installed it the front works but the rear nothing. I notice when I step on the brakes it just looses pressure. Like if it still had air. I thought it was the master cylinder but maybe I have to bench bleed all for 4 than close off the one I don’t want to use
So the ones closest to the front on the left and right both use the front reservoir and the ones closest to the back both use the rear reservoir. As long as you use one front and one rear port and bleed both reservoirs you don’t need to bleed all 4. I had all 4 capped off when I bench bleed it then just removed the front one and rear one and connected my lines then bleed the brakes. Can you send me a few pictures of how you have it hooked up now? My email is jab74@hotmail.com
I was just looking at this kit on CJ Pony Parts.... you've mounted it upside down from what they show in the online pictures? Was that a hood clearance issue? Just curious....
No clearance issues what so ever. To make the rod line up properly that was the way mine had to be. Either way will work the same. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore I did the same thing to allow the rod to line up. Good kit but like said no instructions so you have to piece it together to what works for you.
mine came with the wrong firewall gasket waaay to big, this is the second thing ive ordered from them that was jacked up i am begining to think they are nothing but a joke
I just carefully straightened then some and re-bent them to where I needed them. I was lucky I didn’t kink them and mine weren’t that rusty. My opinion was if it cracks or kinks, I could a week spot anyway so it needed replacing. Just take your time and you should be fine. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe!!
Thanks for this video, I got the same kit from CJ Pony parts and am about to install it in my 69 F100 4WD. They did throw in a set of instructions and my master cylinder isn't bench bled but they gave me a kit to bench bleed it. Good video and it will help me. The bungee cord idea will be helpful too I believe.
My father has a 67 F100 that was 4 wheel drums, no power. We added the brake booster a few years back and made a big difference. Just did the front disk brake conversion last week and it's so much better. I almost hit the dash the first time he hit the brakes because he just pushed the pedal like usual. Different company, and it was pricey but well worth it.
Yea it’s definitely a learning curve when you upgrade the brakes. I’ve still got to upgrade to front disks and install the factory power steering parts I’ve been sitting on for a year now. Definitely want to drive the ole boy more this year. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore after 25yrs of searching I think I finally have all the stuff to do power steering for him now. It's a mix of factory and aftermarket both. Couldn't find everything factory unfortunately. It's already going to bee right at 100 degrees here tomorrow, so hopefully we can get that steering done within the month.
I had plans to put my power steering parts on over the winter, but we had out basement flood in the fall and everything had to be moved to the garage and I’m still trying to get that stuff moved so I can get my truck back in the garage. Hope to have the parts on by summer or fall at the latest. Best of luck with your project!! I’d love to see some pictures
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore I've got a bunch, I'll try and figure out how to send some
My email is jab74@hotmail.com
This was extremely helpful for the power brakes conversion on my 72 f100! Thanks so much!
Great video. I too purchased that kit for athe upcoming project and was surprised there was no instructions. I called cj pony parts and got nothing but attitude. Was told most of their customers are professional and can figure it out. I said I am sure I can figure out just wanted to make sure I was using it the way it was designed. Doubt I will buy anything else from them. Again thanks for video
Jeremy Duncan glad it helped you with figuring out what was needed to make it work for you. I didn’t even call them about the instructions I just started looking for a TH-cam video which I didn’t find one so I decided to post mine. Please subscribe if you haven’t and thank you for watching!!
I’d have sent the parts back and told them to pound sand. Attitude like that is bullshit
Got the same, "attitude" for a different question.
I don't use them anymore. I had ordered a bunch of parts for a 65 f100 and they sent the wrong ones and never have been able to get that resolved. Same thing with LMC Truck except LMC would take them back but when they resent the "corrected" parts they were the same wrong parts they had sent the first time. I'll never do business with either again.
Thank you so much! I just bought my first f100 and it has power steering, but not power brakes. I was going to buy a used booster online so I knew it would fit, but I’d much rather have this new kit. Thanks again for making this video and letting us know the different things to look out for when installing.
Your welcome!! I’m glad to see it’s helped a few people I’ve still got to install my power steering this winter. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!
about to add a booster to my 69 AMX, i wanna say thank you for taking the time to video this stuff.
i have to go aftermarket cause you cannot even find a booster for these cars anymore. ANYWHERE!
personally i don't have a problem with drums; i'm a cruiser not a racer.
My 65 GTO had great manual drum brakes ; this car if i'm going fast it's alot of effort; discs maybe soon but still need to be boosted.
Awesome, I hope it helps you with your project. Let us know how your install goes. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!
Thanks for this video. I also have a 71 f-100 and I was thinking about doing the same thing. This video will be a ton of help when I decide to tackle it.
Thank you for watching!! It’s not a bad project at all once you figure out how it has to be installed lol. Hope yours goes smoothly and please subscribe!!
I have a 1964 Ford f-250. That looks like a great kit.
I’ve been 100% pleased with the kit. No issues
Very informative video, thank you. I am building a 67 F100 and I am going to do a front disc conversion and power brake conversion.
Shawn KG7WUB glad you found it helpful!! I plan to upgrade to front disk at some point also, that’s why I chose this kit. It’s capable of front disk already. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Great video,,, u answered all my questions,, I have a 79
Awesome glad it helped you!! Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
excellent video, I've just unboxed my setup which looks exactly like yours, after spending an hour trying to work out how the linkage works! I decided to look on youtube :D I'm going to have to go back through my parts boxes as I can't locate the longer rod that goes to the Brake pedal.. I've got a '72 F100
Glad it helped,, hopefully it is in the box. Keep us posted! Thanks for watching and subscribing!!
Nice informative video. I just got this same kit for my 69 F100 along with the wildwood front disc brake conversion kit.
Might be a bit overkill with the disks now seeing how good this booster works with the stock drums lolol
You can never over do it on the brakes lol. Hope you found the video informative. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Thanks , yeah the ford f100 are barely coming back not a lot of videos like other ones
FYI, I did this a few years ago to my van, the manual pedal is set up for more leverage than a power brake pedal, there is a difference, I could lock up all 4 drum brakes and practically stand the van on its nose, unfortunately someone trying to beat the light making a left turn, they hit it head on, totaling it out.
Yes they are definitely more efficient than the manual drums!! Sometime they work a little too good. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore I kept finding the manual master cylinders so weak they would not operate my rear brakes, years of them not engaging, the second I hit the power pedal they were working, I don't know how many manual master cylinders I went through, my brake warning light finally went off, pretty sad.
I want to put a power brake booster on a 1973 f 250 4x4 that I am building a engine for and putting power steering on also I hope I can get a kit for it that will work
I put a fairmont's booster to my 1963 f250, a new brake deposit and the old one it's going to actionate an hydraulic clutch
That’s cool!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Lots of help
So you tapped into the pcv valve for your booster vaccum hose?
Yes I put a tee in line and worked fine
Awesome video, ive got a 1970 f100 with 302. If you dont mind, whats your set up on your wheels n tires? Did you add anything for the stance?
The front wheels are stock with the 6x15 steel wheels I think. The back wheels are factory style 8 or 9 by 15s. I’m not running any spacers. I do have the DJM lowering kit front and rear and had 1 leaf removed from the rear when I lowered it. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Did you have to swap the brake lines around? Had to put the front line in the back and the back on the front.
I have not swapped the lines, both chambers are exactly the same size so it did not appear it would have made any difference to me. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I have a 79 f100 and I'm confused on the hook up of the front brake lines. I have same one in video but my original front line was hook to the bigger reservoir. Thanks
Yes I was a little confused myself when I looked at it because I’ve always known the front wheel reservoir to be the larger one and I noticed that these reservoirs are both the same size. I just hooked mine up to the line which was closest to the connection port on the new master cylinder and have not had any issues. If you do have issues with yours after getting it hooked up, you can always add a proportion valve to help balance it out. Thanks for watching and I hope your project goes well! Feel free to ask if you have any more questions and please subscribe!
I got a 68 F-100 4x4 gonna do the same thing. 4 years later do you still think it was a good idea?
100% it made a huge improvement!!
Great video! Would you happen to know the bolt size of the bolts needed to mount the booster to the firewall?
Thanks for watching!! I think mine came with the bolts or I used the ones on my old master cylinder. I don’t recall having to purchase anything additional. Hope yours goes well and please subscribe!!
I bought one. I wonder why the master cylinder is so big like on mine
I wondered the same thing, I just assumed since it had multiple ports on the bottom so it would be universal, that was why it was bigger, but that was just my uneducated guess lol. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Did you have to add residual valves? I have a 68 F100 with 4 wheel drum & want to add power brakes. Kits I see say drum brakes require residual valves.
I didn’t add any additional valves and it works just fine. My kit said four-wheel drum or front disk and rear drum. It just won’t work on four-wheel disk.
Thank you for the great video. This answers a lot of my questions before I begin this upgrade on my 68 f100. Is the one you used a 7" or 8" booster?. I see both sizes available, I am just wondering which is better or will fit.
I think mine is the 7 inch booster, but not positive. There seems to be plenty room so I’m sure the 8 would fit also without any issues. When I ordered mine, I didn’t see any other options from TJ’s pony supply. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!
was the rod with heim joint ordered separately? I just ordered this same kit from summit and planning to install on my 1971 f100 4x4. Im also hoping the booster clears my valve covers (i installed cast aluminum holley valve covers for FE engine.)
Nope everything shown was in the kit with the exception of the actual hose I used for the vacuum line. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Hey Jab! We actually have the same 71 F100 with the same paint job haha but I too wanna know more about it. My break pedal decided to not hold pressure anymore but I kept hearing noise coming from the front passenger wheel I think. I don’t know if that’s the exact location but there is a bit of cringing going around that area, break pads are fine too. I checked all my break lines and no leaks or anything. Do you think I could just need a new MC as well or is there something more to it?
Do you have power brakes or manual? Check for broken springs or hardware. If nothing there, I’d bleed them, maybe some air in the system.
Can this system be used with any front disc conversion kit like the willwood from summit for example where I believe it's plug and play system.
It should work just fine, as long as you still have drums in the rear it will do drum drum and disk drum combinations. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Why the booster SOOO small? 😯the booster on my jeep cj7 is way bigger... Do the brakes work well?
Yea they actually work great, almost to good. Really the booster isn’t that small, the master is actually kinda big. It’s an optical illusion lol. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore thanks for the video and response. 😉
What did you do for the brake light switch? The Heim joint is too big for the switch to work, seems to me.
I had no clearance issues with the brake light switch everything fit as it should have. The heim joint was pretty much the same size as the factory connection. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Hello where is the proportioning valve
I don’t have a proportioning valve, been thinking about adding one to see if it helps improve breaking anymore. It was such a dramatic improvement over the manual master cylinder. I didn’t think I needed it. Sorry for the slow response.
will this work if I have already swapped discs in the front? Thx
Yes it will. This is why I went with this booster set up, it will do 4 wheel drum or one set of disk and one set of drums. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Thanks for posting, super helpful! I have a drum brake on all four wheels, I am wondering if you have the same setup. If you do, do it work just fine without a proportioning valve?
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. Yes I do have drum brakes on all four wheels and don’t have any issues and I do not have a proportioning valve. If you upgrade the front to disc brakes I believe that’s when you will have to add the portioning valve. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Part number ??
peche depihuamo Brake Booster Conversion Kit Black F-100 1957-1977
CJ's Part Number: BBCK31 cjponyparts.com
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore thanks
What size fittings go into the new master cylinder? I just got the same kit.
Sorry, I just now got the notification on your comment. Honestly, I’m not sure about what size the fitting is. It came with my kit. One of them had to use an adapter that was in the kit. The other one threaded it right in it depends on what your Truck has on the end of the brake line where it connects to the master cylinder
Hello there, I have the same year and model truck and did the same booster kit but for some reason my brakes locks after driving and braking for 8 min. I have to release the pressure to bring it back to the garage, I have quit trying to troubleshoot this booster . Do you know where should I be looking at and what I'm doing wrong? Thank you for your time, Henry.
Is it all the brakes or isolated to just front / rear or one wheel? Multiple things come to mind to check. Could be pedal or push rid adjustment, or a leaking wheel cylinder. How were they working before you installed the brake booster?
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore thank you for your fast response. So it was extremely hard to push the brakes when they gave me the truck. I decided to changed all brake lines and installed front rotors. That was the only problem. The issue is left and right brakes locks and can’t figure out why. I have to bleed the Proportion valve just a very little to release the pressure then they free up right away but it keeps happening to the point the truck can’t be driven.
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMoreI mean, I have to bleed the Master Cylinder just a very little to release the pressure
That’s interesting, have you removed the cap to see if the expanders in the lid are dropped down to increase the fluid level? I found mine like that before even tho the cylinder was full. Not sure if the actual name of the lid seal with the expanders is called. Keep us posted!!
@JoeJoe Make sure the vacuum line is hooked to a good port, hard pedal sounds like either lack of vacuum or something binding
Hi. What is the size from booster to máster cylinder?. I want to buy one but i need to be sure that it fits in my car.
There is a link in the description that will take you straight to the same one I’ve got. It should have the specs on the site if you want to check it out.
Any way you could show how to bleed the brakes on an old truck like this?
I usually start with the furthest wheel and just have someone pump up the the pedal then hold it. I then crack the bleeder valve and they tell me when the pedal is at the floor and I close the bleeder. I keep this up until I don’t get any more air. If you want to go a step further, get a 1/4 inch clear tube, slip it over the the end of the bleeder valve and run it into a cup with fluid in it so it prevents any chance of air getting back in the bleeder before you close it. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I do it with the lid off the master, just be easy pumping the pedal. Hope this helps, feel free to ask any other questions and please subscribe!!
I have a 1970, all drum brakes. I was wondering if you really need to replace the master cylinder? Or is it possible to purchase everything else as a kit, and just reuse the existing master cylinder (my brakes are working fine, I just wanted to add the power option.
How do you add brake fluid?
You had brake fluid just like you do on any other master cylinder. Popped the retaining arms off the top and lifted lid.
Did you drill those top holes in the firewall?
alec chamberlain No on mine they were already there. Their factory holes. Thanks for watching and please subscribe
I see you painted the engine bay.. did you remove the engine to paint the firewall?
Oh looks great
No just covered the engine and rattle canned the firewall.
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore
Thanks
Guess I'll climb in the engine bay.
That set up is all right for USA but in Australia it's no good we use ford falcon set up
Interesting, what’s the difference that makes is not work? Do you have any pics?
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore on the power booster we have adjustable push rod straight to brake pedal. I like the set up but it's dark here no photos I have a 79 f100 just finished doing a 72 f 100 for a lady not aloud to send photos
I see what your saying, mine also is adjustable straight out the back to the brake pedal. On my video at 3:00 I briefly about how I set the length of the rod to match my old master cylinder. I’m pretty sure that’s what your talking about. Keep us updated, thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I need ur help with this project where u from I got the same model and kit and it’s still hard
😉 I’m in Virginia.
did you not need a proportioning valve?
With 4 wheel drums you do not need the proportioning valve, but if your running front disk and rear drum you’ll probably have to have it to get the balance right. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
thank you for information!
Does it come with the master cylinder also?
Sure does, comes with everything you need just install it hook up your brake lines and top it off with brake fluid after you bench bleed it and you’re good to go. Only thing you may need if you have front disc brakes is a proportioning valve. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing!
Will it fit on 1972 f100 with manual transmission?
I don’t see and clearance issues for the 3 speed on the column and the floor manual would be a similar column to the automatic. So I’d say yes your good to go with it!! Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Do you have a proportioning valve as well?
Ed Grens I do not have a proportioning valve. From what I’ve read I will have to add it when / if I upgrade the front drums to disk. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Do you know the part number for this kit?
www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-brake-booster-conversion-kit-disc-drum-disc-disc-brakes-f-100-1965-1972/p/BBCK63/
Bought the 70 Short bed from you earlier this year, lost your contact info? Thanks
Oh great, my son and I were talking about a few weeks ago and were wondering how the truck and your projects were going. I will send you a friend request on Facebook
Facebook works, I can share photos
It won’t let me send you a friend request, I sent you a message on messenger
How is this upgrade holding up?
It’s doing great!! I’ve not had any issues with the install at all. Biggest adjustment needed was in my brain after driving my F100 so long with manual brakes! I wish I would have done this years ago!! Thanks you for checking in and watching and please consider subscribing if you haven’t already.
Where did you connected that rubber hose to? I can’t figure it out.
Depending on what engine you have, there will be a vacuum port on top of the intake (V8) where the carb vacuum line and / or the auto transmission vacuum line hooks up. I ended up having to tee mine into the trans vacuum line because I couldn’t find another port to match what I needed. Hope this helps, thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
Question I see that you have a 4 port master cylinder. Is there a certain way to plumbing it? Is it the left side first and right side or front than back on the master cylinder?
Yes there are 4 ports. There’s a left and right side to the front and rear reservoirs. I only had a front and rear line on my OEM master cylinder so I just used the ports on the fender side because it worked out better for my. You can use either side and the reservoirs are pretty equal in size. I would say some if you were so inclined you could use all 4 ports and run individual dines to each wheel if you wanted but since there are only 2 chambers it wouldn’t matter because if the right rear sprung a leak you’d still lose the left rear also. Thanks for the question and feel free to ask anymore if they come up. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore so I have this same master cylinder on my c10. But I was confused about the for port system. I’m not sure if I have to plumped out all 4 port than close off the onside I’m not using.
I’m having an issue with my rear brakes there not working. FYI I have all new lines
Did you bench bless the master cylinder before installing it? If not you can definitely do it in the truck but it’s not so easy. If I has to guess I would start with bleeding all the lines again. I have issues with sticking shoes but that’s just lack if use and needing to grease the perches. How’s the pedal feel?
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore yes I did bench bleed it before I installed it. I only did the side I needed. So when I installed it the front works but the rear nothing. I notice when I step on the brakes it just looses pressure. Like if it still had air. I thought it was the master cylinder but maybe I have to bench bleed all for 4 than close off the one I don’t want to use
So the ones closest to the front on the left and right both use the front reservoir and the ones closest to the back both use the rear reservoir. As long as you use one front and one rear port and bleed both reservoirs you don’t need to bleed all 4. I had all 4 capped off when I bench bleed it then just removed the front one and rear one and connected my lines then bleed the brakes. Can you send me a few pictures of how you have it hooked up now? My email is jab74@hotmail.com
I was just looking at this kit on CJ Pony Parts.... you've mounted it upside down from what they show in the online pictures? Was that a hood clearance issue? Just curious....
No clearance issues what so ever. To make the rod line up properly that was the way mine had to be. Either way will work the same. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
@@SalemVaOutdoorsAndMore I did the same thing to allow the rod to line up. Good kit but like said no instructions so you have to piece it together to what works for you.
mine came with the wrong firewall gasket waaay to big, this is the second thing ive ordered from them that was jacked up i am begining to think they are nothing but a joke
That’s crazy, there usually squared away! Sounds like yours was packaged on a training day unfortunately!! Hope it all got fixed!
How did you unwind the brake lines?
I just carefully straightened then some and re-bent them to where I needed them. I was lucky I didn’t kink them and mine weren’t that rusty. My opinion was if it cracks or kinks, I could a week spot anyway so it needed replacing. Just take your time and you should be fine. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe!!