in 2011 ,I put a 2002 disc brake rear w 3-73 gears and limited slip. best thing i ever did till i did bowl delete and elect pump. then the ts 6 pos chip! omgawd! now ialso put 2002 rotors on front and 2002 new calipers. only needed a 3/32 shim washers between calipers and iron recievers. stops like now! no effort. stock master. now all wheels are the new body style metric . it is a very good truck now. 7.3 in a 97 extended cab xlt. zero rust clean engine. and the cab lines up with the bed! forgot to mention , that was an entire swap . i had to cut shock mounts off old rear and weld in place. the mounted swaybar brackets to fit obs. not too much considering the result. i love it. now at 380k pulls a 14k lb trailer.
the 2002 width is greater than the 97 by almost 2 inches. the wheels are well placed in the fender. did i mention , it stops now and sometimes 5 minutes ago. unreal what a difference the disc vs drums made. and no more pulling axle to do simple brake job.
RTV on the metal case of the hub seal- always. Especially on a truck of that age and the inevitable rust, nicks, and gouges often found from removal of seals in the past. And the best stuff to use is Permatex's gear oil RTV formulation (green colored tube). You might get lucky here and there not doing it, but eventually your luck will run out & you'll be rewarded with oil contaminated pads or shoes.
Not sure if your still looking for this information. But if you are in the description of the video is the link to our website that has a detailed break down with leaks to the pads we used.
Haven't tested on anything older than a 95. If you your rear end setup looks similar to this id assume it would but can't promise anything. Thanks for watching!
When we resembled, we lowered the truck, then raise the rear axle from one side to let gear oil flow back into the bearing, then switched sides so both bearings received gear oil before driving.
Our seals did NOT come with a new slinger. It is good practice to find seals that come with slingers if possible. It will help prevent leaks. Sadly ours did not.
So far so good! And I never did anything with a proportioning valve. It might benefit me and I just don’t know it, but I never even really looked into those.
@@rnkustomz My worry is how hard/soft the pressure would be - affecting the speed at which the brakes engage. Another concern with not having one would be pad drag on the rotor when brakes are disengaged. Not issues there I’m hoping?
@@NKoobsthey range from basic at around 45 bucks to full on racecar stuff for 200+$. A basic proportioning valve is all you need, got one from Speedway automotive for 60 bucks
@ 3 minute mark, you won't have bolt clearance issues, if you install the bracket facing the correct direction. The calipers should be at the rear of the rotor.
So, with this setup, there is no longer a parking/e brake. Also, be careful on 2wd trucks. I don’t believe yours will have the 2 inch block so it could cause issues with the top brake caliper bolt.
@@rnkustomz Understandable. But those of us with manual trucks might want the option. Is there a caliper with the provision for one? Besides just part numbers, what are these calipers and rotors from if they were going back on a stock vehicle? Thanks.
@@CR500R you want to use 76 to 78 Eldorado rear calipers. The 79 and newer are too small for a truck and shouldn’t be used. You should also use D122 pads they have a tab to keep the piston from turning and parking brake from coming loose. The D52 pads don’t have this tab. Rock Auto have the calipers listed. Lugnut4x4 also has kit with apparently better parking brake levers and brackets but their cheapest kit is $690. They have a list of commonly asked questions and info about the swap on their site.
@@CR500R and to add Barnes four wheel drive have the brackets listed for $35. I’m not sure if these will work with the Eldorado calipers but am guessing they will as the calipers are supposed to be nearly identical in size to the heavy jb6 truck calipers. Barnes also have the Napa part numbers listed for both the rotors and standard non e brake calipers.
On trucks like this you do want an emergency brake. Especially with all the rust you have going on there. On mine I was pulling up to a red light once and as I was pushing the brake pedal one of the lines burst and the pedal sank to the floor. Luckily nobody was in front of me or I would have killed em. There's universal e brake kits on Amazon that are about 50 to 60 bucks.
absolutely no... neither pickup nor cab and chassis dual wheel Fords. the drums act as a spacer to properly locate the wheel from seating to far in, otherwise the tires scrub the leaf spring
it will not work on the dually, neither pickup truck or cab and chassis dual wheel Fords. The drums act as a spacer to properly locate the wheel from seating to far in, otherwise the tires scrub the leaf spring
What company did you get the disc brake kit from? I'm looking for one for my 1995 F350 fummins.
No kit, we pieced it together. Check the description out, we have a link to our website where the parts list is with links to everything we ordered
@RNKustomz I tried searching for your website an it doesn't come up with anything
Just tested, site is up and working. Make sure you are typing it in right. www.rnkustomz.com
@@joshcarter6058 I just went to the site, there's no issues as of 2/25/23, full parts list is on the site
Come from doing Subaru bearings, been scared shit less of doing my fronts... but yall are making me rest easy... thank you!!!
Looked easy peasy. Thanks for sharing.
Gonna do this on my 2wd 93 turbo IDI. Thanks for the parts list!
in 2011 ,I put a 2002 disc brake rear w 3-73 gears and limited slip. best thing i ever did till i did bowl delete and elect pump. then the ts 6 pos chip! omgawd! now ialso put 2002 rotors on front and 2002 new calipers. only needed a 3/32 shim washers between calipers and iron recievers. stops like now! no effort. stock master. now all wheels are the new body style metric . it is a very good truck now. 7.3 in a 97 extended cab xlt. zero rust clean engine. and the cab lines up with the bed! forgot to mention , that was an entire swap . i had to cut shock mounts off old rear and weld in place. the mounted swaybar brackets to fit obs. not too much considering the result. i love it. now at 380k pulls a 14k lb trailer.
the 2002 width is greater than the 97 by almost 2 inches. the wheels are well placed in the fender. did i mention , it stops now and sometimes 5 minutes ago. unreal what a difference the disc vs drums made. and no more pulling axle to do simple brake job.
looks like a new brake job is in the future for my whip
Thanks for the video and inclusive list. I am definitely going to make this modification
RTV on the metal case of the hub seal- always. Especially on a truck of that age and the inevitable rust, nicks, and gouges often found from removal of seals in the past. And the best stuff to use is Permatex's gear oil RTV formulation (green colored tube). You might get lucky here and there not doing it, but eventually your luck will run out & you'll be rewarded with oil contaminated pads or shoes.
I really appreciate the tip! I’ll have to look into trying this in the future. Thanks for watching.
What are the replacement brake shoes when they wear out? What do you ask for at the parts store?
When you order the kit it’ll come with instructions and they list all the parts and part numbers so you can keep servicing your kit when needed.
Not sure if your still looking for this information. But if you are in the description of the video is the link to our website that has a detailed break down with leaks to the pads we used.
were you able to reuse the bolts that originaly mounted the drum with the new convertion bracket? or did you have to get longer ones?
You talking about the bolts at 3:10? Look OEM, rusty haha😊
It's a tough life where you are from. The bottom of that truck looks horrific
If you take care of it, it's easily avoidable.
Nice job
Question where did you order the parts I have a ford f350 1997 dully I wanted
To up grade it
In our description there's a link to our website which does a break dish of everything we ordered. Thanks
love the content!
Question, so the bearings are not packed with grease…. Is it the differential oil that is keeping them lubricated?
Pack them when installing new or servicing, it take a minute for oil to get back to hubs
Thanks for the video. Will this work on a 1991 ford f250. Thanks.
Haven't tested on anything older than a 95. If you your rear end setup looks similar to this id assume it would but can't promise anything. Thanks for watching!
this will work on all f250 /f350 rear full floating axles from 1980 to 1997
Um.. how'd the wheel bearings hold up? I assume without grease they didn't last as long.
When we resembled, we lowered the truck, then raise the rear axle from one side to let gear oil flow back into the bearing, then switched sides so both bearings received gear oil before driving.
Those bearings are lubricated by oil bath from the gear oil, you didn't see grease on them when they were removed, so no, they don't need grease.
I was just gonna ask tht question if they need to be greased
the new seal come with the slinger (the flat plate between the bearing and seal ) or not needed ?
Our seals did NOT come with a new slinger. It is good practice to find seals that come with slingers if possible. It will help prevent leaks. Sadly ours did not.
No park breaks?
Would this allow for the retention of the ABS components on my 93?
Yes, no need to mess with the ABS.
Any update on how they perform?
Also, did you need a proportioning valve?
So far so good! And I never did anything with a proportioning valve. It might benefit me and I just don’t know it, but I never even really looked into those.
@@rnkustomz
My worry is how hard/soft the pressure would be - affecting the speed at which the brakes engage. Another concern with not having one would be pad drag on the rotor when brakes are disengaged. Not issues there I’m hoping?
@@garrettjones9136are proportioning valves expensive? I'll have to do some research.
@@NKoobsthey range from basic at around 45 bucks to full on racecar stuff for 200+$. A basic proportioning valve is all you need, got one from Speedway automotive for 60 bucks
I wonder how well this would jive with a Hydroboost conversion... Hmmmmmm.
I would think it would make them work even better but would need to make sure the proportional brake settings stay correct.
What about the emergency break
Didn't opt to re add that. The cost was too high considering I never used mine once in the 3 years of owning this truck so far.
Untill your brakes go out from a broke line and you can't stop. "Emergency brake". Very bad idea to go without.
@ 3 minute mark, you won't have bolt clearance issues, if you install the bracket facing the correct direction. The calipers should be at the rear of the rotor.
The brackets are facing to the rear of the truck….
confirmed... caliper is on rear of the rotor
Hey do yall think this would work on an ‘95 f150? I got the c clip axle
To our knowledge it would not work because the axles aren't the same so the brackets would not mount up correctly.
Where's your e-brake?
So, with this setup, there is no longer a parking/e brake. Also, be careful on 2wd trucks. I don’t believe yours will have the 2 inch block so it could cause issues with the top brake caliper bolt.
Someone put parkingbrake in this swap???
So what about the parking brake?
Parking brake was not re hooked hooked up. Wasn’t worth the price for me, havent used the parking brake for 3 years I’ve owned the truck
@@rnkustomz Understandable. But those of us with manual trucks might want the option. Is there a caliper with the provision for one? Besides just part numbers, what are these calipers and rotors from if they were going back on a stock vehicle? Thanks.
@@CR500R you want to use 76 to 78 Eldorado rear calipers. The 79 and newer are too small for a truck and shouldn’t be used. You should also use D122 pads they have a tab to keep the piston from turning and parking brake from coming loose. The D52 pads don’t have this tab. Rock Auto have the calipers listed. Lugnut4x4 also has kit with apparently better parking brake levers and brackets but their cheapest kit is $690. They have a list of commonly asked questions and info about the swap on their site.
@@CR500R and to add Barnes four wheel drive have the brackets listed for $35. I’m not sure if these will work with the Eldorado calipers but am guessing they will as the calipers are supposed to be nearly identical in size to the heavy jb6 truck calipers. Barnes also have the Napa part numbers listed for both the rotors and standard non e brake calipers.
On trucks like this you do want an emergency brake. Especially with all the rust you have going on there. On mine I was pulling up to a red light once and as I was pushing the brake pedal one of the lines burst and the pedal sank to the floor. Luckily nobody was in front of me or I would have killed em. There's universal e brake kits on Amazon that are about 50 to 60 bucks.
Will this work for a dually
Sadly I’m not sure on that. Don’t have any experience with OBS duallys
absolutely no... neither pickup nor cab and chassis dual wheel Fords. the drums act as a spacer to properly locate the wheel from seating to far in, otherwise the tires scrub the leaf spring
How would this work on a dually?
Sadly I have no experience when it comes to a dually. So I cant confirm or deny about the successfulness of this swap on that platform.
it will not work on the dually, neither pickup truck or cab and chassis dual wheel Fords. The drums act as a spacer to properly locate the wheel from seating to far in, otherwise the tires scrub the leaf spring
“As far as I know its stock” ****Leafs sitting on a 2” block***
Google it, 4x4 trucks came with that 2” block from the factory. Have a good day.
I've owned 3 obs ford's, 4x4, all had a 2" rear block with a ford logo stamped onto it. Go away
😂 Every Ford 4x4 since 67 has had a factory block in the rear, dingus
Needs some air tools
We’ve got some just didn’t rip them out for this project. Will try and use them for the future haha
@@rnkustomz much softer on the ears that that click-clack Milwaukee
Kinda crappy off topic video
Uh, did they not show how to convert from drums to disc? Or do you suffer from lack of cognitive dissonance?
@@TheRoadhammer379 it actually is kind of crappy, though.
Haha clearancing