I have a 1989 F-150 Lariat (XLT) 4x2 long box regular cab. It has the factory camper/handling package. It’s got sway bars front and rear, front disk brakes with antilock brakes installed on the rear axle only. With power steering, port injected 5.0 v8 and AOD 4 speed automatic with a lock up torque converter. It actually rides pretty darn good and has decent handling. And it actually has a pretty sharp turning capability. Tough suspension. Also has plenty of travel and articulation with good ground clearance. Bumps, pot holes, speed bumps, speed humps, rail road tracks, curbs and even the occasional ditch, no problem. And the body is as tight as a drum. It’s decently quiet too. Your definitely right about the camber change as you go down the road. But so far I have minimal tire wear issues. My truck does not get driven much. It still has the Bridgestone Desert Duelers my dad installed on the truck back in the early 1990’s from Sears. (I inherited the truck upon his passing.) They came with a lifetime warranty from Sears. They have out lasted Sears. So, I think my warranty on the tires has expired. Are you going to install the Ford Flex-O-Magic rear leaf spring shackles on your truck? They give an excel ant rear ride when the truck is empty and stiffen up nicely when you put a load in it. It looks weird, but it works great.
I daily drove a 73 Econoline, had 10" drum brakes at all wheels, manual brakes, manual steering, a friend found the rear brakes were not engaging, went through 3 manual master cylinders, rear never engaged, I replaced the rear hose, nothing, the day I put power brakes on and pushed the pedal down, the braking warning light immediately went out and you could hear the rear engage, evidently 'new' manual master cylinders made for that van, none give enough pressure to the rear. I decided time to put power brakes on when it rolled down backward in a parking lot, rear stops you going backward, power was enough to nose stand it when panic stopping. I drive using hand controls, one hand on the wheel, left hand operates gas and brake, yes I can one hand manual steering. Tho my 73 was totaled in a head on accident, "buy a dash cam and add it," moving a wheelchair lift, power seat base, hand controls, and modifying the van to fit it all takes a lot of time, money, and patience, along with help, because every bit of it is heavy, I prefer the older less electronic approach when it comes to vehicles, due to living way below poverty, I don't have the money to be replacing everything in a vehicle, and there is a lot in anything built in the last 20 years, requires an engineering degree.
The brakes on my 55 Stude Champion totally seized up when I was rolling south on Beach Blvd in Huntington Beach Ca. My friend had a shop near by and I was able to free the brake and get it to his shop. He was also a Stude person, he was restoring a 53 Champion at the time.
you both seem hella rad. love your story, and you both seem like such cool people. Really wish you showed more of the F100 rebuild though. like i wanna see how you final mounted the sway bar, would have been a huge help to see where you got the parts. i am trying to buy springs but i cant find anyone that post spring rates....keep up the videos.. Cheers
My 1968 F100 has the twin I Beam. Never wore old a set of tires, they would rout out first. Just recently though I hit a bump and then it kept sounding like something broke. The year before I replaced the rear shocks. Should have done the fronts then too. They looked ok and seem to still function. We'll what happen the drive side front shock froze solid, When hit the bump it ripped the bottom of the shock and shock mount to pieces. It was fun trying to find a replacement mount. It mounted to the radius arm. It took a week to find. So, those with old trucks watch those shocks. It could not hurt the Twin I Beam though
Where can I find replacement lower shock perchs? My 73 snapped the driver side in two pieces. Ones still attached to the radius arm. And the others dangling with the shock .
Oh man. I have and drive a 1966 f-100 . I hope to be able to fix it up like you did this. I can't do the work myself. Bad back and only a driveway anyway. If I get the money together I will have a mechanic do it. That takes the pride out of it though. Great video you guys😁👍
Hey, I have a 1966 f-100 too, since 2020, with drum brakes still, but with a new dual reservoir master cylinder. The thing is, it stops slow and can go fast! But at least the hydraulics are a little safer, same story. Speedway sold me the MC and I learned to do double flare lines with copper / nickel, not too difficult. I'm old and work in the driveway too. Back okay but joints get sore!
After watching your video, I just realized the 66 F100 I picked up 2 weeks ago has dropped ibeams! Score! Lol No wonder it looked a little lower than my old 66.
Look those beams over close, there was a beautiful 70 damaged when the drop beam cracked a weld and dropped the truck on the street. The drop beams are not as durable as what the factory used!
I want to do the exact same thing for the front end on the 1965 F100 that I am putting together. Could you give me some specifics on the the coil springs that you used. Also, any help you could provide on finding replacement coil spring bushings would be appreciated. Can't find them anywhere.
Felicitaciones, buen video...acabo de comprar una F100 del 66 en pesimas condiciones y comensaré a repararla desde cero, alguien sabe como puedo adquirir repuestos originales?
Just bought my dream truck and very first restoration project a 1968 for f250 camper special doing some suspension work as well right now getting the motor dialed in could use some advice how would you go about lifting the cab off the truck to sand down the frame ? Is this a major step in restoring an old car is lifting the cab and bed off the frame nessary ?
Sus recomendaciones son muy interesante e impirtante.Yo hablo por mi experiencia vivida. Mi compro una Ford F.100 1955.Esta tenia suspensión delantera y trasera de ballestas motor V8 292 caja sincronica de 4 velocidades mas retro. La ballesta hacia el andar por terrenos irregulares un aventura un sufrir. Luego mi hermano compro una F.100 1972 V8 Sincronica con suspensión Twin Bean y me parecio como andar en un Lincoln o un Olsmobile un adelanto increible un exito total y definitivo.Yo les sugiero con todo respeto lo repitan graba bado en español para millones de latinos que tienen estad joyss de Ford Motor Company. Franklin Larreal Varela.20/03/2024.
It would have been less expensive and better handling to have just put a bolt on crown Vic front end !! Which would have rack and pinion disc brakes and gave the truck a lower front end. But who cares I’m not the one waisting money on I beams..
I have a 1989 F-150 Lariat (XLT) 4x2 long box regular cab. It has the factory camper/handling package. It’s got sway bars front and rear, front disk brakes with antilock brakes installed on the rear axle only. With power steering, port injected 5.0 v8 and AOD 4 speed automatic with a lock up torque converter. It actually rides pretty darn good and has decent handling. And it actually has a pretty sharp turning capability.
Tough suspension. Also has plenty of travel and articulation with good ground clearance. Bumps, pot holes, speed bumps, speed humps, rail road tracks, curbs and even the occasional ditch, no problem. And the body is as tight as a drum. It’s decently quiet too.
Your definitely right about the camber change as you go down the road. But so far I have minimal tire wear issues. My truck does not get driven much. It still has the Bridgestone Desert Duelers my dad installed on the truck back in the early 1990’s from Sears. (I inherited the truck upon his passing.) They came with a lifetime warranty from Sears. They have out lasted Sears. So, I think my warranty on the tires has expired.
Are you going to install the Ford Flex-O-Magic rear leaf spring shackles on your truck? They give an excel ant rear ride when the truck is empty and stiffen up nicely when you put a load in it. It looks weird, but it works great.
I like that you kept the I Beam but thoughtfully upgraded suspension and brakes. It's still a truck!
I'm really curious what Bilstein part numbers you used
Thank you for the call out. Your truck is looking awesome!! Love the video.
Even though; very strange, nice story of how you two met! Congratulations BTW! 10years in a good sign! Take good care you two! 👍🌆
what a thing of beauty. nice work!
Great video! You helped me a lot. Have a great day!
I really want a prerunner with twin I beams. Such a strong design.
I daily drove a 73 Econoline, had 10" drum brakes at all wheels, manual brakes, manual steering, a friend found the rear brakes were not engaging, went through 3 manual master cylinders, rear never engaged, I replaced the rear hose, nothing, the day I put power brakes on and pushed the pedal down, the braking warning light immediately went out and you could hear the rear engage, evidently 'new' manual master cylinders made for that van, none give enough pressure to the rear. I decided time to put power brakes on when it rolled down backward in a parking lot, rear stops you going backward, power was enough to nose stand it when panic stopping. I drive using hand controls, one hand on the wheel, left hand operates gas and brake, yes I can one hand manual steering. Tho my 73 was totaled in a head on accident, "buy a dash cam and add it," moving a wheelchair lift, power seat base, hand controls, and modifying the van to fit it all takes a lot of time, money, and patience, along with help, because every bit of it is heavy, I prefer the older less electronic approach when it comes to vehicles, due to living way below poverty, I don't have the money to be replacing everything in a vehicle, and there is a lot in anything built in the last 20 years, requires an engineering degree.
I'm sitting here chuckling over the Studebaker brake story... hahahaha... What a story!
Wish I could drop off my 66 F100 with you fine folks 😆
awesome relationship story!
The brakes on my 55 Stude Champion totally seized up when I was rolling south on Beach Blvd in Huntington Beach Ca. My friend had a shop near by and I was able to free the brake and get it to his shop. He was also a Stude person, he was restoring a 53 Champion at the time.
Wow great story 👍👍
you both seem hella rad. love your story, and you both seem like such cool people. Really wish you showed more of the F100 rebuild though. like i wanna see how you final mounted the sway bar, would have been a huge help to see where you got the parts. i am trying to buy springs but i cant find anyone that post spring rates....keep up the videos.. Cheers
My 1968 F100 has the twin I Beam. Never wore old a set of tires, they would rout out first. Just recently though I hit a bump and then it kept sounding like something broke. The year before I replaced the rear shocks. Should have done the fronts then too. They looked ok and seem to still function. We'll what happen the drive side front shock froze solid, When hit the bump it ripped the bottom of the shock and shock mount to pieces. It was fun trying to find a replacement mount. It mounted to the radius arm. It took a week to find. So, those with old trucks watch those shocks. It could not hurt the Twin I Beam though
removing this setup in my 75 for a 4x4 conversion, works good for summer but not winter and wet.
That's a real Woman right there!
what does loosing breaks on the studebaker have to do with rebuilding the I beam suspension?
How did you get spring washer to stay in place while tightening
Where can I find replacement lower shock perchs? My 73 snapped the driver side in two pieces. Ones still attached to the radius arm. And the others dangling with the shock .
Oh man. I have and drive a 1966 f-100 . I hope to be able to fix it up like you did this. I can't do the work myself. Bad back and only a driveway anyway. If I get the money together I will have a mechanic do it. That takes the pride out of it though. Great video you guys😁👍
Hey, I have a 1966 f-100 too, since 2020, with drum brakes still, but with a new dual reservoir master cylinder. The thing is, it stops slow and can go fast! But at least the hydraulics are a little safer, same story. Speedway sold me the MC and I learned to do double flare lines with copper / nickel, not too difficult. I'm old and work in the driveway too. Back okay but joints get sore!
@@bluetruck53 Love it! Get that truck to stop fast!
What model part# Bilstein shocks did you use on the twin I beam build?
After watching your video, I just realized the 66 F100 I picked up 2 weeks ago has dropped ibeams! Score! Lol No wonder it looked a little lower than my old 66.
Nice!!
Look those beams over close, there was a beautiful 70 damaged when the drop beam cracked a weld and dropped the truck on the street. The drop beams are not as durable as what the factory used!
How did you attach the sway bar. Make bolt on brackets? Weld it on? I found a sway bar I want to use. But really don't want to weld on the Ibeam.
I want to do the exact same thing for the front end on the 1965 F100 that I am putting together. Could you give me some specifics on the the coil springs that you used. Also, any help you could provide on finding replacement coil spring bushings would be appreciated. Can't find them anywhere.
What are the bilstein shocks you used on your F-100
The F250 and F350 still come with twin I beam in rwd form in 2023.
The Econoline continued to use the I-beam through 2013, tho it had balljoints instead of kingpins.
thats how it happens
Felicitaciones, buen video...acabo de comprar una F100 del 66 en pesimas condiciones y comensaré a repararla desde cero, alguien sabe como puedo adquirir repuestos originales?
What was the part number for the sway bar you used?
Nawce, I plan on doing this swap to my 92' Jaguar xj40 💁🏼♀️🍖🐆
At least you kicked off those flip flops LOL!!!!!
😂
When it comes to stopping power, drum brakes are actually superior to disk.
Just bought my dream truck and very first restoration project a 1968 for f250 camper special doing some suspension work as well right now getting the motor dialed in could use some advice how would you go about lifting the cab off the truck to sand down the frame ? Is this a major step in restoring an old car is lifting the cab and bed off the frame nessary ?
Open doors, put a wood beam through the door opening, lift from there.
im trying to buy the same kit you bough but it does not give me the option to get 12 in rotors
I want to know how it drives when done.
Sus recomendaciones son muy interesante e impirtante.Yo hablo por mi experiencia vivida. Mi compro una Ford F.100 1955.Esta tenia suspensión delantera y trasera de ballestas motor V8 292 caja sincronica de 4 velocidades mas retro. La ballesta hacia el andar por terrenos irregulares un aventura un sufrir. Luego mi hermano compro una F.100 1972 V8 Sincronica con suspensión Twin Bean y me parecio como andar en un Lincoln o un Olsmobile un adelanto increible un exito total y definitivo.Yo les sugiero con todo respeto lo repitan graba bado en español para millones de latinos que tienen estad joyss de Ford Motor Company. Franklin Larreal Varela.20/03/2024.
Nice haircut bro 👍
Yeah. I was looking pretty rough.
do you do any restoration i would like to drop of my truck with, y'all let me know
Do you have a shop in the DFW area?
We are located about halfway between ft worth and Decatur
“Keep it classy” 😂
fun
you crazy girl , tryin stop the car from front
Some of us have to learn the hard way!
@@GreaseGirlGarage
I’d like to know the type bilstein shocks
I really want to have the very same setup as your man
Someone give him a big sandwich or three.
It would have been less expensive and better handling to have just put a bolt on crown Vic front end !! Which would have rack and pinion disc brakes and gave the truck a lower front end. But who cares I’m not the one waisting money on I beams..