Yep. Pole rot. I'm about to get a pole garage. But research is needed. Knowledge is a blessing for the future. So I have a residential house. There is a water table run off problem. One contractor uses treated wood set in crushed rock. Real bad idea for my situation. It should be wrapped in some sort of plastic up past the ground level and posts have two notches , one below and one above on opposite of the post. All set in concrete. I'm not a builder, I'm doing research and found this information. Thanks for you video to show us what the heck is pole rot.
Negative on the plastic wrap. Try to refrain from placing even "ground contact" pressure treated lumber below grade in dirt or concrete. Consider mounting above grade on concrete footing as video creator did. Good luck and hope things go (or went) easily for you :-)!!!
I hoped this video would help me replace my concreted in mailbox post, but I don't think so. In Indiana, I will have to wait till spring to dig a new hole for a new post.
Once I jacked up the rafters, the old post was pretty much rotted and just pulled it up in pieces. I then made squared it off. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for the comment.
*THIS VIDEO IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE WHY YOU SHOULD NOT ASSUME A POST IS ROTTEN THROUGH!* This entire video was a severe waste of money, although I recognize it has personal pride value, and these posts were quite solid after 20 years. All these posts really needed was some wood petrifier, and sealing with wood epoxy...finished with some used motor oil treatment. If one really wanted to be sure the posts won't rot for 50 years...then liquid rubber instead of the motor oil & gravel drainage. *But really...just wood petrifier, epoxy, and some motor oil would give these posts another 25 years minimum. Save your money, do a core sample BEFORE deciding to waste money on unnecessary repairs.*
My posts are 6x6 corner posts and are 20’ tall. I’m trying to figure out how to support the roof while I repair it. It’s a big job and hard to do myself.
Outstanding! We had a similar situation with one of the posts supporting the portico over our front door; decay at the dirt line and cement about 14 inches below ground level. I had already figured out how I was going to do the repair, and then I found this video that just confirmed it was going to be a good fix. I added the extra precaution of soaking the post end in Tenino Copper Naphthenate before I attached the post base.
You concrete is way to small. Quick rule of thumb is 3 x post diameter. So a 6x6 needs a 18 inch concrete foot(roughly). My local code is the post width is how much concrete needs to be on all sides. So a 6x6 is just over 8 inches at its widest point so I would need 8 inches out from each corner to outside edge of the sonotube.We use 24 inch sonotubes fpr a 6x6 post to meet code. Also the footing needs to be below your frost line which is 36" in my state.
Hellcat, is that dimension you state based on the post being buried in the concrete like back in the day (think so). These days the posts are pretty much required to sit on top of the concrete post. In the IRC code the base (footer) that sits down in the hole below the frost line is wide like you state and then it shows a concrete tube sitting on top of that footer and the deck post attached and sitting on top of the concrete. The concrete tube is 12" wide or smaller in the photo and not 24" wide as you state.
How did you mate the new concrete to the top of the pile / old concrete in the ground? Drill holes and rebar? Clean / use a slurry? Or just set the form tube on top and pour?
Two feet is good. My problems was to ensure leaving enough of tube above ground to reduce exposure to carpenter ants and moisture for rot where I put post on top..
Yep that is exactly how I would do this repair, well done sir.
I got 2 on the front of my building I thought I'll have to replace the whole post. This way will save me a ton of time and money.
Great, DIY Video! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🏌🏾♂️
Well done. Should outlast everything else around it.
hi there well done john
Yep. Pole rot. I'm about to get a pole garage. But research is needed. Knowledge is a blessing for the future.
So I have a residential house. There is a water table run off problem.
One contractor uses treated wood set in crushed rock. Real bad idea for my situation. It should be wrapped in some sort of plastic up past the ground level and posts have two notches , one below and one above on opposite of the post. All set in concrete. I'm not a builder, I'm doing research and found this information.
Thanks for you video to show us what the heck is pole rot.
Negative on the plastic wrap. Try to refrain from placing even "ground contact" pressure treated lumber below grade in dirt or concrete. Consider mounting above grade on concrete footing as video creator did. Good luck and hope things go (or went) easily for you :-)!!!
I hoped this video would help me replace my concreted in mailbox post, but I don't think so. In Indiana, I will have to wait till spring to dig a new hole for a new post.
Good work
It hard to hear what you are saying.
How did you sign the old one out?
Once I jacked up the rafters, the old post was pretty much rotted and just pulled it up in pieces. I then made squared it off. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for the comment.
*THIS VIDEO IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE WHY YOU SHOULD NOT ASSUME A POST IS ROTTEN THROUGH!*
This entire video was a severe waste of money, although I recognize it has personal pride value, and these posts were quite solid after 20 years. All these posts really needed was some wood petrifier, and sealing with wood epoxy...finished with some used motor oil treatment. If one really wanted to be sure the posts won't rot for 50 years...then liquid rubber instead of the motor oil & gravel drainage. *But really...just wood petrifier, epoxy, and some motor oil would give these posts another 25 years minimum. Save your money, do a core sample BEFORE deciding to waste money on unnecessary repairs.*
My posts are 6x6 corner posts and are 20’ tall. I’m trying to figure out how to support the roof while I repair it. It’s a big job and hard to do myself.
Is that a spider on your neck at the start?
It sure looks like it if you zoom in. Yikes
😬
great video thank you sir, we have the same issues started. can you tell me the name of the post brackets you used please
Outstanding! We had a similar situation with one of the posts supporting the portico over our front door; decay at the dirt line and cement about 14 inches below ground level. I had already figured out how I was going to do the repair, and then I found this video that just confirmed it was going to be a good fix. I added the extra precaution of soaking the post end in Tenino Copper Naphthenate before I attached the post base.
I wish that I was able to see the support jack process. Also you never showed where the support connected to.
Love it - thanks - need to do the same thing to a shed at a property I’ve just bought.
I have the same issue only with a round creasole pole on one end of my carport. Think this is the way I am gonna go.
You concrete is way to small. Quick rule of thumb is 3 x post diameter. So a 6x6 needs a 18 inch concrete foot(roughly). My local code is the post width is how much concrete needs to be on all sides. So a 6x6 is just over 8 inches at its widest point so I would need 8 inches out from each corner to outside edge of the sonotube.We use 24 inch sonotubes fpr a 6x6 post to meet code. Also the footing needs to be below your frost line which is 36" in my state.
How deep does the concrete footing need to be, I’m in the south, rare do we get be.ow 32 for longer than a couple of days.
Hellcat, is that dimension you state based on the post being buried in the concrete like back in the day (think so). These days the posts are pretty much required to sit on top of the concrete post. In the IRC code the base (footer) that sits down in the hole below the frost line is wide like you state and then it shows a concrete tube sitting on top of that footer and the deck post attached and sitting on top of the concrete. The concrete tube is 12" wide or smaller in the photo and not 24" wide as you state.
How did you mate the new concrete to the top of the pile / old concrete in the ground? Drill holes and rebar? Clean / use a slurry? Or just set the form tube on top and pour?
I just set the tube right on top of the existing buried post.
@@tomthomas7154 Is that safe?
how deep do i have to dig for a sonet tube to support a 6x6, a couple feet?
Two feet is good. My problems was to ensure leaving enough of tube above ground to reduce exposure to carpenter ants and moisture for rot where I put post on top..
Below frost level plus for those sono tubes and above ground 6" or so.