5 ways to prevent post rot.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2019
- Post rot can be delayed or even prevented. This video shows 5 proven ways that you can extend the life of post frame structures and fence posts from rot greatly extending their life.Be a part of this community by sharing a video.
Shoot me an email: countrycraziness@gmail.com for instructions on how to send your video.
Some topic suggestions:
How you make money in the country.
A project that you have done. Barn, fence, well etc..
Animals you own, care and challenges
Tour of your property
Cost to build…….
Shows us your tractor and implements
If you don’t live in the country yet what are the challenges holding you back.
Your story is interesting to others that share your interest!
=======
Affiliate Links of the products we use:
Pat's Easy Change Quick Hitch System.
amzn.to/3aK80Aa
=======
AirTec Lube-Shuttle Pistol Grip Grease Gun Kit
amzn.to/3vuJNrb
========
Hisea Men's Rain Boots Waterproof Durable Insulated Rubber Neoprene Outdoor Muck Hunting Boots. amzn.to/3AQnnBw
=======
Schumacher SC1319 1.5 Amp 6V/12V Fully Automatic Smart Battery Charger/Maintainer
amzn.to/3FUw2qf
=======
Dorfman Pacific Co. Men's Dimensional Brim Boonie
amzn.to/3DOFnxV
=======
Bugsplatter N All 4oz. Concentrate Makes 2 Quarts. Multi-Surface Vehicle Cleaner / Bug Splatter and Black Streak Remover.
amzn.to/3aK3n8Y
=======
Flexible Replacement Gas Spout
amzn.to/3FQVz3S
=======
-----------------
#countrycraziness
#polebarn
#polebarns
#polebuildings
#polebuilding
#postframeconstruction
#postframehouse
#postframe - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
When you give a video a thumbs up it helps promote the video AND it tells TH-cam you like the subject and they will send you similar content. Thanks for watching!
its crazy how 42,000 people can watch the video, gather the information, and then not even like or dislike, or even comment. SMH.
Only one issue all these methods are great, but like the original guy you discussed in the beginning yes he already has a standing barn, the question is how do you prevent an already standing barn from post rot??
I grew up with pole barns in Texas but when I was in Idaho I was shocked as how they build the roof on the ground then winch it up the posts. When I tried to find a metal building contractor none of them knew what "red iron" was. Your channel is doing well, hope mine does this well as I show how to build a Modern Cabin by myself. Nice work
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please.
Great information, thanks.
Great video, I love all the options.
That intro was the best lol
I had forgotten that.
Besides all the other methods in comments I read where old timers drill a hole a few inches above ground level at a downward angle half way into the post. It’s this hole they pour turpentine and lindseed oil into it and plug the hole every few months.
Thanks. Going to replace a gas grill post and this has given me some ideas. Some in the comments.
I've got the BEST method . Soak the wood with antifreeze prior to install. Allow the post to dry well and then put a topcoat of diesel mixed with asphalt roofing tar 50/50. This mix will seal the antifreeze in the wood. Additionally, holes could be drilled in the wood and a tube connected with a bottle of antifreeze would allow the antifreeze to penetrate the middle of the wood post. This is also a good retro treatment for posts already installed. Dave Carnell is a chemical engineer who researched the antifreeze treatment. Note. Antifreeze is toxic and will leach out of the wood unless topcoated. The problem with plastic wraps is that water enters the top of the post and seeps down through the wood and is trapped by the plastic wrapping the part of the post in the ground.
doesn't matter if the wood gets wet at the bottom because there is no oxygen for fungi to survive. only the air/soil intereface where there is oxygen is important.
You are 100% right
solid video
Up here in wet rainy Oregon, some of us use Pea Gravel for the post. It
helps a few ways, like if the post moves even a fraction in the wind the
gravel sinks and tightens the post continually never letting the post
get loose. (Just keep the pea gravel capped off). Also, the water has a
drain away from the post ground level so the water rot in that spot is
no longer a problem. Another way it helps is that there is no concrete
mixing! Many up here think it's faster and better.
Paul ..have you ever heard the phrase when the student is ready the teacher will appear.
Well sir that is what I experienced when I found this video this morning.
As I'm getting ready to build I'm 48 and was researching post protection.
It was like you were directly talking to me.
Thank you sir.
Glad I could help. Thanks for checking out the channel.
I always wrap my Fence Post with Hefty Plastic Bags works like a dream
Had 28 PT 6x6 posts 3 feet in the ground for 17 years now with gravel underneath them and dirt against them in high humidity, termite central---and NO problems. Have a small cabin sitting on sections of tree trunk at 10,000 feet elevation for 9 years with NO sign of rot and there ain't no termites at 10K. Both building sites are well drained with plenty of roof overhang. And, install them right and they aren't that difficult to replace if a problem arises.
Architect Walter Segal helped self-builders of timber frame houses in the 1970's - 1980's. Those houses had the posts on pads on top of the ground. The pads were on top gravel filled holes. I believe this is the best proven method for avoiding rot.
Method requires timber "Saint Andrews Cross" in the building to meet engineering standards.
Backfilling around posts with asphalt milling instant compaction keeps bugs out
Thank you so much for your great video! How much are the wet set brackets? Where can I get them? Thank you sir and God bless you
Check out the Permacolumn website for a directory of retailers near you. Thanks for watching. Would love to share pics and videos of your project.
thanks for the info.I'm just like the old man getting ready to retire. I have a 24x36 barn.I wish they would have used sleeves back in 1974. I guess I will replace one pole at a time til I get it done.I think I will just dig down along the rotted post and set a new post along it and bolt them together.Damn thing has vinyl siding on it and i don't want to mess it up but I will if I have to.Any Ideas?
Tim,
Check out this link. strongwaysystems.com/
Just demod a 30 year old deck. I knocked the concrete off the post and the wood was solid.
How do you get the plastic on the posts?
I'm about to build a pole barn 2 car garage.
I've seen you video. Good job!
Oh heat shrink. Clean fit? Is that a premade sleeve?
https:www.planetsaverind.com
There product can be bought complete or you can buy just the wrap and shrink yourself
Can you tell me the brand of polyethylene wrap that was used after the bituminous coating on the post? Thanks
Here is the website
https:www.planetsaverind.com
Starting my build january of 2022. I was thinking of going with an asphalt fence post paint that covers 18” abov and below the grade line. From my research, anything below that doesn’t rot due to lack of oxygen. I don’t plan on doing a complete seal on the bottom of the post to avoid trapping any water in the post that then can’t leak out. I’m planning on doing my bottom row of girt boards in the paint as well to try and keep them from rotating due to the concrete and ground being right up against them. Guess we will have to wait 20+ years to see if this works. Lol
I’m wrapping mine in plastic.
Or 10 mill vapor barrier attached with stainless steel staples
I will be setting a 6x6x20' post for a security light and was thinking of coating the bottom (vulnerable area) with penetrating epoxy, any thoughts on this?
I haven't read anything about that option. Why are you thinking about that method?
@@CountryCraziness I thought it seemed like the best way to seal the wood from any moisture penetrating.
Whats about flex seal
That's great. I just talked to a guy building a pole garage. He has only treated wood set in crushed rock. That's not good for my residential property cuz I have water seepage down to basement. So that would bring on POLE ROT big time.
When it rains or snow melts we have wet basements.
Would Perma colum be the best?
Thanks for your video.
It's a great choice
Does one order the poles dipped in plastic?
If rot is a problem then why not build a form, get some rebar and pour a Portland cement post. A central NY, USA slab contractor built a whole concrete rail fence around the homestead that was maintainence free for years and the horses never bothered it.
Can I put black tar on my underground 6x6 on ends and all sides
Do it for 16" above ground too
What about dipping or paint the ends with creosote?
I never see that set forth as an option and wonder if it is for environmental reasons?
Banned for amateur use
Didn't seem to help PT 4x4's for me. Mine rotted after 20 years
It doesn’t cost very much at all to replace posts
which is strongest?
I would say the bracket with rebar in wet concrete
Anyone who has a post imbedded that failed in 20+ or so years should first suspect they didn't actually get CCA treated posts with sufficient penetration to meet code. I have seen treated posts that didn't last and treated posts that did. The difference is in the quality of the product, or to put it another way; too many post frame buildings have been put up with substandard treatment.
How can you tell good from bad?
@@CountryCraziness Thanks for asking and thanks for your article/video. As you can tell, I am biased toward embedded posts, although I am wishing to improve on a good thing. As a carpenter I have built one building using heavy brackets like your methods 4 & 5; and there is no comparison to the resistance we can feel as we climb around on the superstructure (and that is even after we added extra bracing on the bracket mounted posts and walls). I could write an essay but the central point is: The International Building Code approves it when their AWPA Standards are met (maybe read about it at AWPA.com and their sliding scale of 12 progressively more challenging environments). I would never build a home with a wood foundation, but believe it or not; that is approved too ( maybe read: ichomeinspection.com "Wood Foundation, A Disaster Waiting To Happened?")
To dumb this down to my level: Our supplier sends green posts with a AWPA sticker for in-ground use, and brown approved for ground contact. I enjoy telling experiences with both, but suffice it to say; the differences are dramatic.
I am wary of the methods that wrap the post because if it fails, and if it leaks water in, it therefore traps moisture making rot accelerate. Yet if the workmanship is good, those methods have merit especially if done to a treated post ( I don't think they use treated). The other ways connect the the post above ground; sacrificing one of the great strengths of post frame (yes it is arguable). The most essential factor is having a well drained job site. Sub-water may not heave the foundation, but it can harm the slab, and continuous foundations do not dam the water out.
Last thing: the first method with notches to resist uplift ( and other methods I have seen) are just silly. Sorry to be so blunt, because I recognize that wind resistance is an underappreciated engineering factor; but the building NEVER gets lifted straight up. The best description I have heard it that wind tries to roll the building which in effect tries to bend the post or pry it out at some angle other than up. Which brings me back to the strength of an embedded post. I have heard of some terrible disasters on partially framed buildings without adequate temporary bracing - even some post framed ones. Conversely I have seen embedded post frame buildings (partially framed) withstand horrendous wind events with no failure. If able to resist before complete - how much better after fully built?
Oh, by-the-way, if you still have an overwhelming urge to bracket the post down; why not embed the post in a large concrete pier? - then also bracket it down. If I am wrong and the posts rot in 20 - 30 years - you are only back to as strong as the other methods ever were.
@@kellyinfanger9192 Hi, I have come to the same conclusion about substandard post treatment. In addition, some people think all treated wood is the same, and have poor results with wood placed underground that is not treated for below ground use. In 1994 my dad and I built a tractor shed using 6x6 posts that extend into the ground well below the frost line in Missouri. We compacted about 8 inches of gravel below and around each side for drainage. We were in a hurry, so we didn't pour concrete footings in the bottom of the holes, also the building was fairly light compared to a large shed or barn. Fortunately, it shows no sign of settling. Anyway, the building has withstood several tornados. One was close enough to uproot or twist off trees 100 yards away. Scary stuff! I agree, buildings don't get lifted straight up by high wind, they seem to get racked to the side and pushed up. Just like you described. I have dug 10 inches down around several of the posts, and they are as sound as the first day. I agree with your thoughts about cutting notches in the sides of posts to resist "up lift". We try not to cut or drill any holes in the area of wood that is placed below ground. I am not sure if the pressure treating drives the preventative throughout the wood. If it doesn't, then untreated wood where it was cut, would be exposed to insects and fungus. We have come along way since the days when I was a kid and we used creosote. I wish I could get some! Ha ha. I do remember how that stuff burned raw skin though. Thanks, for the info.
Note* I notice that I left out the word treated in the description of the 6x6 posts for the tractor shed. Most untreated posts would not have lasted this long. However, we have a shed that was built in the 1950's that has hedge and walnut posts. They show very little signs of insect damage or rot. That info could start a whole new conversation.
And what a great smell.
time stamp 1:54 ... or just wrap it in duct tape and call it good
Yup, its all over for that guy. I bet his wife and kids don’t even talk to him anymore. His birthday was probably taken away due to the fact of the rotted posts. Poor guy. 🤣
I've seen weed eaters do just as bad over time.
why not just get 6x6 steel square tube with 1/4" wall and get it hot dip galvanized and embed that into the ground 4 feet then stick post into the square tube??? lot cheaper than simpson strong tie moment base connectors.
Here is more information on the science of post rot. Whatever method is used it must cover this critical area. Shrink wrap products are inexpensive and easy to install.
https:www.planetsaverind.com
Yup, its all over for that guy. I bet his wife and kids don’t even talk to him anymore. His birthday was probably taken away due to the fact of the rotted posts. Poor guy. 🤣