How to Replace a Deck Post | This Old House
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Shoring up an old deck with new supports with This Old House general contractor Tom Silva. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom Silva and Kevin O'Connor replaced several wooden 4x4 posts that were supporting an exterior deck. The posts, which were not pressure-treated, sat directly on top of concrete piers. They had completely rotted at the bottom due to moisture wicking up through the concrete. Before removing the old posts, Tom & Kevin installed temporary bracing using 2x4's and a sledge hammer. With the deck temporarily supported, they removed the old posts and installed new pressure-treated ones. They also installed a galvanized steel post base at the bottom of each post, eliminating direct contact with the concrete piers.
Shopping List for for Replacing a Deck Post:
- 2x4s, for making temporary posts
- pressure-treated 4x4s, used as posts
- pressure-treated 2x4s, to make diagonal braces
- metal post base and expansion anchor, used to secure the post to the pier
- 3-inch decking screws, used to attach diagonal bracing
Tools for Replacing a Deck Post:
- hammer
- reciprocating saw
- pry bar, for pulling nails
- hammer drill fitted with 1/2-inch-diameter masonry bit, used to bore anchor holes in concrete piers
- impact wrench, for tightening expansion anchors
- miter saw
- small sledgehammer
- impact driver
Resources:
Pressure-treated 4x4 posts are available in home centers and professional lumberyards.
The galvanized steel post bases were manufactured by Simpson Strong-Tie [www.strongtie....].
The wedge-type concrete anchors were manufactured by RED HEAD Anchoring Systems [www.itwredhead....].
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How to Replace a Deck Post | This Old House
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I love TH-cam for reasons like this. Thanks for passing this kind of knowledge down through the generations!
I️ can’t thank this organization “This Old House” enough. This channel has influenced my career path!
I watched since I was 12 and people thought I was a weird kid. Building is just fun. And when you know how to do it properly, it is also a skill for life.
You’re now a professional video watcher?
Just kidding. I love the service these guys have provided too. I’m not in this industry but I’ve taken on home projects I’d never have dreamt of doing myself
Love Tom. He's the real deal.
Lotta faith in those 2x4s lol
Tommy Silva You Do Great Work Buddy...
Like to see Kevin finally working after soooo many years of watching. Thanks for showing us how it's done and done correctly!
Kevin is the host. It's his job to narrate
I always come to this channel when I’m face to face with a new project. Always seems to help.
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Thanks, this video is very helpful!
I do wish they would have shown how to do the diagonal bracing on the middle post, because the way they were replacing them on the side like that, you wouldn't have room for two diagonals going in different directions. Unless they were at different heights...
Those guys are really good at there work, great job 👍
They fixed the hell out of that deck
I’d be nervous to drive a screw while Tommy’s intently watching lol
Awesome stuff. Any idea what something like this would cost if you had it done by a contractor? I'm looking to do something similar with my deck. Would also want to add cement bases like theyve got here too.
Kevin is getting fairly handy with the odd tools
iShootBandits he’s an odd one so it makes sense
At least they caught it before it was beyond repair and had to be taken down.
wish you guys were up in the hudson valley to help me fix my porch!
Man, I wish I knew, what tommy know’s.....such a good handyman
Tommy Silva is no "handyman" He is a master general contractor who is known and respected for his skill world-wide. He first appeared on This Old House in 1987.
Suggest use stainless steel wedge anchors to avoid rust.
Very nice job
Outstanding
I have a question on the side of your deck, that you have a big sheet of it on the side of your deck. Sorry, I don't know what it is called. I had an animal brake my. My husband and I don't know how to fix it. We have ideas, nut sure. Ty if I hear from you
Thanks 👍
I'm not a builder but when he used 2- 2x4's to hold up a deck that was being held up by 3 4x4's, that seemed alittle shakey.
It's fine, just a deck, not that much weight bearing to suspend.
Yeah I would have definitely used 2=4x4's instead.
Keep in mind that the deck's original supports of three 4x4s was designed to hold up a deck with people on it, walking around, maybe jumping, dancing, etc, whereas his 2x4s only needed to hold an empty deck with a static load.
He said he liked using the 2x4s on the sides instead of the middle because it gave him more surface to screw to, to add the brace. I would have done both 2x4 braces on the sides and 4x4s in between the 2x4s as 1 would be on the outside and 1 on the inside so the 4x4 would be in between the 2 and they could all be screwed together. That's the way I will brace my pergolas, and there is ZERO weight on the roof of the pergola and their could be how many 150ib - 300ib people on that deck? So yeah both wouldn't hurt.
just two 2x4s? No way, I’d do four, two on each side if using 2x4. That’s a long span and they will easily bend.
Good Video thank you.
Rockin some Stiletto Titanium hammers
What if the beam wasn't straight (if it was sagging below the 16" measurement)? I wish they could have discussed that possibility. I have a deck that sits only 18" off the ground that is sagging in a corner because of a rotted post.
Then you would cut the post a little longer, so that way it can jack up the center to 16 inches. In reality though, they should've used a level to make sure the posts were level and the deck didnt move!
7 q.
@@dantehall5239 Correct. Use the straight line to figure out how much the Rim Joist is bowed by and cut the beam by that much extra. Then pound it in. You may need to brace the center of the deck up more to get that center post in if the deck is bower quite a bit.
Was it possible to retread the pole
Great vidio thanks!......just be careful of the hammer marks with that mash hammer....
Would this be the same process for posts that are buried under the ground? I want to apply the cement method for my deck but not sure how to pull the existing post from under the ground.
I would guess you would have to dig them out. If they are incased in cement you would have to use a shovel and dig around them and pull them out. Cut the post to make them more manageable then dig around them and if you have a come along winch it would make pulling the base out the ground a lot easier. If the base of the post sticking out of the ground is not rotten then either wrap it with the winch and pull, drill a hole add a bolt and connect it to the winch and pull, or dig around the base in the ground wrap the base in the ground with the winch and pull would be my best guesses. That's how I would do it.
Do this: th-cam.com/video/7rO3bWaQLCo/w-d-xo.html
Why isn't that wedge anchor not hot dipped galvanized? Is that zinc plated anchor good enough for outdoor applications?
life saving video, and a slip at 2:40
Where? I'm looking and don't see it. I'm also on my phone, so small screen
35 years ago! I installed 4x4 fence posts. I put up stockade fencing, I replaced the fencing twice over the years. When I originally installed the 4x4's I did not use concrete. Because of the costly experience, I had in a previous home where the posts heaved in 1 year, not to mention that the wood rotted quickly (Good treated ground contact 4x4s). Well 35 years, I only replaced 2 posts the rest did not rot! My neighbor hired a contractor 6 years ago to install their fence. I told the contractor when he was using concrete that the fence would fail. He and his crew looked at me like I was nuts, laughed at me and told me that whatever the big box store recommends is how things are built. Well, the fence failed! The problem is the concrete, don't use it to support anything you are going to build on top. Use wood posts as deep as you can get them, wrap near the top with styrofoam. Mistakes are costly, and concrete is a big one.
Did they designed Fix It Felix based off of Tom?
Why am I watching this? I don't even have a deck. *Cries in poor*
Why does the limited sheer strength of a screw not matter with the way they did the diagonal brace.
In my jurisdiction, the diagonal brace would have to be (or, is commonly--not sure of the code reference) through-bolted or lag screwed. But, I'm in CA--there are earthquake considerations that probably don't apply to this project.
I would run bolts through the brace and post instead of screws. MUCH stronger and longer lasting. Or you could even brace them with a metal fastener for even more strength.
how are those braces sturdy enough? the screws are the things holding the weight of the deck, not the actual wood beam thats there for that. its only putting pressure on the screws
The screws are not holding the weight of the deck. The cross bracing is to help limit the racking caused by external forces. The screws will get loose over time as he deck moves. The point is to help it limp along for another 10 years or so.
well, you can always go for mortise and tenon joint for your knee braces, if you can manage it.
My thought also. I would prefer thick galvanized bolts.
@@jima4286 yep for beams, braces, and such, screw to hold in place and use a big plate and galvanized nuts and bolts. I would have used 4x4s on both sides to brace and a 4x4 in between to brace and screwed them all together and used bolts.
I feel like this was a commercial during the original airing of the Dukes of Hazard. Anyone else?
A small correction for Tommy which is not really all that big a deal BUT in the spirit of getting things right, from the start... here goes. Tommy was using a masonry bit to drill into the existing concrete base for the deck posts. Tommy called it a "masonary" bit. The correct word is "masonry"!
He's probably been using that word his whole professional life so I won't push the issue but for those who don't know, I wanted to point that out.
The fact is, I've learned tons of stuff watching Tommy through the years. He's a true Master of the building trade AND he's a great communicator!
Why no cross bracing from the center post?
They added bracing to corners which make deck laterally stiff enough, so there was no need for braces in center post.
Not sure but on the braces isn't the crown of the wood suppose to be placed facing down In Order to not let wood curl up or does it matter.
On a horizontal, the crown up, the rings angled down. Vertical doesn’t matter. Just spread the screws out not too close together.
MY COTTAGE NEXT PLEASE
That little impact would drive me nuts! 5 minutes of that gawdawfulnoise every screw!
24fps No other method will be able to drive such a long screw straight through such beams without predrilling. Just put some silencing headphones on.
24fps if you do t like ffee impact you can use an 18 or 20 v drill, buti guarantee you Betsy have a couple of batteries and some Advil for your arms because after you are through your arms are going to be tired from holding that drill all day . only then will you say never again will I dio that and you will appreciate that nose from the impact . how do I know this been there done that when I didn't have my impact to drive some long screws like Tommy was doing .
Not sure about the diagonal braces
I thought bracing is supposed to be in between so you arnt relying on the shear strength of the screws. Don't think this would pass code here
ideally, you want to make mortise and tenon joint for your knee braces, if you can manage it.
Yeah I would have definitely used 4x4's in between rather than 2x4's in between or on the outside just screwed or nailed on which would definitely give over time.
@@Vulcan5911 that's what I was thinking, 4x4s on the outside and 4x4 in between and they are all screwed together is the way I would do it. That way you know if you have a dozen 200ib people on that deck it ain't going nowhere.
I don't know if this is current code (2019 CBC), but diagonal post/beam bracing can be on the "outer surfaces" if it is bolted or lag-screwed (California). Also, 2x material is okay for bracing in CA. This is for decks attached to the house--probably different for an "independent"/free-standing deck.
What can’t this man due
He shoed the deck up, took weight off support posts, measured for new posts, He didn’t check the slope, my opinion it’s sloping towards the house.
3:34 , wow that middle beam is not level lol.
that new post measurement 51 3/4 was taken while deck was propped up, no? therefore deck wasn't in its proper final setting.
jk08 lop kohl
This show is a joke
jk08p
well, use a laser level, bring the deck to correct height using bottle jack, and determine the correct height, and take measurement.
ideally.
@Anything under the sun depending on the type of decking. if it's water tight, you need slope. If water can drain between planking, you don't need slope.
What brand and model# is the drill that's making the hole for the anchor?
P L sad that nobody has replied yet
Looks like a Makita. No idea about model numbers, but there's plenty of info on their site. TH-cam or Amazon is a good place for reviews, though.
its a hammer drill, hammer drills are best for drilling into masonry, the one featured is a commercial unit, Bosch makes decent models as well as dewalt, Walmart even carries a fairly good quality smaller size hammer drill for hanging things into masonry.
however when dealing with a larger drill like that ensure it has a safety clutch (tied to the handle pressure) and you are using it right, they can be dangerous.
could´ve been a bosch
just search for SDS Plus hammer drills.
Makita and Bosch are good makers. but others are also pretty good.
if you are a weekend warrior, get battery powered one.
Oh Tom stop using impacts on masonry anchors!
Did the socket even make 2 revolutions?
I wish this guy was my dad
There is nothing in this world that would ever make that post "Rise up." Class dismissed.
Wind?
@@mae2759 -I'm afraid that any wind that lifts those deck posts will also take the entire house with it...
posts rise up all the time in new england because of water freezing under the post. erosion can cause little gaps between the bottom of the cement post and the dirt. eventually water can collect in those little air pockets and freeze. The freezing and expansion of water underneath the posts causes posts to lift a little. When the ice underneath the post melts away it creates an even bigger gap. Repeat year after year the post can lift and get all wonky if there isn't enough downward pressure.
Thanks for shoving yet another ad down my throat!
3:33 Who else dramatized a collapse scene? "Guh gerzh! Pkkkk!"
a whole week of preparation over a dozen pp involved in filming, experienced builders hours of editing just to make a 4 minute shoot ...easy job
Lol kevins drill looks like its the 12v dewalt lmao
Took forever to drive the screw
Actually the new dewalt 12volt brushless Extreme would work just fine for that. Great little new 12volt that just came out.
@@Vulcan5911 Man I LOVE my Dewalt 20v XR impact drill. LOVE IT! It makes predrilling a thing of the past. I will NEVER by another non-impact drill again.
Came here to read about what everyone thinks tommy did wrong lol
The replacement posts look like 4”x4” posts. I would have used 6”x6” posts are stronger.
I would go with 12" x 12" tube steel with 1/2" wall because that is even stronger.
You are right, a 6x6 is stronger than a 4x4. but a 4x4 is plenty strong for a deck this size. A 4x4 post will handle almost 10,000 pounds.
@@ammerconsulting I believe I was told that 4x4 are no longer to code in this application. But, that could be for taller decks or only in some regions.
There have been tall deck collapses with fatalities that were under engineered.
I like 6x6 min.
@@Colorado-Tinkering If I remember correctly, a 4x4 can only be used if it is under 8 ft. or it has to be braced. When they get too tall, they buckle and fail.
It''s all about your states code. My state allows 4x4 posts is the post is under 8'. You could always go 6x6 if you want though
How to repair a rooted post
Old bolt could of been fixed with a Deburring Tool Bit, Hex Rethreading Die, and some Rustoleum.
well, but the galvanic plating is gone, it will rust in no time.
@David Jacobs, that’s why you should use a galvanized fence post bracket.
Sounds like a lot more work when you can just cut it off and insert a new one.
Its about a $3500 job
Not using pressure treated wood? Those galvanized nails won't like pt wood if it is pressure treated.
Hot dipped galvanized fasteners that have a designation of G-185 or higher works well with pressure treated lumber.
It was 13/16"
Did you get a permit for this job?
I wonder if the original deck had a permit.
In most cases, a permit is not required for a repair unless you are altering the structure in some way.
I wish my brain worked this way...
I’m an export of 3 years and I would’ve torn the whole thing down and redid the deck
I can't believe I heard tommy say masonary, when the word is masonry.
3:25 No.
There are better ways
0:25 made me cringe
Amators