STRAIGHTEN wonky walls with BondingCoat Plaster | 4 simple steps
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IN THIS VIDEO
LEARN HOW TO STRAIGHTEN A WALL WITH BACK COAT PLASTERS SUCH AS BONDING, HARDWALL AND SAND & CEMENT IN 4 SIMPLE STEPS!
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Here in Latin America during phase 1 (prep day) and depending on how big the wall is, master plasters make 2 guiders with plaster (around 2 inches wide) and use a level on both of them, making sure is perfectly straight from top to bottom. Next day when they plaster the whole wall, the aluminum scratches perfectly using the dried plaster from previous day as base guiders. Works great
Respect there mate as a Plasterer for 40 years bathrooms are the worst jobs of all I’d say, no room to swing a cat, bathroom installers and tilers all think you can plaster them in a few hours and work you do doesn’t get seen at the end of the job as it’s all behind the tiles, well done good vid 👍🏻
i know, us Tilers get most of the praise on completion, but i always appreciate the chaps who prep the room , it's the most important of the process, except maube the Plumber, LOL
Plasterers prepping walls for Tile. Never heard of it in California. Old tilers took care of prepping their own walls. The Building Code allows up to a 1/4 variation in 4-5 ft. Straight edge for exterior plastered walls. No good for tilers. However in UK or other countries it’s interesting that plasterers would do that prep and understand what’s necessary for tile work.
love your job mate
This is the best video yet, full of great info.
Thanks very informative video, appreciate your time filming and sharing knowledge.
Hi Kirk, as my brother who has taught me a lot about plastering. Since you’ve helped me become a better plasterer, as a bathroom specialist myself. I just thought I’d mention that you should have used Sand and Cement instead of the bonding and tiled straight onto that, this would have allowed you to put any tile onto the wall.. Whilst your method is also correct you are now limited to 20kg per sqm in tiles and adhesive and grout once you skim the walls this is again if tiling the walls meaning your safest bet is to use a ceramic wall tile and not porcelain as it would be too heavy. Regards Shiv. Hopefully this comment reaches you before you get to tiling. If you would like me to do it for you for free pls give me a message id be honoured to help you.
Also Kirk you will be ok regarding tile on plasterboard as it’s 32kg per kilo. It’s recommended to tank shower area also
I have watched your video in past and u was saying don't need scratch b4 skiming😊
That's correct mate
Really liked this one Kirk. When is the vid with screeds coming out? Can't wait!
We need an update on the bathroom progress please 😊
This is it... this is my bathroom mate 🙂
@@Onthetrowel Sorry didn’t realise 😂
Are you anywhere nearly finished. If your wife is anything like mine she hates any mess and would expect it all to be done in a day 😩
It took me 6 months to do the kitchen, nearly got divorced 😂😂
@davejohnwilliams1 me an you are very similar 😂
My wife is constantly on my case... the plastering always takes me forever to do because I hate doing it on my own house for free 😂😂😂
Anthor good video and top work mate 👌
Cheers Dan mate
as a tiler, whenever someone says 'we have a plasterer coming in first to get the walls ready' i always shudder, 90% of the walls i'm given are nice and shiny and are never flat enough to even stick small tiles on, let alone these massive 900mm tiles that are popular at the moment, well done mate on highlighting the right way to straighten up wonky walls .. :) cheers bud
That’s because the tight arse customers only want you to skim it they don’t want you dubbing out as it costs more and they all ways say its just for the tiles to go over
And you shouldn't tile onto skim neither
@@ksmith7611no mate you can. You can’t tile onto bonding or hard wall. You’re just limited to 20kg/sqm weight with plastered walls which is pointless is walls are boarded well, as the plasterboard holds 32kg/sqm before the skim!
@@muhammada5178 in 25 years of removing tiles i've found that tiles on bonding is better than skim, although removing them will take the bonding off the wall with it if sealed correctly, often back to the brickwork. but i agree that plasterboard is the best for large format & porcelain tiles , unfortunately Tile shops are selling tiles to the public that are unsuitable for average housebuilds in the U.K.
@@Lemon-squeezer this is why many customers either get a massive shock when theyre told the walls are unsuitable and require levelling again, or end up with a really crap tiling job. next time a customer says that to you, explain how important it is to get a nice finish from the tiler, it will save them alot of heartache in the end.
Most of the plastering I’ve seen in England would result in nonpayment in places like Poland or Germany. After plastering is done they come with massive 2m+ level, push it against the wall and shine bright light on one side. Building standard demands the wall to be flat across that distance.
We use rough plaster under coat that goes on the brickwork, only then actual plasterer comes in and does the final coat using finishing white plaster that’s NOT cement based. It’s softer allowing for the wall to be sanded down, then primed giving you the above mentioned flatness.
👍Sometimes i'd dab/level up 3" wide strips of plasterboard floor to ceiling in 1mtr bays, float up bays in no time using the strips as guide for straight edge then pop them out and fill in.
Worth the watch for the Carly advert alone 😅 some top acting, you sure you weren’t on Brookside back in the day?
Am a plumber , I like watching them , very informative 😊 I do a little plastering , but you have educated me so much.
Keep up the posts 😁👍
Well I won’t be devil floating and having to scrape down anymore cheers mate 👍🏻 been plastering 15 yrs 38 now 😅 always put a key in to be honest in the past
Fun mathematical fact: if you darby a surface horizontally and darby it vertically over and over again, until straight both ways, it doesn't mean it is flat. Rather it can be a "bilinear surface" - look that up. So checking at odd angles may be important.
Very true indeed. Same as an artex ceiling, flat but not remotely level
I believe both you and @NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot are wrong. If your straight edge is long enough to go wall to wall, ceiling to floor, then your surface might not be plumb but will be straight and possibly flat.
@@DMark-c3r I really do mean it as a mathematical fact. A bilinear surface has the horizontals and verticals as all perfectly straight lines, yet the diagonals are curved. So if you darby a surface to perfection both horizontally and vertically, you can still end up with a curved surface.
Not that this is necessarily a bad thing! If the four edges of the wall are not coplanar then the wall cannot be a plane. The curving may be imperceptible and practically necessary.
@@marklundeberg7006 I know you do. But just for a second try imagining a straight edge moving from the floor up to the ceiling without you ever seeing any gap between the edge and the plaster surface, and then do the same thing while moving it from left to right....and tell me what you see? Flat surface or you still see some curvature in the corners?
If you have problem imagining it, just put a piece of paper on the table and move a ruler across the paper, up and down, left to right...no gap, right? Now move the paper to the table edge and let it hang in one corner (to simulate your "curve") and move the ruler. When you pass over that "hanging" corner you will see a gap between paper and the ruler. That gap is not there when a whole piece of paper is flat on the table.
Great work kirk your a legend to the plastering game and such a nice down to earth genuine guy .😊
I have a question for you. I'm renovating an extremely old house that was built with brick and clay mortar. The joints were completely gone, it looked like the bricks where held up by air and sheer refusal to fall over alone. I've covered the walls with a metal mesh, then primed them with a watery sand-cement mix. I then put a vertical line of sand-cement on every meter or so which I leveled. (the was were significantly out of plum) Then filled up the space between with more sand-cement.
In the first room I did I then wen't over with gypsum finishing plaster, and that turned out to be a major mistake. I put on 2 coats with a fibreglass mesh stuck in between but the result is shit. It looks absolutely terrible. What can I do to fix this and get my walls nice and smooth and level?
Also, I''m puting on the sand-cement in the next room. What can I do to make sure I get it right the first time?
Thanks for your great content. I subbed immediately!
Plumb not level pls drives me bonkers.
They don't teach fu*k all these days, silly little 4-5 day college courses..worth shit.
Hey, there's always that trip to Italy! Otherwise, it's becoming a lost art in the NY metro area.
Tips after tips after tips and you can tell he really enjoys passing on his knowledge.
Nice work pal, I also prefer sand & cement
Regarding the Devil-Float? .... Your Dad is Right! ... Most! Plasterers think it's all about KEY! ... It's NOT! .... Thistle/Siraphite/Statite would ALWAYS stick to Sand & Cement Render whether 'keyed' or not! ... The purpose of the Devil-Float is primarily to get the surface 'Flat & Closed' ... Rather like using a 'Cross-Grain' as the No2 Float in a 3 x coat finish .... When you can lay a render wall on pretty flat anyway, you don't need a rule - Just a GOOD Devil-Float and it'll come out Perfect!! 👍🤠
As a retired wall and floor tiler great to see this. My apprenticeship was old school using sand and cement, knock off and render making sure of level and plumb. Sand and cement still great but also modern products too. Well done.😊
Whever ive used bonding its not grey?! Is this a different brand? Im a kitchen fitter so i always fill chases etc before my plasterer comes to save him time
Question, I've taken on a job today, what consists of dry rot , bad dry rot aswell..I've taken the plaster off back to brick , and have found the bricks are soaked and corroded.what sealer would you suggest to use in the bricks before I float it out? I'd usually use PVA but I'm not sure that suck into the brick work..cheers .
Funny I was thinking why bother with the skim coats if you are tiling it anyway, reading the comments some say that they won’t stick to bonding coat, can’t understand why as that tile adhesive sticks to most things 🤷♂️🤷♂️
So few plasterers in the game these days can do a proper job like this. Keep up the good work dude. Save us from dot and dab hell.
Kirk how far do you travel for a customer. Like your work and will need u in future for full house replaster. L40 postcode ( ormskirk/aughton ways is that to far?
Ive learnt loads from your videos and advice. Thank you. You have saved me a fortune. Thanks again.
Kirk you better have put a rip of plywood over that lintel where you dot & dabbed above that window?
Because us Carpenters get asked to put some curtain poles/rails up & you blimming plasterers have just dot & dabbed & there is nothing there to get a decent fixing to.
Now we got that bollocking out of the way, keep up the vids you do some great videos & very informative 😊
It’s really not hard to fix onto plasterboard. Wall dog screws go straight into board, or you can screw through into the brick
Good luck hanging curtain pole brackets on whirlie fixings into plaster board & there is no brickwork where the steel/lintel is.
I been a Carpenter & Joiner for 37yrs so more than the familiar with the nothing to fix to above the window nonsense.
We always do some solid blocking in steels where we think brackets might go but a solid rip of plywood/OSB just solves the problem completely & isn't hard to do at the time.
I'll straighten you out alright!... Anymore of your nonsense Kirk son.
Come back when you've had your wheetabix pal 😂
😂
@@Onthetrowel I've had 10 pints the day and few lines of the devils dandruff. To boost me ego. I'm ready now Kirk, meet on the AARD ROAD for a straightener . Last man standing.
Ah, ye shit yourself Kirk son! Didn't ya?
Can you let me know at what point i eat the pot noddle before i rule
Life of a spread, eat on the go
Was the best bit of the video I find hardwall gets me hungry.keep up the good work brother
Cheers mate
who ever wired that wants his arse kicking , no capping on the cable in the wall
I love using dirty water , it’s a risky game tho 🤣
👍888 to keeps the old man happy 😀🤣
He's bloody good
Party 2 ? Learning lots here ha ha.
Perfect kirk but your to young for old school lol good job mate
Big man why you work right to left being a righty?
Apparently you can learn how 2 do this in a 2 week course and you get passed of as being 1 and it boils my p@@s ha. I was a plasterer of 20 years iv had 2 give it up bcz of ware and tear on the body iv watched a few of your videos now and just wanna say your some plasterer mate always good 2 watch a good plasterer doing his trade that has took years 2 perfect 👌 must admit i do miss it a bit ha
Thank you mate, appreciate your nice comment 🙏
Cheers Kirk
You're the "Plaster Master" ❤
I love you're videos
Look forward to your next one
Take it easy
fantastic work as always dude.
to me plastering is a timed art & skill
What about right angles between adjacent walls (room geometry)?
Bricklayer
Well those wires are there for awhile...
My mates a plasterer, he earns £250 a day, his shoulders are knackered and every now and then his back goes, he works flat out Tuesday and Wednesday then gets on the gear 🤣🤣🤣👷♀️
Give me 2mins il be there in a minute lol😅
Great job love watching your skills
Hi kirk
You said sand and cement. On block brick. What would be your ideal ratio first second coat. If you where on the sand and cement route. What would you do pva or the tride and trusted. Cheers kirk. 🏴👍
4:1 / 5:1 and no need for any sealer also pop some waterproofer in the topcoat and it will make it nicer to skim.
Sound thanks 🏴🍻
This scraping nonsense and pva nonsense you do doesn't work, on most jobs as layers are not bonded together and come off with fingernails after a few years. Pva was good in the 80s when there was nothing else. Polymer or acrylic stays sticky for couple of hours and its not activated by moisture like latex. You cant make flat and vertical wall with 30cm towel 😂😂 and I haven't seen one ever after uk plasterers.
Awesome video
U make it look easy😘😳
Excellent work
obviously a skilled mason....but I cringed 3mins 37 sec/.....electric cable not in metal conduit being plastered over...
Did a massive wall yesterday
What is alarming me u are buring cable in the bounding/plaster. It is correct? In italy is forbidden since like 40 years ago. Btw really educational video on plastering
Which Darby are you using . Looking to get one but reviews in Screwfix and tool station are negative.
Doesn't need to be anything fancy, just look down it and make sure its straight.
The negative reviews will likely be from people that struggle to use them.
I'm sure mine is a "benson hand tools"
@@Onthetrowel cheers mate!
Hello Kirk, Is the second coat at 7:00 Bonding as well & how thick can it be put on without sagging? Also is checking for Level and Plumb done during or at the end of laying on the Bonding? Great videos 👍
Cheers, just ordered a Carly.
You can do all sorts with them, I've done a few little modifications to her car with it
Nice video thanks, but what next? If you cant skim it for a few days, presumably you're into sealing it (with SBR?). Then will multifinish key to it ok?
Just as well ya left the loo there... those pot noodles'll go right through ya !! 🙄😂
Whilst I really appreciate you demonstrating the process here, as a 66y.o. DIYer myself, restoring a 100y.o. farmers cottage, I prefer to do other work and leave this stuff to those who have the years of experience, playing to your strengths is important. I simply don't have time to build experience but I DO like to understand the process...been subbed a good while now too ! 😎👍
One job I did do here was to rout out the old lime mortar between the stone using a cordless drill & a 1/2" masonry bit to almost 6" depth ( doing sections at a time so it didn't collapse in on me !! 😮) and re-pointing every single sq. inch of the inside of the exterior wall surfaces... the old stuff was virtually just sand, spilling out... 🙄
No DPC in the floors so I put a layer of 25mm rigid insulation down followed by poly followed by 22mm flooring ply and laminate flooring on top (vinyl laminate in the kitchen /bathroom) I would have liked more floor insulation but was limited by the internal doorway heights...
Speaking of doorways, when re-pointing the walls over the doors, I found old tree branches used as lintels !! 😂 they crumbled when I just looked at them ! 😮... new concrete lintels were installed, heavy work on yer own .. 😤
I lowered every ceiling by a foot, dry-lined, plumbed and re-wired ... and filled it with rigid foil-backed insulation , 8" in the ceilings, 3" in the studded walls ( I built 3 x 2 studded internal walls stepped an inch away from the old stone external walls to allow for breathing up into the vented loft area) and 38mm insulated drywall over that for a 100% thermal break...
Thank you for your channel, its hard work, I'm sure... but it is appreciated !!
From the West of Ireland
😎👍☘️🍺
Just got our living rooms sand cement skim and it looked nice on the day until a day later when we realised that the plasterer didnt level any of the walls and looks soo wonky. It was never this wonky. Nearly £1.5 k down the bin.
Good one kirk . Is scratch coat cement ? If that was leveled can the tiles go straigh onto that , as i know tile cement is a really adhesive. If the wall is flat , could you not put tile cement on first ? As i was working with another experienced plasterer using tile cement on a painted block wall , then plastered over the tile cement . What do you recon about that Kirk
I only plaster at home every few years just replaced some heaters watching you I realise I'm a far too harsh Critic of my work. I get frustrated at how long it takes me to get a good finish. Cheers me up when AC installers and the original fitter said I can't see any sign of the Hole I made and was there a heater here. Still hate plastering.
Kirk, can you do some solid wall plastering. Particularly internal exterior walls like window walls and how to combat them.
Im facing an issue where i cant baton and foil back the board due to the style of window and unsure on rendering and skimming without stopping damp etc. Quite new to the game. It would be great to see.
Your content is great.
Elliot
Some years ago, I began learning three coat plaster in the wake of a disaster involving joint compound on old plaster walls. Entire first floor of a house and an orbital sander with a serious grit to reverse the mistake. It hurt. Finding no one in the NY metro area to at least give me pointers, I embarked on my own trial and error program-do I really have to say mostly error?! Recently, I decided to attempt a screeding concept using metal corner beads. Yeah, kinda pathetic. But how to achieve those elusive flat walls that I just could never get? Well, I own a feather board and a Darby, but I was uncertain just how to use either? This video has provided the next steps of my learning process that would have taken a lot more time without it. I really appreciate your instruction. Thank you so very much for your time and your effort.
100% graft this lads really hard and mentally harder than it is physically 😂 I'd sort it for a days wages £230 including materials.
Best plasterer on TH-cam
Thankyou
Great video, thanks for making something so useful. I'm literally doing the same job on a bathroom that looks exactly the same!
Bonding absolute brilliant for patching and levelling up walls ,the only drawback be careful where you use it ,great for drawing damp
Like the vid - good tips. I did like that in my bathroom. Actually, I have enjoyed it. Quite relaxing :)
As a bathroom fitter (not tiler!) if the whole wall is uneven I simply fix plaster board to the wall for tiling or a skim coat of plaster. Could this have been done in the bathroom in the video?
Just had a so called Plasterer in the rectify some wonky walls and. I'll send him this because his work is joke.
I can’t thank you enough for your tutorials. Trying to find the right kinds of plaster mix in the states is a challenge though
Great demonstration Kirk. You are a true skilled tradesman. However as its a bathroom I would have lined it out with insulated tile backer boards.
We are going to have to agree to disagree 👍 thank you for the reply’s
And that is how adults handle disagreement.
We both think we are right but we haven't fallen out, called names or tried to belittle the other.
Scott I believe you are a good man and a good tradesman. I appreciate your advice and although we don't agree it's been a pleasure talking on the matter.
I'm sure we will have more conversations in the future on perhaps things we do agree on or things that maybe we don't. Either way I look forward to having the interaction.
Have a great week mate a d thanks for supporting my channel 😃👍
that is something we both agree on too much hate when communicating online have a good week also
See that bonding is that just browning? Good vlog, thanks ATB
Layton .. is full of beans ah 😅😂
He's full of something mate 🤣
I would have put a thin coat of bonding over all that the straighten it with hardwall its alot to work woth than bonding i think personally 👍
Kirk
Am I colour blind or is that grey bonding coat??
exactly what I thought, unless it is a different type of bonding? I notice how he kept saying bonding coat lol
Grey & Pink bonding are essentially the same product but from different quarries
never new that, top work as always Kirk very well explained
Why is the bonding grey? Thought it should be pinkish?
Been watching your vids you havn t covered the plasterers radio yet 😂
good work, you are right about modern plasterers for example l rendered my mate's house on the outside he could not do it on his own he is a PLASTERER, but still he helped me and learnt a lot, keep up the good vids
I'm off to Denmark to do a friends bathroom for him (plumber) and he has breeze block walls which i know ill have to sort out so this video is very helpful. cheers Mate for the guide how to not have a tiling nightmare. I will of course be tanking sealing everything...
Hi kirk
Great work as always pal👏 just curious to know are you planning on insulating the exterior wall with a thermal boards?
I have recently seen diathonite being used and was very impressed with its thermal performance..
Just thinking it be right down your alley as it is a plaster 👍
I wasn't planning on it mate. To be honest the only tome I would be inclined to use insulation is if we didn't have a cavity.
I'll take a look at the boards you've mentioned though. Thanks mate. Have a lovely weekend
Excellent videos, outstanding work. 👍👍👍Thank you. U earned my subscription.
Awesome, thank you!
B&q open on sunday for plasterboard ! 😢
Great info for a avid DIY-er like myself thanks matey she’s gonna think I’m a legend when I mess the bathroom walls up 😂😂 but talk like I know what I’m doing 👍👊
Yeah but it will be a good story for the pub... joking aside.
Just take your time. It's hard to get it wrong if you seal the wall and scratchcoat it
Ive a 6ft x6 " derby always struggled with it and used a straight edge instead how big is yours i m thinking mines to big thoughts please Craig..🤔
You will get a better job with a bigger Derby. I'm using a 4ft in the video but only because I was working in a shoe box 🤣
When you showed that the walls had set at different speeds because of the dirty water, the wall with the shower fittings didn't have a key, but then the next day, it did. Why?
I let my apprentice have a go at floating up as he'd never done it
Hey Kirk....could you tole straight onto the bonding coat if flat? Cheers...
All the bags of adhesive say tile onto finish coat only
Great tutorial pal. Cheers from Dublin.
ya bois editing skills moved up another level
It's the vermiculite in the bonding which allows you to skim straight over it without a key
He shouldn’t even be using bonding in a bathroom
My mate Joe loves you kirk ❤️ just a little bit go in neat 😂
Tobacco flakes or biscuit crumbs……
when its time to skim those walls, I presume it still needs PVAing?
So if you skim it the same day then it's fine and you can get straight on with it. (This is the best way)
If you leave it for more that 6 hours then good chance it will need sealing again because it will start to dry out and the when you put plaster on the wall it will take the moisture from your plaster