Nice vid. It's also important to understand why the plaster has blown. If there's damp, that needs to be root caused and fixed. Unfortunately with many older stone built buildings with no DPC, there has been inappropriate use of cement and gypsum which seals moisture into the wall and causes the plaster to blow.
why is this so relaxing to watch ? I have a blown area but the substrate is smooth, they justed joint compound and it's just popping off years later....same area on both floors. It's not porous, so I think I need the PVA first. Get it done !
Very good Information, I live in the USA but have a house across the border to Mexico. Bought the house from my mother in law, 40 plus year old, home that was well built, from brick. But now, the paint from prior years is falling apart and cracking. Your videos are very educational and now I know what to do. Thanks A lot
Thank you matey! And yeah…I’m not a fan. He just slates everyone for views. It’s one tactic for views on TH-cam but not one I’m a fan of. Thanks for watching my friend, all the best 👍
Thanks very much for posting these useful videos, quick question please, if the crack is getting to the breeze blocks, would you use bonding or hardwall or something else once an engineer cleared it from structural damage ? Many thanks and Merry Christmas
Damn, I did not know not to PVA hard brick 😢. I literally covered a 2.4m x 4m wall in PVA before applying a bonding coat. After hearing your explanation about the brick suction keeping hold of the bonding coat, I now see the error of my ways 👍
Actually you were fine. The Bonding is intended to stick to low suction backgrounds such as concrete and engineering bricks so sealing something that has suction with pva before bonding is not a problem. Blane said that 'Hardwall' backing plaster relies on suction so that is the one you don't PVA. Just let the brick suck it in.
Hi mate , I’m wondering if you can help me out.. I was fixing a wall around the fireplace where existing plaster was all cracked due to the heating over the years.. I’ve removed the loose and cracked plaster.. I placed the metal mesh on the bricks and then bonding and plaster however after few months the wall cracked again due to the temperature. Is there any solution to it?
I have a blown plaster hole back to block. I've already PVA the block, is that going to be a problem? What can i do if it is? Thanks great vid wish i watched it beforehand 😂
Can this be used on 100+ year old house? Removed blown plaster but it's the old stuff with horse hair (I think). Or do you have to use lime plaster for flexibility on old bricks?
I need to deep fill a few bare block areas and even as a complete DIT platering novice, I didn't think bonding plaster or even mortar was the answer, so naturally I turned to Blaine. Hardwall it is.
I keep hearing the term 'tight coat', can you clarify what this is please? Is it putting the 2nd layer on before the first layer has set enough in a normal scenario? I initially understood it to be putting a second coat on with the same mix as the first?
A tight coat means a thinly spread coat of plaster/bonding. For areas that aren't deep and don't need filling out alot, they only need a tight coat. Hope this helps
In Ireland we always x up the original coat of hardwall with a Stanley knife before pva for reskim to give new coat a key as well as the pva Iv noticed you lads don’t bother can I ask why that is ?
What do you use if there's efflorescence on internal upstairs brickwork? I want to try my hand at plastering but all the damp proofing I can find seems like it wouldn't give a good key for suction with thistle hardwall.
Surprised at not PVAing on brick, instead using water. Working on a small project at home with exposed old bricks. Just applied PVA a couple of hours ago!
I've been out to a couple of jobs where walls and ceilings with bonding coat under skimcoat has come off the wall, usually a painted wall underneath. Would PVA really make much difference to getting the bonding coat to adhere ?
I use Murexin Supergrund D4, it's an effing monster, makes loose or porous substrate much, much firmer. The surface feels a bit like sandpaper after it dries.
Hi Blaine can you use hardwall and bonding on the same wall but for different backgrounds? I have a wall that is brick but with a studded and plasterboarded area that used to be a doorway, would I just scrim over the joins between the hardwall and bonding? Cheers
You need to let the bonding go off further & the bubbles shouldn't appear.Likewise if you apply your 2nd coat of finish to quickly the same thing will happen.
what causes the plaster to blow, there has been times when i put my second coat on i can get a bubble (blown ) patch.. ps im just learning on a old council house ,im using it as a workshop so im lucky on that point..
Its a mixture of things. Age of the original plaster, bad application of new plaster (usually lack of hydration at the beginning leading to the plaster failing), not enough of a key...there's loads of reasons matey. It's quite hard to pin point!
@@PlasteringForBeginners thanks for replying ,i often can get a bubble appear on my second coat maybe i am leaving it to long before i apply the second coat .only trial and error i will figure it out,
hello do you have a link where i can get that mess , i have a job almost the same coming up , im not a plaster just a dad helping out his kids but i have no idea where to get the mesh ,.
I have exact same issue with my 1960s sand and cement rendered walls. Paint is same awful colour as well. Just like outside walls, this layer will move differently to the underlying masonry wall, as will the thin plaster skim above. After 60 years of thermal changes it cracks - that's my theory anyway!
I'd ask the building supplies company what they recommend. I had spalling concrete in a ceiling and they told me what to use there and it was different than what i needed in teh hall way (Window was leaking and concrete skim coat was just crumbling).
I've just had this on every wall on a garage extension that was done badly 20 years ago, the inner skin was thermalite, and it looked like they didn't wet down the blocks, and their mortar mix was way to strong so it just sucked all the moisture out of the mix, you could literally wobble the blocks, I had to hack 75% off and bed mesh in on a tight coat of bonding. Over the last 20 years the jobs have just been getting worse and worse, might see if mcdonalds are hiring. 😂😭
I'm just a diyer. Who wish he could plaster like you. Brilliant video.
Really helpful video, I’ve always wondered the difference between hardwall and bonding and you’ve explained it very clearly, thank you.
Very well explained, helpful video without unnecessary speech. Very well done sir!
Nice vid. It's also important to understand why the plaster has blown. If there's damp, that needs to be root caused and fixed.
Unfortunately with many older stone built buildings with no DPC, there has been inappropriate use of cement and gypsum which seals moisture into the wall and causes the plaster to blow.
why is this so relaxing to watch ? I have a blown area but the substrate is smooth, they justed joint compound and it's just popping off years later....same area on both floors. It's not porous, so I think I need the PVA first. Get it done !
Good break down on dealing with different back grounds, and how to use hardwall / bonding coat
Thank you. Much appreciated pal!
@@PlasteringForBeginnersits because blaine has a massive willy
Thanks for this, really helpful. It wasn't clear to me: did you PVA the plaster as well?
Very good Information, I live in the USA but have a house across the border to Mexico. Bought the house from my mother in law, 40 plus year old, home that was well built, from brick. But now, the paint from prior years is falling apart and cracking. Your videos are very educational and now I know what to do. Thanks A lot
Video is great. What product do I use if I am repairing a lime plastered wall? I dont want to make it not breathable
Great job, I notice ‘damp Sam’ on TH-cam has been reviewing your videos, wouldn’t listen to it. Your top dog at your game, well done
Thank you matey! And yeah…I’m not a fan. He just slates everyone for views. It’s one tactic for views on TH-cam but not one I’m a fan of. Thanks for watching my friend, all the best 👍
A very helpful video describing these two products, their use and surface application. Thank you very much.
great to watch , plenty of skill & as an electrician, i'm just chomping at the bit to get in there & put holes all over it
Thanks very much for posting these useful videos, quick question please, if the crack is getting to the breeze blocks, would you use bonding or hardwall or something else once an engineer cleared it from structural damage ?
Many thanks and Merry Christmas
Brilliant video, thanks for the tips. I'm gonna give it a go myself now 👍
One of the best video clips I have ever watched
I'm addicted to your videos....Can't stop watching 'em HAHA
Glad you like them! Thank you
Awesome, you make it look easy.
Thank you! Cheers!
Damn, I did not know not to PVA hard brick 😢. I literally covered a 2.4m x 4m wall in PVA before applying a bonding coat. After hearing your explanation about the brick suction keeping hold of the bonding coat, I now see the error of my ways 👍
We're all learning my friend. Me also!!
Actually you were fine. The Bonding is intended to stick to low suction backgrounds such as concrete and engineering bricks so sealing something that has suction with pva before bonding is not a problem. Blane said that 'Hardwall' backing plaster relies on suction so that is the one you don't PVA. Just let the brick suck it in.
Hi ya. Would it be a good or bad idea to SBR thermolite blocks before rendering to stop the horrendous suction. Thanks very much.
Yes do it
Love the videos, but why or what causes the plaster to blow in the first place ?
I’ve got a gap between door liner and wall with lath and plaster. Can I use bonding to fill the gap?
Thank you for explaining PVA is not required for brick surface.
Thank you. If you can have a list of materials you used, that will be great. I have no idea what to buy.
When did you PVA the wall mate before applying the bonding
Quick question, I've got painted brickwork that I want to plaster over, would you still use hardwall to cover it at first instance?
No, use green grit first.
That's the one!
Hi mate , I’m wondering if you can help me out.. I was fixing a wall around the fireplace where existing plaster was all cracked due to the heating over the years.. I’ve removed the loose and cracked plaster.. I placed the metal mesh on the bricks and then bonding and plaster however after few months the wall cracked again due to the temperature. Is there any solution to it?
I have a blown plaster hole back to block. I've already PVA the block, is that going to be a problem? What can i do if it is? Thanks great vid wish i watched it beforehand 😂
Can this be used on 100+ year old house? Removed blown plaster but it's the old stuff with horse hair (I think). Or do you have to use lime plaster for flexibility on old bricks?
Lime plaster is best because it will allow the soft brick to breath.
I am in a 1930's house trying to fix some blown plaster in a bathroom with high humidity. Would you use the same materials for a bathroom?
I need to deep fill a few bare block areas and even as a complete DIT platering novice, I didn't think bonding plaster or even mortar was the answer, so naturally I turned to Blaine. Hardwall it is.
I keep hearing the term 'tight coat', can you clarify what this is please?
Is it putting the 2nd layer on before the first layer has set enough in a normal scenario? I initially understood it to be putting a second coat on with the same mix as the first?
A tight coat means a thinly spread coat of plaster/bonding. For areas that aren't deep and don't need filling out alot, they only need a tight coat. Hope this helps
That's the one Ryan!
In Ireland we always x up the original coat of hardwall with a Stanley knife before pva for reskim to give new coat a key as well as the pva Iv noticed you lads don’t bother can I ask why that is ?
Yeah I do the same your only sticking it to the paint then... if the paint is waterbased it will just peel off
When I worked on sites in the UK, the plasterers always did that to the base coat.
Can I tile on top of hardwall
What do you use if there's efflorescence on internal upstairs brickwork?
I want to try my hand at plastering but all the damp proofing I can find seems like it wouldn't give a good key for suction with thistle hardwall.
Surprised at not PVAing on brick, instead using water. Working on a small project at home with exposed old bricks. Just applied PVA a couple of hours ago!
Can you apply hard wall to brick thats has had a DPM paint applied to it?
I've been out to a couple of jobs where walls and ceilings with bonding coat under skimcoat has come off the wall, usually a painted wall underneath. Would PVA really make much difference to getting the bonding coat to adhere ?
I use Murexin Supergrund D4, it's an effing monster, makes loose or porous substrate much, much firmer. The surface feels a bit like sandpaper after it dries.
How well does bonding adhere to that yellow paint? I’m in no way an expert but I’d have scored the wall with a Stanley for a key
What's the difference between hardwall and sand and cement mix? I have exposed Victorian brick
How to plastering painted brick wall please? Should I use PVA for painted brick walls?
thanks a lot 🌞
Great video. Thank you
Hi Blaine can you use hardwall and bonding on the same wall but for different backgrounds? I have a wall that is brick but with a studded and plasterboarded area that used to be a doorway, would I just scrim over the joins between the hardwall and bonding? Cheers
Yeah you can and yeah, scrim the joins beforehand.
@@PlasteringForBeginners cheers 👍👍👍
I always find that when i skim over bonding i get lots of little air bubbles, any advice on how i can stop tips from happening ? Cheers
You need to let the bonding go off further & the bubbles shouldn't appear.Likewise if you apply your 2nd coat of finish to quickly the same thing will happen.
Anyone have any tips on the water to Bonding ratio? I know Blaine recommends more water than Gypsum state for multifinish, is it the same here?
High suction, and/ or deep use hardwall, lower suction shallower fill, bonding, just follow what it says on the bags,
what causes the plaster to blow, there has been times when i put my second coat on i can get a bubble (blown ) patch.. ps im just learning on a old council house ,im using it as a workshop so im lucky on that point..
Its a mixture of things. Age of the original plaster, bad application of new plaster (usually lack of hydration at the beginning leading to the plaster failing), not enough of a key...there's loads of reasons matey. It's quite hard to pin point!
@@PlasteringForBeginners thanks for replying ,i often can get a bubble appear on my second coat maybe i am leaving it to long before i apply the second coat .only trial and error i will figure it out,
hello do you have a link where i can get that mess , i have a job almost the same coming up , im not a plaster just a dad helping out his kids but i have no idea where to get the mesh ,.
On brick i just use bonding but SBR it first. I just prefer not needing two separate products when prepping walls for a skim.
excellent video again blaine real world jobs !
Thanks pal 👍
Do you never use a speed-skim on base coat plaster?
I don't recommend it pal - use a proper straight edge or Darby👍
I remember you did a video testing out one coat plaster and you said you might use it if it saves you time etc. Have you been using it at all?
I did a test of one coat plaster but I don't recommend it mate
Awesome job again blaine, did you pva the whole wall before bonding
Thanks Tom, maybe that's where I got wrong then, if I have a bad back ground I usually pva before bonding anything
Cheers and yeah, I did matey!
Great video
Other plastering websites say that PVA should be used on brick walls to lower the suction rate. Now I'm confused.
I have exact same issue with my 1960s sand and cement rendered walls. Paint is same awful colour as well. Just like outside walls, this layer will move differently to the underlying masonry wall, as will the thin plaster skim above. After 60 years of thermal changes it cracks - that's my theory anyway!
What product would you use if the original plaster was lime?
I'd ask the building supplies company what they recommend. I had spalling concrete in a ceiling and they told me what to use there and it was different than what i needed in teh hall way (Window was leaking and concrete skim coat was just crumbling).
Great stuff as always buddy!
Cheers pal!
What about a painted brick wall? Hardwall or bonding?
Bonding
Bonding 👍
Why use bonding coat and not hard wall thistle
I've just had this on every wall on a garage extension that was done badly 20 years ago, the inner skin was thermalite, and it looked like they didn't wet down the blocks, and their mortar mix was way to strong so it just sucked all the moisture out of the mix, you could literally wobble the blocks, I had to hack 75% off and bed mesh in on a tight coat of bonding. Over the last 20 years the jobs have just been getting worse and worse, might see if mcdonalds are hiring. 😂😭
Cracks may have gone but that bonding coat WILL absorb moisture
What should have been done ?
Yeah let’s get a solution not just pointing out what’s wrong?
Always wondered how do you cope with that terrible scratching noise during plastering for 8 hours or more at your work 🤔?
Noise block Headphones with nice music. Believe me you will be in different world and guess what? The job is done without thinking.
@@bS-he5pn seen many of the plasterers but never seen them wearing headphones. Maybe they're used to it
the name of f nylon to cushing d cracks wall
Why did my plasterer drop so much plaster on the floor?
Amateur?
PVA 1st
👍👍
👍
ter.
How fick is it supposed to be?