Love it, heard all the horror stories too, still bought one knowing what I could be up for. Still worth it in the end. For those looking to do a complete service on their new buy, I did one 2 weeks ago after buying my Ralliart. Full transmission service including internal filter, Super-Sport flash was around $1150 Full Service on car, all fluids, filters, fuel relays, sparks plugs etc was around $1300 I do recommend while they do the transmission service and have the mechatronic unit out to replace the Billet Bore plug, common failure point in the SST due to the OEM being made out of aluminium, where the replacement is stainless steel, that's around $450, worth it for piece of mind. Personally myself I made sure I had enough left over to do the complete service after purchase and a just in case shift fork (again being a common fault people talk about online) replacement, any other mods were done around that budget. If the clutchs are good from first buy and you treat the SST right you'll usually get as long life out of them like Jackson said (as has had), was told that by AK Racing as well. I usually start in sport manual, driving the kids to school takes a good 20 - 30 minutes which allows the transmission to warm up, after that s-sport, by then school traffic has died down anyway lol
Those service prices are identical to my local Mitsu dealer, in CAD though. I found a place local too me in the Toronto area that sells 8 litres of Diaqueen + SST filter as a kit, both genuine, for $380 CAD. It takes 30 minutes to do the change yourself, it's not difficult at all, you need a 17mm socket, a #8 hex bolt socket, socket wrench, jack and stands. The T-Case and Diff fluids are $15 each, the car takes .5 qts of each, takes 20 minutes. Highly recommend to people who want SST driven Evo's/Ralliarts to invest in the tools and a few quick youtube vids on how to do the changes and save yourself tons on money and allow you to do more changes, more often that is just going to extend the clutch pack longer.
Ok I've had my Ralliart Sportback 2009 since 40,000km. Now I have 210,000km. I service motor oil every 5000km, Rear diff every 40,000, SST every 30,000km with heavy driving and if you don't push it 40,000km. I can't stress about SST, don't skimp out, change the fluid, it's not worth rebuilding it to save a couple of $100 bucks when rebuild is $4500 upwards. When you service the SST always and I mean always do a teach-in. This will help tighten up the box and protect the clutches. Problems with these are as follows: # SST shift fork 4 #SST valve body internal filter gets blocked so throw that bad boy out #SST solenoids on valve body get old and stick, they get full of metal/brass etc so get brand new and replace all of them. #Timing pump failure, what occurs is you will blow your oil filter seal as the internal pump piston gets stuck and pressure builds inside the motor so blows the filter seal out. So much fun. # O2 sensors burn out over time # MAF sensor will just die due to water and oil getting stuck on Sensor. Don't buy second hand trust me. They go anytime. # Intercooler hoses stretch and blow out running higher boost so do hard pipe upgrades. It's a fun car but if you drive it alot as a daily just beaware that you have to keep ontop of it.
@@JacksonStrain I do my own fluids and services thanks to Boostin Juice Performance in Sydney. Samuel has saved me thousands by teaching me everything about my car, and I've been hands on with SST alot. I also helped with quite a few rebuilds so I listed all the issues I have had with my car. Mind you my car done alot of highway drives at high speeds when I was in the Army. I did all my upgrades at 50,000kms and has been Dyno tuned since 55,000 km. Running higher boost, on stock TD04 and driving it in Super Sports everyday has saved the box going earlier than 200,000km. I'm now upgrading fuel pump, injector's, and high flow Ralliart twin scroll TD04 developed by Boostin Juice. He spent many hours and years developing his turbo kit and seeing big gains and it's a bolt on kit too!
Ive had my ralliart since 145k im about to do another sst fluid change since im at 163k all stock so far no fork issues thank god lol & my question is should i continue with it or get a new ralliart/evo x w low miles at this point ?.
Oh yeah nice man, how many mods have you done? If you can get a decent price for your Ralliart upgrading to the Evo wouldn't be a bad move especially if you can find one with low kms or a rebuilt box.
thanks very much Jackson, i have a 2012 ralliart sedan in Melbourne no problems what so ever i made sure when i bought it too check the log books and the servicing has 73,650kms on it, got it at 64000kms on it i've had it for almost 1 year and it never skips a beat.
For the evo 9 and 8 some things to check: Compression test and leak down, motors are getting older 4th gear weak in the 6 speed Low oil level in TC can wear pinion Journal bearing worn Rust in the imports ACD pump wine Seat bolster
@@JacksonStrain check out Devin Nemiela, he has some great Evo vlogs, the thing with an 8 is if you lay down 25 to 30k and get a bad one, you might be laying down another 10k+ on a motor pull down so knowing what you're looking at is critical
Looking at a 2010 with 200,000km for 8800$ right now. Not locked in quite yet, waiting for him to get a safety check(think its MOT in europe) done to see what it might need, and then negotiate the price from there. Never owned a mitsubishi before and wasn't even looking for one (was just looking to replace my current daily) but happened across an ad for a ralliart that just caught my eye.
Sounds like a great price, at that km point I'd be checking to see if the SST has ever been rebuilt or replaced as if so great but if not it may need to be done at some point in your ownership
Picking up my Ralliart tomorrow. Will be booking in with AK Racing for them to have a look, especially at the SST. I can pay for a rebuild if needed. Subbed for more good advice, maybe join up for a cruise as I'm also in Brisbane.
Congrats on the purchase man, I actually dropped my car to AK yesterday for it's SST Build so you'll probably see it there. You'll have to join our group QLD CJ OWNERS which is where we host all the meets and sell/buy parts
Thanks mate, yeah if they need work it can be expensive But if you find one with a newly rebuilt or replaced SST I say go for it as you'll have years or worry free owning so long as you look after it
Thank you for the informative information on the SST. How many miles can you expect a stock MR clutch to last? So from what I understand, after about 350ft lbs torque, you will need an upgraded clutch pack, trans cooler and warmer? Anything else that would be needed for reliability and preventative maintenance? The car will be used for some track, canyon and daily use...hoping for 400 whp...
Hey mate, so usually they seem to last until around the 200,000kms (124,000 mile) mark and sometimes longer depending on how its been serviced and treated. As for the torque limits yes you're right after that point it's too much for the clutches to handle so upgraded clutch packs are needed. Trans cooler isn't really needed unless its a track car but the heated sump is a great upgrade as it will get the SST fluid temp to optimal driving temps a lot faster (60°c) but its not needed you can just drive it off boost for 20 mins to get it to temp if you don't have the heated sump. The main thing for reliability is regular servicing and teach ins for the SST plus driving in S-Sport as much as possible and avoiding driving hard until its at optimal temp which you can monitor via the torque pro app and an app ad on
@@JacksonStrain thank you brother. You are one of just a handful of guys online that actually educate SST owners or prospective buyers. Keep up the good work!
@@myusernamead no problems I'm always glad to help wherever I can. You should definitely join the Facebook group Mitsubishi SST owners as there's a lot of knowledgeable members on there
Hey mate! Very informative vid. Im planning to get a 2011 ralliart with about 150k on the clock full logbook history and apparently its tuned aswell i wasnt able to check the drive modes and the sst feels abit weird for me. Like you said it is suppose to slip on normal modes but it has a bit of a jerk shifting up and down. Also as a delay when accelerating from a stand still then an aggressive grab. Not sure if its normal would like to know your opinion about it!. Ta!!
Hey mate that sounds like it's having some issues and I'd walk away and find one that's had an SST rebuild done or one that drives much better. If you get any though first find out where an SST specialist is near and if possible get a pre purchase inspection which is what AK Racing here offers
HI mate, Unsure if you will see this. Looking at buying a 2012 ralliart that has 166k km's. SST seems fine but the current owner never drove it in S-Sport and has owned it for 7 years, He said that a older lady had the car when he bought it. Is there anything I should be concerned about? He has said that the car has always been serviced through Mitsubishi and surely they'd be able to tell if the SST was on its way out? He is after 23k which I don't think is to bad but it's 16k kms over the average. When I get around to buying this one or another one, I plan to bring it upto QLD for the guys at AK and get them to rebuild the SST eventually
Yes a slight slip to make the gear change smooth if its a noticeable slip then there is something wrong with it. Basically if I shifts like a conventional automatic in normal mode at low RPMs then that's exactly how it should be.
Main failures are prior to MY12. I know of around 80 SST. Only heard of 1 post MY12. By the way don't call it a automatic. It so much different to a automatic.
While not a conventional automatic yes, it is still technically an auto as a person who only has an automatic licence is able to legally drive it. I personally wouldn't own a conventional style auto again I still call the SST an automatic as that's the easier way to explain it to people
It's honestly just typical maintenance/best practice for the transmission. Vast majority of people having durability issues are not operating the car properly! These same sort of people will break any kind of car they drive, no mechanical sympathy whatsoever.
I have a gts with a cvt and the same 2 liter mivec n/a now how different is the cvt from the sst? This is what I’m thinking about doing with mine I want to find a wrecked mr and try and get what I need to get ( rear chassis swap, rear end , transfer case, upgraded carbon driveshaft, and final gear and tune) I wantin get an upgraded turbo though but goin to just start with cold air or ram air. I’ve got an evo hood coming and changing out the front clip... my wife isn’t likening the Amazon wish list total so far and I’ve only got the hood different headlights exhaust ( goin borla) and radar detector and already 2 grand haha
Ohh nice man, I'm pretty sure they're fairly different and the CVT doesn't do well much much boost when it does get a turbo added, there's a few guys in Facebook groups I have seen who have done them and had them running well though. Haha yeah in my house we argue over who gets to buy the next part for their car 😂
Hey mate, you can go back to auto when cruising as long as you aren't in S-Sport mode as if you slot it back to auto then it will violently downshift to about 2nd gear and sit at 6krpm. If just wanting to cruise on the motorway normal mode and auto will be fine
The only worry I'd have is the SST and clutches will be getting a bit older and need rebuilding sometime in your ownership so that's something to keep in mind
Hey Jack, I don't really know too much about them and have never driven one. I have heard good things about them but yeah until I drive one I can't say much haha
Purchased my Ralliart for $14200 @ 90000km with some scratches. Car seemed fine but getting home from the trip found a front main seal leaking and transmission filter leak which I got "fixed" but has re occurred again.
What would that fix other than costing a heap of money and losing 1 gear? There's nothing wrong with the box just my clutches which need replacing soon and I think for a 12 year old car with 166,000kms on it to still be on the factory clutches is a good effort
@@akezionimuza8945 that gearbox wouldn't handle the power and torque of the 4b11t so would be even less reliable than the SST trans. People have done an Evo X 5 Speed gearbox conversion into Ralliarts bit it costs a lot and the wiring is a nightmare. If I was that keen I would just buy a manual Evo X on the first place but I already chose to buy the SST instead 5 years ago and would still do the same now as for me and what I use the car for the SST is the better choice
Jackson Strain how many horse in your 4b11t?If u powerup too much ,maybe change to racing manual transmission box will fix.sst won't last for long.yes ,is cost money.
@@akezionimuza8945 my Evo has over 400bhp with more to come and as soon as I upgrade the clutches it can handle more than what my turbo will make. I have a friend who put a turbo on his 5 speed manual lancer with that same gearbox you linked and he couldn't run more than 7psi of boost without breaking them ( I run 26psi in my car) Again the SST in my car has lasted 12 years and 166,000kms on stock clutches so I see no need to put a manual transmission in the car.
As when the car is in normal mode the reason it shifts so smoothly is that the transmission is purposely slipping them to make it smoothly and to mimic how a conventional automatic would shift. If just driving slowly on the motorway or general traffic and staying off boost it's not too bad and you can still use it, but if you're driving on boost and heavy on the throttle then its not good for your clutches at all. I actually have a video coming out tomorrow where I drive in each mode.to show the difference
@@JacksonStrain Thank you much for your quick response much appreciated. Are you saying if you are off the boost and driving in l traffic driving in normal mode is ok? Bur if your driving hard the opposite comes into affect? I own a 2010 which is a second car with low mile 25,000 and it is definitely not drvin hard very hard too in most places the UK too many speed camera's @😑
@@martinjarvie4925 yes mate that is correct, I personally only drive in S-Sport mode as im trying to prolong the life of my slipping clutches. But in a nutshell the normal mode will slip the clutches which is wearing away at them at a faster rate than if you were to drive in S-Sport
@@JacksonStrain Understand thankyou , personally driving in s.sport feels like your thrashing it too death all the time and difficult on UK roads . Thanks Jackson I look forward to seeing your forthcoming video.
How about Proton Inspira, Lancer, Lancer GT and Exo X? I really don't understand about the RALLYART AND SST TRANSMISSION? MORE INFORMATION DUDE, PLEASE 😊🙏 .
Hey dude, we don't have those models here in Australia. The Ralliart is basically a baby Evo so has AWD and turbo with the dual clutch auto transmission. The lancer GT here I believe is called a VRX lancer here and is a FWD and non turbo.
@@JacksonStrain okay i see. Which spec come with for some countries. For example USA come with many spec for exo and for fwd lancer. I got. Nice video bro. And i could see how tough SST TRANSMISSION doing. 😊😊😊
Your comment about not driving in normal mode is incorrect. If you are driving hard then don't use normal. You shouldn't have clutch slip in normal mode.
Yes you can drive in normal mode if your not driving it hard but always being in S sport mode Is better as in normal mode the reason it feels smoother is that the gearbox is adding a little extra slip to the clutches to make smooth shifts and have it feel like a conventional auto
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Love it, heard all the horror stories too, still bought one knowing what I could be up for.
Still worth it in the end.
For those looking to do a complete service on their new buy, I did one 2 weeks ago after buying my Ralliart.
Full transmission service including internal filter, Super-Sport flash was around $1150
Full Service on car, all fluids, filters, fuel relays, sparks plugs etc was around $1300
I do recommend while they do the transmission service and have the mechatronic unit out to replace the Billet Bore plug, common failure point in the SST due to the OEM being made out of aluminium, where the replacement is stainless steel, that's around $450, worth it for piece of mind.
Personally myself I made sure I had enough left over to do the complete service after purchase and a just in case shift fork (again being a common fault people talk about online) replacement, any other mods were done around that budget.
If the clutchs are good from first buy and you treat the SST right you'll usually get as long life out of them like Jackson said (as has had), was told that by AK Racing as well.
I usually start in sport manual, driving the kids to school takes a good 20 - 30 minutes which allows the transmission to warm up, after that s-sport, by then school traffic has died down anyway lol
Great advice mate, good to see you're enjoying your car and looking after it properly
Was this the price of you doing all the work or paying someone to? Also I’m assuming this is dollars ?
Those service prices are identical to my local Mitsu dealer, in CAD though. I found a place local too me in the Toronto area that sells 8 litres of Diaqueen + SST filter as a kit, both genuine, for $380 CAD. It takes 30 minutes to do the change yourself, it's not difficult at all, you need a 17mm socket, a #8 hex bolt socket, socket wrench, jack and stands. The T-Case and Diff fluids are $15 each, the car takes .5 qts of each, takes 20 minutes. Highly recommend to people who want SST driven Evo's/Ralliarts to invest in the tools and a few quick youtube vids on how to do the changes and save yourself tons on money and allow you to do more changes, more often that is just going to extend the clutch pack longer.
Schoolofmonkey where did you get yours serviced?
@@uploadfreshman7490 he got it done at AK racing in Brisbane
Ok I've had my Ralliart Sportback 2009 since 40,000km.
Now I have 210,000km. I service motor oil every 5000km, Rear diff every 40,000, SST every 30,000km with heavy driving and if you don't push it 40,000km. I can't stress about SST, don't skimp out, change the fluid, it's not worth rebuilding it to save a couple of $100 bucks when rebuild is $4500 upwards.
When you service the SST always and I mean always do a teach-in. This will help tighten up the box and protect the clutches.
Problems with these are as follows:
# SST shift fork 4
#SST valve body internal filter gets blocked so throw that bad boy out
#SST solenoids on valve body get old and stick, they get full of metal/brass etc so get brand new and replace all of them.
#Timing pump failure, what occurs is you will blow your oil filter seal as the internal pump piston gets stuck and pressure builds inside the motor so blows the filter seal out. So much fun.
# O2 sensors burn out over time
# MAF sensor will just die due to water and oil getting stuck on Sensor. Don't buy second hand trust me. They go anytime.
# Intercooler hoses stretch and blow out running higher boost so do hard pipe upgrades.
It's a fun car but if you drive it alot as a daily just beaware that you have to keep ontop of it.
Great info mate and I completely agree.
Mine is now at 170,000kms and is still going fine with the occasional slippage
@@JacksonStrain I do my own fluids and services thanks to Boostin Juice Performance in Sydney.
Samuel has saved me thousands by teaching me everything about my car, and I've been hands on with SST alot. I also helped with quite a few rebuilds so I listed all the issues I have had with my car.
Mind you my car done alot of highway drives at high speeds when I was in the Army.
I did all my upgrades at 50,000kms and has been Dyno tuned since 55,000 km. Running higher boost, on stock TD04 and driving it in Super Sports everyday has saved the box going earlier than 200,000km.
I'm now upgrading fuel pump, injector's, and high flow Ralliart twin scroll TD04 developed by Boostin Juice. He spent many hours and years developing his turbo kit and seeing big gains and it's a bolt on kit too!
Ive had my ralliart since 145k im about to do another sst fluid change since im at 163k all stock so far no fork issues thank god lol & my question is should i continue with it or get a new ralliart/evo x w low miles at this point ?.
Oh yeah nice man, how many mods have you done?
If you can get a decent price for your Ralliart upgrading to the Evo wouldn't be a bad move especially if you can find one with low kms or a rebuilt box.
thanks very much Jackson, i have a 2012 ralliart sedan in Melbourne no problems what so ever i made sure when i bought it too check the log books and the servicing has 73,650kms on it, got it at 64000kms on it i've had it for almost 1 year and it never skips a beat.
Nice work man, glad you are enjoying the Ralliart they are great cars with a lot of potential.
For the evo 9 and 8 some things to check:
Compression test and leak down, motors are getting older
4th gear weak in the 6 speed
Low oil level in TC can wear pinion
Journal bearing worn
Rust in the imports
ACD pump wine
Seat bolster
Awesome thanks Jethro, one day I'll get myself an 8 for sure
@@JacksonStrain bro that's a man's car, you're better off with your soft auto X ;)
Haha yeah man full ac and coffee while driving and auto unlock doors while never taking the key out of my pocket.
Gotta love modern tech 😂
@@JacksonStrain check out Devin Nemiela, he has some great Evo vlogs, the thing with an 8 is if you lay down 25 to 30k and get a bad one, you might be laying down another 10k+ on a motor pull down so knowing what you're looking at is critical
@@jethrox827 yeah i love devins channel, one of my favourites for sure
Looking at a 2010 with 200,000km for 8800$ right now. Not locked in quite yet, waiting for him to get a safety check(think its MOT in europe) done to see what it might need, and then negotiate the price from there.
Never owned a mitsubishi before and wasn't even looking for one (was just looking to replace my current daily) but happened across an ad for a ralliart that just caught my eye.
Sounds like a great price, at that km point I'd be checking to see if the SST has ever been rebuilt or replaced as if so great but if not it may need to be done at some point in your ownership
How many miles on your car excellent review thanks 🎉
110,000 miles
Picking up my Ralliart tomorrow. Will be booking in with AK Racing for them to have a look, especially at the SST. I can pay for a rebuild if needed. Subbed for more good advice, maybe join up for a cruise as I'm also in Brisbane.
Congrats on the purchase man, I actually dropped my car to AK yesterday for it's SST Build so you'll probably see it there. You'll have to join our group QLD CJ OWNERS which is where we host all the meets and sell/buy parts
@@JacksonStrain which platform is this group on? I found it on insta...
nice review, still bit worried about getting one tbh but at least i have more info to go on
Thanks mate, yeah if they need work it can be expensive But if you find one with a newly rebuilt or replaced SST I say go for it as you'll have years or worry free owning so long as you look after it
Thank you for the informative information on the SST. How many miles can you expect a stock MR clutch to last?
So from what I understand, after about 350ft lbs torque, you will need an upgraded clutch pack, trans cooler and warmer?
Anything else that would be needed for reliability and preventative maintenance?
The car will be used for some track, canyon and daily use...hoping for 400 whp...
Hey mate, so usually they seem to last until around the 200,000kms (124,000 mile) mark and sometimes longer depending on how its been serviced and treated.
As for the torque limits yes you're right after that point it's too much for the clutches to handle so upgraded clutch packs are needed. Trans cooler isn't really needed unless its a track car but the heated sump is a great upgrade as it will get the SST fluid temp to optimal driving temps a lot faster (60°c) but its not needed you can just drive it off boost for 20 mins to get it to temp if you don't have the heated sump.
The main thing for reliability is regular servicing and teach ins for the SST plus driving in S-Sport as much as possible and avoiding driving hard until its at optimal temp which you can monitor via the torque pro app and an app ad on
@@JacksonStrain thank you brother. You are one of just a handful of guys online that actually educate SST owners or prospective buyers. Keep up the good work!
@@myusernamead no problems I'm always glad to help wherever I can.
You should definitely join the Facebook group Mitsubishi SST owners as there's a lot of knowledgeable members on there
Hey mate! Very informative vid. Im planning to get a 2011 ralliart with about 150k on the clock full logbook history and apparently its tuned aswell i wasnt able to check the drive modes and the sst feels abit weird for me. Like you said it is suppose to slip on normal modes but it has a bit of a jerk shifting up and down. Also as a delay when accelerating from a stand still then an aggressive grab. Not sure if its normal would like to know your opinion about it!. Ta!!
Hey mate that sounds like it's having some issues and I'd walk away and find one that's had an SST rebuild done or one that drives much better.
If you get any though first find out where an SST specialist is near and if possible get a pre purchase inspection which is what AK Racing here offers
I thought so too! Thanks so much for the reply appreciate it!
great video and really good info, wouldnt it be better to wait for the engine and transmission to fully warm up before you put it in sports mode??
Thanks mate,no it's better to drive in S-Sport when it's cold as it produces the least amount of clutch slip
@@JacksonStrain cheers for the reply ! My ralliart only has the sport mode tho but yeah thanks for the info !!!
You can get S-Sport flashed onto your car. Look up www.nrgops.com to do it remotely if you don't have a tuner on your area who can do it
HI mate, Unsure if you will see this. Looking at buying a 2012 ralliart that has 166k km's. SST seems fine but the current owner never drove it in S-Sport and has owned it for 7 years, He said that a older lady had the car when he bought it.
Is there anything I should be concerned about? He has said that the car has always been serviced through Mitsubishi and surely they'd be able to tell if the SST was on its way out? He is after 23k which I don't think is to bad but it's 16k kms over the average.
When I get around to buying this one or another one, I plan to bring it upto QLD for the guys at AK and get them to rebuild the SST eventually
Great video what's the benefits of installing a ten plate clutch pack ?
Thanks mate, the ten plate will handle a bit more power and torque than the OEM clutches. Won't feel as smooth to drive though.
thanks for the video keen too see more content
Thanks mate and there's definitely plenty more to come
car is meant to slip, its designed to slip at low RPMs
theres nothing wrong with the car if it slips at low rpms in normal mode.
Yes a slight slip to make the gear change smooth if its a noticeable slip then there is something wrong with it.
Basically if I shifts like a conventional automatic in normal mode at low RPMs then that's exactly how it should be.
Where did you get the vent piece for the front bumper? I have been looking for one and can't seem to track it down.
A guy named Andrew Pye makes them in batches a few times a year and then advertises them on all the lancer and evo facebook groups.
Main failures are prior to MY12. I know of around 80 SST. Only heard of 1 post MY12.
By the way don't call it a automatic. It so much different to a automatic.
While not a conventional automatic yes, it is still technically an auto as a person who only has an automatic licence is able to legally drive it.
I personally wouldn't own a conventional style auto again I still call the SST an automatic as that's the easier way to explain it to people
Where did you get the evo x style rear bumper from ?
On the black Car?
Its an Evo so its a factory bumper that comes on the car
how do those flashing gauges not drive you crazy??
Haha they don't flash the camera just makes it look that way, have you ever seen what led headlights look like on camera?
Same thing
Service SST yourself and always buy oem diaqueen regardless of cost.
Or castrol transmax dual as it's the same thing and is $100s of dollars cheaper
It's honestly just typical maintenance/best practice for the transmission. Vast majority of people having durability issues are not operating the car properly! These same sort of people will break any kind of car they drive, no mechanical sympathy whatsoever.
Agreed and sadly it was most early owners who first bought the cars new that didn't look after them and left potential future owners with the problemz
I have a gts with a cvt and the same 2 liter mivec n/a now how different is the cvt from the sst? This is what I’m thinking about doing with mine I want to find a wrecked mr and try and get what I need to get ( rear chassis swap, rear end , transfer case, upgraded carbon driveshaft, and final gear and tune) I wantin get an upgraded turbo though but goin to just start with cold air or ram air. I’ve got an evo hood coming and changing out the front clip... my wife isn’t likening the Amazon wish list total so far and I’ve only got the hood different headlights exhaust ( goin borla) and radar detector and already 2 grand haha
Ohh nice man, I'm pretty sure they're fairly different and the CVT doesn't do well much much boost when it does get a turbo added, there's a few guys in Facebook groups I have seen who have done them and had them running well though.
Haha yeah in my house we argue over who gets to buy the next part for their car 😂
Nice car bro Australia or new Zealand?
Thanks man, I'm in Australia
My 8MR Is in Perth.
@@weishen5938 ohh nice, is the Evo scene good out that way?
@@JacksonStrain Excellent! just keep doing what you doing look forward your channel update.
Thank you!
🙏🙏🙏
hey mate, when cruising in 6th is it okay to go back to auto? or always good to stay in manual?
Hey mate, you can go back to auto when cruising as long as you aren't in S-Sport mode as if you slot it back to auto then it will violently downshift to about 2nd gear and sit at 6krpm.
If just wanting to cruise on the motorway normal mode and auto will be fine
@@JacksonStrain same with just sport? as its a ra
cheers for the help!
Hey mate yeah I would put in normal before slipping back to auto as it will downshift a few gears in sport also
looking at this evo x mr for the price of 24000, kms are at 180000. any thoughts?
nzd
The only worry I'd have is the SST and clutches will be getting a bit older and need rebuilding sometime in your ownership so that's something to keep in mind
Sorry for ask, can i knowncolor code for this car???
It's called phantom black and I believe the code is U02
yo Jackson i got a xls cvt 2015, just wanna hear your thoughts on the cvt transmission
Hey Jack, I don't really know too much about them and have never driven one. I have heard good things about them but yeah until I drive one I can't say much haha
What bov do you have installed?
Hey mate it's a turbosmart kompact plumb back BOV
Purchased my Ralliart for $14200 @ 90000km with some scratches. Car seemed fine but getting home from the trip found a front main seal leaking and transmission filter leak which I got "fixed" but has re occurred again.
Ohh damn that's not good man, hopefully you get it sorted soon
Take out the sst box and plug in5 speed Mt box should fix.
What would that fix other than costing a heap of money and losing 1 gear?
There's nothing wrong with the box just my clutches which need replacing soon and I think for a 12 year old car with 166,000kms on it to still be on the factory clutches is a good effort
Jackson Strain www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-LANCER-SPORTBACK-CX-CY-1-8-2-0-2WD-MANUAL-GEARBOX-F5MBB-1-BBY-/253884807432
@@akezionimuza8945 that gearbox wouldn't handle the power and torque of the 4b11t so would be even less reliable than the SST trans.
People have done an Evo X 5 Speed gearbox conversion into Ralliarts bit it costs a lot and the wiring is a nightmare.
If I was that keen I would just buy a manual Evo X on the first place but I already chose to buy the SST instead 5 years ago and would still do the same now as for me and what I use the car for the SST is the better choice
Jackson Strain how many horse in your 4b11t?If u powerup too much ,maybe change to racing manual transmission box will fix.sst won't last for long.yes ,is cost money.
@@akezionimuza8945 my Evo has over 400bhp with more to come and as soon as I upgrade the clutches it can handle more than what my turbo will make.
I have a friend who put a turbo on his 5 speed manual lancer with that same gearbox you linked and he couldn't run more than 7psi of boost without breaking them ( I run 26psi in my car)
Again the SST in my car has lasted 12 years and 166,000kms on stock clutches so I see no need to put a manual transmission in the car.
Why is it best not to drive the sst in normal mode please?
As when the car is in normal mode the reason it shifts so smoothly is that the transmission is purposely slipping them to make it smoothly and to mimic how a conventional automatic would shift.
If just driving slowly on the motorway or general traffic and staying off boost it's not too bad and you can still use it, but if you're driving on boost and heavy on the throttle then its not good for your clutches at all.
I actually have a video coming out tomorrow where I drive in each mode.to show the difference
@@JacksonStrain
Thank you much for your quick response much appreciated.
Are you saying if you are off the boost and driving in l traffic driving in normal mode is ok?
Bur if your driving hard the opposite comes into affect?
I own a 2010 which is a second car with low mile
25,000 and it is definitely
not drvin hard very hard too in most places the UK
too many speed camera's @😑
@@martinjarvie4925 yes mate that is correct, I personally only drive in S-Sport mode as im trying to prolong the life of my slipping clutches.
But in a nutshell the normal mode will slip the clutches which is wearing away at them at a faster rate than if you were to drive in S-Sport
@@JacksonStrain
Understand thankyou , personally driving in s.sport feels like your thrashing it too death all the time and difficult on UK roads .
Thanks Jackson I look forward to seeing your forthcoming video.
How about Proton Inspira, Lancer, Lancer GT and Exo X? I really don't understand about the RALLYART AND SST TRANSMISSION?
MORE INFORMATION DUDE, PLEASE 😊🙏
.
Hey dude, we don't have those models here in Australia.
The Ralliart is basically a baby Evo so has AWD and turbo with the dual clutch auto transmission.
The lancer GT here I believe is called a VRX lancer here and is a FWD and non turbo.
@@JacksonStrain okay i see. Which spec come with for some countries. For example USA come with many spec for exo and for fwd lancer. I got.
Nice video bro. And i could see how tough SST TRANSMISSION doing. 😊😊😊
Your comment about not driving in normal mode is incorrect. If you are driving hard then don't use normal. You shouldn't have clutch slip in normal mode.
Yes you can drive in normal mode if your not driving it hard but always being in S sport mode Is better as in normal mode the reason it feels smoother is that the gearbox is adding a little extra slip to the clutches to make smooth shifts and have it feel like a conventional auto
@@JacksonStrain Doesnt the transmission overheat if you drive normal and not in "normal" mode?
Why do you have that fire extinguisher lol 😆
In case there's ever a fire in mine or anyone else car, every performance car should have one just to be safe
Um....they are both Lancers bud
They certainly are bud, both are different versions of a lancer though.
Thanks for watching
Jackson Strain it’s a lancer but the mr is an evo and ralliart is based off the base model and it’s not considered an evo?
@@ruskibruski that is correct, and no the Ralliart is not considered an Evo.
@@ruskibruski the Ralliart and Evolution are both Lancers..
Just Aname that’s true but they’re both upgraded forms of a regular Lancer. So while they’re similar, they’re also very different.