I stumbled upon your Airhead repair videos while searching for tuba solos. Concordance sometimes defies logic, but what a happy surprise! Thank you for taking the time and effort to record these videos for those of us with mad gummikoo disease.
Thank you for such a great video. I know very little about the final drive and I am going to do the seal as oil poured out as I went to check the drive shaft which I think needs doing. I now know what I am doing thanks to you. Keep up the good work.
+Deno deno Thanks for the compliment Deno. Can I suggest you check your gearbox and final drive oil levels before you start to tear down your final drive pinion seal to see which is low. It may be the gearbox output shaft seal leaking into the drive shaft housing.
+Moto Phoenix yes you are right I think it is the gearbox seal. whilst it is all down I am as we speak making locking tools and pinion ring tool. can't seem to find the 33 1 700 for sale .may as well for the future. thanks Barry
I have only just got the bike and both levels are down. Not sure if it's bad maintenance but there were loads of gear oil in drive tunnel. I have cleaned it up now stripped I will leave it overnight see if I can see oil. Thanks again I have a R 100 gs pd 1992.
Harvey Dunbar Hi, sorry for the delay, I've only just returned from a holiday. Thanks for the comment; if you look around on the web you should find some information on alternatives to the BMW tool.
Hi Marcos, I’m not sure what you are trying to say. If you mean the gearbox output shaft seal, you will need to remove the gearbox and then remove the flange from the output shaft that connects to the drive shaft. You can remove the gearbox without having to remove the paralever assembly. See my video on how to remove the gearbox. Hope that helps.
Thank you very much for your answer ! what i have to change I think they call it rubber boot..It is the rubber that is between the gearbox and the shaft,thaks again if you can help me,best regards,Marcos
@@marcosdelgiudice9129 So you will find that if undo the boot clips, then remove the paralever pivot pins, pull the paralever back about 2-3 cm and undo the drive shaft flange at the gearbox, you will then be able to slip off the old boot and put the new one on to the end of the paralever. Position it carefully and do up the clip. Next reconnect the flange. It is important to use four new bolts and they should be torqued to the recommended setting. Now you can reconnect the paralever pivots at the frame. Make sure the pivots are correctly set and torqued. Now you need to remove the rear damper and raise the paralever on a jack or some such until the paralever is parallel to the ground. Then you should be able to connect the boot to the gearbox fairly easily. Position it carefully and do up the clip. If you don't have the paralever horizontal, the boot is very difficult to connect. Finally reattach the damper. You may find it less of a battle if you do this job with the rear wheel off, but it isn't entirely necessary.
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I stumbled upon your Airhead repair videos while searching for tuba solos. Concordance sometimes defies logic, but what a happy surprise! Thank you for taking the time and effort to record these videos for those of us with mad gummikoo disease.
Damun Gracenin from one Ry Cooder fan to another, you are welcome!
Thank you for such a great video. I know very little about the final drive and I am going to do the seal as oil poured out as I went to check the drive shaft which I think needs doing. I now know what I am doing thanks to you. Keep up the good work.
+Deno deno Thanks for the compliment Deno. Can I suggest you check your gearbox and final drive oil levels before you start to tear down your final drive pinion seal to see which is low. It may be the gearbox output shaft seal leaking into the drive shaft housing.
+Moto Phoenix yes you are right I think it is the gearbox seal. whilst it is all down I am as we speak making locking tools and pinion ring tool. can't seem to find the 33 1 700 for sale .may as well for the future. thanks Barry
I have only just got the bike and both levels are down. Not sure if it's bad maintenance but there were loads of gear oil in drive tunnel. I have cleaned it up now stripped I will leave it overnight see if I can see oil. Thanks again I have a R 100 gs pd 1992.
A good master, a good motorcycle, a good video!
Thank you very much for sharing your experience!!
Great video, just what I was looking for. Shame that I need special tools (not available in Cyprus :( ) Will have to pay the main dealer now.
Harvey Dunbar Hi, sorry for the delay, I've only just returned from a holiday. Thanks for the comment; if you look around on the web you should find some information on alternatives to the BMW tool.
Looks like Tarzan had been working on your engine....he's had a busy life as he had spent time on mine
Many thanks for your videos.
Torque specs back together, castle tread nut 118nm. Pinion nut 200nm!🙂
Thanks
way to guy informative as ever
David Armstrong Thanks Dave :)
hi,I just need to change the seal that goes against the gearbox,I would have to take all this apart ? I hope you can advise me, thanks
Hi Marcos, I’m not sure what you are trying to say. If you mean the gearbox output shaft seal, you will need to remove the gearbox and then remove the flange from the output shaft that connects to the drive shaft. You can remove the gearbox without having to remove the paralever assembly. See my video on how to remove the gearbox. Hope that helps.
Thank you very much for your answer ! what i have to change I think they call it rubber boot..It is the rubber that is between the gearbox and the shaft,thaks again if you can help me,best regards,Marcos
@@marcosdelgiudice9129 So you will find that if undo the boot clips, then remove the paralever pivot pins, pull the paralever back about 2-3 cm and undo the drive shaft flange at the gearbox, you will then be able to slip off the old boot and put the new one on to the end of the paralever. Position it carefully and do up the clip. Next reconnect the flange. It is important to use four new bolts and they should be torqued to the recommended setting. Now you can reconnect the paralever pivots at the frame. Make sure the pivots are correctly set and torqued. Now you need to remove the rear damper and raise the paralever on a jack or some such until the paralever is parallel to the ground. Then you should be able to connect the boot to the gearbox fairly easily. Position it carefully and do up the clip. If you don't have the paralever horizontal, the boot is very difficult to connect. Finally reattach the damper. You may find it less of a battle if you do this job with the rear wheel off, but it isn't entirely necessary.
Manu ⁸