Disassembling, evaluating and prepping for reassembly. Note that this is not a how-to video, it just shows the general procedure for those who are interested.
That fixture is great. It handles every final drive from the /5 to the R1200C and K1200LT, including the G/S 3-lug wheels, K-bikes, etc. The new R1200 and K1200 models introduced around 2005 use a different, and much more expensive, fixture.
Great video. Really helpful in learning your way around a BMW final drive. I am about to setup a spare/backup final drive I purchased for my 2 BMW r1100gs'. Great watching you easily plow through bearing removal and installation.
I did mine, but didn't pull the drive out, just replaced the bearings. Is it worthwhile pulling the driveshaft to grease the splines? It's been sitting for weeks while I got messed up with the heads, probably coulda cleaned it too... Thanks for your help dude.
Hi there, could you supply the measurement of the "castellated" nut remover. Diameter and the width of the teeth in mm. i need to make me one of those. Need to powder coat the housing, so disassembly is needed.
I (and many other BMW mechanics) often refer to parts using the last three digits of the BMW part number. That bearing is part number 33 12 1 236 998.
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@@virginiamotorrad1952 Thank you. I was searching the code of that bearing and I would be confused forever.. I found its code but there is only one brand which is called INA and that is it? No other manufacturer?? Do you sell used parts like bearings? For example a bearing may be ok but you change it just because you are chaging everything else anyway. So even though it is used it can still be in good condition. I may rebuild a whole 1100gs and i dont have much money.. I can use used parts. I am in Germany. I guess you made the pinion retainer remover tool yourself? What diameter tube you used? I need to make myself one also. Thank you for the videos by the way.
360* for any anerobic lock tight. and to heat the case in an oven would be about 350. If you need to do the nuts, then a torch right on the nut will heat to about 300* if the temp of the bolt shows 180 ish it will come off every time as far as I have found. I was amazed at how hear works on these machines.
Nice work. Great to see someone not reaching for a rattle gun for everything.
The support vice to hold the final drive is worth gold!
That fixture is great. It handles every final drive from the /5 to the R1200C and K1200LT, including the G/S 3-lug wheels, K-bikes, etc. The new R1200 and K1200 models introduced around 2005 use a different, and much more expensive, fixture.
@@virginiamotorrad1952 Any idea where I can buy this final drive jig to hold the final drive?
@@martinnaylor2027 BMW sells it. Contact me at the shop website and I'll see what I can get you one for.
Holy mackeral this video is so valuable, thanks for sharing this.
Great video. Really helpful in learning your way around a BMW final drive. I am about to setup a spare/backup final drive I purchased for my 2 BMW r1100gs'. Great watching you easily plow through bearing removal and installation.
I did mine, but didn't pull the drive out, just replaced the bearings. Is it worthwhile pulling the driveshaft to grease the splines? It's been sitting for weeks while I got messed up with the heads, probably coulda cleaned it too... Thanks for your help dude.
Hi there, could you supply the measurement of the "castellated" nut remover.
Diameter and the width of the teeth in mm. i need to make me one of those.
Need to powder coat the housing, so disassembly is needed.
18:10 998 bearing????
I (and many other BMW mechanics) often refer to parts using the last three digits of the BMW part number. That bearing is part number 33 12 1 236 998.
@@virginiamotorrad1952 Thank you. I was searching the code of that bearing and I would be confused forever.. I found its code but there is only one brand which is called INA and that is it? No other manufacturer??
Do you sell used parts like bearings? For example a bearing may be ok but you change it just because you are chaging everything else anyway. So even though it is used it can still be in good condition. I may rebuild a whole 1100gs and i dont have much money.. I can use used parts. I am in Germany.
I guess you made the pinion retainer remover tool yourself? What diameter tube you used? I need to make myself one also.
Thank you for the videos by the way.
What temp did you heat in the oven?
360* for any anerobic lock tight. and to heat the case in an oven would be about 350.
If you need to do the nuts, then a torch right on the nut will heat to about 300* if the temp of the bolt shows 180 ish it will come off every time as far as I have found.
I was amazed at how hear works on these machines.
Usually about 220ºF.