Great video. I installed an 68mm Accufab throttle body on my 2004 Mach 1 yesterday. I used the restrictor gasket " plate" along with the factory gasket and while the idle does climb somewhat, it comes down to 900-950 rpm which is normal. I disconnected both battery cables and hit the brake pedal and pulled the headlight switch on just to be certain the system was completely drained of any power to reset the computer. I put the smaller hole on the restrictor plate gasket towards the passenger side and indeed works exactly as you had stated. I also installed a brand-new Idle control valve just to be safe. Runs perfectly!
No....just disconnect positive cable make a jumper wire run the jumper to the positive and negative (note: don't let any of it touch the positive post use a rag)wait 10 minutes turn key forward wait 10 minuteshit the gas 3 times ...then start ....it works ... When you do any modifications you should do this anytime? You do a tune up you should do this all forward computers have adaptives. This is the only way to reset without a laptop....
Most people having this issue don’t realize those factory gaskets are trash . Use some RTV and clean IAC with carb cleaner. Take off negative cable, wait 20 min. The restrictor plates work by lack of air pressure.
Never was a 4.6 Mustang fan until I just got a 2000 GT Convert. for a project car. You got that thing sounding nice, got to love the cam chop. Mine is a little hard to start, have to help it idle with accel pedal but even then it's not running as it should. Seem to have good fuel pressure, will be cleaning the IAC soon, got to check all the small stuff now.
I just ordered this restrictor plate on amazon after watching your video, it'll be here tomorrow. I hope this fixes my hanging Rpm issue on my 04 Mustang GT. Shifting/Revving with hanging Rpms is really annoying. Thanks for the video.
@@rileyhinton7013 it’s worked great for me! Try installing it the other way to see if it makes a difference. Could also be something else contributing to it
I've got the same problem on my 1995 GT Convertible. The revs hang for 3 to 4 seconds between upshifts before coming back down. New IAC on the way and hopefully will find the plate to fix the problem. Thanks for the info!
Great video, but I didnt buy a restrictor plate, I used an old credit card and cuted it same size of the gasket and made a little hole using a drill and its been working Great!!!
Awesome video. I did it on my 99 gt with the small hole facing the right side right away and 2 gaskets sandwiching the plate and it works amazing, before the rev hang was so annoying but the rpm drops how it should be now and the car also has more engine braking because of it. Something to note is it gave me a CEL Code P1506 which means an issue with the IAC valve no suprise! Obviously nothing to worry about as its just the restrictor plate causing it. It also bumped up my idle to about 1100-1200 rpm and that is on the stock tune. Would highly recomend to anyone with the same issue on these GTs.
I had this problem on my 95. The IAC valve is only used when the power steering pump is working (when turning the wheel), or a/c clutch is engaged (to charge the a/c system). Other than that, the base idle is set by how much the throttle bodies butterfly valve is cracked open. On my car, this is adjustable by turning a set screw and locking it into place on the throttle body. It was set to 750 rpm. If your car is equipped with a throttle by wire system, your tuner would have to set that I'd imagine. In fact,, the IAC may be aiding in the base idle of the car (when accessories mentioned above are not in use) and overcompensating because it has been restricted. Causing a higher idle speed. I'd unplug the IAC and set a base idle at the throttle body and see how the engine responds when you plug the IAC back in. Other than that, make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere. Make sure the entire cars electronics are in good working order with quality grounds and not errand shorts. If you haven't changed out all of the engine sensors, do so. Make sure fuel pressure is within spec. All the basic stuff, a thorough once over on the car. I did all of these things and the net effect was an engine that ran a whole lot better with a very much decreased idle hang issue, without a IAC restrictor plate. I mean, I would barely turn the key to start the car and it would fire up instantly with vigor really. Oh, and if you really want a snappy throttle response, consider a smaller diameter clutch and lightweight flywheel. I installed a 8.5" clutch from quarter master with an aluminum flywheel and it was half the weight. This made the engine much more rev happy and worked better than a stock clutch tbh.
I’ve been having the same issue with my 04 v6 mustang, and whenever I shift with the clutch in the RPMs just sit there. When it was really bad the RPMs would actually jump when shifting, and when holding the clutch in. I’ve been having this problem with it since June of this year, and it has been on and off. It is really annoying too when they just hang, or not drop like they should. I’m going to give this a try, and see if I can get anywhere with mine. Awesome video.
@@CovertGarage do you know if there are any long term problems that this can cause? I’ve been trying to do as much research on this problem. It’s just another annoying thing that Ford has done for emission problems. Since yours has had this plate on for some time now, how is the car after the upload of the video on the restrictor plate?
@@juanrico352 I do not know of any long term issues. The computer will adjust everything to run properly. Mine has been just fine. Think I have a little vacuum leak causing a high idle. Not a result of the plate though
@@CovertGarage could you possibly do a video on that? There’s not much info about the sn95 to new edge mustangs. I just fixed my exhaust leak which was from a bad gasket. Also ordered a restrictor plate, awesome content, and hope to see the stang grow🤘
@@juanrico352 I can definitely do that! Stang is down right now till brakes come in but will definitely make one! Also hope the restrictor plate does the job!
Just got an 03 mustang gt…code 1504 popped up which is for iac.when removing it noticed previous owner had a gasket covering both holes which explained why car couldnt stay on..replaced gasket now its revving like crazy but on only on park and neutral.
bro you’re is so much better than mine. if i let out in any gear and push clutch in the idle hangs at 1500 exactly until i come to a stop then drops and tries to die.
What did you ever figure out about the high idle? I have a 04 GT, stock, w/exhaust. Restrictor plate fixed my hanging RPM, but I also have a high idle after. 1000-1100 rpm.
I noticed my iac plunger isn't moving. I took it off the car and watched it and it clicks like it's trying to move the plunger but nothing happens. I tried cleaning it and lubing it but nada. My idle is fine until I start driving the car. If a different iac doesnt work, I'll probably try the plate. I know I need a tune because everything is ported now and I have 17cc dished forged pistons now, but until I get a tune, im stuck with any issues ill have. I have a 2001 cobra with a built 98 cobra powertain and when I sold the 2001 cobra manifold, I forgot to take the iac off and I'm kicking myself in the azz now.
@@CovertGarage Your mannerisms, looks and voice, definitely could be a younger Matt Damon 👍 I'm chasing a similar issue with my foxbody. For as cheap as these plates are I'll give it a try.
Pulling up to a stop sign or stop light after doing a 2nd/3rd gear pull and there's a cop there thinking I'm holding the gas down 🤦♂️ lmao I hope this fixes my issue
@@CovertGarage so this fixed my hanging revs and the car drives awesome now but now at idle it sits around 1100rpm. I left the negative terminal off the battery while putting in the restrictor plate figuring it would re-learn the base idle but now it's a little high. Any clues?
@@dusty1268 I just went through the same problem. Car was idling at 950-1100. Turns out my IAC itself was bad causing the high idle. Very easy to diagnose. Just got a new one and my idle was back to normal. If it’s not the IAC start by checking for vacuum leaks
@@CovertGarage guess I'll be looking for leaks because my IAC is new. Car had issues dying coming to a stop when I got it so it instantly got plugs, wires, coil packs, TPS and IAC and it solved that problem. My car has long tube headers (no cats) so I'm assuming it has been tuned at some point because there's no lights on lol maybe it's in correlation to that who knows
@@dusty1268 could be a tune issue. Hard to tell without diving into the tune🤷🏼♂️. If you have a tuner that is able to, look at what the desired idle rpm is set at. First culprit I’d look for is definitely vacuum leak. That would be the easiest fix at least hahaha. Just smoke test it if you can
Amazing video man! I just bought an 03 gt and this is definitely something that I need to do. Also I had another quick question. When you drive and shift in your sn95 do you feel like there's play in the drive shaft almost? Thats the best way I can think to explain it. It almost makes a noise when you let the clutch out, and I heard some people say that was normal with these trannys but I just wanted to see if you've experienced that before. Thanks! Earned a sub
Thank you so much! I’ve felt that a little with mine. Mine was more rear end related I believe. Was low on diff fluid. Once I filled it back up (and changed trans fluid) it went away. The clutches in the diff are also known to wear out after some mileage
@Covert Garage makes sense, that should already be on my list too. Just freshen up all the fluids lol. Hopefully it's nothing too serious she only has 65k miles on her. Thanks again man!! Great build
Mine was doing that and the pinion to ring gear backlash was 3 times spec due to the previous owner installing 3.73's incorrectly. I put the backlash in spec and the clunk went away.
Having this issue with my mountaineer can literally hear and feel the transmission ripping the rpm down between shifts after the shift kit lol sounds so violent and not in a good way🤣
@@CovertGarage dude u gotta check out Chris4.6 mustang on here he did an h.pipe with slp loudd mouths 2 and it sounds bad ass with the poping sound.just throwing that out there man
I got a 2004 gt, it usually does this after small pulls. The rpm’s will stay at 2k when cursing in gear. Once I put it in neutral and come to a stop it stays up at 2k until I put it in gear and take off. Is this the same problem?
I did an engine swap on mine I got it on auction and it was blown up so when we put the IAC on I put it on upside down on accident and it was making a humming noise so trying to figure out that noise I left it on but unplugged and it stopped and idled and ran great no rpm hanging or anything I then figured out it was upside down so I flipped it and plugged it in and no humming noise but rough idle and hanging rpm I think imma turn it back upside down and leave it unplugged do you think that would hurt anything in the long run anyone?
@@CovertGarage thanks for replying. Mine do the same thing. It's mostly on the driver's side for me. I have to wipe it off after every drive if I don't want it to travel down the head and onto my headers. They don't have the shrouding for the PCV like the stock ones either, so I suck a lot of oil through the PCV system into the intake. I really have to keep an eye on my oil level; it's that bad. I'm probably going back to the stockers just to be safe even though the trick flow covers look great. Nice video. Thanks again!
@@ponycorral99 sounds like yours is a little worse than mine unfortunately. I do keep an eye on my oil level too. Definitely a little concerning hahaha. I do love the look though
Just got a 2000 gt to start my first real build and am having trouble getting the idle to go down correctly and I bought one and did not do much but maybe I installed wrong my iac is on the front and I put smaller hole of restrictor plate to the left and did not do much did I install wrong?
@@caporegime209 Yeah it did. Every time I mess with it I unplug the battery or do a KAM reset. That’ll help the process go faster. Usually takes 40 miles or so for me
@@awh5773 Is your IAC functioning properly? If it is, it may be worth a shot. I haven't read too much about that problem in the 5.8 so I am certainly no expert. I would think there may be something else going on. Check TPS too if you haven't already!
@@CovertGarage I do know that it has wrong throttle body from an automatic on it. Can you do an idle reset on a truck 5.8L like you do on a mustang with a 302?
@@awh5773 Wrong throttle body could definitely play a factor!! I’m not sure if you can do a throttle reset. Do to the age, that may not be a factor, but I am not sure
@@CovertGarage Yeah that may be my next step although I just have exhaust and KN Cai. I’ve had issues lately with computer seeing lean condition and running overly rich. Monitored data and have been stumped. Starting to think the MaF sensor doesn’t like the location just behind the filter. If I blow on the air filter while it’s running it tries to shut off the engine….Last night i discovered the EGR is most likely stuck open. So once it warms up I lose power with all the exhaust gases dumping into the cylinders.
@@2vcrew782 Hmmmm that’s interesting. The EGR just deals with exhaust gasses so I wouldn’t think there would be much of an effect on the engine. That’s why you can delete it with no negative impact aside from the check engine light. Tried cleaning the MAF already?
@@CovertGarage That’s what I thought. I replaced the MaF and then put another new motorcraft one in. The data from it looks good but if it’s windy it starts running rough. I swear it’s the cai design and the car just doesn’t like it. As for the EGR the only negative effect on the engine I’ve read is when it’s stuck open and the engine reaches operating temperature if the EGR doesn’t close the hot exhaust gases are inert and when they enter the cylinder it greatly reduces the amount of space for combustion because the inert gases from exhaust take up volume in the cylinder.
@@2vcrew782 That makes sense about the EGR. For mine I got the EGR block off plate from LMR I believe. Then just plugged a couple vaccum lines and good to go! The situation with the wind and running rough is still confusing. I'd say test the IAC for kicks and giggles to make sure its running properly. Maybe its an issue of unmetered air getting into the engine🤷♂. I guess it could be a CAI issue, but i'd test everything else before dropping money on a new one
What mufflers are you running ? I am gutting a 1994 sn95 that was rearended going to install parts in a 1957 thunderbird . I have another sn95 with a idle hanging problem. Stock setup . Have to try the idle air plate .
The reason you were stalling was restricting the IAC, the reason the RPM's hang slightly from the factory is to help keep a load on the alternator in the event you come to a stop with the HVAC, radio etc on. It's completely normal for the RPM to hang for a second by design, IAC's were an early 90's design for EFI & they weren't very efficient. The 1990's was really an exploratory phase for EFI, manufacturers were trying to come up with cost-effective materials and designs, that's why cars like the NewEdge had such cheap plastic compared to prior decades.
Not sure what rear gearing you was talking about going to but on a dyno going from something like a 3.55 to a 4.10 the dyno will actually show LESS Hp..not more.
@@angelgjr1999 only half right.. you make power sooner.. but its not a increase in power. It moves the power band. It can move to where you run out of steam too early and actually lose power.
@@TheModAddict Run out of power? I guess if you have a single speed car. I am always I. The power band in my 2003 Mustang GT thanks to the gears. Fastest I’ve gone was 145 mph…
@@angelgjr1999 yes..run out of power. Are you familiar what a power band is? Look at ANY dyno and you can see where a engine STOPS making power. I cant tell if you're messing with me or you're just that dense.
what lower intake are you running i saw that yours was painted and didn’t know if it was a pro comp or stock. i have an issue where my car idles at like 1250- 1500 after installing the pro comp lower plenum and i have to keep my iac unplugged to keep it at 850-950. for anyone that is reading this yes i have messed with the idle screw and even put the old throttle body on but im still having this issue
Dude just repeats his self 14 times. Fast forward to 5-6 mins to actually see what the issue he has it lol
Watched the full vid double speed and read this😂
Great video. I installed an 68mm Accufab throttle body on my 2004 Mach 1 yesterday. I used the restrictor gasket " plate" along with the factory gasket and while the idle does climb somewhat, it comes down to 900-950 rpm which is normal. I disconnected both battery cables and hit the brake pedal and pulled the headlight switch on just to be certain the system was completely drained of any power to reset the computer. I put the smaller hole on the restrictor plate gasket towards the passenger side and indeed works exactly as you had stated. I also installed a brand-new Idle control valve just to be safe. Runs perfectly!
Thank you so much! I’m glad it worked well for you!
No....just disconnect positive cable make a jumper wire run the jumper to the positive and negative (note: don't let any of it touch the positive post use a rag)wait 10 minutes turn key forward wait 10 minuteshit the gas 3 times ...then start ....it works ... When you do any modifications you should do this anytime? You do a tune up you should do this all forward computers have adaptives. This is the only way to reset without a laptop....
Most people having this issue don’t realize those factory gaskets are trash . Use some RTV and clean IAC with carb cleaner. Take off negative cable, wait 20 min. The restrictor plates work by lack of air pressure.
Never was a 4.6 Mustang fan until I just got a 2000 GT Convert. for a project car. You got that thing sounding nice, got to love the cam chop. Mine is a little hard to start, have to help it idle with accel pedal but even then it's not running as it should. Seem to have good fuel pressure, will be cleaning the IAC soon, got to check all the small stuff now.
Thanks!! Could be a bunch of stuff causing that
This guy looks like a janitor that solves complicated math problems on board of the college he works at
Hahaha 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
I just ordered this restrictor plate on amazon after watching your video, it'll be here tomorrow. I hope this fixes my hanging Rpm issue on my 04 Mustang GT. Shifting/Revving with hanging Rpms is really annoying. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I hope it fixes your issue! It certainly is annoying
Did this actually work? I got one and mine hasn’t worked. Installed it correctly and still hangs terribly. Idk what else it could be
@@rileyhinton7013 it’s worked great for me! Try installing it the other way to see if it makes a difference. Could also be something else contributing to it
@@rileyhinton7013 it didn’t work for me either. Still trying to figure out the issue. Only thing else I can think of is maybe tuning it out.
Also replacing the Idle Air Control Valve might help I haven’t done that yet.
I've got the same problem on my 1995 GT Convertible. The revs hang for 3 to 4 seconds between upshifts before coming back down. New IAC on the way and hopefully will find the plate to fix the problem. Thanks for the info!
Great video, but I didnt buy a restrictor plate, I used an old credit card and cuted it same size of the gasket and made a little hole using a drill and its been working Great!!!
Hey props to you for being resourceful! Works just the same! Glad it worked for you
Awesome video. I did it on my 99 gt with the small hole facing the right side right away and 2 gaskets sandwiching the plate and it works amazing, before the rev hang was so annoying but the rpm drops how it should be now and the car also has more engine braking because of it.
Something to note is it gave me a CEL Code P1506 which means an issue with the IAC valve no suprise! Obviously nothing to worry about as its just the restrictor plate causing it. It also bumped up my idle to about 1100-1200 rpm and that is on the stock tune.
Would highly recomend to anyone with the same issue on these GTs.
Great video. I have 98 gt and exactly the same problem with stock throttle body.
Thank you!! It’s a really common problem unfortunately
90 percent of new edges have an unpainted cobra bumper 🤣
I think you’re right 🤣
Happy to be in the 10%😂
@@clenziesmith7343 same 😂
@@DriveWayMafia same
I had this problem on my 95. The IAC valve is only used when the power steering pump is working (when turning the wheel), or a/c clutch is engaged (to charge the a/c system). Other than that, the base idle is set by how much the throttle bodies butterfly valve is cracked open. On my car, this is adjustable by turning a set screw and locking it into place on the throttle body. It was set to 750 rpm. If your car is equipped with a throttle by wire system, your tuner would have to set that I'd imagine. In fact,, the IAC may be aiding in the base idle of the car (when accessories mentioned above are not in use) and overcompensating because it has been restricted. Causing a higher idle speed. I'd unplug the IAC and set a base idle at the throttle body and see how the engine responds when you plug the IAC back in. Other than that, make sure there are no vacuum leaks anywhere. Make sure the entire cars electronics are in good working order with quality grounds and not errand shorts. If you haven't changed out all of the engine sensors, do so. Make sure fuel pressure is within spec. All the basic stuff, a thorough once over on the car. I did all of these things and the net effect was an engine that ran a whole lot better with a very much decreased idle hang issue, without a IAC restrictor plate. I mean, I would barely turn the key to start the car and it would fire up instantly with vigor really. Oh, and if you really want a snappy throttle response, consider a smaller diameter clutch and lightweight flywheel. I installed a 8.5" clutch from quarter master with an aluminum flywheel and it was half the weight. This made the engine much more rev happy and worked better than a stock clutch tbh.
in the tune, there are two idle settings while driving and stopped. I had the same problem; set the idle to 760 idle and 780 driving
I’ve been having the same issue with my 04 v6 mustang, and whenever I shift with the clutch in the RPMs just sit there. When it was really bad the RPMs would actually jump when shifting, and when holding the clutch in. I’ve been having this problem with it since June of this year, and it has been on and off. It is really annoying too when they just hang, or not drop like they should. I’m going to give this a try, and see if I can get anywhere with mine. Awesome video.
Give it a shot!! Hopefully it’ll fix your problem!
@@CovertGarage do you know if there are any long term problems that this can cause? I’ve been trying to do as much research on this problem. It’s just another annoying thing that Ford has done for emission problems. Since yours has had this plate on for some time now, how is the car after the upload of the video on the restrictor plate?
@@juanrico352 I do not know of any long term issues. The computer will adjust everything to run properly. Mine has been just fine. Think I have a little vacuum leak causing a high idle. Not a result of the plate though
@@CovertGarage could you possibly do a video on that? There’s not much info about the sn95 to new edge mustangs. I just fixed my exhaust leak which was from a bad gasket. Also ordered a restrictor plate, awesome content, and hope to see the stang grow🤘
@@juanrico352 I can definitely do that! Stang is down right now till brakes come in but will definitely make one! Also hope the restrictor plate does the job!
Just got an 03 mustang gt…code 1504 popped up which is for iac.when removing it noticed previous owner had a gasket covering both holes which explained why car couldnt stay on..replaced gasket now its revving like crazy but on only on park and neutral.
Hmmmm that’s very strange! Wonder if it’s a bad IAC
Dude! New fan! LOL! This was so much help, THANK YOU!
Thank you so much man!! Glad I could help!
bro you’re is so much better than mine. if i let out in any gear and push clutch in the idle hangs at 1500 exactly until i come to a stop then drops and tries to die.
Hmmm that almost sounds like a bad IAC. Maybe even vacuum?
Yo I took out your food at sonic today
@@supmeteor8750 Heck yeah thanks haha
Mine hangs around 2K no vacuum but I do have to fix my o2 sensors
Awesome video great info thank you so much 🔥🔥
Thanks for watching!!🤟🏻
My 03 Mach does this always thought it was the cam but seems like everyone has this
It’s a super common thing!
What did you ever figure out about the high idle? I have a 04 GT, stock, w/exhaust. Restrictor plate fixed my hanging RPM, but I also have a high idle after. 1000-1100 rpm.
Turns out my high idle issue was caused by the IAC itself. Replaced the IAC and the high idle went away
Might b the Iac valve
I noticed my iac plunger isn't moving. I took it off the car and watched it and it clicks like it's trying to move the plunger but nothing happens. I tried cleaning it and lubing it but nada.
My idle is fine until I start driving the car. If a different iac doesnt work, I'll probably try the plate. I know I need a tune because everything is ported now and I have 17cc dished forged pistons now, but until I get a tune, im stuck with any issues ill have.
I have a 2001 cobra with a built 98 cobra powertain and when I sold the 2001 cobra manifold, I forgot to take the iac off and I'm kicking myself in the azz now.
I found that using a 3/8 socket in the idle tube was a better way for me
I’ve heard that works too! Glad it’s working for you!
How do u do that?
I thought It did that as automatic rev matching
I wish hahaha
Great vid! BTW you were awesome in Ford vs Ferrari! 😆
Hahaha thank you🤣
@@CovertGarage Your mannerisms, looks and voice, definitely could be a younger Matt Damon 👍 I'm chasing a similar issue with my foxbody. For as cheap as these plates are I'll give it a try.
@@applefordguy76 I get that a lot lol. Definitely worth a shot!
Pulling up to a stop sign or stop light after doing a 2nd/3rd gear pull and there's a cop there thinking I'm holding the gas down 🤦♂️ lmao I hope this fixes my issue
I know the feeling haha. Hoping it fixes it for you!
@@CovertGarage so this fixed my hanging revs and the car drives awesome now but now at idle it sits around 1100rpm. I left the negative terminal off the battery while putting in the restrictor plate figuring it would re-learn the base idle but now it's a little high. Any clues?
@@dusty1268 I just went through the same problem. Car was idling at 950-1100. Turns out my IAC itself was bad causing the high idle. Very easy to diagnose. Just got a new one and my idle was back to normal. If it’s not the IAC start by checking for vacuum leaks
@@CovertGarage guess I'll be looking for leaks because my IAC is new. Car had issues dying coming to a stop when I got it so it instantly got plugs, wires, coil packs, TPS and IAC and it solved that problem. My car has long tube headers (no cats) so I'm assuming it has been tuned at some point because there's no lights on lol maybe it's in correlation to that who knows
@@dusty1268 could be a tune issue. Hard to tell without diving into the tune🤷🏼♂️. If you have a tuner that is able to, look at what the desired idle rpm is set at. First culprit I’d look for is definitely vacuum leak. That would be the easiest fix at least hahaha. Just smoke test it if you can
What exhaust on the car
dude that car sounds great man
Thank you so much!
Amazing video man! I just bought an 03 gt and this is definitely something that I need to do. Also I had another quick question. When you drive and shift in your sn95 do you feel like there's play in the drive shaft almost? Thats the best way I can think to explain it. It almost makes a noise when you let the clutch out, and I heard some people say that was normal with these trannys but I just wanted to see if you've experienced that before. Thanks! Earned a sub
Thank you so much! I’ve felt that a little with mine. Mine was more rear end related I believe. Was low on diff fluid. Once I filled it back up (and changed trans fluid) it went away. The clutches in the diff are also known to wear out after some mileage
@Covert Garage makes sense, that should already be on my list too. Just freshen up all the fluids lol. Hopefully it's nothing too serious she only has 65k miles on her. Thanks again man!! Great build
@@-Noc I’m sure it’s nothing too serious! Good luck and thank you!
Mine was doing that and the pinion to ring gear backlash was 3 times spec due to the previous owner installing 3.73's incorrectly. I put the backlash in spec and the clunk went away.
194k on a 4.6 GT wow how is she doing today?
Doing great! Just turned over 198k
Having this issue with my mountaineer can literally hear and feel the transmission ripping the rpm down between shifts after the shift kit lol sounds so violent and not in a good way🤣
Ohhh boy hahaha
mine does it at a stop light or stop sign and it's so annoying.the reason I don't drive it and it won't go down unless I turn it off
Sounds like you might have a bad IAC itself
thanks man I actually ordered that restrictor plate lastt night
@@linoacuna4283 I hope it works well for you!!
@@CovertGarage dude u gotta check out Chris4.6 mustang on here he did an h.pipe with slp loudd mouths 2 and it sounds bad ass with the poping sound.just throwing that out there man
@@linoacuna4283 heck yeah I’ll check him out!
Nice 🔥🙏 I would assume factory gasket on the v6 is garbage also I should try this
Give it a shot! Been working for me for a while now!
I've got a 98 cobra that's having this issue even though I've got a new IAC valve on it. Would the restrictor plate solve this problem?
There’s a good chance it will help! Mine has a new IAC too and the plate really helps. For the price it doesn’t hurt to try!
@@CovertGarage Thanks. I'll give it a try.
I got a 2004 gt, it usually does this after small pulls. The rpm’s will stay at 2k when cursing in gear. Once I put it in neutral and come to a stop it stays up at 2k until I put it in gear and take off. Is this the same problem?
It could be the issue! Just test for vacuum leaks too
Did you end up finding the problem boss? My does the same thing
I did an engine swap on mine I got it on auction and it was blown up so when we put the IAC on I put it on upside down on accident and it was making a humming noise so trying to figure out that noise I left it on but unplugged and it stopped and idled and ran great no rpm hanging or anything I then figured out it was upside down so I flipped it and plugged it in and no humming noise but rough idle and hanging rpm I think imma turn it back upside down and leave it unplugged do you think that would hurt anything in the long run anyone?
That’s very strange!! I don’t think it would hurt anything unless there’s a big misfire or something
What about on a 95 gt 5.0 when i go yo stop it does same thing
I’m not too versed in the differences in the 5.” Vs. 4.6. Not sure if it would be a similar issue
Do you have oil leaking around those fill plug grommets on the trick flow valve covers?
A little bit on the side of the pcv valve. Nothing major. But annoying. That’s the only place
@@CovertGarage thanks for replying. Mine do the same thing. It's mostly on the driver's side for me. I have to wipe it off after every drive if I don't want it to travel down the head and onto my headers. They don't have the shrouding for the PCV like the stock ones either, so I suck a lot of oil through the PCV system into the intake. I really have to keep an eye on my oil level; it's that bad. I'm probably going back to the stockers just to be safe even though the trick flow covers look great. Nice video. Thanks again!
@@ponycorral99 sounds like yours is a little worse than mine unfortunately. I do keep an eye on my oil level too. Definitely a little concerning hahaha. I do love the look though
I haven't watched the whole video but I got one for my 5.0
Just got a 2000 gt to start my first real build and am having trouble getting the idle to go down correctly and I bought one and did not do much but maybe I installed wrong my iac is on the front and I put smaller hole of restrictor plate to the left and did not do much did I install wrong?
What side does the small hole go on? I have the small hole on the motor side which is the passenger side on a 98 gt
I tried it both ways, worked best on the drivers side for me. So looking at it from the front of the car, small hole on the right.
@@CovertGarage thanks did the computer have to relearn idle before u noticed a improvement
@@caporegime209 Yeah it did. Every time I mess with it I unplug the battery or do a KAM reset. That’ll help the process go faster. Usually takes 40 miles or so for me
@@CovertGarage appreciate it, just subbed and followed on ig
@@caporegime209 Really appreciate that man!!
do you think this would work on a 1988 f250 with a 5.8L? my truck does that same slow idle return that your car is doing
Hmmmm I’m not sure. I have a 91 with a 5.8 too. I’m definitely check for vacuum leaks first
@@CovertGarage nope she sealed up tight
@@awh5773 Is your IAC functioning properly? If it is, it may be worth a shot. I haven't read too much about that problem in the 5.8 so I am certainly no expert. I would think there may be something else going on. Check TPS too if you haven't already!
@@CovertGarage I do know that it has wrong throttle body from an automatic on it. Can you do an idle reset on a truck 5.8L like you do on a mustang with a 302?
@@awh5773 Wrong throttle body could definitely play a factor!! I’m not sure if you can do a throttle reset. Do to the age, that may not be a factor, but I am not sure
I’ve had this issue with my new edge since I got it three years ago. I was going to install the plate this spring. Have you deleted the EGR?
Yes I have deleted the EGR
@@CovertGarage Yeah that may be my next step although I just have exhaust and KN Cai. I’ve had issues lately with computer seeing lean condition and running overly rich. Monitored data and have been stumped. Starting to think the MaF sensor doesn’t like the location just behind the filter. If I blow on the air filter while it’s running it tries to shut off the engine….Last night i discovered the EGR is most likely stuck open. So once it warms up I lose power with all the exhaust gases dumping into the cylinders.
@@2vcrew782 Hmmmm that’s interesting. The EGR just deals with exhaust gasses so I wouldn’t think there would be much of an effect on the engine. That’s why you can delete it with no negative impact aside from the check engine light. Tried cleaning the MAF already?
@@CovertGarage That’s what I thought. I replaced the MaF and then put another new motorcraft one in. The data from it looks good but if it’s windy it starts running rough. I swear it’s the cai design and the car just doesn’t like it. As for the EGR the only negative effect on the engine I’ve read is when it’s stuck open and the engine reaches operating temperature if the EGR doesn’t close the hot exhaust gases are inert and when they enter the cylinder it greatly reduces the amount of space for combustion because the inert gases from exhaust take up volume in the cylinder.
@@2vcrew782 That makes sense about the EGR. For mine I got the EGR block off plate from LMR I believe. Then just plugged a couple vaccum lines and good to go!
The situation with the wind and running rough is still confusing. I'd say test the IAC for kicks and giggles to make sure its running properly. Maybe its an issue of unmetered air getting into the engine🤷♂. I guess it could be a CAI issue, but i'd test everything else before dropping money on a new one
What mufflers are you running ? I am gutting a 1994 sn95 that was rearended going to install parts in a 1957 thunderbird . I have another sn95 with a idle hanging problem. Stock setup . Have to try the idle air plate .
Currently none lol. Long tubes, O/R x-pipes, straight pipes. Definitely recommend mufflers though it’s too loud
I tried it on my 02 GT, goes well without AC use, the car was stalling when AC was on. So I took it off.
Sounds like you have a bad idle air control valve
@@CovertGarage works great without it. Yours doesnt stall with ac at full when you come to a red light ?
@@Chrissurfs Mine does not. Drives completely normally with the plate installed. Really curious as to why yours is doing that
@@CovertGarage thanks man. reading around in forums Im not the only one. Im in a warm area. I loved it without AC use.
The reason you were stalling was restricting the IAC, the reason the RPM's hang slightly from the factory is to help keep a load on the alternator in the event you come to a stop with the HVAC, radio etc on. It's completely normal for the RPM to hang for a second by design, IAC's were an early 90's design for EFI & they weren't very efficient. The 1990's was really an exploratory phase for EFI, manufacturers were trying to come up with cost-effective materials and designs, that's why cars like the NewEdge had such cheap plastic compared to prior decades.
I have the samee problem on my 96 gt 4.6
Should do a video making a homemade plate 👀
Might be able to do that!
Can someone tell me where i can buy this plate at?
Looks like the exact one I got isn’t available anymore. But, I just updated the link in the video description to a different one!
@@CovertGarage thank you, hope that fixes my high idle problem
@@urisanchez5509 I sure hope so! Good luck!
Not sure what rear gearing you was talking about going to but on a dyno going from something like a 3.55 to a 4.10 the dyno will actually show LESS Hp..not more.
Planning on going with a 3.73. It’ll just change the power curves to give me more low end. Won’t actually gain any HP
The formula to calculate hp is literally torque x rpm. Gears let your car rev up faster, thus “increasing” power output.
@@angelgjr1999 only half right.. you make power sooner.. but its not a increase in power. It moves the power band. It can move to where you run out of steam too early and actually lose power.
@@TheModAddict Run out of power? I guess if you have a single speed car. I am always I. The power band in my 2003 Mustang GT thanks to the gears. Fastest I’ve gone was 145 mph…
@@angelgjr1999 yes..run out of power. Are you familiar what a power band is? Look at ANY dyno and you can see where a engine STOPS making power. I cant tell if you're messing with me or you're just that dense.
what lower intake are you running i saw that yours was painted and didn’t know if it was a pro comp or stock. i have an issue where my car idles at like 1250- 1500 after installing the pro comp lower plenum and i have to keep my iac unplugged to keep it at 850-950. for anyone that is reading this yes i have messed with the idle screw and even put the old throttle body on but im still having this issue
I have the stock throttle body and I have this issue, have you fixed it yet?
Restrictor plate is just a bandaid for unsolved issues.
Might be a bandaid indeed. Mines a new motor so new clue what the issue is. Could be a tuning deal
We charged your ac at our shop lets do a fun run with my Silverado
Oh that’s awesome!! Might have to do that!
Just reset adaptives