How to Butt Weld Sheet Metal for Rust Repair

Sometimes you might want to or need to butt weld sheet metal patch panels for rust repairs. This video shows two ways to do butt weld sheet metal for quality, long lasting repairs. Tools,
materials and Lakeside Merch below -
💥 Sheet Metal - 22 gauge cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel
💥 Welder - Miller Millermatic 90, 110v, 75/25 mix, .023" wire
💥 Settings - heat 2 of 4 - wire speed 1/3 of the way up (35)
💥 Fiber Resin Disk - benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
💥 Grinder - Harbor Freight - WARRIOR 10 Amp, 7 in. Variable-Speed Rotary Polisher/Sander
💥 Hammer - Martin Tools 158G general pick hammer
💥 Filler - Evercoat 156 Light Weight Body Filler
💥 Spreader - Flexible Silicone Spreaders from Sachson - www.amazon.com/SACHSON-Non-St... - Non-Stick Silicone Reusable Automotive Body Filler Spreaders, 2 Piece
💥 - Lakeside Merch - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
💥 - Lakeside Discord (Your Projects) - / discord
💥 - Lakeside Autobody - / @lakesideautobody
#autobodyrepair #autobodywork #autobodypaint
****************************************************************************************************

[@Avtovaz21057]

i have looked at many forums where people say their car are no filler, and an make zero filler work to them after.
I think your right mate, this is how its done, its not a magic trick, its just getting it done.

[@LakesideAutobody]

👍💯 - thanks for your input A - have a good weekend :)

[@freshbutplain1144]

It’s gotten to a point where I know your content works so I instantly like the video then comment before even watching..

[@LakesideAutobody]

👍💯 - Thanks for watching FBP and your comments. Have a good weekend :)

[@Pat-Van-Canada]

I didn't know that about creating a valley between the two. Thanks again Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for checking it out PVC :)

[@therealtpain90]

This guys tutorials are always on point, simple and easy to understand. Definitely underrated channel. Thankyou sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome TRP90 - thanks for watching and the support :)

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Great idea with the valley

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Stephen - thanks for watching too. Have a good weekend :)

[@pstreetgarage7304]

@@LakesideAutobody You too my friend

[@WingspeedGarage]

All rust repairs I do now (if I’m not drilling our spot welds and replace the whole panel) I’m using a pneumatic flange tool that forms an offset crimped edge for a no-bump overlay together with 3M panel bond. In my opinion unbeatable. No heat, completely sealed rust proofed joint and minimal/no bondo

[@LakesideAutobody]

I agree with you on that. You can't beat the water tight seam that glue offers. Sometimes it's harder to do but the seam is unbeatable like you say :)

[@franksgarage8551]

So in some cases i prefer to use my step flange tool, the step helps a little with warpage,and leaves more weld for grinding. But the flange can trap moisture.

[@LakesideAutobody]

👍

[@troyweatherford9874]

I like these little videos that explain things so well, thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Troy - I appreciate the support :)

[@RustyGlovebox]

Great job every time.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks RG - enjoy the weekend my friend :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

I always enjoy watching your welding videos Jerry 🤘🏾💯

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that UPK - thanks for watching as always. Good topic on your last vid my friend :)

[@yeayeasautoadventures]

great vid Jerry, have a great weekend sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

You too my friend - thanks for checking it out :)

[@RobertFredman-ld6kc]

Thanks again for the tips on working sheet metal

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Robert - thanks for checking it out :)

[@45AMT]

There's always great bodywork tips on this Channel. Thanks Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that 45 - have a great weekend and thanks for your input :)

[@robertrobert1971]

Nice tips as always thank you!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Robert :)

[@alandust2188]

GREAT TIP!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Alan - have a good weekend :)

[@richardstone5241]

Great information!
I learn something every time.
Is there a method of welding patch panels that you prefer best?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Richard. I like using a combination of lap and butt - it depends on the situation. If it's in an open area where the seam can easily be tapped down, I lap. If it's on rigid area like a rocker, pillar, sharp body line, I'll butt weld. I still always try to tap the seam down though - it's always good to have a buffer like filler between the seam and the finish.

[@richardstone5241]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you!

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

Great video of Jerry how can I get one of those spreader boards

[@LakesideAutobody]

brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-all/ols/categories/lakeside-autobody-apparel Thanks for watching Luis - hope you have a good weekend my friend 👍💯😊

[@jamesward5721]

I weld all day every day - I pretty much do very little else. I have 2 machines buzzing away beside me at all times - both run the same wire - in my case 1mm flux core.
The first machine is a 16amp supply multi-process machine that can really light up 1mm flux core - it has the power to bang that wire home. It runs at 65amps, 12.4v.
The second machine is a 13amp supply flux-core only machine that runs 1mm wire at 120 amps, 14v - which will weld tinfoil as it lacks the grunt to blow holes (which is what you want).
Having either one or the other wouldn't work - they are not interchangeable. They do different things. I grab the 2 torches according to what I am welding - neither will do what the other will. The 13amp machine will weld stuff the 16amp machine would turn to vapour & the 16amp machine will weld stuff so smoothly it looks like it was Tig welded - if the material can take the heat. A lot of material can't - which is where the 13 amp machine comes in - it will weld the tinfoil.
Same wire, hugely different outcomes - no one machine will do everything. IMO, it takes 2 to tango. One with power & one that can go low. The "Numbers" the settings are at mean very little - 65 amps on one, 120 amps on the other - yet the 65 amps are waay hotter than the 120 amps..
Everything gets filler/. How would you match the factory surface that has 5mm of filler on, otherwise?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I like your thinking. You make a lot of sense there - thanks for your input James. Have a good weekend :)

[@bradstaffotd4715]

Great video great information nice job keep up the good work how's the AMX coming along

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - the AMX is getting the engine put together. Got it back but installing the oil pan, pick up tube, gaskets, etc. I'll do one video on the whole process and start her up 😊 When I was young, I would do it much faster - now I read everything and make sure I'm not missing any steps. I got old 😞

[@bradstaffotd4715]

@@LakesideAutobody i know that feeling about getting old I don't do anything fast anymore

[@BT-ih6kr]

another infornmative video Jerry. is a complete welded seam necceassry or can the spot welds be covered with the waterproof filler (i think this exists)?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I actually rarely weld the seam solid and leave small spaces between the welds - this is the result - th-cam.com/video/idrLzsz2eLg/w-d-xo.html Like you said the fiberglass reinforced filler is a good solution :)

[@hickeyskustomresto]

👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks :)

[@BruceLyeg]

I wonder if beveling helps prevent warping

[@LakesideAutobody]

It might help a bit for sure Bruce - thanks for watching as always. Have a good weekend my friend :)

[@markhubanks3715]

Do you spray or coat the backside of your patches? Thank You!

[@LakesideAutobody]

If you can coat the back - great. If not, not a big deal. All you really need is drainage (make your own holes if needed) and this - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html