Main thing to keep in mind on this. Make sure you mark the location of the crimp on the clamp, prior to removing the old boot band. Other wise you will put the shaft out of balance. when you install the new band you want the crimp location to line up as close to the mark as possible. this will help maintain as much balance on the shaft as possible. it is also a good idea to put a couple of marks on the shaft and the pinions so the shaft goes back in as close as possible to it's original location. Vibrations suck and having that band cause issues is irritating. Speaking from past experience with other jeeps.
@@metalhalide4043 my jeep came without a driveshaft lol bought it partially dismantled how can you figure out which way the driveshaft is supposed to go
Thank you for the video. I feel confident I can make this repair now but for the love of god while you might appreciate the loud music it was very disruptive. I found myself continuously turning up and down the volume. But other then that it was great thanks for the video
@@ScamsGarage Will you please reply to me names of the tools you used that are specific for this job, like for the c-clip and the band for the end of the boot for examples? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! I had a shop tell me the front shaft needed replaced because it was "throwing grease" (they said). For one thing I don't know how they discovered it "throwing grease" because at the time they supposedly discovered it the motor was out of it. I told them not to replace the entire shaft, replace the boot or whatever seal is failing allowing the grease to leak. They replaced the entire shaft anyway. 4WD never worked in the truck since I had it due to an electrical issue. This proves I was right that the seal and boot could have been replaced. The shaft doesn't have grease in it nor does it have a seal either. The CV joint does. So even if it was "throwing grease" replacing the shaft didn't fix the problem. It definitely didn't fix the electrical issue I had it in for to be investigated. Going to court!!!! I hope you don't mind I might be using this video as evidence to prove their story is false that the entire shaft needed replaced.
Thanks for this video. The rebuild kits are due in tonight, looking forward to getting dirty. And the music rocks! And thanks for the comment-tips; warm the boot, line up the crimp, mark the shafts.
Hey there. Just replaced my transfer case, replaced the drive shaft and now it wobbles like crazy though certain the bolts are firmly back on and flush so I'm afraid to ask but, what do you mean mark the shafts??? IS it possible to replace it in the wrong setting? (12 o clock is now 3 o clock for example) and that's why I have this bad wobbling?
CV joints usually last long time unless the boot rips and grease gets spun out, its always good idea to inspect the whole underneath with flashlight every few months, lots of moving parts in SUV/trucks. I am still on the lifetime powertrain warranty with 2008 Jeep and guess I will get a new $500 front shaft being they are not OEM serviceable.
Fantastic VIDEO! I yook my car to the dealer to have it checked over for a AC compressor noise. The noise is slight. So they recommend me to change out the belt tensioner and belt. I went a head and did it myself. The AC is still very good they noise was a little less. Anyways they said one of my boots on the drive shaft waa torn they recommend me to replace it. May do it myself. Thanks so much....You the man. Rick on bro!!!
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander Quad II, there's a loud hum (hum being a small explanation) and it only happens when I accelerate or cruise, if I let off the gas it's totally quiet. There's no clunking, clicking or rattleing sound. I've replaced both axles and front hubs,,the noise certainly sounds like it's in the front, maybe the differential. Hoping you might know some about a jeep! Is there a bearing that's causing the trouble in my front carrier? By the way it rides and drives great. Thanks.
@@SSPDIVING It was the front drive shaft (proppeler shaft they call it) CV joint. Kit cost under 200 bucks for a good brand and was easy to remove and install.
Great video. Very clear and informative instructions. TBH, I think the replacement should have come with two gaskets, but the Dorman one I picked up also only came with one gasket so I guess it's 'correct'. Did yours sling grease everywhere after running it for a while? Not for nothin'... but I think the gasket is supposed to go on the transfer case side. The side with the end cap, not the side with the rubber sleeve. The stock one on my truck came with the gasket in the little groove in the bearing case on the transfer case side and no gasket on the smooth front diff side. No clue how the side without the gasket doesn't spray grease everywhere over time though. The diff side of the bearing case is smooth, so maybe clamping force from the bolts & the crescent shaped braces that go between the bolts?
Great video. After replacing my lefthand manifold (4.7), it is great to see something on the commander is relatively easy to take apart. Could you tell us how many miles was on the vehicle, and type of use?
Glad to see you enjoyed the video! At the time we had to replace the CV joint the Commander had roughly 150,000 miles on it. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
@@ScamsGarage it must be a 150,000 mile thing because mine just started doing it at exactly 150,000 miles. Mine is a different setup than yours, but it helps. Great video, thank you!
Awesome vid... question im beginning to hear the clicking coming from the bottom which i believe is the shaft cv joint... i have an 07 would it be the same part and repair process on it?
I have a 2007 jeep commander idk if the cv axle is out but, i try to put it in drive but makes a squeeling noise likes theres dirt in the rotor? But i put in low 4x4 drive it finally went but rrove it back slow ... could it be my cv axle is out ?
This will fail again sooner than spec. Tip: bearings "always" need to be "packed", not just surface. Grease in palm. Then roll bearing across palm of grease until grease comes out the back side of bearing.
If the grease is not packed in a ball or tapered bearing like you described you are correct it will fail early, because they have very high speed potential metal to metal contact points due to rotating and static members of the bearing. However being a CV joint this is not the same as an actual bearing that rotates on a race like a wheel bearing or similar. With a CV joint it simply moves the balls back and forth over the inner race slowly as it drive shaft rotates their are not any high speed metal to metal contact points like in a wheel bearing. Everything rotates together and the balls only move over the race a fraction of a inch as it spins, it doesn't have a fixed inner or outer race. This is why we use the tip of the grease tube to push grease into the joint from both sides. Then as soon as you move the joint back and forth the grease is worked into the joint.
I certainly cannot claim to be any kind of expert regarding these kinds of bearings. But every video I've watched on these and the MOP from Teraflex instructs to grease the bearing the save as a tapered roller bearing. I hope you don't have any issues with yours. Best
Hello I just had to replace the same part on my vehicle, i’m having trouble putting it back to my jeep grand Cherokee I got the front side back in and then the side that goes towards the transfer case (middle) seems to be too short and the screws aren’t reaching to the screw holes for me to fully put it back together, is there something I need to do to get a little more slack so that I could reach the screw holes? I only replaced the CV joint so it’s not like I accidentally got a shorter shaft any help would be appreciated
It has been awhile but if we remember correctly we put jack under the cross-member loosened the bolts and let it down a small amount. We remember it being a tight fit.
If your Jeep is lifted, use the Teraflex rezeppa high angle CV joint. It’ll last much longer than the stock replacement. The boot side is a bit larger and flared. It installs the same way as this video except for the mounting bolts are either hex or torx (can’t remember) to accommodate the larger boot flange. The 3.5” lift on my JK was the death sentence for the stock CV joint. Good video.
@@ScamsGarage I used an inexpensive rear CV joint for the front drive shaft from Rock Auto dot Com and it was an APW branded kit. it lasted about a 10-11 months, not sure how many miles. I just pulled the driveline today and the bearing cage had split in half! would you recommend the DoorMan kit over the same APW or the SKP kit?
Was super tough to watch. The commentary audio was very low and then I'd get blasted by the music. I ended watching a different video. Couldn't handle it.
I had a rough time getting the shaft back up and in. Tried back end in first buy it all looked too long. Remember to put the back end of the shaft way up higher than it normally rides and the front will slip right in. Drop back end in and bolt it all up.
Thanks for the feedback we are still working out some audio issues. We actually unbolted the cross-member on the transmission and lowered it down a bit with a jack to get the shaft in and out. It was easier than fighting it in the tight space.
The side that goes to the yoke of the transfer case if sandwiched between two solid flat metal surfaces that will keep it flat and straight and not leak. The other side has the bolt heads and straps that can allow the metal cover to warp so it would be more prone to leaks.
You are correct our original parts also did not have a gasket. I believe they included it to protect against irregular parts that may not be flat or get warped during installation. I would just keep a eye on it for leaks as the grease heats up. As for the hose clamp I would not recommend using one, I would us the correct clamps. A Hose clamp has more edges that can cut into the rubber, and you can over tighten the clamp easily; both can cause issues as the rubber ages. I would just keep a eye on it and see how it goes.
Can you cut down the blasting music? You have to turn up the volume to hear you, and then the music comes in blowing your ears out. Definitely wouldn't want to watch very many of your videos, if you can cut down the music volume.
Thanks Adam. We actually did clean the shaft with a wire brush and parts cleaner prior to assembly. The boot doesn't like to go over the splines on the shaft, because the splines are larger in diameter than the final resting spot of the boot. And the boot is also made smaller than the shaft diameter to make it secure and not bunch up when clamped. A few things that would make it a bit easier is some lubricant or warming the boot prior to installation so it would flex more. However it isn't that hard to get the boot on without this as long as you are careful.
You need to speak louder and turn the annoying music down in between. I have volume up to hear you then it blasts music waking up the whole house. Just omit the music altogether.
I think he means the frontward cv joint on the front driveshaft, I.e. the front driveshaft to front differential joint, the joint on the opposite end of the driveshaft you just worked on. Is it the same procedure just different looking longer boot?
Main thing to keep in mind on this. Make sure you mark the location of the crimp on the clamp, prior to removing the old boot band. Other wise you will put the shaft out of balance. when you install the new band you want the crimp location to line up as close to the mark as possible. this will help maintain as much balance on the shaft as possible. it is also a good idea to put a couple of marks on the shaft and the pinions so the shaft goes back in as close as possible to it's original location. Vibrations suck and having that band cause issues is irritating. Speaking from past experience with other jeeps.
That little clamp is not gonna make any difference with shaft balance, u gots too much anxiety amigo..
@@metalhalide4043 my jeep came without a driveshaft lol bought it partially dismantled how can you figure out which way the driveshaft is supposed to go
@@grrsanjose larger end with pleated boot goes to axle shaft other end to transfer case.
@@metalhalide4043 it's absolutely enough to unbalance it dipshit!
Thank you for the video. I feel confident I can make this repair now but for the love of god while you might appreciate the loud music it was very disruptive. I found myself continuously turning up and down the volume. But other then that it was great thanks for the video
Thanks glad it helped out!
@@ScamsGarage Will you please reply to me names of the tools you used that are specific for this job, like for the c-clip and the band for the end of the boot for examples? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! I had a shop tell me the front shaft needed replaced because it was "throwing grease" (they said). For one thing I don't know how they discovered it "throwing grease" because at the time they supposedly discovered it the motor was out of it. I told them not to replace the entire shaft, replace the boot or whatever seal is failing allowing the grease to leak. They replaced the entire shaft anyway. 4WD never worked in the truck since I had it due to an electrical issue. This proves I was right that the seal and boot could have been replaced.
The shaft doesn't have grease in it nor does it have a seal either. The CV joint does. So even if it was "throwing grease" replacing the shaft didn't fix the problem. It definitely didn't fix the electrical issue I had it in for to be investigated. Going to court!!!! I hope you don't mind I might be using this video as evidence to prove their story is false that the entire shaft needed replaced.
Glad the video helped out!
Man you just saved me a crazy bill from my local garage. And I can replace some other things while this is out. Thanks a bunch bro
Richard Bergagnin Your welcome. Glad we could help. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. The rebuild kits are due in tonight, looking forward to getting dirty. And the music rocks! And thanks for the comment-tips; warm the boot, line up the crimp, mark the shafts.
Thanks for watching! Glad to here you liked the music! Like and subscribe for more!
Hey there. Just replaced my transfer case, replaced the drive shaft and now it wobbles like crazy though certain the bolts are firmly back on and flush so I'm afraid to ask but, what do you mean mark the shafts??? IS it possible to replace it in the wrong setting? (12 o clock is now 3 o clock for example) and that's why I have this bad wobbling?
CV joints usually last long time unless the boot rips and grease gets spun out, its always good idea to inspect the whole underneath with flashlight every few months, lots of moving parts in SUV/trucks. I am still on the lifetime powertrain warranty with 2008 Jeep and guess I will get a new $500 front shaft being they are not OEM serviceable.
I have a slight vibration and I'm thinking this shaft is the culprit. Music is much louder than your audio. Thanks
Unfortunately we did notice that after uploading to it TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
Soak the rubber boot in a cup of hot water for a couple of minutes prior to fitting. It makes fitting way easier.
Great tip, thanks for the feedback. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
Just put it on there like a man and curse loud until its on.
Fantastic VIDEO! I yook my car to the dealer to have it checked over for a AC compressor noise. The noise is slight. So they recommend me to change out the belt tensioner and belt. I went a head and did it myself. The AC is still very good they noise was a little less. Anyways they said one of my boots on the drive shaft waa torn they recommend me to replace it. May do it myself. Thanks so much....You the man. Rick on bro!!!
Glad it helped
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander Quad II, there's a loud hum (hum being a small explanation) and it only happens when I accelerate or cruise, if I let off the gas it's totally quiet. There's no clunking, clicking or rattleing sound. I've replaced both axles and front hubs,,the noise certainly sounds like it's in the front, maybe the differential. Hoping you might know some about a jeep! Is there a bearing that's causing the trouble in my front carrier? By the way it rides and drives great. Thanks.
Did you find the problem? Having similar issue with my new commander
@@SSPDIVING It was the front drive shaft (proppeler shaft they call it) CV joint. Kit cost under 200 bucks for a good brand and was easy to remove and install.
Great video. Very clear and informative instructions.
TBH, I think the replacement should have come with two gaskets, but the Dorman one I picked up also only came with one gasket so I guess it's 'correct'. Did yours sling grease everywhere after running it for a while?
Not for nothin'... but I think the gasket is supposed to go on the transfer case side. The side with the end cap, not the side with the rubber sleeve. The stock one on my truck came with the gasket in the little groove in the bearing case on the transfer case side and no gasket on the smooth front diff side. No clue how the side without the gasket doesn't spray grease everywhere over time though. The diff side of the bearing case is smooth, so maybe clamping force from the bolts & the crescent shaped braces that go between the bolts?
Great video. After replacing my lefthand manifold (4.7), it is great to see something on the commander is relatively easy to take apart. Could you tell us how many miles was on the vehicle, and type of use?
Glad to see you enjoyed the video! At the time we had to replace the CV joint the Commander had roughly 150,000 miles on it. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
@@ScamsGarage it must be a 150,000 mile thing because mine just started doing it at exactly 150,000 miles. Mine is a different setup than yours, but it helps. Great video, thank you!
Awesome vid... question im beginning to hear the clicking coming from the bottom which i believe is the shaft cv joint... i have an 07 would it be the same part and repair process on it?
The process should basically the same. I would check to make sure that the part is the same though. Thanks for watching! Like and subscribe for more!
i got another jeep that makes vibrating noise on acceleration, i could tell the rubber joint is lose could that be the problem?
It would be hard to say yes or no. Any slack in mounts can always be a cause for vibration and cause excess wear on other parts.
I have a 09 jeep liberty.same set up thanks for the help and info.now i know whats growling under their when on uneven terrain.
Glad we could help.
Thanks for the step by step. I like the music screw these haters!
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the positive feed back! Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
I have a 2007 jeep commander idk if the cv axle is out but, i try to put it in drive but makes a squeeling noise likes theres dirt in the rotor? But i put in low 4x4 drive it finally went but rrove it back slow ... could it be my cv axle is out ?
Great video, saved me from buying a whole shaft.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
I got a Ford explore sport trac 2010 I’d like to know if you can use the front drive shaft repair kit with the rear drive shaft too repair it too?
I would recommend rock auto to look up your needed parts.
What to do to remove Front driveshaft for good and stop computer from reading 4x4 code
I would not recommend it on these Jeeps.
This will fail again sooner than spec. Tip: bearings "always" need to be "packed", not just surface. Grease in palm. Then roll bearing across palm of grease until grease comes out the back side of bearing.
If the grease is not packed in a ball or tapered bearing like you described you are correct it will fail early, because they have very high speed potential metal to metal contact points due to rotating and static members of the bearing. However being a CV joint this is not the same as an actual bearing that rotates on a race like a wheel bearing or similar. With a CV joint it simply moves the balls back and forth over the inner race slowly as it drive shaft rotates their are not any high speed metal to metal contact points like in a wheel bearing. Everything rotates together and the balls only move over the race a fraction of a inch as it spins, it doesn't have a fixed inner or outer race. This is why we use the tip of the grease tube to push grease into the joint from both sides. Then as soon as you move the joint back and forth the grease is worked into the joint.
I certainly cannot claim to be any kind of expert regarding these kinds of bearings. But every video I've watched on these and the MOP from Teraflex instructs to grease the bearing the save as a tapered roller bearing. I hope you don't have any issues with yours. Best
Hello I just had to replace the same part on my vehicle, i’m having trouble putting it back to my jeep grand Cherokee I got the front side back in and then the side that goes towards the transfer case (middle) seems to be too short and the screws aren’t reaching to the screw holes for me to fully put it back together, is there something I need to do to get a little more slack so that I could reach the screw holes? I only replaced the CV joint so it’s not like I accidentally got a shorter shaft any help would be appreciated
How did you get the drive shaft out from underneath your commander?
It has been awhile but if we remember correctly we put jack under the cross-member loosened the bolts and let it down a small amount. We remember it being a tight fit.
Well done Sir👍🏻👍🏻. Thanks for documenting so well. Reality helped me get my girlfriends done. Power to the people.
Thank you for watching! Glad we were able to help out!
How well has this part held up? I have the same issue on my jeep. Thanks for the video
We put about 15,000 miles on it after the repair and had no issues at all. I would not hesitate to make the repair and save the money.
If your Jeep is lifted, use the Teraflex rezeppa high angle CV joint. It’ll last much longer than the stock replacement. The boot side is a bit larger and flared. It installs the same way as this video except for the mounting bolts are either hex or torx (can’t remember) to accommodate the larger boot flange. The 3.5” lift on my JK was the death sentence for the stock CV joint.
Good video.
Thanks that's also great info for anyone looking to do the repair. Ours is just stock height so no issues for us.Thanks for watching.
@@gregbisesi9966 do you know if the terra flex will fit a 07 wk as well
@@ScamsGarage I used an inexpensive rear CV joint for the front drive shaft from Rock Auto dot Com and it was an APW branded kit. it lasted about a 10-11 months, not sure how many miles. I just pulled the driveline today and the bearing cage had split in half!
would you recommend the DoorMan kit over the same APW or the SKP kit?
THANK YOU SIR !!!!!! SAVED ME A LOTTA $$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!
Thank you for watching! Please
like and subscribe!
Hi, what's the name of the tool to tighten the snap ring??
The tool we used is CV boot clamp pliers. Here is a link to one on Amazon- amzn.to/2IH3JPo
Snap ring pliers/tool
If I wanted to here music I would turn on the radio!
We are always working on our videos. Thanks for watching
Was super tough to watch. The commentary audio was very low and then I'd get blasted by the music. I ended watching a different video. Couldn't handle it.
I could not finish video because I got tired of turning the sound up and down.
Why does my driveshaft have an extra boot on it. I can pull the end of it out where you put the cv joint on it.
Thanks, great explaining step by step.
No problem. Thank for Watching!
Great information! Working on same on a Jeep Liberty. One suggestion ? Lose the music!
jdbeck8 looks the same. I have do this Christmas night for my wife's 06 Jeep liberty
I had a rough time getting the shaft back up and in. Tried back end in first buy it all looked too long. Remember to put the back end of the shaft way up higher than it normally rides and the front will slip right in. Drop back end in and bolt it all up.
Thanks for the feedback we are still working out some audio issues.
We actually unbolted the cross-member on the transmission and lowered it down a bit with a jack to get the shaft in and out. It was easier than fighting it in the tight space.
Thanks man, I can do mine now!
Why is there only 1 gasket, and why does it go on the side that already has a rubber boot?
The side that goes to the yoke of the transfer case if sandwiched between two solid flat metal surfaces that will keep it flat and straight and not leak. The other side has the bolt heads and straps that can allow the metal cover to warp so it would be more prone to leaks.
HobbyGuyGarage I didnt install gaskets ,I didn't see any on old one and I used a hose clamp you think ill be ok
You are correct our original parts also did not have a gasket. I believe they included it to protect against irregular parts that may not be flat or get warped during installation. I would just keep a eye on it for leaks as the grease heats up. As for the hose clamp I would not recommend using one, I would us the correct clamps. A Hose clamp has more edges that can cut into the rubber, and you can over tighten the clamp easily; both can cause issues as the rubber ages. I would just keep a eye on it and see how it goes.
thank u i feel relieved@!!!!!
Thank you for watching!!
Changed mine out and drove around for about 15 minutes and the CV joint got really hot. Us that normal?
It can be warm but if it is excessively hotter than various components around it then you may have something wrong.
Can you cut down the blasting music? You have to turn up the volume to hear you, and then the music comes in blowing your ears out. Definitely wouldn't want to watch very many of your videos, if you can cut down the music volume.
Rock on brother. Soryy for the mispell
Thanks good video doing mine tomarow thanks agen
Thanks for watching! Like and subscribe for more!
How long it take to do
It took us a couple of hours to finish ours. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
Scams Garage thanks
I guess the boot should be looked at regularly for tears?
Keep an eye on it regularly for tears since they can cause the grease to leak out.
Word of advice we can barely barely hear you so i have the volume all the way up the you pay that annoying music louder then you speak
Yeah we are always working on our video quality. Thanks for the feedback
Good video but I would have rather listened to you swinging that hammer than listen to that music. Thumbs up at 137
Oh my god I put mine on backwards and it fell apart.
Interesting vid but get rid of the music or at least get the audio levels figured out.
Thank you for watching! We are working on our audio. Thanks for the feedback!
you forgot to put the second gasket on.
Al 100%
You could have cleaned up the shaft a bit with a wire brush or at least a rag and you wouldn't have had such a hard time getting the new boot on
Thanks Adam. We actually did clean the shaft with a wire brush and parts cleaner prior to assembly. The boot doesn't like to go over the splines on the shaft, because the splines are larger in diameter than the final resting spot of the boot. And the boot is also made smaller than the shaft diameter to make it secure and not bunch up when clamped. A few things that would make it a bit easier is some lubricant or warming the boot prior to installation so it would flex more. However it isn't that hard to get the boot on without this as long as you are careful.
what about those horseshoe type plates?
The horseshoe shaped plates go on the bolts to reduce deformation of the dust cover.
You need to speak louder and turn the annoying music down in between. I have volume up to hear you then it blasts music waking up the whole house. Just omit the music altogether.
Joe Danko thank you for your criticism. We are still working out all of the volume problems. Thanks for watching
Very informative, Looks somewhat difficult to repair mine without a garage to work in. Thanks
A garage is nice but is not need for this repair. Thank you for watching
Yeah the volume of the music was a bit jarring but solid video otherwise. Thanks for uploading.
Sorry about the music, we are still working out all of our audio bugs. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
Please no music in vids
Music is loud eritating
Thanks for the feedback.
good info and presentation ... could do without the music!!
We are still trying to figure out all of the audio in our videos for the best quality. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
Ditch the soundtrack
Just re-edit it without the goddamn music and re-posted do yourself a favor
Loose the music
Thanks for the feedback
And other side, front...
I'm assuming you are asking about the cv shafts to the wheels. We have never done ours. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!
I think he means the frontward cv joint on the front driveshaft, I.e. the front driveshaft to front differential joint, the joint on the opposite end of the driveshaft you just worked on. Is it the same procedure just different looking longer boot?
It would have been a better video without that loud music
Appreciate the feedback. We are always working to make our videos better. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe!