Because of you I have the guts to do the stringers and floor on my 1972 23"ft ChristCraft lancer all the floors had rot I just wanted to thank you for great helpful videos I love all the videos you posted your a cool guy thank you so much
Great looking deck, as far as seat support you can pl a couple pieces if scrap plywood together and glass it in on the underside or use 2x4 pieces so it would be solid and stainless screw up to the deck underside. Just a thought.
Plywood bows because of uneven drying. When you store your plywood, be sure to store it in such a way as to allow air all around it. This applies to all wood. This should minimize the warping and bowing. Solid wood is less predictable but this should work for plywood in general.
I have this exact same boat that I am restoring as well! I am using your videos as a step by step guide! Did you use RedGard on the stringers or under the deck anywhere before closing it up?
You shouldn't have the deck joints above the bulkheads the deck will flex between the bulk heads when you walk on it and pull the joints apart causing the fiber glass to crack at the joint allowing water to enter You should have the joints halfway between the bulk heads and joined with but blocks made from equal thickness ply as the deck material then the joint will flex and not crack the glass
I think adding the drain holes is a mistake. One section takes on water, they all take on water. Addding them with a plug to seal them would be great, but without the ability to seal them until you need them just defeats any isolation engineering built into the boat.
Stephen VanDyke I would never go to this length and use plywood of any sort. Marine grade will still rot unless meticulously mantained and stored. Get composite. It is a bit more expensive, but think about the time and labor you spend on the project and the price seems justifiable. Never rots, cracks, molds or mildews. Do it right the first time. Just my opinion
Because of you I have the guts to do the stringers and floor on my 1972 23"ft ChristCraft lancer all the floors had rot I just wanted to thank you for great helpful videos I love all the videos you posted your a cool guy thank you so much
starting a project like this soon...i hope i can do it as well as you did! been watching your videos for a couple years now. thank you for them!!
Very well done.I love watching these videos
Glad you enjoyed them
Great looking deck, as far as seat support you can pl a couple pieces if scrap plywood together and glass it in on the underside or use 2x4 pieces so it would be solid and stainless screw up to the deck underside. Just a thought.
10:10 Coors Light!!!
Question? what lumber did you use for the floors and stringers? PT? or just reg lumber? and if I use PT will the resin stick to it?
Greetings from Latvia. I also repair the boat and the engine 5.7. Iinteresting see your work.
Theres boats in latvia?
what kind of wood did you use for the cleets?
@Slick1G3 Pl Premium, and then thickened resin. However, it is common practice to use PL to bed stringers
Nice work...
yeah great hobby,cant wait to get me a boat.
@WANTENDER1
Yes it is. I would not recommend using it. I was just trying something out.
What thickness of plywood is used?
I thought it was a good idea for the flex factor. Was it a pain to apply?
Plywood bows because of uneven drying. When you store your plywood, be sure to store it in such a way as to allow air all around it. This applies to all wood. This should minimize the warping and bowing. Solid wood is less predictable but this should work for plywood in general.
Hey can u tell me what the name of the stuff u call peanut butter is ?
@WANTENDER1
It was not a pain, but waaaaay over kill. It is 40 dollars for two quarts. So that is just too high.
I have this exact same boat that I am restoring as well! I am using your videos as a step by step guide! Did you use RedGard on the stringers or under the deck anywhere before closing it up?
The redgaurd was overkill. Just seal them up with resin and you are good.
is that red guard a rubber type paint?
You shouldn't have the deck joints above the bulkheads the deck will flex between the bulk heads when you walk on it and pull the joints apart causing the fiber glass to crack at the joint allowing water to enter
You should have the joints halfway between the bulk heads and joined with but blocks made from equal thickness ply as the deck material then the joint will flex and not crack the glass
I thought it was a good idea. Did it not apply very good?
How much did this whole project cost?
I think adding the drain holes is a mistake. One section takes on water, they all take on water. Addding them with a plug to seal them would be great, but without the ability to seal them until you need them just defeats any isolation engineering built into the boat.
AAFA434 I agree. that's why I ended up sealing all compartments
What are the deck cleats for?
Extra meat for the deck to grab ahold of
What kind of plywood did u use and what is peanut butter
Exterior grade plywood. Peanut butter is resin which is reinforced with chopped fiberglass.
Stephen VanDyke I would never go to this length and use plywood of any sort. Marine grade will still rot unless meticulously mantained and stored. Get composite. It is a bit more expensive, but think about the time and labor you spend on the project and the price seems justifiable. Never rots, cracks, molds or mildews. Do it right the first time. Just my opinion
foam big mistake keep well away from foam just leave as void space is best way
dido to mylast comment