Aero is dead, The Future is Low Inertia... Elitewheels G45 Aero Gravel Wheels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- The outstanding feature of these wheels is their low inertia, which results in noticeable acceleration. They are well-made and a decent choice. The market for high-quality wheels from the Far East is well-established, and this gravel entry meets all the requirements.
Recent trends have highlighted aerodynamic superiority as the main differentiating factor between wheels. However, this is now irrelevant as most wheel rim profiles have converged towards a single standard, which is a variant of the NACA 00 Series.
An aero benchmark is essentially a 50 - 65mm deep rim with a minimal number of Carbon aerodynamic spokes.
The differentiating factors now are the inertia and the quality of the hubs.
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I'm not sure what TH-cam is doing but I've had a load of reports of comments being deleted, often within seconds of posting. For what it's worth, I'm not deleting them and as far as i can tell they aren't offensive so i don't know what is going on.
The censors must not be banging their head dressers enough!
I've been unable to post anything if I include brand names, sellers or anything of that nature. Have been trying to converse about hubs lately in a few videos and it seems I can re-post if I remove all brand names, prices and sellers, but then it's an incredibly vague comment. Glad to see you are aware.
Censortube at its best
@@lucideuphoria7092 that does seem to ring true because others have said similar things when they put in ally xpress
This has been going on for a while. The thought police at youtube have been working hard on programs to aggressively delete wrong-think.
It's OurTube, comrade.
Zipp 353 rim is 285g. How much is that rim weight? +it is wider at 25mm Inner
I mean 1100USD for a set of these elite drive 50 at 1300 grams vs 4200USD for a set of 353 which are 1255 grams.
1300
We are talking about interia-rim weight not wheel weight
Shame no 650B option in that depth for us short ar$es...
With tires like that you must have been in east germany
Hey Alexa, make "Hello Hambini Fans!" My doorbell ringer, and put it on repeat.
Or your phone ringtone. (insert evil grin here)
60psi? i don't really do gravel but that sounds wayyy too high. i'm the same weight with the same tire size and the recommended pressure was under 30 iirc
Yeah seems too much
Agreed, I run 700x40C tires at 2 bar / 30 psi, about 80kg. This is with non-tubeless tires run tubeless, but when I ran tubes for a while, I had issues if I dropped below 40 psi. The tire sidewall lists 50-85 psi. My rides are primarily on pavement, to and from the trails.
I'm 90kg and ride my 42mm gravel tires at 28psi. 60 is nuts😂
Seems like I always run at least 20 psi lower than whatever the side of the tire says, and it's plenty, and I'm 72 kg.
I weigh 62 and run about 28psi on 40mm run tubless. But 60 is what I'd run 28s at tubed..
26 is dead, aero is dead, 27,5 is dead blablabla. Cycling industry wants your money.
I'll never get deep wheels again, I've always found shallower wheels faster simply because they're lighter rims (low inertia). However, these at 45mm deep are very light at 1300g! BUT, they have carbon spokes, only 20 spokes, ceramic bearings (they're lighter) and a fancy machined out freehub body, so I would question if the rims themselves are actually much lighter than others.
The rims sans spokes and hubs are 415g each. 45mm deep, internal 24mm, external 31mm
Hambini I’d love to see you give UberBike’s “ceramic” BB a good reaming… utter sh*** that was a rust bucket after not even 250 miles
have you got a link. I need a conveyor belt of stuff to ream.
@@Hambini my uberbike ceramic BB is still going strong after at least a years riding.
Interesting was going to buy one of these for my bike, are the seals not
Nice job. The reduction in Rotational Inertia (Moment of Inertia) of your wheel also received a nice contribution from your RideNow TPU inner tubes. Their mass is significantly lower than a traditional butyl or latex inner tube. Because that mass savings occurs at the largest radius location of the wheel your choice of inner tubes also deserves a round of applause with regard to lowering rotational inertia. 👏👏👏
I have a spreadsheet that lets you see the impact of reduced wheel weight due to inertia in various situations and it’s basically nothing. not something you have to worry about. id sooner want an aero valve on the wheel.
I have the road version of the G45 (Drive 45D) which is a non-catalogue spec. I fully agree that this rim profile has real low inertia characteristics especially from fully stopped situations. They are really responsive and are the best profile for roads that have a mix of flats and rolling climbs. I love riding with them to my hairdresser these days 😆
Elite Drive G45 or 9Velo Gravel Disc GV 2.0 ??
Which one shall I choose?
It's just nice to ride wheels that spins up very quickly, the nimble ride feel makes it worth it beyond the mathematical watt savings.
they feel like they 'spin up quickly' and that's nice. Though the maths will tell you otherwise, there's almost no difference.
@@timdavid9750 I've went up steep switchbacks on low profile rims and 50mm rims and definitely prefer the former. I don't care what the math says because I'm not racing and chasing watt gains. I like to ride something that gives me joy and that's a bike that feels nimble and reactive to my input.
@@happywolfie1980 I have a couple of wheelsets (low rim height in both of them, like 25 and 35mm), and a few tyres (28 to 37mm), which I like to swap around depending on the occasion, like so many womens' shoes. I have noticed this difference weight makes, rather than size/rim profile.
And while I do notice some differences in speed, mainly due to the tyre compound, the only big differences I've ever felt while riding are:
- Handling, it's crazy how much the wheel inertia changes the responsiveness of the bike.
- Acceleration from stop (city commuters appreciate this).
@@happywolfie1980 yep, if it feels better it makes you want to ride more
Have these wheels for a few months now. Love them. Thanks for the review.
"If you look closely". Ha, no need for that, can see the fingerprints from the moon..
One of a tiny few trusted technical reviewers. People now have a choice of relatively good value chinese brands to choose from whilst knowing they won't be disappointed. Thanks.
STOP TOUCHING THE ROTORRRRRRRERRRREERRRRERRRRRRRRRRRRRR😂
I winced when you touched that rotor 😂😂😂
you had me at "...3 tenths of fuck all, you pedantic bastards!"
You should do a video on bearing maintenance from an informed engineering perspective, I find it hard to believe all if these 'bike cleaning products' such as muc off's bike cleaner etc. dont strip grease, i genuinely believe its all marketing. I've found that theres so many conflicting arguments on how to maintain bearings/your bike so it would be interesting to find out your unfilitered perspective.
Bike clearers and degreasers strip grease, just assume they do anyway to be safe. Clean and maintain and sealed bearings should be good.
they tend to dissolve grease so if you use them, they need to have the grease replenished. the other issue is they are full of salt.
@@Hambini they’ll be off the shelves for me then, cheers for the reply. I do wanna know what should be done with bearings though, grease on the outside of them/not (suspension linkage for example) because of the grinding paste effect. I’m guessing maintenance is just some hot water and a sponge. Was literally watching your vid on campag bb’s as you replied, great timing haha.
Thoughts on running these on a road bike with a 28 or 30c road tire?
No issues whatsoever
I would think that, at your approx weight, you could run those tires at 3 bar / 40psi and enjoy better ride quality.
Needs to be an AUDIO WARNING at the beginning of each video
Thumbs down for shouting bye 😮
Seems like there's a lot of confusion in the comments regarding the performance implications of inertia (rotational or otherwise)- might be worth doing a video on?
The wheelset choice of low inertia vs aerodynamics is skewed for off road wheelsets vs road racing wheelsets. Speeds are generally lower and the larger, knobby tyres give the middle finger to a lot of the aerodynamic rim benefits before the air stream even hits them. For gravel bikes with suspension (or rigid being ridden out of the saddle with bent knees and elbows), Lighter wheels and frames reduce unsprung weight which makes for a smoother and more efficient ride. When you're accelerating suddenly and the frame bends instead of the bike moving forward immediately it is inertia that is stopping you (along with other forms of resistance, though these are not as relevant in that moment). Lowering your system's inertia helps the bike to zing forward- from a "feel perspective" it could be described as feeling stiffer.
As hambini has stated- if you go out on the bike and test wheelsets back to back the difference in feeling is huge. However just because it feels big doesn't mean that it actually is big in terms of watts saved, seconds across the line etc.
In the vast majority of road racing contexts this difference I don't believe this difference is significant, with crit racing and fixed gear street racing (where there is a metabolic cost associated with both accelerating & decelerating both of which happen frequently through big ratios) being notable exceptions.
Truly though the big advantage of lower inertia is for those who aren't racing (against the clock, their strava or others) and who have lower overall power levels. These riders often find accelerating (at the lights, out of turns, on singletrack) and riding up hills the most intense and negative parts of a given ride. Lower inertia and lower weight help to reduce the actual and perceived difficulty of the ride and can help them feel more powerful on the bike- an enjoyable feeling I'm sure we can all relate to.
Oh this is soo dull bye
Nice review and points to ponder as always.
- I'm not convinced this wheel is different enough in mass distribution to be called "low inertia". Sounds like marketing speak. (Surprised Hambini would fall for it.) Yes - we've all known rotating mass adds inertia to wheels. That's why for a century wheels have been getting lighter.
- Tubed or not is a choice. Back in the day I commuted on tubes and would be hard pressed to give up their easy patchability. But after several years, several 500km+ bikepacking trips, two Unbound 200s (320km on flint rock), two BWRs, and countless local endurance gravel races, I'm no longer swayed by the "in the middle of nowhere" argument. Tubed or tubeless, carry a spare tube (and maybe old tire bits for sidewall slashes) if you worry about puncturing ITMoN. (Where is that in 2024 btw? lol) Tubeless adds self-sealing for the most frequent punctures. With all that riding I've never punctured a tubeless that didn't self-seal. Likely this is mainly due to the low pressures tubeless allows. (fwiw I run iRC tires and weigh 65kg.)
2. Those Elites look nice but I'm not into gloss coatings on a gravel wheel. As noted - it's asking for chips and dings.
3. The inner width is 24mm which is good but rolling resistance being king these days and all else equal - I'm still looking at Enve SES 4.5s for my next set.
Indeed, I also believe "low rotational inertia" is mainly marketing blabla, just to confuse people. Unless they mean that the wheels are just plain light(er), those have typically also less rotational inertia. But just because they are lighter, not because they have their weight more centralized. Lighter wheels have (much) more advantages than just having lower rotational inertia.
What are you thinking of the zipp303 xplr. I always think deep wheels that are much slimmer than the tire aren‘t really good for aero. You could just make a shallow even lighter one.
If 9 Velo or Elite etc. would make a deepish (45 to 50mm) gravel wheel with a outer width of 40mm i would really buy it. Now i think i have to wait untill the chineses brands hop on this.
60psi will be much too high for anything- even for an indoor wooden track with that setup. You're compromising your rolling resistance and comfort. Try 25psi or look at the Silca tyre pressure calculator.
silca calculator said 28psi. I tried it at 35psi and the tyre came off the rim.
Brake pads are way too aggressive 😅
Quick acceleration also means quick deceleration. It's part of that whole low rotational inertia thing. Heavier wheels are great if you want to travel long distances on flat, or mostly, flat wheels. That's why I have Aerospoke wheels on my touring bike, plus no spokes to break.
I still don't see a case for heavier rims. Appreciate your writing, though . 😁
@@Fetherko heavier wheels will be used when you want to maintain a high inertia (prevent deceleration).
Very useful on track for example or on a TT bike
I’m grinning to myself whilst watching this video. Several year ago when everyone seamed to by swapping out their conventional wheels for aero wheels, I did the opposite. I didn’t have a aero bike so one less reason to go aero so I purchased some DT Swiss R21 Dicut wheels at 13000g ish. They changed the ride quality for the better with fast acceleration and lightened up an already light bike. This is particularly beneficial for large riders like me who don’t give a shit about Stava times.
Yeh the aero brigade had better looking faster on the flat bikes, but I had the most fun and my climbing improved overnight.
The moral is, don’t be a 🐑
Low inertia really is a thing; you almost feel like the wheels are pulling you downhill on a descent. The kicker is the front of the bike feels very unsafe in gusty winds.
In the meantime, I also checked the website of the manufacturer. At no place I could find any claim about their wheel construction focusing on low rotational inertia. Clearly, they do advertise their rather exceptional light weight, which in itself does result in lower energy take up to accelerate them both linearly and rotationally. Which is great! But claiming that these wheels excel in the lower rotational inertia (at least when comparing them to other wheels of equal weight) seems grossly exaggerated, and probably not even correct. In fact, most wheelsets of comparable lightweight will rather have a lower rim profile to bring the weight down, leading (probably) to even lower rim weight, and therefore leading to lower rotational inertia compared to these wheels (for the same overall wheel weight). OTOH, these wheels will be more aero (for what that is worth at typical modest gravel speeds), which is probably more beneficial than any claim on their exceptional rotational inertia.
When you eff up any engineering competence with stupid tire pressure decisions based on sidewall stamping says a lot about your lack of general bicycling knowledge!
Why are tires getting wider for both gravel and road and pressures getting lower? Because actual research has proven it to be faster!
Actually it hasn't, if you are on a smooth surface then higher pressure has less rolling resistance
I would also add, I personally prefer higher tyre pressure, low pressure mattress the handling feel a bit squishy.
Check the silca pressure calculator. It's based on empirical testing. You'd land closer to 30psi than 60 I suspect
I ordered their bog standard carbon gravel wheels with OEM hubs,hav their rim brake carbon wheels same set up 4 years ago , brilliant wheels.and bought 88 front and full disk for TT setup.thats how good their stuff is.
I forgot to turn my headphone volume down for the into lol
Anyone from Alaska Airlines call you recently? Something bolts...
They should bring out a brand of car wheels and call it "Ride"
The lightness of the rim, which is the rotating mass gives less inertia. Spins up faster for less effort and had less gyroscopic effect.
Hambini have you done berd spokes vs metal spokes? Maybe also carbon, I'm curious power difference at same speed between them on road (rim and hub kept the same)
60 psi into 45c tyres... I didn't know you were a fellow BDSM practitioner.
Please do tell us more about it
For real aero gravel wheels youd need like 80mm depth absolute minimum, 120+ more normally. So it doesnt make sense and you might as well go light instead
Unlike the rest of us, Hambini's skin oil actually enhances braking performance.
Can we have a review of Bitex Hubs and another HUNT reaming!! Thanks.
Very informative, helps in improving riding performance.
I've been using these with 42mm Pathfinder Pro tires and have had a good experience so far. They make my gravel bike feel more like a road bike especially compared to the other wheelset I have for the bike (45mm Maxxis Rambler with dt swiss gr1600 alloy wheels)
i love your nyc videos hahahah
@@Littleweenaman love you!
Another good review thanks. Would it be possible to include a bit about spares availability and how the communication with the supplier went. What is the back up if there is an issue or when I need a new free hub. Thanks
Low rotating mass - always a good idea.
Edit: except maybe in a flywheel...
or when trying to cover long distances on flatter terrain
@@asquare9316isn't that only the case if stop starting a lot, or braking for corners?
Another good reaming with stunning results. Drive it deep, drive it hard for those wheels, luvin the wheel testing👍👍👍👍👍
This guy is a bike engineer and puts 60psi in 45mm gravel tires? Wild ..... WAY TO MUCH PRESSURE ...
sidewall on these tyres says recommended pressure 60psi and it says max pressure 80 psi.
04:53 No it doesn't @@Hambini
@@Hambini 60 psi is going to feel like you are riding on rocks for tires. If you would like the most comfort, and least rolling resistance for your set up, I would encourage you to enter your details into the free tire pressure calculator by Silca. You mentioned you were a 75 kg, so I went ahead and did it for you. They suggest 35 psi in the rear and 33.5 psi in the front. Thanks for everything you do. Keep up the good work. I really hope you change your mind about how much air you’re putting in there so you can be getting all the benefits of your equipment.
The pressure on the sidewall has nothing to do with comfort or performance. It is based on safety regulations.
@@melesmelee Correct me if I'm wrong, it says recommended pressure 35psi to 60psi?? further around on the rim and I think it may have been on the box that the max working pressure was 80psi.
Ha! Here I am working on a 20kg solid aluminum disc wheel for my next hour record attempt 😂
Satisfying to discover that my Salter kitchen scales are endorsed by Hambini
Did you receive some specially chosen wheels for you review to get the best wheels they had?
Regarding warped rotors, I've never warped a straight stainless rotor, even in bike park riding where I've had then turn blue from heat.
Maybe worth trying some non-Shimano rotors that don't do the steel-alu-steel sandwich? They're likely to be less expensive if do do keep having to replace them too.
5:49 I say the same thing on a daily basis at work 😄
don't lie - you are touching the rotor to trigger people right?
it worked xD
The only bad thing I found with my 50v Drive is that I can't get the spokes to be parallel when I true them. 😢
Any advice would be appreciated 👍🏼!
Pliers
Aero is not dead. Nothing looks better then huge rims :).
Tell that to your hairdresser 😁
60 psi! Holy hail that tells me you aren’t riding on any real gravel
I absolutely love the finish on these.
They accelerate really well... oké but do they also hold their speed well?
No, they decelerate quickly since deceleration is just negative acceleration. Heavy wheels hold speed well once they are up to speed.
@@asquare9316 you could never write for a cycling magazine....
@@henkdevrjes9640 As if I would ever want to write for a cycling mag. I guess knowing stuff and telling the truth is not what a cycling mag would want in a writer anyway. You're welcome for answering your question.
Get the campy disk, it's amazing, best disk on the market at the moment
11:50 That is basically XC widths, do you think they would hold up for that sort of riding?
Yep
So you took very off-roadey tyres, and put basically road pressure in them. That is an *interesting* approach to gravel riding.
yep, it gets ridden more on the road.
In that case, I would suggest less knobby tyres, like Panaracer Gravelking, maybe even the SS version on the rear.
285lbs!? Woohoo! In with 2lbs under!!! 🤣
I'm extremely short since I was hit by a lift
I have the wheel since 10 months/1400km and the front bearing failed me. the inside of the hub seems dry and the bearings lubed, they sound dry or damaged from the inside however.
2nd this experience. I have a set where the bearings totally shat themselves after a few 100km. The carbon spokes on the rear are also twisting.
285 big macs
regarding the disc rotors warping - get Hope floating rotors. they're lighter, have a better aerodynamic profile, and are far less likely to warp. downside is they're expensive.
Or sram centerline. Or Campy ones. All much better (but yeah, Hope do look the nicest).
Untorqued wheel lugs can warp brake rotors on automobiles. Perhaps, brake discs on bikes are so sensitive to proper bolt torque too.
It's a center lock disc, there are no bolts
But what's it sound like???
Firstly, I do love your videos! I'm not sure whats going on though... A low inertia object is an object which is low in mass, yes? It will spin up to speed quickly. (Force, mass, accelleration) These wheels, with these tyres are heavy compaired to most. These will be considered a high inertia wheelset as they take more force to accellerate the higher mass... A set of lighter wheels and tyres would have waaaaayyy lower inertia. On the other hand, a high inertia object is of high mass which takes more force to accellate, once up to speed it may keep spinning for longer, like a heavy fly wheel. I struggle to believe from my riding experience that these wheels spin up to speed easily as you suggested. On top of this there is the massive rolling resistance of nobbly tyres. I guess it all depends what you are comparing it too, a tractor wheel or a road race bike wheel?? If I'm wrong please put me right.
Are you a bit dumb? Of course they're comparing it to other gravel wheels... what else would you compare it to? Jezus xD
When looking specifically at bicycle wheels in a bike, you need to distinguish two types of inertia. 1/ You have the wheel's pure mass ("weight"), which you need to speed up as you increase your riding speed, and 2/ as you start speeding up, obviously the wheel needs to start rotating faster (because you want to roll your wheels on the ground without slipping) , and obviously that also takes up energy. That is linked to the rotational inertia of the wheel (scientifically called moment-of-inertia). And this whole debate here is, what the impact is of this rotational inertia on the (overall) acceleration of a wheel+bike+rider. I haven't met many people that have a natural feeling for what this rotational inertia means in terms of power and energy consumption (no, neither me), but by calculation (or look it up on internet), you can find that for a wheel/loop where all the mass is in the rim, it takes as much energy to make it move, as the energy it takes to rotate it, when it rolls without slipping. The point is, that this energy is only a fraction (1 or 2%) of what it takes to speed-up the mass of rider (+the rest of the bike). So the debate is really about how much of that rotational energy is noticable, and how much difference you can feel if you take a wheel (of same weight) where the rotational inertia is lower (i.e. its mass is not just all located on the rim, but part of the mass is located more centrally). Surely lighter is always better, for both. And surely, a smaller rotational inertia itself must also be "better", but whether just this can effect your biking performance in a somewhat noticeable way, is really where opinions seem to differ.
Low inertia? You mean light weight?
Got these with steel spokes for my Roadmachine. I paired them with 28mm Pirelli P zero race tlr.
What an absolute joy to have such air volume on the rough roads. 75kg rider and pressure set at 60 front 65 rear. Super stable in winds and just as fast as specific aero wheels of not faster
isnt the minimum 30mm ?
@@telkmx They are working perfectly with 28mm tyres.
No problems at all
60psi is way too high for a tyre that big. You're losing significant speed and comfort bouncing down the road on those.
I tried it at 35 and it rolled off the rim. Silica chart shows 28psi
Actually that was 1479g😆
go to pascha cologne
Another great reaming by Hamreami!
Touch the brakes more ❤.
Are you using Latex tubes? Or is that between you and your hairdresser...
She's allergic to latex
LA cycle-dentist and their need for badge appeal to overcompensate for the lack of pen.. atration is famous worldwide.
messy background yes
135kg!? Fucking hell. That's massive. I won't worry about my weight on carbon wheels any more 😂
Hambini reams? Not today, it seems. Speaking of bike computers/head units.
Garmins are utter shite. Like an idiot i bought the same model when mine got stolen. My fault. I took it off, put it into a plant pot and then locked up my bike. I forget to take it with me. As i was leaving some other cyclist rolled up. I hold the firm belief that he stole it. Anyway, Garmin bugs in first unit were also present in second unit.
Garmin Edge Touring Model (the white touring model not the main stream units) bug list:
randomly shuts off
will not remember your settings - as in back light will do what it wants. One day it will shut off at the 15 sec mark like it is supposed to. The next day it will stay on till i go to settings page that displays shut off timer. Only then will it rem to shut off at the right time.
the screen boxes do what they want in whatever space they want ( this is a bad bug ). Current speed box plays musical chairs on the display. Nice one eh?
When selecting minimise assent on routes it will send you over the moors in devon, which is out highest point, rather than go underneath it which google and all other online route planners do.
When selecting minimise total distance it will send you in 3.4 squares around farmers fields rather than stayin on the road you are on. Funny thing is that when your 3/4 trip around the farmers fields is done you are routed back onto the same road you were just on. Instead of 200 mets goign straight you are send around the field. Not joking. I have screenshots of my european tour trips where this happened lots of times.
I can almost reproduce a bug, i have to have good timing on a button press, that completely blanks the screen to the point that nothing but pure luck, or a dead battery, will bring back the unit to life. During the automatic screen shutdown function, if you press the right bottom button, at just the right time your screen will go completely blank. You cant see anything adn no amount of button pushing will turn it back on. If you are lucky then you can shut down the unit and press where the shutdown button is. Trouble is the screen is blank and you are just pressing on the space your fingers remembered. The shutdown button you cant see. It is hidden underneath the blank screen. Fucking joke that one.
Routing randomly sends up dead end cul de sac's. They have been there for decades and are not a new feature on a new map.
Due to the sheer amount of trouble i had with garmins i am not buying another one and giving wahoo a try next time.
Q: How many roadie/engineers does it take to screw in a lightbulb?
A: 4.
One to inspect the threads.
Another to boff the job, choosing to lube the threads.
Yet another agrees to actually do it, but not till after he's had his coffee.
And the fourth to record and put on TH-cam.
Jan Heine in "The All Road Bicycle Revolution " claims that there is a limit to how light that you can make the rim and not experience handling problems. He noted that makes of 20" folding bikes added mass to the rim. He said that the problem should not show up on 700c bicycles.
I really didn't understand his argument. I am desiring of making my 26" wheels lightweight with light tires. 300g tires for my proposal!
Jan's usage of the term "moment of inertia " was a bit flawed. He equated it with inertia. They are not the same. I have been meaning to write a polite letter to him.😊
My take is that a rider loses the kinetic energy that they built up in the wheels when they apply the brakes. So, we want light rims!
Had a front wheel of this wheel set totally collapse last year whilst a decent in the forest. Caught a stick in the front wheel and all spokes of the front wheel broke in this accident. I'm never ever going to buy a carbon spoke wheel set for Gravel ever again. Maybe it's a good set for road riding.
Hambini, what do you think about tantan cycling bikes and wheels? They’re also Chinese and really cheap, maybe even too cheap for good standards. Do you plan on doing a review on these in the future? Really love your videos they’re well done (for a 5 yr old)
Hello Sir, great Video! I'm in the market for MTB XC racing wheel, so I look at the weight first, then hub quality and ofc price. But what is your recommendation on 6 bolt vs Centerlock? I would go for Galfer discs, thanks!
Brilliant vid as usual but am a bit worried about hub internal spares availability for a lot of these new Chinese wheels Brilliant as they are. I know eventually they will probably sort these problems but how are things at the moment with Elite and 9 velo?.
Great as usual. I Would love to see the DRIVE SIX model reviewed by you, explaining the implications of riding a full carbon six spoke wheel in the gravel world, regarding extreme stiffness and so. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Huh. I use those same rotors on my Roubaix. I put them on a set of Elite Drive 50D wheels, at least partially based on your review.
Anyway, I don’t have any issue with them warping. My typical ride on that bike is about 6000ft of climbing, with screaming descents, often in varying conditions. It’s usually wet during some part of that ride. So I feel like I encounter some similar, possibly more extreme conditions.
After a big braking event from 40mph or so, I can get some brake rub for ten seconds or so. But then it goes away. Is that what you’re referring to? Or more permanent warping?
I use campagnolo disc rotors with my shimano grx di2 brakes. I’m 90 kg heavy and had no trouble ever (including riding my gravel bike in the alps or up and down the “Großer Arber” = highest Peak of the bavarian/bohemian forest mountain range> resulting in a 18 km/800 hm downhill).
Try these SwissStop Catalyst Race Centre Lock Disc Brake Rotor 160mm
Try these, bit heavier but quieter :- SwissStop Catalyst Race Centre Lock Disc Brake Rotor 160mm
I think TH-cam might delete anything with “A.l.i. Express”. Maybe they think the comment is intended to sell something. Anyway, love the review.
The downside of low inertia is loss of flywheel effect. When you have downhill followed by a short uphill the flywheel effect really helps. Also, a high inertia wheel will maintain it's momentum through short rough bumpy sections, though if do slow down low inertia will get you back up to speed quicker.
For gravel robustness is the most important attribute for wheels.
Mr H, I’m a new subscriber to your show so I apologise if my question is not your neck of the woods. Cleaning bike parts in an ultrasonic cleaner - hit or miss? What do you recommend. Many thanks.😊
Go galfer discs! They make rotors for moto gp teams and for companies like hope. There absolutely mega, ive put em on all my bikes now, there pads are amazing aswell