ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In the days between a trackday and a race at Donington Park, I had a burning question in my mind. What's wrong with my MR2? Today we find out if the engine has any troubles, with a trip to @DarksideDevelopments for a run on their rolling road.
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Alright chaps. I’m way behind on the videos but be assured I’ve got around 8 on the way
Just need to give the editor a good kicking, will hopefully be posting 1 every 3 days for a while now
Take it easy
now, im not at all experienced with a zz lump, but from other standard engines on factory management that have done the same thing with regards to a lean afr, i would go with a dirty fuel filter (first thing id change, its easy, cheap etc), a fuel pressure issue (failing o-ring in the fpr (had personally) or a failing pump/hose in tank/or even a dirty pump pre filter). also maybe try a new maf as people have suggeted.
logically i wouldnt think an air leak (inlet manifold vac leak for instance) would change much at WOT as the old "path of least resistance" saying would imply. on a n/a engine youll never find the engine ingests more air over time, but you will find that the fuel delivery will drop over time due to the reasons i put above.
Endorsed by John Broadbent
Your time will come Sir John
Get Danny in the Praga!
From what I've tested, id say that afr (within reason ,but to quite a large margin) has very little effect on power levels. Timing and compression ratio is where id be looking for lost power
Have you though about the custom Cold Air Intake? By example, PPE cai is making the engine running a little bit leaner than factory airbox. Still with the PPE, AFR of my MR-S is of 12.6 up to 12.4 on high rpms.
Building a good cai for the 1ZZ-FE with factory ECU is not easy because the engine been designed to be economical. So fuel and timing been built consequences.
After installed AFR gauge, you will see how easy is to make an MR-S running leaner or richer. A bad OEM O² sensor (even new) and the engine will running very rich (AFR from 11 to 9 on full throttle). In this case, a Genuine Part never failed. On cold start, AFR should be of 12.XX until it pass 14.XX. Around 10~11on cold start mean that something is wrong (O² sensor heater, worned sensor or bad OEM O² sensor).
Worned injectors or clogged hole spray : on cold start, AFR gauge will show quick 13~14. Engine warm, gauge will show irregular 15.XX up to 17 (instead of steady 14.XX up to 15.XX). Worned sparkplugs will give irregulars and lean AFR's. Very lean AFR (even out of range) when the spark is not doing his job.
In case of, specs of my PPE :
zupimages.net/up/22/19/hzfg.jpg
zupimages.net/up/22/19/adq2.jpg
zupimages.net/up/22/19/jbin.jpg
zupimages.net/up/22/19/mu4q.jpg
That's some good work dude thanks for sharing. I did spend a lot of time on and off dynos last year trying to get a good intake setup to trick the stock ECU into giving me some more power
That video is here if you are interested
th-cam.com/video/BZkYGBB48jE/w-d-xo.html
Just started watching this but need to comment on when you mentioned the mk2 walk away from you. The NA sw20 came with 168bhp from factory and the mk3 is only 140bhp.
they have 20% more power but 20% more weight...
torque is what puts them ahead
@@dannyDC2 Should have went mk2 😄
Needs subtitles...,....
Arr
Thanks for keeping us in the loop. You would’ve raced by now, looking forward to seeing how you get on.
Good of Darkside letting you use their Dyno… they’re a great bunch of lads (and lasses)
Best TH-cam channel. Fact.
Jesus, that's some spot isn't it?! Darkside need to take you on as driver, Dan. Just sayin' like...
Really interesting video. Just a thought. Being the age your MR2 is I would have expected some horses to have bolted from the stable but it's peak power was actually ok for it's age. I remember my engine blew up in the end as I was running lean and the engine felt great and had more power than usual then it let go. The AFR dropped as you went up the rev range because WOT more fuel was compensating the air leak. I saw around 4k you had a dip where the air leak affected your curve the most. I built very cheaply a contraption that used a pressure gauge, tyre valve, bike pump, silicone hoses and clamps to pressurise your intake in sections to find the leak. If pressure dropped after few mins you can find your leak. Another method over the easy start method. Good luck and hope u find it soon
The dyno has the same colour scheme as the car! 5:27
good spot!
Whack a new fuel filter in, I'm thinking there could be slight restriction in the fuel system.
Best of luck in the next race mate
If I remember right, the ZZ engines don't actually reference the sensors on WOT at all, they just run from a fixed fuelling table, no matter the RPM. It should be throttle position depenent, 80% or more equals fixed table with max 2% correction
I wonder if the long term fuel trims affect the rest of the map, would have been interesting to see a run after an ecu reset and maf clean
@@keljon32 It has no effect, long term trim always drops to 0% above 80% throttle, no matter the long term trim in other parts of the map. For me at least, MAF cleaning/replacement had no effect because it turned out to be a leaking fuel pump in tank regulator causing lean condition, but it's really hard to tell with these cars because there is nowhere to measure fuel pressure and no pressure sensor (bad maf and low fuel pressure have pretty identical symptoms).
I'd advise danny to drop in a fuel pump as insurance, 20-40 quid and an hour's work, mine went bad from sitting for a few months which his car does too.
Did you put a new genuine MAF on it yet, and is that pod filter oiled?
10% down? Go 10% faster! Norfolk logic, you're welcome 👍😁
Would the ecu display AFR info through something like the torque app via OBDii? Would be a quick and cheap setup.
nah has to be aftermarket
Had horrible throttle response on my car, plenty of halfords electrical cleaner on the maf element made a massive difference. Might be worth a try
Seen you at cadwell mate. Was weird seeing you in person. Was gonna say hello but you looked busy.
Clean the maf
Check the LTFT and STFTs.
That’ll give you a good idea as to what the ECU is doing to the fuelling to compensate for anything.
crazy I literally watched Hub Tub Time Machine yet again the night before this aired!
Standard airbox with sports filter I reckon will do the jobby
The 1zz runs rich at WOT as standard, N/A cars should be in the 13s as opposed to boosted cars which prefer to be in the 12s for the nicest graph
exactly why you can make gains by leaning it out a bit
@@dannyDC2 how u do dis in regulations without sacrificing low end of the rev range?
@@HrV147 see all my dyno vids last year lol
thats a very generic thing to say tbh, a boosted car can knock itself to death at 12:1, depending on loads of factors. my 2litre na used to love 12.5 compared to 13.5, like noticably quieter, quicker and didnt get as warm.
@@jamesbadham3872 you probs need that looking at
Why don't ye get the 525d mapped up lad