Making a 2 part silicone mold for lost wax casting to reproduce an antique car emblem. I will be adding a second video of the casting shortly so stay tuned!
Thank God that you have the good sense to shut off the camera during repetitive tasks. If only other creators could learn to do that! Ohh, and of course your work looks great as well!
Very interesting I was originally mystefied over the acorn nuts/ locators untill later in the video Ive always been interested in learning more about the process as years ago i had 2 freinds that began a Jewlery making shop and they made molds to mass produce some of their designs but i never stopped by the shop during a complete demonstration of them using all the equip,ment i usually saw the molds after they were built in the back of the shop
My dad does this for '41 Cadillac steering wheel horn buttons. There are some small markets for little small parts among the collector scene. Interesting. Do what ya love.
I love to watch you work so take your time! It is rare to see anyone with these skills nowadays. The skilled like you are few and far between as sitting in front of computers has killed most of the manual skills and precision. all of the master craftsmen have left the country and now only half-assed manual laborers with any resemblance of skill are found in China. very sad
This statement is so accurate. I say this as a craftsman myself. And all forms of craftsmanship in various forms are disappearing. And it suck for the few still left, because people don't truly understand what a true craftsman, crafts woman can do, & are worth. Especially when it comes to paying them for their skills. The human can also compensate for illogical real world application that computers & machines can not. There is something about that finishing touch that can only come from the heart & soul.
It's always interesting to watch other people's process. I'd like to suggest a few other methods that have helped me when doing this type of work. Instead of placing the little brass studs on your clay base for alignment pins, try pressing an indentation into the clay. I've used bolt heads as well as the end of a hemispherical pen - like a sharpie. When mixing silicone, I tend to measure the two parts into the same container. Notice that you had some of the dark blue stuff that didn't make it into the mix. The danger, of course is that you don't get it right. But, if you are using a digital scale and are patient, then it shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've found that the smaller silicone mixing spatulas that are used in the kitchen are very good at mixing the silicone. They are fairly inexpensive and can be re-used. Thanks for sharing.
ill have to check your videos out and see how you have been doing things. I'm not against making changes to improve things but i do like the results i get using the mold locators I use.
Mārtiņš Zinbergs the problem with using silicone to mix silicone is that unlike other materials uncured silicone will fuse to cured silicone and it can't be separated if you don't wash it off before it cures
this is amazing I could have used this method 50 years ago when a service station broke off my hood emblem off trying to get my radiator out for repair on my 1936 Olds. The sneakily tried to glue it back on but when I opened up the hood, the hood pressed on it and knocked it off
That's crazy, alot of work from what I get with liquid latex rubber doing same job! And cures within 10 mins and the resin about the same but leave it for an hour or so while get a coffee n dinner then pop off n file if any flash n paint up n fit within 3 hours hope my last comment you have tried or maybe try in future for same maybe higher detail being a thin first coat to pick up any fine detail in just 10 mins whole job an hour top 2 if wanting to paint it up aswell! I remember when I used to do 2 part silicone moulds too but this new latex rubber from craft hobby stores just amazing for 18 bucks for a ltr n lasted 7 years ! Iv a drawer In tool box full of rubber moulds for emblems n dash interior parts buttons switcher etc
Im impressed by your homemade simple vacuum casting setup! I assume you made your vacuum degassing chamber aswell? I need to make one asap but im unsure of what vaccum pump to buy, There is CFM value and 1 / 2 phase and also bar values, What pump do you have and recommend for silicone and jewelry investment degassing? Thank you!
@@aonemarine brass is such a good thing to use a base for chrome plate. You can take it to a mirror polish, it plates well, and if the plating gets worn or damaged the base metal doesn't fall apart.
Not for something like this. But if you needed to you could use a syringe to inject the wax into the mold. Basically you need to force the wax in under pressure....
Aha! I thought that emblem looked very similar to one I pulled off of a junked 3-tonne Farm truck many years ago. I don’t recall what the number is, though. Might be S-xxx. It’s somewhere in my stash of junk, along with the IH hood emblem. 👍
Great video ! A syringe for the activator would be much better rather than having to scrape into the measuring cup. You can buy these really cheap on ebay.
I do this alot with hobbycraft liquid rubber mould a ltr has lasted me 7 years up to now and I buy a cheap fiberglass kit and use the liquid resin n hardner out it for pouring in the mould I use it for casting hobby parts etc too for fine detail its perfect! The liquid rubber can just be painted over the badge or parts using a first thick layer leave to dry for 5 mins and add a couple more I normally go with 7 but drying time is only 5 mins because so thin but builds up to thick reusable flexible rubber moulds with no flat spots when pouring the resin in and you dont need to put casting tunnels in for air pockets etc just pour n peel its bloody amazing and if your doing things like this alot then only happy to share what i use! Its called latex rubber liquid mould and and any vehicle fast glass fiberglass products it's cheaper to buy a whole kit than the resin and hardner save about 3 bucks it's only a fiver!
@@aonemarine yeh iv done some metal for older vehicles older being the main phrase as all new vehicles are plastic plus I'm a model builder but was a mechanic and pannal beater and can fairly weather a plastic part to look metal Haha but yeh I know what you mean but that maybe a thing of the past shorty what's somewhat ashame! Iv tones of old cast badges from MGs to jaguar's Porsche Mercedes and iv done a new merc recently what a difference in quality my resin parts have more quality detail and a nice weight to what this new Mercedes had! Never even had the theft chain to attach the spokes to the base if snapped or stolen
Love your video. Very detailed. Have a question. What or how did you make the dome vacuum chamber. That would work great for my projects. Loved how you could see the bubbles being pulled. Again great video.
A great way to show ALL of the process, including the boring repetitive parts, I would be to do some post production editing by fast forwarding those passages.
I’m at dentist and we had to do this with Teeth in dental school to cast crowns and inlays. Very cool. We used to cast him em out of pure gold when it wasn’t that expensive. A classmate made his wife a ring.
@@aonemarine I've always used two part plaster molds and have had to finely skim a tad out of mold especially if fitting something like a case lid which has goto be snug tight .yeah I suppose on small parts it don't matter so much , how would you go about it on bigger pieces ?
dean depends, either section the wax pattern and reassemble, build up the master, move studs, or just start from scratch and cad model a new master pattern. Any which way you look at it, getting the damn studs to line up perfectly is a pita.
Ive done lots of stuff like this . Id have tried pouring it flat . The 2 tits in the original , are where the metal injection die loaded . Then Id have put wire , or straws in all the corners . I use a pouring gate with 3 times the volume of the part , to insure no bubbles in the metal . Ceramic shell investment plaster is neat , air goes right through it , and you dont need air vents . Maybe thats what youre going to use ? A guy in Seattle cast a shopping bag with ceramic shell , no inperfections . Id probably do that in brass and chrome it . , but you could use old emblems melted down . Pot metal is putter , which is lead -zinc -antomony . I gotta watch for the rest of this , to see how it goes .
I have no talent for this kind of craft. I'm looking for someone who could do this professionally and effectively as you can. Do you do this work for others or do you know of someone who can do it? Thanks.
Why didn't you show removing the emblem from the clay as that seems to me to be a very important part as removing the emblem from the clay would distort the mold..
honestly, i didnt think about it. But yes good point. Removing the clay is a bit of a PITA. I slip my knife along the edges of the mold to loosen it up then push the whole lot out the bottom and strip the clay then reinsert the silicone into the mold...
#1 When you bed in a part to get the mold seam right where you want it you do not want to disturb the clay. If i were to simply push in divots you may get some separation of the part from the clay and then when you draw a vacuum on it the silicone will find its way to places you don't want it too and will get an irregular mold surface. I try to get both halves of the mold as flat as possible, and of equal thickness. Its more professional looking that way. #2 They are easily moved if I don't like where one is placed. #3 When making vulcanized molds you have to use them, and its nice to see that all the molds have the same locators used.
The sprue and runner were placed in the mold. I only cut in the knife gate to the pattern. That was the simplest way to approach this particular part for various reasons....
Could’ve just scanned the original and used a 3D printer...then off to chrome. Wouldn’t be aluminum but alot faster and much better finish. Great job on traditional approach tho. 👍🏻
I mold and cast things all the time why didn't you just press the clay down into the metal wall of the box instead of pressing it onto the clay and then cutting off the sides.
I roll the clay down to a particular thickness, that would be difficult to do if the clay was inside the frame. Everyone has different ways of doing things. I checked out your YT channel and dont see any casting work??
Printing them in a material (metal) would be pretty costly and alot more work. I love my 3d printers, but this method of reproduction was best for this project...
Clay modeling of car emblems.......one of the multi-faceted talents of a "Marlboro Man". Good enough for a marketing campaign, excellent work!!
That’s cool man, thanks for your time!
Really nice work. Impressive
Thank God that you have the good sense to shut off the camera during repetitive tasks. If only other creators could learn to do that!
Ohh, and of course your work looks great as well!
Very interesting I was originally mystefied over the acorn nuts/ locators untill later in the video Ive always been interested in learning more about the process as years ago i had 2 freinds that began a Jewlery making shop and they made molds to mass produce some of their designs but i never stopped by the shop during a complete demonstration of them using all the equip,ment i usually saw the molds after they were built in the back of the shop
My dad does this for '41 Cadillac steering wheel horn buttons. There are some small markets for little small parts among the collector scene. Interesting. Do what ya love.
This encourages me to make a Fargo emblem for my truck!
I always have trouble with venting.
Could you please also do a video of you cleaning up the final casting and what tools you use?
aletoledo1 Ill see what I can do, its not very exciting though I just sand blast and polish.
aonemarine thanks, sand blasting would be cool to see. Also I'm wondering how to cut the sprues off (dremel I imagine).
I vent too much also, my wife can't get used to it
Very informative, well done.
Very cool.
I'll try this for Fiat Uno Turbo.
Thanks for sharing.
That was excellent!!!
Very well done video. Thanks.
BTW, a 180 degree oven is great for warming up modeling clay. :)
This is really interesting, I just wish I had the materials to do it myself (I've done things similar but with other people and with their supplies)
I love to watch you work so take your time! It is rare to see anyone with these skills nowadays. The skilled like you are few and far between as sitting in front of computers has killed most of the manual skills and precision. all of the master craftsmen have left the country and now only half-assed manual laborers with any resemblance of skill are found in China. very sad
This statement is so accurate. I say this as a craftsman myself. And all forms of craftsmanship in various forms are disappearing. And it suck for the few still left, because people don't truly understand what a true craftsman, crafts woman can do, & are worth. Especially when it comes to paying them for their skills. The human can also compensate for illogical real world application that computers & machines can not. There is something about that finishing touch that can only come from the heart & soul.
That's for an International Pickup 110 Series? Some owners are going to be very pleased.
Kids home made choppers
It's always interesting to watch other people's process. I'd like to suggest a few other methods that have helped me when doing this type of work. Instead of placing the little brass studs on your clay base for alignment pins, try pressing an indentation into the clay. I've used bolt heads as well as the end of a hemispherical pen - like a sharpie. When mixing silicone, I tend to measure the two parts into the same container. Notice that you had some of the dark blue stuff that didn't make it into the mix. The danger, of course is that you don't get it right. But, if you are using a digital scale and are patient, then it shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've found that the smaller silicone mixing spatulas that are used in the kitchen are very good at mixing the silicone. They are fairly inexpensive and can be re-used. Thanks for sharing.
ill have to check your videos out and see how you have been doing things. I'm not against making changes to improve things but i do like the results i get using the mold locators I use.
Mārtiņš Zinbergs the problem with using silicone to mix silicone is that unlike other materials uncured silicone will fuse to cured silicone and it can't be separated if you don't wash it off before it cures
this is amazing I could have used this method 50 years ago when a service station broke off my hood emblem off trying to get my radiator out for repair on my 1936 Olds. The sneakily tried to glue it back on but when I opened up the hood, the hood pressed on it and knocked it off
great work
That's crazy, alot of work from what I get with liquid latex rubber doing same job! And cures within 10 mins and the resin about the same but leave it for an hour or so while get a coffee n dinner then pop off n file if any flash n paint up n fit within 3 hours hope my last comment you have tried or maybe try in future for same maybe higher detail being a thin first coat to pick up any fine detail in just 10 mins whole job an hour top 2 if wanting to paint it up aswell! I remember when I used to do 2 part silicone moulds too but this new latex rubber from craft hobby stores just amazing for 18 bucks for a ltr n lasted 7 years ! Iv a drawer In tool box full of rubber moulds for emblems n dash interior parts buttons switcher etc
So you make plastic copies?
Hes making multiple waxes from his rubber mold . He'll melt out the wax, set into an investment plaster , and replace it with metal .
Awesome skills!! 👏👏👏😉😉😉
This was awesome. Also, MR ROGERS?!!! I know that voice from anywheres.
Mr. Rogers died a few years ago. You don't know your voices very well!
Great video, just subscribed, off to see part two. Thank you :)
Love this vid
The L-110 John Deere tractor.....nice
Im impressed by your homemade simple vacuum casting setup! I assume you made your vacuum degassing chamber aswell? I need to make one asap but im unsure of what vaccum pump to buy, There is CFM value and 1 / 2 phase and also bar values, What pump do you have and recommend for silicone and jewelry investment degassing? Thank you!
2 stage 4 cfm
How long have you been doing reproducing emblems I think it's a great skill set to know thanks for sharing your content
I've been going lost wax casting for 10 years now...
NIce...Got some rare side spyder emblems to try...
That is pretty cool. I am new to your site. I would love to learn more.
Join the forum...
forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php
The boaring steps are interesting to me. 👍
that looks awesome. I assume your going to cast the new emblems in aluminum? They should polish up a treat if you can get some good casts.
They will be cast in brass, then chromed.
@@aonemarine brass is such a good thing to use a base for chrome plate. You can take it to a mirror polish, it plates well, and if the plating gets worn or damaged the base metal doesn't fall apart.
How much vacuum do you pull on the rubber?
I could taste that Pink Panther chocolate looking at the last bit!
Nicely done. Is it possible to just pour the wax instead of using the pressure pot that you are using?
Not for something like this. But if you needed to you could use a syringe to inject the wax into the mold.
Basically you need to force the wax in under pressure....
Very good and thank you. Fine video
can you reproduce a neoprene oil dipstick tube Seal ? Shaped like a Stopper, must withstand heat and engine oil.
Really instructional video. Thanks a lot!!
Amazing.
Aha! I thought that emblem looked very similar to one I pulled off of a junked 3-tonne Farm truck many years ago. I don’t recall what the number is, though. Might be S-xxx. It’s somewhere in my stash of junk, along with the IH hood emblem. 👍
Great video !
A syringe for the activator would be much better rather than having to scrape into the measuring cup.
You can buy these really cheap on ebay.
that must be one heck of a valuable emblem. i cannot imagine what must be a considerable cost of reproduction.
It's not that bad...
Great video.
christopher fuller thanks Chris.
Where did this video wind up that it is getting so much attention lately??
aonemarine
This popped up on my recommendation list
I do this alot with hobbycraft liquid rubber mould a ltr has lasted me 7 years up to now and I buy a cheap fiberglass kit and use the liquid resin n hardner out it for pouring in the mould I use it for casting hobby parts etc too for fine detail its perfect! The liquid rubber can just be painted over the badge or parts using a first thick layer leave to dry for 5 mins and add a couple more I normally go with 7 but drying time is only 5 mins because so thin but builds up to thick reusable flexible rubber moulds with no flat spots when pouring the resin in and you dont need to put casting tunnels in for air pockets etc just pour n peel its bloody amazing and if your doing things like this alot then only happy to share what i use! Its called latex rubber liquid mould and and any vehicle fast glass fiberglass products it's cheaper to buy a whole kit than the resin and hardner save about 3 bucks it's only a fiver!
Well here's the problem, my customers want metal castings not plastic or composite.
@@aonemarine yeh iv done some metal for older vehicles older being the main phrase as all new vehicles are plastic plus I'm a model builder but was a mechanic and pannal beater and can fairly weather a plastic part to look metal Haha but yeh I know what you mean but that maybe a thing of the past shorty what's somewhat ashame! Iv tones of old cast badges from MGs to jaguar's Porsche Mercedes and iv done a new merc recently what a difference in quality my resin parts have more quality detail and a nice weight to what this new Mercedes had! Never even had the theft chain to attach the spokes to the base if snapped or stolen
Is that oil based clay?
Can I buy 2 of the L-110 series emblems from you
Love your video. Very detailed. Have a question.
What or how did you make the dome vacuum chamber. That would work great for my projects. Loved how you could see the bubbles being pulled.
Again great video.
That's actually store bought...
Looking great bud
Outstanding tutorial. I need to buy a vacuum chamber pronto.
Dude this is so badass, have you ever made any custom emblems?
Yes, a few...
Neat work
A great way to show ALL of the process, including the boring repetitive parts, I would be to do some post production editing by fast forwarding those passages.
I wonder why aren't you using that clay mold straight to cast aluminum in it?
The plastercine would steam off , and make air pockets . And this plastercine mold is just to make multiple waxes .
Sorry about posting on an older video but what type of Clay did you use??
It's called clean clay. A plasticine clay.
I really like the background noise
Need this done with an old land Rover series emblem
Brian LRROVER catch up to me in november. Backed up right now..
How the air goes off when you are injecting wax?
sam tehrani
The parting line let's the air out. Sometimes you need to cut vents..
In the time of 3-D printing.. wouldn't it be easier to have that done?
No, I'm making multiples so it's faster to just pull a mold from the original.
@@aonemarine Roger that.
I’m at dentist and we had to do this with Teeth in dental school to cast crowns and inlays. Very cool. We used to cast him em out of pure gold when it wasn’t that expensive. A classmate made his wife a ring.
How do you get past the shrinkage when you cast as it be smaller than the original
You don't. The part is 1% smaller which is not a huge problem on smaller pieces.
@@aonemarine I've always used two part plaster molds and have had to finely skim a tad out of mold especially if fitting something like a case lid which has goto be snug tight .yeah I suppose on small parts it don't matter so much , how would you go about it on bigger pieces ?
dean depends, either section the wax pattern and reassemble, build up the master, move studs, or just start from scratch and cad model a new master pattern. Any which way you look at it, getting the damn studs to line up perfectly is a pita.
Very niceeee
Ive done lots of stuff like this . Id have tried pouring it flat . The 2 tits in the original , are where the metal injection die loaded . Then Id have put wire , or straws in all the corners . I use a pouring gate with 3 times the volume of the part , to insure no bubbles in the metal . Ceramic shell investment plaster is neat , air goes right through it , and you dont need air vents . Maybe thats what youre going to use ? A guy in Seattle cast a shopping bag with ceramic shell , no inperfections . Id probably do that in brass and chrome it . , but you could use old emblems melted down . Pot metal is putter , which is lead -zinc -antomony . I gotta watch for the rest of this , to see how it goes .
Watch part 2....
I'd like , to do a 99 chevrolet express turning sinal light housing shell everything , they don't sell it enymore Thanks
Where is the mould bit and the wax removal??????
13:37 *dog walks in*
Do you make emblems to order? I have one I need reproduced.
I just don't have the time to do them anymore.. understaffed at the day job. Working way too many hours and no time for myself..
I have no talent for this kind of craft. I'm looking for someone who could do this professionally and effectively as you can. Do you do this work for others or do you know of someone who can do it? Thanks.
Is that a Gerber branded knife?
iVlog its a sarge.
Ive had it for 15 + years...
I am wondering if it is possible to use a clay for ceramics that can be fired in a kiln to make a mold, instead of silicone. More work to cut gates.
Like a semi permanent mold to be cast directly into??? Maybe if alot of graphite was added??
How much to make some harley davidson superduty emblems I have 2 I'm trying to recreate
Those are under copyright.
How can someone reproduce a non metal emblem like a peel and stick. Thanks
I'd start by looking at some smooth-on products for resin casting....
I had no idea of this technic, very impressive and looks time consuming. Mocho dollars. lol
Damn. You're definitely a "get your hands dirty" kind of guy... literally.
Nice ih emblem
I’d like
To commission you to make some castings of some badges for me. How do I get in touch?
Why didn't you show removing the emblem from the clay as that seems to me to be a very important part as removing the emblem from the clay would distort the mold..
honestly, i didnt think about it. But yes good point. Removing the clay is a bit of a PITA. I slip my knife along the edges of the mold to loosen it up then push the whole lot out the bottom and strip the clay then reinsert the silicone into the mold...
mantab
what is the point of using the 'acorns'? why not just make some indents in the clay?
#1 When you bed in a part to get the mold seam right where you want it you do not want to disturb the clay. If i were to simply push in divots you may get some separation of the part from the clay and then when you draw a vacuum on it the silicone will find its way to places you don't want it too and will get an irregular mold surface. I try to get both halves of the mold as flat as possible, and of equal thickness. Its more professional looking that way.
#2 They are easily moved if I don't like where one is placed.
#3 When making vulcanized molds you have to use them, and its nice to see that all the molds have the same locators used.
"Wear gloves?"
WHERE Gloves?
lmao was waiting for a thumb to come off
use pizza cutting wheel for clay
👍
Great stuff, thanks
I'm just gonna 3D print mines
Less waste for sure.
I would have placed the fill pipes in the mould not cut them in after making the mould.
The sprue and runner were placed in the mold. I only cut in the knife gate to the pattern. That was the simplest way to approach this particular part for various reasons....
anyone else get some anxiety with that knife on the table?
Seriously??
I'd suggest that you find a closet and hide from the word in it.
Nice work... however ... (forgive me plse):
but the word "escape" is pronounced eS-scape, not eX-scape
3D PRINTER?
Yes purple urkel I have 6 of them....
Holy crap dude. I watched the whole thing and at the end didnt get to see anything.
Try part 2 at 5:30. th-cam.com/video/8X4yzUijadE/w-d-xo.html. See if that’s what you want to see. Not chrome plated though.
Could’ve just scanned the original and used a 3D printer...then off to chrome. Wouldn’t be aluminum but alot faster and much better finish.
Great job on traditional approach tho. 👍🏻
Trump 2020 !
Wow! If you could do a 67-72 ford truck “camper special” emblem I’d pay you for it. I can’t find one anywhere
Do you have a picture of one??
thehomefoundry
www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/37/724737/001.jpg
I've got one that I can send to you for the mold. I just need one more
@@aonemarine I’m still looking. I’ve been unsuccessful as of yet. Do you know of anybody that could make one for me?
I tried this iv ended with a new cup burr
More easy with one 3D printer
If you are going to make a how to video make sure your camera is focused properly.
It was, you should go back to your eye doctor and see if he can help you...
I mold and cast things all the time why didn't you just press the clay down into the metal wall of the box instead of pressing it onto the clay and then cutting off the sides.
I roll the clay down to a particular thickness, that would be difficult to do if the clay was inside the frame.
Everyone has different ways of doing things. I checked out your YT channel and dont see any casting work??
aonemarine Got eeeeem! Nice looking job.
pop seal on vac, before bubbles get to top so you dont over flow and make another mess next time.
Could have just got them 3D printed.
Printing them in a material (metal) would be pretty costly and alot more work.
I love my 3d printers, but this method of reproduction was best for this project...
p1
Boring to watch but real nice job..fast forward after one min to 18 min
Kev the Rammer 1:18
Paid Blog by Marlboro... Hahaha!
Yeah! maybe I should say..... Yeauuup! See my comment above, glad that you caught that, as well!