How To Flash A Window Sill, Jamb, And Header And Properly Install A Window!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
- How To Flash A Window Sill, Jamb, And Header And Properly Install A Window!
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If window was installed on high-exposure gable-end wall, then drip cap absolutely necessary; however, with over two feet of eave directly above, it's hard to fathom how any water could reach that area, and I've seen drip caps actually make matters worse by providing a "break" in the stucco for water to enter due to thermal expansion in the sun. So, having flashed windows for close to fifty years, I think their use is a judgement call based on the location of the opening.
Nicely done, I’m a professional window installer. It’s refreshing to see windows installed properly. Drip cap is a necessity!! Love it
Thank you. I appreciate it.
@@jnmc-vx4fw I’ve been in it ten years with zero call backs. Try me
Thanks!! I have one window to replace which my son and I will do this Saturday, if the good Lord is willing, and the creek doesn't rise.
I just watched 10 or so window installation videos and this is the most complete one. Thanks for the help.
You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Greate job, I found and see that the younger so call window installer don't believe in seal tape or drip caps, they want to do a quick job and move on! I'm glad you show and do it the right way.
Thank you. Yes, a lot of young guys cut corners (some old guys too).
My only critique would be that the small pieces of sill flashing that got put in the corners should have gone on first so the the sill properly shingled over them, and to add a little bit of liquid sealant in the corner where the cut was made. This location in windows is notorious for leaking.
Eeee. Like 😊
thank you✅
I do not think this is correct. If the small corner pieces go on first, they would, in a leak, drain UNDER the sill pan instead of over it. Its all about shingling...top to bottom. Corners should come over sill pan, which comes over Tyvek
@@dlsalmonman Look @6:38, the small corner pieces are over the sill pan. If water were to hit the vertical portion of the sill pan flashing it would then trickle down and hit the top of the corner pieces and has the potential to seep behind it.
When cutting the bottom corners shouldn’t the 2 cap piece of tap go under for shingle effect?
Watched alot of techniques. A couple of things that seem like good practice not shown here are to use spacers to create a small gap between the window bottom and sill pan, and even to draft the house framing outward if possible (piece of beveled clapboard). And I learned the hard way that the drip cap or head flashing needs to be “dammed” on each side so it doesn’t divert water down the side of the window and under the trim or siding (and it’ll eventually get behind the tape at the flange and directly onto the OSB because now you have no tyvek or tape there, under the flange, in your integrated system).
That was awesome!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
You’re welcome
Mannnnnnnnn thank you 🙏🏾 this was GREAT and easy to understand
You're very welcome!
Love the video. Not enough construction teachers in the world. Love the comedic element where you call the DAP ALEX sealant. 😂
Thanks
Great demonstration!
Thank you
Great explanation. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great informative video, well done!
Glad it was helpful
Awesome Wrap! Subscribed!
Thank you
thanks again. great work and instruction.
Thank you
Thanks for this. I just installed some double hung vinyl windows and all the older videos I watched always had the wrap cut and pulled into the window opening. Never really made sense. And there are a couple a couple windows on my house installed that way, because that was the instructions….
Appreciate the better explanation and install.
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Bravo! Well done
Thank you
Excellent
Great info. Thank u!
Glad it was helpful!
Super helpful. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
thanks so much for the video ❤
You’re welcome!
Did you just use DAP acrylic paintable caulking on the outside of your building as a water barrier instead of a Silicon caulk or one properly rated for weather use?
I do commercial exterior finishing up here in the northwest. On almost every project, we also cut the WRB back about 2 inched from the R.O. but when we put the membrane on the R.O., we wrap the whole thing before the window goes in, and post wrap. We also end dam all of our head flashings, especially since we always build out a rain screen gap, and without the end dams, water would just run behind the cladding
Awesome. Yep, there are several different ways to do it depending on code and local building code.
"Cozy window" kept coming to mind because it's so tucked away, lol.
Absolutely.
Almost perfect! I believe the water-resistant membrane should actually go OVER the flashing membrane on the jamb. Do, flange, flashing, then membrane. If you wanted to do overkill, you could then put another layer of flashing over the membrane. (This is per Northwest Wall & Ceiling Bureau.)
Thank you for demonstrating this correctly! I can’t believe how many people posing as professionals making videos of incorrect window flashing! Or no flashing at all. I’m trying to send a demo video to a friend and I couldn’t find one until yours. I would only echo one commenter that the flashing in the lower corners might go first and all the way back. But thank you! We’ll done.
I appreciate it. There are so many who don't do it correctly. Honestly some have commented that I didn't do it correctly either.
Perfect technique! Thank you for sharing the tips, tricks and secrets from the pros!
You're welcome
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Overkill is underrated. Well done.👍
Thank you
Same flashing tape I have. I have 3 windows to install in one wall, spent two months replacing bad framing from termite damage. New sheathing will be required.
Termites are a pain!
thanks that was great
You're welcome
satisfying
😎 great video 6:55 it’s NOT to much even after install do another round for even more security
Most jurisdictions do require the drip cap over the top of the window. I'm a retired City Building Inspector for San Antonio and then Augusta, Georgia. We would fail the inspection if there was no flashing/drip cap above the window. I do agree and appreciate how well you explained each step of proper installation. I will be building my own house very soon and I will be following the same steps you explained here. Thank you. Inspector RC
Thank you RC. I appreciate your input.
How do you flash solid window trim that beveled siding sets against.
Thank you…. Very educational for me. We have been experiencing rain leaking at the base of our interior window molding. Can you advise if there is a specific action you took in this video that would likely resolve the issue?
You're welcome.
It starts with building the proper sill pan. Making sure that the sill is completely sealed before installing the window.
Great video!
What would you do differently for a replacement window?
Thank you. It really depends on the type of siding and replacement window type.
We use screws in Florida. Makes the inspector happy. Also easy to make a change if needed.
Cool
100% stainless screws, nails are outdated
@@clydechristmas2829 we tape over with bituminous tape so no need for stainless. My blower door test was 1.68.
This is a great video. Just curious as to what you'd do installing over GP Forcefield, since the WRB is adhered to the OSB. I have a pretty good idea but would welcome the insight
Thanks. I would just use the Forcefield tape....should adhere perfectly. I might treat the sill a bit differently with a more flexible tape like the one I mentioned.
Hi Nice job. what kind of material is your drip cap? Aluminum or steel?
Thank you. It is aluminum.
Thanks for the Video. I'm curious about the built-in J Channel window if it needs a Drip cap. The instructions from the manufacturer say it's unnecessary unless you remove it. I see conflicting information from others on this. What are your thoughts?
I would still put it under the trim and above the j-channel.
window should be shimmed, such that there's an air gap between bottom of window & sill.
Not as much an air gap as it is a drainage cavity for anything the window weep holes can't keep up with
Tyvek should rap to the inside along the the jambs of window and flashing tape should extend at least 2 in below from the Jambs and as well as flashing tape on head of window for better waterproofing
Sorry, that is not correct per most window manufacturers instructions or code.
Are you putting a trim around the window, or was that the trim? drip cap usually goes on top of the trim. Seems like you put the drip cap directly on top of the window. please elaborate. thank you
Trim will be added. Drip cap can additionally go on top of the header trim.
Will J channel cover the metal siding ridges ?
No, not sufficiently.
As your video finished you mentioned you were going to install a door. do you have a video for that as well?
We ran out of time to film that one. Too much going on. Sorry
How would you do vinyl siding around a dryervent that only has about 1" space or less between the box and Inside corner rim
You will just have to find a piece of vinyl trim that can fit in that gap horizontally.
Perfecto
Thank you
I’m using trim around my windos. Should I still use a drip cap and then z flash above the trim?
I trimmed it out as well. Yes, still z flash above the trim as well.
Great explanation. My only question is should I install the bottom of the window directly on the frame assuming the framing is perfectly level or do I need to put something to elevate it a little. To me it makes sense to go directly on frame for a better seal. What do you think? Thanks.
Doing that won't necessarily make a better seal. The seal is really created by the butyl tape on the outside.
Is this a good method for flashing a window when you are planning to stucco coat the exterior wall??
This still should work fine.
They wasn’t a shingling effect. You do lower corners first, then sill plate over them and work your way up.
They make plastic sill corners that you staple in place that I'm a big fan of.
Cool. I haven’t seen those.
6 inch blue skin as an apron 6 inches past edge of window each side two inches below rough sill. After that you put a 3-inch triangle gusset in the corner priming in between layers. Then 9-inch boot Each corner quarter inch shims minimum at bottom install window nailing flange on both sides and window clips at top no nails at bottom. After window is installed 4 inch loose skin on sides 6-inch on top Field Paper overlapping with windowsills and heads shingle correctly for flashing. Three tier gusset system never leaks
What if your window doesn’t have the flange and you have to use screws on the sides.. Doesn’t that compromise the flashing when you put a screw through it?
A flange-less window is a totally different type of installation. If you screw it in, just make sure you are not screwing into the sill or the sill pan you are creating with the peel and stick flashing. There are some other videos out there about how to do that install.
Can you do that kn the doors too?
It is a very similar process but a bit different at the sill.
What are your thoughts about using expanding foam to fill in the gaps?
I like it for extra insulating purposes.
My windows are leaking. During construction The flashing was taped on top of the tyvek. And the windows were not plum. Is the use of the foam better than nothing?
@@nataliehopkins5708 That is a different issue. The foam will not do anything. You need to have the windows removed and reinstalled properly.
Got hail damage got insurance gonna pay on description from adjustor line 2. Says Builder board-1/2 "(compostion or fiberboard sheathing) this is not meaning House wrap?
Sheathing is under the house wrap.
I am installing a hopper replacement window so no flange. Would you change any of your instructions? What about a slanted window sill?
Creating a sill pan with the flexible flash tape is going to be similar. All other steps would be different. Sorry, I don't have a video on that type.
@@CountryLivingExperience If I link you to my plans for how I’m going to install the new window is there any chance you would mind taking a quick look and let me know if you agree?
I think I have a window that wasn't installed properly in that I have some paint failure on the interior drywall of a vinyl sided house. It's below and right of the sill of the window. Not sure if the moisture isn't from the gas furnace and water heater exhaust (water vapour) condensation to that side of the window. Either way. I think it needs some repair.
Could be either one unfortunately. You may have to rip it out and start over.
I’m building a tiny home and using 5/8 T111 siding I’m using house wrap instead of felt now do I put the windows before the siding and what is the best way to flash it
Windows, then trim, then siding. Flash
It how I showed.
@@CountryLivingExperience thank you for responding
You're welcome
Do you have a video showing how to do this if your building is already sided? We just moved into a 150 year old house and the previous owners did not hire people who knew what they were doing when they replaced the windows. I need to put flashing and drip caps on every single window.
I don't have a video like that, sorry. An older building can pose a lot of challenges and may have had any number of different construction methods used to build it. When I was working at an architecture firm in Houston, our biggest challenge was the renovation of historic homes. You may be able to find something on the "This Old House" channel.
Can you install trim through the drip cap at the top just fine?
Yes, no problem.
Sorry another question! What did you use for your trim blocks if they weren’t standard size? Thanks for the video - super helpful!
Not sure what a trim block is.
Wonderful beginning to end....almost. You put some kind of clips on top of the window drip cap and then some additional adhesive flashing. You should have explained exactly what and why. Having done such a thorough job, so absolutely detailed, why wouldn't you have instructed us on that last bit as well? If you did it, it must be important? So why leave it out?
Not seeing such a drip cap at Home Depot or Lowes. Is it a premade thing for sale, or do you make your own out of a sheet of thin aluminum?
I made that myself from sheet galvanized steel.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thank you for the reply! Should not be hard to do; good idea.
I love the overkill. I bought a mobile.
The previous owners put windows in. No flash tape, no drip edge on top
Needless to say. It's currently raining, water is dripping.
When I fix, Im following your instructions.
Thanks
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
I just had very large custom triangular shaped vinyl windows installed, and they did not use any tape on the sills. The builder said you ONLY need tape on the top, left, and right side exterior flanges. I hope he's right.......
He is correct if he is talking about putting tape or a sealant on the window flange. You still need to create a sill pan with either metal flashing or the butyl tape like I did.
@@CountryLivingExperience yeah that didn't happen because I definitely don't see any signs of that. I am thinking these windows might have to all come out to be done correctly :(
@@Dorchwoods Yikes. Hope it works out ok for you.
My only issue with this drip edge above the window is that it had a reverse angle on it. Someone bent it with a 90.
Proper way is to actually only bend a 60 and then push it down on silicone to about 85 degrees at most. So water is diverted away from house instead of channeled to the sides.
If your Drip edge is angled out, most cases the water will shoot away from your house off the edge.
In this case though, specifically, only reason the Drip cap doesn't matter is because all the waterproofing done here, Drip cap is only one of many barriers.
Good job for sure, maybe white aluminum drip cap instead of galvanized. Lol
Just curious, why did you go with cheap, small, windows? The cost difference isn’t significant, so I’m always shocked when I see people going cheap.
my guy watched a matt risinger video and said i can also be an authority on weather envelopes now, lemme get my camera
Or I am an Architect that has worked in the profession for 17 years and knows how to properly install a window.
Yea but risinger is a douche
Totally noob questions: how does water (if it gets under the window) drain outside through flashing tape? Is it one way membrane? And what about inside, is there any sealing or water coming that way is impossible?
Water can seep into any tiny crack or opening. The key is keeping it out. There is no one way membrane.
@@CountryLivingExperience So, the flashing tape wasn't meant to be 100% watertight seal all around, but to keep water from getting in from the outside, and in a hypothetical situation when water does get in, it still can sip out through the tiny openings in the tape seal?
What about inside - would water go that way?
Again, sorry about my questions, but where I am this technology is not at all common...
Looked like they only shimmed Under the left side of the window lol
who made that window ?
Got it at Home Depot
@@CountryLivingExperience thank you I wasn't sure if it was a Great lakes or sunrise so it's probably a jeld wen or Anderson's something like that
Looks like you used 6", why didn't you use 4" flashing tape?
It is what I had. Additionally, bigger tape gives you more options.
That painters caulk won’t do a darn thing
They caulked the window in on aluminum, keeping original slanted sill plate. Nothing flashed-just caulk and wood with slanted plate, huge caulk-filled gaps, so the bottom of the windows is bigger than the other three sides. I thought to do a tear down, they had to replace brickmoulds and sill at the same time, to build an entire new frame. It looks horrendous, even if it were trimmed up, which they did not DO. So I have wrong sized wood, huge silicone filled gaps, up against aluminum. I'm not happy.
Sorry about that. Any legal recourse?
Gap is way too small for the window! The minute the house settles or gets a big wind, your window will crack.
The drip cap on that particular window is overkill for sure. Being 8" under a 30" eve, it will never see a drop of water in its life. Some time and materials wasted.
I wouldn’t hire you to work on a crew building any of my houses if you are going to cut corners like that. Not overkill, it is the proper way to do it.
Where's how to properly install door?
LOL! They had no waterproofing whatsoever.
Yep. Pretty crazy.
You should have just wrapped the whole house with flashing.
Going to play Anal Andy.You keep referring to the “flange”. It’s a FINN. Ordering a window with a flange and you’ll get a window for CBS construction.
The term flange and fin are used interchangeably in many parts of the country. Some manufacturers like Marvin use fin, some manufacturers like NK use nailing flange. I have practiced architecture in 3 different states and the dozens of builders I have worked with use the term flange. It is a building term that is regional in character.
Why doesn't anyone say follow manufacturers specifications when wrapping windows? Stainless steel drip caps start rusting in 5 yrs..adds patina 😂
BTW Liberty Mutual sucks!
Way overkill. You have at least 3 foot overhang. But it’s your money.
Doing it correctly is not overkill. No extra money involved but an $8 roll of butyl tape. I wouldn’t want you working on my house.
No, it's not overkill. Water and moisture is a solvent. As the poster above said, "I wouldn't want you working on my house". I discovered this problem myself because of some irresponsible HACK who thought he was a good GC. A little more insurance goes a long way. If you can't grasp this , hang up tool pouches and try something else....
Still wrong.
lol. Nope.
Correction he never flashes the window, no break used no aluminum bent yet again on one of these “flashing videos” yet the whole thins is about installing a window smh
You do understand there are other types of flashing right? Many types were used in this video. Also, look at the title.