I own the same vehicle with the same oil consumption issues. In the past, I just chose to add more oil, intermittently. In the future, I will clean the orifice in the PCV circuit and use some BG "EPR" as a sludge cleaner. The "EPR" is to make sure the sequential cam bits operate well and the timing chain is clean. The design of the piston rings leads me to believe the consumption issue isn't a ring clogging probleem but an issue with the sloppy rings and poor PVC design. As a fail safe, I've replaced the filler cap with a vented one. That is to insure I don't lose the rear main seal.
To make it more effective I warmed the engine so it would heat soak the berrymans and bg products makes an engine flush also try a couple quarts of ATF in the oil warm it up and idle at 2000 rpm for 30 min did this to mine and helped out a bunch
I think your problem is still the PCV. The tiny orifice is just not enough for the blow by you may be experiencing. So you still have a seating issue whether the rings are cleaned or not. You should try the external PCV valve that sits on an aftermarket oil cap and connects down to the brake booster line. That’s been a big help.
Great video. I am changing my vvt solenoids, plugs and coils and throttle body today on the darn Equinox. I only have 75k on mine and the oil consumption isn’t too drastic yet.
Bumped your subscription number to 639. Just bought a 2013 Equinox. Will be keeping an eye on the oil level. If it uses more than a qt per 5000, I'll pull the head and pan. Pull each piston and replace the low tension rings.
The PCV hose is very thin plastic with no protection from wind chills. Insulating the hose like other car manufacturers will prevent freezing. Also the valve cover hose port tends to clog with sludge and should be cleaned out periodically.
Thanks so much for the response! I'm going to add both recommendations to my next video. I never thought about insulating that tube. I normally spray that valve in the cover but completely forgot about it when filming. Thanks for watching and the great feedback!
I would suggest the same for the PCV vent tube(insulating it). Most other times this tube is insulated on other engines. It seems this step was omitted. I like what you did with the cleaning of the piston rings. I did the same on my '11 Equinox and it helped the oil consumption. I'm not sure how long this will last though.@@awayfromtherange
@thegallolife Thanks for the info. I have an oil catch can here. Thinking about cutting that tube and installing it. Maybe get all the lines running downhill so at the very least condensation can't get trapped up by the airbox. I normally clean that valve cover port but completely forgot about it in the video. Thanks for watching!
Replace the hard plastic line with a rubber fuel line and angle it down so it doesn't trap moisture. The stock line traps moisture. Insulating it won't help.
Hello, I'm from Kazakhstan, and I have a Chevrolet Captiva, it has the same engine as you, and the same problems. Tomorrow I'll go drill the intake manifold.
I did the 2 cam shaft position sensors or what ever they are called, the intake and exhaust and I also pulled the intake and clean the PCV valve and I have to add oil every other week. I check it every Sunday and sometimes it's low like 1/4 or 1/2 QT, but it is EVERY time. We need to find a good fox for this. So thanks for sharing this video. So you drilled a hole above the PCV valve so you can clean it when ever you want without having to take the entire intake manifold off right? Do you have a video on that process? Of drilling out the hole and setting the screw?? So you can remove the coil pack and plug and drop the B-12 Chem-tool directly down there??
Is there any other way to clean this or try to resolve other than drill the lil hole? Im not as familar with suv or working on cars to do that part of it but i def would try to clean or other maintenance i cab
Yes the normal way to clean it is to remove the intake manifold, clean it and reinstall. This process bypasses all that to simplify. Thanks for watching!
I use seafoam in crank case occasionally as a preventative measure, not very much not very often, usually before oil change, just to keep the clogging away. I watch the diydave vids, in his case he still has not resolved the issue, I think its the piston oil returns holes in his pistons are clogged, no matter what you put in there, those holes will not unclog unless you take out the pistons and drill out the crud, it gets hard in those holes. Hope that is not your issue, you can put a little seafoam in the oil anytime and it will do some cleaning, but best just before oil change, that way you get the crud out.
Just replaced the rings on my '03 Forester. Yep! The oil return holes were plugged solid!! Used a drill with a small bit. Haven't driven it enough to know if I solved the oil consumption issue. Just bought a 2013 Equinox. If the oil consumption is more than a qt per 5000, the head and pan are coming off. New rings to replace the low tension ones.
Look at the bright side. You don’t own a newer jeep Cherokee KL. The problems are so bad and so widespread they discontinued the vehicle. so comparatively this is not so bad
Anybody else get the feeling manufacturers intentionally make modern cars difficult to work on? When you said chainsaw lube are you talking about 2-cycle oil or bar and chain oil?
Bar and chain oil in the spray can. It's just something to help compression and lube on that first start. Honestly, the 2 cycle oil is a good choice also. It was really hard to start. I only showed about 1/4 of the start attempts. I think the engineers drawing up CAD designs are probably working in pods isolated from other teams designing other areas of the cars. They are taking motor designs and stuffing them into whatever they can fit them in. Home mechanics aren't a concern for them, and if you read warranty stuff closely, major repairs are going to take a lot of paperwork and receipts to prove the maintenance was done and could still end up in a denial. Pro mechanics are happy to get the larger book times required for poor designs. Today's cars are disposable due in part to federal regulations mandating higher MPGs requiring lighter cars to meet those requirements and investor need for automakers to make more money per unit sold. Lighter cars mean lighter materials that don't hold up as well over time. I could go on for hours, but I'll start sounding like an alarmist. Thanks for watching!
I'm just going to keep stuffing oil in it. It's at least manageable now. It only needs to make 1.5 years to graduation. I'm guessing the motor and trans needs to come out? Thanks for watching.
im pissed i gotta do this to my girlfreinds. thing takes more oil then gas now. its getting ridiculous, use to be every 2 weeks. now its even more. im glad to hear youve fixd 3 like this. are the replacements updated rings at least?
@jessebunch621 seems like a lot of oil. I'd check the pvc return hose for ice, spray the PCV valve in the valve cover and make sure it's free. These two options won't cost you much time. A compression and leakdown test can help isolate a ring issue along with spark plug condition. I do agree the low tension rings are an issue in these cars, but you might try a few quick things first. Thanks for watching!
Agreed, the only fix is new rings and pistons. I'm about to do this job for the first time for one of my customers with a severe oil consumption problem on a 2013 Equinox. I have thoroughly educated myself on the issue and GM TSB 13-06-01-003J. I really appreciate your videos, but I'm convinced that the defective factory rings is the cause of the PCV system getting clogged in the first place and that there just isn't a quick fix to this problem. I know a couple of dudes on TH-cam did a Seafoam treatment, but I think that's just dumb luck IMHO. My customer got charged by a chain store for an "engine flush" (probably a Seafoam treatment) and it didn't solve a thing except gouge her wallet. I loved your idea of the PCV access port to periodically clean the orifice, but ultimately the rings need to be replaced. Please take my comments with a grain of salt as I have no experience on this engine, just have done a lot of research. Thanks for your great videos and great attitude!
@@awayfromtherange I have had many equinox, I get them for work, and the 2017 I purchased directly for my own car, when they upgraded. Although the 2017 is the problematic year, given my abilty to stay on top of it, and as a hobby mechanic I think this car is actually a great, great car, for those who understand the oil limitations and are on top of it. You provide in your videos the ability to make it the car it should be. :)
Hi, you did a lots of work but no luck, now I want to tell you where the problem is, the oil burning problem is from valve seals, the seals get hard and leaks oil and goes into cylinder and burned, if you replace the valve seals the problem will be solved .
![เจ้าผู้เดียว - ดิด คิตตี้ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q0NLCYKBOTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Putting your daughter in there was cute plus I love learning about fixing my daughter's car.
The problem with the 2.4L ECOTEC is the piston ring tension was too low. Nothing you have been would help. Except replacing the ring.
I own the same vehicle with the same oil consumption issues. In the past, I just chose to add more oil, intermittently. In the future, I will clean the orifice in the PCV circuit and use some BG "EPR" as a sludge cleaner. The "EPR" is to make sure the sequential cam bits operate well and the timing chain is clean. The design of the piston rings leads me to believe the consumption issue isn't a ring clogging probleem but an issue with the sloppy rings and poor PVC design. As a fail safe, I've replaced the filler cap with a vented one. That is to insure I don't lose the rear main seal.
To make it more effective I warmed the engine so it would heat soak the berrymans and bg products makes an engine flush also try a couple quarts of ATF in the oil warm it up and idle at 2000 rpm for 30 min did this to mine and helped out a bunch
Thanks for the great info, and thanks for watching!
I think your problem is still the PCV. The tiny orifice is just not enough for the blow by you may be experiencing. So you still have a seating issue whether the rings are cleaned or not. You should try the external PCV valve that sits on an aftermarket oil cap and connects down to the brake booster line. That’s been a big help.
Link?
Great video. I am changing my vvt solenoids, plugs and coils and throttle body today on the darn Equinox. I only have 75k on mine and the oil consumption isn’t too drastic yet.
Hope this went good for you. My VVT screen on the intake side was clogged with metal shavings from the timing chain. Thanks for watching!
Bumped your subscription number to 639.
Just bought a 2013 Equinox.
Will be keeping an eye on the oil level.
If it uses more than a qt per 5000, I'll pull the head and pan. Pull each piston and replace the low tension rings.
The PCV hose is very thin plastic with no protection from wind chills. Insulating the hose like other car manufacturers will prevent freezing. Also the valve cover hose port tends to clog with sludge and should be cleaned out periodically.
Thanks so much for the response! I'm going to add both recommendations to my next video. I never thought about insulating that tube. I normally spray that valve in the cover but completely forgot about it when filming. Thanks for watching and the great feedback!
I would suggest the same for the PCV vent tube(insulating it). Most other times this tube is insulated on other engines. It seems this step was omitted.
I like what you did with the cleaning of the piston rings. I did the same on my '11 Equinox and it helped the oil consumption. I'm not sure how long this will last though.@@awayfromtherange
@thegallolife Thanks for the info. I have an oil catch can here. Thinking about cutting that tube and installing it. Maybe get all the lines running downhill so at the very least condensation can't get trapped up by the airbox. I normally clean that valve cover port but completely forgot about it in the video. Thanks for watching!
Replace the hard plastic line with a rubber fuel line and angle it down so it doesn't trap moisture. The stock line traps moisture. Insulating it won't help.
@tssci6774 I've been thinking about this and installing a catch can with the lines running down to it.
Them blow rear main seals from that issue.... you should try a vented oil cap as well as cleaning the pvc
I have the same car 2011. I agree the oil dip stick is a pain to read
Thanks for watching!
Try using Yamalube Ring Free Plus shock treatment of 1 ounce per gallon of gasoline.
Hello, I'm from Kazakhstan, and I have a Chevrolet Captiva, it has the same engine as you, and the same problems. Tomorrow I'll go drill the intake manifold.
Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Great video I have the exact same problem
I did the 2 cam shaft position sensors or what ever they are called, the intake and exhaust and I also pulled the intake and clean the PCV valve and I have to add oil every other week. I check it every Sunday and sometimes it's low like 1/4 or 1/2 QT, but it is EVERY time. We need to find a good fox for this. So thanks for sharing this video. So you drilled a hole above the PCV valve so you can clean it when ever you want without having to take the entire intake manifold off right? Do you have a video on that process? Of drilling out the hole and setting the screw?? So you can remove the coil pack and plug and drop the B-12 Chem-tool directly down there??
It means the b12 stayed in the cylinder the first time it all leaked past the rings except cyl 2
Thanks for watching!
The RAV4 2.4’s in the 09-12 years also had high consumption at the higher mileage. The 3.5 V6 was much better.
Is there any other way to clean this or try to resolve other than drill the lil hole? Im not as familar with suv or working on cars to do that part of it but i def would try to clean or other maintenance i cab
Yes the normal way to clean it is to remove the intake manifold, clean it and reinstall. This process bypasses all that to simplify. Thanks for watching!
Run a couple cans trhu fuel ststem will help
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try. Thanks for watching!
I use seafoam in crank case occasionally as a preventative measure, not very much not very often, usually before oil change, just to keep the clogging away. I watch the diydave vids, in his case he still has not resolved the issue, I think its the piston oil returns holes in his pistons are clogged, no matter what you put in there, those holes will not unclog unless you take out the pistons and drill out the crud, it gets hard in those holes. Hope that is not your issue, you can put a little seafoam in the oil anytime and it will do some cleaning, but best just before oil change, that way you get the crud out.
Just replaced the rings on my '03 Forester. Yep! The oil return holes were plugged solid!! Used a drill with a small bit. Haven't driven it enough to know if I solved the oil consumption issue.
Just bought a 2013 Equinox. If the oil consumption is more than a qt per 5000, the head and pan are coming off. New rings to replace the low tension ones.
Look at the bright side. You don’t own a newer jeep Cherokee KL. The problems are so bad and so widespread they discontinued the vehicle. so comparatively this is not so bad
Could you not put a self taping screw into the drilled out hole
He chose not to use those screws because of the expansion and contracting of the plastic.
Anybody else get the feeling manufacturers intentionally make modern cars difficult to work on? When you said chainsaw lube are you talking about 2-cycle oil or bar and chain oil?
Bar and chain oil in the spray can. It's just something to help compression and lube on that first start. Honestly, the 2 cycle oil is a good choice also. It was really hard to start. I only showed about 1/4 of the start attempts. I think the engineers drawing up CAD designs are probably working in pods isolated from other teams designing other areas of the cars. They are taking motor designs and stuffing them into whatever they can fit them in. Home mechanics aren't a concern for them, and if you read warranty stuff closely, major repairs are going to take a lot of paperwork and receipts to prove the maintenance was done and could still end up in a denial. Pro mechanics are happy to get the larger book times required for poor designs. Today's cars are disposable due in part to federal regulations mandating higher MPGs requiring lighter cars to meet those requirements and investor need for automakers to make more money per unit sold. Lighter cars mean lighter materials that don't hold up as well over time. I could go on for hours, but I'll start sounding like an alarmist. Thanks for watching!
Only way to fix the problem I'd to put new rings on the pistons. I've done 3 engines this way
I'm just going to keep stuffing oil in it. It's at least manageable now. It only needs to make 1.5 years to graduation. I'm guessing the motor and trans needs to come out? Thanks for watching.
im pissed i gotta do this to my girlfreinds. thing takes more oil then gas now. its getting ridiculous, use to be every 2 weeks. now its even more. im glad to hear youve fixd 3 like this. are the replacements updated rings at least?
@jessebunch621 seems like a lot of oil. I'd check the pvc return hose for ice, spray the PCV valve in the valve cover and make sure it's free. These two options won't cost you much time. A compression and leakdown test can help isolate a ring issue along with spark plug condition. I do agree the low tension rings are an issue in these cars, but you might try a few quick things first. Thanks for watching!
Agreed, the only fix is new rings and pistons. I'm about to do this job for the first time for one of my customers with a severe oil consumption problem on a 2013 Equinox. I have thoroughly educated myself on the issue and GM TSB 13-06-01-003J. I really appreciate your videos, but I'm convinced that the defective factory rings is the cause of the PCV system getting clogged in the first place and that there just isn't a quick fix to this problem. I know a couple of dudes on TH-cam did a Seafoam treatment, but I think that's just dumb luck IMHO. My customer got charged by a chain store for an "engine flush" (probably a Seafoam treatment) and it didn't solve a thing except gouge her wallet. I loved your idea of the PCV access port to periodically clean the orifice, but ultimately the rings need to be replaced. Please take my comments with a grain of salt as I have no experience on this engine, just have done a lot of research. Thanks for your great videos and great attitude!
@@densmith1234 thanks for watching!
You are so much like me lol
Thanks for watching!
9ne can per tank 8f that bad id do three can per tank i e used eyery 70,000 miles and ne er had any problems
Thanks for watching!
Are you BLM certified?
I’m sorry to say, but you bought a Chevy equinox. That was the first problem.
LMFAO, you are absolutely right. I wish I could go back and kick myself in the nuts for not researching I would. Thanks for watching!
@@awayfromtherange😂
@@awayfromtherange I have had many equinox, I get them for work, and the 2017 I purchased directly for my own car, when they upgraded. Although the 2017 is the problematic year, given my abilty to stay on top of it, and as a hobby mechanic I think this car is actually a great, great car, for those who understand the oil limitations and are on top of it. You provide in your videos the ability to make it the car it should be. :)
Hi, you did a lots of work but no luck, now I want to tell you where the problem is, the oil burning problem is from valve seals, the seals get hard and leaks oil and goes into cylinder and burned, if you replace the valve seals the problem will be solved .
I put 320k on mine before the transmission quit