I fill most of the crack with sand prior to sealing, also doing it after a dry spell allows most of the water to escape prior to sealing as freeze protection, reduces the chance of heaving.
The company who raised/leveled some of my concrete recommended I fill the joints with concrete silicone from GE. I never did it, so thank you for the amazing video!
The moment you use a silicone based product, you’ll never be able to use anything but a silicone based product unless you mechanically remove the sealant. Polyurethane, on the other hand, plays nicely with other sealant chemistries, except for butyl/petroleum based sealants. The good news is that silicone will basically last forever when exposed to the elements.
Great video demo and I've used Sika brand with great results and learned the hard way about the floating backer rod where the crack was too wide...what a mess.😅 Tip...carefull using a screwdrive you can rupture the closed cell of the backer rod! 😂
Super informative. I do have a few of questions: 1) how long does the sealant last? 2) how often should you do this if the sealant washes off/comes undone? 3) on a normal driveway, where there’s no side walls (like in your plexiglass demo), what should you do for the sides? Or do the sides not matter? Thanks for the video, def going to do this
The stuff still works after 3 years. No cracks. The only difference I did was pour sand in between the each pad then put in the backer rod. I made a plastic tool like Mike’s but put the 1/2” tab in the middle. This way I could run it along the top of both blocks for the correct depth. 👍
I know from some of the comments that people are skeptical about washouts where there doesn't seem like anywhere the substrate can wash out to. I've seen 18 inches of airspace under garage floors from 35 years of water coming in under the front of the slab, where the driveway expansion joint wasn't sealed. This despite the fact that the garage has 24 inches of foundation on the other 3 sides. Even when the substrate doesn't wash out, water collection attracts tree roots and it's pretty common to see wider driveways lifted by tree roots down the center when the centerline is either an expansion joint or a cracked through tooled joint.
Michael , I would love to see this really put to an extreme test "Weather" for a period of time " Your Choice" 3-6 months is what I was thinking.. Summer heat & Winter cold then Re-test....What ya Think? Oh and my driveway is a perfect example of erosion!!! cracked lifting , falling etc etc. Unlike most Im looking at demo and tamping "mechanical" PLATE COMPACTOR!!! not by hand lol , then re-surface possibilties.
20 degrees is a very steep driveway! Cracks running across the driveway, the self leveling sealant should work. But any cracks running down the incline would need the non sag product.
If it were me, since it’s self leveling I’d push that core a little farther down so that you can still get 1/2 inch of sealant on the “high side” after it levels.
Kind of surprised anyone would just use an inch of rock as base. And you compact the dirt, put down 4 inches of compacted base and a vapor barrier before pouring.
Bro, part of this demo makes absolutely NO sense. My concrete pad and substrate are not sealed in a box with 2 holes at the bottom on the sides. Actually my substrate is well compacted and water drains TROUGH the bottom of my substrate. As far as sealing the driveway cracks are concerned the product you’re using seems to be an excellent choice for that and an appropriate application. Keep up the good work.
Couldn’t disagree with you more. Over time what he shows is exactly what happens. Just because it hasn’t happened to you doesn’t mean it won’t. If your concrete is at different levels that’s what’s happening.
@@FFL61750 Agreed , concrete never stops hardening and will continue too and start to crack...We replace or repair as needed and some just dont have funds to replace a 60x20 driveway !!! Esp these days!!!
Here's the challenge Michael. Make a water fountain using block and some type of Rapid Set product. Solar power would be best but electric is fine too. At least 6 foot long.
You just helped me prove to my wife why re-doing our broken worn joint seals! I love the channel!
I fill most of the crack with sand prior to sealing, also doing it after a dry spell allows most of the water to escape prior to sealing as freeze protection, reduces the chance of heaving.
Good idea
The company who raised/leveled some of my concrete recommended I fill the joints with concrete silicone from GE. I never did it, so thank you for the amazing video!
The moment you use a silicone based product, you’ll never be able to use anything but a silicone based product unless you mechanically remove the sealant. Polyurethane, on the other hand, plays nicely with other sealant chemistries, except for butyl/petroleum based sealants.
The good news is that silicone will basically last forever when exposed to the elements.
That test rig was very informative thanks for the video!
Do you have video on sealing cracks on aggregate driveway. How to make it match rest of driveway
Great video demo and I've used Sika brand with great results and learned the hard way about the floating backer rod where the crack was too wide...what a mess.😅 Tip...carefull using a screwdrive you can rupture the closed cell of the backer rod! 😂
Super informative. I do have a few of questions:
1) how long does the sealant last? 2) how often should you do this if the sealant washes off/comes undone?
3) on a normal driveway, where there’s no side walls (like in your plexiglass demo), what should you do for the sides? Or do the sides not matter?
Thanks for the video, def going to do this
Really enjoy the videos! Your addition of the blacktop fill at the end was a great touch because I wouldn't have realized both were an option. Thanks
Awesome, i been eyeing my driveway cracks : )
The stuff still works after 3 years. No cracks. The only difference I did was pour sand in between the each pad then put in the backer rod. I made a plastic tool like Mike’s but put the 1/2” tab in the middle. This way I could run it along the top of both blocks for the correct depth. 👍
I know from some of the comments that people are skeptical about washouts where there doesn't seem like anywhere the substrate can wash out to.
I've seen 18 inches of airspace under garage floors from 35 years of water coming in under the front of the slab, where the driveway expansion joint wasn't sealed. This despite the fact that the garage has 24 inches of foundation on the other 3 sides.
Even when the substrate doesn't wash out, water collection attracts tree roots and it's pretty common to see wider driveways lifted by tree roots down the center when the centerline is either an expansion joint or a cracked through tooled joint.
Michael , I would love to see this really put to an extreme test "Weather" for a period of time " Your Choice" 3-6 months is what I was thinking.. Summer heat & Winter cold then Re-test....What ya Think? Oh and my driveway is a perfect example of erosion!!! cracked lifting , falling etc etc. Unlike most Im looking at demo and tamping "mechanical" PLATE COMPACTOR!!! not by hand lol , then re-surface possibilties.
kool video thank for the info. very helpful..!!!
Is it possible to create foam expansion joint in existing floor concrete having expansion joint with the wall?
thanks to showing us what to do.
Glad to hear they make it in black!
Would I remove the existing expansion joint material and fill with backer rod?
My driveway is slopped, will self-leaving sealer still work on that?
I would like to know too about holding up in the freezing temps
Very nice demo. Question. Can I use the self leveling on a inclinde driveway, about 20degrees elevation? Or is it better to use the non sag?thanks
20 degrees is a very steep driveway!
Cracks running across the driveway, the self leveling sealant should work. But any cracks running down the incline would need the non sag product.
Heeeeyyyy Michael! 💕 I'm Going to make your silly laugh my ring tone 😂
🤣 oh I feel so sorry for you now lol 😂
@@MichaelBuilds 🤣🤣🤣
Michael, @4:20, that looked like a proper salute. Did you also serve?
Thank you, Ryan, for your service!
yes, he loves a few good men
Fun experiment! I'm sold! Gonna make my husband watch this. Thanks Mike!
lol , Honey-Do List!!!😜
Why are those bottom holes been sealed as well?
How do you do that on a sloped driveway?
If it were me, since it’s self leveling I’d push that core a little farther down so that you can still get 1/2 inch of sealant on the “high side” after it levels.
Don't use self-levelling when the surface isn't level.
@@LoganKearsley Facts, it will level with existing grade but you can correct with backer rod angle😉
Can you use this for a diagonal crack on a driveway?
Great video and demonstration! Thanks Michael! Now I know why my driveway is literally breaking apart! 👍👍🤔🤔
Omg the laughter 😂😂
What about -50 climate? Any foreseeable repercussions to this approach?
Thats Cold esp if the temp is constant for 7-10 days!! WoW
Spray with cement foam?
Is that product flexible? I wonder how it would hold up in freezing climates
yes & Hot/Cold expansion would be a great test along with general outdoor weather related elements
Kind of surprised anyone would just use an inch of rock as base. And you compact the dirt, put down 4 inches of compacted base and a vapor barrier before pouring.
It's a good thing that when I build my dirt isn't sitting above my dirt to wash out onto my dirt. (just making a joke about the demonstration rig)
Yeah...show it in Florida where it bubbles up and looks like crap. SIKA is the best down here
Florida is a truly different deal!!! Im sure there has to be Heat/Cold restrictions on time of application
😎👍🏻👍🏻
If your concrete finisher is cutting joints all the way through, they’re doing it wrong and should be told so
Bro, part of this demo makes absolutely NO sense. My concrete pad and substrate are not sealed in a box with 2 holes at the bottom on the sides. Actually my substrate is well compacted and water drains TROUGH the bottom of my substrate. As far as sealing the driveway cracks are concerned the product you’re using seems to be an excellent choice for that and an appropriate application. Keep up the good work.
Couldn’t disagree with you more. Over time what he shows is exactly what happens. Just because it hasn’t happened to you doesn’t mean it won’t. If your concrete is at different levels that’s what’s happening.
@@FFL61750 Agreed , concrete never stops hardening and will continue too and start to crack...We replace or repair as needed and some just dont have funds to replace a 60x20 driveway !!! Esp these days!!!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ thats Me lol......60x20 today would be , im guessing like 12-15K Ish
Here's the challenge Michael. Make a water fountain using block and some type of Rapid Set product. Solar power would be best but electric is fine too. At least 6 foot long.
Making your cracks look good one tube at a time. Who NU your cracks looking good was so important? Crack failure the struggle is real!!
Clamp it
Cheater