Appreciate your videos, been helping me several times. I did an FE 390 - while watching your videos. Now in the process of installing a 383 kit this is great help.
When you clearance the block for a stroker build is there any procedure you use to make sure you wont grind into the water jacket? im wondering if maybe partially filling the block with engine block filler would allow me to stroke a small block further than 383 cubes and even if i do grind through it wouldn't matter as i would be going into the block filler and not hitting where water would actually be.
Nice vid, I spent a summer in my spare time clearing a 400 sbc that I made into a 434, I had a good time building that engine, it was a great experience for me.
I think it is best to start out with a block that already has stroker clearance, such as a dart SHP block. That way, it saves a lot of labor, and in the end you have a stronger block...ED
thanks for the video. i have build a few engines before, but I'm building my 3rd V8 engine and it's a Dodge 360 bored and stroked to 408. this well be my first time performing the clearance for the H beam rod bolts which are ARP 2000.
1st of all thank you for this information. Summit sells a 383 stroker block will that save me hours of clearance ing and keeping things clean? This is my first stroker build and your information is huge
JUST an FYI. We nerdy guys who love this shit won't mind watching a FFWD of the handiwork. I know it's a lot of work on your end but I've been watching jafro's FFWD'd vids for quite some time now. I find both of your videos very educational. But again...just an fyi. I would watch 40hrs of work if you caan get it into a 30minute video with really good narration and explanation of why you're doing what you're doing and what you're using to do it. Also tool prices, products you like and don't like, things that work for you and are cheap vs things that work for you and are expensive but worth the money in your eyes. These all help produce a picture even more vivid than the one you've already illustrated. GREAT VIDEO! Again. I would like to see even more. lol
I very much appreciate the information that you share. Thank you. During your 383 clearance video you mentioned a hundred thousandths required between the block and rods. Regarding the clearance required between the rods and the cam, I have heard “others” suggest that .050-.060 is acceptable. What is your opinion/suggestion for a 383 street motor that will occasionally see 5800 rpm? Please and thanks.
Sure shows all the labor cost! Trying to decide if I do my LS3 as a stroker, or simply top end upgrades for HP. With 93 Octane. Enjoy your detailed walk through, very educational, thanks.
Subscribed and a few videos into this build, thank you! I bought an 89 chevy van in 2009 with over 500,000km but the engine was rebuilt a few years before i bought it. Five years ago i got a crate for my 40th bday and we swapped it into the van, setting the rebuilt one aside for later rebuild or reuse into a redbird. Hope youre reading this....lmao ......so, i got another van to rebuild that had a knock but zero kms and it ended up needing a crank.......thinking i could use the crank and bits off the old engine i had in the corner to fix this low km engine that needed a crank, we bought a bunch of parts and a gasket kit for a 350 rebuild. Well......damn thing happens to be a 383 and now im stuck with a 350 rebuild kit, no supplier of 350 cranks and dont know where to go from here. Your videos have explained so much so far so im hoping by the end, my questions will be answered. But so far i think we have a 383 "400" crank jammed inside a 350 block with the bolt broke off from trying to turn it. Uuugh....... will comment again when im done the series. Thank you again... 👩🏽👍🏽
Awesome video this is my first time building a 383 always wanted too but now I can save money! I'm following along with the same engine and the same parts.. ready for part 5!!
Good videos, lots of good info ... esp the 383 tips and tricks. The desert landscape looked all too familiar, i am in the east valley when I am not deployed that is....Thanks for the videos.
Apologies I was not trying to be critical I don't believe in that. The internet is full of armchair critics and I'm not one to say anything about engine building either! I was just referring to the oil spilled on the rod heater and that I liked the fact that you have all the right tools and show us how to use them and are not fussy about stuff when you don't need to be.
I had been wandering if I was doing rite by water n soap washing internal engine parts. I had an old dishwasher sitting behind the shop that I'd put internal parts like pistons , rods , bolts , main caps , ext in and stop it towards the end of its cycle and also use an abandoned leaf blower to dry and oil the parts. I've never told anyone this because I figured they would think I'd flipped. A wet hot crankshaft journal will flash rust in seconds , I know this now😬😵😢!!! Great work 👍👍👍👍👍
I bought a 383 stroker it was built a few years ago by a engine builder in town it has never been started. I pulled the pan and the piston skirts are really close to the crankshaft counterweights. Some are four to five thousands. How much clearance do i need to keep from knocking the skirts off the pistons. how would you fix this problem. thank you
ive been watching your channel for awhile very good info..I'm taking this 301 out of my 1980 pontiac and switching to a sbc 350 with small performance upgrades cam,lifters,timing chain,intake,carb etc.. money is tight..what else can I do to beef it up to 355..
WD-40 stand for W=Water D=displacement 40= the number of times it took to get the recipe right. How do I know, I used to work for the company that made the recipe. AEROSOL SYSTEMS in Hudson, Ohio
watched all the videos on this, currently building my 383. find tonight that it looks like my rods might hit my cam. should i install cam, rods, crank and timing chain to check?
Have you ever considered using putty or ticky tack to plug/cover channels and galleys when grinding the block? It seems to me like that could be a good way to help prevent grit from getting into the wrong (if not all) places. Just curious.
Is there an “EASY” way to tell if the engine is actually a 383 I bought a truck and the guy says it’s got the stroker kit from summit racing in it I keep asking him for the paperwork but he’s always got an excuse I’m guessing from the outside the balancer is really the only way
If its external balanced (weighted balancer) than it's a stroker keep in mind there are internal balance stroker kits so it could have a neutral balancer and still be a stroker if it is weighted it is definitely a stroker 350's were all neutral balance at least in the front
Your using a cam with a small circle base? You made a comment earlier that using that will make for valve train issues, so what’s your plain to deal that problem, just curious cause I’m getting ready to build the same engine
Don't they make 383 blocks that already have the clearances grind-it-out? It would seem this is a popular motor why wouldn't manufacturers have 383 ready small blocks?
I just noticed.I don’t think about how much money your making off your job. Or that your even charging for this. I was thinking how much fun your having doing this
I can clearly see that a stroker build will cost at least twice as much as a normal rebuild or performance build just in time and labor alone. If it is done correctly like you do it.
If it's your hobby and you don't mind spending the extra time/effort to build a 383...it really doesn't cost that much more in terms of parts. If you're paying somebody to do the labor then yeah, it'll cost more.
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply i watch all your videos i got a 350 tbi i want big torque and it to sound like a drag engine like whap......whap......whap, like its gonna stall but you can tell its just mad torque and a huge cam. If i get a 383 stroker kit will this work with my 350? If you still build motors id like to have you build mine its going in a mud truck thats gonna daily through the mud
Please don't clearance at home. It's a pita , makes a horrible mess in a clean block, and is never right the first time. Better machine shops have this down to an art, and the block is already in the shop for cleaning, boring, decking and line honing. Package deal.
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Appreciate your videos, been helping me several times. I did an FE 390 - while watching your videos. Now in the process of installing a 383 kit this is great help.
Glad to help
Wow. Never ever would I have ever guessed so many hours into relieveing the block process. That was really good information.
very informative, just got my first stroker motor built , love it , now I know what really goes into it , thank you
There is more coming up on this build I just got real busy with some other projects but I will finish the 383 build stay tuned
When you clearance the block for a stroker build is there any procedure you use to make sure you wont grind into the water jacket? im wondering if maybe partially filling the block with engine block filler would allow me to stroke a small block further than 383 cubes and even if i do grind through it wouldn't matter as i would be going into the block filler and not hitting where water would actually be.
Hey so I'm ready to buy a 383 stroker motor, I have some of the specs and want you to build it. How do I get into contact with you
Your a good teacher. A lot more thorough than most. Thanx.
I keep a decent set of used bearings around for this use, and save the new bearings for final assembly.
Nice vid, I spent a summer in my spare time clearing a 400 sbc that I made into a 434, I had a good time building that engine, it was a great experience for me.
great video. im learning a lot from your 383 stroker engine build videos. thank you for taking the time to show us.
I think it is best to start out with a block that already has stroker clearance, such as a dart SHP block. That way, it saves a lot of labor, and in the end you have a stronger block...ED
thanks for the video. i have build a few engines before, but I'm building my 3rd V8 engine and it's a Dodge 360 bored and stroked to 408. this well be my first time performing the clearance for the H beam rod bolts which are ARP 2000.
1st of all thank you for this information. Summit sells a 383 stroker block will that save me hours of clearance ing and keeping things clean? This is my first stroker build and your information is huge
JUST an FYI. We nerdy guys who love this shit won't mind watching a FFWD of the handiwork. I know it's a lot of work on your end but I've been watching jafro's FFWD'd vids for quite some time now. I find both of your videos very educational. But again...just an fyi. I would watch 40hrs of work if you caan get it into a 30minute video with really good narration and explanation of why you're doing what you're doing and what you're using to do it. Also tool prices, products you like and don't like, things that work for you and are cheap vs things that work for you and are expensive but worth the money in your eyes. These all help produce a picture even more vivid than the one you've already illustrated. GREAT VIDEO! Again. I would like to see even more. lol
I very much appreciate the information that you share. Thank you. During your 383 clearance video you mentioned a hundred thousandths required between the block and rods. Regarding the clearance required between the rods and the cam, I have heard “others” suggest that .050-.060 is acceptable. What is your opinion/suggestion for a 383 street motor that will occasionally see 5800 rpm? Please and thanks.
Sure shows all the labor cost! Trying to decide if I do my LS3 as a stroker, or simply top end upgrades for HP. With 93 Octane. Enjoy your detailed walk through, very educational, thanks.
I am guessing a 350 ci Chevy gives better hp / dollar ? Compared to a 383 ci stroker ?
Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless
Subscribed and a few videos into this build, thank you! I bought an 89 chevy van in 2009 with over 500,000km but the engine was rebuilt a few years before i bought it. Five years ago i got a crate for my 40th bday and we swapped it into the van, setting the rebuilt one aside for later rebuild or reuse into a redbird. Hope youre reading this....lmao ......so, i got another van to rebuild that had a knock but zero kms and it ended up needing a crank.......thinking i could use the crank and bits off the old engine i had in the corner to fix this low km engine that needed a crank, we bought a bunch of parts and a gasket kit for a 350 rebuild. Well......damn thing happens to be a 383 and now im stuck with a 350 rebuild kit, no supplier of 350 cranks and dont know where to go from here. Your videos have explained so much so far so im hoping by the end, my questions will be answered. But so far i think we have a 383 "400" crank jammed inside a 350 block with the bolt broke off from trying to turn it. Uuugh....... will comment again when im done the series. Thank you again... 👩🏽👍🏽
Awesome video this is my first time building a 383 always wanted too but now I can save money! I'm following along with the same engine and the same parts.. ready for part 5!!
is there a part 3 video? Can't seem to find it
Man , your videos are excellent. Some of the best most informative i have seen yet. Love your work.
THX
Good videos, lots of good info ... esp the 383 tips and tricks. The desert landscape looked all too familiar, i am in the east valley when I am not deployed that is....Thanks for the videos.
Your videos are superb!
+Steve W Oh Thanks
I love the fact that he has a full machine shop and tools galore but uses oil straight out of the bottle and doesn't give a care if it spills.
well there is a drip tray under the engine and you need to be generous with your oil
Apologies I was not trying to be critical I don't believe in that. The internet is full of armchair critics and I'm not one to say anything about engine building either! I was just referring to the oil spilled on the rod heater and that I liked the fact that you have all the right tools and show us how to use them and are not fussy about stuff when you don't need to be.
No apologies needed
I had been wandering if I was doing rite by water n soap washing internal engine parts. I had an old dishwasher sitting behind the shop that I'd put internal parts like pistons , rods , bolts , main caps , ext in and stop it towards the end of its cycle and also use an abandoned leaf blower to dry and oil the parts. I've never told anyone this because I figured they would think I'd flipped. A wet hot crankshaft journal will flash rust in seconds , I know this now😬😵😢!!! Great work 👍👍👍👍👍
I bought a 383 stroker it was built a few years ago by a engine builder in town it has never been started. I pulled the pan and the piston skirts are really close to the crankshaft counterweights. Some are four to five thousands. How much clearance do i need to keep from knocking the skirts off the pistons. how would you fix this problem. thank you
+Kerry Fox
Im a machinist , how did you come up with .004? Thats thinner than the size of a human hair? minimum distance is .03
What would happen if you build a motor with a long rod and 4in crank with std bore what would the outcome be in power and reliability
ive been watching your channel for awhile very good info..I'm taking this 301 out of my 1980 pontiac and switching to a sbc 350 with small performance upgrades cam,lifters,timing chain,intake,carb etc.. money is tight..what else can I do to beef it up to 355..
Summit racing has a 350/383 block. Does that mean all the clearances are already accounted for?
Im no expert by far but even if you had an engine that was clearanced you HAVE to check again. Every engines different.
If I got a 383 crank and i put it in and looks like it doesn't need any clearance should I be worried but I did get the crank from Summit Racing
WD-40 stand for W=Water D=displacement 40= the number of times it took to get the recipe right. How do I know, I used to work for the company that made the recipe. AEROSOL SYSTEMS in Hudson, Ohio
I have always had issues with the rods hitting the cam, even on small base circle cams. Specially on those types of rods you used in the video.
I liked it, good V-log. Does torqued rod bolts stretch play in the clearance? BEST OF LUCK FROM SOUTH FLORIDA...
Great video, an great information. You say 100 thous an others say 50 thous?
What are you useing to check your clearances?
How much power will a Stroker make over a 350 all things being the same ?
watched all the videos on this, currently building my 383. find tonight that it looks like my rods might hit my cam. should i install cam, rods, crank and timing chain to check?
Yes you need to check your clearences
Excellent series sir! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and time.
what do you do if you hit water jacket
Have you ever considered using putty or ticky tack to plug/cover channels and galleys when grinding the block? It seems to me like that could be a good way to help prevent grit from getting into the wrong (if not all) places. Just curious.
We jet wash everything and finial wash before assembly
Of course. I only meant that perhaps it could be a helpful aid and/or preventative measure.
Thanks for the response.
Hi Mate
What would you recommended if you hit a water jacket when you are die grinding the clearance on a 383?
find a different block
I save used bearing for this and after marking for counter waits on new crank I use a used crank and rod and pistion for clearance
Is there an “EASY” way to tell if the engine is actually a 383
I bought a truck and the guy says it’s got the stroker kit from summit racing in it
I keep asking him for the paperwork but he’s always got an excuse
I’m guessing from the outside the balancer is really the only way
If its external balanced (weighted balancer) than it's a stroker keep in mind there are internal balance stroker kits so it could have a neutral balancer and still be a stroker if it is weighted it is definitely a stroker 350's were all neutral balance at least in the front
Your using a cam with a small circle base? You made a comment earlier that using that will make for valve train issues, so what’s your plain to deal that problem, just curious cause I’m getting ready to build the same engine
longer push rods
what do think of the poor man 383 stroker were u put the 400 and the 350 together are they any good never dun it but do have a 400 and 350 sitting
It costs more to grind the
400 mains down to a 350 size than to buy an aftermarket cast 383 crank
@@Myvintageiron7512 ok plus u can get a steel crank for a little more thank you
Great videos dude...
Did you remember to put the location dowl in the crank flange, cause you can install the flex plate wrong an start the motor up...it happens..😎✌🍕
great info!
I was with you until the die grinder came out . You do great work buy a mill. If you take .100 off with a mill you will strike water.
I’ve heard the LS stroker kits don’t require block grinding for block clearance?
some don't
Real good....Well done.
What aftermarket heads do u recommend for a 383 stroker?
Don't they make 383 blocks that already have the clearances grind-it-out? It would seem this is a popular motor why wouldn't manufacturers have 383 ready small blocks?
What do you charge to for this work?
Great work and explanations. Thanks.
Yeah great video!
great job on the video, very helpful
Should i get the block bored out or do the clearing first
either way
Cannot get the oversized .030 pistons in if it isn't bored out first. The rod would be out of position when rotating the crank.
What brand of plugs are you going to use
Why didn't you have the gloves on ?
Great vid cant have any collision's inside your motor thats no good. thanks for the build info.
lot of work..
I just noticed.I don’t think about how much money your making off your job. Or that your even charging for this. I was thinking how much fun your having doing this
I can clearly see that a stroker build will cost at least twice as much as a normal rebuild or performance build just in time and labor alone. If it is done correctly like you do it.
True
And there's still guys that'll say "Why would you build a 350 when you could build a 383 for virtually the same price"
If it's your hobby and you don't mind spending the extra time/effort to build a 383...it really doesn't cost that much more in terms of parts. If you're paying somebody to do the labor then yeah, it'll cost more.
There must be a good 500 bucks or so just in doing clearances.
Love your vids brother. Have you ever thought about remaking them in 1080?
Not really mainly because I have no clue how to
By 383 block do you mean a 350 bored 30 over?
no that would be a 355
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply i watch all your videos i got a 350 tbi i want big torque and it to sound like a drag engine like whap......whap......whap, like its gonna stall but you can tell its just mad torque and a huge cam. If i get a 383 stroker kit will this work with my 350? If you still build motors id like to have you build mine its going in a mud truck thats gonna daily through the mud
Please don't clearance at home. It's a pita , makes a horrible mess in a clean block, and is never right the first time.
Better machine shops have this down to an art, and the block is already in the shop for cleaning, boring, decking and line honing.
Package deal.
learning thank you
may I have ur shop number I wnna do a LS motor an stroke it hav question thank you 4 ur time
I don't give out mu number here but you can e-mail me ktorr222@yahoo.com
Why not buy better rods designed for stroker apps? You don't have to do that much
it doesn't matter what rods you use you still need to check all the clearances
Throw away that WD40 and use atf instead...