CNC Router - NEVER DO THIS with your CNC Router Bits and Collets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2023
- Inserting and clamping CNC router bits into the collet of CNC routers is a crucial step in setting up the machine for precise and efficient CNc carving and preventing safety hazards, such as breaking the router bit, ruining the CNC project, or worse, causing injury.
If you're wondering how much of the router to stick into the collet holder, this video will answer that question. This video instructs you on the Do's and Don'ts when installing your CNC router bits into the collet into your CNC machine. You'll learn how tight to make the collet, and how to properly care for it.
Feeds and speeds for all bits are available her → idcwoodcraft.com/pages/databa...
Download the feeds and speeds app for your phone
Apple → apple.co/3IKj9Td
Android → bit.ly/3kmFCfN
Main rules
1. Do not hold only a small part of the router bit shank in the collet
2. Never over-tighten the collet.
3. always clean the collet whenever you do a bit change.
Extended CNC Router Bits from IDC Woodcraft
1/4 long extended down cut endmill → bit.ly/3LGrRSN
1/8 long extended down cut endmill → bit.ly/3NPjEyo
1/4 "HOG" long roughing endmill → bit.ly/3pq1oRK
The "BEAST" CNC router bit → Go to www.IDCwoodcraft.com
Extended length long set → bit.ly/3NQsfAW
All long endmills at IDC Woodcraft → idcwoodcraft.com/collections/...
1/8 ball nose endmill (for 3D work) → bit.ly/3M4a21q
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LONGMILL MK2 CNC ROUTER
Review video → • Expert Insights: Revie...
Website → sienci.com/product/longmill-m...
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ROUTER BITS FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ 11pc carbide CNC router bit set (w/ free vector files) bit.ly/3d1iQnF
→ 1” Surfacing bit required for surfacing your spoil board: bit.ly/2QEYLKz
***Use this discount code (SURFACING BIT)
→ Glass engraving drag bit: bit.ly/3tRy98s
OTHER ‘MUST HAVES’ FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ Calipers: amzn.to/338MAt3
→ Hearing protection (plugs don't work): amzn.to/2Hs1RgW
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Recommended Design Software
→ Vcarve Pro (RECOMMENDED)→ bit.ly/3d4WrEU
→ Vcarve Desktop → bit.ly/3D4CwjH
→ Vectric Aspire → shrsl.com/37pw9
→ Cut2D Desktop → shrsl.com/36xfm
→ Carveco (budget) → bit.ly/37rhVbY
___________________________
Starbond CA Glue Products
GET 10% OFF when you use this discount code: IDCWOODCRAFT
Starbond link: bit.ly/3g81RRU
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_____________________________
MAKING MONEY WITH A CNC
Words are the top-selling items of all time with CNC products. Get the free WORDS THAT SELL list: idcwoodcraft.com/cnc-lp-1/
Join CNC ENTREPRENEURS Facebook group: / cncentrepreneurs
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CNC FREE STUFF AND MORE
CNC Insiders sign up (free files and more): idcwoodcraft.com/cnc-lp2-free...
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NEW TO CNC OR STUCK IN A PROJECT?
Schedule one-on-one time with me: idcwoodcraft.com/for-beginners/
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PLAYLISTS
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CNC ENTREPRENEURS: bit.ly/3mxz6Ok
VECTRIC VCARVE & ASPIRE TUTORIALS FOR BEGINNERS: bit.ly/3pdmFsi
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If you currently own a CNC router, please take a moment to take this survey to share your experience with it: bit.ly/3r5XzNh
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Please support IDC Woodcraft TH-cam channel:
Buy me a cup of coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/garrettf...
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Cool vector files for CNC router & CNC laser: etsy.me/3oxX79l
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CNC FOR BEGINNERS PODCAST: anchor.fm/cnc-for-beginners
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Garrett Fromme
Facebook: IDCWoodcraft
Website: www.idcwoodcraft.com
Email: support@idcwoodcraft.com - บันเทิง
If it wasn't for this guy, I wouldn't be going down the path that I am. Excellent advice, training, customer service and of course, the products! Thank you Garret Fromme!
dnelsongb, I'm truly humbled and glad to be a part of your cnc journey my friend!
This is very helpful instructions on proper setup for router bits. The safety side on this video is very important. A sharp bit spinning at 25,000 rpm’s and coming at you is a very scary proposition.
10:05 pm
Howard, glad to hear this one helped brother! Can never be too safe.
Probably stating the obvious but, it might be worth mentioning that with ER collets, the collet should be snapped into the nut before putting in the bit, or the nut threading on the spindle.
John, good point brother!
I was assigned to a classroom with a Laguna IQ CNC machine. I had no experience with CNC and I'm learning on my own. Your videos have helped me so much. Luckily, our machine has an enclosure because I caused a bit to snap last week. I did exactly what you described. I plan to spend the summer break watching more of your videos and the training from the company so my students can use the machine safely in the fall. Thank you for this video!
Menard, an enclosure is a good idea brother! Safety is #1!
Menard, an enclosure is a good idea brother! Safety is #1!
Really good and important information to get out there for the masses, Garrett. Once again, a superior job on the video, with everything explained in perfect detail. Thank you!
GregSettle, thank you so much for the kind words brother. Im so happy too hear this one helped you out!
How did you know that was my question left over from last night?? Perfect timing! Thanks so much for creating these videos!
Rebecca, you are so welcome. I want to make sure you are off to the right foot.
Very straightforward guide. Good info. Thank you!
Claude, you are so welcome!
Glad I saw this video before playing with CNC for the first time. Very helpful!!!
boomheadshot369, im so glad to hear it brother!
This has to be the most comprehensive tutorial I've seen on this subject... and since I've seen most or close to all of your videos, it's great that you have condensed past thoughts and tips on the subject in this one video. Thanks!
Michael, I am so glad to hear it brother.
This is very useful information that everyone should be aware of. Thanks for this useful video. Great job explaining the safety aspects.
Joe, I am so glad to hear this one helped you brother!
Great video, much appreciated! Safety always first. It can protect your bits, machine, and self. Solid Advice!
Jeff, you bet! I couldn't agree more brother, safety should always comes first!
Great info!!! Thanks for keeping me safe with all the great safety tips.
Alfred, thanks brother! I'm glad it was helpful for you!
Good to know! I'm new to CNC, and this is info I haven't found anywhere else. This is the type of thing they should tell you right off the bat!
MichaelJansen, right on brother! Glad to hear this helped you.
Once again great information. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise Garrett!
Doug, right on! Glad this one helped.
Doug, right on! Glad this one helped.
Thanks for another useful video.
Answered a couple questions I’ve had recently.
Lyle, I am so happy to hear that my friend!
I always learn something from your videos Garrett. Thank you!
Meika, you are so welcome my friend.
Meika, you are so welcome my friend.
Great content, every CNC user should view.
Warren, glad to hear it brother!
Great video. You have the best videos to learn by. Also now I know that there is a button on my router to stop the shaft so I can get the bit to hold before tightening it.
CrSpices, glad to hear you liked this video brother! The button is great for holding the bits for sure.
Great information. I hope new users will take this seriously. Thanks Garrett!!!
David, glad to hear it brother! You are so welcome.
Very helpful! It's good to have a simple rule or two tucked away in the back of my mind to guide my setup process; thank you!
Dan, right on glad you enjoyed this one.
Garrett, Thank you Brother.. your content is ALWAYS germane and informative!!
Roy, you are so welcome brother.
Excellent advice! I will definitely check out your router bits.
rschulz01, right on brother! I'm looking forward to you trying them out soon!
This is a very useful video. Watch it *before* you start playing with your CNC router.
rwilb2, so glad to hear that brother! Happy CNCing.
Great video Garret safety first Thank you...
George, I couldnt have said it better myself!
Love your videos!! You explain everything so well!!
SupperBattleBros, thank you brother! Im so glad to hear this one helped you.
This is a good video. It will help me on my routers that aren't in a cnc
Glad to hear this video helped you brother! Proper chucking of bits is important no matter the tool used.
Thank you! I'm super new to cnc and this was very helpful info for me!
Susie, you're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
Garrett, this is a great video! Thank you.
Rega3160, you are so welcome brother!
Great video, always enjoy your lessons!
Adam, I'm glad it was helpful for you brother!
Great video. A good security feature is to install an anti-wobble micro-switch to the router mount which disconnects the router relay and cuts the power to the router when a pre-calibrated wobble is achieved. Imagine the centrifugal force of 10 grams, offset at a 45° angle, spinning at 16,000 RPM´s, let alone that massive bit in the video, it´s going to shake the hell out of the machine, maybe even rip the router, and its mount, off the crossbar. People are always all too willing to try and beat the system to get things done. A flying router bit, big or small is a lethal projectile that will kill you.
Raymond, that is a great idea brother! All good points.
Thanks for doing these videos always helpful 😊
Kennith, you are so welcome brother!
Finally, something I can understand. Well presented. I've been guilty of most of the "don'ts" you mentioned. So far, I've been very lucky it would seem. Thanks for explaining this in such a way that even I can understand it. Cheers from Australia, mate. 🇦🇺🇺🇸👍
Chris, right on brother! Glad to hear this one helped you.
Great video. Very informative
Glad to hear this one helped you brother!
as always great information, clear and well explained, I've had this problem myself and broke the beast, after a conversation with Garret I changed the way I chucked up to this method , the visual presentation of that conversation has improved the way I work even more, thanks Garret and team you keep us all going in the right direction.
Carl, you're so welcome brother! I'm glad having the video to reference from our conversation was helpful! I'm happy to be a part of your cnc journey and hopefully make things a little easier along the way! Happy cutting!
Thank you again Garrett!!, this is valuable information.
Nwnimbleman, you are so welcome!
Another great info video! Thank you.
Tim, you are so welcome!
Valuable information! Will put it to good user for sure!
WynandSchoonbee, I'm glad it was helpful brother!
New info for me, thank you for the extremely Important instruction
Len, glad to hear this helped brother!
Good info, will always try to remember.
Jim, right on. Keep learning everything you can!
Great information
TheVideotoaster, glad you liked this one my friend.
Great information!
John, thanks brother! Glad it was helpful!
great information and I learned a few things
Michael, right on brother! Glad to hear it.
Great video my friend !
LouisDesChamps, glad to hear this one helped brother!
Thank you. This is a great lesson to learn. Over tightening is one if the reasons I do my own car repairs. Too many times bolts and nuts are excessively over tightened leading to stripped heads and threads.
Justin, exactly! I'm glad the video was helpful brother, it's definitely similar to tightening down bolts on the car to the right torque specs and not over doing it. Couldn't have said it better myself! Happy cutting!
Just noticed you have one on one's on your website. That's brilliant.
atamazon, thanks brother! Kate is an excellent teacher and I know you will get a lot out of booking a one on one with her.
great video. very useful info.
tjacksonwoodworker3726, right on brother! Glad to hear this one helped you.
GREAT INFORMATION
Ken, I'm glad it was helpful brother!
Thank you. Great video.
michelle_jansen, you are so welcome! Happy to hear this video helped you my friend.
Thanks Garrett! Great info!
Rick, you are so welcome brother!
Rick, you are so welcome brother!
Many thanks good practise to follow
Pod, you are so welcome!
Sir when you place a bit too far into the spindles/routers drive shaft and bottom it out or you place a large bit against the surface of the nut you are not allowing room for the collet and bit to move into the clamping taper as you tighten the chuck. This will result in a bit that has no place to move. The shaft or body of the bit is now constrained. So as you tighten the collet you will ether produce a side force and or a down force that will cause your bit to have run out and or uneven side pressures on the collet. This will result in the runout ether creating vibration or the side force will let go and thus you will have a loose bit. I have seen this occur numerous times in my CNC guild and at work and thus I highly recommend that you add it into the category of don't do this!
Mjjeanson, you bring up quite a lot of good points brother. I appreciate you sharing your perspective, I will add this to future videos.
After years of running Bridgeports, and milling machines, you are 100% correct!!
Ozguzzi, glad to hear it my friend.
Good Advice Thanks
CB1000, no problem. I am happy to help!
Absolutely another great video, Garrett!! This definitely is perfect for the beginner and a good refresher for the folks who've been doing this awhile. We're all guilty of doing this at some point, so this is a great reminder on how to chuck our bits properly and safely. Everyone that watches this will be more mindful of it now.
If you ever start to categorize your videos, consider putting this in your "A Beginner's Guide to CNCing with Garrett Fromme" series. 😁❤
I can also help produce it if you'd like....ya know, a Deniro and Scorsese type thing. I think it would be a highly anticipated event.🤣
Coincidentally, I got my new 3/16 compression bit today and I can't wait to use this sucker. 😃👍
Joe, I am so happy to hear that this one helped you. You can never be too safe in the shop! Glad to hear you got your new bit!
Super interesting and helpfulI video I dont even own a CNC machine yet but Like to learn so when i do buy one I will have Good habits and knowledge. Thanks i wish for more videos
Nick, welcome to the amazing world of CNC my friend! I'm glad the videos have been helpful so far and I'm looking forward to you getting your machine and seeing what you create!
I decided to make sure a broken bit never impales my handsome face by mounting a piece of Plexiglas to the front of my router. All I did was attach two magnetic cabinet latches to the bottom of the plastic shield and then to the front of my table. Now, I just flip the shield up when the router is running.
I also have a smoke alarm and fire extinguisher in case I do something stupid like go upstairs while the router is running.
Roger, that is a very good idea brother! You can never be too safe around a CNC.
Good stuff as always. Would like to see more information on the longer bits. I have been very frustrated with them as they tend towalk out and destroy my project. Maybe feeds and speeds? They care so useful when needing to do a deep pocket.
Thanks
Doug
Doug, feeds and speeds for long bits can be tricky but for those longer bits, slower feeds tends to be safer.
Good info. Makes sense as well.
CharlieSelkins, glad to hear it brother!
Thanks Garrett!
GregSettle, you are so welcome my friend. Thank you for the support
Thank you Mr. Peter Weller of CNC Doohickies. I will make sure that ClarenCNC Bitdecker doesn't hurt me or the City of Detroit.
blur-media-co3512, glad this one helped you brother!
Great video! These are points that most people are unaware of. Because no one talks about it. I also have machines enclosed for extra protection. The bit can turn into a bullet.
Billy, glad to hear you liked this one my friend.
Billy, glad to hear you liked this one my friend.
extremely useful points made. I have been a woodworker all my life and never looked into this subject in this detail. I thought I knew it all. But don't we do that.
Allistair, never quit learning brother! It will pay off in the end.
Thanks, I learned a lot
Shawn, you are so welcome!
useful video, thanks!
DALG, glad to hear it brother!
Most users of ER collets use ER11 3mm to 1/4" and sizes between , which is significantly smaller than the ER20 you're showing. Ive always been told you need to fully enclose the bit shank within the upper taper can exceed, but not shorter!
JohnColgan, good points brother! Having the proper clamping on an ER collet is critical.
Another Great Video
JimKing, glad to hear it brother!
I cant believe that no one else has discussed this important topic! From the Makita palm router manual, they also state to use the wrenches provided, and to never tighten rhe nut/collet without a bit in them. This can cause collet deformation. Surprised Makita doesn't address these specifics!
CornerStone, glad to hear you found this helpful then brother!
great info thank you
PaulS-wg8fr, glad you liked this one brother!
Very helpful
3sonssigns, right on brother. Im glad to hear it.
Thanks a lot for the info
Georgi, no problem brother! Happy to help.
I have been dealing with routers and bits for all of my adult life and for me the rule of thumb is the bottom of the shank at the end of the collet is perfect inserting beyond that the collet isn’t holding the bit anyways, now on a cnc you can’t always be certian of your depth but as long as I am at least that far in confidence is high
Jeff, thanks for sharing your insights brother! Your method seems to work well for you my friend and I say keep doing what works best for you! As the saying goes there's a thousand ways to skin a cat! Happy cncing!
All good info.
sfg18b, glad it was helpful!
Another great video, i'm still learning. Keep up the great work.
I was wondering if a guideline could be placed on bits in the manufacturing process??
Stephen, thanks brother! The guide line is an interesting idea, I've have a similar thought like that too. I'll keep you in the loop!
Solid info as always Garrett!! I had always been taught & heard to never bottom out your bits but never an explanation as to why. My father taught me to bottom out the bit then pull out about 1/4 inch or to clear the flutes. He always maintained that the shank should always be inserted to the length of the collet at a minimum for maximum grip. He did have a tendency to firm on the the clamping pressure tho.
I can attest to how scary it is to have a bit snap on you!! Was using a good sized ogee bit in a 1-1/2HP router and it snapped just above the body of the bit. I was taking multiple light passes in a piece of walnut but it was a cheap bit. Thank the Lord it flew away from me when it snapped as it blew through the drywall 10 feet away from me!!! If it had come the other way I'd be sporting a new belly button at best and I don't want to think about the worst case scenario!!!!!! After that I have sworn off trying to save a $1 on those cheap bits!!
Paramoose, glad to hear this one helped you brother! I could see your fathers perspective and he has some very good points.
great video. wish it was around 30 years ago. I had a bit to come went pasts my head and stuck in the wall on the other side of my shop
Henry, very funny brother! Glad you liked this one.
Garrett
Good job It always amazes me, how many people skips the basics
One thing you might have mention is some collets and collet nuts snap together making 2 pieces into one , they have a. Tendency for the nut to not tighten up properly.
Also you where talking about the hardness of router bits ,I have drop them on the concrete floor and damage to them I do look them over careful I throw away and that hard but not taking a chance
I have had boards and other thing get loose and do have small wounds lucky nothing real serious 24:13
Play safe
John, you are exactly right brother! Cant be more safe in the shop.
Thank you
Matthew, you are so welcome.
The real issue as I see it with this Makita router (which I have also) is that the collet is only single locking using a collet cone rather than a spring collet. These are not self-centring and increase runout on the bit....after all, this Makita unit is design as a 1HP palm router rather than specifically being a CNC spindle. I push my bits full depth and withdraw it a little, so any runout that is being introduced is as minimal as possible. I absolutely would not advocate using wide heavy bits in that single-locking collet arrangement, as any vibration can be disastrous. Absolute agreement about the spindle lock button. It's only good for spinning up the nut by hand, nothing more. A big problem that I see in the design of this palm router is that the rear commutator bearing is held within the plastic housing....not a very stable or vibration free idea. It's a palm/trim router. We have to manage our expectations, moreso when safety is a factor. Cheers!
Tristan, all fair points my friend! Thanks for sharing your insight and perspective!
Thanks for share your knowlege! is there a reduction to 1/8 bits for the Makita router?
Great video for those new cnc owners that perhaps never touched a trim router before. Seems like common sense to most of us but maybe not to those who DON'T run these kind of tools all the time
24:06 Common sense is far too uncommon.
@B. Koehli, KC (retired) agreed, there's a whole lot of stupid out there
Steve, glad to hear it. It is a good lesson in safety for sure!
you should not bottom out the bit into the hole. It causes the bit to slide in the sides of the ER collect and can damage them. Also can prevent you from correctly tightening the ER collect correctly because you now have 2 forces pushing and not just 1. if you bottom out, just back off 1/4 inch or 5-6mm.
This said, I think this is a great video for people. very educational.
K, good call my friend. I could definitely see your perspective on this one.
@@IDCWoodcraft we all learn from each other. I have learned allot from your videos and enjoy them.
saving this one.
Edward, right on brother. Good call.
Edward, glad you liked this one. Good call!
Edward, glad you liked this one. Good call!
Excellent information. Thanks Garrett. I searched for guidance on this when I first got my CNC, but I couldn't find much about it, so it's great you put together such an incredible explanation.
tpsooner7816, thanks brother! I'm glad to help!
Add a drill bit debt stop collar to your router bits. You will always have enough grip and when using a jig you get a very similar cutting debt (within micro millimetres) incase you have to change your bit because it's dull or broken. No Z adjustment . Also you know the difference in cutting debt between different bits. Easy to adjust the Z hight when you have a tool change.
aragorndedolor4171, that is a great idea brother! I like that.
On large cutters, I have always gone by the rule of "no more than 2 shank diameters" sticking out (no more than 1/2" on a 1/4" shank bit), that way if it's a different manufacturer with a different shank length you'll still be safe with those big boys
Ben, very true brother. That is a great rule.
I really enjoyed your presentation this subject. It was loaded with lots of valuable information and I learned a lot. I do have a question about the collets. I don't have a CNC, but I do have routers. I was wondering if the CNC "labled" collets are specific for CNC's or can they be used in handheld routers, as well? I will appreciate and feedback.
user-ns3nn1ik1n, glad to hear this one helped you brother! Most collets designed for CNC spindles wont fit in a handheld router. I would recommend that you purchase a collet specific for your handheld router my friend.
Great timing for this video! Was looking for some tutorials on bits and collets, and there are surprisingly few videos online. Just one question: I have the same Makita router (part of the Bobs CNC Quantum machine). It says it uses 1/4" shank bits, which I bought, but I have to force them into the collet. They don't just slide easily into the collet like in your video. I'm just confused if I need smaller bits, or if I do something wrong.
Thanks for the great content Garrett!
There are two things that could be wrong here. Either your collet is a 6 mm collet or it is just undersized.
Thanks Garrett especially from this newbie of CNC. Here's a thought. Why don't they just add/engrave recommended place markers on the bits like on a car dip stick? Anyway, I appreciate the lesson. I am an extremely new beginner to the CNC (a 30x30 Longmill CNC 🙂, even watched your review) and this helps me understand and do things correctly. Cheers!
JKArgonis, Excellent suggestion brother. I'll have to keep that in mind for the future!
Actually you dont have the long bit i want.. LOL I ordered the rough cut one but the other ones out of stock.. I put in my email so holler when you got em!! thanks for the videos
ClinToneCust23, sorry that one bit is out of stock! Once it is back in, you will be the first to know!
I've literally had end mills explode and send fragments of sharp tool steel flying all around me. One large shard passed so close to my scalp that it touched my hair before embedding in a steel window frame. I've even had a carbide insert pass through the 14 ga. steel machine enclosure and hit the wall beside me as I was walking by. The operator had over tightened the set screw to the point it split, thereby greatly reducing the holding force.
Machining can be very dangerous, even when you are an expert journeyman with many years of experience. It is even more dangerous for a hobbyist. Garrett is providing good advice, so pay attention and take it to heart.
Gaius, you can never be too safe around a CNC my friend! Glad to hear you didnt get hurt.
@@IDCWoodcraft Thanks. I've shed my share of blood in shops, but it was most often from burrs slicing open fingers and metal shavings coming through the soles of my work boots.
As I tell new workers in a shop environment, everything is actively working to kill you every single day. Don't let that happen.
Great video Garret. Also do not buy cheap Chinese bits. They break easily. I bought some before I found your site. Although I am in Australia orders still come quickly. I have had a break from CNC as I have been learning laser engraving. I will be getting back into CNC shortly after I install a new spindle on my 6040. Fortunately I have one in stock as I was expecting the spindle to fail eventually as the one supplied was not great quality.
Peter, very good point my friend!
Very good video! For your Hog bit which is a down bit. Why not an Up cut bit?
bryansmith1303, sorry for the confusion on this one brother! The HOG is an upcut!
I always set mine as far in as it can go and still cut what I want. I do not go more then half way up the bits smooth area. I also use less cut per pass if it is out farther.
JerryPeevey, great point brother! It sounds like you have a good system there!
We all need to think safety first, and most of us need a reminder from time to time
Derek, I couldn't agree more my friend! Happy cutting!
Great tips! But I'm sorry, I have to politely disagree with the bottoming out of the bit in the collet. It's got nothing to do with heat transfer or whatever, but if the bit extends past the bottom of the collet (not the cutting side) then as it gets tight, it can stop you from tightening it fully because the collet has grabbed on to the bit before reaching full turns with the nut, especially if you have a collet nut that is quite tight to begin with.
Paradise, very good point my friend. I could see your perspective on this one.
What about the use of spaceballs to minimize overheating of the bit as well as the sticking of the bit in the router.
William, using spaceballs is a great idea. I'll have to do some research on that one brother, thanks!
Thanks for the information in this video Garrett!
Considering the router itself, what is its proper depth in the z bracket? It would seem there's potential for fulcrum force based on leverage from the bit feed if the router extends too far down.
Gary, that is a very good point. You will need to follow the manufacturer recommendations but typically as low as possible is acceptable for this one.
Gary, that is a very good point. You will need to follow the manufacturer recommendations but typically as low as possible is acceptable for this one.
Nice,a little redundant but gets the point of importance to pay attention across
SamSpade, so glad to hear this one helped you brother!
Hey Garrett, just getting started in the CNC world. I just ordered one of your 1.5 surfacing bits. So the 1/3 rule applies for this bit?
Great question. It applies to all router bits
Good info. I have not seen this said before. So here's my question. I know that they sell them but I was thinking of getting a bunch of shaft collars and putting them on my bits so when I change the bit in the middle of a job I don't have to worry about zero height as much. Is there any chance of throwing off the balance of the bits by doing this? Thanks
That's a great question! You want to find balanced collars. These are colors that have been spun up and have had material removed in certain spots to make sure they're in balance at high rotation