" Going through ring and pinions like nobody's business." Best wine in the whole video. Always enjoy the content, Keep it coming.!! You really inspired me to do a lot of my own fabrication over the last few months, I love it. And I've noticed recently. That you're editing. Camera work, etc. Has all gotten better. Keep up the good work.!!
@@DirtLifestyle A 1991 K5 Blazer with a 285 SAE HP 350 that weighs 6000 lbs with 30 spline 10 bolts and 37×12.50's, would I need a full float 14 bolt, just get the c-clip elimination kit, or leave the axles stock ?
@@gen1c8rs88 Driving style plays a large role in how things survive as well. The 14B FF rear axle will be fine, the 10 bolt front may hold up if you leave it open and don't get on the throttle when turned it should be fine.
@@gen1c8rs88 if you want to wheel hard on rocks, one tons are the way to go. Going slow on slick rock, then your axles will be fine... I put one tons under my 89 K5 as I climb rocks hard here in CO.
@@DirtLifestyle I'm off today doing alot of nothing, rest, and rebuild (myself). So I'm on TH-cam looking at kustoms, Holdener's channel, Mustangs, Jeep stuff, etc. So I want to ask the question nobody has asked. How do you feel about the super 35 kits? The application is a 2004 WJ, stock everything except it's on 33s maybe 35s one day but probably not. Light weekend wheeling with the fam., very minimal weight added. My main rear axle I was looking at was an iron Dana 44.
No need for an apology. I watch for the information you provide and the great entertainment. Keep building my TH-cam friend and don’t stop doing what you do!
I have been a disco owner for 12 years now, and I have dreamt about doing this same thing for the last 10 of them but lack the Know-how. Thank you for your hard work, research, and disco love!
Hey, I just wanted to tell you as an owner of 3 jeeps, but not very mechanically inclined, I really enjoy your videos. I don't do alot of work on my own rigs so I have to pay to have the majority of the stuff done but the reason I love your videos is at least I can understand what exactly is being done and the reason behind it. VERY information, thank you!
2016 JKUR 4" Mopar lift, Yuon 4:88's, Gusseted "C's" , RCV 32 spline Front shafts, Ten factor 32 spline rear shafts, 37's Milestar Patagonia's. Shaved stock rear bumper, Poison Spyerfront bumper. I dont carry a ton of gear since I dont wheel alone. Wheelign style is easy on the $$$$ pedal,and I hit Easy to moderate trails in Washington/Snow wheeling. I consider my build mild, and capable with decent reliability. Just as long as you know when to let off, and pull cable. Everything breaks...............EVERYTHING. It is all on how you treat it. Ya got to...... "If you're gonna play the game, boy You gotta learn to play it right You've got to know when to hold 'em Know when to fold 'em Know when to walk away And know when to run"
I had a 78 Jeep Cherokee Chief for a while, had a T18 4 speed, Dana 20 transfercase with center output and an offset Dana 44 rear axle. The offset rear axle was what most Cherokees had because the quadratrac transfercase had the offset to the right with a rear output. Drove that thing quite a bit and never had any issues with joints or driveline. One tons are so cute and girly. I have a set of Axletech 4000s that are going to find their way under one of my M715s soon.
my brother and I did the rubicon last week in his old 4runner on 38.5's with a 1 ton rear and smaller solid axle front that my brother swapped in with a wimpy 3.0L v6 geared super low. It was my first time wheeling and I'm hooked. my bro did most of the fabrication work himself and it turned out well. by the time we made it to observation point both of the rear shock mounts had failed, but the leaf springs got us home. I am now beginning my search for my own rig. I am leaning towards a 1st generation tundra with a 4.7L v8 as my canvas. thanks for the videos. Your presentation is very straight forward and clear. you obviously know your stuff.
Glad you uploaded this video, I have a FSJ Cherokee Chief on 40's , Custom 3 link in the front and a shackle flip in the rear ( I fabbed up everything ) I got it weighed (With a front and rear set of wilwood Big Brake calipers and rotors, as well as a bunch of other junk that shouldn't have been in there when I got it weighed. ) It came in right at 5k Lbs, People give me a lot of weird looks being on 40's and Dana 44's, And a lot of oh you're going to destroy your axles and this that and the other, But the truth is, its a 40 year old truck with a body in amazing shape, I'm not going to be wheeling the snot out of it and destroying the body, Some back road's and camping with capability to do some harder trails if need-be. The front axle Has RCV's in it and very nice ring and pinion, The back is the same but with stock axles (Yikes) . I'll continue to drive it this way unless I Break things, But then I have the 4wp warranty for 5 years so I'll just get replacement parts for free.
super helpful I'm always trying to find info especially on newer axles, currently building a pair of 9" hybrid axles a 9" center 44 outer front and a 9" w/ 14 bolt hub 35 spline ARB rear.
Good video bro. So very true! Weight means more power needed. I went 1 tons because I daily drive my Jeep. And spent many times coming from browns camp with a broken stub shaft clicking all the way home to work on the Jeep so I can get to work the next day. So now I can wheel it drive home. Go to work hahaha. Just makes it a bit more bullet proof. Now I want to build a 14 bolt front. For my 69 Chevy service truck!
Great video. You talk specific issues, no messing around. Not looking to do your type of rock crawling, just some overland and beach drives. I'm thinking 8.8 rear axle and maybe Dana 35. Your info helps my decision-making. Thanks again.
I’ve broken 30 spline stubs and lockouts. My brother running the same axle has as well. Spiced solid joints have held up pretty well. I finally upgraded to 35 spline stubs and flanges.
Wise words, and as always..great content! You’re so right about the weight....it sneaks up on you with all the crazy bumpers and gear on the market. The unsprung weight itself is actually insane when you add a D60, D80, and big tires, calipers, etc. My truck is a completely different vehicle when unloaded and no rack. I was at 8700 lbs empty and I realized I was already legally at full GCVW....I had to start lightening things up and it makes a big difference.
Absolutely 100% correct with everything you said. 36" tires on my xj with d44 up front and stock 8.25 in back. Weight is key, I don't carry a spare cause it's heavy.
Good video as always. In the UK we fit Nissan y61 Axel's onto discovery 2 running gear. The rear axle has the diff in the centre with a wide angle prop shafts there is no problems. They are also running 40s.
Excellent Vid, Nate! The thing I most like about your videos is the information and technical considerations you present. You are always on point. Please, never, ever dumb it down for us. I come here to learn, not just to "See what everyone else is doing". I need the nuts and bolts of WHY people do what they do. I finally learned exactly why (in this vid) you are able get away with running built 44's on your JK , and all the considerations to take into account when deciding which axle to use! BIG THANKS to you, Brother. Keep your vid's tech and rationale heavy. I for one, eat that kind of stuff up... and while I'm at it, put this in your pocket: We are more knowledgeable Jeepers because of the time and effort you put into your presentations! Keep em coming! Ay Corona! :)
Been running my 99-04 60 for 2 years with original shafts and joints from the JY. Finally after 2 years I broke a lockout.... that’s with a welded carrier, 5.38s, 41.5 Rockers.
I am currently building a 1977 K5 Blazer and I have swapped in 1-ton axles already. Curb weight on this thing is about 4600 lbs with a SBC 350 engine. I will be going with a BBC 454, 4L80E transmission and NP205 T-Case. Those along with the steel winch bumper on front and steel swing tire bumper on back adds a lot of weight. Add on the 37's I plan to run and that adds a lot of stress to the axles. Luckily for me the axles I picked up (14B FF in rear and Kingpin D60 in front) bolt right in with very little modifications.
This video was perfect timing. I'm looking up 1 tons on a 4runner and needed something to watch while looking, and you happened to release a video about actually needing them or not. Now I'm even more confused on what I want. lol
I got the 3 link 4 link kit from them years ago for my 97 tj kingd60 14b. Awesome parts prices and people. I drag a 20' shipping container with 2 big 1000# safes in it. Like 7000# just dragging it around. Big oaks on my property in tn. I love my TJ on tons little tractor with coilovers
I run 1 ton axles that came with my 2010 f250. Running 6in lift on 40s. I wheel hard. I am the only guy out of my crew that a) hasn’t blown their axle up, b) haven’t had wheel bearing failure, and c) haven’t had excessive brake wear or caliper failures. Not to mention I haven’t been replacing wearables either (such as ball joints). I hate having broken parts and having to work on something just to make it work (working on something to make it better is a different story). The only thing a Dana 60 gives up is weight and ground clearance, but you gain time between rebuilds, less parts breakage, ability to run bigger tires and more in the end more time wheeling less time fixing broken stuff.
Low buck option for the front axle u-joint ears issue- weld a plate on the outside ala Iron Rock Offroad's "Almost Alloy" caps for the D30. Reinforces the weakness of the ears' thin wall and reduces 'warping' under heavy load. Not as cool as RCVs, but buys time to save the scratch while usin' yer rig...
Hay Nate, I am building a 1977 Chevy k20 "low buck Diesel truck". Love your videos and will eventually be building sliders and a few other things for it with inspiration from your videos. I am also trying to film and post my progress and experience along the way, trying to post the first video mid next week introducing the project and my plans for it. I live in the Seattle area, any chance you would want to go wheeling once I finish the motor swap and build?
Do you mall crawl with your four door wrangler? Dana 44s are fine. Do you hit Johnson valley on 40s with hellcat power litebrite style? Pro rock 60 and 80 is what you need. Also the 05+ axles are 72 inches wms and run a deeper backspacing wheel. The sterling axles are offset pinion not centered like a 14 bolt. Might be able to use it to your advantage.
Watching this build with intense interest. I just picked up a 1967 Land Rover Series IIA and want to do much the same to it. The rear axle is already a one ton, but I hope to change the suspension to what it looks like you are about to do. Also glad to see you have better filters on that mask.
Good fun. I redid the JKR44 front in mine. Bought it in pieces, tubes had broke. Retubed with 3/8" wall DOM, has Barnes and Ballistic pieces, 4.88 and e locker. Have fun pressing the tubes out of the pig. Hope you have access to a lathe! :)
Good detail Nate! Definitely more for me to consider with the direction on my axle swap I need to do! I’m running my Dana 30 Dana 44 package with 3.73 on my JKU with 37’s and working to decide how to go. Excited to check out the fab video!
Awesome, glad to hear these 1 tons are reasonably priced.....i am planning an epic build..... Scratch built overlanding rig with everything you listed and more, so yes, it will have multiple 1 ton axles, Dana 80's with a rear mounted 8.3 Cummings an Allison 1,000 with overdrive. I know it will jack the price way up, but i believe it will be way more efficient to have automatic lockers instead of manual locking hubs
Hey Nate, if not already done so might want to check the motor for slipped liner issues. The 4.6’s are notorious for it. Only fix is a full rebuild using a block that has ‘top hat’ liners installed... or an LS swap. Great content, keep it coming 👍
I took 5 inches out of my 03 F350 axle for my YJ. I shortened it myself and had Dutchman respline the passenger shaft. In the end, I wish I had left it stock length.
Hell to the yes. I kept the radius arms when I swapped in tons. Can’t wait to see how you link yours! When this damn quarantine is over I def wanna come check out your garage.
Welded little caps on mine got tired of them breaking. They held up pretty good after that. If the joint goes bad I'd have had to grind it back off but lasted me 2 years before I sold it!
Im running a fully built Discovery 2 on 35s with HD Rover axles and air lockers. These trukcs are heavy, but the HD Rover axles have been fine so far. 37's are my goal as well, but like you agree that an axle swap is a must. Although since my axles are already built. Im starting with the LS swap before I swap out axles. Look forward to seeing how this turns out!!!
I run 37s on Rover housings under a D1 w/4.6. I've done pretty much every upgrade I can on these but I know I still have to drive 'nice' with them or I'll be walking. 35s I feel pretty comfortable with; I have friends running stock 24 spline shafts with 35s. But that's on the full float D1 axle where when he does break a shaft he can swap it in a few minutes. (I believe 7 min from break to moving is his record). He just uses the shaft as a fuse to save anything more expensive.
Based on your recommendation(and what I can afford) I've gone with the high pinion d30 from a Cherokee, trussed and an ox. Ford 8.8 rear. I understand I will be pushing it but I'm going to run 37s. I will get chromoly or cv eventually. For now I'm gonna do some light wheeling with the guys. I've wanted 37s ever since I purchased this jeep when I was 15 and it had 33s at the time. I'm 27 now and have never broken anything while offroad with the d35 and d30 that came with the jeep. I hope the 8.8 and hp30 are as good to me as these axels have been. Thank you and keep up the hard work!
Also bro. I used to run a 14 bolt rear. And wow. That weight killed my performance with 456 gears on 40s. With Heavy ass H1 locks. Snow runs it was always ass heavy. So my buddy and I headed to a junk yard. Dug thru axles for 4 hours. I was looking for a HD 60 rear. Factory 35 spline. And I found one. 4 hours later lol. 100$ buy . Slapped some 456 gears in it and it’s been a solid setup. Nothing against the 14 bolt. Just for my setup it has been nice. Much more balanced setup for the cj7.
Good videos, good information. I haven't read every comment so.... If what I'm about to say has been convered - sorry. 😬 1) what year model is your 99-04 axle? You probably already know this, but it may benefit your viewers to discuss the 99-02 & 03/04 issues. If you're unfamiliar, reach out. 2) 2003-2014 all used the same 1480 u-joints. They didn't go to 1550 u-joints until 2015. 3) look for a 2011+ rear differential and you might get lucky and find a factory electric locker before you re-gear.
I got my frontier build planned, full Titan-swap the front end knuckles and all to get the more common 6x5.5 lug pattern, and a full float 12bolt from a van in the rear gets the track width on par with factory tracking setup and 40inch tires on diy beadlocked steelies although I was considering the 3 piece internal beadlocked wheels and match the gears at 4.56 on either e-lockers or airlockers.
I have a 2003 land rover discovery I put a complete gm running gear in it including axles. I am only running 33s I may go up to 35s so 1/2 ton axles will do fine. I put a corporate 10 in the front and a isuzu rodeo rear axle which is a heavy duty dana 44 and it was the right width and disk brakes.
Like I’ve said before great video brotha! One of my favorite shows was Xtreme 4x4 and I’d say you’re subs would agree you are the new version of that show. Love your stuff man! Keep doing what you’re doin!!!!!!
My 95 yj. Has a stock dana 30 in the front with chromoly’s. I have a ford 8.8. Stock shafts with a spartan locker. 4.56 gears all around. And 37” tires. It has yet to break since I’ve been using it. I daily this and crawl it hard on the weekends. I want Tons. When i do the GenRight 3 link front 4 link rear. And have 40’s. Or maybe even 42’s.
I like how you did this. Detailed information upfront, then follow-up with the fab videos. I would also appreciate it if you state when you deviate from your original plan and why. A written compilation of parts used and part numbers/OEM application with the last fabrication video would be awesome. When I build/modify a vehicle, I build a spreadsheet with this information sorted by part type. (similar to online rockauto catalog) The spreadsheet makes finding replacement parts easy. The spreadsheet can be printed, laminated and stored in the vehicle glove box for road trips.
Hope your family stays healthy during these crazy times. Also, I love these "informational" style videos. Knowledge is power. Also 69K views and only 3K likes? Come on now people, he's doing youtube full time now show him some love hit that like button.
I'd love a gearing video I'm thinking 37 or 40x15.5 it's already have 1 ton 60s I'm not sure if the 4.10s will be adequate enough to run either size running 33s now
Great video as always. Appreciate all the extra info even if it doesn't apply to what I'm personally building. If the video was twice as long I'd still watch it all.
Great info! Look forward to the build. For those without your skills and tools , those looking at a single build, can you Ballpark parts only cost of axles compared to ordering up a complete bolt-in ready set from a manufacturer like Dan, Currie or Dynatrac? Granted, your LR build might be more costly than a TJ but ballpark so we see how much this project could save even though the learning curve could be high.
Great video, thanks, I have a variety of land rovers fro a 1968 to a 02 Disc, the reason land rover put the pumpkins both on the right is so you go over a rock on the left and miss hitting them
Wow that was a lot of really good info. I see why your putting 1tons in the land rover. I cant wait to see how you do the front axle, that looks like its going to be a real challenge.
Very funny. You say you've never seen stubs break on the 04 down axles. I personally broke both on the same day. Very odd, only issue I've had with them but I'm currently working on a 3 link with a 2010 axle. Reason being larger 1550 ujoint option and wider to match available wheels without spacers(no im not a fan of spacers). can't wait to see more of the build and I think the axles will be great under that rig.
Hey the information is just part of what we do and I love seeing all of it. And I can’t believe anyone would say this thing doesn’t need 1 tons I mean shawty thicc! Can’t wait for the next video! I’m curious what your going to end up doing about the center section. Ive shortened axles but I’ve never seen someone essentially relocate a pumpkin, that’d be interesting to see! And I love fabricating trusses, one of my favorite things to do as far as automotive fabrication
I am sooo looking forward to this developing. I am currently fitting HD diff pans to my Land Rover axles and am considering custom truss fabrication. Keep these great videos coming!!
Can't wait to see the next video. I've got some axles on the way. I've been told you should drain the fluid and remove the internals before you grind or weld. Didn't look like you did that for grinding. Someone told me recently to leave it all in because the fluid and extra mass help pull the heat out. What do you think?
have a rover myself Questions? what are you going to do with the front diff angle? parallel? or pointed? what kind of front drive shaft? double cardan joint or? aaaaaand very interested in the rear offset decision...
Need? I know for a fact that I don't "need" them for a daily driver/weekend wheeler on 33-35" tires. Want? Absolutely. I like the benefits. Full float rear, easier maintenance, more room for packaging...and a bit of additional piece of mind with all the larger components.
Love that vid. Seems like everyone is always crying out need one tons 44 are not a up grade. A lot of variables. 2 door JK 35s rockjock 44 Detroit Locker carbon chromoly shafts seems like a decent upgrade to me. 4,500lb Torson lsd rear d44 also carbon chromoly shafts .
Great video👍🏻 I decided to keep my stock axles on my xj. Don’t plan on going over 35s. Just recently did the wj knuckle swap and install truss and c gusset brackets. Thinking about putting a axle tube sleeve kit also. I have some offset heim joints from Barnes, they are beefy!
Hey Nate, keep up the good content, I love it! The only bone I had to pick was the 10.5 has 1.5" 35 spline shafts and the 14 bolt also has 1.5" shafts but the spline pitch is larger resulting in 30 splines for the same diameter. Again, killer content and I can't wait to see the passenger drop conversion!
Something I've always believed in was over axle under power. Small motor with beefy axles. I'm running a typical yota setup with 38s and it done good. Now I had a s10 blazer with ton axles and 37s that drug axle everywhere. Very good video
I know the Willys pickup had an offset transfer case rear output and a center diff spicer 53 rear axle. It worked just fine. Also, I don't know if it's true but I'd heard that the Sterling ring gear bolts have a tendency to back out. Someone told me that the dana 70 ring gear bolts cure this problem.
What is the weight that would tip it over that you would need to swapped out for 1tons? 6k.. 7k? Does length or wheel base matter when deciding axels? Is it possible to create a graph or diagram of all the variables for choosing the right axel. I know your saying you can beef up the axels so maybe it dosent matter. Sorry I'm new and trying to learn .
There is no magic number. The general use can't really be measured. Light wheeling to me is different then other people. If you have a v8 you want a ford inch or one ton sized ring and pinion. If you are heavier then 4k you need 1/2 ton axles minum. And if you weight more then 6k one tons are a must in my opinion
Have a 93 YJ. 10 years ago I put 1 tons under it with 37s. Everybody asked why. Now, 10 years later I'm heavily armored, atlas 4 speed, nv4500, 9. 5 Warn winch, and EVERYTHING is still original on the 1 tons , nothing has broken yet, and I go wherever I want.
Never apologise for teaching something to people, everyone has to start somewhere 👍
100% agreement. Rod Hall and Ivan Stewart did not pop out of the womb knowing how to offroad race...
When people don’t listen and then ask for help later is a kick in the nuts
" Going through ring and pinions like nobody's business." Best wine in the whole video. Always enjoy the content, Keep it coming.!! You really inspired me to do a lot of my own fabrication over the last few months, I love it. And I've noticed recently. That you're editing. Camera work, etc. Has all gotten better. Keep up the good work.!!
Thanks buddy, I appreciate it 👍
@@DirtLifestyle A 1991 K5 Blazer with a 285 SAE HP 350 that weighs 6000 lbs with 30 spline 10 bolts and 37×12.50's, would I need a full float 14 bolt, just get the c-clip elimination kit, or leave the axles stock ?
@@gen1c8rs88 Driving style plays a large role in how things survive as well. The 14B FF rear axle will be fine, the 10 bolt front may hold up if you leave it open and don't get on the throttle when turned it should be fine.
@@gen1c8rs88 if you want to wheel hard on rocks, one tons are the way to go. Going slow on slick rock, then your axles will be fine... I put one tons under my 89 K5 as I climb rocks hard here in CO.
@@DirtLifestyle
I'm off today doing alot of nothing, rest, and rebuild (myself). So I'm on TH-cam looking at kustoms, Holdener's channel, Mustangs, Jeep stuff, etc.
So I want to ask the question nobody has asked. How do you feel about the super 35 kits? The application is a 2004 WJ, stock everything except it's on 33s maybe 35s one day but probably not. Light weekend wheeling with the fam., very minimal weight added. My main rear axle I was looking at was an iron Dana 44.
No need for an apology. I watch for the information you provide and the great entertainment. Keep building my TH-cam friend and don’t stop doing what you do!
finally somebody tells the truth about needing axles and weight
Still looking for a axle set for my WJ and 37's
I have been a disco owner for 12 years now, and I have dreamt about doing this same thing for the last 10 of them but lack the Know-how. Thank you for your hard work, research, and disco love!
You ALWAYS need tons. The only thing that would make my wife’s Mazda 6 better is tons and 40s 😂
😂
I'm looking at putting 44's under my BMW X5
Hey, I just wanted to tell you as an owner of 3 jeeps, but not very mechanically inclined, I really enjoy your videos. I don't do alot of work on my own rigs so I have to pay to have the majority of the stuff done but the reason I love your videos is at least I can understand what exactly is being done and the reason behind it. VERY information, thank you!
No problem! Thank you for watching 👍
My 8.8 is 2.5 off center in my TJ and 5 years no issues being off center to passenger that i have found
Same with my YJ.
2016 JKUR 4" Mopar lift, Yuon 4:88's, Gusseted "C's" , RCV 32 spline Front shafts, Ten factor 32 spline rear shafts, 37's Milestar Patagonia's. Shaved stock rear bumper, Poison Spyerfront bumper. I dont carry a ton of gear since I dont wheel alone. Wheelign style is easy on the $$$$ pedal,and I hit Easy to moderate trails in Washington/Snow wheeling. I consider my build mild, and capable with decent reliability. Just as long as you know when to let off, and pull cable.
Everything breaks...............EVERYTHING.
It is all on how you treat it. Ya got to......
"If you're gonna play the game, boy
You gotta learn to play it right
You've got to know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away
And know when to run"
Thanks for the parts list of your vehicle
Man it was like you were talking to me personally. I have an xj on 33s looking to go 37s. Great video!
Same but samurai
I have an xj on Dana 44s front and rear with 35 x 12.5 and I wouldn’t go 37s without doing a bigger t case
I had a 78 Jeep Cherokee Chief for a while, had a T18 4 speed, Dana 20 transfercase with center output and an offset Dana 44 rear axle. The offset rear axle was what most Cherokees had because the quadratrac transfercase had the offset to the right with a rear output. Drove that thing quite a bit and never had any issues with joints or driveline.
One tons are so cute and girly. I have a set of Axletech 4000s that are going to find their way under one of my M715s soon.
my brother and I did the rubicon last week in his old 4runner on 38.5's with a 1 ton rear and smaller solid axle front that my brother swapped in with a wimpy 3.0L v6 geared super low. It was my first time wheeling and I'm hooked. my bro did most of the fabrication work himself and it turned out well. by the time we made it to observation point both of the rear shock mounts had failed, but the leaf springs got us home.
I am now beginning my search for my own rig. I am leaning towards a 1st generation tundra with a 4.7L v8 as my canvas.
thanks for the videos. Your presentation is very straight forward and clear. you obviously know your stuff.
Glad you uploaded this video, I have a FSJ Cherokee Chief on 40's , Custom 3 link in the front and a shackle flip in the rear ( I fabbed up everything ) I got it weighed (With a front and rear set of wilwood Big Brake calipers and rotors, as well as a bunch of other junk that shouldn't have been in there when I got it weighed. ) It came in right at 5k Lbs, People give me a lot of weird looks being on 40's and Dana 44's, And a lot of oh you're going to destroy your axles and this that and the other, But the truth is, its a 40 year old truck with a body in amazing shape, I'm not going to be wheeling the snot out of it and destroying the body, Some back road's and camping with capability to do some harder trails if need-be. The front axle Has RCV's in it and very nice ring and pinion, The back is the same but with stock axles (Yikes) . I'll continue to drive it this way unless I Break things, But then I have the 4wp warranty for 5 years so I'll just get replacement parts for free.
$600 for the set of 1 tons?!?! Nice! Can't wait to see you work on em!
That's what I'm saying near me you wont find these for less the $1000.
@@MikeMac90 Pair of 1 tons here are $800-1200.
SD stuff is cheap and common. Do need a SD60? No but it cheaper to find and build thenna HP44.
SD 60, dime a dozen due to small diameter stubs and ball joint knuckles. HP king pin 60, those are the expensive ones.
Kingpin 60 are only expensive because they're a little easier to convert over. SD60 are stronger than any old school KP axle.
super helpful I'm always trying to find info especially on newer axles, currently building a pair of 9" hybrid axles a 9" center 44 outer front and a 9" w/ 14 bolt hub 35 spline ARB rear.
Good video bro. So very true! Weight means more power needed. I went 1 tons because I daily drive my Jeep. And spent many times coming from browns camp with a broken stub shaft clicking all the way home to work on the Jeep so I can get to work the next day. So now I can wheel it drive home. Go to work hahaha. Just makes it a bit more bullet proof. Now I want to build a 14 bolt front. For my 69 Chevy service truck!
Great video. You talk specific issues, no messing around. Not looking to do your type of rock crawling, just some overland and beach drives. I'm thinking 8.8 rear axle and maybe Dana 35. Your info helps my decision-making. Thanks again.
I’ve broken 30 spline stubs and lockouts. My brother running the same axle has as well. Spiced solid joints have held up pretty well. I finally upgraded to 35 spline stubs and flanges.
This is exactly what i wanted to see, Never too much information. cant wait to do this myself
Wise words, and as always..great content! You’re so right about the weight....it sneaks up on you with all the crazy bumpers and gear on the market. The unsprung weight itself is actually insane when you add a D60, D80, and big tires, calipers, etc. My truck is a completely different vehicle when unloaded and no rack. I was at 8700 lbs empty and I realized I was already legally at full GCVW....I had to start lightening things up and it makes a big difference.
Absolutely 100% correct with everything you said. 36" tires on my xj with d44 up front and stock 8.25 in back. Weight is key, I don't carry a spare cause it's heavy.
The offset for the rear axle is nothing to worry about. Ford 8.8 in a wrangler is a bit offset to paasenger side. U joint angles offset each other
Good video as always.
In the UK we fit Nissan y61 Axel's onto discovery 2 running gear. The rear axle has the diff in the centre with a wide angle prop shafts there is no problems. They are also running 40s.
I love these videos because of the variety of trucks, and no prejudice of manufactures.
Excellent Vid, Nate! The thing I most like about your videos is the information and technical considerations you present. You are always on point. Please, never, ever dumb it down for us. I come here to learn, not just to "See what everyone else is doing". I need the nuts and bolts of WHY people do what they do. I finally learned exactly why (in this vid) you are able get away with running built 44's on your JK , and all the considerations to take into account when deciding which axle to use! BIG THANKS to you, Brother. Keep your vid's tech and rationale heavy. I for one, eat that kind of stuff up... and while I'm at it, put this in your pocket: We are more knowledgeable Jeepers because of the time and effort you put into your presentations! Keep em coming! Ay Corona! :)
Thanks buddy! I appreciate the support 👊
Been running my 99-04 60 for 2 years with original shafts and joints from the JY. Finally after 2 years I broke a lockout.... that’s with a welded carrier, 5.38s, 41.5 Rockers.
Thinking of jumping into some fab work on my old XJ now that I'm officially retired. Your stuff is informative and pleasant to see.
Just the title alone is golden, making videos about things I don't know I am curious about man
Yes!! In so gonna love this one. I also was thinking to do something with the suspension setup, but keeping the stock axles.
I am currently building a 1977 K5 Blazer and I have swapped in 1-ton axles already. Curb weight on this thing is about 4600 lbs with a SBC 350 engine. I will be going with a BBC 454, 4L80E transmission and NP205 T-Case. Those along with the steel winch bumper on front and steel swing tire bumper on back adds a lot of weight. Add on the 37's I plan to run and that adds a lot of stress to the axles. Luckily for me the axles I picked up (14B FF in rear and Kingpin D60 in front) bolt right in with very little modifications.
Ive been looking at these discovery series 2. I have an extra set of Chevy 1 tons. I’m glad to see the rover is already a passenger drop
That is good to know on the Dana 60. I have a 05 plus sitting in my garage. I just need to find something to put it under. Nice video.
Barnes Ford 8.8 truss/bracket to TJ kit is bad ass, I used it in my 99 and could not be happier!
This video was perfect timing. I'm looking up 1 tons on a 4runner and needed something to watch while looking, and you happened to release a video about actually needing them or not. Now I'm even more confused on what I want. lol
I got the 3 link 4 link kit from them years ago for my 97 tj kingd60 14b. Awesome parts prices and people. I drag a 20' shipping container with 2 big 1000# safes in it. Like 7000# just dragging it around. Big oaks on my property in tn. I love my TJ on tons little tractor with coilovers
I run 1 ton axles that came with my 2010 f250. Running 6in lift on 40s. I wheel hard. I am the only guy out of my crew that a) hasn’t blown their axle up, b) haven’t had wheel bearing failure, and c) haven’t had excessive brake wear or caliper failures. Not to mention I haven’t been replacing wearables either (such as ball joints). I hate having broken parts and having to work on something just to make it work (working on something to make it better is a different story). The only thing a Dana 60 gives up is weight and ground clearance, but you gain time between rebuilds, less parts breakage, ability to run bigger tires and more in the end more time wheeling less time fixing broken stuff.
Low buck option for the front axle u-joint ears issue- weld a plate on the outside ala Iron Rock Offroad's "Almost Alloy" caps for the D30. Reinforces the weakness of the ears' thin wall and reduces 'warping' under heavy load. Not as cool as RCVs, but buys time to save the scratch while usin' yer rig...
Hay Nate, I am building a 1977 Chevy k20 "low buck Diesel truck". Love your videos and will eventually be building sliders and a few other things for it with inspiration from your videos. I am also trying to film and post my progress and experience along the way, trying to post the first video mid next week introducing the project and my plans for it.
I live in the Seattle area, any chance you would want to go wheeling once I finish the motor swap and build?
Ill never come close to needing Tons, but im really looking forward to watching your fabrication and build of this LC
Do you mall crawl with your four door wrangler? Dana 44s are fine.
Do you hit Johnson valley on 40s with hellcat power litebrite style? Pro rock 60 and 80 is what you need.
Also the 05+ axles are 72 inches wms and run a deeper backspacing wheel. The sterling axles are offset pinion not centered like a 14 bolt. Might be able to use it to your advantage.
Watching this build with intense interest. I just picked up a 1967 Land Rover Series IIA and want to do much the same to it. The rear axle is already a one ton, but I hope to change the suspension to what it looks like you are about to do. Also glad to see you have better filters on that mask.
Good fun. I redid the JKR44 front in mine. Bought it in pieces, tubes had broke. Retubed with 3/8" wall DOM, has Barnes and Ballistic pieces, 4.88 and e locker. Have fun pressing the tubes out of the pig. Hope you have access to a lathe! :)
Good detail Nate! Definitely more for me to consider with the direction on my axle swap I need to do! I’m running my Dana 30 Dana 44 package with 3.73 on my JKU with 37’s and working to decide how to go. Excited to check out the fab video!
Awesome, glad to hear these 1 tons are reasonably priced.....i am planning an epic build.....
Scratch built overlanding rig with everything you listed and more, so yes, it will have multiple 1 ton axles, Dana 80's with a rear mounted 8.3 Cummings an Allison 1,000 with overdrive.
I know it will jack the price way up, but i believe it will be way more efficient to have automatic lockers instead of manual locking hubs
Great info , this is what I keep telling people that want some big stuff for no reason other than brag about it
Being a Design Engineer, Jeep guy and camping person, you are doing it correctly. You sure don't need my opinion, but I will say I agree with you.
I am going through the exact same build right now, 2003 discovery, same color also,lol Cant wait to see what you have coming.
Hey Nate, if not already done so might want to check the motor for slipped liner issues. The 4.6’s are notorious for it. Only fix is a full rebuild using a block that has ‘top hat’ liners installed... or an LS swap. Great content, keep it coming 👍
I took 5 inches out of my 03 F350 axle for my YJ. I shortened it myself and had Dutchman respline the passenger shaft. In the end, I wish I had left it stock length.
Hell to the yes. I kept the radius arms when I swapped in tons. Can’t wait to see how you link yours! When this damn quarantine is over I def wanna come check out your garage.
Great information, and I love that you're not reading from a script.
Welded little caps on mine got tired of them breaking. They held up pretty good after that. If the joint goes bad I'd have had to grind it back off but lasted me 2 years before I sold it!
Im running a fully built Discovery 2 on 35s with HD Rover axles and air lockers. These trukcs are heavy, but the HD Rover axles have been fine so far. 37's are my goal as well, but like you agree that an axle swap is a must. Although since my axles are already built. Im starting with the LS swap before I swap out axles. Look forward to seeing how this turns out!!!
I run 37s on Rover housings under a D1 w/4.6. I've done pretty much every upgrade I can on these but I know I still have to drive 'nice' with them or I'll be walking. 35s I feel pretty comfortable with; I have friends running stock 24 spline shafts with 35s. But that's on the full float D1 axle where when he does break a shaft he can swap it in a few minutes. (I believe 7 min from break to moving is his record). He just uses the shaft as a fuse to save anything more expensive.
Based on your recommendation(and what I can afford) I've gone with the high pinion d30 from a Cherokee, trussed and an ox. Ford 8.8 rear. I understand I will be pushing it but I'm going to run 37s. I will get chromoly or cv eventually. For now I'm gonna do some light wheeling with the guys. I've wanted 37s ever since I purchased this jeep when I was 15 and it had 33s at the time. I'm 27 now and have never broken anything while offroad with the d35 and d30 that came with the jeep. I hope the 8.8 and hp30 are as good to me as these axels have been. Thank you and keep up the hard work!
And this video is why you are always my go to for anything build wise. Thank you for all the education and inspiration.
Thanks man 👊
Also bro. I used to run a 14 bolt rear. And wow. That weight killed my performance with 456 gears on 40s. With Heavy ass H1 locks. Snow runs it was always ass heavy. So my buddy and I headed to a junk yard. Dug thru axles for 4 hours. I was looking for a HD 60 rear. Factory 35 spline. And I found one. 4 hours later lol. 100$ buy . Slapped some 456 gears in it and it’s been a solid setup. Nothing against the 14 bolt. Just for my setup it has been nice. Much more balanced setup for the cj7.
Good videos, good information.
I haven't read every comment so.... If what I'm about to say has been convered - sorry. 😬
1) what year model is your 99-04 axle? You probably already know this, but it may benefit your viewers to discuss the 99-02 & 03/04 issues. If you're unfamiliar, reach out.
2) 2003-2014 all used the same 1480 u-joints. They didn't go to 1550 u-joints until 2015.
3) look for a 2011+ rear differential and you might get lucky and find a factory electric locker before you re-gear.
I got my frontier build planned, full Titan-swap the front end knuckles and all to get the more common 6x5.5 lug pattern, and a full float 12bolt from a van in the rear gets the track width on par with factory tracking setup and 40inch tires on diy beadlocked steelies although I was considering the 3 piece internal beadlocked wheels and match the gears at 4.56 on either e-lockers or airlockers.
I learn each time I watch,new to channel but will continue to watch every video from here on out
I have a 2003 land rover discovery I put a complete gm running gear in it including axles. I am only running 33s I may go up to 35s so 1/2 ton axles will do fine. I put a corporate 10 in the front and a isuzu rodeo rear axle which is a heavy duty dana 44 and it was the right width and disk brakes.
Like I’ve said before great video brotha! One of my favorite shows was Xtreme 4x4 and I’d say you’re subs would agree you are the new version of that show. Love your stuff man! Keep doing what you’re doin!!!!!!
That is very high praise! Ian Johnson is a mentor of mine and definitely one of the best in business. Thanks for the compliment 👍
My 95 yj. Has a stock dana 30 in the front with chromoly’s. I have a ford 8.8. Stock shafts with a spartan locker. 4.56 gears all around. And 37” tires. It has yet to break since I’ve been using it. I daily this and crawl it hard on the weekends. I want Tons. When i do the GenRight 3 link front 4 link rear. And have 40’s. Or maybe even 42’s.
Loved this video. Even watched the ads all the way through to help support the channel!
Looking forward to the driver to passenger side swap...
Thank you very much! I appreciate the support man
Thanks for the code... Came in handy on our last purchase....
Looking forward to this build.
DUDE!?!?!?! I freaking love the blue Jeep pickup 👌👌👌
Thanks!
Great Vid!! It's great you are taking the Disco to the Rubicon. I am planning on taking my 5th gen 4runner. Getting it ready.
It’s very cool how Nate seems to be daunted by no project, he will fabricate anything. This is gonna be a great project
I like how you did this. Detailed information upfront, then follow-up with the fab videos. I would also appreciate it if you state when you deviate from your original plan and why. A written compilation of parts used and part numbers/OEM application with the last fabrication video would be awesome. When I build/modify a vehicle, I build a spreadsheet with this information sorted by part type. (similar to online rockauto catalog) The spreadsheet makes finding replacement parts easy. The spreadsheet can be printed, laminated and stored in the vehicle glove box for road trips.
Hope your family stays healthy during these crazy times. Also, I love these "informational" style videos. Knowledge is power. Also 69K views and only 3K likes? Come on now people, he's doing youtube full time now show him some love hit that like button.
I'd love a gearing video I'm thinking 37 or 40x15.5 it's already have 1 ton 60s I'm not sure if the 4.10s will be adequate enough to run either size running 33s now
We could never have too much information... Keep'em coming...
Don't apologize for information!
It's 75% of the reason we're here!
Dana 60 are in 3/4 ton and in 1 ton. Brakes size, spring size is the difference in 3/4 ton and 1 ton.
Great video as always. Appreciate all the extra info even if it doesn't apply to what I'm personally building. If the video was twice as long I'd still watch it all.
Great info! Look forward to the build. For those without your skills and tools , those looking at a single build, can you Ballpark parts only cost of axles compared to ordering up a complete bolt-in ready set from a manufacturer like Dan, Currie or Dynatrac? Granted, your LR build might be more costly than a TJ but ballpark so we see how much this project could save even though the learning curve could be high.
I got burned showing costs in the past. TONS of people were way to opinionated on my budgets so I dont share that information anymore 👍
Looking to do 1 tons in the future. Informational videos are much appreciated!
Great video, thanks, I have a variety of land rovers fro a 1968 to a 02 Disc, the reason land rover put the pumpkins both on the right is so you go over a rock on the left and miss hitting them
I'm almost done building the front suspension on my XJ using those barnes joints, they are mega beef
Wow that was a lot of really good info. I see why your putting 1tons in the land rover. I cant wait to see how you do the front axle, that looks like its going to be a real challenge.
Very funny. You say you've never seen stubs break on the 04 down axles. I personally broke both on the same day. Very odd, only issue I've had with them but I'm currently working on a 3 link with a 2010 axle. Reason being larger 1550 ujoint option and wider to match available wheels without spacers(no im not a fan of spacers).
can't wait to see more of the build and I think the axles will be great under that rig.
A Landrover Defender pre 2004 is Salisbury Dana 60 by another name Will drop straight in keep up the good work in Corona time
will my lifted yj on 35’s be fine pulling a small boat around and up/down the ramp?
Hey the information is just part of what we do and I love seeing all of it. And I can’t believe anyone would say this thing doesn’t need 1 tons I mean shawty thicc! Can’t wait for the next video! I’m curious what your going to end up doing about the center section. Ive shortened axles but I’ve never seen someone essentially relocate a pumpkin, that’d be interesting to see! And I love fabricating trusses, one of my favorite things to do as far as automotive fabrication
She damn thicc👊
I am sooo looking forward to this developing. I am currently fitting HD diff pans to my Land Rover axles and am considering custom truss fabrication. Keep these great videos coming!!
Defender90 Keswick. Nigel's Land Rover channel. You should check out my 609 axle development on Defender source, is a real mixed bag of parts 😉
I don’t mind informational vids at all. I actually enjoy them.
I'm using 1 tons because of the price they sold for. 40" tires, big steel front and rear bumpers. My jku is gonna be a hefty boy
I’m glad I circled back and watched this episode. Lots of good information put out.
Can't wait to see the next video. I've got some axles on the way. I've been told you should drain the fluid and remove the internals before you grind or weld. Didn't look like you did that for grinding. Someone told me recently to leave it all in because the fluid and extra mass help pull the heat out. What do you think?
All the internals are going to the metal recycler. No need to remove yet 👍. But next video for sure
Awesome, I’m on my 2nd Jeep with tons. Built the first one myself and had a shop do the 2nd
have a rover myself
Questions?
what are you going to do with the front diff angle? parallel? or pointed? what kind of front drive shaft? double cardan joint or?
aaaaaand
very interested in the rear offset decision...
Need? I know for a fact that I don't "need" them for a daily driver/weekend wheeler on 33-35" tires.
Want? Absolutely. I like the benefits. Full float rear, easier maintenance, more room for packaging...and a bit of additional piece of mind with all the larger components.
Definitely don't apologize!! Looking forward to the next vid 🤟
Love that vid. Seems like everyone is always crying out need one tons 44 are not a up grade. A lot of variables. 2 door JK 35s rockjock 44 Detroit Locker carbon chromoly shafts seems like a decent upgrade to me. 4,500lb
Torson lsd rear d44 also carbon chromoly shafts .
Great video👍🏻 I decided to keep my stock axles on my xj. Don’t plan on going over 35s. Just recently did the wj knuckle swap and install truss and c gusset brackets. Thinking about putting a axle tube sleeve kit also. I have some offset heim joints from Barnes, they are beefy!
Hey Nate, keep up the good content, I love it! The only bone I had to pick was the 10.5 has 1.5" 35 spline shafts and the 14 bolt also has 1.5" shafts but the spline pitch is larger resulting in 30 splines for the same diameter. Again, killer content and I can't wait to see the passenger drop conversion!
The 14 bolt also only has a 10.5" ring gear, but it has a pinion support bearing that eliminates pinion flex making it a bomb proof axle.
@@masondatkinson I've been super happy with mine so far!
Something I've always believed in was over axle under power. Small motor with beefy axles. I'm running a typical yota setup with 38s and it done good. Now I had a s10 blazer with ton axles and 37s that drug axle everywhere. Very good video
I know the Willys pickup had an offset transfer case rear output and a center diff spicer 53 rear axle. It worked just fine. Also, I don't know if it's true but I'd heard that the Sterling ring gear bolts have a tendency to back out. Someone told me that the dana 70 ring gear bolts cure this problem.
What is the weight that would tip it over that you would need to swapped out for 1tons? 6k.. 7k? Does length or wheel base matter when deciding axels? Is it possible to create a graph or diagram of all the variables for choosing the right axel. I know your saying you can beef up the axels so maybe it dosent matter. Sorry I'm new and trying to learn .
There is no magic number. The general use can't really be measured. Light wheeling to me is different then other people. If you have a v8 you want a ford inch or one ton sized ring and pinion. If you are heavier then 4k you need 1/2 ton axles minum. And if you weight more then 6k one tons are a must in my opinion
Have a 93 YJ. 10 years ago I put 1 tons under it with 37s. Everybody asked why. Now, 10 years later I'm heavily armored, atlas 4 speed, nv4500, 9. 5 Warn winch, and EVERYTHING is still original on the 1 tons , nothing has broken yet, and I go wherever I want.
One tones are a different world .
I love it !