Very cool repair. FWIW though, you might have caused a similar problem when you use WD40. This is not a lubricant, it is a water displacer. The lube in this product is temporary and soon becomes sticky which is why you don't ever use it on locks. Even using a general penetrant would have been a better choice. But a very ingenious solution to fixing this valve.
I am sorry you feel that way, Carlos The procedure I used did not ruin the part, I ended up sealing it with a washer and an rtv bead. If people are shy about hammering a wax filled copper cylinder, they may want to use this process. The part ended up working fine when I put it back together. Mike, to answer your question, I put it in boiling water to test it and made sure the insides were moving as they were supposed to.
use a socket to disassemble. hammer on the bulb side allowing clearance using proper spaced vise on opposite side. Drilling a hole and fastening a nut is more time consuming and damages your very expensive part. Not attractive to prospective buyers.
I am sorry to say but I thing this is NOT the proper way to get it disassembled. You just need to hammer from the lower side (the yellow copper sensor side) using an open tube to clear (and not to ruin) the wax filled sensor. You need to push the sensor from the edge. If you hammer the center, you lost the aav. When you hammer (about 10 times) from lower side, the sensor will push all the upper parts to outside. I am sorry to say.....but that outside hole ruined the part. there are some links at MB foruns. Its not hard to perform this job. Once you know what to do, this is 2 min job. Precisely put all parts together is another story. tks
hey mate, thanks for your detailed explanation! i managed to dissemble the part exactly as you described. i was about to drill and do as in video but then read the comments and you saved me and 500usd 🎉 thx!
Very cool repair.
FWIW though, you might have caused a similar problem when you use WD40. This is not a lubricant, it is a water displacer. The lube in this product is temporary and soon becomes sticky which is why you don't ever use it on locks. Even using a general penetrant would have been a better choice.
But a very ingenious solution to fixing this valve.
I am sorry you feel that way, Carlos The procedure I used did not ruin the part, I ended up sealing it with a washer and an rtv bead. If people are shy about hammering a wax filled copper cylinder, they may want to use this process. The part ended up working fine when I put it back together. Mike, to answer your question, I put it in boiling water to test it and made sure the insides were moving as they were supposed to.
Thanks for the input. I think I'll try cleaning it out again and putting something better in before I put it back in the car.
How do you test this valve after repairing it? Do recommend putting in hot water? Thx
use a socket to disassemble. hammer on the bulb side allowing clearance using proper spaced vise on opposite side. Drilling a hole and fastening a nut is more time consuming and damages your very expensive part. Not attractive to prospective buyers.
I am sorry to say but I thing this is NOT the proper way to get it disassembled.
You just need to hammer from the lower side (the yellow copper sensor side) using an open tube to clear (and not to ruin) the wax filled sensor. You need to push the sensor from the edge. If you hammer the center, you lost the aav.
When you hammer (about 10 times) from lower side, the sensor will push all the upper parts to outside. I am sorry to say.....but that outside hole ruined the part.
there are some links at MB foruns. Its not hard to perform this job. Once you know what to do, this is 2 min job. Precisely put all parts together is another story.
tks
hey mate, thanks for your detailed explanation! i managed to dissemble the part exactly as you described. i was about to drill and do as in video but then read the comments and you saved me and 500usd 🎉 thx!
This part is only using by D-jetronic 350/450 SEL/SL/SLC
from 71-76 !!!
I pulled it out of an 80 500SEL