Seen 2 other videos on removing struts and this one is by far the best, clear, and concise. Changing struts in a home garage environment instead of a shop is a huge bonus.
Really appreciated his video. My biggest problem was getting the bolt back in the bottom of the strut. Putting the tire on and working from behind helped because it pulled the arm down. Removing the rubber bushings and dropping the sway bar gave me better access to the sway bars links to apply the vise grips. I also had the issue of the recall modification where they added some additional hardware that had to be completely removed to access the 2 arm nuts. 210,000 on our '09 so hopefully this fix will make it better than new. Has been noisy for months and seemed like we were on ice going over bumps. Glad that projects over.
I did the rear struts for my brother in law’s CRV todays using this video for reference. I’m a mechanic but I always like to use videos just to make sure I’m not missing any steps or doing anything improperly. Just drove the car around and it feels great. The car was bouncing a lot in the rear cuz those old struts were completely shot. Feels like a whole different car now. Great video man. Good job.
Great job on the video! I used your videos to guide me to replace the front and rear struts on our 2013 Honda CR-V. The details that you provided (torque specs and socket/wrench sizes) saved me a lot of research and helped me to be prepared for the job.
Great video, thank you so much for sharing it! I watched several but yours was by far the best and I greatly appreciated that you shared part numbers as well as torque wrench settings for everything that needed it. I noticed one difference between all the videos I watched including yours, and that was the addition of a bracket that goes over the control arm. Last year we had a recall on our 2007 crv done, and I’m assuming this is what was added for it but not sure. So I had to take that bracket off in order to get the control arm to lower out of the way, for anyone that has had the recall done this may be an additional step and the control arm having two different bolts with different head sizes. I don’t think my drivers side work was done properly however and it resulted in me cross threading a bolt. Had to have someone rethread it, but it is done. So be careful those that have had the recall some when putting the control arm back. Your video was still tremendously helpful thank you!
FanDamtastic video Vinnie, thank you very much along with the other video to replace the front struts, which I need to do on my wife's 2009 CR-V. Best video for detailed info
Getting those new struts in to line up with that 17mm bolt at the bottom can be a bit of a challenge. I installed new ones but they sat way lower on the control arm than the old ones did, I thought I had the wrong struts but no, they were the right ones. Couldn't get them to line up as easily as you did in the video but kodus to you. Nothing is as easy as it seems watching others do it...
Yeah any type of suspension work can be a real pain sometimes, but if you just keep at it, you will eventually get what you need installed. Glad to hear that you got your vehicles new suspension installed!
Excellent video sir! Thanks for the extra effort and consideration in creating it. If only more TH-cam content providers used the same no-nonsense approach. This will greatly help me with my 2011 Honda CR-V. How have the TRQ and Moog components held up since you installed them?
Thank you for your support! The TRQ and Moog parts have been holding up great so far, no issues, no noises, the car drives great and I personally use this vehicle as a light work truck.
hi Vinnie, for the strut tower 2 bolts is it 54ft lbs of torque? i get different number from other sources. can you list the torque specs please? thank you! great video
Here are the Torque Specs I have used. Top Stud Nuts - 54ft lbs Strut Bolts - 69ft lbs Control Arm Bolts - 54ft lbs Sway Bar Nuts - 29ft lbs Sway Bar Bushing Bolts - 16ft lbs
Also, the 6 bolts for the rear damper gusset inside the car (which you need to remove to break the tab on the old shock) that he says to snug up should be 22 ft-lb per the Honda Service Manual.
Sir, I see u have used the TRQ struts. Given the video was made an year ago, how are they holding up? I am considering buying a pair cuz my 08 crv has started to bounce a lot from the rear side.
They’ve actually held up quite nicely. I figured I would give them a try cause the price was right, and so far so good, they don’t make any noises and ride very smoothly, just like new! Haven’t had any issues yet!
Is it possible to use a spring compressor to replace the strut without removing the control arm bolts and not lowering the control arm? after Honda did the rear subframe repair the bracket for the repair goes over the front bolt of the control arm requiring removing the entire recall repair bracket in order to lower the control arm.
This is a great question, I have seen some people rig up a spring compressor on the strut to remove them before (if you have enough room). But replacing struts this way seems a bit difficult and dangerous. You may have more success removing the recall bracket if its easy to do, versus trying to use a spring compressor to remove the struts.
I've read some message boards where some folks have got away with not removing them. Also, some people have said you can just remove the bushing bolts and that will give you enough wiggle room. Anything to avoid dealing with rusty stabilizer links is worth it.
You will hear all sorts of noises coming from the suspension, some while driving normally, some going over bumps, also your car may ride a bit bouncy going over bumps. Also you can measure the distance of sag from the tire to your wheel well. There are plenty of checks you can make.
I would give your self the day to complete this job. If all goes to plan and you don’t run into any stubborn bolts, probably 5-6 hours with no experience. It’s important to take your time!
From a different source, the torque of the two trailing arm mounting bolts is 84.6 lbf-ft(=11.7 kgf-m). There is a big difference between 54 and 84.6. Would you please double check it?
@@ferlosta9390 yeah I can’t really say how long it’s going to take somebody else, not knowing their skill level and other conditions. On average this should take 2-3 hrs.
Great video! At what mileage should the front/rear be changed? I have an '07 with 144k miles. They've never been changed AFAIK. Also, why did you decide to replace the links & bushings? Old parts or?
Thank you! Your Mileage may vary depending on your driving conditions. Usually you will notice the car feels extra bouncy, or you’ll hear the struts making knocking noises when going over bumps. If you haven’t had them replaced before then I would recommend replacing them now since they are probably the originals and they are old. The reason I replaced the links and bushings was because they were also very old and showing wear, and since you will have to semi remove them anyways to do the strut, it’s worth just replacing all of them together at once. Now after you replace everything, remember to take your car to get an Alignment done. That will make sure your car drives straight and all your tires will wear evenly.
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Seen 2 other videos on removing struts and this one is by far the best, clear, and concise. Changing struts in a home garage environment instead of a shop is a huge bonus.
Thank you for the awesome response, I really appreciate your support and glad this helped!
Really appreciated his video. My biggest problem was getting the bolt back in the bottom of the strut. Putting the tire on and working from behind helped because it pulled the arm down. Removing the rubber bushings and dropping the sway bar gave me better access to the sway bars links to apply the vise grips. I also had the issue of the recall modification where they added some additional hardware that had to be completely removed to access the 2 arm nuts. 210,000 on our '09 so hopefully this fix will make it better than new. Has been noisy for months and seemed like we were on ice going over bumps. Glad that projects over.
No nonsense just clear instructions specs and advice. Well done!! Thank you
Glad this helped you out,Thanks for the support!
I did the rear struts for my brother in law’s CRV todays using this video for reference. I’m a mechanic but I always like to use videos just to make sure I’m not missing any steps or doing anything improperly. Just drove the car around and it feels great. The car was bouncing a lot in the rear cuz those old struts were completely shot. Feels like a whole different car now. Great video man. Good job.
Great to hear this, glad you got it all fixed up, thank you for the comment and the support man, much appreciated!
Which struts did you use? TRQ?
Yes TRQ struts@@hellagrant
Simple, to the point and the torque was provided. Excellent video.
Thank you, Glad this helped!
Thanks dude you saved me so much time 🎉
Cheers dude!
Wow man, that’s the best video I have found of this process. So good, thanks. Andy UK
Thank you Andy, I really appreciate hearing this! Glad this helped!
Great videos Vinnie! Good, concise explanations without annoying music or commentary.
Thanks for the support man I appreciate it!
Thanks for the advice you are a great teacher
Excellent video! Great job conveying the various steps. Thank you for helping others.
Very happy to hear this helped, thank you so much for your support it means a lot!
Great job on the video! I used your videos to guide me to replace the front and rear struts on our 2013 Honda CR-V. The details that you provided (torque specs and socket/wrench sizes) saved me a lot of research and helped me to be prepared for the job.
Glad to hear this helped! Thanks for your support!
Great video, thank you so much for sharing it! I watched several but yours was by far the best and I greatly appreciated that you shared part numbers as well as torque wrench settings for everything that needed it. I noticed one difference between all the videos I watched including yours, and that was the addition of a bracket that goes over the control arm. Last year we had a recall on our 2007 crv done, and I’m assuming this is what was added for it but not sure. So I had to take that bracket off in order to get the control arm to lower out of the way, for anyone that has had the recall done this may be an additional step and the control arm having two different bolts with different head sizes. I don’t think my drivers side work was done properly however and it resulted in me cross threading a bolt. Had to have someone rethread it, but it is done. So be careful those that have had the recall some when putting the control arm back. Your video was still tremendously helpful thank you!
FanDamtastic video Vinnie, thank you very much along with the other video to replace the front struts, which I need to do on my wife's 2009 CR-V. Best video for detailed info
Glad to hear this helps, thank you for the support!
Great video: filming ,clarity, thanks!!
Thanks for the support!
Getting those new struts in to line up with that 17mm bolt at the bottom can be a bit of a challenge. I installed new ones but they sat way lower on the control arm than the old ones did, I thought I had the wrong struts but no, they were the right ones. Couldn't get them to line up as easily as you did in the video but kodus to you. Nothing is as easy as it seems watching others do it...
Yeah any type of suspension work can be a real pain sometimes, but if you just keep at it, you will eventually get what you need installed. Glad to hear that you got your vehicles new suspension installed!
Thank you for the lesson. Very well explained.
Glad this helped, thanks for your support!
Great video ready to do mine now
Excellent video sir! Thanks for the extra effort and consideration in creating it. If only more TH-cam content providers used the same no-nonsense approach. This will greatly help me with my 2011 Honda CR-V. How have the TRQ and Moog components held up since you installed them?
Thank you for your support! The TRQ and Moog parts have been holding up great so far, no issues, no noises, the car drives great and I personally use this vehicle as a light work truck.
Very thorough. Great work
Thank you I appreciate your support!
Outstanding!!! Thanks so much!!
Very well done! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the support!
Great explanation
Thanks for you support!
New sub. Very clear 👌 👏
Thanks for your support!
very nice job i need it a video like yours thanks you
Thanks for your support!
very nice video!
Thanks for your support!
Cool video… thank you…
Glad this helped! Thanks for the support!
hi Vinnie, for the strut tower 2 bolts is it 54ft lbs of torque? i get different number from other sources.
can you list the torque specs please? thank you!
great video
Here are the Torque Specs I have used.
Top Stud Nuts - 54ft lbs
Strut Bolts - 69ft lbs
Control Arm Bolts - 54ft lbs
Sway Bar Nuts - 29ft lbs
Sway Bar Bushing Bolts - 16ft lbs
Also, the 6 bolts for the rear damper gusset inside the car (which you need to remove to break the tab on the old shock) that he says to snug up should be 22 ft-lb per the Honda Service Manual.
Can you replace struts without taking the control arm bolts all the way out?
I don’t believe so, I think you need to remove those in order to remove the strut.
Sir, I see u have used the TRQ struts. Given the video was made an year ago, how are they holding up? I am considering buying a pair cuz my 08 crv has started to bounce a lot from the rear side.
They’ve actually held up quite nicely. I figured I would give them a try cause the price was right, and so far so good, they don’t make any noises and ride very smoothly, just like new! Haven’t had any issues yet!
nice video :)
Thank you👍🏽
Is it possible to use a spring compressor to replace the strut without removing the control arm bolts and not lowering the control arm? after Honda did the rear subframe repair the bracket for the repair goes over the front bolt of the control arm requiring removing the entire recall repair bracket in order to lower the control arm.
This is a great question, I have seen some people rig up a spring compressor on the strut to remove them before (if you have enough room). But replacing struts this way seems a bit difficult and dangerous. You may have more success removing the recall bracket if its easy to do, versus trying to use a spring compressor to remove the struts.
If you are not replacing sway bar links, is it necessary to remove them for this job?
I've read some message boards where some folks have got away with not removing them. Also, some people have said you can just remove the bushing bolts and that will give you enough wiggle room. Anything to avoid dealing with rusty stabilizer links is worth it.
You will have to just disconnect the sway bar link from the strut to remove the strut. But you can leave the other end of the sway bar link attached.
How do I know if my 3rd Gen CRV (2011) front or rear struts, sway bar links, and bushings need to be replaced? Thanks!
You will hear all sorts of noises coming from the suspension, some while driving normally, some going over bumps, also your car may ride a bit bouncy going over bumps. Also you can measure the distance of sag from the tire to your wheel well. There are plenty of checks you can make.
You can start by visually inspecting everything.
How do they perform?
So far so good, they work great! I commute about 50 miles daily and I love them. The car feels like it drives brand new.
Any clue if this is possible without removing those control arm bolts? They did a recall and have a bracket bolted in there now 🥴
I’m not sure yet because I haven’t had the recall done yet 😬
how long do you think it will take a not very experienced person?
I would give your self the day to complete this job. If all goes to plan and you don’t run into any stubborn bolts, probably 5-6 hours with no experience. It’s important to take your time!
From a different source, the torque of the two trailing arm mounting bolts is 84.6 lbf-ft(=11.7 kgf-m). There is a big difference between 54 and 84.6. Would you please double check it?
I double checked and it’s 54 ft lbs.
How long will take me at first time
This job should take less the one days worth of work, with or without experience.
@@VinnieT sorry , I don't understand your answer, Vinnie, do you mean less than 8 hrs??
@@ferlosta9390 yeah I can’t really say how long it’s going to take somebody else, not knowing their skill level and other conditions.
On average this should take 2-3 hrs.
no Aliment needed?
You should get an Alignment done after you do this job.
Thanks for sharing ❤
Nice job
Great video! At what mileage should the front/rear be changed? I have an '07 with 144k miles. They've never been changed AFAIK. Also, why did you decide to replace the links & bushings? Old parts or?
Thank you! Your Mileage may vary depending on your driving conditions. Usually you will notice the car feels extra bouncy, or you’ll hear the struts making knocking noises when going over bumps. If you haven’t had them replaced before then I would recommend replacing them now since they are probably the originals and they are old.
The reason I replaced the links and bushings was because they were also very old and showing wear, and since you will have to semi remove them anyways to do the strut, it’s worth just replacing all of them together at once.
Now after you replace everything, remember to take your car to get an Alignment done. That will make sure your car drives straight and all your tires will wear evenly.