Lexus GS430 Cam and VVTi seal replacement (and I may have blown my engine up...)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2024
- Project GS430 E2: This is part two of what started out as a simple valve-cover gasket replacement on the Lexus. It has now turned into a Cam and VVTi seal replacement too.
Let's just say that despite doing lots of things right, I got one key bit wrong... just long enough for consequences to happen...
Which will be covered in Part Three. ;) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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If you don't have the DeLorean, you can "GO BACK IN TIME" by opening up the heads in your 3uz and look on the back of cam gear for two dots :D
Thank you for the video !
Thanks Mike I was gonna do some work like this and your video has steered me clear of doing any of it.
it is not as hard as you think....
Oh my God a year ago it was one ad we were forced to watch, then it was 2 ads and now it is 3 at the beginning of every TH-cam video that we’re being forced to watch. So I am going to be done after this!
Couldn’t agree more, Becky. The best bit is that I’m not monetized, yet TH-cam still rams adverts into my videos, which does nothing for me, annoys people that watch them. but it makes TH-cam money, so there’s that, I suppose!
@@MikeMacful Sorry to hear it! Well, pretty soon TH-cam/Google is going to go by the Wayside when the block chain technology is up and running. There’s Steemit, which pays the content creators whenever someone watches and it will take the conglomerate thieves out and give power back to the people. (a decentralized platform.)
We don’t need all these corporations getting in the middle and becoming billionaires and turning the rest of us into slaves. All they did was set up a platform. They wouldn’t exist without content. But now technically they own all of your content and make billions every year off of your hard labor. #boycottAlphabet
@@MikeMacful sorry Mike
@@weaverdreams NP - I agree with you!
great vid it sucks that happened but u definitely made up my mind to just have my mechanic do this ones my 00 4runner but that was nothing like this,obviously pulling the cams has me worried. I'm gonna watch the next vid now.
Thanks - it’s actually not too bad - I was just doing it at night by torchlight after a full day’s work. The engine’s been a bit of an epic TBH, but I’ve learned shed-loads, so it was painfully worth it!!😀
@@MikeMacful I definitely hear that I had a 3rd gen 4Runner that I couldn’t find why it was missing I just started throwing money in it,come to finally find out the negative battery cable which bolts to the block was hanging on be a thread so by then everything else was brand new and that was it I never had another issue until some jackass came sliding out of nowhere in a snow storm and totaled it but after having that I don’t see myself driving anything but Toyota/Lexus as a daily I also have a couple a couple toys in the garage but they are my babies. I really wanted another 4Runner or the Lexus 470 suv but with these crazy used car prices there is no way I’m gonna spend anywhere near what these nuts are asking and I did want something comfortable and quiet on the roads and highways and this Lexus so far knock on wood has been exactly what I was looking for - 4 wheel drive thanks again
@@michaeldecarlo1502 it’s nearly always something simple, and the last thing you look at… I mean obviously it’s the last thing you look at, ‘cos it’s fixed then, so you stop looking, but it’s the number of things that you have to pile through before you get to the last thing that make it so frustrating!!😖
When you were doing the L camshaft, did you have to turn it so that both double-dots were aligned before removing it? My engine is at TDC and on the L side it is aligned as single-dot to single-dot, however the service bolt hole is not accessible. Was this your case?
There's a lot to go through here - first, you don't remove the camshafts at TDC - that's just for setting timing and belt changes. If you have a look at my later video when I took the heads off again the process is covered better, but I'd strongly recommend getting the Lexus Workshop manual from eManualonline to use as a proper reference.
However, to get you started, for removing the LHS cams you should:
1 - Before anything else, set the engine to 45 degrees BTDC (there's a little spur on the inner part of the crank pulley - it should be pointing upwards!). This makes sure valves and pistons can't meet and makes it safe to rotate the cams as needed to get them to line up once the belt's off - no matter where you rotate them to, the valves can't touch the pistons.
2 - Remove the timing belt (that's a whole other procedure).
3 - Once the belt's off rotate the LHS cams to allow you to install the service bolt, then set them to double-dots.
4 - Remove the Cam cap bolts in sequence.
5 - Remove the cams.
Installation is slightly different - the double-dots are rotated a further 10 degrees which means the cams will lie flat when installing them.
In short, I'd really recommend getting the manual (again) - it's got lots of useful pictures and you can't go wrong if you follow it.
Hello you did a nice job and I am so grateful that you posted the camshaft seals size if you don't mind can you please just explain what did you do wrong while placing they camshaft.
There’s a single and a double dot stamped into the camshafts at the end. When installing them you need to ensure the correct dots are lined up on both camshafts (workshop manual shows which way they need to go and I’d strongly recommend getting it if doing any head work).
When I installed the LH cams I accidentally put one of the cams in 180 degrees out, hence two intake valves got bent, luckily only very slightly…
@@MikeMacful Do you think that if you Mark bouth gears using a marker pen, would it help?.same as you marked the timing belt.
@@hasanalzaabi No, because the cams need to be at a specific angle when removed vs when re-installing. You also need the crank to be set at a specific position to make sure all the pistons are not at the tops of their bores. The workshop manual has all the details and I’d strongly recommend getting a copy (eManuals does it and it’s well worth it).
So that’s underneath the spark plugs and the intake filter isn’t it because I’m witnessing some oil leak on both of my camshafts Rightside and left side
Is it definitely from the cams! It may be the cam cover gasket? you’d have to remove a fair bit to get a proper look if it’s the cam seal including the timing belt and cam pulleys. Either way it’s a lot to strip to get at either of them!!
Mike, I have a 2008 Lexus GX470. Just changed the timing belt and other associated stuff. Also changed the camshaft seals. Now, truck sounds like a diesel and is generating a P0018 code for bank 2, sensor A. I have double-checked timing and use of the service bolt, all alignment; to no avail, truck sounds bad. I checked the compression and valve clearance; all within specs. Has to be something I did in the process; truck ran great prior to my efforts. Your thoughts please? Don
P0018 means the crank and that cam are not aligned, which I’m sure you’ve checked already!
The Lexus manual (IIRC) says to first check the VVT solenoid (resistance across the terminals - should be 6.9 Ohms I think, then apply 12v across them and make sure it actuates (‘clicks’). Next check the feed to that solenoid from the loom - any broken wires/connection issues? Then it’s check timing (which you’ve done). After that the manual recommends to replace the ECU (yeah, right!) but other sources suggest that dirty oil could also cause it, but I think that’s unlikely in your case.
That’s all I can think of on the hoof - hope you crack it and let me know what it turned out to be, please?
Your scissors gears on the exhaust side cams are not lined up correctly, that's why it sounds like a diesel
@@ahmadmayo9625 I agree, scissor gears
Mike how is the seal inside the VVT holding up for you ?
I'm debating on doing this on my 03 gs430 now. I work in Lexus dealership and the techs say - "DONT DO IT"
But "what can go wrong? " Right ? 😅 I'm leaning towards doing it actually. (I know a location of a junk gs430 I can rely on parts (plan B)
Absolutely no issues whatsoever. There is no technical complexity to it other than making sure it’s lined up correctly on reassembly and that you don’t go anywhere near the actual innards of the VVT unit.
The techs are no doubt saying don’t do it because it’s not in the workshop manual - that just says to replace the unit ($$). By the book they’re right but the book isn’t always gospel…
The only thing I would say is to only do it if they are actually leaking - and check cam seals first as that’s more likely to be a source of a leak.
Other than that, though, it’s a no brainer - check out CartuneNZ’s video on it too - I’d take his knowledge of the 3UZ over anyone else’s and he’s perfectly fine with it!
@@MikeMacful great, thank you !
Tell us more about this Stag-300-8 Max Plus ECU 16:23
It’s the LPG system I had installed when I bought the car. Takes economy down by about 15-20% but as LPG is less than half the price of Petrol in the UK it works out equivalent to 40+ UK MPG. Once I’ve finished re-building my engine (again!!) I plan to do a whole video on LPG pros and cons.
I am currently trying to replace the camshaft seal and camshaft VVTi gear assembly, when I looked up the part number it says that there is a color green or red for each of the VVTI gears. How do I identify the color? Thanks
Sorry - not sure about that - never noticed any colours or remember anything in the workshop manual about that. IIRC the gears had a 'L' or 'R' on them to identify them, but I could be wrong about that!
Mike, When you re-installed the intake and exhaust camshafts, what was your procedure ? Did you install front bearing cap down onto the seal , then torque it down to specs without pinching seal , or did you push in seal part way when torquing down or did you push in completely after torquing front bearing cap ?
Then did you installed the rest of the bearing caps only after getting front bearing cap taken care of ? ? torquing in sequence ? The reason I ask is that "doesn't the FIPG set up rather quickly ....i.e.5-10 minute range ?"
Does not give one a whole lot of time to get 22 bolts down and torqued. Thanks again and I apologize for any stupid questions. It is nice to find someone on the internet who has been thru this painstaking process.....
Any insight you can shed is greatly appreciated.
There should be a sequence of which bolts to tighten in what order in the manual, but ref the front cap FIPG, it’s about a 30 min cure IIRC, which gives plenty of time to do it all, with a bit of preparation beforehand. Ref the cam seal, I had it in the right position when tightening and kept checking it as I went.
@@MikeMacful I will be starting the removal of camshafts today.....thank you for all of the info and guidance you have provided to me .....much appreciated....
@@MikeMacful One last question if you dont mind.....In the FSM in regards to installation
, it states to "Apply multi-purpose grease to the thrust portion of the intake and exhaust camshafts." Which part of the camshaft is the thrust portion ? Thank you
@@bilge77 the point at the very front of the cam basically.
@@MikeMacful did you take out your exhaust camshafts ? I started with RH Bank...took out both camshafts, successfully installed new seal on intake camshaft, but I have a little problem on re-installing the intake camshaft. I first installed exhaust camshaft, finger tightened E2, E3, E5 bearing caps, so exhaust is fully seated in the bearing journals, however when I install the intake camshaft, it seems that it is not 100% seated, almost but not 100%. 1-dot marks are lining up. In your opinion , do you think this will full seat in the journals as I torque down 22 bolts in sequence. ? Dont want to damage anything at this point. Or what do you suggest. FSM is vague......All they say is ......."Align the 1-dot marks and place the intake and exhaust camshafts. Set the 1-dot marks at approx 10 degree angle...
Thoughts ? Your advice is much appreciated.
If I’m simply changing the Cam seals, couldn’t I just pop the VVTI module off and slide the new seal on the shaft without having to remove the cam?
Been a while since I did this, but looking back I can’t see any reason it couldn’t work, if you can get access, but you e got to get everything around the cams off (including the front cap) to gain access so TBH you’re probably not saving too much time by doing it that way.
Hey Mike I have an issue with my 06 gs430 when coming to a stop 2nd gear to 1st gear has a lil jolt when stopping. I don't have a check engine light it's just aggravating when downshifting...i have read on clublexus forums it is the ECU needing to be flashed and reprogrammed. It seems to be pretty common on the forums with this particular issue...have you come across this situation or know anything about it...
I would say I have a similar issue, but haven’t started digging into it yet - my plan was to change the A/T fluid (needs doing anyway) and check the driveshaft unions and Transmission mounts, but that was just on a general process of elimination.
@@MikeMacful Are you still driving the car daily...just moderately or no drive time at all...
@@eugeneowens82 not quite daily, but it is my ‘daily’ car.
And it’s usually about 2-300 miles per week
I've got the same 06 gs430 and this happened to me. Had to get a reflash (~$190) and problem solved. I mailed my ecu to SIA Electronics and got it back within a 10 days
@@MikeMacful a random question not relating to this video. What’s it like running your car in lpg compared to petrol? What kind of mpg do you get? I’m thinking of converting mine to lpg as well. Beautiful engines these
Valves a clearanced for belt failure.
Do i need to replace my veichle camshaft seals while doin the timingbelt replacement?
I hve a Ls430 2004 lexus.
I wonder if i have the same seals on the camshaft inner amd the thick seal.
There’s no need to replace cam seals unless they’re leaking or you’re removing the camshafts (in which case you might as well. If you’re just doing a timing belt, check them and leave all e if they’re dry.
@@MikeMacful thnx for replying 👊👊👊
The problem is i still haven't worked on the veichle yet,
I have all the timing kit, still writing notes & instructions on how to do it.
Is it possible to replace the oil pump seal while doin the timing job?
@@hasanalzaabi I’d imagine so - not done it myself. Again, if not leaking, I’d leave it alone.
hey where could I find the vvti unit rubber orings? it was 2.5mmx77mm i.d or o.d?
It was 2.5mm thickness, 77mm bore Viton rubber O-Rings from a UK coy called ‘Simply Bearings. Total cost was just under £10 delivered for 2.
@@MikeMacful many thanks!
Yup Sounds like the cam scissor gears are improperly aligned. Wont blow your engine but sound horrible. Sounds like you may have forgotten to put the screw in for the scissor gear alignment .
No - screw was in - the cause was something else... which is revealed in the next video.... ;)
PS - I wish it had been forgetting the service bolt!!!
So what went wrong 0n your vvti oring and seal replacement video?
Next video in line deals with the re-opening of the engine and diagnosis 😉
Yes you can, they would rather sell you the gears. Some on eBay right now.
by any chance do you have a link to the manual
There isn’t one unfortunately - you need to download it from eManual but it’s not transferable
@@MikeMacful ok thanks
Great video Mike. I might have missed it but what was the diameter of the orings you used?
I went with the 2.5mm ones - provided more engagement and to me a better seal between the two halves.
@@MikeMacful sorry I mean the oring size not the thickness.
@@cprguy2 my bad - read your comment too quickly! It’s a 77mm diameter O-Ring - see 8:48 in the video.
It also needs to be made of Viton rubber for oil resistance.
@@MikeMacful perfect thanks for the quick reply. Is it 77mm ID or OD?
@@cprguy2 The ID, or bore, was 77mm.
I'm swapping the engine and prepping new one on a stand. F that v8 work in the engine bay ..lol
I officially approve this message! 😀