Lexus GS430 DIY Cylinder Head Rebuild - On the Driveway!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- This is Part 3 of what started as a valve cover gasket replacement, (see Part 1) Cam and VVTi seal replacement (see Part 2) and, thanks to one little mistake, has now turned into a Top End Rebuild of my engine... on my driveway... in Winter.
What could go wrong? Lots!
Part 1 Here: • Project GS430 E1 - Cam...
Part 2 Here: • Lexus GS430 Cam and VV...
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This would be the first time seeing that smoke method in use. Thank you for this really informative video
Thank you! 👍
excel is the best thing ever! that piston cleanup is pretty impressive
Well done for seeing it through to a successful conclusion.
Thanks Neil! Quite a few dark nights (literally) on the way there. Just 15-20 other things to do now... :-D
Brother this looked like quite the mother f***in journey but man I gotta give you so much respect for having gone through what you did and still managed to get to the light at the end of that dark tunnel. I’m super excited to do my timing belt water pump and cam seals in about 2 days and have been doing weeks of research to the point where I know I’m ready. Have a blessed rest of the year and I’ll be watching all the way from miami 🙌🏻
Thanks - just make sure the timing dots on the Cams are all good... :D.
I’d also strongly recommend getting the proper workshop manual (you can find it online) as it’s key to getting it right. Good luck!
@@MikeMacful appreciate that my brother, what I’ve gathered is
RH is • •
and LH is •• ••
Yes, but there’s also a different timing mark to set the crank to than TDC so that there’s no chance of interference - as said the workshop manual has it all stage by stage - try emanualonline.com - that’s where I got mine. I’d also watch cartunenz on here - really knowledgeable and good content.
I'm getting ready to go at timing belt on my LS430 and realized there's oil coming out of both VVTI covers. I've been there in the garage/driveway getting in too deep haha last time was when I had to do knock sensors.
Lucky for me I work at a shop and carved myself a nice corner to start taking her apart with a vice a few feet away
Good luck although I suspect you won’t need it. It’s pretty simple with a shop’s equipment and the manual - worth it to not have oil all over your engine too 😁
@@MikeMacful I made the mistake of not checking valve clearance before disassembly. Cyl Intake valves were so tight I couldn't get my smallest feeler gauge in it. I'll need to take apart and check what shims everything else has maybe I'll get lucky and can shuffle them around without ordering too many new ones. Did you get new shims from dealer?
@@angelsantana3969 yes I did and there were very few I could shuffle or e-use, unfortunately - primarily because all the valves needed to go up a few sizes not down so I couldn’t even machine the old ones smaller. Lexus also charge a lot for each shim - if you can, making your own would be a lot cheaper!
I feel your pain and frustration bro! I was in the process of renewing my valve cover seals and some how managed to drop one of the half moons down the rear oil gallery! 😩 I can’t believe it it’s gone right down inside and not out the bottom so stuck in there! OMG I now need to remove the head to get to it! 😢
Unless you can see it in the head there's a good chance it's ended up in the Sump - it's a pretty wide gallery and goes right down there!!
Might be worth trying that route first? It's easier to get the oil pan off than the head...
I feel for you though!
I'm glad to see that in the end you made it. I own a LS430 y2000. Same engine (3UZFE), running perfectly with +500.000Km but now having some oil leaks like you had. I use to repair the car by myself, but after watching your video I'm not sure about trying to repair this oil leak...
Thanks - bear in mind that most of my issues were self generated and all the key seals (cam cover, spark plug tube and VVT can be done with heads on. That said at that mileage I’d expect valve stem seals to be needed too, but the main difficulty with that is getting the heads off and an LS has a larger engine bay so should be a bit easier?
@@MikeMacful Thank's Mike. Maybe I'll try... But first I've to check and buy all the parts needed (gaskets, rings, hoses, etc.). And finally, here you can watch this interesting video, where a man assembles completely this engine: th-cam.com/video/YJUskMSrw84/w-d-xo.html
I had exactly the same sound after changing out the vvt, I guess it's better to live with the leaks
@@iphoneyfour Just needs to be done methodically and it's fine. OK - it did take me about 2-3 re-attempts to get it right, though... ;)
@@MikeMacful
Thanks, I bought another car but still love the GS and respect Lexus
Hi Mike, I'm about to do the timing job on what I'm guessing should be the same engine - mine is 3UZ, from a 2004 LS430. I've got everything stripped down now with the timing belt still on, crank set to TDC. Inspecting the intake cams shows both (RH, LH) cams sharp aligned with the vertical marks on the cam covers (as it should be). Now, onto checking the dot marks: RH cams are dot-to-dot, LH cams are dot-to-dot too... I know from the service history there was one timing job done on the car, but cannot guarantee if it was done properly. It is either someone messed up the timing, or I'm having a different engine than yours.
Now, if I were to force reset the LH cams to double_dot-to-double_dot I would end-up with the LH timing pulley 180 degrees out of phase (the LH intake timing (dot) mark on the pulley would be at the bottom). So, to my understanding there is no way to have a double_dot-to-double_dot on the LH cam gears, and at the same time the LH intake pulley timing mark aligned at the top with the vertical mark on the cam cover. Am I missing something?
Hi Robert. Im going off memory, but this should be right - will check tonight and let you know if not.
First up, don’t worry - that’s all as it should be - the double dot marking on the LHS is purely for re-installing the cams after you’ve removed them, as that is the point where there will be no cam lobes engaged with the valves (actually you offset from the double dots by about 10 degrees, but hopefully you see what I mean).
If you’re removing the cams then you need to use the smaller timing Mark that’s clockwise on from the normal ones (puts all pistons below TDC and avoids interference if the cams are turned (once the belts off).
On reinstalling (using single dot on RHD and double dot on LHS, you would then get the cams back to the correct external timing Mark once installed and tightened - because the crank has stayed below TDC you won’t have any issues doing this. Once back on correct external timing you’ll have single dot to single dot on both sides.
Hopefully this makes sense and there’s no need to strip further unless you’re removing camshafts. If you are I’d really recommend getting a copy of the workshop manual which has all the stages and markings etc broken down step by step.
@@MikeMacful Thanks for lightening fast reply Mike. I took one weak leave from work to do this job, so your reply just made my day!
1. Yes, all makes sense now, and cleared my doubts and confusion. I phoned my local Lexus dealership, and they've sent me the camshaft reinstall chapter from their genuine Workshop Service Manual. According to the WSM, you should first turn the crank pulley and have its notch aligned with the idler screw, i.e. the pulley bolt, the timing notch, and the idler screw should be on a straight line. I assume this crank position sets the pistons low enough to avoid interference? Indeed, the RH cams are dot-dot, and it's the RH cams which should be set at the 10deg offset after installing. Following the WSM:
Install the RH camshafts.
(1) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the intake
and exhaust camshafts.
(2) Align the timing marks (1 dot mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven main gears, and place the intake
and exhaust camshafts.
(3) Set the timing mark (1 dot mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven main gears at approx. 10 ̊ angle.
As for the LH cams the manual describes the procedure similarly, but using double-dot marks, however without setting the 10deg offset.
Now my question is, what is that 10deg offset for, and what is the correct way to bring the external intake cam marks and the crank to TDC, i.e which sprocket to rotate first and in what direction ? Unfortunately, the piece of the WSM they've sent me doesn't describe that.
2. The car has now just over 200k miles, so I thought to take the cams out, do the cam seals, front crank seal, and rebuild the VVTi units using 2.5mm VITON orings as a preventative measure. The famous "while you're there, you might just do the..."
No problem - glad it made sense! Also really glad you've got the WSM, as there's a few gotchas that could catch you out if you just 'eyeball' it!! ;-)
I checked my own WSM and yes, it is just the RHS cams that are offset on removal, but interestingly, and this is where my advice above came from, BOTH sides need to be offset by 10 degrees on re-installation... I took my camshafts out without the WSM, hence I never noticed that slight difference.
Regarding why offset? Basically, it's because the dots on the cams are for engine timing, not installation/removal (as you noticed, single dots = TDC, double dots are just 180 degrees from the single dots). Some cam lobes are engaged at TDC, hence the slight nudge of 10 degrees to ensure the camshaft is sitting flat ready for removal.
On that note, be very gentle with the Cams - they're hollow and can snap if flexed (only designed for rotational force to be applied). So long as the crank is retarded as the WSM says, you can't damage anything, so don't be afraid to play with their positioning a bit if needed (I remember I had to!).
Good luck! :-)
@@MikeMacful Totally agree on the "better to have the WSM", than have not. The devil is in the details, and there are some important points one could easily skip/not know about.
Assuming once I'm done, and the cams are in their place (RH set 10 deg on single dots, LH on double dots, 180 deg), crank at the point suggested in the WSM - am I free to rotate both cams however I want without being afraid to damage the valves?
If so, I would then rotate both, the RH, and LH intakes counterclockwise so much so that both cams get back to TDC and both their gears are on single dots. Then I would rotate counterclockwise the crank back to TDC, and get ready to put the timing belt on?
Do you think this sounds like a good plan?
@@robertzmijan4002 that’s basically how I did it. Just be sure to have the cams lying fully on each journal before you put the caps in - it’s fiddly, but take your time.
Good job!
Wow the one thing I wanted to ask is how many miles we're on the car when all this took place,i just bought mine with 133k the owner had it very well maintained by a Toyota mechanic but never did the timing belt water pump,it is leaking a very small amount of oil which he said he believed Was coming from the cam seals,after further inspection I agree with that, the car doesn't blow any smoke out on start up or at all so I am confident this car should last a good while after I get this done.i know u didn't buy it expecting all that I am happy u got it straight its a beautiful car. Now I'm gonna watch the sway bar vid I am very curious to see if that helps I'm sure it has to. that was my first concern when I took a turn a little to fasts there anything I can do to tighten this up,i do. realize its not a sport car its luxury, but it does move pretty fast for what it is, thanks again for making these.
Thank you! Glad you like!
In answer, mine was approaching 130K miles when I started the work and, other than rubber gaskets, seals etc wearing was in pretty good shape. My one mistake gave me a lot of unnecessary work, although, as you'll see, I didn't spot (or the shop that did the stem seals didn't spot) that some exhaust valve-guides were worn too. If yours doesn't smoke on start up then leave them alone, though, but do check the valve clearances - if the cams are out it'd be silly not to.
My videos aside, though, the 3UZ is a great engine, so I certainly wouldn't take my videos as indicating there's issues with them. I would, however, get water pump and T/B done soonest and do the thermostat while you're in there - they're pretty easy jobs and very important.
I am a DIY also. Own a GS350 AWD with the 2GR-FSE. Starting on it next week. The upper oil pan and lower oil pan must be removed to pull the timing chain cover off. If you did the same then how did you lift the engine up to get the upper oil pan off or just dropped down 2 inches to remove the chain cover? I looked on the Club Lexus site for hours and no help.
3UZ-FE has a timing belt, so it’s totally different to remove. In terms of removing the 430’s oil pan I think the engine had to be lifted a bit to allow access/clearance, but I’ve not had to do that myself, sorry!
Mike...would you not have noticed the that LH camshaft was a 180 degrees out when you put the timing belt back on......or are you saying on the left hand side that you lined up the 1-dot mark with the 2-dot mark ?? I am confused as to what you mean that you were 180 out of time ......Please explain and thank you for all you do in helping others ..
Basically, I made two mistakes here... bear with me!
First, I was lining up the cams single dot to single dot (correct for the RH bank, but not the LH where you use double dot to double dot) - that was my fault for watching a video of the RH bank and assuming it was the same on the LH... On its own, this is not necessarily an issue, so long as the crank is in the 'non interrupt' position, as you could then rotate the cams to the correct position (timing mark is on the intake cam sprocket) and everything will go fine from there. However, the reason you wouldn't do that is because the cam lobes' position at the single dot setting will make it very difficult to get the cams sitting flush in their channels to bolt them down (and the timing mark on the intake cam would be 180 degrees out initially which would be obviously wrong)!
My second mistake was what really created the issue - one of the dots on one of the cams was filled with gunk and oil, so in the dark it looked like a single dot, but was actually a double dot. This meant that I 'accidentally' installed one cam in the correct orientation and the other 180 degrees out by lining up a single dot to a double dot. At the time it was night, I was tired and I can't remember exactly how I got everything to then line up, but I suspect it was the intake cam that was wrong as that would explain the bent intake valves and, looking at it the next time I had the heads off, there was only one time when an out of phase Intake cam would cause valves to hit and that was on Cyl 3, which had 2 x bent valves, with the rest being fine.
Hope that makes sense? :D
@@MikeMacful Thank you very much for the detailed explanation......much appreciated.....
I am currently working on a 2006 Sequoia VVT-i 4.7L ...pretty much same setup to do camshaft seals...... however my FSM states to set the crankshaft pulley position as follows: "Turn the pulley clockwise and align the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley with the centers of the crankshaft pulley bolt and No 2 idler pulley bolt ( approx. 50 degrees after TDC ) .......with your FSM it stated that you did 40 degrees before TDC......
so the question is "do we do this before or after taking the timing belt off" ?
Is the purpose for having the crank at the correct position is to prevent valves from banging pistons when turning and removing camshafts ? And also having the camshafts at the right position with service bolt installed to alleviate any pressure on lifters from cam lobes. Hopefully, cam lobes are in the correct position to prevent so on re-installation they lay flat as you mentioned.
Last question.......Is it neccesary for both intake and exhaust to come out at same time or can one just remove the intake, change the seal, and re-install.....Is it really necessary to take out exhaust as well and all 22 bearing cap bolts ?
I am assuming the safest bet is to remove both at once....
I am at the point of removing my camshafts but I have not loosen any bearing caps yet. I removed the belt with camshaft pulley mark set to the "T" mark. so crank is set short of the 50 degree mark.
Your answer here to these questions and words of advice are greatly appreciated. Thank you again for your excellent videos and advice to others.
@@bilge77 you set the crank BTDC before removing the belt, and then it doesn’t matter what you do with the cams as they can’t interrupt. You may be able to just remove one cam but I doubt it as when you’re getting them into position to lay flat there’s a need to be able to move them freely against each other - I would just remove both. Other than that I think you were ok and if you’ve got the service manual you just need to follow it.
@@MikeMacful Thanks once again for your advice. My setting is at approx 50 degrees after TDC where the crankshaft pulley mark will align with the centers of the crankshaft pulley bolt and idler pulley bolt. according to my FSM
I believe for your GS430 it was 40 BTDC ? So you would left of the "0" mark on crankshaft pulley cover, right ?
@@bilge77 I’d need to check my manual but that sounds right. There should be a diagram in yours showing the correct marks and how they line up
Might be better to buy an old Chevy and keep it running. 6 months to fix a problem because of the massive complexity of these engines seems absurd. I have a '97 LS400 and it's been wonderful - but it needs a timing belt soon - and maybe some valve cover gaskets...
If the option for an old LS-powered beater was realistic in the UK I’d probably be doing exactly that! 😀.
In fairness, the 6-month turnaround was partly successively waiting for parts, and that I had minimal time to work on it as I work away from home. I could have been done in a week if I’d been able to just go for it and had all bits to hand.
@@MikeMacfula
I have a 05 ls430 its make the same sound ticking on one side. No codes but it sounds like a diesel. It's still running great but wonder how long it will last
That sounds like a VVT or cam timing issue, I think… needs looked at regardless!!
@@MikeMacful I changed the cam shaft assembly and it runs great no codes now but still ticking. I might change the whole head its only coming from passenger side cam area.
@@Ls-pr9gfI have the same problem with my 06 LS430, but it's not too loud right now. Will give it a look sometime this weekend. Had to stick a helicoil on cylinder #5 and came out great, but want to take heads off to do a nice clean up and replacement for anything needing it