Yet again a "non rebuild able part" rebuilt to factory spec. I believe that was also said of certain stepper motors,and i believe you proved that to be untrue also. Nice work, I very much enjoy viewing your video's although I really shouldn't refer to them as such more of a technical service seminar, as I find myself rewatching several times or referring back to segments to retain parts of the video. Very nice work much appreciated.
Thanks for the compliment. I struggle to do as I'm told so "do not pull apart" is like a challange to me. This video had a mind of its own , totally ad lib and came out well. Proper reality tv. Cheers Kelvin
Just did my 1uz vvti cam gear o rings. Thanks to this video, I felt comfortable enough to do it in the car. (My cam seals were already done a few years back). A little trick I can share: heat up the cam phaser and stuck-on/hardened o ring with a heat gun for a minute. This softened up the old o ring and I was able to shave it off the phaser cover in one piece with great ease. When it was cold, it was just as brittle and stuck on as the ones in the video. And one mistake I made: forgot to remove the 10mm Allen on the cam gear. So the center sprocket came out. Took me two hours to get it all together and aligned correctly.
CartuneNZ So I got the car fired back up. It drove well for about 50 miles and then threw p1346 and p1349 on the third drive. I fear my vvti gear isn’t aligned correctly inside. Have you got a video on reassembling the 3 pieces?
your videos are awesome :) keep up the great work. i'm having fun chasing seemingly random vvt issues on my 3uz is200 swap with standalone ecu (motorsport electronics me442, similar hardware to link g4 fury) and wiring loom from phoenix engine management in the uk. got a feeling i'll be following this video to pull apart and service the vvt on my engine soon :( many thanks for sharing your knowledge, all the way from scotland. cheers.
I was reading a Lexus Forum on the O-rings, someone tested out both M2x77 & M2.5x77. Upon his test fitting he mentioned that the 2.5 is too big meanwhile the M2 is as good as it wasn’t going to get. He’s had his on for 3 years with no problems or leaks.
Hey Kelvin, Im confused of the LH cam alignment for removal. At exactly TDC, the gears are aligned single-dot to single-dot, however the service bolt hole for the exhaust gear is not accessible. Do I need to turn the cam 180 degrees to align the double-dot to double-dot in order to insert the service bolt? If so, which direction (clockwise and counter-clockwise) is best for both removal and when realigning to put the belt back on?
@@tonyisgonetomorrow I am having an issue related to this, I assembled the LH side (drivers) using the double dots and I’m getting a ping sound went rotating the engine with the belt I’m assuming the cams are out of time? But all the marks line up.
@@chasebonine2331Kelvin has been pretty responsive on other social medias, I'm just a pizza man with a ratchet and a dream. I would double check torque/sequence of every bolt I took out. I believe most of the bolts around the cap are 66inlbs (in freedom). Also, can you tell at or around which part of the ping is coming from? A channel called Mikes V8 Garage has a video of his repair after muffing a 4.3 cam on the left bank.
Hey Dylan, best practice for this situation I also ran into is to reinstall tensioners, crank bolt, and timing belt, get everything aligned, spin revolutions till you can install service belt, and then spin until it all aligns again then disassemble again. Cars are fun.
O ring is 3 mm thick,68 mm internal diameter , use high temp compatible silicon. Pack of 5 ring around 10$. Also no need to remove valve cover or cam shaft., remove timing belt and remove pully and then remove the Do Not remove screws per video.clean off old hard ring..MAKE SURE TO MARK MULTIPLE LOCATIONS ON THE EDGE So IT GOES BACK EXACTLY.
Again great info. If the leak has been confirmed from the front then flicking the front cover off is pretty simple. Ill remember to look here when I need that o-ring measurement. Cheers Kelvin
I know that works on the 2jz replacing them without pulling cams. But I thought the 1uz/3uz was different? So you can rebuild the vvti gear/seals without pulling cams like the 2jz?
Really great video(s), thanks! Liked, subscribed and am now working through the back catalog. Really detailed and useful for the DIY'er! I wish I'd found your channel BEFORE I started a valve cover gasket, spark plug seal and front timing cover gasket replacement on my 'new' GS430... ... which considering there's also oil on the front of the engine, once I got the timing cover off, I suspect is also the cam seals too, so your videos are going to be a Godsend!
Well I’ve just dismantled the right VVTi unit and the O-Ring was goosed! Going to do the lot now, VVTi, and cam seals both sides, daft not to. I wouldn’t have gone near any of it without your videos, so thanks again. I do have two questions though - when rebuilding the VVTi unit, it looks like you’ve used a sealant of some kind between the two halves. What is that? Also, what torque would you recommend for the VVTi bolts? I know they’re not tight but don’t want to create leaks by going too loose, nor crimp the O ring going too tight!! Advice appreciated...
@@MikeMacful well done. If I'm ever being extra careful I'll use a tiny smear of locktite 518 flange sealant. I tighten to feel which isnt helpful for watchers. I should dig out the proper torque settings.
I’m getting a misfire on 1,3,5,6,&7 and also a code for the vvt solenoid I replaced the solenoids and that code went away but the misfire codes are still there and the car still misfires. Should I replace the ocv filter too?
Thx kelvin, I put in 3.5 mm thick 68 mm ID SILICON high temp ring in it. Cost 10$ for 5. Also did this without removing camshaft. Took timing belt off but without removing valve cover. 3 k miles and no leak so far.
Excellent video!!! I'm glad you touched on the service bolt for the scissor gears...well done. Did the seal replacement on the "non serviceable" VVT gear do its job??
Kelvin, why do think Toyota made it a non-serviceable part - your fix seems logical and economic - massive thanks for sharing your nuggets of knowledge with us all
I believe its recommended by toyota as being non serviceable due to product techniques. I'd suggest toyota purchase the vvti actuator as a complete unit so internal parts never made it into their parts array.
@@CartuneNZ thanks for the quick reply, that is a good point. Just pulled my 98 LS400 UCF20 engine yesterday in prep for a 22yr refresh - your videos show some classic kiwi injacunning, top effort mate.
Absolutely incredible video. I have an 04 LS430 about ready for a timing belt replacement and was gearing up for cam and crank seal replacements. THANK YOU for taking the time to film this as it was very helpful. Nice work on tackling the non-serviceable gears as well. I was curious how many kilometers/miles this vehicle has or if this was after the first timing belt replacement. My vehicle has just crossed over 94,000 miles and I was planning on waiting to replace the cam/crank seals until the vehicles second (replacement) timing belt. I am now considering replacing these O rings as well with the seals while I am in there. Thanks again! Chris (Rochester NY)
Hello Chris. As this was a secondhand engine when fitted to the conversion I'm not certian on kms sorry. Im sure it lacked maintenance. In most cases Ive been fine going two cambelts on each camseal change but as the engines age doing them every time will become more important. If the cars been well looked after I'd be fine leaving cam seals until next time. Cheers Kelvin.
"QUESTION" Great Video, I have a 2002 LEXUS LS430 with 3UZ engine I replaced my timing belt an waterpump about 11k ago, my LS430 has 87k miles..When I replace timing belt an water pump, I didnt replace crankshaft seal being wasnt leaking, or cam seals werent leaking either. I checked valve cover no leaks, from top of engine. My luck I'm seeing a small oil leak starting right behind the plastic crankshaft spoket cover excatly where the seal is. I replaced tensioner last week, I removed right timing cover an looked with my light, I can see damp oil down by behind crankshaft sproketm seeing slight oil leaking their sitting againt the engine block...Is any other culprit can cause that leak too make it seem like oil leak is coming from other crankshaft seal ????I would appreciate your opinion, or anyone who seemingly had a crankshaft seal leaking????????Thanks
Hi, just a quick question regarding vvti cams. I've just bought a set of replacement 2nd hand cams and I've noticed on the inlet just in front of the gears the replacement ones have a thrust washer built in that fouls against the old head. Have you any idea why or when they changed the cam design? Cheers kelvin
G'day Kelvin! I found a trail of pink crust drizzling down the front of the engine, originating from the water pump. I ordered a water pump/timing belt kit, which includes cam seals. After watching this video, I realized that the cam seals for my vvti don't simply pop into the front of the cam pulleys like they do in the earlier non-vvti UZ's (as shown in another of your videos). Should I expect to find my cam seals sitting behind the "non serviceable cam pulley assemblies"? Also, could you publish the ID or dash# of the 2.5mm thick o-ring that sits against the gear face (the ones you scraped off with a razor)? Many thanks Mate!
Thank you so much for these 3UZ videos. Helped me bring back to life good old 2003 LS430. Also the nature outside (on the other videos) is incredible! I ran into strange DTC situation. Got P1340 after replacing the seal ring in the VVTi tube (the one that is not serviceable :-) They say P1340 is camsensor circuit malfunction, but replacing sensor & all it acessible wiring won't help. Plus, P1340 came out only in one specific case: driving & holding 2-3k revs for about ten seconds. Steadily getting it. So I think: can it be not wiring or sensor? Can it be because of incorrect VVTi tube assembling or something like that? Looks like DTC came exactly when VVTi supposed to work, as I understand it. I'd appreciate for your thoughts on the situation and when I should investigate it further.
I have been quite reluctant to attempt my timing belt and cam seal replacement on my 3uz crown . i now am not and am considering starting it right now at 12 AM after watching 3 hours of your videos haha, really great informative down to earth videos . really appreciate you taking the time to spread your knowledge. one quick question .. do you recommend replacing the cam seals if there is no sign of leakage? will be its first belt change cars done 97,000 uzs186. Thanks / Shaun Whangarei
Hi Kelvin, I think I've found the culprit, though I might (and hoping to) be wrong. The rough idle, noticeable rattle on the LH bank when engine warm, and the misfires are possibly caused by the LH bank exhaust valve clearance coming to nearly.... 0 on cyl 1. One valve has below 0.03, the other 0.05... The RH bank exhaust is: four valves sit at 0.18, other four at 0.2 - also NOT good. Shall I not bother and just take the LH head unit for the valves job, or is there a small chance that after replacing the shims things get back to "normal" TBH, I've lost hope, but let me know what you think.
Great video. My ls430 has a code P0021 something wrong with the vvti gear. It cost a lot to buy a new gear since its not fixble. After this video i wounder if this o ring cause the vvti gear to lose oil pressure so the variable timing is not working. The engine has no power in low revs. If this might be the problem can You share the size of the O ring . Much appreciated
Hello. If the unit isnt functioning correctly then codes can occur however more often than not it is other issues. I have seen lots of incorrect cam timing and the VVti solenoids failing. These are more likely an issue. Cheers Kelvin
Is it possible to lock the vvti system on the 1uzfe? If I get cams for my motor, is it better to try to lock the vvti in place or still let the system try to control them?
All of the class controlled 1uz vvti engines here in NZ racing in the dirttrack cars have their vvti locked to comply with the rules. Personally in most situations having the vvti operating will give better performance. Look at all the current vehicle manfacturers, most have vvti for good reason. Cheers Kelvin
Hi Kelvin i've bee looking at your video recently as im replacing cam seals and o-rings on a 98 1uz vvti i unfortunately had the gear unit come out on the left side and cant seam to get both the gears back in the housing your video shows where the need to be placed but they don't want to go in is it an interference fit im freezing the gears tonight to see if that helps?
@@CartuneNZ please do, got the rh bank aligned with service bolt through, unfortunately at tdc the hole for the lh service bolt is hiding underneath the cam
I have an LS430 that sounds exactly like the tractor video. I recently replaced my engine with a used engine that I suspected had recent dead work due to the pristine cleanliness of the head. Can I set preload on the scissor gear with the cam in the engine?
Good morning Shawn. That was a little confusing for me as I have another video with a tractor with a 1uz, haha. Anyway, did you watch this video showing the removal of the cams? As it shows the scissor gears meshed with the other gear so its not possible to rotate as the other gear is in the way. Camshaft requires removal to preload the scissor. Cheers Kelvin.
Hey Kelvin got the scissors gears locked up and thanks for responding last time. I had a bit of a worry taking the belt off had everything at TDC all marks lined up and the Left-side Cam had tension and snapped back a bit CCW. Didn't hear anything but I'm assuming it was the tension you talk about in this video. Do you think everything will be alright? I moved it back to TDC and everything seemed fine. Cheers again your videos have been very helpful through the VVTI engine.
Kelvin should both cams be line-up single dot to single dot at TDC? I'm getting a bit of confusion from other sources saying one should be single dot-single dot and the other should be double dot-double dot. 1998 LS400 if that helps any. I have everything at TDC and both cams are single dot-single dot. Any help appreciated before removing them.
@@CartuneNZ Ok was just making sure it's good where it is. I noticed everything is single dot-single dot at TDC I'm just going to remove and reinstall. I think many people follow the service manual and it gives a different process.
Kelvin got everything torn down but the camshaft isn't budging trying to remove it. In your video it just pops out really easily and I'm worried I might damage something if I pull any harder. Should I lightly tap with a rubber mallet? I removed the cam caps and even loosened the exhaust side cam caps as well but left them on how you have in your video but its just not budging.
Is it possible that a 3UZ's leaking VVTI gear can cause misfires on that bank? Since about 10 months, my LS430 was giving me a few light shakes on idle every now an then. The jerks are are a bit stronger when starting from cold engine, and are more pronounced when the engine temp gauge passes about the first mark on the dash. On normal operating temp. the effect is very light, however still noticeable, as these V8s should be super-smooth if running properly. A couple of months ago via techstream I have seen logged misfires on the whole bank 1 - cyls 1,3,5,7 with the misfire counts 26, 24,8,2 respectively. Last week though, the engine check light came on for a couple of secs, and went away - I've checked the codes again, and the misfire events went into hundreds - again only on the same set of cyl's. What I can be sure is that the VVTI solenoid on that bank is new (I've replaced it about a month ago), and the coils and sparks are also fine, as I've tried to swap them with the other bank, with no effect. Also, to my ear, on idle, bank 1 has a light but distinct knock - what I suspect coming from the VVTI cover, rather than the valve cover. The car has just passed 200k miles, with 100k timing service done (allegedly) by the Lexus dealer. Any takes?
Thats interesting. I have had a couple of actuators fail and rattle. If the cam isnt moving there may be a chance its causing your issue. Its due for a belt anyway so good time to flick cams out and inspect everything. Good luck. Let me know how you get on. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ I suspect the O2 upstream (air/fuel ratio) sensor on that bank (1) might be going bad - I mean giving false reading to the ECU. From freeze frame data I've found that at the event of the misfire on bank 1 the long term fuel trim was -14.1, and on bank 2 near 0. I suspect this is telling the ECU to go super lean (for some strange reason) - which might explain hitting the misfire threshold. I think I'll change the O2 first and see what happens. If this turns out to be true, I'm hoping this condition (too lean) didn't cause too much damage, as I've been probably driving for quite a long time (20-30 k miles) until recently (when I saw the CEL). Definitely will let you know here. Cheers!
Hi, I would love some input if you've got the time. I just did a timing belt service at 225k. I used your videos to help guide me through this. I decided I would replace the timing belt, both cam sensors, the VVTi sensor, crank seal, cam seals, and water pump. Finally got through it all and noticed, upon start up, a clacking sound like in the customers clip from this video. I went in to attempt to close up the spider gear to fix the backlash issue causing the noise. I tried to put a bolt in the hole on the gear and there was some kind of stud looking object in the hole preventing me from cinching up the spider gear. I then tried using a C clamp to close up the gap with no success. I cranked it again and found even louder clacking noises. I found out the oil control solenoid on bank 1 was stuck. I replaced both solenoids and cranked the engine to find the original clacking noise present. I drove the car briefly to find that it drove fine until heavy throttle was applied. At full throttle, the clacking noise got increasingly loud. I also realised I forgot to ensure both the actuators were fully retarded upon install. Since I already had the engine fully assembled, I figured I could just pull the valve covers off and use the square part of the cam in the middle to very gently wrench it over to feel for the adjustment of the actuator on the cam without turning the motor over and in turn setting both of the actuators fully retarded. When I first got into the valve covers I did find that bank 2 actuator was fully retarded and bank 1 was fully advanced. So after that adjustment, I started the car and noticed no clacking noise, i took it for slow drive until it was warmed up. I then gave it wide open throttle and found the engine lacking power and once I let off the throttle, the computer threw the same 3 codes it's had since the start. I don't remember the 3rd one but one is P1346 and the next is P1351. 2 of the codes read as bank 1 and bank 2 cam position sensor and the last one reads as VVTi control circuit performance/range. Any ideas? Maybe something else to check? It seems like the car runs flawlessly and quiet on a gentle ride. The issue is at WOT. I've had my suspicions that the actuators are not advancing timing correctly. But I'm not sure why.
I know kelvin says it can’t happen. Usually I’d agree, but I actually did have one leaking tremendously out the front cam/vvti gear and valve cover, it was slinging oil everywhere and pooling up, and was leaking down exhaust and filling up where the header or donut gaskets leaked. I know a very rare chance but once I fixed oil leaks let it run for a few hours and burn all the oil out exhaust never had issue again
Sooooo thankful my car is a gen 1, series 1, WITHOUT VVTi! So what if I'm down 50 hp? If I wanted to, it would be easy enough to make that up with some mods.
@@CartuneNZ See, that's the difference between us. You're a seasoned pro, while I'm quite a moron who just does some DIY. Hahahahaha. I need things as idiot-proof as can be!
Man, This is incredibly helpful. I am about to change the timing belt/ water pump/ valve cover seals on my 3uz (2002 Lexus SC430 110K Miles) Watching your vid's makes me way more confident. I do however have a couple of questions. 1. Since Im not a pro like you that can "Feel" the proper torque settings, do you have a recommendation on where I can find the proper torque settings for my 3uz? Including taking out the cams, valve cover gasket bolts etc? I really want to be able to sleep at night knowing nothing is too loose or too tight. And 2. The "O-Ring" on the VVTi. you said it was 2.5mm what is the diameter? Thanks for these vids! you rock! Andrew (Orlando FL, USA)
Hello Andrew. I also got your email. For the o-ring I sent my helper with a sample to see the very attractive parts girl and she matched up a suitable o-ring and we never took a measurement sorry. If you find a FSM the torque settings are in there. Some of the early settings work but cam nuts of 3uz are different. I'm starting to put some of that info onto my facebook page via my google drive however haven't done 3uz torque settings yet. Cheers Kelvin
Just another conversion really , like any other. How hard comes done to how much knowledge you have , your ability and the time you have available. Cheers Kelvin
Hey Kelvin, Doing my cam seals for the first time and wanted to ask if the 6mm "service bolt" is something I need to purchase? If so, do you happen to know the exact size/ specs of that bolt so I can pick one up? Thanks in advance.
Another great vid Kelvin. My 1UZ series one is super quiet when cold and if you listen closely after start up with bonnet open. Once it gets close to operating temp it almost suddenly commences a 'rattling sounds', Its not real loud, but I can notice it above other noises like injectors. After recently checking all valve clearances and completing a compression test (Everything in spec). I was looking on Lexus forum and found out people were having issues with the scissor gear 'Wave washer' and that sounds like what my noise could be. Interested to hear if you have ever replaced these before ?
Hello Bob. I have never replaced a wave washer. Most of the 1uz's I work on (which is just a couple as you can see) are quiet. I have a video specific to scissor gears on my list for a later video. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ Ok thanks Kelvin. I might give it some more time to figure out. I would bring it to you in a heart beat but have a slight issue of being on the other side of the Pond.
Thanks so much for your videos Kelvin. This one is very helpful as I'm about to change cam seals on my 1UZ. I also like the one about how to hook up the CEL. Question - if all it takes for the "part you should never open" is a new o-ring why do you think Toyota doesn't just sell the part so that people can rebuild these?
Hello. It seems crazy not to sell the o-ring. Same goes with other similar vvti vehicles like altezza and Jz stuff. Chances are Toyota purchases the actuators complete from their suppliers. Seems like a stuff up to me
Hello sir, my mechanics replaced both cam seals and crankshaft seal. They put everything back together without checking the VVTI seals and found out one of the gears is leaking oil. Is there a way to just removing the front of the cam gear? Or do the valve cover and cam shafts have to be removed entirely? Please, help me good man. Thank you sir.
Hi, Kelvin, thank you so much for the whole series of fantastic videos. I'm just due a timing job on my 3uz fe VVTI at 200k miles, and thought It would be a good opportunity to change those vvti seals. My question is: in order to take the intake cams out safely, do you line up and lock the crank/cams sharp at TDC, or 50 deg. ATDC? Question 2 - It's clear how to lock the scissor gears, but what's the best way to lock the entire exhaust cam in place, so it doesn't move during the removal of the intake one? Q3 - Are there any timing marks that allow to (double)check the correctness of the exhaust cam timing ?
Hello. I generally use the TDC marks and don't have any issues with them flicking around. The T (timing marks are there if you want) , However I always confirm timing on the correct marks once finished. There are dots on the back of the cam scissor gears to confirm their alignment as well. Again I don't worry about the exhaust gear moving as I align on reassembly. Hope that helps. This might help too. th-cam.com/video/cl35CcdhS_I/w-d-xo.html Cheers Kelvin
Hi Kelvin, It's been a while and finally I've got some time to do the timing belt and the VVTi seals on my 3UZ (2004 LS430). I find a lot of confusing information (other YT channels and forums) as to the dots setting on the back of the cam gears. Some people say the 3UZ RH cams should be dot-to-dot, and the LH should be set at double_dot-to-double_dot. I gather from the "Mike’s V8 Garage" on YT, he set his 3UZ cams on dot-to-dot for both (RH and LH) and bent cyl 3 valves (LH bank)... I'm afraid of making a devastating and costly mistake. Can you confirm what the correct setting for both banks on the 2004 LS430 VVTi 3UZ should be?
Apparently single dot-to-dot on both banks is the correct way. I phoned my local Lexus dealership, and they've sent me the camshaft reinstall chapter from their Workshop Service Manual. According to the WSM, you should first turn the crank pulley and have its notch aligned with the idler screw, i.e. the pulley bolt, the timing notch, and the idler screw should be on a straight line. I assume this crank position sets the pistons low enough to avoid interference? The RH cams should be set at the 10deg offset after installing. Following the WSM: Install the RH camshafts. (1) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the intake and exhaust camshafts. (2) Align the timing marks (1 dot mark) of the camshaft drive and driven main gears, and place the intake and exhaust camshafts. (3) Set the timing mark (1 dot mark) of the camshaft drive and driven main gears at approx. 10 ̊ angle. As for the LH cams the manual describes the procedure similarly but using double-dot marks instead, however without setting the 10deg offset. The problem is, if I assemble the LH cams on the double dots, I'll get them 180deg out of phase to start with. Now, in what order and in which direction do I rotate the LH intake cam, the RH intake cam, and the crank so I'm safely back to TDC marks everywhere, and I don't end-up causing damage to the engine? Unfortunately, the piece of the WSM they've sent me doesn't cover how to do that, and I do not want to risk taking chances.
@@robertzmijan4002 Did you ever figure out how to do the LH cam properly? In order to align them so that the service bolt is accessible, the two double-dots must line up. Which directions did you turn the cam to do this both when removing and reassembling?
Hey brother! I’m state side but I’ve just don’t cam seals and TB but could use some advice after the fact. Is there any way I could reach you to pick your brain a bit?
Best way is to lock them up before pulling apart. If you didnt do that then putting into the vice and rotating the scissors is necessary. I have a video coming next year. Cheers Kelvin
Thanks again for such amazing videos and for sharing your crazy deep knowledge of the 1uz and 3uz engines. I am so grateful. I Just did a timing belt/ water pump, and valve cover gasket job with seals on my 2003 Toyota Tundra 5vz. It went really well, so I have more confidence in doing the next car. Except for ht fact that the other car, 3uz is an interference engine unlike the 5vz. I have watched this video and your timing belt video at least half-dozen times before I go dig into my 3uz (2002 SC430) I have a couple more questions. 1. I'm really concerned about taking out the cams when I replace the seals. I am afraid of the cams being under tension once I take off the timing belt, and then springing over and damaging the valves or piston heads. How to you keep this from happening? Remove spark plugs? 2. The 6mm bolt that goes into the back of the exhaust cam gear. It seems as though the left and right side bolts need to be installed before removing the timing belt, and removed after the new belt is re-installed. accessing them by turning the crank so that both cams and crank turn together. Is this correct? again, I am really afraid of turning the cams, either installing or uninstalling that bolt without cams and crank turning together. 3. In one of the service manuals I found, It says to move the timing marks on the cams to the "T" position before removing the timing belt. saying, this will keep the cams from springing over. however, I have not seen you use those marks in any of your videos. What is the "T" position for? Thanks Andrew
Hello Andrew. Well done on doing the 5vz. I did another video on the front marks which might help too. I think I explain the T as it does cause confusion. The little 6mm is best installed while the belt is still fitted. Engine can be turned over with them in no issue. The T marks are to take the tension off the cams. Taking spark plugs out is a good idea when doing cambelt to make rotating engine easier. Cheers Kelvin
This was the other video I watched a few times. but I didn't notice any explanation of the "T" marks. just noticed you didn't use them. Is there another video explaining that? or reason why you don't?
Try this one th-cam.com/video/cl35CcdhS_I/w-d-xo.html I'm pretty sure I touched on the T marks. I have a couple more 3uz engine to do timing belts on coming up. One has only done 60000kms so cams will be staying in place but second one might get cam seals. I rarely bother with the T marks as I have my way which works well and I never have issues. Cheers
I used two different ones but I suspect you mean the Wurth Grey in a can I used on the front cam cap. It's a great product and I happily use it in place of the factory threebond. Cheers Kelvin
Hi mate can you please help me, I did my cam seal all works good but now i have tappet nose lifters ticking , do you know way and how to get that fixed Thanks love your video they do help out a lot
i just realized that its scissor gears that you talked about at the start of the video i haven't locked my ones , how would I return them back in to the position ? is that as easy as just aligning the bolt hole or is it more complex , thanks
Hello Hisham. Sorry I might have missed yours. Swapped providers lately and get around 50 each day. Flick me another and Ill confirm I have received it on here. Cheers Kelvin
Yet again a "non rebuild able part" rebuilt to factory spec. I believe that was also said of certain stepper motors,and i believe you proved that to be untrue also. Nice work, I very much enjoy viewing your video's although I really shouldn't refer to them as such more of a technical service seminar, as I find myself rewatching several times or referring back to segments to retain parts of the video. Very nice work much appreciated.
Thanks for the compliment. I struggle to do as I'm told so "do not pull apart" is like a challange to me. This video had a mind of its own , totally ad lib and came out well. Proper reality tv. Cheers Kelvin
Just did my 1uz vvti cam gear o rings. Thanks to this video, I felt comfortable enough to do it in the car. (My cam seals were already done a few years back). A little trick I can share: heat up the cam phaser and stuck-on/hardened o ring with a heat gun for a minute. This softened up the old o ring and I was able to shave it off the phaser cover in one piece with great ease. When it was cold, it was just as brittle and stuck on as the ones in the video. And one mistake I made: forgot to remove the 10mm Allen on the cam gear. So the center sprocket came out. Took me two hours to get it all together and aligned correctly.
Glad you got it done. Great tip of using the heat gun to warm the rubber. Often great solutions are simple. Cheers Kelvin
CartuneNZ So I got the car fired back up. It drove well for about 50 miles and then threw p1346 and p1349 on the third drive. I fear my vvti gear isn’t aligned correctly inside. Have you got a video on reassembling the 3 pieces?
@@flubyux2 only this one.
@@flubyux2 Did you get it fixed?
Starting on one of these tomorrow. Glad I found this video,it was very helpful. Thank you. Thumbs up from the US. Thanks mate!
I'm very strict about my torque at my shop...but your "torque appropriately" is pretty funny.
You are THE BEST. THE BEST. THE BEST. So good it’s annoying watching your POV’s 😂 makes me feel stupid. THANK YOU!
your videos are awesome :) keep up the great work. i'm having fun chasing seemingly random vvt issues on my 3uz is200 swap with standalone ecu (motorsport electronics me442, similar hardware to link g4 fury) and wiring loom from phoenix engine management in the uk. got a feeling i'll be following this video to pull apart and service the vvt on my engine soon :( many thanks for sharing your knowledge, all the way from scotland. cheers.
Cool as. More vvti diagnostic stuff coming and more 3uz stuff coming too. Cheers Kelvin
U r the best Dr in the world. Thanks
Thanks. Provided its a 1uz doctor then Im good with that. Cheers Kelvin
I was reading a Lexus Forum on the O-rings, someone tested out both M2x77 & M2.5x77. Upon his test fitting he mentioned that the 2.5 is too big meanwhile the M2 is as good as it wasn’t going to get. He’s had his on for 3 years with no problems or leaks.
Cool. I still prefer the slightly larger diameter to improve o-ring crush. And I do a few of them.
Hey Kelvin, Im confused of the LH cam alignment for removal. At exactly TDC, the gears are aligned single-dot to single-dot, however the service bolt hole for the exhaust gear is not accessible. Do I need to turn the cam 180 degrees to align the double-dot to double-dot in order to insert the service bolt? If so, which direction (clockwise and counter-clockwise) is best for both removal and when realigning to put the belt back on?
Ran into the same issue tonight, did you ever get it sorted?
@@tonyisgonetomorrow I am having an issue related to this, I assembled the LH side (drivers) using the double dots and I’m getting a ping sound went rotating the engine with the belt I’m assuming the cams are out of time? But all the marks line up.
@@chasebonine2331Kelvin has been pretty responsive on other social medias, I'm just a pizza man with a ratchet and a dream. I would double check torque/sequence of every bolt I took out. I believe most of the bolts around the cap are 66inlbs (in freedom).
Also, can you tell at or around which part of the ping is coming from?
A channel called Mikes V8 Garage has a video of his repair after muffing a 4.3 cam on the left bank.
Hey Dylan, best practice for this situation I also ran into is to reinstall tensioners, crank bolt, and timing belt, get everything aligned, spin revolutions till you can install service belt, and then spin until it all aligns again then disassemble again. Cars are fun.
O ring is 3 mm thick,68 mm internal diameter , use high temp compatible silicon. Pack of 5 ring around 10$. Also no need to remove valve cover or cam shaft., remove timing belt and remove pully and then remove the Do Not remove screws per video.clean off old hard ring..MAKE SURE TO MARK MULTIPLE LOCATIONS ON THE EDGE So IT GOES BACK EXACTLY.
Again great info. If the leak has been confirmed from the front then flicking the front cover off is pretty simple. Ill remember to look here when I need that o-ring measurement. Cheers Kelvin
I know that works on the 2jz replacing them without pulling cams. But I thought the 1uz/3uz was different? So you can rebuild the vvti gear/seals without pulling cams like the 2jz?
Really great video(s), thanks! Liked, subscribed and am now working through the back catalog. Really detailed and useful for the DIY'er! I wish I'd found your channel BEFORE I started a valve cover gasket, spark plug seal and front timing cover gasket replacement on my 'new' GS430...
... which considering there's also oil on the front of the engine, once I got the timing cover off, I suspect is also the cam seals too, so your videos are going to be a Godsend!
Glad to be of help. There is plenty on here with more 3uz info on my list. Cheers Kelvin
Well I’ve just dismantled the right VVTi unit and the O-Ring was goosed! Going to do the lot now, VVTi, and cam seals both sides, daft not to. I wouldn’t have gone near any of it without your videos, so thanks again. I do have two questions though - when rebuilding the VVTi unit, it looks like you’ve used a sealant of some kind between the two halves. What is that? Also, what torque would you recommend for the VVTi bolts? I know they’re not tight but don’t want to create leaks by going too loose, nor crimp the O ring going too tight!! Advice appreciated...
@@MikeMacful well done. If I'm ever being extra careful I'll use a tiny smear of locktite 518 flange sealant. I tighten to feel which isnt helpful for watchers. I should dig out the proper torque settings.
I’m getting a misfire on 1,3,5,6,&7 and also a code for the vvt solenoid I replaced the solenoids and that code went away but the misfire codes are still there and the car still misfires. Should I replace the ocv filter too?
This is the excellent video for the topic. He is a brilliant. Thank you .enjoying two 3 Uz on my 18 and 16 year old sc430.
Thanks. Cheers Kelvin
Thx kelvin,
I put in 3.5 mm thick 68 mm ID SILICON high temp ring in it. Cost 10$ for 5. Also did this without removing camshaft. Took timing belt off but without removing valve cover. 3 k miles and no leak so far.
P
Sorry 3 mm thick
Excellent video!!! I'm glad you touched on the service bolt for the scissor gears...well done. Did the seal replacement on the "non serviceable" VVT gear do its job??
Thanks for the compliment. Yes, the o-ring sorted the leak out the front of the vvti gear. Cheers Kelvin
Kelvin, why do think Toyota made it a non-serviceable part - your fix seems logical and economic - massive thanks for sharing your nuggets of knowledge with us all
I believe its recommended by toyota as being non serviceable due to product techniques. I'd suggest toyota purchase the vvti actuator as a complete unit so internal parts never made it into their parts array.
@@CartuneNZ thanks for the quick reply, that is a good point. Just pulled my 98 LS400 UCF20 engine yesterday in prep for a 22yr refresh - your videos show some classic kiwi injacunning, top effort mate.
Thank you for the video! Just to be CLEAR, the single dots on the cam gears get matched up on both left and right sides of engine.
Can i use this video to change the camshaft seals on my 2001 lexus gs430?
Absolutely incredible video. I have an 04 LS430 about ready for a timing belt replacement and was gearing up for cam and crank seal replacements. THANK YOU for taking the time to film this as it was very helpful. Nice work on tackling the non-serviceable gears as well.
I was curious how many kilometers/miles this vehicle has or if this was after the first timing belt replacement. My vehicle has just crossed over 94,000 miles and I was planning on waiting to replace the cam/crank seals until the vehicles second (replacement) timing belt. I am now considering replacing these O rings as well with the seals while I am in there. Thanks again!
Chris
(Rochester NY)
Hello Chris. As this was a secondhand engine when fitted to the conversion I'm not certian on kms sorry. Im sure it lacked maintenance. In most cases Ive been fine going two cambelts on each camseal change but as the engines age doing them every time will become more important. If the cars been well looked after I'd be fine leaving cam seals until next time. Cheers Kelvin.
@@CartuneNZ OK, and thank you again for the video & response! very very helpful information
"QUESTION" Great Video, I have a 2002 LEXUS LS430 with 3UZ engine I replaced my timing belt an waterpump about 11k ago, my LS430 has 87k miles..When I replace timing belt an water pump, I didnt replace crankshaft seal being wasnt leaking, or cam seals werent leaking either. I checked valve cover no leaks, from top of engine. My luck I'm seeing a small oil leak starting right behind the plastic crankshaft spoket cover excatly where the seal is. I replaced tensioner last week, I removed right timing cover an looked with my light, I can see damp oil down by behind crankshaft sproketm seeing slight oil leaking their sitting againt the engine block...Is any other culprit can cause that leak too make it seem like oil leak is coming from other crankshaft seal ????I would appreciate your opinion, or anyone who seemingly had a crankshaft seal leaking????????Thanks
Hi Kevin, the VVT is "glued" together...even with all the torx bolts out cannot get the VVT apart.
Ok, I've showed them apart as they do come apart. Cheers Kelvin
Doing the lords work
thanks. Cheers Kelvin
Hey Kelvin! can you tell me what size the oring you put on the cam was ? there's so many options when I search for 2.5mm oring.
Hi, just a quick question regarding vvti cams. I've just bought a set of replacement 2nd hand cams and I've noticed on the inlet just in front of the gears the replacement ones have a thrust washer built in that fouls against the old head. Have you any idea why or when they changed the cam design? Cheers kelvin
Does the cam have to come off on a 3uz to replace the seal ?
G'day Kelvin! I found a trail of pink crust drizzling down the front of the engine, originating from the water pump. I ordered a water pump/timing belt kit, which includes cam seals. After watching this video, I realized that the cam seals for my vvti don't simply pop into the front of the cam pulleys like they do in the earlier non-vvti UZ's (as shown in another of your videos). Should I expect to find my cam seals sitting behind the "non serviceable cam pulley assemblies"?
Also, could you publish the ID or dash# of the 2.5mm thick o-ring that sits against the gear face (the ones you scraped off with a razor)? Many thanks Mate!
Thank you so much for these 3UZ videos. Helped me bring back to life good old 2003 LS430. Also the nature outside (on the other videos) is incredible!
I ran into strange DTC situation. Got P1340 after replacing the seal ring in the VVTi tube (the one that is not serviceable :-) They say P1340 is camsensor circuit malfunction, but replacing sensor & all it acessible wiring won't help. Plus, P1340 came out only in one specific case: driving & holding 2-3k revs for about ten seconds. Steadily getting it.
So I think: can it be not wiring or sensor? Can it be because of incorrect VVTi tube assembling or something like that? Looks like DTC came exactly when VVTi supposed to work, as I understand it. I'd appreciate for your thoughts on the situation and when I should investigate it further.
I have been quite reluctant to attempt my timing belt and cam seal replacement on my 3uz crown . i now am not and am considering starting it right now at 12 AM after watching 3 hours of your videos haha, really great informative down to earth videos . really appreciate you taking the time to spread your knowledge. one quick question .. do you recommend replacing the cam seals if there is no sign of leakage? will be its first belt change cars done 97,000 uzs186. Thanks / Shaun Whangarei
Hi Kelvin, I think I've found the culprit, though I might (and hoping to) be wrong. The rough idle, noticeable rattle on the LH bank when engine warm, and the misfires are possibly caused by the LH bank exhaust valve clearance coming to nearly.... 0 on cyl 1. One valve has below 0.03, the other 0.05... The RH bank exhaust is: four valves sit at 0.18, other four at 0.2 - also NOT good.
Shall I not bother and just take the LH head unit for the valves job, or is there a small chance that after replacing the shims things get back to "normal"
TBH, I've lost hope, but let me know what you think.
Great video. My ls430 has a code P0021 something wrong with the vvti gear. It cost a lot to buy a new gear since its not fixble. After this video i wounder if this o ring cause the vvti gear to lose oil pressure so the variable timing is not working. The engine has no power in low revs. If this might be the problem can You share the size of the O ring . Much appreciated
Hello. If the unit isnt functioning correctly then codes can occur however more often than not it is other issues. I have seen lots of incorrect cam timing and the VVti solenoids failing. These are more likely an issue. Cheers Kelvin
Is it possible to lock the vvti system on the 1uzfe? If I get cams for my motor, is it better to try to lock the vvti in place or still let the system try to control them?
All of the class controlled 1uz vvti engines here in NZ racing in the dirttrack cars have their vvti locked to comply with the rules. Personally in most situations having the vvti operating will give better performance. Look at all the current vehicle manfacturers, most have vvti for good reason. Cheers Kelvin
Hi Kelvin i've bee looking at your video recently as im replacing cam seals and o-rings on a 98 1uz vvti i unfortunately had the gear unit come out on the left side and cant seam to get both the gears back in the housing your video shows where the need to be placed but they don't want to go in is it an interference fit im freezing the gears tonight to see if that helps?
Ok. We have more vvti cam belt and seals videos coming as lots of people seem to have issues.
@@CartuneNZ please do, got the rh bank aligned with service bolt through, unfortunately at tdc the hole for the lh service bolt is hiding underneath the cam
I have a 1998 ls400 1UZFE VVTi. Any ideas where to find a cam locking tool? Just doing the belt, water pump, seals, and bearings. Thanks in advance
No idea at all as I never use them. Cheers Kelvin
I have an LS430 that sounds exactly like the tractor video. I recently replaced my engine with a used engine that I suspected had recent dead work due to the pristine cleanliness of the head. Can I set preload on the scissor gear with the cam in the engine?
Good morning Shawn. That was a little confusing for me as I have another video with a tractor with a 1uz, haha. Anyway, did you watch this video showing the removal of the cams? As it shows the scissor gears meshed with the other gear so its not possible to rotate as the other gear is in the way. Camshaft requires removal to preload the scissor. Cheers Kelvin.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you for your prompt reply! Hopefully I haven't caused any major damage. I have driven like this for many months.
@@sminton85 you messaged just ar the right time as I'm doing my morning review. Good luck sorting it. Cheers Kelvin.
Hey Kelvin got the scissors gears locked up and thanks for responding last time. I had a bit of a worry taking the belt off had everything at TDC all marks lined up and the Left-side Cam had tension and snapped back a bit CCW. Didn't hear anything but I'm assuming it was the tension you talk about in this video. Do you think everything will be alright? I moved it back to TDC and everything seemed fine. Cheers again your videos have been very helpful through the VVTI engine.
Kelvin should both cams be line-up single dot to single dot at TDC? I'm getting a bit of confusion from other sources saying one should be single dot-single dot and the other should be double dot-double dot. 1998 LS400 if that helps any. I have everything at TDC and both cams are single dot-single dot. Any help appreciated before removing them.
I follow the same process everytime. When I'm taking a good running engine apart, I check how the mark align, then reassemble the same way.
@@CartuneNZ Ok was just making sure it's good where it is. I noticed everything is single dot-single dot at TDC I'm just going to remove and reinstall. I think many people follow the service manual and it gives a different process.
@@sivageist you are correct, the service manual is an issue as people dont read all steps which include rotating the engine. You have it right
@@CartuneNZ Thanks for clearing it up Kelvin. I follow your vids like the 1UZ bible lol. The absolute best.
Kelvin got everything torn down but the camshaft isn't budging trying to remove it. In your video it just pops out really easily and I'm worried I might damage something if I pull any harder. Should I lightly tap with a rubber mallet? I removed the cam caps and even loosened the exhaust side cam caps as well but left them on how you have in your video but its just not budging.
Is it possible that a 3UZ's leaking VVTI gear can cause misfires on that bank? Since about 10 months, my LS430 was giving me a few light shakes on idle every now an then. The jerks are are a bit stronger when starting from cold engine, and are more pronounced when the engine temp gauge passes about the first mark on the dash. On normal operating temp. the effect is very light, however still noticeable, as these V8s should be super-smooth if running properly. A couple of months ago via techstream I have seen logged misfires on the whole bank 1 - cyls 1,3,5,7 with the misfire counts 26, 24,8,2 respectively. Last week though, the engine check light came on for a couple of secs, and went away - I've checked the codes again, and the misfire events went into hundreds - again only on the same set of cyl's. What I can be sure is that the VVTI solenoid on that bank is new (I've replaced it about a month ago), and the coils and sparks are also fine, as I've tried to swap them with the other bank, with no effect. Also, to my ear, on idle, bank 1 has a light but distinct knock - what I suspect coming from the VVTI cover, rather than the valve cover. The car has just passed 200k miles, with 100k timing service done (allegedly) by the Lexus dealer. Any takes?
Thats interesting. I have had a couple of actuators fail and rattle. If the cam isnt moving there may be a chance its causing your issue. Its due for a belt anyway so good time to flick cams out and inspect everything. Good luck. Let me know how you get on. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ I suspect the O2 upstream (air/fuel ratio) sensor on that bank (1) might be going bad - I mean giving false reading to the ECU. From freeze frame data I've found that at the event of the misfire on bank 1 the long term fuel trim was -14.1, and on bank 2 near 0. I suspect this is telling the ECU to go super lean (for some strange reason) - which might explain hitting the misfire threshold. I think I'll change the O2 first and see what happens. If this turns out to be true, I'm hoping this condition (too lean) didn't cause too much damage, as I've been probably driving for quite a long time (20-30 k miles) until recently (when I saw the CEL). Definitely will let you know here. Cheers!
@@robertzmijan4002 cool. Remember that a misfire reads lean on o2. Im interested to hear your result
Hi, I would love some input if you've got the time.
I just did a timing belt service at 225k. I used your videos to help guide me through this. I decided I would replace the timing belt, both cam sensors, the VVTi sensor, crank seal, cam seals, and water pump. Finally got through it all and noticed, upon start up, a clacking sound like in the customers clip from this video. I went in to attempt to close up the spider gear to fix the backlash issue causing the noise. I tried to put a bolt in the hole on the gear and there was some kind of stud looking object in the hole preventing me from cinching up the spider gear. I then tried using a C clamp to close up the gap with no success. I cranked it again and found even louder clacking noises. I found out the oil control solenoid on bank 1 was stuck. I replaced both solenoids and cranked the engine to find the original clacking noise present. I drove the car briefly to find that it drove fine until heavy throttle was applied. At full throttle, the clacking noise got increasingly loud. I also realised I forgot to ensure both the actuators were fully retarded upon install. Since I already had the engine fully assembled, I figured I could just pull the valve covers off and use the square part of the cam in the middle to very gently wrench it over to feel for the adjustment of the actuator on the cam without turning the motor over and in turn setting both of the actuators fully retarded. When I first got into the valve covers I did find that bank 2 actuator was fully retarded and bank 1 was fully advanced. So after that adjustment, I started the car and noticed no clacking noise, i took it for slow drive until it was warmed up. I then gave it wide open throttle and found the engine lacking power and once I let off the throttle, the computer threw the same 3 codes it's had since the start. I don't remember the 3rd one but one is P1346 and the next is P1351. 2 of the codes read as bank 1 and bank 2 cam position sensor and the last one reads as VVTi control circuit performance/range. Any ideas? Maybe something else to check? It seems like the car runs flawlessly and quiet on a gentle ride. The issue is at WOT. I've had my suspicions that the actuators are not advancing timing correctly. But I'm not sure why.
I would be double or triple checking the cam timing. ,then checking sensor signals back to the ecu. Maybe a compression test would be a good idea too.
@@CartuneNZ thank you so much for your quick response. Starting on that now
@@heathersimerly2824 did you end up solving this issue?
Mr. Kelvin, I have a GS430 3UZ burning oil and smoking out the exhaust. Are cam seals my issue?
No - The oil leaking from a cam seal can not get into the exhaust. Keep looking , cheers Kelvin
I know kelvin says it can’t happen. Usually I’d agree, but I actually did have one leaking tremendously out the front cam/vvti gear and valve cover, it was slinging oil everywhere and pooling up, and was leaking down exhaust and filling up where the header or donut gaskets leaked. I know a very rare chance but once I fixed oil leaks let it run for a few hours and burn all the oil out exhaust never had issue again
Sooooo thankful my car is a gen 1, series 1, WITHOUT VVTi! So what if I'm down 50 hp? If I wanted to, it would be easy enough to make that up with some mods.
I prefer the 3uz and there are lots of videos coming on them soon. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ See, that's the difference between us. You're a seasoned pro, while I'm quite a moron who just does some DIY. Hahahahaha. I need things as idiot-proof as can be!
How the hell did u get that front cam sprocket back together with that spring. Rebuilding one now 🤦🏾♂️
I just know how to do it when I'm doing it.
Man, This is incredibly helpful. I am about to change the timing belt/ water pump/ valve cover seals on my 3uz (2002 Lexus SC430 110K Miles) Watching your vid's makes me way more confident. I do however have a couple of questions. 1. Since Im not a pro like you that can "Feel" the proper torque settings, do you have a recommendation on where I can find the proper torque settings for my 3uz? Including taking out the cams, valve cover gasket bolts etc? I really want to be able to sleep at night knowing nothing is too loose or too tight. And 2. The "O-Ring" on the VVTi. you said it was 2.5mm what is the diameter? Thanks for these vids! you rock! Andrew (Orlando FL, USA)
Hello Andrew. I also got your email. For the o-ring I sent my helper with a sample to see the very attractive parts girl and she matched up a suitable o-ring and we never took a measurement sorry. If you find a FSM the torque settings are in there. Some of the early settings work but cam nuts of 3uz are different. I'm starting to put some of that info onto my facebook page via my google drive however haven't done 3uz torque settings yet. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ Thank you Kelvin. you are a boss! Much appreciated.
Do you need to remove the camshafts to replace the front and back cam seals on a non vvti 1uzfe?
On the non vvti engines cam seals can be changed with the camshafts in place. As should in my non vvti cambelt videos
@@CartuneNZ Thank you so much!!! This channel is amazing 👍
How hard would it be to remove a 1uz from a 98 Lexus GS400 and install it in a 67 Chevy pickup? Not needing the gauges. Just run and drive.
Just another conversion really , like any other. How hard comes done to how much knowledge you have , your ability and the time you have available. Cheers Kelvin
Any advice for a tight cam thrust bearing clearance?
Like any engine measure thrust and get within spec is how I do it
Hey Kelvin,
Doing my cam seals for the first time and wanted to ask if the 6mm "service bolt" is something I need to purchase? If so, do you happen to know the exact size/ specs of that bolt so I can pick one up?
Thanks in advance.
Its just a 6 x 1mm bolt around 16mm long. Cheers
How do I get scissor gears back in place when unlocked first?
Pop into vise and rotate with some big pliers. I show it in this video. th-cam.com/video/yXm_-BlD4j8/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic video.thank you.
Thanks for the compliment. Cheers Kelvin
Another great vid Kelvin. My 1UZ series one is super quiet when cold and if you listen closely after start up with bonnet open. Once it gets close to operating temp it almost suddenly commences a 'rattling sounds', Its not real loud, but I can notice it above other noises like injectors. After recently checking all valve clearances and completing a compression test (Everything in spec). I was looking on Lexus forum and found out people were having issues with the scissor gear 'Wave washer' and that sounds like what my noise could be. Interested to hear if you have ever replaced these before ?
Hello Bob. I have never replaced a wave washer. Most of the 1uz's I work on (which is just a couple as you can see) are quiet. I have a video specific to scissor gears on my list for a later video. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ Ok thanks Kelvin. I might give it some more time to figure out. I would bring it to you in a heart beat but have a slight issue of being on the other side of the Pond.
Thanks so much for your videos Kelvin. This one is very helpful as I'm about to change cam seals on my 1UZ. I also like the one about how to hook up the CEL. Question - if all it takes for the "part you should never open" is a new o-ring why do you think Toyota doesn't just sell the part so that people can rebuild these?
Hello. It seems crazy not to sell the o-ring. Same goes with other similar vvti vehicles like altezza and Jz stuff. Chances are Toyota purchases the actuators complete from their suppliers. Seems like a stuff up to me
Any vids. How to install a Kelford cams? Lets say 207's
Might get to fitting cams one day. Don't have it yet. Cheers Kelvin
Hello sir, my mechanics replaced both cam seals and crankshaft seal. They put everything back together without checking the VVTI seals and found out one of the gears is leaking oil. Is there a way to just removing the front of the cam gear? Or do the valve cover and cam shafts have to be removed entirely? Please, help me good man.
Thank you sir.
I never do it without removing cams but ill look into it next time I pull one apart
Hi, Kelvin, thank you so much for the whole series of fantastic videos. I'm just due a timing job on my 3uz fe VVTI at 200k miles, and thought It would be a good opportunity to change those vvti seals. My question is: in order to take the intake cams out safely, do you line up and lock the crank/cams sharp at TDC, or 50 deg. ATDC? Question 2 - It's clear how to lock the scissor gears, but what's the best way to lock the entire exhaust cam in place, so it doesn't move during the removal of the intake one? Q3 - Are there any timing marks that allow to (double)check the correctness of the exhaust cam timing ?
Hello. I generally use the TDC marks and don't have any issues with them flicking around. The T (timing marks are there if you want) , However I always confirm timing on the correct marks once finished. There are dots on the back of the cam scissor gears to confirm their alignment as well. Again I don't worry about the exhaust gear moving as I align on reassembly. Hope that helps. This might help too. th-cam.com/video/cl35CcdhS_I/w-d-xo.html Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ All clear now, many thanks Kelvin!
Hi Kelvin, It's been a while and finally I've got some time to do the timing belt and the VVTi seals on my 3UZ (2004 LS430). I find a lot of confusing information (other YT channels and forums) as to the dots setting on the back of the cam gears. Some people say the 3UZ RH cams should be dot-to-dot, and the LH should be set at double_dot-to-double_dot. I gather
from the "Mike’s V8 Garage" on YT, he set his 3UZ cams on dot-to-dot for both (RH and LH) and bent cyl 3 valves (LH bank)... I'm afraid of making a devastating and costly mistake. Can you confirm what the correct setting for both banks on the 2004 LS430 VVTi 3UZ should be?
Apparently single dot-to-dot on both banks is the correct way. I phoned my local Lexus dealership, and they've sent me the camshaft reinstall chapter from their Workshop Service Manual. According to the WSM, you should first turn the crank pulley and have its notch aligned with the idler screw, i.e. the pulley bolt, the timing notch, and the idler screw should be on a straight line. I assume this crank position sets the pistons low enough to avoid interference? The RH cams should be set at the 10deg offset after installing. Following the WSM:
Install the RH camshafts.
(1) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the intake
and exhaust camshafts.
(2) Align the timing marks (1 dot mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven main gears, and place the intake
and exhaust camshafts.
(3) Set the timing mark (1 dot mark) of the camshaft
drive and driven main gears at approx. 10 ̊ angle.
As for the LH cams the manual describes the procedure similarly but using double-dot marks instead, however without setting the 10deg offset. The problem is, if I assemble the LH cams on the double dots, I'll get them 180deg out of phase to start with.
Now, in what order and in which direction do I rotate the LH intake cam, the RH intake cam, and the crank so I'm safely back to TDC marks everywhere, and I don't end-up causing damage to the engine? Unfortunately, the piece of the WSM they've sent me doesn't cover how to do that, and I do not want to risk taking chances.
@@robertzmijan4002 Did you ever figure out how to do the LH cam properly? In order to align them so that the service bolt is accessible, the two double-dots must line up. Which directions did you turn the cam to do this both when removing and reassembling?
Hey brother! I’m state side but I’ve just don’t cam seals and TB but could use some advice after the fact. Is there any way I could reach you to pick your brain a bit?
I have emails in credits and video description. Please be mindful of my time. Cheers Kelvin
How do you set the scissor gears properly I have the same exact issue
Best way is to lock them up before pulling apart. If you didnt do that then putting into the vice and rotating the scissors is necessary. I have a video coming next year. Cheers Kelvin
CartuneNZ shit I didn’t lock them up I only locked the passenger side I couldn’t see the service bolt hole for the driver side
CartuneNZ can I drive on it for a couple weeks to school and back because I won’t have time until winter break
@@dannydanyal215 Hello Danny. I wouldn't recommend driving it if there is an issue. Things could get worse. Cheers Kelvin.
CartuneNZ I can’t adjust them by taking the valve covers off?
Thanks again for such amazing videos and for sharing your crazy deep knowledge of the 1uz and 3uz engines. I am so grateful.
I Just did a timing belt/ water pump, and valve cover gasket job with seals on my 2003 Toyota Tundra 5vz. It went really well, so I have more confidence in doing the next car. Except for ht fact that the other car, 3uz is an interference engine unlike the 5vz.
I have watched this video and your timing belt video at least half-dozen times before I go dig into my 3uz (2002 SC430) I have a couple more questions.
1. I'm really concerned about taking out the cams when I replace the seals. I am afraid of the cams being under tension once I take off the timing belt, and then springing over and damaging the valves or piston heads. How to you keep this from happening? Remove spark plugs?
2. The 6mm bolt that goes into the back of the exhaust cam gear. It seems as though the left and right side bolts need to be installed before removing the timing belt, and removed after the new belt is re-installed. accessing them by turning the crank so that both cams and crank turn together. Is this correct? again, I am really afraid of turning the cams, either installing or uninstalling that bolt without cams and crank turning together.
3. In one of the service manuals I found, It says to move the timing marks on the cams to the "T" position before removing the timing belt. saying, this will keep the cams from springing over. however, I have not seen you use those marks in any of your videos. What is the "T" position for?
Thanks
Andrew
Hello Andrew. Well done on doing the 5vz. I did another video on the front marks which might help too. I think I explain the T as it does cause confusion. The little 6mm is best installed while the belt is still fitted. Engine can be turned over with them in no issue. The T marks are to take the tension off the cams. Taking spark plugs out is a good idea when doing cambelt to make rotating engine easier. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ @
This was the other video I watched a few times. but I didn't notice any explanation of the "T" marks. just noticed you didn't use them. Is there another video explaining that? or reason why you don't?
Try this one th-cam.com/video/cl35CcdhS_I/w-d-xo.html I'm pretty sure I touched on the T marks. I have a couple more 3uz engine to do timing belts on coming up. One has only done 60000kms so cams will be staying in place but second one might get cam seals. I rarely bother with the T marks as I have my way which works well and I never have issues. Cheers
Ill make sure that I go over the T marks in the future for you. Cheers
Привет тебе из России 👋👍 спасибо за видео👍👍👍
I've never seen sealant like that before.
I used two different ones but I suspect you mean the Wurth Grey in a can I used on the front cam cap. It's a great product and I happily use it in place of the factory threebond. Cheers Kelvin
Hi mate can you please help me, I did my cam seal all works good but now i have tappet nose lifters ticking , do you know way and how to get that fixed Thanks love your video they do help out a lot
i just realized that its scissor gears that you talked about at the start of the video i haven't locked my ones , how would I return them back in to the position ? is that as easy as just aligning the bolt hole or is it more complex , thanks
a little bit into this video I show the scissor gears. Cheers th-cam.com/video/T4nyEHfXPxs/w-d-xo.html
@@CartuneNZ Thanks mate got it all fixed she sounding good again if wasn't for you videos Id be in a lot of trouble, Cheers
Thanks for so much for you video. I
I need ex 1 coneccting rod 1uz
I have a few second hand rods here.
How much ?
$50nzd for one, plus postage
@@CartuneNZ $ ??? Aus ?
Im looking to buy the wiring instructions but u never respond to my emails
Hello Hisham. Sorry I might have missed yours. Swapped providers lately and get around 50 each day. Flick me another and Ill confirm I have received it on here. Cheers Kelvin
@@CartuneNZ its ok, i got a reply earlier. Thanks
Thing sounded like a truck lol
Sure does. Cheers Kelvin
Automatic gera
Manual on this truck
2uzgerabox
this is 4x4 and manual
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