Replace Deck Boards and How To Straighten Bent Wood Planks To Reduce Decking Gap Space
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show how to replace old wood decking with new pressure treated lumber planks. I also show how to minimize any gaps between deck boards by prying the lumber into a tight fitting position. The process is pretty straight forward. The old deck boards have to be removed, in this case I removed a few at a time while adding the new deck planks in order to have a platform to work from. The new PT wood deck boards were secured to the deck framing using stainless steel construction screws and two screws were added to the deck board of every stringer board holding it up.
Make sure to watch the other deck rebuild videos in this video series:
Video 1: To Rebuild or Replace, Initial Deck preparations • Should I Rebuild or Re...
Video 2: Install Deck Railing Post = • How to Install Deck Ra...
Video 4: Wood Rot Repair = • How to Repair a Hole F...
Video 5: Deck Rail Cap and Corner Joint = • How To Make a Strong C...
Video 6: Cable Railing Install (Vid 1) = • How to Install Cable R...
Video 7: Installing Cable Railing (Vid 2) = • Installing Outdoor Cab...
Natural wood lumber is not always perfectly straight and this means it can leave gaps between decking boards. This is ok to some degree, but to get the gaps between deck boards as tight as possible I show a trick how to pry the bent planks into a tight fitting position. The key is to find something to create a fulcrum point, or something to use to apply a pry force. If nothing is available a temporary pry board block can be added. A piece of old decking can then be used as a pry bar to push off the block and force the deck board into position.
#deckbuild #woodwork #DIY
I bet the homeowner was thrilled with how nice it turned out! Well done! 😀👍
Thank you J, replacing the deck made a big difference that is for sure.
@MrKristel~ Your deck is similar to deck rebuild project I'm going to do this spring. The sub-structural portion of our deck is solid, but the pressure treated lumber on deck surface needs to be replaced. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but we live in the heart of the midwest where we get a lot of snow & ice and the deck goes through tremendous temperature changes throughout the course of the year... (winter -30 degree to summers over 100 with 95% humidity). Our current deck was here when we bought the house and it is not large (12' x12' max). It was constructed with a staggered board pattern and the face fastened screws. Because of the weather extremes, all the "butt joints" within the staggered decking surface have caused upheaval and rotting of the boards at those joints and even at the face fastened screw holes. Since the deck is not excessively big, I am planning on using full length boards to "re-deck" the top, after applying Butyl Joist Tape to all the joists to create a waterproof membrane and then Edge Fasten the screws using a deck jig (ex: Camo Marksman Pro or Kreg Deck Jig) to provide the boards a stronger hold to the joists. It's my belief that our current deck boards were installed with virtually NO gapping between boards which also contributed to the current rot issues we are having on the surface. I am going to let the boards acclimate outside for a full week on the deck surface and allow them to fully dry again, before I go about the task of edge fastening them down with approximately 3/16" gap between boards. My HOPE is that all these combined steps will allow the deck proper air circulation, to effectively dry after rain/ice/snow and prevent premature rot. Hopefully it will give us additional years of surface integrity! Any feedback on my plan would be appreciated! ~~Christy~~
Sounds like a big project and that you have definitely put some thought into it. Not sure I have any advice but I appreciate your comment. Best of luck.
My pt deck boards have been sitting outside for a couple weeks, so I'm thinking the top boards in the stack are dryer, and some are still wet in the middle of the stack. I notice the dryer ones tend to look more golden, while the wet ones loom more white. How do you recommend determining the Gap spacing for this?
when possible, it is ideal to have all deck boards at the same moisture percentage. If you only have a few dry boards, I would. The really wet boards will dry and leave considerable spacing so i usually but those together. For the drier boards maybe leave a small gap when decking and hopefully it evens out over time.
I have a 20x16 deck joists made and going to lay the deck planks tomorrow. What’s a good day to stagger, I have 16ft long deck planks. Should I do 16, then cut 8, then go from there ??
Sounds like a fun DIY deck project. You could stagger the deck boards as you see fit. I think the 8' and 16' could be a good approach or you could throw in few more cut lengths in there to make it a more random appearance.
@@MrKistel so what do you think will be better, 4ft, 8ft 16ft ?
Interesting, you are pulling the boards together tight. Many building codes require 1/8" gap.
This is recently treated pressure treated lumber. When the deck was being built the would was wet and swollen. It has shrunk considerably since then leaving gaps at the seams that were tight when installed.
As of 2021, pressure treated boards should always be touching when installed. They will shrink A LOT after they dry.