Replace Rotten Deck Boards Yourself!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Rather than calling a contractor and spending a lot of money, I can show you how to replace rotten deck boards yourself and repair your deck. Rotten deck boards are dangerous and pose a significant safety hazard while using your deck. If your deck boards are rotted, they should be replaced with structurally sound lumber to keep you and your guests safe. This is a great do it yourself project that only requires a minimal tool list, and can be done with only hand tools. Replace those rotted deck boards today and enjoy your deck!
Tools I use in my shop (some link may be affiliate links):
TABLESAW: Porter Cable PCB-270TS
MITER SAW: DeWalt DWS779S amzn.to/2K7Su5x
PLANER: Porter Cable PC-305TP amzn.to/2WoHT8j
DUST COLLECTOR: JET DC-650 amzn.to/2I4tOZA
BISCUIT JOINER: Porter Cable 557 Plate Joiner amzn.to/2IrCiJj
ROUTERS: Bosch 1617EVSPK 2.25hp amzn.to/2WwGCkb
Craftsman Fixed-Base 2hp Router
Craftsman Fixed-Base 1hp Router
CORDLESS DRILL and Driver: BOSTITCH BTCK410L2 18V Lithium 2-Tool Combo Kit amzn.to/2XAytaU
WELDER: Hobart 500559 Handler 140 MIG Welder amzn.to/2WrCLAe
GRINDER: DELTA GR150 6-Inch Bench Grinder with Lamp amzn.to/2WWA4Lc
HANDHELD ANGLE GRINDER: Ryobi AG402 4 1/2"
SCROLL SAW: Delta Scroll Saw- 16" Variable Speed- Model 40-540
RADIAL ARM SAW: Craftsman 10"
JOINTER: Craftsman 6-1/8" Jointer/Planer, Model#113.12163
DRILL PRESS: Delta DP-350 Benchtop
CIRCULAR SAW: SKIL 7-1/4" Circular Saw
BELT & DISK SANDER: Central Machinery 6" disc
BELT SANDER: Central Machinery® 4 in. x 36 in. Belt/6 in. Disc Sander
Nail Remover: amzn.to/2XxSmzq
Multi-Tool: amzn.to/2Xu3TQl
Dennis Coffey
Replace Rotten Deck Boards
What a time we live in where if you didn't have a dad to teach you these things you can just find one on TH-cam lol
LOL! Thanks for watching, son! :)
Seriously thanks TH-cam ! 😂
TH-cam IS my dad.
@dwcoffey I really appreciate this. I'm a single woman trying to do it myself, this is amazing.
Yep, you name it. Car issues, product repair issues, general knowledge issues. You are only one rainy day away from a year of experience in almost anything!
Thanks so much😊
Thank you for watching!
This made me feel like I might actually be able to fix my own deck.
I'm sure you will do a great job! Thank you for watching, Sandra!
Liked and Subscribed cause good people like you make us not pay a contractor or a handyman $400 per board!
Yes sir! Thanks for watching!
Having just stepped through my back deck, to almost my hip…..I am replacing my small pool deck. I purchased a Cresent Bar. It is awesome!! I am a 64 year old widow , and it is the bomb!!! Thanks for the info.
That's great, Debi! I'm sure you're doing a great job. Thanks for watching!
What a brilliant and helpful video! You addressed all my concerns about doing this by myself and added some expert tips. Thanks so much Dennis. So appreciate it!
Thank you so much Brenda! I appreciate you watching and I'm glad this helps!
I am 69 and have ever done any carpentry work but need to replace rotten deck boards. Your video is AWESOME! It gave me exactly the instructions I need to go ahead ad tackle this project! Thank you So very much for posting this video! Many Blessings!💫💯👋👍
I'm glad this was helpful! Thank you for watching!
Hello, I see the video is a yr old I'm just tuning in because I need deck boards replaced and the estimates I got was crazy. How did you make out and what would you suggest? Thank you
Great video! One helpful tip on installing bark side down is make sure the end of your board is “smiling”. The deck should be all smiles at then end. Heres a Little helpful jingle i was taught lol.
“If the board is making a smile, then its bark side down. If they are making a frown then flip it around”.
Thanks for sharing and for watching, James!
@jamesgaines6468... I'm installing more joists on my deck now and replacing rotted deck boards that I fell through, not 1, not 2 but 3 times. No injuries, thank God. About 2½ feet high. The original owners didn't have joists of the octogon shape center of deck 12" - 16" on center. It's not a hard job but tedious especially in 85°F+. But grandma is Getting It Done slowly and safely.
I always thought deck boards faced the other way ☹️ frowning, so water would run down. Learn something new every day. I haven't secured my deck boards yet, so I can flip them over.
@@jamesgaines6468 what about when their opposites on either end. I put some boards down today where their smiling on one end but frowning on the other 🤷♂️
Cool video, it would be quicker to use a cats paw to pry out the nails or if you could whack the boards upward from underneath and then back down from the top to expose the nails enough to use a pry bar or hammer claw. But if you're not in a rush, doesn't really matter how you get it done, just get err done! I'm an old hand banging (no nail guns), hand truss setting (no cranes), rough framer who helped build the Villages in central FL.
Great point. Thanks Bryan, I appreciate you watching!
You've explained and documented this process so well. I've done minimal carpentry in my life, but I feel ready to tackle this. Cheers!
That's great, I'm sure you will do a great job! Thanks for watching, Andrew!
Thank you, Dennis, for taking the time to explain this, thoroughly. I assumed my whole deck needed replaced but nope just a few boards. You're so awesome. I'm going to try this next week. ❤️ #newsubscriber
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Thanks a bunch, Dennis! Great tips that I didn’t know. Appreciate the kind sharing of your know-how before i embark on my deck repair.🔨👍🏼
I hope this helps! Thank you for watching!
Thanks Dennis, I am not much of a carpenter but you taught me a few things I didn't know.
Thanks John! I appreciate you watching!
Fantastic video! Sincerely you pointed out a few things I would not have considered (I am not a construction professional) myself. I have to replace 995 sq. ft. of decking and I have tons of boards that have wroughted through in several places, even in upper decks.
Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad this helped!
Thanks for sharing this video. I was looking at one of those stand up deck pry bars. I am pretty upset that after 5 yrs my deck needs to be replaced. It is 100x40 and I used "pressure treated" YELLA WOOD and it sucks. Going to be an expensive proposition
Those stand up bars give you a lot better leverage. That's a BIG deck! If you have to replace all the deck boards, anything to make it easier will be a blessing! Thank you for watching.
thanks. very useful. did you pressure wash just the boards you replaced? how long did you wait before you sealed? should the deck be painted to make it last longer?
Thanks for watching, Luisa! After I got all the boards replaced, I let them sit for about 2 weeks, then pressure washed them (don't use too much pressure or it will make the boards 'fuzzy'). Once they are all good and dry, I seal them with Cabot's or Thompson's. I don't paint mine because I like the more natural, sealed look.
Excellent tutorial Dennis! I have a cedar deck. The top layers are deteriorating but bottoms are in great condition. I'm thinking about power washing the top boards and flipping them. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ty!
Thanks for watching, Dan! If the top surface of the deck boards are not solid, but the bottom surfaces are....I'd still recommend replacing the boards because the boards are already compromised. They won't carry the weight they're designed to carry and will continue to rot.....my 2 cents. The bottom surfaces will also have marks where they rest on the joists beneath them, so if they are flipped over, they will not be pretty. Thanks again!
Kind of helpful but I think my deck has screws! So all of those hafto be taken out first! I'm thinking I need at least 5-6! To replace! My deck has a ramp for wheelchair!
Thank you for watching, Patty! Yes, if your deck has screws, it's easier to back them out first. Otherwise, process is similar. (I have a cousin whose name is Patty Petty 😀 )
The other question I had was is there a way to remove only half of a rotten deck board without ruining the good part? For example, I have a 16 foot board that is mostly perfect but has about a 1-2 foot long area near one end that is rotten as hell. I was thinking I could replace an 8-foot section and only use half of one of my new boards, as I have another 16' board on the deck with a similar problem. Is this possible, or will I just wreck the existing board anyway in attempting to save half of it?
Hey John, Yes, you can cut out only the bad part and replace it. You'll want to cut the deck board along the centerline of the joist under it. An oscillating tool is ideal for this job. Be careful to avoid cutting into your joist. That will give you half the width of the joist to attach your new piece to, just like an end-to-end joint when laying all new deck boards. Let me know if I can help. Thanks for watching!
Don't hold the nail with your fingers touching the boards, hold the nail up at the head. If you miss the nail head, the hammer will push your fingers away and will not crush them against the board.
Thanks! and thank you for watching!
1:23 min into the video, I agree, simple math, two 8 ft makes a 16ft. But, those joints on the joice, those are the places the wood start to rot, isn't it better to use longer boards?
Yes, it's always better to use the longest boards possible so as to eliminate as many end-to-end joints as possible. Great point! Thanks for watching!
I used a jig saw to trim away the rotten boards . Mine are screwed into the supports and I cannot unscrew them so I used a saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the screws level with the support boars. kt
Great idea! Thanks for watching, Kathy!
Thank you so much for your video. Love all your tips I learned so much from it. I'm now going to tackle replacing rotten boards on my deck.
I'm glad this will be helpful! Thank you so much for watching and commenting, Julia!!
You got the mustache that holler's... "ask him!" Here it goes... My daughter and I ripped out & are replacing the floor in the horse trailer, (new 2z12's). I laid the boards appropriatly, (on pallets to keep them just above my old dirt driveway (dust suppressor when done :)) and applied one coat (hot day done by 1pm) of my dirty cummins motor oil and diesel mixture, (50/50) on every one side of each board, intending 3 coats. Three nights later it spontaneously rained/hailed like a cow doing everything on a flat rock. They got real wet. The top boards have bowed one way or another. Am I too late (this question/post is the day after)? A lot of people coat 1 and done. I thought I was going to be an over achiever... Daddy would be proud. I'd ask him what to do and he'd tell me but, he's gone. I'd really appreciate your opinion if you please. Thank you very much with a Hale Mary
Thanks for watching! Yes, it might be too late for them. You won't be able to get them straight again. If they are bowed in such a way that bolting them down in the trailer will hold them flat, and you can get them flat long enough to bolt them down, they'll be ok. But nothing you can do will flatten them back out while at rest.
Well presented easy to watch and listen to. Lots of people know how to do stuff. Not everybody is watchable, lol. That's a like and a subscription.
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate your comment and thanks for watching!
Dennis Coffey, like the drink but spelled different. (Green mile)
That's right! Thanks for watching, Jeanie!
Such a great Tip: blunt the nail first, to reduce risk of it splitting the wood. Did not know that!
Thank you for this video. I never knew the trick about sharp nails splitting wood.
Thank you for watching, Jeanie!!
Good Information and Thanks for explaining the "bark-side" wood installation method.
Thank you for watching, Derrick!
Thanks, Dennis. Very helpful advice. I have only a few boards to replace on an otherwise solid deck. This is exactly what I was looking for to make sure I am taking the right approach. The only thing I have heard that is different is that some people use deck screws instead of nails as they tend to hold the boards in place better and are less likely to pop up over time and hurt somebody who happens to be walking barefoot on the deck. Any drawbacks related to screws instead of nails that I should know?
Hey John, sorry for the delay in responding, day job has had me jumping. Deck screws are almost always better than nails. They hold better and are usually coated to withstand environmental concerns better. I used nails only because my deck was originally built with nails and I was only replacing a few boards. I chose to go back with nails now, but when I rebuild the whole deck, I will use screws.
How do you remove the deck board that's under the thresh hold of a door?
It depends on how your threshold is installed, type of door, etc. You may have to take the door casing out, or just the threshold. Thanks for watching.
Thank your Dennis for this video,I"m getting ready to replace a few boards. I"m confused on the width, I measured W and it's 5 1/2, it comes in 5in and 6. ?
Thanks for watching, Cheryl! The lumber listed as 6" lumber will actually measure 5-1/2" wide, so should be what you need.
@@dwcoffey Thank you so much.
Great video! Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you very much for watching!
Very good video Dennis, informative and to the point. I always learn something from you!👍🏻✌🏻️
Thank you very much Alan!! I really appreciate it and thanks for watching!
What kind of saw was that? It look like it had a dewalt 🔋on it?
Thanks for watching, Harbert! Its an old Ryobi cordless.
Thanks so much I appreciate you.
Thank you for watching, Linda!!
Thank you so much for this video. You explained everything so well. I can't wait to fix my deck
I'm glad this helps! Thank you so much for watching!
Doing this right now but about 10 boards. The biggest pain in the butt is getting old screws out. They’re either stripped already or strip right away with the driver. Waiting on a speedout, screw removal to make it go faster. Spending too much time with vice grips trying to get them out.
Thanks for watching! If you have a sawzall, you can cut the boards, leaving the ends with screws, then cut the screws from underneath. Stripped screws are the worst!
@@dwcoffey The speedout style, screw remover I got doesn’t work worth a damn. I’ve ended up using a larger bit to drill away wood around the screw and then get the drill chuck on the screw itself, to reverse them out.
That's a great idea! Sure beats and easy-out or using vice grips. I hope all them aren't stripped.
@@dwcoffey most of them have been so far. It’s a pretty old deck.
Thank you! Great info.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
I’ve got a brand new deck on the house I just purchased. There is a board that lifted up at the end and the nails have pulled away from the joist. I called the contractor that built it and he thinks the deck board shrunk and pulled the nails away from the joist. There is a big gap now. I was gonna try to replace the board. I’m in humid Georgia and I’m wondering if that’s what the problem was. Any tips?
Thank you for watching, Nate! Most pressure treated lumber is still wet when it is installed, so this will happen. As the wood dries, it may change shape considerably, causing nails or screws to pull out. When I replaced these boards on my deck, I nailed them down because I plant to rebuild the whole deck soon. When I rebuild it, I'll use screws. You could also do that when you replace your curling board. Cut it for a tight fit, then use screws to install it.
@@dwcoffey Thanks for the tip! I already installed and nailed it in using grip right deck nails, but I will also pop a screw in on each end just to be safe. Thanks again!
Those grip right nails might do the trick. They are good nails. Glad you got it fixed up!
I've done a lot of DIY projects..I'm all for saving money. ..but never done anything that requires cutting wood. The few times I needed wood cut I had the guys at Lowes do it for me. But this video gave me the confidence to replace my two rotten deck boards myself. Just ordered me a saw on Amazon...Thank you!
I'm sure you'll do a great job! Thanks for watching, Tanisha!
Hi how did your repair turn out? I see I need to cut to the chase and get to work because these contractors are crazy with their pricing.
Great video. Did anyone else notice that his chin looked like it has a face on it.?
Thanks for watching! Now I gotta go back and see if I can find that! LOL!
🙋🏽♀️🙋🏽♀️🙋🏽♀️🙋🏽♀️
No
Hello. I like your video. I learned a few things already. My question is would you recommend painting both sides of the wood or just one side to make it last longer?
Thanks for watching, Jorge! I don't paint my deck boards, I just seal them. My experience with painting is that it requires so much maintenance. Seems like it starts peeling after a year and then the cycle of sanding and repainting never ends. So I just seal my deck once a year. If you are going to paint....both sides will definitely protect the wood better than painting one side. Same for sealing.
Great inspiration and information sir.! Thank you. Thanks for the recommendation too, if I needed to see a professional also if the deck has termite damage,etc., I’m now your fan, South San Francisco resident here.
Thank you Larry!! I appreciate you watching!
Thanks! Very well done and helpful (and I like those Chuck Taylor Converse ;^)
Thanks for watching! Yea, I like my Converse....been wearing those things since I was a teenager (well, not the same pair - LOL!) Thank you!!
this guy is a fantastic teacher. Straight to the core information and key information without all that ego backstory and I am a person that deserves your attention please send me products to endorse wet blanket to cozy up too. really refreshing, dont know if you even care about jt but you deserve a like share and subscribe brothaj
I definitely care and I sincerely thank you Todd! I appreciate the comment, the share, and the subscription. Thanks for watching!
Hello, thank you for the video. I am a carpenter in the Philly area, just wanted to look over a quick tutorial only to replace two boards , nothing crazy, but your video explains everything spot on, and to the point! Thanks man, I would have forgotten the pry bar
I'm glad this helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. Wish I watched this a year ago. Especially in regards to the measurement of the boards. Didn't realize this until after I purchased and got the 1 inch when it should have been 5/4. I had to get the 16 foot boards delivered because of lack of a truck/trailer. However, after working realized I will need more wood but should be able to get by with some of the 8 ft. pieces.
I'm glad this helped! Thanks for watching!
I was in this situation, and my deck isn't that big, so I elected to replace all of the boards instead of chasing individual boards over the years, and it looks better too. I had never done it before, but it came out well. In fact, I took steps that I know a pro wouldn't have, like pre-drilling every single screw. There are no splits. I also treated the butt ends with stain before screwing it down - it rots there first.
Sounds great! Thanks for watching!
OUTSTANDING!
GREAT JOB!
Great tip on wood cupping! These so called Pro's can't explain it this well. Helping a friend, replace deck boards. 8 boards. 16' long. $89.00 delivery charge. I suggested 8'. I can pick. Save her some $$. She willing to pay.
Need a video how to install railing. Deck is on the ground. Do I notch them, or just lag screws them?
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the nice comment! Depends on how you are doing your ballusters. If all wood, then I make sure I have good solid corners (2pcs 2x4 or 2pcs 2x6) attached to the skirt with lag screws, then just nail in the ballusters. If the ballusters aren't going to be attached to the skirt, but to a lower railing, I basically do the same on the corners and go from there. For interval posts, I'd lag screw them as well. I think they are weaker if notched.
Thank you for this video. I am more confident in getting my deck repaired. How long should I wait to stain after the new deck board is installed? Thanks again!
Thank you for watching! If you used pressure treated lumber, you should wait until the wood has been out long enough to dry. Often pressure treated lumber is wet all the way thru. It usually only take a couple of weeks dry weather to get it dry enough to stain. If you used non-pressure treated wood, you can stain anytime.
Dennis Coffey Thank you very much!!
Terrific presentation, so informative and useful. I have one question - I have no rotten board to use as a starting point - how do I remove the nails from the end of the first board? There's nothing to get the claw of my hammer under as the nails are flush with the board.
Thanks for watching, Ann! If you are pulling up all the boards, I'd drive a pry bar between two of the boards, near the end of one and pry an end up. Then work from there. Or... If you can access the bottom sides of the boards from underneath the deck, you can hammer one of the ends up enough to get a pry bar or screwdriver under it. If none of that will work, you can take a jigsaw or a sawzall and cut a board to make a starting point. I hope this helps.
Thank you for this video! Im about to buy a house and everything has been upgraded or redone except for the deck that has some rotting wood.
I'm glad this will be helpful! Thanks for watching and best wishes with the new house!
Thanks for posting; very helpful. One twist for my job is that the boards run diagonally -- at a 45 degree angle. Just purchased a 10 inch sliding miter saw that should allow me to handle that aspect of it. But your video has given me the confidence to complete it.
Fantastic! Thank you for watching!
You are an excellent teacher ❤ I’m almost ready to tackle my porch. But I’m take it 12 boards at a time…. Then do my steps. Hope my joist are in good condition. Oh boy!
Thanks for watching! I am about to tackle another section on mine and I know some of the joists are shot. Not looking forward to that job actually. :)
Excellent video! Should anyone be interested, I used a hydraulic jack from the bottom side of my deck and was able to target each 5/4 board to be removed. I lifted one end, and then from the top side pried out the rest of the shoddy board. Happy Canada Day!
Great idea! Thank you for watching!
Thank you Dennis, I have to get this done on my deck because a few days ago it happened to me, I fell through one of my deck boards that was rotten. Now I have to replace many boards because the deck is not safe for us to walk on. It's a 20 x 20 deck and the foundation is ok so it's just a matter of replacing lots of deck boards, maybe all of them I don't know, I just don't want this to happen to anyone ever again. My leg was caught in the hole of the board and it took firemen with their chainsaw to free me it was quite a scene.
Thank you for watching, Diane! Oh my, that sounds like a terrible experience! I hope you weren't hurt. It's amazing how fast deck boards can rot sometimes and how they look just fine until you step on a bad one. Sure hope you are ok.
Thank you Dennis, it was a bad experience and I came out of it with no broken bones in my legs, just scratches. I'm so glad my dog Daisy barked and my husband came out and called 911. Quite the experience. Thank you! I also was wondering just for the winter would it be ok to just put some particle boards down on the deck just for this year and fix it with real boards next year. It would be easier for us to do for now because I'm afraid of going out on the deck. I noticed lots of cracks in the wood. Is plywood or particle boards good for this job for the winter?
Hi Diane, well I'm glad you didn't break anything, that's good news! Particle board or plywood's longevity over the winter will depend on how wet your climate is. Neither will hold up to water intrusion very well. Pressure treated plywood is available in some places, but it is seldom flat enough to lay down and walk on (the pressure treating process gets it wet and subsequent drying usually warps it). If you have really dry winters, like in the SW USA, you could probably get away with putting down some OSB, plywood, or something similar.
@@dwcoffey OK thanks Dennis, I guess I will forget about the plywood because our winters are long long and from March to May can be quite wet when the tons of snow starts to melt, so I guess I will have to get some 2x16 boards in, they are about $40 each here in Canada and the deck is 20x16.
I'll just count the boards that I have and get that many. Thanks for your help.
Thanks, You saved my deck repair efforts. I appreciate all your repair tips. 👍🏼. Now must figure splattered rails too. ❣️
Thanks for watching, Chacha! I'm glad this helped!
Thank you so much for this video. You explained everything very well and made it look easy👍I had one of my two dogs put his leg through just yesterday so now its time to finally deal with it. Thanks again! (:
Thank you for watching! Yes, those rotted boards can be dangerous, we had a similar situation. Glad this helped you!
Good video!! The way you explained installing with the tree center side of the board being on the bottom makes sense for keeping water from collecting on the center of the top of the board. However, the way you say "install bark side down" is opposite of what you were explaining - "bark side down" to me means putting the bark side against the joist. That causes the cupping to hold the water on the top of the board. I know, as the morons that built my deck installed the boards without caring which side was up or down and I'm getting ready to replace a half-dozen boards because of it.
Hey Thanks very much for watching and commenting! I don't recall recommending installing boards center-side up...maybe I did, just don't recall it. But I have actually always tried to put most boards bark side down. Here's a good article explaining why: www.thespruce.com/deck-board-installation-1825145 Southern Yellow Pine (which is what most deck boards are made of) tends to cup toward the bark side according to this article and a lot of other previously regarded studies, etc. ......BUT, the more modern info I now read indicates that it really doesn't matter so much. haha. Most studies now recommend installing the best side up and don't worry about center or bark side.....so, maybe I should re-make my video to indicate that. I've also experienced what you describe on your deck. Boards are installed without regard to bark side. I have some boards that have rotted and some that haven't, so I don't know, maybe the current recommendations of installing the best side up are best. Maybe no matter what we do, some of the boards are going to rot anyway. Makes me want to pony-up the cash for composite deck boards.....but I really don't like the way they look or feel.
@@dwcoffey - thanks for the long response! I also found this - and explained what I am seeing on most if not all of the deck boards I'm having to replace - "shelling" due to the boards being installed bark side down. bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/articles/do-i-lay-decking-bark-side-up-or-down/
All of the boards I'm having to replace are bark side down and the early wood has separated from the rest of the board. Huge wide splinters break loose from the rest of the top of the board, water intrudes, puddles, then rots the board. So I'm thinking that the issue is probably due to the type of wood and center or near center cut boards that were installed bark side down. FWIW, the deck is made with 2x6 lumber.
I gotcha. I would agree with what you've said...probably has as much to do with where the boards came from in the log. Oddly, I think center cuts cause more problems in this application than outer cuts do. Maybe the heart wood is too stable compared to the new wood, thus causing the difference in expansion and contraction, then causing separation. It's a shame and very frustrating to have otherwise good wood separate and require replacement. Not mention the expense of it. I hope the deck repairs go well and don't cost you too much time or money! Thanks again for watching!
I'm in decking repair and refinishing contractor. Please don't use Thompson's water seal. It's just wax. Get yourself a penetrating oil like Cabot's, penafin, superdeck... Penetrating oil. Unless you want to use semi transparent. Then you can go to Benjamin Moore or similar products. But my favorite is penetrating oil.
Thanks for watching and for the tips! I agree...I have since learned about Cabot's and it is definitely a superior product!
Thanks for this. I'll be fllowing your instructions in about 10 minutes after a cup aof javva.Your chill demeanor didn't hurt neither in this presentation sir.
I hope it all went well! Thanks for watching!
Nicely done. Well explained brother! 🙏
Thanks for watching!
To cut the board without damage to adjacent boards I have used an oscillating multitool with the saw blade to cut the board over a joist.
Good idea! Thanks for watching!
Thanks man. I got a quote for $2500 for repair, sand and stain. I just spent $350 in materials (no stain yet) and a Saturday. Great video. Cheers.
Nice! Great job. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful post. I'm going to attempt this process with a townhouse 2 floor deck🤞🌺
I'm glad this helps! Thank you for watching, Angelita!
My deck is only 1 or 2 feet off the ground and multiple boards have to be replaced in one area. I had been told I could attach another board alongside of it to help support it. What do you think? I know you mentioned a professional should be contacted but wondering if it's possible to fix it enough for a while?
Thanks for watching! If you have joists that need to be replaced, yes, you can do that. You'll have the weak area of the existing joist and you'll have a good quality joist you will scab on to the side of the weak joist. You must be sure that the area of the weak joist you attach the scab onto is strong. You can't attach to a weak area, or the scab will not really give you any added strength. Glue and nails or screws are best. Here's an article that explains how to do it: www.familyhandyman.com/floor/floor-repair/how-to-make-structural-repairs-by-sistering-floor-joists/
My deck is all screws and the heads are rusted off. I still want to use my existing floor joists but I'll be left with screws that are sticking up on the joist. I could grind them off but I'm still gonna hit them when put new boards down. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hey Michael, thanks for watching! Yea, that's a problem for sure. Here are my thoughts.....hopefully they'll help in some way. If you can pry the deck boards off and leave the shank of the screws above the surface of the joists, although tedious, you can then use a pair of vise-grips to grab the shanks and reverse the screws out of the joists. you'll have forearms like Popeye when you get done, but that'll get the screws out. If I had that same problem, I'd be more inclined to cut the screws off flush with the joist-tops and move my screw/nail locations 1/4" or so when putting down the new boards.
Really good video, I have replace a good many boards but I’ll start with one or two to see how it comes out. One thing though, my boards are on a angle
Thank you for watching, Jay! Easiest way might be to pull the old board, scribe a matching angle on the new board then cut it to fit.
Thx so much, Dennis...Very helpful video with great tips...appreciate it ....
Thank you for watching, Jitendra!
Thank you so much. You explain very well how to repair and replace the deck boards. My husband and I will be tackling this within a few days.
I hope it went well! Thanks for watching!
This video is awesome! Very clear, concise directions. I feel like I can do this easily myself now!
I'm glad this helped! I'm sure you'll do a great job, Jennifer! Thanks for watching!
Thank you!! I need to replace a few boards on my porch and I've never done that before. Thos video was very helpful. 😊
I'm really glad this is helpful to you, Cori! Thanks for watching!
I always did our boards 2x6 bark side down, I thought that would make the deck stronger. So I've been wrong? I am replacing several boards, should I continue my way or your way bark up?
Thanks for watching! I've done a little more reading about this and there are 2 opposite schools of thought. One says that decking should always be installed bark-side up. The other says it really doesn't matter. There is a lot of evidence to support the "it really doesn't matter" argument, so.......that said.....even though I still think bark side up reduces cupping, and as a result, reduces water retention on the surface, if you've been installing them the other way with good results, I wouldn't change it.
Ditto what everyone else said. Thanks for making this video. Very, very helpful.
I'm glad this was helpful! Thanks very much for watching!
Hi Dennis, got my new boards in, needed to have them all replaced, all 42 of them. Grandson will rip the old out and put in the new ones. Wish us luck! Thanks for all your tips and suggestions!
Thanks for watching, Diane! I hope the repairs go well!
So helpful! I am optimistic about taking care of some rotting boards at home. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Need demo deck tool.
Would definitely make the job easier! Thanks for watching!
Good class
Thanks for watching, Bill!
Awesome tips and techniques. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Hi again just ordered 1x6 above ground AC2 green pressure treated lumber is this good deck flooring?
Hey John, thanks for watching. If your joists are on 16" centers, 1x6 might be too thin the span the gap without sagging. I'm not sure itf it will work with closer spacing than 16". 5/4 thickness is usually the thinnest you'll see people use for decking, it is a full 1" thick. 1x6 will normally only be 3/4" thick.
Thank you for this video. It is just what I needed to see to get me going on my own deck. I will start at the end of the board though and use a cat's claw to pull the nails up. If I start in the middle of a board I may not have a joist to attach the board to. Unfortunately, when I bought my house 22 years ago it was a new deck, but they went and painted it and did not use a stain or tinted stain. So within two years, it started to peel. It may not have if they had waited a year or two until the PTL was dry. My cap railing and stairs need repair too. Great job!
Thank you so much for watching and the comment! I have the same issue, the builder painted the railings on our deck and now they are peeling terribly. I am just now beginning to tackle a rebuild on the railings and the stairs. I'm not painting any of it but will stain it then seal it. Thank you again...I hope your deck project goes well!
Sir, don't you think it would be best, to predrill holes and use a quality decking screw, to install your new deck board? Also, they have spiral deck nails that are designed to slow backing out of nails, which will occur with expansion and contraction. Lastly, removal of the boards is incredibly easier, when you want to come back and do the entire deck, if you intend on this being a temporary fix until your budget or time schedule allows you to complete the job all anew. Tip: get paraffin wax blocks. Hold the end of the screw by hand a pull the screw end across the paraffin wax block. This will make backing your screws out much easier, if you want to remove your temporary boards for future deck rebuild.
Thanks for watching! It would be...and if I was rebuilding the deck, that is exactly the way to do it. I was simply replacing some rotten boards on a deck that had been built with nails, so there was no need (in this case) to make it more complicated when I rebuild the whole deck. When that time comes, I will definitely rebuild it with all new boards and screws. thanks!
@@dwcoffey that makes sense. Thank you. 👍
Great tutorial video!!! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Claudia!
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. I need to do this work this spring 😁
I have some more to do also. Thanks for watching, Pat!
Great vid! This is exactly what i was looking for and more. Thanks Dennis.
Thank you very much, Cesar!
Thanks for the video. If a piece of the board is rotten, should I have to replace the whole board or just the rotten portion?
Thank you for watching, Chandra! I think if you are able, replacing the whole board is best. But, if it is too large, or not easily replaced, you could cut out the rotten portion and replace only that portion. It is important that both ends of the board are supported by a joist underneath though. Otherwise, the end will give way and break.
I need your help. I don't have enough money to replace my entire deck so I just to change some of the railers
Thanks for watching, Silvia! I hope this helped!
Awesome video ; thanks buddy!
God bless
Thank you for watching!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, Dennis! Getting ready to tackle this task!
Thank you for watching, Chris!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Nicholas!
thanks dennis going to start working on this probelm this summer
Thanks for watching, Dawn!
Love the old school Ryobi saw. Still works good. Great video. It was nice to watch
Thank you sir! I really appreciate it. I bought that old saw because I was broke at the time and it was cheap. It's been a good saw...no complaints and still going strong.
@@dwcoffey I bought the whole kit of those blue ryobi's when they first came out. If I smack a battery on them they still work. If you get the chance to buy the new Ryobi batteries. It turbocharges those old blue Ryobi's 👍
Thanks for that info! I still have a blue Ryobi drill, circular saw and a rotary cutter.....I'll have to give that a shot.
Thanks.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting this video. Going to save me a lot of money.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much! I'm way more confident to get started now!
That's great Dawn! I'm sure you will do well. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, I think I can do this, you made it simple to understand.
I'm sure you will do a great job!
Bout to start this on my deck. This video gives me the confidence and knowledge I need. Thanks
Thank you for watching! I'm glad it helped and I'm sure you're going to do a great job!
Great video you gave good tips and things to consider, none of the extra nonsense. Loved it.
Thanks for watching, Ernest!