Don’t agree with tight spacing if you have trees. I use 1/4 or 5/16. Gaps can be cleaned easy with a garden hose. Tight spacing requires a lot of work with a knife. Debris accumulation at the joist is the main reason that joists rot. Also surprised to see 1 inch thick deck boards
Absolutely, I agree tight spacing with trees isn’t a good idea. With shrinkage this deck is now 1/4”. Debris accumulation is a major cause of rot. I have a video on the causes of deck failure that show this in action for anyone who is interested. I appreciate your helpful tips. Thanks!
Hi Sean, that's an excellent question and important to know in your area. I've seen special heavy duty screw in ground anchors used but I don't have experience with building requirements for hurricane areas.
You can not just choose the "best side" to face up, especially with hidden screw edge fastening and no screw in the center of the board.. These boards WILL cup or crown. If you turn the boards in opposite alignment to the bark you will have some cupping concave and others crowning convex. These screws can not stop this from happening as there is no screw in the center of the board. You should install "bark side up" so that you will have crowning instead of cupping. This will allow water to naturally run off in the reveal between the boards. On very rare occasions a board will cup in the opposite direction relative to the bark. when that happens you will most likely need to replace it to look and feel correct. Also, I never use a specific spacer such as 1/8 inch. I use a variety of spacers depending upon the needed reveal. Every board is slightly different in width and can even vary along its length. installing as a constant spacer can cause a build up of tolerance at the final board. One does not want the final rip to be (example) 4.5 inches at one end and 3.75 at the other. Instead, every few boards re-measure the left, right and center of the deck to the last wall. Begin adjusting early, using just a tiny bit more reveal where necessary to assure the rip cut board will be the same width on its entire length. never allow less than 2/3 of a board width for the final rip, it will NEVER look correct and be sure that all reveals look even overall. Better to rip the first board enough to assure at least 2/3 of a board in the final ripped board when you know that this will happen. This is all basic stuff.
@@joshsmithward8848 I am sorry I only stated fact. However, if someone wants to put out a "how to" video they should be getting the facts correct or stop wasting everyone's time and energy and ruining product. It is NOT about snobbery, it is about people on the web that "think" they know something and want to share it when they are dead WRONG.
@@djea3589I hear you. There are no standards bodies or apprenticeships and titles anymore. It’s just a bottom up sponge world. It may be a little gross but that’s how it is. I agree that there should be professionalism to a how to video put out for the public, just saying to share your own expertise with an eye to making people do a less crappy job than not doing it at all. Because we will do it no matter what.
I understand folks not liking screws or nails on the top of their deck boards. I've installed well over 20 decks in my lifetime. Early on I used nice redwood, (read it as clear heart green) Beautiful wood, but it isn't available really at any price less than $15 a lineal foot, or $30 a square foot. I learned a lot though from those decks. I only use synthetics now, after ripping up old decks. I don't want to waste beautiful wood on a deck that will last 30 years or even less. I admit I live in an area that has a lot of needle drop and is fairly wet. After seeing decking and joists rot out with tight spacing, I now use 1/2" spacing! Admittedly it is a lot if it is an urban environment with women in high heals. But if in the rural area, it is the best. It sweeps MUCH better, and most needles and detritus falls thru. And the detritus build up over the joist usually just falls or blows away also. Because of the large gap, there is no way to really do it other than the special deck screws for synthetic. Comes out perfect. I expect to have them last 30 or more years. I flash the ledgers, and put tape over the joists too.
@@paulkramer4176 thanks for sharing your experience living in a rural area with lots of needle drop. Wider spacing in that case is a smart way to go. Lumber was beautiful and is. I appreciate the beauty of it too. Good to hear from you, Paul!
As a homeowner who has replaced their deck one time in 30 years I can attest to having tight spacing between the deck boards. If you have trees over your deck (and you will if you plant trees in your yard even thirty feet away from the deck) the tighter the space the less you will have to clean the gaps out. I have a Stihl battery blower and I clean the deck often and the gaps still get clogged. I will say having a battery blower will spoil you. You will be able to go anywhere around your house with no cord which is something I did for over 20 years. Pay the extra for the blower. You will be glad you did. Available at Ace Hardware.
Sounds like great advice learned through experience. I’m glad you found a tool that works for you and is satisfying to use. I appreciate your tips. Thanks
Love the tool but because we have a lot of trees and debris from overhead I choose a slightly wider spacing. If you don’t have a lot of nature around the tool spacing is great.
Great work. Nice looking build. I really enjoy seeing and learning about new gear. Things have come along way since I was kid helping my pops & grandpa out with projects. Maybe it's a sign I'm getting old? That nearly half of my youtube history & recommendations is power tools & carpentry. The other half a mix of history documentaries, how it's made, gunsmithing, & cat zoomies 🤔🤷🏼♂️🇺🇸
I've used bowrench to help with a bowed deck board. I work by myself. Very easy to use and works using framing members. No screwing decking scraps first. SAVES TIME.
Smart. I was going to do the same thing. I didn’t open the package from Amazon until the day I needed it. The handle was missing so it wasn’t useable. Lesson learned.
Bravo! It’s always impressive to see a person installing decking who doesn’t curse. I haven’t mastered that skill. Otherwise, if deck boards go a bit squirrelly and warped, hitting them with a hose and leaving them to heat up in the sun makes them far more pliable when it comes to finessing them back into straight.
Good tip David on the hose. You're right decking calls for finessing and love I hearing about new solutions to try out. Thanks for that! Hope you're enjoying your summer. I'm sure you have some projects in the works. 👍
Agreed, it is well priced! I can’t say in 5 years time. Old decks with traditional screws rust out and require pry-out or cutting. Traditional deck screws don’t always cooperate. If there was an issue I’d use a multi-tool on an angle with protection on the adjacent board.
Thanks Julie! I’m using pressure treated deck boards 5/4 x 6 in this video. Cedar is my favorite but very pricey here. I’m on a budget and I love this look! It’s my go-to for a natural look and most homeowners assume it’s cedar.
In the UK it can be hot one minute and cold and wet the next.. I’m now having to redo my deck because although treated the gaps closed up in the Winter time surface water then couldn’t drain away so by Spring time it was lifting etc.. I’m still not really sure what the best gap is to go for because debris can easily block the gaps if it’s too narrow and wide gaps just get wider in the summertime.. Tricky!
Yes, you raise a good point. The more your temperature and conditions of your weather contrast you’ll see greater differences in expansion. Also, the type of lumber and moisture content of the decking is an important consideration. Your experience will lead you to a good decision. Hello to you in the UK! 🇬🇧 I love visiting your beautiful country.
Question. What do you think is the best oil base sealer for a Washington red cedar deck? I don’t want to stain it, but I do want the grain to pop and bring out the natural red color. Thanks, Al
I don’t have an oil based stain to recommend. If anyone else does please share here in the comments. Cedar is beautiful with a natural stain, it will look lovely. Hello to you in Washington State. It’s a beautiful place!
When doing the deck from start I usually try to build it so that no ripping the nearest board to house is needed, (little math on paper or just top view drawing SketchUp). Those screw systems are easy to use and look way better then screwing through the face, but I still haven´t given up on the idea of going full medieval and building a deck with no metal fasteners for the boards just dove-tail and wedged wooden pegs...
That’s a great thing to do ahead of time so there’s no ripping. Thanks for sharing that tip. It’s a good one! Dove-tail would be next level. That’s an eye for detail!
Thanks Sam for sharing your experience with hidden fasteners. I have a link in the description for Amazon. Yes, you know it they have good deals worth checking out. Appreciate it!
Start your first board at the start of the home or structure your deck IA built off of. After you install it. Start pulling measurements from other end of the deck. So you can start squaring up your deck boards to land perfectly on it. It's alot easier and the end product comes out nice. With less work.
My contractor is suggesting that in addition to the two Camo screws, he should face screw one screw in the center of each board to every joist to prevent cupping, board pulling out one of the edge screws, etc. Your thoughts?
Sounds like your contractor is cautious which isn’t a bad thing. I also have used these as face screws on risers etc. I haven’t had issues but regionally you might experience different conditions than I do.
Have you tried hidden fasteners yet, what do you think? Have your say here or share a tip of your own! Thanks for watching. You May Also Like: 👇 What Nobody Tells You About Building Deck Stairs: th-cam.com/video/VvHZ5aPQGtY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing some good tips. As a professional I always put the boards tight together so when they dry out and shrink the gaps dont get to big. I also prefer standard screws with the larger head placed about an inch from the edges ( not hidden) for better holding power and less chance of splitting the edge of the deck board. The camo tool is something Ive never used but it seems pretty cool for the purpose you showed. If i get a customer that wanted hidden fasteners on wood Id try to talk them out of it but would do it for an extra charge ( having to buy the special tool and screws that im sure are more expensive) if they really were set on it. Good job overall!
Thanks for sharing your perspective. Where I live we can’t put our deck boards tight because our lumber isn’t wet. Our neighbours to the south can put their deck boards tight depending on what region they live. Yes, you are spot on! To your point it requires more labor so you’d have to take that into account with pricing.
Great video and I really appreciate the detailed explanations. I have a couple of questions; for a ground-level floating deck where one side will be against the house, how do you recommend attaching that last deck board since there is no access to the underneath to screw in the brackets? And, is there a recommended way in which direction to lay the deck boards - the long way or short way on the deck?
Hi Frank! For the last deck board I also face screw with the edge deck screws. Like I did in the video for the first deck board. I’ve been really happy with the look because the screws disappear and are hard to see. I usually install deck boards in the same way as in the video. Parallel to the length of the house. It elongates the deck for a nicer look. ❤️
Nice. You have the heart of a teacher. nb: With the junky big box store deck boards, I get best results installing with zero gap. They shrink a full 1/8" because they're so wet to start.
This chick is completely clueless you never put spaces in between pressure treated lumber decking you bring them up tight because against one another that because they will shrink the way she’s doing it you end up with a haft 1” space between the boards.
You install with no spacing if your wood is wet. I’m in Canada. Our wood is not wet. It has less shrinkage than US pressure treated. Spacing is based on moisture content and the amount of overhead debris/nature that will be accumulated on the deck. This deck is featured in my deck staining video. With lots of closeups on the spacing. You might get a kick out of it!
@@pearlhall3787 that’s because I didn’t show it, as you can see. You attach the other side to your joists. If that’s not possible you can always face screw your last board or install it before the two boards preceding it so you have room to install it. Thanks for the question!
Who really cares if you can see screws you gonna lose sleep because your neighbor came over said oh no look at all the screws they give it character save money stop buying fasteners
Great instructional video. Every deck i install i use the camo pro. It makes work so simple and amazing looks. Lets talk abiut the milkwauke surge. How much do you love it? I wish i bought one sooner. Such a great tool and love how quiet it is.
Great video. I like the jig you set up for straightening the boards. I used the camo screws on my floating deck about six years ago and love the look. Had a couple break but that’s to be expected. It is very time consuming though.😊
True that. It's extra time but I love the looks so much. Good to hear that it worked out for you on your floating deck! You're ahead of the curve on using the screws. A lot of people are just finding out. Thanks!👍
Great deck videos - thanks! I would like to use the bracket method for the first deck board. Do you have a recommendation for fasteners? I can’t find any galvanized screws that are short enough for a 5/4” cedar board.
Thanks Shannon! I picked the brackets up at HD they come with the screws. When using brackets try to install the ones on the corners as close to edge as you can to keep it laying flat. Good luck with your project!
Great video,@@DaruDhillon, and as much as I hate to be a smartass, please say lying flat. Only chickens "lay"....as in, eggs. The rest of us lie....as in down! As in, I'm going to lie down for awhile.....Tell the dog to lie down.....Make sure that board is lying flat on the ground. Yes, it's English, from England...where all "new" North Americans got their language AND their laws. (I say "new", because I'm not sure how a native American or a First Nations Canadian says "I think I'll go like down for a few minutes!" Cheers, and please do Google it. 🙂
I have the greatest tip for everyone never use a impact drill for installing deck boards or hidden fasteners. It’s noisy and extremely slow compared to a regular drill. But thanks for the good videos.
Thanks for sharing this tip. I have heard that some people prefer using a drill vs an impact driver. If anyone else would like to weigh in with what they like and why that would be great. Thanks for posting your thoughts!
In my experience a drill can stop at a point of resistance, while an impact driver will hunker down and keep going. This is why I used an impact driver for my entire deck construction.
Looks time consuming and expensive ... traditional exposed deck screws rule, and can be easily tightened after wood shrinks/warps.. and are easily accessable for future repair or modifications.
I use pressure treated wood. It has the highest rate of return of any deck. In the areas I work, most people assume it’s cedar. As I was hauling the lumber a neighbour said “I love the smell of Cedar”
You never said what to do with the angles after you flip the board over. How do you fasten them to the joist if the deck is 2 feet off the ground and can't access to screw them?
What's the point of using screws vs nails if you don't actually do it in a way that allows easy removal of the boards when time comes for repairs? I only use face screws for that reason. Makes it easy to access them as my cedar deck needs regular maintenance because of the humid climate we have in Onrtario.
Thanks for sharing your take on cedar. I haven’t found any issue with removing boards. I use a drill on an angle with a putty knife to protect the adjacent board. It’s good you found a system that works for you! I’m in Ontario too. ❤️👍🏽
@@DaruDhillon Removing boards after a few years (which is typically when you have the need to replace them) is a BEAR because dirt and wood fibers have filled in the screw head making it nigh impossible to engage the bit. Also typically you can't see the head properly and have to jiggle the bit around to engage by "feel". I've had some success by using an awl to clean out the hole (and the gunk in the head) but to do that successfully on 16+ screws just to remove one board is asking for a lot.
It is easy to remove the camo screws, just put your drill on an angle and pull them out, shouldn't really take more time than face screws. The camo system is overall a way better option. The drill angle of the screws prevents warping of deck boards and keeps them crowned for water drainage. The screws are also less prone to splitting wood and the finished look is a lot cleaner and more professional.
I bought the Camo system on the recommendation of another TH-cam contractor and the results are fantastic! It’s easy to use and provides strong secure fastenings. And the appearance of a deck with no exposed hardware is so clean and professional looking. I’d recommend this product to everyone.
@@brianmcconnell1817 Thanks Brian for sharing your experience. It’s really helpful when viewers weigh in with their reviews. I agree the look is amazingly clean and professional!
Don’t agree with tight spacing if you have trees. I use 1/4 or 5/16. Gaps can be cleaned easy with a garden hose. Tight spacing requires a lot of work with a knife. Debris accumulation at the joist is the main reason that joists rot. Also surprised to see 1 inch thick deck boards
Absolutely, I agree tight spacing with trees isn’t a good idea. With shrinkage this deck is now 1/4”. Debris accumulation is a major cause of rot. I have a video on the causes of deck failure that show this in action for anyone who is interested. I appreciate your helpful tips. Thanks!
Any idea how to anchor the deck to the ground in areas prone to hurricanes?
Hi Sean, that's an excellent question and important to know in your area. I've seen special heavy duty screw in ground anchors used but I don't have experience with building requirements for hurricane areas.
Simpson Strong-Tie H1A or H2.5A hurricane ties.
Old hat, been done 8 years ago.
Decks have been around for a long time. We still love them ❤️
You are simply amazing love your videos
You can not just choose the "best side" to face up, especially with hidden screw edge fastening and no screw in the center of the board.. These boards WILL cup or crown. If you turn the boards in opposite alignment to the bark you will have some cupping concave and others crowning convex. These screws can not stop this from happening as there is no screw in the center of the board. You should install "bark side up" so that you will have crowning instead of cupping. This will allow water to naturally run off in the reveal between the boards. On very rare occasions a board will cup in the opposite direction relative to the bark. when that happens you will most likely need to replace it to look and feel correct.
Also, I never use a specific spacer such as 1/8 inch. I use a variety of spacers depending upon the needed reveal. Every board is slightly different in width and can even vary along its length. installing as a constant spacer can cause a build up of tolerance at the final board. One does not want the final rip to be (example) 4.5 inches at one end and 3.75 at the other.
Instead, every few boards re-measure the left, right and center of the deck to the last wall. Begin adjusting early, using just a tiny bit more reveal where necessary to assure the rip cut board will be the same width on its entire length. never allow less than 2/3 of a board width for the final rip, it will NEVER look correct and be sure that all reveals look even overall. Better to rip the first board enough to assure at least 2/3 of a board in the final ripped board when you know that this will happen.
This is all basic stuff.
Those are some great tips, thanks, but I wouldn’t say it’s basic. Don’t be a snob.
@@joshsmithward8848 I am sorry I only stated fact. However, if someone wants to put out a "how to" video they should be getting the facts correct or stop wasting everyone's time and energy and ruining product. It is NOT about snobbery, it is about people on the web that "think" they know something and want to share it when they are dead WRONG.
@@djea3589I hear you. There are no standards bodies or apprenticeships and titles anymore. It’s just a bottom up sponge world. It may be a little gross but that’s how it is. I agree that there should be professionalism to a how to video put out for the public, just saying to share your own expertise with an eye to making people do a less crappy job than not doing it at all. Because we will do it no matter what.
Absolutely, your comment is what I was going to say. The way I was taught was to always put the bark side up
I understand folks not liking screws or nails on the top of their deck boards. I've installed well over 20 decks in my lifetime. Early on I used nice redwood, (read it as clear heart green) Beautiful wood, but it isn't available really at any price less than $15 a lineal foot, or $30 a square foot. I learned a lot though from those decks. I only use synthetics now, after ripping up old decks. I don't want to waste beautiful wood on a deck that will last 30 years or even less. I admit I live in an area that has a lot of needle drop and is fairly wet. After seeing decking and joists rot out with tight spacing, I now use 1/2" spacing! Admittedly it is a lot if it is an urban environment with women in high heals. But if in the rural area, it is the best. It sweeps MUCH better, and most needles and detritus falls thru. And the detritus build up over the joist usually just falls or blows away also. Because of the large gap, there is no way to really do it other than the special deck screws for synthetic. Comes out perfect. I expect to have them last 30 or more years. I flash the ledgers, and put tape over the joists too.
@@paulkramer4176 thanks for sharing your experience living in a rural area with lots of needle drop. Wider spacing in that case is a smart way to go. Lumber was beautiful and is. I appreciate the beauty of it too. Good to hear from you, Paul!
As a homeowner who has replaced their deck one time in 30 years I can attest to having tight spacing between the deck boards. If you have trees over your deck (and you will if you plant trees in your yard even thirty feet away from the deck) the tighter the space the less you will have to clean the gaps out. I have a Stihl battery blower and I clean the deck often and the gaps still get clogged. I will say having a battery blower will spoil you. You will be able to go anywhere around your house with no cord which is something I did for over 20 years. Pay the extra for the blower. You will be glad you did. Available at Ace Hardware.
Sounds like great advice learned through experience. I’m glad you found a tool that works for you and is satisfying to use. I appreciate your tips. Thanks
You did a great job on this video. Lovely presentation. Fun to watch. You could easily be a big time TH-camr!
Wow, thank you!
Used this for my deck years ago - worked great, but now I need to take up a couple of boards and I am having trouble getting about 2/3 of them out
Nice job, thanks for all the tips.. 👍👍👍😁😁😁💋💋💋
You are so welcome!
Use a bowrench for straightening the bowed boards.
Funny enough I ordered one for this build but the handle was missing so I couldn’t use it. Thanks for sharing your tip!
Great video & tips! Why did you use spacers when the camo tool has built-in spacers? Cheers!
Love the tool but because we have a lot of trees and debris from overhead I choose a slightly wider spacing. If you don’t have a lot of nature around the tool spacing is great.
Great work. Nice looking build. I really enjoy seeing and learning about new gear. Things have come along way since I was kid helping my pops & grandpa out with projects.
Maybe it's a sign I'm getting old? That nearly half of my youtube history & recommendations is power tools & carpentry. The other half a mix of history documentaries, how it's made, gunsmithing, & cat zoomies 🤔🤷🏼♂️🇺🇸
I worked in home improvement. I like to watch videos to read comments about all the things I did wrong.
Thanks! Sounds like good memories were made.
Great video. How do you attach the L-brackets when you flip the last board?
I was able to install them from the underside of the deck since it’s above ground.
I've used bowrench to help with a bowed deck board. I work by myself. Very easy to use and works using framing members. No screwing decking scraps first. SAVES TIME.
Smart. I was going to do the same thing. I didn’t open the package from Amazon until the day I needed it. The handle was missing so it wasn’t useable. Lesson learned.
Bark side down or end grain smile will avoid cupping or holding water later on in my experience
You're a great teacher, thanks
Thanks Jack! All the best on your build, enjoy!
Great job.
Super tips .
Thank you
Well done 👌
@@AliDivsalar-nf8nv hey! Good to hear from you, thank-you!
Bravo! It’s always impressive to see a person installing decking who doesn’t curse. I haven’t mastered that skill. Otherwise, if deck boards go a bit squirrelly and warped, hitting them with a hose and leaving them to heat up in the sun makes them far more pliable when it comes to finessing them back into straight.
Good tip David on the hose. You're right decking calls for finessing and love I hearing about new solutions to try out. Thanks for that! Hope you're enjoying your summer. I'm sure you have some projects in the works. 👍
Aren't they gonna swell, and after they dry up again, they'll leave larger gaps between? Otherwise I'm on *board* ..
Wow, a tool that is not outrageously priced. How do the screws stand up to remove them in 5 years hiding on the side?
Agreed, it is well priced! I can’t say in 5 years time. Old decks with traditional screws rust out and require pry-out or cutting. Traditional deck screws don’t always cooperate. If there was an issue I’d use a multi-tool on an angle with protection on the adjacent board.
Great video! Where can I find a list of the exact type of deck boards you used. Are they cedar? Having troubles choosing which type of wood!
Thanks Julie! I’m using pressure treated deck boards 5/4 x 6 in this video. Cedar is my favorite but very pricey here. I’m on a budget and I love this look! It’s my go-to for a natural look and most homeowners assume it’s cedar.
Amazing, detailed video. I'm ready to build my own deck now.
Go get ‘em! Thanks 👍🏽
In the UK it can be hot one minute and cold and wet the next.. I’m now having to redo my deck because although treated the gaps closed up in the Winter time surface water then couldn’t drain away so by Spring time it was lifting etc.. I’m still not really sure what the best gap is to go for because debris can easily block the gaps if it’s too narrow and wide gaps just get wider in the summertime.. Tricky!
Yes, you raise a good point. The more your temperature and conditions of your weather contrast you’ll see greater differences in expansion. Also, the type of lumber and moisture content of the decking is an important consideration. Your experience will lead you to a good decision. Hello to you in the UK! 🇬🇧 I love visiting your beautiful country.
Question. What do you think is the best oil base sealer for a Washington red cedar deck? I don’t want to stain it, but I do want the grain to pop and bring out the natural red color. Thanks, Al
I don’t have an oil based stain to recommend. If anyone else does please share here in the comments. Cedar is beautiful with a natural stain, it will look lovely. Hello to you in Washington State. It’s a beautiful place!
When doing the deck from start I usually try to build it so that no ripping the nearest board to house is needed, (little math on paper or just top view drawing SketchUp). Those screw systems are easy to use and look way better then screwing through the face, but I still haven´t given up on the idea of going full medieval and building a deck with no metal fasteners for the boards just dove-tail and wedged wooden pegs...
That’s a great thing to do ahead of time so there’s no ripping. Thanks for sharing that tip. It’s a good one! Dove-tail would be next level. That’s an eye for detail!
Amazon offers hidden fasteners for 1/3 of name brand cost. I been installing hidden deck fasteners 20+ yrs & only facescrew material when necessary
Thanks Sam for sharing your experience with hidden fasteners. I have a link in the description for Amazon. Yes, you know it they have good deals worth checking out. Appreciate it!
Start your first board at the start of the home or structure your deck IA built off of. After you install it. Start pulling measurements from other end of the deck. So you can start squaring up your deck boards to land perfectly on it. It's alot easier and the end product comes out nice. With less work.
What?
Thanks for sharing your experience and tips!
My contractor is suggesting that in addition to the two Camo screws, he should face screw one screw in the center of each board to every joist to prevent cupping, board pulling out one of the edge screws, etc. Your thoughts?
Sounds like your contractor is cautious which isn’t a bad thing. I also have used these as face screws on risers etc. I haven’t had issues but regionally you might experience different conditions than I do.
Have you tried hidden fasteners yet, what do you think? Have your say here or share a tip of your own! Thanks for watching.
You May Also Like: 👇
What Nobody Tells You About Building Deck Stairs: th-cam.com/video/VvHZ5aPQGtY/w-d-xo.html
"no one"...really?!
In the joists
Thanks for sharing some good tips. As a professional I always put the boards tight together so when they dry out and shrink the gaps dont get to big. I also prefer standard screws with the larger head placed about an inch from the edges ( not hidden) for better holding power and less chance of splitting the edge of the deck board. The camo tool is something Ive never used but it seems pretty cool for the purpose you showed. If i get a customer that wanted hidden fasteners on wood Id try to talk them out of it but would do it for an extra charge ( having to buy the special tool and screws that im sure are more expensive) if they really were set on it. Good job overall!
Thanks for sharing your perspective. Where I live we can’t put our deck boards tight because our lumber isn’t wet. Our neighbours to the south can put their deck boards tight depending on what region they live. Yes, you are spot on! To your point it requires more labor so you’d have to take that into account with pricing.
Great video and I really appreciate the detailed explanations. I have a couple of questions; for a ground-level floating deck where one side will be against the house, how do you recommend attaching that last deck board since there is no access to the underneath to screw in the brackets? And, is there a recommended way in which direction to lay the deck boards - the long way or short way on the deck?
Hi Frank! For the last deck board I also face screw with the edge deck screws. Like I did in the video for the first deck board. I’ve been really happy with the look because the screws disappear and are hard to see. I usually install deck boards in the same way as in the video. Parallel to the length of the house. It elongates the deck for a nicer look. ❤️
@@DaruDhillon thank you so much for your suggestions and reply!
@@frankcampos1251happy to help. Good luck! 👍🏽
Nice. You have the heart of a teacher. nb: With the junky big box store deck boards, I get best results installing with zero gap. They shrink a full 1/8" because they're so wet to start.
Thanks for the tips! Appreciate your thoughts on spacing. Good to hear from you.
This chick is completely clueless you never put spaces in between pressure treated lumber decking you bring them up tight because against one another that because they will shrink the way she’s doing it you end up with a haft 1” space between the boards.
You install with no spacing if your wood is wet. I’m in Canada. Our wood is not wet. It has less shrinkage than US pressure treated. Spacing is based on moisture content and the amount of overhead debris/nature that will be accumulated on the deck. This deck is featured in my deck staining video. With lots of closeups on the spacing. You might get a kick out of it!
I did not see what you did with the L brackets after flipping the board over?
@@pearlhall3787 that’s because I didn’t show it, as you can see. You attach the other side to your joists. If that’s not possible you can always face screw your last board or install it before the two boards preceding it so you have room to install it. Thanks for the question!
@@DaruDhillon thanks
But How do you take these screws out? 😮 Looks like inhave to cut them out
You can reverse them out if needed.
@@DaruDhillon thanks 😊
Who really cares if you can see screws you gonna lose sleep because your neighbor came over said oh no look at all the screws they give it character save money stop buying fasteners
Thanks for your feedback in this!
I’m not using wood water loves unprotected material.
Thanks for sharing your perspective. I know in some areas composite is popular. Where I live people prefer natural materials like wood. 🌎
Buy hanging fascia over now you have to notch post some people should stick to something they know.
This was built for deck mount posts. No notching required.
How do you avoid cupping or bowing when only screwing the edges? Also wondering how many boards rip out the edge when they shrink.
I haven’t had an of those issues. I’m using the longer screws. Our wood here isn’t wet so the shrinkage is minimal with the 1/16” spacing.
Those are some mighty boots for deck work
They come in handy. It’s like having an extra set of hands. 👋🏽
You the woman 👩 👍👍😘⚾️
Hey Bob! Thanks. I like the ⚾️❤️
🥰
Tight spacing on treated helps hold water and warp boards at least in my experience. Bigger spacing helps them dry and makes it easier to clean. IMO
Thanks for sharing your experience with your deck. You are right that keeping them clean from debris is important. Appreciate your take!
It would be tough having you as a co-worker every day LOL...Good stuff though.
why?
Dang... just finished my deck... wish I had seen this before I started.
Not to worry, it is great. Enjoy it.
I smell a razorblade business..
Great instructional video. Every deck i install i use the camo pro. It makes work so simple and amazing looks. Lets talk abiut the milkwauke surge. How much do you love it? I wish i bought one sooner. Such a great tool and love how quiet it is.
I do love it. Fortunate to have been using them for years. Lots of power and reliable. Thanks!
Awesome.
Thanks Rochielle!
"Daru Dhillon". Why does that name sound so familiar??? Have you been on TV?
Good memory! I did
Bravo Daru 🤩😘
Hi Jac! Thanks ☺️
love it! thank u! how do u get a board off if u goof up or need to replace an old board?
You remove the screws at an angle with your drill.
Would if you need to replace a board in the middle of your deck?
Remove screws at an angle and protect the adjacent board when removing.
Uhhhhhhh what was she Building????
I’m installing hidden fasteners. If you’re interested in deck building you can check out my deck building playlist. Cheers!
Great video. I like the jig you set up for straightening the boards. I used the camo screws on my floating deck about six years ago and love the look. Had a couple break but that’s to be expected. It is very time consuming though.😊
True that. It's extra time but I love the looks so much. Good to hear that it worked out for you on your floating deck! You're ahead of the curve on using the screws. A lot of people are just finding out. Thanks!👍
I never understood the desire for hidden fasteners.
Hi Dave, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.
Nothing wrong with a face screw
Tried and true. Used them today on a beautiful raised garden bed. Agree wholeheartedly.
I was always taught lay boards crown up. That way the edges don’t curl up over time.
That’s good advice Mark. Thanks!
Thats BS . Best side up. Wood
manufacturing will tell you that. That's old school bs
Really, really beautiful🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Thank you! Cheers!
Great deck videos - thanks! I would like to use the bracket method for the first deck board. Do you have a recommendation for fasteners? I can’t find any galvanized screws that are short enough for a 5/4” cedar board.
Thanks Shannon! I picked the brackets up at HD they come with the screws. When using brackets try to install the ones on the corners as close to edge as you can to keep it laying flat. Good luck with your project!
Great video,@@DaruDhillon, and as much as I hate to be a smartass, please say lying flat.
Only chickens "lay"....as in, eggs. The rest of us lie....as in down! As in, I'm going to lie down for awhile.....Tell the dog to lie down.....Make sure that board is lying flat on the ground. Yes, it's English, from England...where all "new" North Americans got their language AND their laws. (I say "new", because I'm not sure how a native American or a First Nations Canadian says "I think I'll go like down for a few minutes!" Cheers, and please do Google it. 🙂
I have the greatest tip for everyone never use a impact drill for installing deck boards or hidden fasteners. It’s noisy and extremely slow compared to a regular drill. But thanks for the good videos.
Thanks for sharing this tip. I have heard that some people prefer using a drill vs an impact driver. If anyone else would like to weigh in with what they like and why that would be great. Thanks for posting your thoughts!
I think it’s personal preference and if your wearing the APPROPRIATE PPE. NOISE WONT BE A FACTOR !!
Impact is much faster than a drill . Compare and you will see
@@donaldconover4782 impact is faster than a drill. Unbelievable. Ok.
In my experience a drill can stop at a point of resistance, while an impact driver will hunker down and keep going. This is why I used an impact driver for my entire deck construction.
Looks time consuming and expensive ... traditional exposed deck screws rule, and can be easily tightened after wood shrinks/warps.. and are easily accessable for future repair or modifications.
There are definitely fans of each method. This look goes well with modern or contemporary homes. Thanks for weighing in with your take. 👍🏽
@@DaruDhillon Your Videos are Awesome.. like your delivery & production. You rare very likeable!!.. even if I'm not a fan of them hiden screws, lol.
@@KrustyKlown Thanks! I appreciate that. We can all learn from each other and value different ways of doing things. It’s good to keep an open mind.
You can back out the Camo screws using the tool if a borad ever needs to be replaced. Cheers!
What kind of wood did you use for deck floor?
I use pressure treated wood. It has the highest rate of return of any deck. In the areas I work, most people assume it’s cedar. As I was hauling the lumber a neighbour said “I love the smell of Cedar”
@@DaruDhillon Awesome thank you so much 🙏
You never said what to do with the angles after you flip the board over. How do you fasten them to the joist if the deck is 2 feet off the ground and can't access to screw them?
I’d fasten the last deck board and then the two before it so that my drill will fit. Out of sequence from the norm.
@@DaruDhillon That's the part that was missing from the video. I was confused about this too. Thanks
Great hair girl, :)
Thanks!
You are amazing you do beautiful work keep up the good job😊😉
Thank you so much 😀
What's the point of using screws vs nails if you don't actually do it in a way that allows easy removal of the boards when time comes for repairs? I only use face screws for that reason. Makes it easy to access them as my cedar deck needs regular maintenance because of the humid climate we have in Onrtario.
Thanks for sharing your take on cedar. I haven’t found any issue with removing boards. I use a drill on an angle with a putty knife to protect the adjacent board. It’s good you found a system that works for you! I’m in Ontario too. ❤️👍🏽
@@DaruDhillon Removing boards after a few years (which is typically when you have the need to replace them) is a BEAR because dirt and wood fibers have filled in the screw head making it nigh impossible to engage the bit. Also typically you can't see the head properly and have to jiggle the bit around to engage by "feel". I've had some success by using an awl to clean out the hole (and the gunk in the head) but to do that successfully on 16+ screws just to remove one board is asking for a lot.
It is easy to remove the camo screws, just put your drill on an angle and pull them out, shouldn't really take more time than face screws. The camo system is overall a way better option. The drill angle of the screws prevents warping of deck boards and keeps them crowned for water drainage. The screws are also less prone to splitting wood and the finished look is a lot cleaner and more professional.
They will warp
Use long screws if you’re concerned go with deck screws. Cheers!
Thank you
You're welcome!
Where the are screws
The edge is where the screws are. Not in sight but securing the deck boards on the sides. Do you like the look?
what kind of wood are you using?
Pressure treated. Looks amazing, with great value.
so is it pine wood?@@DaruDhillon
@@DaruDhillon how do you remove the green stains that are usually found in this kind of wood?
@@giovannimurru I find they fade over time. But if someone knows a trick please share!
I bought the Camo system on the recommendation of another TH-cam contractor and the results are fantastic! It’s easy to use and provides strong secure fastenings. And the appearance of a deck with no exposed hardware is so clean and professional looking. I’d recommend this product to everyone.
@@brianmcconnell1817 Thanks Brian for sharing your experience. It’s really helpful when viewers weigh in with their reviews. I agree the look is amazingly clean and professional!
Congratulations you just figured out how to add an extra days labor cost to installing a deck . I'm sure the contractors are going to love this.
doy?
very cool!
@@jimr5855 yes! I’m with you on that.
Nobody is bother if you see the screws !
If you don’t mind seeing the screws, go with what you like! Thanks for sharing your take. ❤️