We always use 2x6's. Never have to replace them until its time to replace the whole thing usually. I didnt know thats what a cats paw was for haha. I was always like this is a stupid pry bar. Why did you pre-drill holes? I've never split or cracked a decking board fastening one, its a pretty hearty board.
Always need to check the grain of the deckboard to make sure its crown down, otherwise cupping will occur and you will be changing out deckboards more often then needed!
To be clear, and this is what I think you meant, you want the boards to crown up. But that means laying them with the rings appearing to be crown down. eg, the rings forms a smile when viewed edge on.
@@AndyMarr29 Easier to see than to describe. When a wood board with symmetrical rings is still not completely dried out, it can appear flat, but as it dries the sides of the board move away from the flat of the center of the board. Cupping will occur if the board is initially laid flat, and then those sides lift upwards. This would hold water instead of shedding it, rotting the board much quicker. Laid correctly the board will crown, shedding water.
When you build your deck in the first place, add a layer of shingling or foundation waterproofing on top of the joists to preserve them. About 3" wide strips. I am rebuilding a 48x12 deck that is 13 years old, and the boards were totally rotten but the joists 100% rot free because of this
thank you so much for this. i'm a 30 year old female that bought my first house last year. i've been stressing about the costs of getting some of my deck boards replaced. i feel confident making an attempt myself after watching this video. thank you!!
my contractor took two of his fingertips off at the first knuckle with a skill saw.. if you value your fingers have someone else do it, or not, he does this party trick where he puts his missing fingers against a beer can to make it seem like this disappeared.
Hey honest carpenter, as always, love your work. Adding my two cents worth - with 5/4 decking I'm content to use 2" or 2 1/4" #8 shank decking screws; there's really no advantage to a longer screw, and the #8 shank goes in easily without predrilling (except in end boards of course). Remember, with round rings, bark side down to prevent cupping . . .
Thank-you beyond words for those of us who need the extra attention to safety and detail. It provides the confidence and enjoyment of "doing it ourselves"!
I am unfortunately at this point in my deck also. I am the repair woman of the house and can use a little bonus direction. I had a plan already but bonus video is definitely a bonus
I just did this using an oscillating tool. When both deck board ends were rotten, I was able to plunge cut to the next joist instead of replacing two 12’ boards. 33” replacements instead of 24’ made it a much cheaper fix. Pulling nails were not a problem because the boards were rotten anyway. 🤣
It’s like I’m doing my apprenticeship while watching these videos :) But not being yelled at by a cranky boss :) - Awesome Video, great way to learn...
One of the best videos about decks. After looking at a few videos, I replaced a few rotten planks of my deck last month. It was the first time I did this kind of project. I purchased a reciprocating saw first. Along with the deck planks, my joists which rest on the ground, are also rotten. Some sections of the joists were completely rotted. So after removing the planks, I replaced small sections of the joists under the removed planks with a 4x4 treated wood. It was tough but I managed. I think a circular saw would have worked easier. Removing planks for the entire deck would have been very expensive during these days of the Pandemic. Its now looking colorful but I think in a few months, the color of the new planks will merge with the older ones. Its confusing work initially but now if I need to replace more, it will be a piece of cake.
I recommend sealing the butt ends (new and old) with oil/stain, paint, etc. before installing, maybe even the newly exposed joist edges while you're at it; consider staining the new lumber before installation. I wonder, has anyone ever used a plug cutter to drill around hard-to-remove nails or screws?
Good advice, t! I'm yet to use the plug cutter method, though there are a variety of tools out there now that expose embedded fasteners. Some cat's paws also have a little cone on the side that you can drive down with hammer to divot around the nail head.
Liked your video, very clear and concise instructions and well filmed. I just replaced a number of rotted 2 x 4s but found it difficult to extract the spiral nails using the hammer and pry bar technique. I ended up using an angle grinder to take the heads off the nails, then the board comes up easily with the pry bar. Next time I build a deck I’ll used screw nails!
I have to replace some smaller portions of the rotting deck boards and join to the good portion of the deck board. The deck is on the 2nd floor - 10 ft above ground. Do you recommend that i cut in the middle of the joist and create a butt-joint or cribb it w a 1.5 inch piece - giving each piece a good inch underneath ? Thanks.
Is there a working method to remove boards that are fastened using screws? Every phillips screw I've tried to remove ends up with a stripped head. After years of being in place these simply will not come out.
Great Idea, I'm about to start replacing the deck boards and this will be perfect. I didn't want to cut them and risk the structure below (which is solid).
Nice job. I'm planning on replacing just all my floor boards in my deck and they were all nailed in previously not screwed. Are screws better to use i would assume ? And are deck screws universal size or are there different sizes. What general size should I use ? Thanks
I finally after much trial and effort ended up using an angle grinder on the screw heads. It's fast and easy on the bad boards. Then just run the grinder down the joist tops to get the screws (not nails on my deck) flat to the surface. It works great. I'm doing a thousand sq foot deck (last worked on in 2000 according to the expiration dates on the beer cans underneath) with three levels of structure with the bottom level six by sixes on concrete piers with rebar sticking out with rotten soft joist tops under the deck boards that I am sistering in (with bolts) ground contact two by sixes to the old redwood six by sixes as all but about the top half inch are good. I had one area out the back door where the rot went down to the foundational six by sixes close to a rock wall. The rest has all been good, so far. They had let the bottom one have ground contact and it turned to powder in places. I managed with bottle jacks to cut out the bad six by six and put in a high quality spruce replacement on the piers ensuring no ground contact this time. It's actually kind of fun and much cheaper than the 20K plus estimates I was getting on replacing the deck. Oh and I was just introduced to a wrecking bar called the Deck Demon. I will be investing in one of those.
Thanks so much. Your instructions was the gospel; From the tools needed to do the job to getting the nails out correctly and the boards to replace it with. I just started with a step, now I'm charged-up to tackle the large area's with a passion.
Thank you for the video! I think a friend and I can do this! One question..I assume you angle the screws in both ends of the board. I know the video shows you angling the screw in the first end but you didn't show the last end. Thanks!
Screws hold stronger and can simply be unscrewed next time maintenance requires their removal. Definitely screws. I'd particularly recommend Torx/star - I'm currently disassembling most of my deck for a renovation and had some Torx, some Phillips. The Torx are much easier to engage and remove after years or paint, stain, crud, etc.
This is by far the best video i have come across to learn or get some tips on how to do something. It was straight to the point, you didnt go off on some pointless story or didnt explain the process more than you have to. You spoke clear, made it simple and easy to understand. Thank you!
I've got a few boards in need of replacing so thanks for the great video. Quick question, why did you use screws and not nails? Genuine question and not criticism as I am not a carpenter and want to know before I go ahead and replace mine.
I think screws are more robust and they won’t back out with time. Nails are probably easier to deal with since you just need a hammer for install. But screws are the way to go imo. I plan on replacing a few boards and will go with T25 head exterior screws.
Will that pry tool work in screws? The screws are all stripped on my deck so I am plunge cutting all pieces including at the joining part on the joist. I try not to go too deep in the joints so I don’t slice a line into it, but would be ideal to be able to pry out all the screws so I can bit up the planks against original spot without plunge cutting.
I was wondering how come you used screws for the replacement board while the original fasteners were nails? Is one better than the other? I wanted to ask because I get conflicting advice online - nails vs screws for decks. Thanks!
Really helpful video, thanks. Would a drop saw / mitre saw be easier to cut the boards with? I assume it would make it easier to get the cut exactly where you want it without needing the speed square?
petee1968 You’re welcome, thanks for watching! Yes, a miter saw would definitely speed up the cuts, as well as keep them square. I sometimes just show cuts like this with a circ saw because I know more DIYers have them
@@TheHonestCarpenter wouldn't it be difficult to cut that 14 foot lumber on a miter saw. That tip with the speed square is a good one I will start using to keep my cuts nice and square
artincorona Yes, it absolutely would! Unless you have a long table setup, anything over 10’ can be a real pain on a miter saw. That’s what I love about circular saws-so mobile. Thanks for watching, and good luck with those future projects! 🙂
scott howes Thank you! Best odds are your deck is pine if it looks anything like the one in this video. (Composite decks look a bit more plasticky, and more exotic lumber tends to not have this many knots or loose grain.) Its always a good idea to replace with whatever lumber you already have in place. In the southeast, where I live, they pretty much only treat pine lumber, so it’s not hard to source. If you want help identifying what you have, feel free to reach out to me at our website! www.thehonestcarpenter.com
Lou Indorato I’ve definitely seen it work before. It really depends on the extent of deterioration, but if a board looks decent on the underside, give it a shot. You can always take it out again later if need be
shadow ninja gameing Whew, that’s a nightmare situation! I’ve punched through them before on decks I was fixing. Always scary and unexpected. Good luck re-topping though. And thanks for watching!
thanks good video , but what if the deck boards are installed with screws and the screw heads are damaged ? also , should you paint the back and sides of the replacement deck boards before you install them ? thank you
Can you let me know why you used screws instead of nail? I’m just wondering if you found it makes a huge difference because I’m noticing where the previous tenant used screws the boards are cracked and falling apart where as the ones with nails just flex sometimes and I just hammered them back down good as new.
I used screws on the advice of carpenters back in 2006. Many of them deteriorated after a few years (“lifetime” warranty - yeah) and I found it VERY difficult to get them out. I’m having to dig down to the head and use locking pliers to spin them out. If I had used nails it would be much, much easier to replace things now.
Hey Dave, thanks for subscribing! I actually run a full blog on home improvement. Check it out here: thehonestcarpenter.com/ You can reach out to me through the Contact page. Also, very soon I'm going to be adding a live video consulting service through my website. For a small fee, you'll be able to book a 30-minute consultation, where we can discuss contracting situations via video stream, and you can even show me various problems around your house. I'm really looking forward to getting it started. And thanks for smartphone technology, I'll be able to consult with people all over the country!
Inevitably, you split the second hole as you drove that screw without a countersink hole to allow for the head to go past the wood surface. On those ends...it is critical to both drill + countersink drill to prevent that split...in 2 years, after some expansion and contraction your board will be split open and screw not holding anything. Often, I just give in and scab on a small 1' 1'/2" nailer piece at board end areas....to allow the screws to be drilled a full 1'1/14" from the end, then with a slight maybe 15 degree angle you get a great joint with the full 1'1/2" of nailing space on each end joint.
Just wondering if there is a good way to drill out the old nails? They are in very tight and nail puller and crowbars require a lot of upper body strength which is lacking on our part. I was wondering if there is a way to counterbore around the existing old nails to get them easier to pull. Has anyone done it that way, and if so what drill bit would one use.
Hey Margaret, I usually split the boards AROUND the nail head. I do this with a large flathead screwdriver and hammer. Just takes a few hard taps. The board comes up in pieces, and you can pry out or break off the nails in the joist then.
My joists were wet when i lifted the board so what i did was i let the wet joist dry out in the hot sun all day then i treated the joist then finally fitted the board
Thank you for this video! I am a novice and having trouble countersinking the screws. I'm pre-drilling the hole deep enough. Then I'm using a screwdriver bit with a drill. What could I be doing differently?
Hey Joanna, if it’s still very hard to drive the screws, try using a slightly larger drill bit to bore the hole. That should reduce friction on the screw a little bit, but still let it work.
I bought deck boards to replace on my deck which measured 1”x51/2” (5/4”x6”). Upon removing old boards they measured 1 3/32”x5 3/4”. Will my green lumber swell to those dimensions or should I just get 2”x6” and rip and plane them down?
Hey Guido, thanks for writing! That does happen sometimes, and I’ve got two methods for dealing with it: 1) use a strong nail set and hammer to drive the nail all the way through the board, down into the joist 2) failing that, use a BIG flathead screwdriver (the demolition kind) and a hammer to split the board where the nail is located. Drive the screwdriver in like a chisel, striking hard with the hammer. The grain around the nail head will usually split no problem, and the nail will lose its purchase.
Hi and thanks for the answer. Because I'm reusing all the boards by turning them over, I can't break them apart. So I ended up buying 2 crawbars and lifting the boards from the side, with nails and everything.
Can you address why you put the printed side of the board up? How to you remove the writing? Also, new boards are always lighter in color, take stain differently and do not blend. How to you correct that when, or before, applying the finish?
I watched a video of a husband and wife having a full blown battle over the name of the speed 'square' being the shape of a triangle. I am glad it was them and not me, because she makes a great argument for why you shouldn't ask for a square that is shaped like a triangle without explaining yourself.
When you replace a number of old boards in the center of the deck what about the spacing with the old shrunk boards if you’re not replacing the whole deck. I have about 15 boards I need to replace in the center of a large 18x18 deck. They are in a herringbone configuration. If I keep the new ones tight it’s gonna be off because of shrinkage. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
Thank you, Honest Carpenter! Your excellent tutelage just saved me a couple hundred buck! AND I got some self-satisfaction from it after my wife told me that I should hire a professional. Hah!
My God, thank you. I was trying to save myself a bit money by replacing a few boards on my deck. But I have no experience with deck building but thought how hard can it be to replace a few boards. I was making a mess of it. And after the first board I thought, there has to be a better way. And there is, thank you. I don't have a nail pincer. But I'd imagine anything that can get below a nail head will work. Off I go to work smarter, not harder.
My cedar framework is 8 by 2. The deck is showing its age, with many boards needing to be replaced. Wonder if I should just replace the deck top, as the deck is 12 years old.. Any suggestions. Great video.
Who uses one by material to build a deck? Who Phillips drive screws? Those went out years ago, because they strip out and are impossible to remove. Everything I’ve seen is 2x6 material and square or torx Drive deck screws. Those deck boards don’t have much space in between, and the deck is close to the ground. Surprised it hasent all rotted out. Looks like you almost lost a finger when you pointed at the rotating blade of your saw, while explaining not to set the rotating saw down. BTW. Since your trying to save money by replacing individual boards, you don’t have to replace an entire long board. You can use an Oscillating cutter to remove the bad section of a board and you could save over replacing a very long board, as long as the new board is long enough to span several joists and you don’t line up to an adjacent seam.
do you recommend putting joist tape on top of the joist when replacing individual boards? We have a 19 year old deck and are trying to make it last as long as possible.
I have a question. Why is it no one in any of the videos I've watched, mention to put the crown of the board up? That helps keep the boards from rotting so quick. Thanks. Oh, besides being honest, you are the smartest one I've watched!! My hubby use to work construction, and taught me a lot about wood, screws and tools. I do my own projects, and have my own tools. 😀
Thank you, TexasRose!! Glad to hear you’re doing your own work-most folks just don’t seem to want to tackle it these days. And you’re absolutely right about crowning up. The truth is...I just forgot to mention it! Making videos on the job site is so tedious at times that I just flat out fail to say important things. I’m slowly trying to make my videos more comprehensive though. I greatly appreciate the feedback and support-thanks for watching!!
You are so welcome. I really did enjoy watching your video. And mentioning the crowning up was not meant to be criticism. And as you said, it was just a point you forgot. I forgive you! ;) As I said, you weren't the only one. Have a great day, and thanks for your reply.
Thanks, I ordered the nail puller 10.6. I am an idiot that used 2x6 and I did not leave any spacing between boards. Now I use 3" deck screws with the square drive heads. I put that crap Rustoleum Revive or whatever its called. After 3 years its peeling up. So now i have to scrape or power wash, my wife wants cement 12x20. So I will replace the boards that have rotted. I also have a corrugated fiberglass roof that looks dirty from out old maple tree right over it.
I am replacing some boards on my deck and noticed all the boards rot at the ends, right on top of the joists. Now I am avoiding the top of joist, replacing by in between joist or about 8in beyond the joist. I realized the water in between boards caused the rot and moving the joint to between joist fixed the problem. The 2x6 boards can easily support 300 lb using the 8 in cantilever. Hope I am adding my experience with my deck. Thanks.
Good video, but why use Phillips head screws instead of torx head screws ? Can hear driver head jumping, damaging screw heads. Torx head screws won’t do that.
Excellent. Very thorough and well explained tutorial. MUCH better than the tool before you that did "How-To Easily Remove Rotting Deck Boards That are Nailed to your Deck". That dude turned out to be a hack and a waste of almost three minutes I'll never get back. LOL.
I have a question... I recently bought my first home and it has a screened porch. It's basically a wood deck with aluminum framing and it's screened in and roofing. I want to change out the decking. The porch is 8' x 20'.... The 2"x 4" x 8' butt up to the house but the aluminum framing is on top. I'm no carpenter so I want to have an idea if its doable for a diy. How do I get the board from under the framing? Do I take framing apart? Thanks
Hey Aduhwan, I actually didn’t cut any! I only replaced full boards. I think this is a good idea because a board with defects in one area may eventually reveal them in other areas as well. If I was going to make a plunge cut, I would probably use a oscillating multi tool. I wrote a whole article on them, check it out! thehonestcarpenter.com/tools-materials/the-best-saw-youve-never-heard-of-the-multi-oscillator/
You can plunge cut it with a circular saw. 6.5” dewalt worked for me and it didn’t go into the next board. I went between joists,wiggled them out in a see-saw action and then used the recip saw to cut the screw heads. Since they were all stripped
I always use the old boards as a “pattern “ instead of measuring. Just lay them on top of the new board and draw a line . Faster and eliminates mistakes. Just common sense.
Hi, new subscriber. I have a back deck that was attached to the house which I came to learn is a not a good idea. My back door sill rotted so I replaced the door but I also had to remove about 3-4 ft of deck that was closest to the house. It was cut out along the entire deck length so now there’s about 3-4 ft of missing deck. Do you have any videos for adding in a new section and ensuring it’s level with the existing deck. Plan is to not attach it to the house this time around but to leave a gap between the deck and house. Looking for some videos on how to best do this type of job. Thanks!
The way that one board is put in the wrong side up, with the printed-on labelling visible, and the way you used sunk screws when all the other boards had flush nail heads would bother me so much.
Every deck carpenter I have seen cuts boards with a sliding miter saw/drop saw - faster and easier to ensure right angle cuts and much easier on the back than working on the ground
Great video. Can you go over if the 5/4 board has a slight bow to it and how to straighten it out if it’s butting up too close to an existing board. Thanks!
On my deck, I am considering replacing some boards that definitely need to be replaced due to decay (not many). I was also planning to replace some other boards due to ends not meeting over the joists. They have shrunken away from each other over time and were probably cut out of boards that weren't long enough to begin with. My question is: besides appearance, as long as I don't have boards popping up out of joists and the wood is still healthy, is it wise to replace these short deck boards in order to protect better the joists underneath--debris settles in the open spaces, water contacts those joists more easily, etc.? Other question: how important are the different grades of pressure-treated deck boards, standard vs premium, KDAT or not, or any other considerations. I don't need to stain right away, although I wouldn't be opposed to getting the job done right away, since the deck, as a whole, needs a new coat. Hot, humid, rainy weather in Georgia during the summer makes staining tough right now.
If you were going to strip and stain the deck would you, would you replace these boards and then strip and stain or would the stripping process mess up the new boards? These new boards need 6-8 weeks before stain is applied?
Rob Bastien Usually depends on amount replaced and market you’re in. Say $600 and up for 10 boards or so is not out of question in my area of NC. Includes material cost, driving time for pickup, etc...Do you do small carpentry repairs?
Good night, we have on existing deck over our gorage with rails around it, so the rooftop is leaking. Do have to take the rail down to redo the roof? Thanks
This deck looks brand new! You should see my deck 😂😂😂
Thank you Sr. Now I have a idea how to do this and have a good day.
What attracted me to this video are the subtle safety tips which most of the people ignore. Really in-depth . That's a +1 subscription from me. :)
We always use 2x6's. Never have to replace them until its time to replace the whole thing usually. I didnt know thats what a cats paw was for haha. I was always like this is a stupid pry bar. Why did you pre-drill holes? I've never split or cracked a decking board fastening one, its a pretty hearty board.
Always need to check the grain of the deckboard to make sure its crown down, otherwise cupping will occur and you will be changing out deckboards more often then needed!
To be clear, and this is what I think you meant, you want the boards to crown up. But that means laying them with the rings appearing to be crown down. eg, the rings forms a smile when viewed edge on.
@@TheRayDog Correct, many people get this point wrong. Forms a smile is a good way to remember; in Canada we always say "bark side down" . . .
@@fredberger3155 how does it cup it, if it goes in wrong?
@@AndyMarr29 Easier to see than to describe. When a wood board with symmetrical rings is still not completely dried out, it can appear flat, but as it dries the sides of the board move away from the flat of the center of the board. Cupping will occur if the board is initially laid flat, and then those sides lift upwards. This would hold water instead of shedding it, rotting the board much quicker. Laid correctly the board will crown, shedding water.
@@TheRayDog what do you mean by viewed on edge?
When you build your deck in the first place, add a layer of shingling or foundation waterproofing on top of the joists to preserve them. About 3" wide strips. I am rebuilding a 48x12 deck that is 13 years old, and the boards were totally rotten but the joists 100% rot free because of this
thank you so much for this. i'm a 30 year old female that bought my first house last year. i've been stressing about the costs of getting some of my deck boards replaced. i feel confident making an attempt myself after watching this video. thank you!!
my contractor took two of his fingertips off at the first knuckle with a skill saw.. if you value your fingers have someone else do it, or not, he does this party trick where he puts his missing fingers against a beer can to make it seem like this disappeared.
Hey honest carpenter, as always, love your work. Adding my two cents worth - with 5/4 decking I'm content to use 2" or 2 1/4" #8 shank decking screws; there's really no advantage to a longer screw, and the #8 shank goes in easily without predrilling (except in end boards of course). Remember, with round rings, bark side down to prevent cupping . . .
Thanks, i had no idea about those round rings and bark side down !
Thank-you beyond words for those of us who need the extra attention to safety and detail. It provides the confidence and enjoyment of "doing it ourselves"!
How do you feel about using good sections of removed boards to replace smaller sections instead of new boards?
I mean the color would be closer to matching versus new wood.
great video and very timely considering the time of year. Appreciate your presentation was very to the point and hope you keep posting!
I am unfortunately at this point in my deck also. I am the repair woman of the house and can use a little bonus direction. I had a plan already but bonus video is definitely a bonus
I just did this using an oscillating tool. When both deck board ends were rotten, I was able to plunge cut to the next joist instead of replacing two 12’ boards. 33” replacements instead of 24’ made it a much cheaper fix. Pulling nails were not a problem because the boards were rotten anyway. 🤣
I like this tip!
How did you prevent from using the same nail/screw holes when replacing the board? Seems like you would want a fresh hole for the new screws?
He went in at an angle. Also if you’re worried about going into the same hole, you can place wood filler
I had a few boards replaced, next year a few more, until more were rotting the next year. Had the hole deck redone. What a wonderful deck I have now!
It’s like I’m doing my apprenticeship while watching these videos :) But not being yelled at by a cranky boss :) - Awesome Video, great way to learn...
Thanks Grant! I promise not to do any yelling 😁
I feel your pain. I'm on my first interior job as an apprentice and my boss yells at me at least once an hour, haha...
Beats a complaining spouse anyday lol
@@kimsmith819 omg lol ....
One of the best videos about decks. After looking at a few videos, I replaced a few rotten planks of my deck last month. It was the first time I did this kind of project. I purchased a reciprocating saw first. Along with the deck planks, my joists which rest on the ground, are also rotten. Some sections of the joists were completely rotted. So after removing the planks, I replaced small sections of the joists under the removed planks with a 4x4 treated wood. It was tough but I managed. I think a circular saw would have worked easier. Removing planks for the entire deck would have been very expensive during these days of the Pandemic. Its now looking colorful but I think in a few months, the color of the new planks will merge with the older ones. Its confusing work initially but now if I need to replace more, it will be a piece of cake.
One of the best deck videos on TH-cam !
I recommend sealing the butt ends (new and old) with oil/stain, paint, etc. before installing, maybe even the newly exposed joist edges while you're at it; consider staining the new lumber before installation.
I wonder, has anyone ever used a plug cutter to drill around hard-to-remove nails or screws?
Good advice, t! I'm yet to use the plug cutter method, though there are a variety of tools out there now that expose embedded fasteners. Some cat's paws also have a little cone on the side that you can drive down with hammer to divot around the nail head.
Liked your video, very clear and concise instructions and well filmed. I just replaced a number of rotted 2 x 4s but found it difficult to extract the spiral nails using the hammer and pry bar technique. I ended up using an angle grinder to take the heads off the nails, then the board comes up easily with the pry bar. Next time I build a deck I’ll used screw nails!
I have to replace some smaller portions of the rotting deck boards and join to the good portion of the deck board. The deck is on the 2nd floor - 10 ft above ground. Do you recommend that i cut in the middle of the joist and create a butt-joint or cribb it w a 1.5 inch piece - giving each piece a good inch underneath ? Thanks.
Is there a working method to remove boards that are fastened using screws? Every phillips screw I've tried to remove ends up with a stripped head. After years of being in place these simply will not come out.
Unfortunately I just break boards around them, Raymond. Often just the best solution 😕
Great Idea, I'm about to start replacing the deck boards and this will be perfect. I didn't want to cut them and risk the structure below (which is solid).
Who uses nails on Decking???
Nice job. I'm planning on replacing just all my floor boards in my deck and they were all nailed in previously not screwed. Are screws better to use i would assume ? And are deck screws universal size or are there different sizes. What general size should I use ? Thanks
I finally after much trial and effort ended up using an angle grinder on the screw heads. It's fast and easy on the bad boards. Then just run the grinder down the joist tops to get the screws (not nails on my deck) flat to the surface. It works great. I'm doing a thousand sq foot deck (last worked on in 2000 according to the expiration dates on the beer cans underneath) with three levels of structure with the bottom level six by sixes on concrete piers with rebar sticking out with rotten soft joist tops under the deck boards that I am sistering in (with bolts) ground contact two by sixes to the old redwood six by sixes as all but about the top half inch are good.
I had one area out the back door where the rot went down to the foundational six by sixes close to a rock wall. The rest has all been good, so far. They had let the bottom one have ground contact and it turned to powder in places. I managed with bottle jacks to cut out the bad six by six and put in a high quality spruce replacement on the piers ensuring no ground contact this time. It's actually kind of fun and much cheaper than the 20K plus estimates I was getting on replacing the deck. Oh and I was just introduced to a wrecking bar called the Deck Demon. I will be investing in one of those.
Thanks so much. Your instructions was the gospel; From the tools needed to do the job to getting the nails out correctly and the boards to replace it with. I just started with a step, now I'm charged-up to tackle the large area's with a passion.
Certainly LOOKS easy. I suppose that’s because you know what your doing and been doing it a while ❤
Thank you for the video! I think a friend and I can do this! One question..I assume you angle the screws in both ends of the board. I know the video shows you angling the screw in the first end but you didn't show the last end. Thanks!
Do you suggest using screws vs nails for replacement boards? I see that you used screws for this project. Thanks for a great video!
I have the same question. Great video, it was very helpful!
Not nails. As the wood ages and warps, nails have a tendency to loosen and come up, creating foot snags.
Screws hold stronger and can simply be unscrewed next time maintenance requires their removal. Definitely screws. I'd particularly recommend Torx/star - I'm currently disassembling most of my deck for a renovation and had some Torx, some Phillips. The Torx are much easier to engage and remove after years or paint, stain, crud, etc.
My deck in nearly 40 years old. The framing is solid, but the decking and rails need to be replaced. Should I just replace the decking and rails?
Great video! I learned a lot. Now I won't waste time at Home Depot searching for 1.5 x 5.5 inch boards. My deck uses what is apparently 2x6.
Very nicely explained for everyone who has no clue about construction but trying.
Thanks Chris! That's a lot of my audience. I try to keep it simple, but still show some pro-level tricks and approaches :)
This is by far the best video i have come across to learn or get some tips on how to do something. It was straight to the point, you didnt go off on some pointless story or didnt explain the process more than you have to. You spoke clear, made it simple and easy to understand. Thank you!
I've got a few boards in need of replacing so thanks for the great video. Quick question, why did you use screws and not nails? Genuine question and not criticism as I am not a carpenter and want to know before I go ahead and replace mine.
I think screws are more robust and they won’t back out with time. Nails are probably easier to deal with since you just need a hammer for install. But screws are the way to go imo. I plan on replacing a few boards and will go with T25 head exterior screws.
Will that pry tool work in screws? The screws are all stripped on my deck so I am plunge cutting all pieces including at the joining part on the joist. I try not to go too deep in the joints so I don’t slice a line into it, but would be ideal to be able to pry out all the screws so I can bit up the planks against original spot without plunge cutting.
I was wondering how come you used screws for the replacement board while the original fasteners were nails? Is one better than the other? I wanted to ask because I get conflicting advice online - nails vs screws for decks. Thanks!
Here bc I have the same question
Circular saw? Nope. Miter saw on a table. Safer.
Really helpful video, thanks. Would a drop saw / mitre saw be easier to cut the boards with? I assume it would make it easier to get the cut exactly where you want it without needing the speed square?
petee1968 You’re welcome, thanks for watching! Yes, a miter saw would definitely speed up the cuts, as well as keep them square. I sometimes just show cuts like this with a circ saw because I know more DIYers have them
@@TheHonestCarpenter wouldn't it be difficult to cut that 14 foot lumber on a miter saw. That tip with the speed square is a good one I will start using to keep my cuts nice and square
artincorona Yes, it absolutely would! Unless you have a long table setup, anything over 10’ can be a real pain on a miter saw. That’s what I love about circular saws-so mobile. Thanks for watching, and good luck with those future projects! 🙂
Excellent video - stainless screws on a deck would probably outlive the pressure treated wood.
This is all good except.... if your deck is attached with screws, this replacement method is only good for the board measurement part. Screws suck!
Excellent video! Very helpful. How do i know what type of wood my deck is, and what type of wood to use for replacement boards?
scott howes Thank you! Best odds are your deck is pine if it looks anything like the one in this video. (Composite decks look a bit more plasticky, and more exotic lumber tends to not have this many knots or loose grain.) Its always a good idea to replace with whatever lumber you already have in place. In the southeast, where I live, they pretty much only treat pine lumber, so it’s not hard to source. If you want help identifying what you have, feel free to reach out to me at our website!
www.thehonestcarpenter.com
great video and very timely considering the time of the year. This is well done for those with zero skill & experience.
Can you just flip them over ?
Lou Indorato I’ve definitely seen it work before. It really depends on the extent of deterioration, but if a board looks decent on the underside, give it a shot. You can always take it out again later if need be
Dude awesome video super helpful and saved a bunch of money doing it myself. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome Bryan! Thanks so much for watching. I’m really glad it helped! 😄
Nice video would use but I need to replace a whole deck my 190 lb friend almost fell through
shadow ninja gameing Whew, that’s a nightmare situation! I’ve punched through them before on decks I was fixing. Always scary and unexpected. Good luck re-topping though. And thanks for watching!
thanks good video , but what if the deck boards are installed with screws and the screw heads are damaged ? also , should you paint the back and sides of the replacement deck boards before you install them ? thank you
thanks for bending down those nails, just looking at that rusty nail i felt a phantom twinge in my foot.
Do I need to "weather" the replacement board before staining/waterproofing them?
Can you let me know why you used screws instead of nail? I’m just wondering if you found it makes a huge difference because I’m noticing where the previous tenant used screws the boards are cracked and falling apart where as the ones with nails just flex sometimes and I just hammered them back down good as new.
I used screws on the advice of carpenters back in 2006. Many of them deteriorated after a few years (“lifetime” warranty - yeah) and I found it VERY difficult to get them out. I’m having to dig down to the head and use locking pliers to spin them out. If I had used nails it would be much, much easier to replace things now.
I'm a new subscriber and I would like to know, if I had other questions and concernes, how can I get in contact with you?
Hey Dave, thanks for subscribing! I actually run a full blog on home improvement. Check it out here:
thehonestcarpenter.com/
You can reach out to me through the Contact page. Also, very soon I'm going to be adding a live video consulting service through my website. For a small fee, you'll be able to book a 30-minute consultation, where we can discuss contracting situations via video stream, and you can even show me various problems around your house. I'm really looking forward to getting it started. And thanks for smartphone technology, I'll be able to consult with people all over the country!
Splits the end of the board with a countersink.
When you put the screws in at an angle...were they going into the joist or into the board it is butted up against?
Excellent video, thank you. 👍
Inevitably, you split the second hole as you drove that screw without a countersink hole to allow for the head to go past the wood surface. On those ends...it is critical to both drill + countersink drill to prevent that split...in 2 years, after some expansion and contraction your board will be split open and screw not holding anything.
Often, I just give in and scab on a small 1' 1'/2" nailer piece at board end areas....to allow the screws to be drilled a full 1'1/14" from the end, then with a slight maybe 15 degree angle you get a great joint with the full 1'1/2" of nailing space on each end joint.
Good info, thanks
Just wondering if there is a good way to drill out the old nails? They are in very tight and nail puller and crowbars require a lot of upper body strength which is lacking on our part. I was wondering if there is a way to counterbore around the existing old nails to get them easier to pull.
Has anyone done it that way, and if so what drill bit would one use.
Hey Margaret, I usually split the boards AROUND the nail head. I do this with a large flathead screwdriver and hammer. Just takes a few hard taps. The board comes up in pieces, and you can pry out or break off the nails in the joist then.
My joists were wet when i lifted the board so what i did was i let the wet joist dry out in the hot sun all day then i treated the joist then finally fitted the board
thank the sweet jebus for TH-cam and its creators
Was thorough but not a word about spacing or how to deal with bowed boards
Thank you for this video! I am a novice and having trouble countersinking the screws. I'm pre-drilling the hole deep enough. Then I'm using a screwdriver bit with a drill. What could I be doing differently?
Hey Joanna, if it’s still very hard to drive the screws, try using a slightly larger drill bit to bore the hole. That should reduce friction on the screw a little bit, but still let it work.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thank you!! That worked great. New deck boards are in place. :) :)
I bought deck boards to replace on my deck which measured 1”x51/2” (5/4”x6”). Upon removing old boards they measured 1 3/32”x5 3/4”. Will my green lumber swell to those dimensions or should I just get 2”x6” and rip and plane them down?
How do you remove a board when all the nail heads break when trying to remove them? Thanks.
Hey Guido, thanks for writing! That does happen sometimes, and I’ve got two methods for dealing with it:
1) use a strong nail set and hammer to drive the nail all the way through the board, down into the joist
2) failing that, use a BIG flathead screwdriver (the demolition kind) and a hammer to split the board where the nail is located. Drive the screwdriver in like a chisel, striking hard with the hammer. The grain around the nail head will usually split no problem, and the nail will lose its purchase.
Hi and thanks for the answer. Because I'm reusing all the boards by turning them over, I can't break them apart. So I ended up buying 2 crawbars and lifting the boards from the side, with nails and everything.
Guido G that’s as good as anything in that case guido. I’m glad it worked out!
Doing this project this week and the video was super helpful. Thanks!
Good luck!
Can you address why you put the printed side of the board up? How to you remove the writing? Also, new boards are always lighter in color, take stain differently and do not blend. How to you correct that when, or before, applying the finish?
I watched a video of a husband and wife having a full blown battle over the name of the speed 'square' being the shape of a triangle. I am glad it was them and not me, because she makes a great argument for why you shouldn't ask for a square that is shaped like a triangle without explaining yourself.
When you replace a number of old boards in the center of the deck what about the spacing with the old shrunk boards if you’re not replacing the whole deck. I have about 15 boards I need to replace in the center of a large 18x18 deck. They are in a herringbone configuration. If I keep the new ones tight it’s gonna be off because of shrinkage. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
Thank you, Honest Carpenter! Your excellent tutelage just saved me a couple hundred buck! AND I got some self-satisfaction from it after my wife told me that I should hire a professional. Hah!
My God, thank you. I was trying to save myself a bit money by replacing a few boards on my deck. But I have no experience with deck building but thought how hard can it be to replace a few boards. I was making a mess of it. And after the first board I thought, there has to be a better way. And there is, thank you. I don't have a nail pincer. But I'd imagine anything that can get below a nail head will work. Off I go to work smarter, not harder.
My cedar framework is 8 by 2. The deck is showing its age, with many boards needing to be replaced. Wonder if I should just replace the deck top, as the deck is 12 years old.. Any suggestions. Great video.
Who uses one by material to build a deck? Who Phillips drive screws? Those went out years ago, because they strip out and are impossible to remove. Everything I’ve seen is 2x6 material and square or torx Drive deck screws. Those deck boards don’t have much space in between, and the deck is close to the ground. Surprised it hasent all rotted out. Looks like you almost lost a finger when you pointed at the rotating blade of your saw, while explaining not to set the rotating saw down. BTW. Since your trying to save money by replacing individual boards, you don’t have to replace an entire long board. You can use an Oscillating cutter to remove the bad section of a board and you could save over replacing a very long board, as long as the new board is long enough to span several joists and you don’t line up to an adjacent seam.
do you recommend putting joist tape on top of the joist when replacing individual boards? We have a 19 year old deck and are trying to make it last as long as possible.
I have a question. Why is it no one in any of the videos I've watched, mention to put the crown of the board up? That helps keep the boards from rotting so quick. Thanks. Oh, besides being honest, you are the smartest one I've watched!! My hubby use to work construction, and taught me a lot about wood, screws and tools. I do my own projects, and have my own tools. 😀
Thank you, TexasRose!! Glad to hear you’re doing your own work-most folks just don’t seem to want to tackle it these days. And you’re absolutely right about crowning up. The truth is...I just forgot to mention it! Making videos on the job site is so tedious at times that I just flat out fail to say important things. I’m slowly trying to make my videos more comprehensive though. I greatly appreciate the feedback and support-thanks for watching!!
You are so welcome. I really did enjoy watching your video. And mentioning the crowning up was not meant to be criticism. And as you said, it was just a point you forgot. I forgive you! ;) As I said, you weren't the only one. Have a great day, and thanks for your reply.
@@TheHonestCarpenter you forgot to mention it because for people who work with wood a lot, it just seems like common sense :-)
Thanks, I ordered the nail puller 10.6. I am an idiot that used 2x6 and I did not leave any spacing between boards. Now I use 3" deck screws with the square drive heads. I put that crap Rustoleum Revive or whatever its called. After 3 years its peeling up. So now i have to scrape or power wash, my wife wants cement 12x20. So I will replace the boards that have rotted. I also have a corrugated fiberglass roof that looks dirty from out old maple tree right over it.
Super helpful and he made it look easy. I would have pried the boards up, instead of digging nails out first. Glad I watched this first!
@c robinson Thanks for watching! I’m really glad it was helpful 🙂
My issue is after I replaced the boards I can feel a difference in height when I step on them. Not all boards, just a few.
Any remedy?
I am replacing some boards on my deck and noticed all the boards rot at the ends, right on top of the joists. Now I am avoiding the top of joist, replacing by in between joist or about 8in beyond the joist. I realized the water in between boards caused the rot and moving the joint to between joist fixed the problem. The 2x6 boards can easily support 300 lb using the 8 in cantilever. Hope I am adding my experience with my deck. Thanks.
Good video, but why use Phillips head screws instead of torx head screws ? Can hear driver head jumping, damaging screw heads. Torx head screws won’t do that.
Excellent. Very thorough and well explained tutorial. MUCH better than the tool before you that did "How-To Easily Remove Rotting Deck Boards That are Nailed to your Deck". That dude turned out to be a hack and a waste of almost three minutes I'll never get back. LOL.
I have a question... I recently bought my first home and it has a screened porch. It's basically a wood deck with aluminum framing and it's screened in and roofing. I want to change out the decking. The porch is 8' x 20'.... The 2"x 4" x 8' butt up to the house but the aluminum framing is on top. I'm no carpenter so I want to have an idea if its doable for a diy. How do I get the board from under the framing? Do I take framing apart? Thanks
How did you cut out the old deck board sections without damaging the remaining "good" board? You did not show or explain how you did this. TIA.
Hey Aduhwan, I actually didn’t cut any! I only replaced full boards. I think this is a good idea because a board with defects in one area may eventually reveal them in other areas as well. If I was going to make a plunge cut, I would probably use a oscillating multi tool. I wrote a whole article on them, check it out!
thehonestcarpenter.com/tools-materials/the-best-saw-youve-never-heard-of-the-multi-oscillator/
You can plunge cut it with a circular saw. 6.5” dewalt worked for me and it didn’t go into the next board. I went between joists,wiggled them out in a see-saw action and then used the recip saw to cut the screw heads. Since they were all stripped
Thank you for the great info.
Steve Romanow You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
I always use the old boards as a “pattern “ instead of measuring. Just lay them on top of the new board and draw a line . Faster and eliminates mistakes. Just common sense.
Hi, new subscriber. I have a back deck that was attached to the house which I came to learn is a not a good idea. My back door sill rotted so I replaced the door but I also had to remove about 3-4 ft of deck that was closest to the house. It was cut out along the entire deck length so now there’s about 3-4 ft of missing deck. Do you have any videos for adding in a new section and ensuring it’s level with the existing deck. Plan is to not attach it to the house this time around but to leave a gap between the deck and house. Looking for some videos on how to best do this type of job. Thanks!
The way that one board is put in the wrong side up, with the printed-on labelling visible, and the way you used sunk screws when all the other boards had flush nail heads would bother me so much.
Ok, so, if you're not happy with your deck, you can just replace it...
Every deck carpenter I have seen cuts boards with a sliding miter saw/drop saw - faster and easier to ensure right angle cuts and much easier on the back than working on the ground
First you said 48 1/2 , but I'll cut it an eighth shorter , then you said I will cut this 48 5/8🙄
Really impressed with the organic walk through. Happy to subscribe.
Great video. Can you go over if the 5/4 board has a slight bow to it and how to straighten it out if it’s butting up too close to an existing board. Thanks!
Awesome Thanks! Saved me from buying the wrong size lumber 😅
I need to replace my deck boards and the joist hangers. Most have rusted, and one of them is off, and the joist is just hanging there.
What do you do if the boards are screwed in. But the screws are so deep I can't get them with my screw gun even using the right screw head
Honest question: Why use screws instead of matching the nails? Seems like it makes the repair stand out as more obvious.
On my deck, I am considering replacing some boards that definitely need to be replaced due to decay (not many). I was also planning to replace some other boards due to ends not meeting over the joists. They have shrunken away from each other over time and were probably cut out of boards that weren't long enough to begin with. My question is: besides appearance, as long as I don't have boards popping up out of joists and the wood is still healthy, is it wise to replace these short deck boards in order to protect better the joists underneath--debris settles in the open spaces, water contacts those joists more easily, etc.? Other question: how important are the different grades of pressure-treated deck boards, standard vs premium, KDAT or not, or any other considerations. I don't need to stain right away, although I wouldn't be opposed to getting the job done right away, since the deck, as a whole, needs a new coat. Hot, humid, rainy weather in Georgia during the summer makes staining tough right now.
Shoot I screwed all my screws from the bottom, stupid idea. Looks good though.
Wow! You made it look possible to do! Best video I’ve seen about the topic so far. Thank you.
If you were going to strip and stain the deck would you, would you replace these boards and then strip and stain or would the stripping process mess up the new boards? These new boards need 6-8 weeks before stain is applied?
What would be a good price range I could charge for that type of task?
Rob Bastien Usually depends on amount replaced and market you’re in. Say $600 and up for 10 boards or so is not out of question in my area of NC. Includes material cost, driving time for pickup, etc...Do you do small carpentry repairs?
Good night, we have on existing deck over our gorage with rails around it, so the rooftop is leaking. Do have to take the rail down to redo the roof? Thanks
Thank you very much for the tips. It was very helpful. Just subbed your channel.
Thanks Jeff! More coming soon
Stodoys Blueprints has some very useful blueprints with all the details you need.