I did the same seam on my deck, however, if you don't have a space between the "sister cleat" and the joist, it creates a place for water to pool up and seep into the decking - particularly on the end grain where it is the most vulnerable. I decided to add 3 washers as separators between the joist and sister cleats to get that 3/8 gap. I used bolts through the washers to join the joist and sister cleats so water could drain out immediately and not pool at the ends of the decking. Remember to put joist tape on the sister cleats as well! I always enjoy your videos April!
Good morning, April! It's always a good morning when I can spend it watching April Wilkerson working one one of her fantastic projects, over a good cup of coffee. Thanks for sharing! Have a GREAT week!
I've watched you for quite a while, and am always amazed at your projects. Your attitude towards explaining how, why, and what's happening and what's going to happen. I also learn a lot about the little extras that you add, such as the tape, type of screws,and the plastic over the joist. Thank you for these amazing videos.
Two tips I picked up the hard way, was I now always pilot drill holes for the ends of each board, because that's where splitting occurs either immediately or later down the road. Second is never set my spacing (either tight or with a gap) according to what I see at the raw, factory end of the board. I base it on a few inches in and let the end just sit where it is. This is because on the shelf, the exposed end grain dries faster and shrinks a tiny bit. It might be almost unmeasurable, like a 32nd of an inch, but after just a few boards that adds up to a quarter inch or more. It baffled me why the rows kept bending and needed re-straightening, until I learned to ignore the factory ends and set it according to the next joist in.
On the other hand, since “modern” screws have reversed-pitch annular spurs and under-head nibs that allow the screw(s) to self-countersink one can avoid drilling. The drilled hole with typical tapered ‘flat head’ screws acts more like driving a wedge through the wood increasingly splits in many cases. A cutting-thread deck screw or a nail severs the wood grain and does not ‘pry’ the lignin in the wood apart.
@@fishhuntadventure Correct, even though I predrilled all my holes, the regular flat head kept splitting my ends if I went to deep. Building a new deck now for a friend and will be using the DoubleLok screws in SS, #10. Also using a Drywall screw setter so the depth will be the same for all screws- Semi flush.
Installed many a deck in my time as a carpenter and one thing I always did was pre-drill holes in the end of every board because I found out it helped a lot in it not splitting when you put in the screws .... And especially in standard basic 5/4 treated decking boards ...... Otherwise great job you two.
Riley_1942 - Back then screws were bugle headed which caused most of the splitting. Todays screws are still bugle headed, but have a built in counter sink which doesn't always work, especially with the crap their calling lumber!
I never use spacers for decking. I measure the average (or max) width of the boards, add the gap I want and then work out how many I need to cover the width of the deck ending with a full board. Divide the width by the number of boards to give the theoretical board plus gap. Multiply that by five or six and mark (flick) lines on the joists. Lay those boards first and then fill in the gaps. This way you are always parallel and straight and you know exactly where you end up.
This looks lovely...I live in the UK and have Western Cedar on my house...its over 65 years old I have just sanded it and had to paint it as yes its only just starting to crack at the very bottom of the boarding...It will be replaced in about 2 to 3 years time and leave it natural and just oil it as I love the colour of the natural wood.
This deck cantilevers over the carrier beam by a few inches. A fairly easy solution to eliminate the need to adjust the spacing on the last few boards is to leave your joists uncut, and simply measure once you get to your last 1 or 2 deck boards. Then cut your joist to the appropriate length, add your rim joist and you'll have the perfect overhang need for fascia and overhang.
Some good comments April. I've built a few dozen decks over my life and might have some additional observations. Cedar IS pretty, and I've installed lots of redwood decks too, from con heart to VG clear. I'll never recommend one again. They are beautiful, but they DO decay, faster than you think. The nicer the wood, the worse I feel when it decays. I've gone to synthetic. I know, wood is renewable, but, of course has slivers for the bare feet, and nicer wood is less renewable. I HAVE used certain type of Ipe for recently for a deck. I pre drill the screw hols for that. Why use such? for fire retardant reasons. Turns out that certain species of Ipe, actually have a Class A fire rating. (west coast, we have fires). Secondly, yes, the old standard for spacing between boards was a sinker, (16 penny nail) which is probably a bit less than 3/16ths. I've done that, (terrible) to 3/8" better, to 1/2". I know, 1/2" is too wide for high heels. But the decks I build on my ranch, don't see high heels. I get a fair amount of rainfall, and anything closer than 5/16" swells up promotes rot. 3/8" doesn't swell up, but that spacing collects detritus, (small branches, needles, etc). I went to 1/2" about 10 years back, and that works the best for me. With a small blower, the deck cleans well and easily. Most needles drop right thru. I agree, stainless screws are very much better than non stainless. Of course with synthetic, (like Trex) I'd suggest torx composition as they are the best looking and much easier to drive than Phillips or even square drive. I agree about planning out the joists carefully. I try NOT to have seams come together on top of doubled up joists. Cause those seams always collect more debris, and thus rot. Putting tape on top of the joists is a good practice too. There are special tapes for such, but if you are wanting to be cheap, one can just cut heavy tar paper strips for the top and that will help considerably. (of course if money is not an object, I've seen some folks use copper strips which last and are antimicrobial anyway. Of course, each person has different ideas about beauty, and your deck is lovely too.
On a natural wood deck, do you think it's better to use hidden fasteners? Fastening from the top seems like it would open up more areas for decay in natural wood.
+1. Composite decking, while more expensive to buy initially, will hold up for decades and maintain its color with no maintenance. I use it exclusively now when I build outdoor furniture. It's pretty bulletproof.
I recently pulled off 35 year old deck boards and the circa 1988 joists were clean with no decay, in US climate zone 4, humid summers and 45-60” rain annually. No tape on those joists but probably a good idea with current pressure treated lumber.
I have been working on a deck and I am really enjoying this series! I love when you have a project series, they are always awesome! It looks beautiful!!
love a good diy. I just wanted to mention your long joists being notched like that makes them essentially 2x8s. might want to lay a ledger board under them or maybe joist hangers. keep up the good work!
The deck is looking awesome, but for me, that extra-light board in the middle section would drive me crazy 😉 Will it darken over time to blend with the others?
I put a deck in 15 years ago in the UK. I didn't use any products on it as it was graded pressure treated. I also used green passivated screws. The only maintenance required is pressure washing in the spring to remove dirt and moss.
Aim to have a straight fastener pattern and screws set flush to the top of the surface . Avoid opening the grain if possible leads to rot. Great work. WRC STK is nice material to work with.
I noticed that many new decks do not have spacing between the boards. Our contractor insisted on installing our new deck boards this way and I hate it! There is no where for water, ice, slush, snow etc to go so it was an icy, slippery mess all winter. The edge of the boards are rounded, which means there is a nice groove to collect all the dirt and debris which is almost impossible to sweep out. All in all I highly recommend using a spacer for deck boards.
The flips and cartwheels were awesome! Love to see the celebrations and shenanigans like that, especially mixed in with such a helpful and well thought out and executed process.
Nice! Your seam looks great! I just finished a 32x16 deck and only wish I had seen this first! A very good instructional video with tons of pointers! I just bought a Crescent speed square and the orange extension is very nice! Thanks for your great videos April. BTW…. The Texas hill country view is phenomenal from your deck! 😊.
Looks good. Could’ve saved some long boards by running them just long enough for your circle cut. Also I stopped putting a beam under the deck years ago and now incorporate the beam to the outside edge of the deck and put the joist on hangers. It just looks better imo.
Great Deck build, only rec I have is, splurge a little and buy the deck screw gun that allows you to standup the whole time. $500 for shortening your job ~6-7hrs and priceless for saving backs and knees. Plus you can resell for $350 no problem. Great build, looks like it will last a lifetime.
Beautiful hill country deck! The Western Red Cedar is gorgeous, and just like my deck guy John Wilkerson used to replace my deck a few years ago. Hard to beat that knotty irregularity. Great tips & insight.
Love the seam design concept. Looks great. I like that the screws in the end of the deck boards are not super close to the end and that they’re not sharing a joist. I made that mistake once. Eventually the boards split a little and provided a path for water down to the joists. Ended up re-decking and replacing some joists due to that. The joist tape would’ve helped but I wasn’t aware that it existed. Nice job!
I have used a few of the hidden deck fastener systems such as the kreg deck jig or the camo marksman pro. These fasteners usually cost a little extra money and require a little extra time. But it leave a flawless top surface which makes a huge difference especially in canada where the snow will melt and stay in the fasteners and start to rust them in a couple of years. If you ever have to refinish your deck they also give the benefit on not having to worry about the fasteners wrecking the sanding belts. Great job this deck looks fantastic.
Interesting, colorful intro for this series. Very artistic. I would love to resurface our existing deck with your water capture system but we have perpendicular braces across the span to keep the boards from twisting and warping. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Wishing you and your family a blessed week filled with gentle seasonally appropriate weather and restful evenings. Peace April
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va I do exactly that because my free-handing is so mediocre. But the intent of my comment was not to seek advice, but to compliment April on her saw skills.
My area requires hurricane ties for each joist, blocking in-between all the joists and sometimes angled bracing depending on the size of the deck. I would also have to bring up the old section of the deck to current code since im adding on to it.
Try reversing the deck boards starting at the end and setting the overhang you want. Set up control lines in blue caulk at two foot to make it easy to layout. I also like to picture frame the deck boards so you don’t have end grain. I also live in the heart of the red wood district on the west coast, red wood is cheaper than cedar. The wood is wet and will shrink in place. I also found ripping the board next to house can be scripted to match the house. Most homes are not perfectly straight.
Hey April! All of your videos are just amazing ! Building a deck myself and using alot of your tips thank you for posting! Quick question - what size of screw are you using with your 2x6 deck boards? #10 3.5in SS? I am also using 2x6 decking Thanks!
She did a video about it around 8 months ago. I don't think I can post links, so I will just give you the title to search on her channel. Just search: April Wilkerson Best Portable Chair Ever Easy to Build | Easy to Store
I split up my 30' long deck with the triple beam breaks 30 years ago. I pre-drilled every nail hole to avoid checking later. Deck screw like the ones you're using weren't available back then. Nice job on your end. Why is there plastic under that one section?
Question: In another deck video you used ring shank *nails* instead of screws to secure the deck boards... Which one do you think is best and why? (Pros/cons, etc.)
I don’t know if this will effect how the deck I’m planning to build will look 😅 but I love your boots! Please tell me where you got them, are they docs?
with the 2nd part, would not have put that piece of lumber in yet at the other side so you can bump them in, and all cut at once at where you want it, then put that piece in. works a lot easier.
When you were cutting the ends of the deck boards off, i noticed the grain of the wood was all different - some bark side up, some bark side down. Isnt the best practice to do bark side down, crown? So they dont cup? So you put them "smiley face up"? About to do a deck. Would love your take.
Thanks for the tips about pool in deck, I am anxious to see the video about the pool rim. Did you have to treat the ends of the deck that cantilever? My client wants Trex. In California we can’t use wood decks or siding in high fire zones😢
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it has really helped me learn the knowledge, materials, and process to accomplish the projects I want around my homestead. Another quick question, I have an artificial knee, and it really hurts to kneel down on it, even with most knee pads. That knee pad you wear looks very comfortable, could you please let me know what brand and model it is, so I can get one to try? Thx!
Awesome video! I do have a question. That Redwood cider for your decking boards is NOT pressure treated? I know regular pine pressured treat wood dose SRINK as it dries out leaving a bigger gap between decking boards then you may have wanted which would affect the not staggering seam that you did on your deck. Peace
What about the cracks I saw in some boards? Would it be better to pre drill the boards so they would not crack out when installing the screws? Otherwise nice job!
You could build a jig to help withe screw hole alignment. One edge butts against the joist edge and piece of wood screwed on top of it. The edge of the screwed in piece of top runs halfway along the top of the joist. Mark on this piece of wood the location of the middle of the plank of wood. This gives you a visual reference where to put the second screw and it is lined up against the first. You could also 3d printed this and extend the top of wood sideways so you have a hole, this will keep your drill straight and aligned better
I have flipped over my ten-year-old pressure-treated boards and am starting again with the non stained side up and now need to know if I should put a 1/8 gap in between all the boards before I screw them down. I've heard that I should do that to allow for movement. The trouble is I don't want to put a space between because those gaps tend to fill up with all of the tree stuff that's surrounding the deck. Is it necessary to put the 1/8 Gap between the boards? Thank you so much for your advice.
I like western red cedar also Back in 75' I work at a sawmill in Goldbar, wa. that cut cedar only and remember also the pleasant fragrance that place had it is now shutdown 😢 As a logger I cut into cedar windfalls that had been on the ground for 100 years that were perfectly preserved
I totally agree with the stainless steel screws, cost more but you never have to replace them unlike the crap deck screws you get nowadays...been there done that!
I missed you putting what looks like some heavy mil plastic at one end before you put the boards down. Erosion control? Where there's a walkout door underneath going to another level I've put corrogated sheet metal underneath with a slight pitch. With a trough or gutter the water could be drained to one end or the other. Closed in with plexiglass panels for sliding windows, 4 seasons tile on the concrete slab and that's where hot tubbing happens all year round. But even the metal alone will keep it drier. In the case where somebody lets a pet out there instead of letting them outside through the front it will protect the poor innocent enjoying coffee sitting on the freshly refinished set of cedar furniture and cushions after somebody's daughter did a bad paint job with interior latex the previous year. The craziest variation was at a buddy's place I put up rope lights where when it rains on the above deck where there's no roof it looks like a neat water feature with lit up streams hitting the river rock. Now down to serious issues. How far is your drive off the tee?🏌♀⛳👍
I'm in Australia where a WRC deck would be ridiculously expensive but even if money was no object I would have thought cedar is too soft for decking boards? I've got lots of cedar weather boards and joinery so have some experience working with it. Down here most decks are built with 90mm * 19mm (3 1/2"*3/4") or 135mm*25mm Merbau, Spotted Gum, or Iron Bark. They're all durable hardwoods which must be predrilled with a countersink bit. I was surprised by no pre drilling so thought maybe that's a thing with cedar?
So I'm curious...why didn't you use the Camo SS Edge decking screw to hide the screws and keep moisture out of the fastener hole? And why only rain gutter that small section of decking vs make all of it dry underneath?
I had TWO different composite decking installations...the last being an Alcoa brand that fell apart. After all that I was coerced into pvc...and I am glad that I was. We used the rabbeted material and the 45 degree fastener with stainless screws. Edges had screws and plugs. I find the pvc head and shoulders above PT. When the sun gets to PT it just gets ugly. My pvc deck honestly looks as good 5 years later as it did on day 1. PT just won't do that no matter what you coat it with.
this looks awsome. im doing a deck now, this morning ill be laying deck boards. i was shocked to see you say red cedar. how beautiful that is gonna be!!! those are some pricey deck boards tho lol
Holy cow that's a big deck. I never built a deck before and just finished a small walkway deck for the 1st time. Used oil stain. I imagine if I planned I could do a bigger deck.
Thanks for another helpful video . What kind of knee pads are those? I have a hard time keeping my knee pads up, really like the straps on those . Thanks !
When you sistered the cedar board to the 2x to make the seam, how did you make sure the deck boards on both sides of the seam had enough 2x to get screwed down?
Nice video as usual. Curious about follow up to your video awhile back where you were going to explore starting laser CNC business. Did you decide not to finish that series? Thanks
Great video. April, I do have a question; I noticed you have a knee brace/pad on your left knee. Where did you get that and how padded is it? I only ask because I have had a knee replacement. Keep up the great work. God Bless.
real nice build. simple, intelligent, attractive. Love the long decking and the seam.. and of course the WRC. video really well done too.. good flow, well shot. educational but dosnt drag. I didnt fast forward anything.
I did the same seam on my deck, however, if you don't have a space between the "sister cleat" and the joist, it creates a place for water to pool up and seep into the decking - particularly on the end grain where it is the most vulnerable. I decided to add 3 washers as separators between the joist and sister cleats to get that 3/8 gap. I used bolts through the washers to join the joist and sister cleats so water could drain out immediately and not pool at the ends of the decking. Remember to put joist tape on the sister cleats as well! I always enjoy your videos April!
i like this variation, awesome idea. thx for sharing.
Good morning, April! It's always a good morning when I can spend it watching April Wilkerson working one one of her fantastic projects, over a good cup of coffee.
Thanks for sharing! Have a GREAT week!
Aw thanks! I'm glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
I've watched you for quite a while, and am always amazed at your projects. Your attitude towards explaining how, why, and what's happening and what's going to happen. I also learn a lot about the little extras that you add, such as the tape, type of screws,and the plastic over the joist. Thank you for these amazing videos.
Two tips I picked up the hard way, was I now always pilot drill holes for the ends of each board, because that's where splitting occurs either immediately or later down the road. Second is never set my spacing (either tight or with a gap) according to what I see at the raw, factory end of the board. I base it on a few inches in and let the end just sit where it is. This is because on the shelf, the exposed end grain dries faster and shrinks a tiny bit. It might be almost unmeasurable, like a 32nd of an inch, but after just a few boards that adds up to a quarter inch or more. It baffled me why the rows kept bending and needed re-straightening, until I learned to ignore the factory ends and set it according to the next joist in.
On the other hand, since “modern” screws have reversed-pitch annular spurs and under-head nibs that allow the screw(s) to self-countersink one can avoid drilling. The drilled hole with typical tapered ‘flat head’ screws acts more like driving a wedge through the wood increasingly splits in many cases. A cutting-thread deck screw or a nail severs the wood grain and does not ‘pry’ the lignin in the wood apart.
@@fishhuntadventure Correct, even though I predrilled all my holes, the regular flat head kept splitting my ends if I went to deep. Building a new deck now for a friend and will be using the DoubleLok screws in SS, #10. Also using a Drywall screw setter so the depth will be the same for all screws- Semi flush.
Great tips. I’ve been building for a few years and I found I get my best results by trimming both factory ends.
Installed many a deck in my time as a carpenter and one thing I always did was pre-drill holes in the end of every board because I found out it helped a lot in it not splitting when you put in the screws .... And especially in standard basic 5/4 treated decking boards ...... Otherwise great job you two.
Riley_1942 - Back then screws were bugle headed which caused most of the splitting. Todays screws are still bugle headed, but have a built in counter sink which doesn't always work, especially with the crap their calling lumber!
And some are “self drilling”
I like to hit the seams and the end of the deck with a 1/4 round over bit. Just gives it a nicer finish. Deck is looking great though.
I never use spacers for decking. I measure the average (or max) width of the boards, add the gap I want and then work out how many I need to cover the width of the deck ending with a full board. Divide the width by the number of boards to give the theoretical board plus gap. Multiply that by five or six and mark (flick) lines on the joists. Lay those boards first and then fill in the gaps. This way you are always parallel and straight and you know exactly where you end up.
Great job April, looks really good around there. Fantastic play area and able to set back and relax too. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Thanks! I really love the look!
This looks lovely...I live in the UK and have Western Cedar on my house...its over 65 years old I have just sanded it and had to paint it as yes its only just starting to crack at the very bottom of the boarding...It will be replaced in about 2 to 3 years time and leave it natural and just oil it as I love the colour of the natural wood.
Wonderful! Yes, nothing beats the beauty of Wester Red Cedar. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
This deck cantilevers over the carrier beam by a few inches. A fairly easy solution to eliminate the need to adjust the spacing on the last few boards is to leave your joists uncut, and simply measure once you get to your last 1 or 2 deck boards. Then cut your joist to the appropriate length, add your rim joist and you'll have the perfect overhang need for fascia and overhang.
Good tip! Wouldn't have worked on this deck since there wasn't any blocking though. Only the rim joist holding the other joists in place.
Some good comments April. I've built a few dozen decks over my life and might have some additional observations. Cedar IS pretty, and I've installed lots of redwood decks too, from con heart to VG clear. I'll never recommend one again. They are beautiful, but they DO decay, faster than you think. The nicer the wood, the worse I feel when it decays. I've gone to synthetic. I know, wood is renewable, but, of course has slivers for the bare feet, and nicer wood is less renewable. I HAVE used certain type of Ipe for recently for a deck. I pre drill the screw hols for that. Why use such? for fire retardant reasons. Turns out that certain species of Ipe, actually have a Class A fire rating. (west coast, we have fires). Secondly, yes, the old standard for spacing between boards was a sinker, (16 penny nail) which is probably a bit less than 3/16ths. I've done that, (terrible) to 3/8" better, to 1/2". I know, 1/2" is too wide for high heels. But the decks I build on my ranch, don't see high heels. I get a fair amount of rainfall, and anything closer than 5/16" swells up promotes rot. 3/8" doesn't swell up, but that spacing collects detritus, (small branches, needles, etc). I went to 1/2" about 10 years back, and that works the best for me. With a small blower, the deck cleans well and easily. Most needles drop right thru. I agree, stainless screws are very much better than non stainless. Of course with synthetic, (like Trex) I'd suggest torx composition as they are the best looking and much easier to drive than Phillips or even square drive. I agree about planning out the joists carefully. I try NOT to have seams come together on top of doubled up joists. Cause those seams always collect more debris, and thus rot. Putting tape on top of the joists is a good practice too. There are special tapes for such, but if you are wanting to be cheap, one can just cut heavy tar paper strips for the top and that will help considerably. (of course if money is not an object, I've seen some folks use copper strips which last and are antimicrobial anyway. Of course, each person has different ideas about beauty, and your deck is lovely too.
On a natural wood deck, do you think it's better to use hidden fasteners? Fastening from the top seems like it would open up more areas for decay in natural wood.
+1. Composite decking, while more expensive to buy initially, will hold up for decades and maintain its color with no maintenance. I use it exclusively now when I build outdoor furniture. It's pretty bulletproof.
I recently pulled off 35 year old deck boards and the circa 1988 joists were clean with no decay, in US climate zone 4, humid summers and 45-60” rain annually. No tape on those joists but probably a good idea with current pressure treated lumber.
I have been working on a deck and I am really enjoying this series! I love when you have a project series, they are always awesome! It looks beautiful!!
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
love a good diy. I just wanted to mention your long joists being notched like that makes them essentially 2x8s. might want to lay a ledger board under them or maybe joist hangers. keep up the good work!
This deck is going to be awesome!
Who wouldn't want to be friends with April just to hang out there?
The deck looks great. And I got a couple of useful tips for when I do mine. 👍👍 Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Is that new music and intro/extro? Nice. Always love the care and thought you put into your projects. You are a natural instructor.
Thank you!
The deck is looking awesome, but for me, that extra-light board in the middle section would drive me crazy 😉
Will it darken over time to blend with the others?
I put a deck in 15 years ago in the UK. I didn't use any products on it as it was graded pressure treated. I also used green passivated screws.
The only maintenance required is pressure washing in the spring to remove dirt and moss.
Aim to have a straight fastener pattern and screws set flush to the top of the surface . Avoid opening the grain if possible leads to rot. Great work. WRC STK is nice material to work with.
I noticed that many new decks do not have spacing between the boards. Our contractor insisted on installing our new deck boards this way and I hate it! There is no where for water, ice, slush, snow etc to go so it was an icy, slippery mess all winter. The edge of the boards are rounded, which means there is a nice groove to collect all the dirt and debris which is almost impossible to sweep out. All in all I highly recommend using a spacer for deck boards.
This is by far the best decking tutorial video online 😊
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
The flips and cartwheels were awesome! Love to see the celebrations and shenanigans like that, especially mixed in with such a helpful and well thought out and executed process.
Yes it makes a workday fun to take a break and have fun. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
I've been watching this biuld and would like to know why you didn't have your out side posts come through the deck for your railing to secure too
Nice! Your seam looks great! I just finished a 32x16 deck and only wish I had seen this first! A very good instructional video with tons of pointers! I just bought a Crescent speed square and the orange extension is very nice! Thanks for your great videos April. BTW…. The Texas hill country view is phenomenal from your deck! 😊.
Looks good. Could’ve saved some long boards by running them just long enough for your circle cut. Also I stopped putting a beam under the deck years ago and now incorporate the beam to the outside edge of the deck and put the joist on hangers. It just looks better imo.
Great Deck build, only rec I have is, splurge a little and buy the deck screw gun that allows you to standup the whole time. $500 for shortening your job ~6-7hrs and priceless for saving backs and knees. Plus you can resell for $350 no problem.
Great build, looks like it will last a lifetime.
Yes. And if you're building a house and putting in sub-floor, no bending over there either.
Beautiful hill country deck! The Western Red Cedar is gorgeous, and just like my deck guy John Wilkerson used to replace my deck a few years ago. Hard to beat that knotty irregularity. Great tips & insight.
Thanks! Yes, I absolutely love Western Red Cedar. Thanks for watching.
Full of energy and haapy to share your knowledge ! Thank you !
Thanks, I enjoy sharing the things I learn! Thanks for watching.
Love the seam design concept. Looks great. I like that the screws in the end of the deck boards are not super close to the end and that they’re not sharing a joist. I made that mistake once. Eventually the boards split a little and provided a path for water down to the joists. Ended up re-decking and replacing some joists due to that. The joist tape would’ve helped but I wasn’t aware that it existed. Nice job!
I'll wager that is your first TH-cam walkover. Beautiful deck you two.
The cameraman is top-notched. Great distance awareness. And what a lovely deck gees.
Wow, it's an amazing looking deck!
Well done, April!
Thanks! Glad you are enjoying the Series. Thanks for watching.
I love the deck boards being lined up with deck board on edge to butt to.👍
Wow, the seam was a brilliant idea. Beautiful work.
Thank you very much!
Awesome ! Good job April
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Did I miss the part when you added the bladder under the deck boards? I can't find it.
Stay tuned to this Series of Videos. That issue will be addressed then. Thanks for watching.
@April Wilkerson awesome! I look forward to it, thanks.
Looks very very nice April! Great view! Awesome job!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Holy shoot! Best how to videos ever! If only all videos could be like these!
Great! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Excelente domingo April, bonita terraza, y después de un trabajo que mejor con una cerveza, puro trabajo bien echo al 100% con tornillos Espax. 🙏👍🍻
I have used a few of the hidden deck fastener systems such as the kreg deck jig or the camo marksman pro. These fasteners usually cost a little extra money and require a little extra time. But it leave a flawless top surface which makes a huge difference especially in canada where the snow will melt and stay in the fasteners and start to rust them in a couple of years. If you ever have to refinish your deck they also give the benefit on not having to worry about the fasteners wrecking the sanding belts. Great job this deck looks fantastic.
Is there a hidden fastener that hold as well as top screwing and is quiet when deck is walked on? Thx!
@@snarecat3441 the kreg deck jig on regular pressure treat deck boards holds really well and is very quiet
The production crew did a great job 👍
Thanks April love your work. Morepower.
Shalom ,Thanks April and the Frame Crew.
Really coming together. Looks great. I moved pretty much exclusively to Spax years ago. Great screws.
Yes, they are great! Thanks for watching.
Interesting, colorful intro for this series. Very artistic. I would love to resurface our existing deck with your water capture system but we have perpendicular braces across the span to keep the boards from twisting and warping. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Wishing you and your family a blessed week filled with gentle seasonally appropriate weather and restful evenings. Peace April
One of the things that impresses me about your work is your ability to cut free-hand on just a line. I need to improve on that skill.
You can always just clamp down a straight edge to follow... Like some aluminum angle.
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va I do exactly that because my free-handing is so mediocre. But the intent of my comment was not to seek advice, but to compliment April on her saw skills.
My area requires hurricane ties for each joist, blocking in-between all the joists and sometimes angled bracing depending on the size of the deck.
I would also have to bring up the old section of the deck to current code since im adding on to it.
I like the look of your decking seams April. I have never seen this before. Nice Design Touch! 😃👏👍
Thanks! I love the look. Thanks for watching.
Try reversing the deck boards starting at the end and setting the overhang you want. Set up control lines in blue caulk at two foot to make it easy to layout. I also like to picture frame the deck boards so you don’t have end grain. I also live in the heart of the red wood district on the west coast, red wood is cheaper than cedar. The wood is wet and will shrink in place. I also found ripping the board next to house can be scripted to match the house. Most homes are not perfectly straight.
I like picture framing to cover end grain and I’m going this on my current deck renovation.
@ 3:31 ish....Won't the plastic sheeting under the deck boards hold water and cause issues??
Keep watching this series because that issue is addressed. Thanks for watching.
Hey April!
All of your videos are just amazing !
Building a deck myself and using alot of your tips thank you for posting!
Quick question - what size of screw are you using with your 2x6 deck boards?
#10 3.5in SS?
I am also using 2x6 decking
Thanks!
you are such an inspiration! your deck is just gorgeous!
but wait.... those chairs... do you have a plan to build those?? love them!
She did a video about it around 8 months ago. I don't think I can post links, so I will just give you the title to search on her channel.
Just search:
April Wilkerson
Best Portable Chair Ever
Easy to Build | Easy to Store
At first i wasn't a fan of the seam, but by the end i was sold, actually looks really good.
Nice work on the deck April! Thanks for sharing the video with us!👍💖😎JP
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson Your very welcome April! Have a wonderful week😎
Are you a fan of the camo system? Where the screws are driven at an angle on the sides of the decking (so minimal screw visibility up top?)
I split up my 30' long deck with the triple beam breaks 30 years ago. I pre-drilled every nail hole to avoid checking later. Deck screw like the ones you're using weren't available back then. Nice job on your end. Why is there plastic under that one section?
Thanks! Stay tuned to this Deck Series. That issue will be covered shortly. :)
Great series, thank you. I noticed the drainage features you put under the decking in the first section, did you do a video on that?
Question: In another deck video you used ring shank *nails* instead of screws to secure the deck boards... Which one do you think is best and why? (Pros/cons, etc.)
I don’t know if this will effect how the deck I’m planning to build will look 😅 but I love your boots! Please tell me where you got them, are they docs?
Not sure how I came across this video but it was very entertaining! Nothing like being able to look back and admire your own work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great deck. Keep swinging those wedges. Key to lower scores is short game. Cheers!
with the 2nd part, would not have put that piece of lumber in yet at the other side so you can bump them in, and all cut at once at where you want it, then put that piece in. works a lot easier.
When you were cutting the ends of the deck boards off, i noticed the grain of the wood was all different - some bark side up, some bark side down. Isnt the best practice to do bark side down, crown? So they dont cup? So you put them "smiley face up"? About to do a deck. Would love your take.
Thanks for the tips about pool in deck, I am anxious to see the video about the pool rim. Did you have to treat the ends of the deck that cantilever? My client wants Trex. In California we can’t use wood decks or siding in high fire zones😢
Another great video Ms. April 👍
I really like the new intro and outro. Looks like the time in Hollywood paid off.
Beautiful result. Enough said
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, it has really helped me learn the knowledge, materials, and process to accomplish the projects I want around my homestead. Another quick question, I have an artificial knee, and it really hurts to kneel down on it, even with most knee pads. That knee pad you wear looks very comfortable, could you please let me know what brand and model it is, so I can get one to try? Thx!
They are Toughbuilt Knee Pads and work great! I'm glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video!
I do have a question. That Redwood cider for your decking boards is NOT pressure treated? I know regular pine pressured treat wood dose SRINK as it dries out leaving a bigger gap between decking boards then you may have wanted which would affect the not staggering seam that you did on your deck. Peace
This was a great series to watch come together! You guys rocked it out🤙🏾💯
Stay tuned, there's more! Thanks for watching.
When in doubt improvise. Always been my motto.
great tips! and i love your new intro/outro ! keep up the nice work!
Thanks!
🤗THANKS APRIL …thru all the years I was doing decks…board shrinkage was always a problem 🤔do you think it will be a problem these days 🤷♂️💚💚💚
What about the cracks I saw in some boards? Would it be better to pre drill the boards so they would not crack out when installing the screws? Otherwise nice job!
You could build a jig to help withe screw hole alignment. One edge butts against the joist edge and piece of wood screwed on top of it. The edge of the screwed in piece of top runs halfway along the top of the joist. Mark on this piece of wood the location of the middle of the plank of wood. This gives you a visual reference where to put the second screw and it is lined up against the first. You could also 3d printed this and extend the top of wood sideways so you have a hole, this will keep your drill straight and aligned better
I have flipped over my ten-year-old pressure-treated boards and am starting again with the non stained side up and now need to know if I should put a 1/8 gap in between all the boards before I screw them down. I've heard that I should do that to allow for movement. The trouble is I don't want to put a space between because those gaps tend to fill up with all of the tree stuff that's surrounding the deck. Is it necessary to put the 1/8 Gap between the boards? Thank you so much for your advice.
You are a badass! Thanks for all of the awesome tips. Deck looks beautiful.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Texas ambassador!
You always do great work! Love that design!!
Thanks! I just love it too! Thanks for watching.
I like western red cedar also
Back in 75' I work at a sawmill in Goldbar, wa. that cut cedar only and remember also the pleasant fragrance that place had it is now shutdown 😢 As a logger I cut into cedar windfalls that had been on the ground for 100 years that were perfectly preserved
Awesome! Thanks for Sharing that and for watching.
I totally agree with the stainless steel screws, cost more but you never have to replace them unlike the crap deck screws you get nowadays...been there done that!
I missed you putting what looks like some heavy mil plastic at one end before you put the boards down. Erosion control? Where there's a walkout door underneath going to another level I've put corrogated sheet metal underneath with a slight pitch. With a trough or gutter the water could be drained to one end or the other. Closed in with plexiglass panels for sliding windows, 4 seasons tile on the concrete slab and that's where hot tubbing happens all year round.
But even the metal alone will keep it drier. In the case where somebody lets a pet out there instead of letting them outside through the front it will protect the poor innocent enjoying coffee sitting on the freshly refinished set of cedar furniture and cushions after somebody's daughter did a bad paint job with interior latex the previous year.
The craziest variation was at a buddy's place I put up rope lights where when it rains on the above deck where there's no roof it looks like a neat water feature with lit up streams hitting the river rock.
Now down to serious issues. How far is your drive off the tee?🏌♀⛳👍
I'm in Australia where a WRC deck would be ridiculously expensive but even if money was no object I would have thought cedar is too soft for decking boards? I've got lots of cedar weather boards and joinery so have some experience working with it.
Down here most decks are built with 90mm * 19mm (3 1/2"*3/4") or 135mm*25mm Merbau, Spotted Gum, or Iron Bark. They're all durable hardwoods which must be predrilled with a countersink bit. I was surprised by no pre drilling so thought maybe that's a thing with cedar?
So I'm curious...why didn't you use the Camo SS Edge decking screw to hide the screws and keep moisture out of the fastener hole? And why only rain gutter that small section of decking vs make all of it dry underneath?
I had TWO different composite decking installations...the last being an Alcoa brand that fell apart. After all that I was coerced into pvc...and I am glad that I was. We used the rabbeted material and the 45 degree fastener with stainless screws. Edges had screws and plugs. I find the pvc head and shoulders above PT. When the sun gets to PT it just gets ugly. My pvc deck honestly looks as good 5 years later as it did on day 1. PT just won't do that no matter what you coat it with.
Beautiful deck 🙏👍
this looks awsome. im doing a deck now, this morning ill be laying deck boards. i was shocked to see you say red cedar. how beautiful that is gonna be!!! those are some pricey deck boards tho lol
Holy cow that's a big deck. I never built a deck before and just finished a small walkway deck for the 1st time. Used oil stain. I imagine if I planned I could do a bigger deck.
April, you're a legend mate.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for another helpful video . What kind of knee pads are those? I have a hard time keeping my knee pads up, really like the straps on those . Thanks !
They are by Toughbuilt. They are great knee pads. Thanks for watching.
When you sistered the cedar board to the 2x to make the seam, how did you make sure the deck boards on both sides of the seam had enough 2x to get screwed down?
Sister on each side I’m guessing.
mmmhmm a lil gymnastics there!! goes well with your blackbelt in 'April's Artistic Arts' haha yeas!!
Nice video as usual. Curious about follow up to your video awhile back where you were going to explore starting laser CNC business. Did you decide not to finish that series? Thanks
Great video. April, I do have a question; I noticed you have a knee brace/pad on your left knee. Where did you get that and how padded is it? I only ask because I have had a knee replacement. Keep up the great work. God Bless.
It's knee pads by Toughbuilt and they are great! Thanks for watching.
5:12 that flip was popular with the most replayed part of the video.
more flips with the milestone dances would be so awesome.
It had been 22 years since I had done that type of flip so was a little rusty, but thanks!
The seam is a nice touch. I will use that. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
So do you prefer western cedar over a non-wood product like trex? Would love your thoughts on that.
Those knee pads! Where, what, how much? They look very comfortable.
Really nice job folks.
real nice build. simple, intelligent, attractive. Love the long decking and the seam.. and of course the WRC. video really well done too.. good flow, well shot. educational but dosnt drag. I didnt fast forward anything.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.