Honestly your videos are awesome, I have 7 typewriters. 6 of them I have them done by a professionals. But I scored a free Remington quiet-riter and did this myself, I bought everything that I saw in your video, but i was still to afraid to use the lacquer thinner that you use, but I used the mineral sprits and it got the typewriter up and running, and never had problems again since the girl who gave it to me said, her family left it out in a shed. I could tell you it was messed up, but now it’s is running smooth for the past month and a half after I did it. Keep it up you make great videos. Thank you for posting them .
I have a L.C Smith-Corona super speed. I picked it up at an antique barn for $10, It works, there is a certain spot in the margin where it is a little messed up. All I had to do to get it to work was align the ribbon. Pretty nice for a 1940s $10 typewriter
A W going from ugly to pretty in degrees is always pleasing to the eye-like in the movie Christine where she pulls out all her dents and looks look he a new car again to “Harlem Nocturne” by the Viscounts. Like Christine, this version of Harlem Nocturne was also made in 1958.
I started steam cleaning these and it works really well. You just have to dry it out quickly when done. I use an air compressor to do this and then flush with nutrol and blow that out as well. Critical areas such as escapement and carriage bearings i use a high quality sewing machine oil. They work like new after this. Just make sure you get ALL THE WATER OUT QUICKLY so it dont rust.
I recently bought an Underwood typewriter machine from 1929 in a garage sale for $20. It needs cleaning and a little repair, but this thing looks like a gem
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! I have 3 typewriters I need to restore and all 3 have typebar issues that I’m certain this will fix (fingers crossed). The oldest of them has an issue with the carriage though. Just found your channel. Hopefully I’ll find what I need here
jason archer for some reason, most or all Underwood typewriters I have bought needed some kind of maintenance care. But once out in tune, they are very dependable machines-especially the big manual uprights and even their big electrics.
jason archer some Underwoods will just need a touch here and there. But some of my best ones were froze up so bad I raised them from the dead and got ‘em back in service again. BTW my high school research paper I used a 1953 Underwood upright I found outside of a flea market dumpster. Brought it home, added parts from my junk pile and used the machine to type a paper that earned me an A in two classes.
Your typewriter with rust and dirt need what we call a chemical Bath , it contains proper mix of liquid to remover rust and dirt ( Magnasol and cyanade mix ) All cover et rubber , plastic parts have to be removed then it as to soak for at least 15-20 minutes in that solution. The most important is the segment slot have to be cleaned with a tool call segment pick . otherwise dirt will be accumulate deep inside those slot and come hard to remove after many year and cause jammed of your type bar causing bad impression . about oil it goes only inside the slot just a little drop otherwise oil coating catch all the dust every where . It the same processing for all mark of Typewriter. André Benson Royal Typewriter Technician Hartford Connecticut 1970-1980 ....Sorry for my poor English writing im French Canadian .
Could the platen be removed before cleaning to make sure no lacquer or oil gets accidently sprayed onto it when blowing the segment out with compressed air?
I was in the typewriter business most of my adult life. What works best is something call a segment pick. It will get out the buildup caused by eraser, and other debris that gets in the type bar slots. I don't know where you can get one now since time have changed. Or you can take an old type bar from a junk machine and clean it up to use. Type bars come out of the typewriter by removing a segment ring. The segment ring runs thru the end of all the type bars.
1st thing I learned was rebuilding IBM B, C, D models in the '70's, we called removing the fulcrum and type bars, "dropping the segment" , did 1000 of those I think. I have more than a few Ames segment picks, they have been a versatile typewriter tool indeed. Old gummy sticky oil is the primary trouble nowadays, as to be expected 70 yrs later.
I have an underwood champion, I recently took off the case to fix the ribbon lift, and didn't need to remove anything except for all the case parts, and then I reached in and put a screw in where one was missing. But I had jimmied the space bar up, so I had to set it back to its correct positioning. But now, without explanation, the D key is way harder to press than the other keys, and I usually use the lightest of the five key tension settings. Everything is pretty clean, oiled, and there are no visible signs of the key mechanism for the the letter brushing against anything, from what I can see. When pressed, it will go all the way, and hit the platin, but will only sink between 1/10th and 3/4ths of the way back, before getting stuck. Sometimes it obstructs the way for the two neighboring keys, if it sinks less far, which is irritating enough in itself, but with the added effort required (it is quite significant), and the fact that it just isn working correct, and that it won't rest back with the other keys like it's supposed to, really really bugs me. Any idea what I should do? I could take it to a repair shop in the next town, but the diagnosis is $40, and then the repair onto that just isn't justifiable for me, since I don't exactly have lots of cash to throw around.
Just need to trouble shoot the whole linkage & see if something a rubbing. Check for bent linkages beneath the typebars. Make sure segment is clean, smallest debris can impede smooth operations.
Even with the case off, it's very tricky to look around inside this machine, I couldn't find any clear signs of bent parts, rubbing things, etc, I'm going to try taking off the case again in a bit and seeing if that changes anything. If could be that putting the case back on caused some kind of troubles wasn't aware of. I'll just have to see what I can figure out I guess.
Thank you for your videos. I bought a 1950's Smith-Corona yesterday that needs a good cleaning. I'm wondering if I could use Kerosene instead of lacquer thinner? I clean dried up oil and grease from vintage sewing machines using Kerosene. I work outside, and it dries fast in fresh air. This is how Singer recommended cleaning the gunk from cast iron machines (if really bad, they would dunk the entire machine into a bath of kerosene, as well as run the machine for a while to let it run through all the insides, before replacing with fresh oil). I believe that using Kerosene is also compatible with any lubricating oil you add later (I think I read that using alcohol to clean doesn't leave a surface that oil likes as much).
Hi I have a 30-year-old typewriter which is filled with dust and keys are not going back, so how should i go about basic cleaning? Using a toothbrush? And also can i use some liquid like rubbing alcohol or something,. Please suggest.
I never used a toothbrush so I don't know, never used rubbing alcohol so I don't know Video shows how I do segment, this applies to lot of areas, Simple green is my soap, cleaning is different for different areas and machines, too much to try to explain thru words . . .
Greetings Phoenix Typewriter, I just got an Adler Universal 20 typewriter from west Germany. I’m having the same problem as yours. I saw you used a cleaning liquid, but on the video, I didn’t listen well to it’s name. Could you tell me what type of cleaning liquid you’re using. Also, do I have to use a brush of that size ? By the way, I loved your video, thanks for it cause now I know how to do a well cleaning of this historical masterpiece.
Hi. I'm here looking for some help remuving an Hermes Baby 1948 platen. I can't take off the left side knob. Do I need to turn it clockwise? Do I need to unscrew the screw at the centre of the knob? Thanks. Pasquale
Hi! I got my first typewriter, my grandma has it stashed in a closet for years. It’s a Royal, it’s in perfect condition in the case with a plastic covering. When I first opened it I noticed oil of some sort on the inside of the bag, when you hit the keys they stay right up to the ribbon. I guess they are all dirty and gunky. I live in Dallas and I can’t find a place to service it but I found your video here. I think I’m going to try doing what you have demonstrated. Can you recommend where I can buy the brushes like you used?
My primary long stiff brush came from Ames Co, supplier of typewriter tools/services. They went out of business 10 yrs ago, my 2 brushes (back up) I have had and been using for 20 yrs. I have no current source, try craft hobby & automotive stores ect. Texas Typewriter Shops, Texas Duncan-Munoz Office Machines, 818 Wagon Trail #11, Austin, TX 78758. Phone 512-451-5206, fax 512-451-5866. "We have been in business since 1948. We repair all typewriters, manual, electric and electronic. We still re-furbish I.B.M. Selectric t/ws. We also repair, sell & supply: cash registers, faxes, printers, shredders, calculators, laminators, P-touch, etc. etc." --owner Steve Munoz, steve.munoz87@yahoo.com. Here's an interview with Mr. Munoz. Electronic Office Machines Company, 7870 College Street, Suite B, Beaumont, TX 77707. 409-832-6466, eomtexas@aol.com. "I am still repairing Typewriters. I worked for SCM Corporation (Smith Corona Marchant) 14 years, and as an independent dealer since 1975. Since 75 I have worked on the IBM Selectric and Wheelwriters." Ellis Typewriter Repair, 9525 Skillman St., Dallas, TX 75243. (972) 682-9560. Read a story about owner Ed Ellis. Grassoft Digital Services, El Paso, TX. (915) 526-5022 or 539-5012. "We are proud to be one of the few remaining in repairing office typewriter equipment in El Paso County and surrounding areas. Our people are specialized in repairing and restoring both manual and electronic typewriters." Manuel Licon, Jr., L & M Business Machines, 4737 Tumbleweed Ave., El Paso, TX 79924. 915-757-2101. Mr. Licon's son writes, "He has done this kind of work since he graduated from high school in 1961. He can work on any typewriter from the very oldest to the newest. A real pro." Ray Abel, Sr. and Ray Abel, Jr., Abel Office Machines, PO Box 330471, Ft. Worth, TX 76163. 817-926-2235. A happy customer writes, "They cleaned and painted my dad's 1931 Royal model P. Most recently they cleaned up an eBay purchase that was damaged in shipping. Ray Jr. attached the knob for me, aligned the rails, and cleaned the machine up very nicely, for $40." Another customer writes, "Mr. Abel Jr. does good work and is a pleasure to talk to. I had 1930's Remington with a snapped carriage lever, and he welded it back together and cleaned and polished the machine for a very reasonable price." Lavaca County Office Supply, 107 N. Main St., Hallettsville, TX 77964. Tel. 512-798-4364. An excellent typewriter repairman has been working here for thirty years. Don Spring, Affordable Typewriter Service, 10840 Seven L Trail, Helotes, TX 78023 (San Antonio area). Phone: (210) 222-8353. News story here. Universal Typewriter Shop, 4311 Dowling Street, Houston, TX 77003. (713) 529-6422. Owner: Edward "Smitty" Smith. A customer writes: "Mr. Smith is not in the best of health, but he has been working on IBM Selectrics for 40 years. He recently repaired two IBM Selectric II's for me at a very reasonable price." Read a story about this shop here and another here. See a video here. ECS, 507 East Frank, Lufkin, TX 75901. Phone 936-634-0732. "Been repairing typewriters since 1977, still doing it." --Johnny Ellington. Innovative Office Systems, Lufkin, TX. 936-633-6550. Repairs IBM models. Bryant's Antique Players, 4819 Stallcup Dr., Mesquite, TX 75150. Phone 972-270-0135. Don Bryant, aplayr@sbcglobal.net. "I was in office machine repair from 1956 to about 1975. I was well trained on all US makes except Smith 400 and Olivetti Praxis. I know the IBM Ex and Selectric well. I am now in the Player Piano business." Paul Daniel, American Typewriter & Equipment, 10846 Vandale St., San Antonio, TX 78216. Phone 210-349-9026, fax 210-349-9036, americantypewriter@sbcglobal.net. Consolidated Office Systems / Lodde Typewriter Co., 840 W Rhapsody Dr, San Antonio, TX 78216, (210) 377-3500. Monico Villalpando, Jr., Southern Office Solutions, 11834 Meadow Crest Dr., Stafford, TX 77477. Mobile: (713) 471-3800. Office: (713) 225-5767. See a story about Mr. Villalpando here.
I used most of this method (not the lubricant at the end), and it worked really well for me. I got the typebars to work like new again, but after an hour, they were completely stuck again, is it because I didn't follow up with a lubricant or could there be another reason? If the former, where can this oil be purchased? Thank you!
Reflush it again, some need to be done 2x sometimes 3x. I too will usually leave them sit for a while & retry. The old oils just weren't flushed out completely yet. That oil that I used is super lightweight and is mostly to give the metal a little shine. Spray oil is MG Chemicals # 401B
This was great to watch and you explain what your doing very well. Thank you :-) This helps in a big way. By the way, where do you get the oil/cleaner from?
Oil = Red Marvel Mystery Oil found @ any automotive shop Lacquer Thinner = Home Depo or Walmart Spray = MG Chemicals # 401B found a Frys electronics or Ebay
Great Video! I have a question, after cleaning, near the end of the video, the third typewriter bar from the right end is not resting down like the remainder of the typewriter bars. I have this same issue with my Smith-Corona 'STERLING" portable typewriter....if I push the type bar down to full rest position finger tip, it springs back up to where it rested before, as a soon as I remove my finger tip. Any suggestions?
Audrey Dixon thanks Audrey! I needed that info. I subscribed ages ago to that channel (you linked) as well but when you are in the TH-cam vortex you can spend a lot of time looking for what you need and get distracted. Cheers! 😊☕️
Answer to why ink smears on paper . . . . . Ribbon is not in properly or lift is too close to platen or ribbon has too much ink or ribbon has unnatural uneven-ness or paper is not flat on platen roller or ribbon is too loose. I would have to see it to determine what's exactly happening.
I couldn't tell you cause I don't know if they are sticking or binding or how they are hanging up...... Eliminate any possibility of sticky parts, then check for binds, then check for bent linkages
I have a hermes baby and the letters 'e' and 'a' are dirty. They are "filled" when I type. I'm new at this so i don't know the brands and stuff. Does anybody know what brands the thinner and the spray used on this video are? Thanks!
You can pick the heavy chunks of ink from the E and A with a sharp pointy thing, like a needle Lacquer thinner and MG401 spray cleaner were used in video, SOP for me . . . . .
In sparing amounts, what about using 3-in-1 Lock Dry Lube? It's are-sol with a small tube, no water, no gunk, and used for such things as ball-bearings. Anti-corrosive, also.
Of course ... I'm going to vacuum it, steel brush if needed, soft brushes, vacuum again, blow it out, and if anything needs some corrosion care or a little lubrication I'll use a tiny bit of the 3-in-1 Lock dry and work the mechanism a few times before a final wipe and air blow. I guess I really don't need a lubricant because (I just bought off eBay) it's a very good condition Smith-Corona Corsair Deluxe portable ... if I need to use anything I thought the dry lubricant spray would be best. From the product site: Aerosol formula penetrates quickly and deeply to loosen stuck locks Leaves long-lasting, corrosion protection film Clear, Quick-Dry Formula, Won't Attract Dirt Safe to Use on Metal, Wood and Most Plastics* *Except clear polycarbonate and polystyrene. and Dry lubricants or solid lubricants are materials that, despite being in the solid phase, are able to reduce friction between two surfaces sliding against each other without the need for a liquid oil medium. The two main dry lubricants are graphite and molybdenum disulfide. They offer lubrication at temperatures higher than liquid and oil-based lubricants operate. Dry lubricants are often used in applications such as locks or dry lubricated bearings. Sounds like a winner (?). No teflon, but no rusting properties, meant for repeat moving parts, hydrophobic, and repel dust/dirt. Was looking for regular 3-in-1 but didn't have it at Home Depot. Thought I'd take a chance. I hear portables don't need lubrication, but if there is any rust or sticky-ness, a tiny shot of this might be a good fix. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Generally yes, as long as it doesn't have a rubber power-roller under the basket driving the keys. Most portable have a metal flute shaft. Smith Corona electric have nothing under basket just like the manuals.
Power rollers look just like a platen roller but is on the bottom side, if that gets contaminated it will ruin the roller. If the 550 has a power roller anyways it's probably bad from age & won't strike characters/typebars properly.
Phoenix Typewriter not the electronic jobs. Smith-Corona portable older electrics from about 1956 to sometime in the 1980s employed fluted shafts. The big 400 and 410 series of the 1960s used rubber power rollers.
I found these in a local hardware store, and later through Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZRQOAY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has an almost needle-sized tip that allows you to get small amounts of liquids (including solvents) in tight spaces. Thus far no chemical has melted through the plastic, but caveat emptor...
Lacquer thinner in bottle to clean, light cleaned lube in can is www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-401B-340G-Nutrol-Control-Cleaner-340g-12-Oz-Aerosol-Can/251912832391?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
As long as I know, the mechanism can be broken. There's a wheel with a spring (like the ones used in watches but bigger) that uses a cable to pull de carriage as you write. This cable uses to broke or disconnect.
Do not ever oil type bars!!!!!!!! If there is a single droplet of oil on type bars, dust will settle on them immediately and will cause damage/ slow down the mechanism.
Trust me I know all about oil vs dust/dirt, there is NOT 1 drop of oil left after I air sprayed the segment , the spray I use only has 1% lubricating oils. Guarantee that segment is not going to be attracting dirt.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136i wonder how a graphite or dry moly lube would work for that. doesn’t attract any dust because it’s dry but keeps everything slick.
@@zacdenning79 Might be fine, only way to know is to try it and check on it 10 yrs later I have been using that cleaner that has less than 5% oil for 40yrs, not only is it thin, I blow off all the excess I have seen many of units that I cleaned decades earlier that were still tip-top
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Honestly your videos are awesome, I have 7 typewriters. 6 of them I have them done by a professionals. But I scored a free Remington quiet-riter and did this myself, I bought everything that I saw in your video, but i was still to afraid to use the lacquer thinner that you use, but I used the mineral sprits and it got the typewriter up and running, and never had problems again since the girl who gave it to me said, her family left it out in a shed. I could tell you it was messed up, but now it’s is running smooth for the past month and a half after I did it. Keep it up you make great videos.
Thank you for posting them .
I have a L.C Smith-Corona super speed. I picked it up at an antique barn for $10, It works, there is a certain spot in the margin where it is a little messed up. All I had to do to get it to work was align the ribbon. Pretty nice for a 1940s $10 typewriter
i dont know why this was soothing to the eye to watch.
A W going from ugly to pretty in degrees is always pleasing to the eye-like in the movie Christine where she pulls out all her dents and looks look he a new car again to “Harlem Nocturne” by the Viscounts. Like Christine, this version of Harlem Nocturne was also made in 1958.
J'aurai aimé avoir une explication en français.
Facts.
I started steam cleaning these and it works really well. You just have to dry it out quickly when done. I use an air compressor to do this and then flush with nutrol and blow that out as well. Critical areas such as escapement and carriage bearings i use a high quality sewing machine oil. They work like new after this. Just make sure you get ALL THE WATER OUT QUICKLY so it dont rust.
thank you, I "saved" my Rooy typewriter with your cleaning tech:mineral spirit, worked well !
That was a great video and super good of you to share a technique like this for all.
Absolutely.
I recently bought an Underwood typewriter machine from 1929 in a garage sale for $20. It needs cleaning and a little repair, but this thing looks like a gem
Thank you! I cleaned up two Doras. They are working good now. They had very sticky keys.
This was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
I have 3 typewriters I need to restore and all 3 have typebar issues that I’m certain this will fix (fingers crossed). The oldest of them has an issue with the carriage though. Just found your channel. Hopefully I’ll find what I need here
I just picked up an old underwood from an antique shop. Thanks for the content. It really helped me get the thing working.
jason archer for some reason, most or all Underwood typewriters I have bought needed some kind of maintenance care. But once out in tune, they are very dependable machines-especially the big manual uprights and even their big electrics.
John Tapp mine has worked beautifully after a little TLC. i use it to make my kid's math homework.
jason archer some Underwoods will just need a touch here and there. But some of my best ones were froze up so bad I raised them from the dead and got ‘em back in service again. BTW my high school research paper I used a 1953 Underwood upright I found outside of a flea market dumpster. Brought it home, added parts from my junk pile and used the machine to type a paper that earned me an A in two classes.
For a restoration job, what would you do exactly for rust and corrosion on other parts as well as restoring paint?
Your typewriter with rust and dirt need what we call a chemical Bath , it contains proper mix of liquid to remover rust and dirt ( Magnasol and cyanade mix ) All cover et rubber , plastic parts have to be removed then it as to soak for at least 15-20 minutes in that solution. The most important is the segment slot have to be cleaned with a tool call segment pick . otherwise dirt will be accumulate deep inside those slot and come hard to remove after many year and cause jammed of your type bar causing bad impression . about oil it goes only inside the slot just a little drop otherwise oil coating catch all the dust every where . It the same processing for all mark of Typewriter. André Benson Royal Typewriter Technician Hartford Connecticut 1970-1980 ....Sorry for my poor English writing im French Canadian .
Could the platen be removed before cleaning to make sure no lacquer or oil gets accidently sprayed onto it when blowing the segment out with compressed air?
I was in the typewriter business most of my adult life. What works best is something call a segment pick. It will get out the buildup caused by eraser, and other debris that gets in the type bar slots. I don't know where you can get one now since time have changed. Or you can take an old type bar from a junk machine and clean it up to use. Type bars come out of the typewriter by removing a segment ring. The segment ring runs thru the end of all the type bars.
1st thing I learned was rebuilding IBM B, C, D models in the '70's, we called removing the fulcrum and type bars, "dropping the segment" , did 1000 of those I think. I have more than a few Ames segment picks, they have been a versatile typewriter tool indeed. Old gummy sticky oil is the primary trouble nowadays, as to be expected 70 yrs later.
I have an underwood champion, I recently took off the case to fix the ribbon lift, and didn't need to remove anything except for all the case parts, and then I reached in and put a screw in where one was missing. But I had jimmied the space bar up, so I had to set it back to its correct positioning. But now, without explanation, the D key is way harder to press than the other keys, and I usually use the lightest of the five key tension settings. Everything is pretty clean, oiled, and there are no visible signs of the key mechanism for the the letter brushing against anything, from what I can see. When pressed, it will go all the way, and hit the platin, but will only sink between 1/10th and 3/4ths of the way back, before getting stuck. Sometimes it obstructs the way for the two neighboring keys, if it sinks less far, which is irritating enough in itself, but with the added effort required (it is quite significant), and the fact that it just isn working correct, and that it won't rest back with the other keys like it's supposed to, really really bugs me. Any idea what I should do? I could take it to a repair shop in the next town, but the diagnosis is $40, and then the repair onto that just isn't justifiable for me, since I don't exactly have lots of cash to throw around.
Just need to trouble shoot the whole linkage & see if something a rubbing. Check for bent linkages beneath the typebars. Make sure segment is clean, smallest debris can impede smooth operations.
Even with the case off, it's very tricky to look around inside this machine, I couldn't find any clear signs of bent parts, rubbing things, etc, I'm going to try taking off the case again in a bit and seeing if that changes anything. If could be that putting the case back on caused some kind of troubles wasn't aware of. I'll just have to see what I can figure out I guess.
💖Love your channel and subscribed. Thank you for the very helpful videos, Duane, and take good care of yourself. 🙏🍀🌷
Thank you for your videos. I bought a 1950's Smith-Corona yesterday that needs a good cleaning. I'm wondering if I could use Kerosene instead of lacquer thinner? I clean dried up oil and grease from vintage sewing machines using Kerosene. I work outside, and it dries fast in fresh air. This is how Singer recommended cleaning the gunk from cast iron machines (if really bad, they would dunk the entire machine into a bath of kerosene, as well as run the machine for a while to let it run through all the insides, before replacing with fresh oil). I believe that using Kerosene is also compatible with any lubricating oil you add later (I think I read that using alcohol to clean doesn't leave a surface that oil likes as much).
I've used a lot of chemicals, but never kerosene.
So I have no 1st hand experience, but have heard of successful results with kerosene
The old Corona manual from 1915 suggests gasoline. Work outside they say..
Hi I have a 30-year-old typewriter which is filled with dust and keys are not going back, so how should i go about basic cleaning? Using a toothbrush? And also can i use some liquid like rubbing alcohol or something,. Please suggest.
I never used a toothbrush so I don't know, never used rubbing alcohol so I don't know
Video shows how I do segment, this applies to lot of areas,
Simple green is my soap, cleaning is different for different areas and machines, too much to try to explain thru words . . .
Greetings Phoenix Typewriter, I just got an Adler Universal 20 typewriter from west Germany. I’m having the same problem as yours. I saw you used a cleaning liquid, but on the video, I didn’t listen well to it’s name. Could you tell me what type of cleaning liquid you’re using. Also, do I have to use a brush of that size ? By the way, I loved your video, thanks for it cause now I know how to do a well cleaning of this historical masterpiece.
Primary cleaning/degreaser is lacquer thinner, brush size doesn't matter, but stiffer is better
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 Thanks a lot buddy, please keep making this wonderful videos of yours. I already suscribed.
Hi. I'm here looking for some help remuving an Hermes Baby 1948 platen. I can't take off the left side knob. Do I need to turn it clockwise? Do I need to unscrew the screw at the centre of the knob? Thanks.
Pasquale
Hi! I got my first typewriter, my grandma has it stashed in a closet for years. It’s a Royal, it’s in perfect condition in the case with a plastic covering. When I first opened it I noticed oil of some sort on the inside of the bag, when you hit the keys they stay right up to the ribbon. I guess they are all dirty and gunky. I live in Dallas and I can’t find a place to service it but I found your video here. I think I’m going to try doing what you have demonstrated. Can you recommend where I can buy the brushes like you used?
My primary long stiff brush came from Ames Co, supplier of typewriter tools/services. They went out of business 10 yrs ago, my 2 brushes (back up) I have had and been using for 20 yrs. I have no current source, try craft hobby & automotive stores ect.
Texas Typewriter Shops, Texas
Duncan-Munoz Office Machines, 818 Wagon Trail #11, Austin, TX 78758. Phone 512-451-5206, fax 512-451-5866. "We have been in business since 1948. We repair all typewriters, manual, electric and electronic. We still re-furbish I.B.M. Selectric t/ws. We also repair, sell & supply: cash registers, faxes, printers, shredders, calculators, laminators, P-touch, etc. etc." --owner Steve Munoz, steve.munoz87@yahoo.com. Here's an interview with Mr. Munoz.
Electronic Office Machines Company, 7870 College Street, Suite B, Beaumont, TX 77707. 409-832-6466, eomtexas@aol.com. "I am still repairing Typewriters. I worked for SCM Corporation (Smith Corona Marchant) 14 years, and as an independent dealer since 1975. Since 75 I have worked on the IBM Selectric and Wheelwriters."
Ellis Typewriter Repair, 9525 Skillman St., Dallas, TX 75243. (972) 682-9560. Read a story about owner Ed Ellis.
Grassoft Digital Services, El Paso, TX. (915) 526-5022 or 539-5012. "We are proud to be one of the few remaining in repairing office typewriter equipment in El Paso County and surrounding areas. Our people are specialized in repairing and restoring both manual and electronic typewriters."
Manuel Licon, Jr., L & M Business Machines, 4737 Tumbleweed Ave., El Paso, TX 79924. 915-757-2101. Mr. Licon's son writes, "He has done this kind of work since he graduated from high school in 1961. He can work on any typewriter from the very oldest to the newest. A real pro."
Ray Abel, Sr. and Ray Abel, Jr., Abel Office Machines, PO Box 330471, Ft. Worth, TX 76163. 817-926-2235. A happy customer writes, "They cleaned and painted my dad's 1931 Royal model P. Most recently they cleaned up an eBay purchase that was damaged in shipping. Ray Jr. attached the knob for me, aligned the rails, and cleaned the machine up very nicely, for $40." Another customer writes, "Mr. Abel Jr. does good work and is a pleasure to talk to. I had 1930's Remington with a snapped carriage lever, and he welded it back together and cleaned and polished the machine for a very reasonable price."
Lavaca County Office Supply, 107 N. Main St., Hallettsville, TX 77964. Tel. 512-798-4364. An excellent typewriter repairman has been working here for thirty years.
Don Spring, Affordable Typewriter Service, 10840 Seven L Trail, Helotes, TX 78023 (San Antonio area). Phone: (210) 222-8353. News story here.
Universal Typewriter Shop, 4311 Dowling Street, Houston, TX 77003. (713) 529-6422. Owner: Edward "Smitty" Smith. A customer writes: "Mr. Smith is not in the best of health, but he has been working on IBM Selectrics for 40 years. He recently repaired two IBM Selectric II's for me at a very reasonable price." Read a story about this shop here and another here. See a video here.
ECS, 507 East Frank, Lufkin, TX 75901. Phone 936-634-0732. "Been repairing typewriters since 1977, still doing it." --Johnny Ellington.
Innovative Office Systems, Lufkin, TX. 936-633-6550. Repairs IBM models.
Bryant's Antique Players, 4819 Stallcup Dr., Mesquite, TX 75150. Phone 972-270-0135. Don Bryant, aplayr@sbcglobal.net. "I was in office machine repair from 1956 to about 1975. I was well trained on all US makes except Smith 400 and Olivetti Praxis. I know the IBM Ex and Selectric well. I am now in the Player Piano business."
Paul Daniel, American Typewriter & Equipment, 10846 Vandale St., San Antonio, TX 78216. Phone 210-349-9026, fax 210-349-9036, americantypewriter@sbcglobal.net.
Consolidated Office Systems / Lodde Typewriter Co., 840 W Rhapsody Dr, San Antonio, TX 78216, (210) 377-3500.
Monico Villalpando, Jr., Southern Office Solutions, 11834 Meadow Crest Dr., Stafford, TX 77477. Mobile: (713) 471-3800. Office: (713) 225-5767. See a story about Mr. Villalpando here.
Phoenix Typewriter thank you so much! I appreciate your kindness and information.
I used most of this method (not the lubricant at the end), and it worked really well for me. I got the typebars to work like new again, but after an hour, they were completely stuck again, is it because I didn't follow up with a lubricant or could there be another reason? If the former, where can this oil be purchased? Thank you!
Reflush it again, some need to be done 2x sometimes 3x. I too will usually leave them sit for a while & retry. The old oils just weren't flushed out completely yet. That oil that I used is super lightweight and is mostly to give the metal a little shine. Spray oil is MG Chemicals # 401B
Phoenix Typewriter great, thank you for the quick reply. I'll continue to flush it two or three more times and see what happens!
Phoenix Typewriter great, thank you for the quick reply. I'll continue to flush it two or three more times and see what happens!
For a machine not so dirty but still stuck with a few keys-- would using just the MG Nu-trol cleaner, and not lacquer thinner, and a brush work okay?
Can't hurt to try, gonna depend on the nature of the gunk to be cleaned.....
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 I'll give it a try, thanks
Love your stuff.
I haven't worked on a Hermes yet, looks like a nice machine.
This was great to watch and you explain what your doing very well. Thank you :-) This helps in a big way. By the way, where do you get the oil/cleaner from?
Oil = Red Marvel Mystery Oil found @ any automotive shop
Lacquer Thinner = Home Depo or Walmart
Spray = MG Chemicals # 401B found a Frys electronics or Ebay
Great Video! I have a question, after cleaning, near the end of the video, the third typewriter bar from the right end is not resting down like the remainder of the typewriter bars. I have this same issue with my Smith-Corona 'STERLING" portable typewriter....if I push the type bar down to full rest position finger tip, it springs back up to where it rested before, as a soon as I remove my finger tip. Any suggestions?
th-cam.com/video/oyRXJNYOegs/w-d-xo.html
Audrey Dixon thanks Audrey! I needed that info. I subscribed ages ago to that channel (you linked) as well but when you are in the TH-cam vortex you can spend a lot of time looking for what you need and get distracted. Cheers! 😊☕️
Answer to why ink smears on paper . . . . .
Ribbon is not in properly or lift is too close to platen or ribbon has too much ink or ribbon has unnatural uneven-ness or paper is not flat on platen roller or ribbon is too loose. I would have to see it to determine what's exactly happening.
How do you fix hanging keys? (smith-cornoa Sterling). My 2 and 4 doesn't go all the way back up after being pressed.
I couldn't tell you cause I don't know if they are sticking or binding or how they are hanging up......
Eliminate any possibility of sticky parts, then check for binds, then check for bent linkages
Hello Duane, what type of air compressor are you using? Please advise. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! :)
Craftsman 3 gallon 150psi pancake style
I have a hermes baby and the letters 'e' and 'a' are dirty. They are "filled" when I type. I'm new at this so i don't know the brands and stuff. Does anybody know what brands the thinner and the spray used on this video are? Thanks!
You can pick the heavy chunks of ink from the E and A with a sharp pointy thing, like a needle
Lacquer thinner and MG401 spray cleaner were used in video, SOP for me . . . . .
Just read around on all the comments on all the ideas.
Nice
Can I just use rubbing alcohol in lieu of denatured alcohol?
I guess ? never done it, heard there was water in rubbing alcohol, probably not a good de-greaser.
In sparing amounts, what about using 3-in-1 Lock Dry Lube? It's are-sol with a small tube, no water, no gunk, and used for such things as ball-bearings. Anti-corrosive, also.
Don't know, never used it. Make sure you blow off any & all excess.
Of course ... I'm going to vacuum it, steel brush if needed, soft brushes, vacuum again, blow it out, and if anything needs some corrosion care or a little lubrication I'll use a tiny bit of the 3-in-1 Lock dry and work the mechanism a few times before a final wipe and air blow. I guess I really don't need a lubricant because (I just bought off eBay) it's a very good condition Smith-Corona Corsair Deluxe portable ... if I need to use anything I thought the dry lubricant spray would be best. From the product site:
Aerosol formula penetrates quickly and deeply to loosen stuck locks
Leaves long-lasting, corrosion protection film
Clear, Quick-Dry Formula, Won't Attract Dirt
Safe to Use on Metal, Wood and Most Plastics*
*Except clear polycarbonate and polystyrene.
and
Dry lubricants or solid lubricants are materials that, despite being in the solid phase, are able to reduce friction between two surfaces sliding against each other without the need for a liquid oil medium.
The two main dry lubricants are graphite and molybdenum disulfide. They offer lubrication at temperatures higher than liquid and oil-based lubricants operate. Dry lubricants are often used in applications such as locks or dry lubricated bearings.
Sounds like a winner (?). No teflon, but no rusting properties, meant for repeat moving parts, hydrophobic, and repel dust/dirt. Was looking for regular 3-in-1 but didn't have it at Home Depot. Thought I'd take a chance. I hear portables don't need lubrication, but if there is any rust or sticky-ness, a tiny shot of this might be a good fix. I'll let you know how it turns out.
P.S. The safe to use on most plastics was a point, too, as that typewriter has a plastic case. Just in case!
Can you use this technique on an electric typewriter also?
Generally yes, as long as it doesn't have a rubber power-roller under the basket driving the keys. Most portable have a metal flute shaft.
Smith Corona electric have nothing under basket just like the manuals.
Phoenix Typewriter, thank you for replying so quickly. It's a Royal 550 and I'm new to typewriters, so I don't know what specifically I'm looking for.
Power rollers look just like a platen roller but is on the bottom side, if that gets contaminated it will ruin the roller. If the 550 has a power roller anyways it's probably bad from age & won't strike characters/typebars properly.
Phoenix Typewriter not the electronic jobs. Smith-Corona portable older electrics from about 1956 to sometime in the 1980s employed fluted shafts. The big 400 and 410 series of the 1960s used rubber power rollers.
P FL these used power rollers. Royal electrics after about 1961 used them.
very helpful!!!
I recently saved one from the dump but it needs a major cleaning. It looks worse than this one.
Stephanie McCumber
How'd the typewriter turn out?
Hey, is zippo fuel ok yo clean?
Or white vinegar?
Well I don't know, never used any type fuel to clean with. I only use vinegar for corroded electronic PCB. Never used it on typewriter.
Ok. Thanks.
Actually I tried zipo lighter fuel yesterday and it worked well.
Tranny fluid is a detergent oil. Charcoal starter fluid is a mild solvent. Both are very good cleaners.
Left shift nit working what I can did sir
You can look around and see if anything is interfering with it, sticking, etc
I can't do much without being able to see typewriter up close in-person
I can't find a bottle anything like this anywhere. Does anyone know what its called or where to find it?
found something very similar if interested. www.jensentools.com/4-oz-bottle-long-reach-lube-all-dispensing-bottle-4-oz/p/125-093
I found these in a local hardware store, and later through Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZRQOAY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has an almost needle-sized tip that allows you to get small amounts of liquids (including solvents) in tight spaces. Thus far no chemical has melted through the plastic, but caveat emptor...
que producto usas para limpiar?
Lacquer thinner in bottle to clean, light cleaned lube in can is
www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-401B-340G-Nutrol-Control-Cleaner-340g-12-Oz-Aerosol-Can/251912832391?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Hello, I have a remington sperry performer typewriter, Carriage doesn't move when typing.. What I can do? thanks for your help
As long as I know, the mechanism can be broken. There's a wheel with a spring (like the ones used in watches but bigger) that uses a cable to pull de carriage as you write. This cable uses to broke or disconnect.
Oil name
Marvel Mystery Oil
www.grainger.com/product/1UET3?gucid=N:N:FPL:Free:GGL:CSM-1946:tew63h3:20501231
Do not ever oil type bars!!!!!!!! If there is a single droplet of oil on type bars, dust will settle on them immediately and will cause damage/ slow down the mechanism.
Trust me I know all about oil vs dust/dirt, there is NOT 1 drop of oil left after I air sprayed the segment , the spray I use only has 1% lubricating oils. Guarantee that segment is not going to be attracting dirt.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136i wonder how a graphite or dry moly lube would work for that. doesn’t attract any dust because it’s dry but keeps everything slick.
@@zacdenning79 Might be fine, only way to know is to try it and check on it 10 yrs later
I have been using that cleaner that has less than 5% oil for 40yrs, not only is it thin, I blow off all the excess
I have seen many of units that I cleaned decades earlier that were still tip-top
Carb cleaner-
Typing machine shi kha hoti hai plz give me ur Mobile no ya address
web site is in description above
99.99% ethyl alcohol will do ?!?
I don't know, you will have to do some trial & error testing
It dries out the metal and makes it susceptible to rust.
What happens if I use GUNK Carb Cleaner?
Never used GUNK so I wouldn't know