Yes, me too. Truly great documentary that almost anyone will enjoy. One doesn’t have to be into typewriters to appreciate that documentary about creativity, love, history, art, technology and enthusiasm for something.
As someone who has restored a few typewriters, I am firmly against using any kind of lubricant on the segment (the thing you refer to as the carriage), because over time lubricants attract debris and dust which only serves to gum things up faster. The majority of moving metal parts on a typewriter should be cleaned with lacquer thinner or similar solvent and not oiled. Very small amounts of lubricant are only used on the carriage rail bearings, escapement, etc... As a note, the carriage refers the thing that holds the paper that moves right to left when you type.
I understand. Though there are situations where a drop or two will greatly speed up you ability to get typing. Thank you so much for watching. Have a couple interesting ones coming soon.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Thanks for the reply and video too. That is a wonderful typewriter you restored. You mentioned Phoenix Typewriter in your video. Duane is an experienced typewriter repairman that has some tutorials on cleaning segments, platens, key slugs, freeing up sticky keys and none of them involve using oil. Anyway, I look forward to your upcoming videos. Thanks!
Yes that is true, as a old Adler Tech from the 70's there are 2 carriage screws also and carriage return spring which could be removed to get into the under belly for proper cleaning and adjustments. taking out the platen and rollers is easy and is a must for proper cleaning. Finally Adler is German you should have metric tools for proper adjustments
I have a 1972 Smith Corona Galaxie 12, and I dread to think of taking the shell completely off of it like this, sure I'd a good thing I don't need or plan on doing this any time soon, as mine is very very well maintained, however when it does need a nice clean, boy am I in for it.
A few thoughts: Ribbons: usually, you don't need any new ribbon when buying a used typewriter. Most ribbons are fine, only the section that has been sitting in the open for the last decades will be dry. Just manually "fast-forward" the ribbon for 6-10 turns of the spool, and you've got fresh, inked ribbon ready to go. Most typewriters have an automatic direction reversal once you hit the end of one spool and by the time you get back to the "dried-up" section, it will be good to go again. Hard platen: it's easy to strip the rubber off a hardened platen and recoat it with shrink tubes and a heat gun. There's a great tutorial on TH-cam from CreateX3. Feet: DON'T use felt feet. Use rubber feet. One of the main concerns of typists is that their typewriters begin to wander when used. That's why you have typing mats to keep your machine with its old hardened rubber feet in place. Get new rubber feet so you don't have to chase your machine while typing...
Thank you so much Rabbi Steve! Glad to be of service for you! In addition to the video several viewers have added so good tips as well! Thank you for watching!
Wow, found this video tonight. Planning on searching out my 2 ancient typewriters in my garage tomorrow and seeing if they still work. I just started watching the movie California Typewriters and really enjoying all the information and had to come back to your page and say “Thanks DC” for your video.
Victoria that’s awesome! You’re so welcome! Did you enjoy California Typewriter? Hope you found your Typers! If they need new ribbons, there’s always Amazon! Have a fantastic Day/Afternoon/or Evening! Type On!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera LOL, I still haven’t dug out the typewriters yet but I totally enjoyed the documentary. I did a bit of research and found where the owner of California Typewriter finally did close up shop March 2020 and sold the building, I really thought the one guy, Ken Alexander,would have taken over the business. Instead, he just went to work for a shop in Berkeley. Thanks again! I highly recommend the movie, it was very informative and interesting. Now I know how to clean up the one portable typewriter that I have from 1960’s. I have sought out & found the only typewriter repair here in Memphis,TN that is still open for business. I still have my picture where you wrote my name in the sand while we waited for sunset. That was so cool of you to do that for all of us. I’m an hour behind you, so you’re most likely asleep. My puppy woke me up wanting outside at 1:40am, I know I shouldn’t have picked my phone up, cause now I’m all smiles thinking about your awesome sunsets. I really miss that.
WoW! Thank you so much, you made my morning! Those were very fun times on the beach. I think about writing names in the sand often. It was my favorite part of my scopes. Thrilled that you have yours! There’s a man in Santa Monica at Reese’s Office Machines/Supply that has done all of my needed repairs. Though now I’m in NC I hope to visit him again soon. He’s amazing, reminds me of Geppetto right down to the leather suspenders/bib! Hope to share some more adventures soon. I’m building a skoolie for just such a purpose it’ll be rolling by March ‘23 😉@skoolie309 ! Have an AWESOME DAY!
Hi Victoria! So… After I read your comments I decided to make available all of the Periscope Livestreams that I had saved prior to Periscopes demise. If your interested the are in a playlist labeled ‘Periscope Livestreams’ hope this finds you having an amazing Saturday Night! Take care!
I just got a Remington streamliner II 1970 and the letters are not only rusty but have like guck hanging on like it’s really dirty so I might even have to do some deeper cleaning but this video helped so much to know the bits and pieces of the type writer so I can clean it! Thank you!!!
That's a wonderful machine you have. A small wire brush or heavy tooth brush with orderless mineral spirits will help on those Key's hammers as well. Very happy this has helped. Have a great day. :)
@Bill Ogle Any input on the use of oil on the segment? AFAIK, it's generally not advised to oil the segment because that's the first part that's gonna gunk up again, and then you'd have to clean the machine again and again and again.
@@mx5701 All moving parts require some lubrication but excessive oil is as bad as no oil, it was rubbers , or coverup tape (chalk) that caused most of the segment clogging, if you have or could make a segment pick you could pick out the segment every 3-4 months. If you get an half inch varnish brush, cut the bristles to a length of about half to three quarters of an inch, using a mixture of mineral turpentine (white spirit) with a dash of white, light stainless oil, you can scrub the type (slugs) and brush the segment with an upwards motion after you've picked it you will get all the gunk out, then lightly oil....you can make a pick out of an old type bar, royal bars were good because the had a long tail.......every moving part needs some oil but not too much.. search Ames Tools I'm sure you will find a segment pick there , it will give you an idea how to make it...let me know at any time if you think I can help
Great and professional skills video is the best I got an 1929 green royal tape writer that needs work ( cleaning) before to be listed on eBay. Your videos give me lots of ideas thank you
I've used your methods on my filthy BBQ grill, but I've seen lacquer thinner and compressed air as an alternative to degreasers and water when it comes to typewriters. I can't imagine using your technique on my beloved Olympia SM3. BTW, I'll bet that Purple spray bottle has a wide fan option on it FWIW.
Haha, well, you need to understand this was about as dirty as my rib smoker out back ;) 99/100 don’t need this treatment. However for the sake of getting all /or as much as possible nicotine off it was a necessary action. Actually felt the same way till I watched “California Typewriter” and saw him wheel a stack of writers down to the local car wash! I thought, “That’s how he does it!” Obviously, getting the water out is most important!
Great video! absolutely amazing to watch this kind of content and realize just how many of us typewriting enthusiasts there are!! My grandpa gave me an old facit 1742 and I was terrified of cleaning it but that won't be the case anymore haha thanks
Thanks a ton. Was just gifted a 1952 Underwood Leader in great condition, but gummy. Following your advice so far has worked great. As an aside, and I'm really not trying to be rude....but platten is pronounced as one would say "flatten"...again, my apologies if I offend. Great info and attention to detail! Thanks!
picked up my first type writer today! then I got a great deal on another one two hours later! using this video to clean the older Hermes media one i got, but it works perfectly as is, just needs a refreshing compared to this newer sterling one. mechanical for the win! Thanks for the great video.
Hi! The purple here in the states is used for everything from degreasing auto/truck engines and tires. Also, recently found that the new “spray” Dawn dishwashing degreaser works great too! Thanks for watching! Take care down there!
Thank you for your time to show us this information. I have picked up a few typewriters lately and wanted to know how to recondition them. Did a search on you-tube and there you were. Low and behold the Adler J5 typewriter you used in this video is one of the two typewriters I picked up today. WOW! Life is good! The other a 1958 Smith Corona 5TE electric model. I'm having a lot of fun with them. Catching the typewriter bug I guess.
Hey Fletch! This is awesome, I’m thrilled to have helped you with your machines! And to think, the J5 synchronicity! Very cool. Quick tip: Please do NOT power wash the ‘58 electric 5TE! Enjoy your machines, they’re amazing works if art are they not!? Enjoy & Thank You for watching and Shari your story with me!
Thank you soooo much for this video. You are awesome. Never knew I can power wash typewriter. I have just got one Brother 1000 DLX and the metal cover has rust spot. How would you suggest to do? Can I repaint it? I wish I could make it look new and shining again. Thanks. 🙂
Thank you so much! It's not difficult at all to paint your wonderful machine. There are between 2 and 6 screws holding the 'body' onto the chassis. I'd use a piece wet/dry 600 grit sand paper to smooth the rust spot and remove any 'shine' to help the paint adher better. For best results you can use an inexpensive air brush with canned air or spray can of your color or choice . Spraying light coats until you get the desired results. Thanks so much for watching. Stay tuned for more!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Big-big thanks for your reply. I accidentally found out I can use Sticker Remover to give the white keys a good clean-up. They are looking so much whiter now. I also used it to clean those alphabets on the metal arms and it worked! Those long-time ink gunk were off effortlessly. After this, I am going to give a good ole power wash. Really appreciate your informative videos. Have a wonderful weekend ahead. Stay safe. :)
This is a great help, thanks. Do you think I could sufficiently dry mine with a blow dryer, then leave it in a small room next to a dehumidifier? I don't have an air compressor and would rather not have to buy one.
Hi Taylor. The most important thing is to get the water out of all of the joints and hard to reach spots. As a minimum, I'd suggest looking over you machine and determining where those places are then use two cans of compressed air, then hair dryer, then set it in the sun on a warm surface for an hour or two. (Watch for rain of course) it's very important to get it dry as quickly as possible. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
I use Marvel Mystery oil, it's a red oil that will never gum up and cleans too lol. Seriously though it's awesome on typewriters. I'd be concerned as the metals in a typewriter are not chemically the same density and such as a pistol or rifle. But some oil is better than no oil as my Grandpapy used to say. Good job on cleaning, and Nice Adler too. 👍
The future of the typewriter maintenance will be the 3D Printing technique. It would be easy to create a new base for this typewriter with a 3D printer.
I have a underwood 378 that belongs to my dad. It,s about 55 years old. Do you have suggestion on how to clean the plastic cover? It used to be blue and now it's become Khaki colour. I also would like to get the keys back to white. It is now yellow.
That’s awesome, I like the 378. Great also that you got it from your Dad. Has there been a lot of smoking done around it over the years? I’d start with something very mild like “409” or even the new spray version of ‘Dawn’ on one of the back sides of a key with a Q-Tip. Try the same on the inside or rear of the body. That way if there is a reaction it’ll be less noticeable (worse case scenario) Is everything else about the machine working good?
First, thanks for watching! Second, a good manual typewriter is basically bullet-proof. In my opinion, keeping one free of dust build-up (keep them covered when not in use) They don't need a ton of "up keep". Keeping a new ribbon on hand is a must, though you can generally see that coming. It's been my experience that once you bring one back from the throws of non-use as in my video, a small adjustment here and there keeps one smooth and usable. I hope this isn't too vauge. Biggest issues I've had over the years is having a freak accident like dropping one or having a desk fall over and knocking one out of adjustment (not good, trust me). Then, to the doctor they go. In short, using as little oil as possible on the machine is best. When used, the thinnest gun oil or synthetic lube such as 'Duralube' is great, however they do attract dust. Hope this helps, have a great weekend.
Very good point. Admittedly power washing with a degreaser was a new concept that I adapted from a blip in a scene in the documentary “California Typewriter”. It was the only way I could see removing the shear amount of tar and nicotine that was attached to this machine. Every day is a learning experience 🙂. Thanks for watching, Type On!
I would try this: ‘never dull’ as the issue is leaving behind any residual residue from the cleaning. Once you clean the basket take your time wiping it all down. Here’s a link if you like: amzn.to/37pIsWN
Hello. How has your typewriter held up since washing it? Many people swear against washing a typewriter the way you did but I’m very tempted to do that to mine since is very gross on the inside. So if you’re typewriter held up well with no rust or anything like that, I may be more motivated to do so.
@kd3623 Mines the ol typer is doing great. To rust at all. The key is getting it completely dry with some form of compressed air. Preferably with a compressor. I learned the trick of washing it like I did watching the documentary “California Typewriter” and if a man with 50 years experience thinks it’s a good thing, I’m perfectly ok with it. Thanks for watching, I do hope it’s you with yours!
I'm very apprehensive about spray washing my 1940's Corona-Smith! Do you think a hair dryer will be forceful enough to get all the droplets out? Can I use it with heat, or just run it cold? Thanks!
You know. I hadn’t thought about using a hair dryer. I think I’d go with caned air then the hair dryer, it’s possible the combination could work as well. The heat would help it dry. Let me know how it works for you.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Attempted it this weekend...and success! Hair dryer worked perfect along with sunny weather. I think the degreaser really did the trick, along with using that gun oil on every single moveable joint. There were some felt pieces I should have seen: where each letter rests in the basket, and on the sides, so I had to double back and blow dry them some more. The rubber feet also didn't survive, so I had to order some new ones. The typing mechanism is as good as new though! Thanks for the tips!
@@AmidaTong I did this as well with my WWII L. Smith & Corona. I couldn't figure out why I kept getting brown when wiping everything down. It's been a while since I lived with a smoker. That was it! The whole machine poured brown. Gross. You can't beat the weight and glorious construction of these old beauties.
so because it’s manual you can just straight up spray it with water that’s so wild i miss mechanical tech. something about being able to understand how this tool works is so cool unlike with phones and computers ect
I have a little bit of rust on the back of my typewriter that I just bought. Its on the rear of the typewriter housing. I am really bad at the whole diy thing so do you know how much it usually would cost to get the rust off. and do some type writer stores repaint the typewriter to the original color? I want to repaint mine
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Southern California. I ended up cleaning it my self by taking the shell and putting the shell in rust remover. I also got the paint color matched at a hardware store and bought an air brush. Thank you.
That’s awesome, congrats! Since you’re in SoCal, if you ever need any repair work done, check out Mr Schultz’s shop in Santa Monica: Reese Office Machines. He’s a great guy and super knowledgeable. g.co/kgs/EuY37F
We have the same problem with ham radios from back in the day. Everyone smoked, and they're all nasty for the most part. On the bright side, it seems like that nasty tar like stuff tends to preserve metal. So it's a curse and a blessing all at the same time.
I HIGHLY recommend buying a bottle of 'Prolong Engine Additive" (you'll find it at auto parts stores or Walmart, and using a small eyedropper or craft bottle with metal tip to add just a drop to each key joint. This product will never gum-up and lubricate the joints indefinitely. Thanks for watching, have a great weekend!
Hello!! I have a question, I’ve replaced my ribbon, but the ribbon won’t move along by itself, I have to manually wind it along. I tried searching up what part does that but can’t find any info anywhere! Any advice what I’d have to fix/replace? It’s a Underwood. Thanks :)
@@Thisguyandhiscamera hello! Thanks for the fast response sorry for not seeing sooner, it is actually an Underwood 315 I was confused and sleepy when I wrote that haha! There is slight movement on the left wheel when typing but the ribbon doesn’t move along and is quite slack. Let me know what you think!
Hi , as a typewriter mechanic in the 1970/80 never seen anyone washing down a typewriter with the platen still installed but maybe thats a uk thing.Lol
Ah man, you’ve gotta share your knowledge! Seriously. I’ve picked up bits and pieces here and there myself. In fact nowadays I bet you’d have a booming business! Stay cool across the pond!
Thanks for the reply , but i am now 66 years old and well passed it. Lol I worked fom apprenticeship for company in Newcastle upon tyne called bell,s typewriters well known in city and long gone now. Good old days. Geoff
It could have just been the pressure I hit the keys at? Also, sometimes when you first install a new ribbon the ends can be a little “blotchy”. Thanks for watching Sonijam!
Sir, I am on the other side of the world and we don't have that kind of de greaser around. How about very dilute dish soap? I mostly clean my keyboards with that and they work fine, any experience with that? I have a Olympia Traveller de Luxe, plastic cover but full metal body inside. Another query is will general machine oil work well? Thank you.
I would not use dish soap. You must use a product that will 'cut' or dissolve the old, sticky lubricant. Mineral Spirits, rubbing alcohol 90+ plus is best. As far as oil, it's very important to use a very light oil otherwise you'll eventually end up with the same problem. Take it slow and you'll be typing in no time.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Thank you for replying. I think Mineral Spirits or 90% rubbing alcohol are easier to get at Paint stores. Will try with that. Will use oil sparingly to lubricate. If theres more to ask I hope you don't mind me coming back here. Thank you again and have a nice day!
Yeah that is a good thing about typewriter you don't have to save all the time and if the power goes out you can still work with the light ✨ of a lantern
@@Thisguyandhiscamera I'm considering going mixed-tech: create text with a mechanical typewriter, scan into a monochrome PDF with an automatic document feeder. Maybe process with OCR to allow easier copy pasting or search.
Cool tips, thanks! FYI, you probably wanna set your degreaser bottle to "spray" rather than stream. And "platen" rhymes with "flatten" -- it's not pronounced "plate-en". (And it's pronounced "PLAST-ex". Not "plastic-ex".) Finally, what do you do if you live in an NYC apartment with no yard, no garage and no compressor air hose? (In other words, how can ya safely clean a typewriter indoors?)
Buy yourself a cheap shower curtain, a small electric power sprayer at harbor freight or Amazon, four cans of pressurized “air in a can” and have at it. When I was in Living north of LA I had the same issue in my apartment. This advice is only shared because it’s what I did to clean screen printing screens at the time. Good luck! Type on!
It sounds like the original lubricant has gotten sticky. You can try odorless mineral spirits. Just a few drops at each if tge hinge points at the base of each arm. Best to do outdoors and on an old towel. Use a craft glue bottle
I need to add. When the keys are hard to press, the real issue is generally at the base of the hammer itself. With this, place your finger at the top if the hammer (where the letters are) and slowly pull them individually towards the platen. Gently work your cleaner into the base it wull slowly loosen enough to press the key and make the action work fluidly.
Hello, I'm from Portugal, and I just want to bought my first tipewriter... However I ctched a great deal: it was a bundle 😂... I got now an Halda, an Triumph Matura, an Imperial 66, an Royal 200, an Oliva 2002 and an Logika 3002. Can I do this in all the machines? If they have a little, little spots of rusty, can I do the same? Thanks a lot for your video. Wayting for your answer. Best Regards, Ana
Hi Soaresam, You can use this method with most any machine that is NOT electric. If rust is an issue the most important thing is to get the machine completely dry after cleaning. If possible, it may be possible to use a light steel wool on major rust issues and a small amount of light oil to help prevent more rust from forming. Take your time on you many projects. Congratulations!
You speak truth, however I love the added rust protection in high humidity areas of the country during prolonged non-use. Thank you for watching! Type On!
I Am Issuing A Cry For Help! I Have An Adler J5, And The Rust Has Gotten So Bad, The Key's Don't Even Move Anymore. It's Located Entirely In The Typebar, The Slots Where The Key's Pass Through Before Hitting The Paper? I Think That's What That Term Means. How Do I Get Rid of It?
work keys with lacquer thinner followed by thin rose oil then lacquer thinner again - must remove all dirt and rust - i fixed many adler J5( Adler Rep) - it is German it will clean up well
In your list of supplies you have both Purple Power and Greased Lightning. In the video you use only the Purple Power. Why both are listed? You don't actually need both, do you?
It is very important to see to it that all of the components are dried properly. Using a good degreaser and power washer is a very efficient and effective means of cleaning. But admittedly getting it completely dry with compressed air and a sunny day are equally important. Thank You yo for watching!🙏
Why didn't you take the platen and feed rolls out The TYPe BARS sit in the SEGMENT, you need a segment pick to get the majority of muck out of the segment
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Good morning, 0723 hrs and 11 degs in Phayao Thailand , that's cold for us. I can't remember ever seeing a commercially made SEGMENT PICK, it was something apprentices made very early, very early in the apprenticeship. Many were made from old Underwood type bars . Underwood din't have a hole for the segment wire, the bar "hooked" onto the wire and could be removed by pulling the bar upwards and back, you would grind the upper section od the hook off together with the end where the type was soldered, then attach the type bar to a 3/16 or 1/4 rod by hacksawing a slot in the rod and soldering it in, a bit of work involved....I used a straight piece of spring wire, with flats ground on each side to let it fit snugly into the segment, it had a slight bend upwards that allowed me to get on to the top of the type bar and the bottom oif the segment underneath the congealed .muck and lift it out, You may be able to make one from an old hacksaw blade, if the blade will fit into the segment when the teeth have been ground off, you could shape ( you've got me thinking now) this is all dependent on the blade fitting into the segment...you could grind the end to a long taper and remove the top hald of the hole leaving just a very small hook at the bottom, enough hook to get between the bar and the segment that shape would work............FLUSHING WITH LACQUER THINNERS DIDN'T WORK SIXTY YEARS AGO AND IT WON'T WORK NOW FOR THE SAME REASON THAT IT SOFTENS THE MUCK ON APPLICATION THEN DRIES AND THE MUCK IS STILL THERE..WE USED WHITE SPIRIT (WIKLIPEDIA) WITH A DASH OD WHITE OIL, THIS WAS USED WHEN i FIRST STARTED AND WAS STLL IN USE 50 YEARS LATER. This has been long winded, but if you need help give me a video call on face book and we can talk about it Cheers Bill Just had another thought, motor bike spokes make great spring hooks, there is no reason why one couldn't be shaped for a segment pick, the hook end is already there
Absolutely fantastic information Bill. Thank you very much for sharing this with me (and all who will read this in the future) as it’s so incredibly important for us to preserve and pass on the art of repairing these amazing machines. I will be giving you a shout soon via FB.
The key to power-washing a manual typewriter is using compressed air to get all of the water out of it when you're finished cleaning it. But yes, in my opinion with the correct cleaning agent this is the very best way to get one clean. Watch the movie "California Typewriter" there are lots of little hints in that movie. Thanks for watching!
Heck, if I knew I could power wash my Imperial from the start... I guess I'll have to go door to door to my neighbors and see if I can beg for a loaned air compressor. Side note: do you think that it's safe to just use a normal shower head with a little bit of dish soap as the solvent? I don't have sufficient water pressure to remove the lubricant physically, so I guess I'll need to dissolve it with the dish soap? If not, what other household items would you recommend? I'm in the UK if that helps.
You can prep it and take it to a self serve car wash with a quart spray bottle of 'purple power' or 'simple green'. That's actually how I first saw it done in the documentary 'California Typewriter'. Really a great movie. Also... Compressed air in a can to get the water out if you don't have a compressor. Might take a can or two. Then hit it with a little heat (hair dryer) or set it in the sun. Thanks for watching!
Fail to understand why the reluctance to remove platen and and feed rolls, Hammers = type bars. When this machine was made we used a clear stainless oil. Black ribbons will not last twice as long as black red. A fifty year old platen is probably forty seven years past it's use by date
black and red ink always migrate to center to create a mess - quick platen fix - use grit cloth lacquer thinner plus towel roll easy and evenly should remove pitting and slipping - if platen is real bad then might also need platen paper gap adjustment might be needed
@@JosephFernandezfrpm I 'll wear my ribbon manufacturer's hat of 25 years to reply to this part of your posting, inks used in the manufacture of ribbons should migrate evenly into the tracks created by use. Black and colored inks Will not invade each other, that is black and red inks will not invade each other, they actually reject each other. If you have a "MESS" in the centre of your black red ribbons the inking machine(s) has/have not had the tracking alignment set up correctly or the ribbon 'manufaturer is using the inks not made for the ourpoose for which it's being used. I'll change my hat to that of a Journeyman Typewrite Mechanic, if platens are pitted it's because they are old and the rubber has hardened, pits are sometimes so deep removing them effects paper feed and impressions. Platens were sometimes resurfaced in the workshops but this was done using a lathe, lacquer thinners was never used , it does give the platen a very nice dull, like new appearance but in fact it tends to harden the rubber, try methylated spirit.
Indeed it did. I added felt feet due to the utter lack of rubber replacements. With the frame the shape it was, it actually HAD to be lifters I tad. Thanks for watching, have a great weekend ahead.
I like Z-Max better for your car than dura lube. It's the only oil additive endorsed by Carroll Shelby and it's ALSO approved by the FAA, and those guys are super anal about airplanes.
I’ve seen it on the shelf, but never used it. I’ll give it a try. Actually plan on changing the oil in my bus this week. I’ll add it to it! Thanks for the tip. I’ll let you know how it goes/preforms. And thanks for watching!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera That's good then. P.s. it looks so much better!!!! And the metalwork looked in good order, despite being dirty, so should be fine. I'd just be reluctant to doing this if there was any rust present to behind with etc. I've just cleaned all the keytops on one that I recently bought, and trying to get rid of the nicotine was a nightmare. You Americans seem to have some great products haha.
The nicotine was the real shocker when I cleaned this one. It just poured out (with the solution). If you haven’t seen the documentary’California Typewriter’, take an hour and be truly entertained. It was actually responsible for giving me the idea to use high pressure water on my really dirty machines. What part of this big blue marble (earth) are you located?
Bravo! Cu ajutorul tău mașinile de scris vor deveni mai rarre și mai scumpe dacă se iau mulți după ce ai zis. După ce speli cu apă să te uiți ce frumos și repede apare rugina pe arcuri. Mașinile de scris iubesc apa, da, sunt ca delfinii... Ce ai arătat tu este o fățuială pentru vânzare, nu o curățare responsabilă, chiar și rapidă fiind. Bravo pentru inițiativă, dar să nu mai faci așa ceva! Cu apă.... phai!!!
I learned about it from a little clip from the “California Typewriter” documentary. I was hesitant as well, but when they’re sticky and nasty from decades of cigarette smoke there’s not many options.
non cigarette smokers can sound so whiny. the keys have deffinentaly yellowed do to many other elements at play. The keys were not bright white new they were caramel. very good video though way easier process than i have been doing
Love California Typewriter.
Yes, me too. Truly great documentary that almost anyone will enjoy. One doesn’t have to be into typewriters to appreciate that documentary about creativity, love, history, art, technology and enthusiasm for something.
As someone who has restored a few typewriters, I am firmly against using any kind of lubricant on the segment (the thing you refer to as the carriage), because over time lubricants attract debris and dust which only serves to gum things up faster. The majority of moving metal parts on a typewriter should be cleaned with lacquer thinner or similar solvent and not oiled. Very small amounts of lubricant are only used on the carriage rail bearings, escapement, etc... As a note, the carriage refers the thing that holds the paper that moves right to left when you type.
I understand. Though there are situations where a drop or two will greatly speed up you ability to get typing.
Thank you so much for watching. Have a couple interesting ones coming soon.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Thanks for the reply and video too. That is a wonderful typewriter you restored. You mentioned Phoenix Typewriter in your video. Duane is an experienced typewriter repairman that has some tutorials on cleaning segments, platens, key slugs, freeing up sticky keys and none of them involve using oil. Anyway, I look forward to your upcoming videos. Thanks!
Yes that is true, as a old Adler Tech from the 70's there are 2 carriage screws also and carriage return spring which could be removed to get into the under belly for proper cleaning and adjustments. taking out the platen and rollers is easy and is a must for proper cleaning. Finally Adler is German you should have metric tools for proper adjustments
@@andycan09 does Duane have youtube channel on typewriter repairs. I'm interested to check it out
@@twogreenthumbs5479 Yes, his channel is called Phoenix Typewriter
I have a 1972 Smith Corona Galaxie 12, and I dread to think of taking the shell completely off of it like this, sure I'd a good thing I don't need or plan on doing this any time soon, as mine is very very well maintained, however when it does need a nice clean, boy am I in for it.
Gotta love that Galaxie 12! Great machine! Thanks for watching, type on!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera yes, a very great machine, I shall continue to type on.
I have a smith corona tuxedo. The shell seems like metal.. do I really need to take it off?
Great information! Thanks!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
A few thoughts:
Ribbons: usually, you don't need any new ribbon when buying a used typewriter. Most ribbons are fine, only the section that has been sitting in the open for the last decades will be dry. Just manually "fast-forward" the ribbon for 6-10 turns of the spool, and you've got fresh, inked ribbon ready to go. Most typewriters have an automatic direction reversal once you hit the end of one spool and by the time you get back to the "dried-up" section, it will be good to go again.
Hard platen: it's easy to strip the rubber off a hardened platen and recoat it with shrink tubes and a heat gun. There's a great tutorial on TH-cam from CreateX3.
Feet: DON'T use felt feet. Use rubber feet. One of the main concerns of typists is that their typewriters begin to wander when used. That's why you have typing mats to keep your machine with its old hardened rubber feet in place. Get new rubber feet so you don't have to chase your machine while typing...
Oh the interwebs…
Thank you so much for this extremely helpful how-to.
Thank you so much Rabbi Steve! Glad to be of service for you! In addition to the video several viewers have added so good tips as well! Thank you for watching!
This is awesome. I'm gonna have to rewatch this video when I find my typewriter
Thanks @StellarOrbit Type On!
Wow, found this video tonight. Planning on searching out my 2 ancient typewriters in my garage tomorrow and seeing if they still work. I just started watching the movie California Typewriters and really enjoying all the information and had to come back to your page and say “Thanks DC” for your video.
Victoria that’s awesome! You’re so welcome! Did you enjoy California Typewriter? Hope you found your Typers! If they need new ribbons, there’s always Amazon! Have a fantastic Day/Afternoon/or Evening! Type On!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera LOL, I still haven’t dug out the typewriters yet but I totally enjoyed the documentary. I did a bit of research and found where the owner of California Typewriter finally did close up shop March 2020 and sold the building, I really thought the one guy, Ken Alexander,would have taken over the business. Instead, he just went to work for a shop in Berkeley. Thanks again! I highly recommend the movie, it was very informative and interesting. Now I know how to clean up the one portable typewriter that I have from 1960’s. I have sought out & found the only typewriter repair here in Memphis,TN that is still open for business. I still have my picture where you wrote my name in the sand while we waited for sunset. That was so cool of you to do that for all of us. I’m an hour behind you, so you’re most likely asleep. My puppy woke me up wanting outside at 1:40am, I know I shouldn’t have picked my phone up, cause now I’m all smiles thinking about your awesome sunsets. I really miss that.
WoW! Thank you so much, you made my morning! Those were very fun times on the beach. I think about writing names in the sand often. It was my favorite part of my scopes. Thrilled that you have yours!
There’s a man in Santa Monica at Reese’s Office Machines/Supply that has done all of my needed repairs. Though now I’m in NC I hope to visit him again soon. He’s amazing, reminds me of Geppetto right down to the leather suspenders/bib!
Hope to share some more adventures soon. I’m building a skoolie for just such a purpose it’ll be rolling by March ‘23 😉@skoolie309 !
Have an AWESOME DAY!
Hi Victoria! So… After I read your comments I decided to make available all of the Periscope
Livestreams that I had saved prior to Periscopes demise. If your interested the are in a playlist labeled ‘Periscope Livestreams’ hope this finds you having an amazing Saturday Night! Take care!
DC, you’re the best. I’m thrilled that you have done that. I’ll be watching them every night.
This was so helpful for my first typewriter cleaning and restoration. Purple degreaser is amazing. Thank you!
You're very welcome. Very happy I could help!
Thanks a million for taking the time to put this together Much appreciated Nothing like the quality of the past
Thank you very much! Very glad that this helped you!
I just got a Remington streamliner II 1970 and the letters are not only rusty but have like guck hanging on like it’s really dirty so I might even have to do some deeper cleaning but this video helped so much to know the bits and pieces of the type writer so I can clean it! Thank you!!!
That's a wonderful machine you have. A small wire brush or heavy tooth brush with orderless mineral spirits will help on those Key's hammers as well.
Very happy this has helped. Have a great day. :)
You really made a good effort to service the machine , a compliment form an old typewriter mechanic
Thank you so much Bill.
I don't know what we'd do if we didn't have these with us today.
@Bill Ogle Any input on the use of oil on the segment? AFAIK, it's generally not advised to oil the segment because that's the first part that's gonna gunk up again, and then you'd have to clean the machine again and again and again.
@@mx5701 All moving parts require some lubrication but excessive oil is as bad as no oil, it was rubbers , or coverup tape (chalk) that caused most of the segment clogging, if you have or could make a segment pick you could pick out the segment every 3-4 months. If you get an half inch varnish brush, cut the bristles to a length of about half to three quarters of an inch, using a mixture of mineral turpentine (white spirit) with a dash of white, light stainless oil, you can scrub the type (slugs) and brush the segment with an upwards motion after you've picked it you will get all the gunk out, then lightly oil....you can make a pick out of an old type bar, royal bars were good because the had a long tail.......every moving part needs some oil but not too much.. search Ames Tools I'm sure you will find a segment pick there , it will give you an idea how to make it...let me know at any time if you think I can help
Thanks! That’s how I’ll degrease my macbook.
Dude, Epic! ;) Thanks for watching.
I want to see a how to video so I do it right
But leave it plugged in and on to get the water out faster.
It's like detailing a car! Thanks for the info. Getting my 1st typewriter in the mail, very soon!
That’s awesome! Congratulations and happy typing!
This really helps thank you. I recently got my grandfather's typewriter and it needed a serious cleaning
That's awesome. Thanks for watching. Happy typing!
Thank you for making this very well done video. Much appreciated!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thank you!
Great and professional skills video is the best I got an 1929 green royal tape writer that needs work ( cleaning) before to be listed on eBay. Your videos give me lots of ideas thank you
Very happy that I could help. Let me know when you list it on eBay.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera listed It And Took It Down It doesn't Work As The First Day
I've used your methods on my filthy BBQ grill, but I've seen lacquer thinner and compressed air as an alternative to degreasers and water when it comes to typewriters. I can't imagine using your technique on my beloved Olympia SM3. BTW, I'll bet that Purple spray bottle has a wide fan option on it FWIW.
Haha, well, you need to understand this was about as dirty as my rib smoker out back ;) 99/100 don’t need this treatment. However for the sake of getting all /or as much as possible nicotine off it was a necessary action. Actually felt the same way till I watched “California Typewriter” and saw him wheel a stack of writers down to the local car wash! I thought, “That’s how he does it!” Obviously, getting the water out is most important!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera LOL thanks for the qualification!
Great video! absolutely amazing to watch this kind of content and realize just how many of us typewriting enthusiasts there are!! My grandpa gave me an old facit 1742 and I was terrified of cleaning it but that won't be the case anymore haha thanks
Thank you so much Isabelli! They’re basically indestructible if you let/get them completely dry as rust is a killer.
Thank you for watching! 🙂
Me again.....what do you recommend for cleaning the old crinkle type finish on the old metal housings?
I would use a soft toothbrush and a mild dish soap. Followed by several wipes with a damp soft cloth to remove the residue. Hope this helps!
Thanks a ton. Was just gifted a 1952 Underwood Leader in great condition, but gummy. Following your advice so far has worked great.
As an aside, and I'm really not trying to be rude....but platten is pronounced as one would say "flatten"...again, my apologies if I offend.
Great info and attention to detail!
Thanks!
Thanks for the heads up! Happy typing. I appreciate you watching, glad it’s helped you.
Royal still makes a manual typewriter.
Class , thank you
🙏
picked up my first type writer today! then I got a great deal on another one two hours later! using this video to clean the older Hermes media one i got, but it works perfectly as is, just needs a refreshing compared to this newer sterling one. mechanical for the win! Thanks for the great video.
Very glad that I could help and congratulations on the two new typers! Thanks for watching!
Worked on my MacBook, too
👍😂🤣😂
Don’t try it with a Windows machine though, they just can’t handle it.
Thanks for watching! Type On!
Hi. Great video. I’m in Australia. Is purple degreaser just ordinary degreaser? We don’t have purple here? Thanks so much.
Hi! The purple here in the states is used for everything from degreasing auto/truck engines and tires. Also, recently found that the new “spray” Dawn dishwashing degreaser works great too! Thanks for watching! Take care down there!
Thank you, I'll try to do a cleaning and restoration on my nakayima-all model 2000, please wish me luck, greetings from Chile
That’s fantastic! Glad I could help, you’ll get your machine as clean as new! Let me know how it works out for you! Thank you for watching Poncio!
Thank you for your time to show us this information. I have picked up a few typewriters lately and wanted to know how to recondition them. Did a search on you-tube and there you were. Low and behold the Adler J5 typewriter you used in this video is one of the two typewriters I picked up today. WOW! Life is good! The other a 1958 Smith Corona 5TE electric model. I'm having a lot of fun with them. Catching the typewriter bug I guess.
Hey Fletch! This is awesome, I’m thrilled to have helped you with your machines! And to think, the J5 synchronicity! Very cool.
Quick tip: Please do NOT power wash the ‘58 electric 5TE! Enjoy your machines, they’re amazing works if art are they not!? Enjoy & Thank You for watching and Shari your story with me!
I'm surprised Purple Degreaser didn't sponsor this video.
Would've been nice, but its just a go-to for getting the gunk out of these old machines.
Thanks for watching, type-on!
Thank you soooo much for this video. You are awesome. Never knew I can power wash typewriter. I have just got one Brother 1000 DLX and the metal cover has rust spot. How would you suggest to do? Can I repaint it? I wish I could make it look new and shining again. Thanks. 🙂
Thank you so much!
It's not difficult at all to paint your wonderful machine. There are between 2 and 6 screws holding the 'body' onto the chassis. I'd use a piece wet/dry 600 grit sand paper to smooth the rust spot and remove any 'shine' to help the paint adher better. For best results you can use an inexpensive air brush with canned air or spray can of your color or choice . Spraying light coats until you get the desired results.
Thanks so much for watching. Stay tuned for more!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Big-big thanks for your reply. I accidentally found out I can use Sticker Remover to give the white keys a good clean-up. They are looking so much whiter now. I also used it to clean those alphabets on the metal arms and it worked! Those long-time ink gunk were off effortlessly. After this, I am going to give a good ole power wash. Really appreciate your informative videos. Have a wonderful weekend ahead. Stay safe. :)
That’s fantastic CSH! You too, have a great, safe weekend too! Happy Typing!
This is a great help, thanks. Do you think I could sufficiently dry mine with a blow dryer, then leave it in a small room next to a dehumidifier? I don't have an air compressor and would rather not have to buy one.
Hi Taylor. The most important thing is to get the water out of all of the joints and hard to reach spots. As a minimum, I'd suggest looking over you machine and determining where those places are then use two cans of compressed air, then hair dryer, then set it in the sun on a warm surface for an hour or two. (Watch for rain of course) it's very important to get it dry as quickly as possible.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
This Guy And His Camera Thank you, really appreciate it!
You're most welcome, Type On! :)
I use Marvel Mystery oil, it's a red oil that will never gum up and cleans too lol. Seriously though it's awesome on typewriters. I'd be concerned as the metals in a typewriter are not chemically the same density and such as a pistol or rifle. But some oil is better than no oil as my Grandpapy used to say.
Good job on cleaning, and Nice Adler too. 👍
The future of the typewriter maintenance will be the 3D Printing technique. It would be easy to create a new base for this typewriter with a 3D printer.
I AGREE! As they unfortunately disappear, we'll still have the ability to 'print' all of the parts we need!
Thanks for watching!
What, just one glove . . . . "looks pretty easy doesn't it" . . . . ha. Nice video.
I have a underwood 378 that belongs to my dad. It,s about 55 years old. Do you have suggestion on how to clean the plastic cover? It used to be blue and now it's become Khaki colour. I also would like to get the keys back to white. It is now yellow.
That’s awesome, I like the 378. Great also that you got it from your Dad.
Has there been a lot of smoking done around it over the years?
I’d start with something very mild like “409” or even the new spray version of ‘Dawn’ on one of the back sides of a key with a Q-Tip. Try the same on the inside or rear of the body. That way if there is a reaction it’ll be less noticeable (worse case scenario)
Is everything else about the machine working good?
Hi! I have a question for you, How often should a typewriter be lubricated and serviced?
First, thanks for watching!
Second, a good manual typewriter is basically bullet-proof. In my opinion, keeping one free of dust build-up (keep them covered when not in use) They don't need a ton of "up keep". Keeping a new ribbon on hand is a must, though you can generally see that coming.
It's been my experience that once you bring one back from the throws of non-use as in my video, a small adjustment here and there keeps one smooth and usable. I hope this isn't too vauge.
Biggest issues I've had over the years is having a freak accident like dropping one or having a desk fall over and knocking one out of adjustment (not good, trust me). Then, to the doctor they go.
In short, using as little oil as possible on the machine is best. When used, the thinnest gun oil or synthetic lube such as 'Duralube' is great, however they do attract dust.
Hope this helps, have a great weekend.
Nsxt time remove the platen, degreaser is bad for rubber and it will hold moisture from the hose for days
Very good point. Admittedly power washing with a degreaser was a new concept that I adapted from a blip in a scene in the documentary “California Typewriter”. It was the only way I could see removing the shear amount of tar and nicotine that was attached to this machine. Every day is a learning experience 🙂. Thanks for watching, Type On!
The "carriage" is the top of the typewriter that holds the platen. What you are calling the carriage is actually called the segment.
Awesome @smokikee thanks for the correction!
I just bought a mid 50's Royal Quiet Deluxe for my wife that works perfectly but I want to shine up the basket. Any advice?
I would try this: ‘never dull’ as the issue is leaving behind any residual residue from the cleaning. Once you clean the basket take your time wiping it all down. Here’s a link if you like: amzn.to/37pIsWN
Hello. How has your typewriter held up since washing it? Many people swear against washing a typewriter the way you did but I’m very tempted to do that to mine since is very gross on the inside. So if you’re typewriter held up well with no rust or anything like that, I may be more motivated to do so.
@kd3623 Mines the ol typer is doing great. To rust at all. The key is getting it completely dry with some form of compressed air. Preferably with a compressor. I learned the trick of washing it like I did watching the documentary “California Typewriter” and if a man with 50 years experience thinks it’s a good thing, I’m perfectly ok with it. Thanks for watching, I do hope it’s you with yours!
I'm very apprehensive about spray washing my 1940's Corona-Smith! Do you think a hair dryer will be forceful enough to get all the droplets out? Can I use it with heat, or just run it cold? Thanks!
You know. I hadn’t thought about using a hair dryer. I think I’d go with caned air then the hair dryer, it’s possible the combination could work as well. The heat would help it dry. Let me know how it works for you.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Attempted it this weekend...and success! Hair dryer worked perfect along with sunny weather. I think the degreaser really did the trick, along with using that gun oil on every single moveable joint. There were some felt pieces I should have seen: where each letter rests in the basket, and on the sides, so I had to double back and blow dry them some more. The rubber feet also didn't survive, so I had to order some new ones. The typing mechanism is as good as new though! Thanks for the tips!
That's FANTASTIC! Congratulations!
Enjoy your 'new' typewriter!
Have a good week ahead. TGAHC
@@AmidaTong I did this as well with my WWII L. Smith & Corona. I couldn't figure out why I kept getting brown when wiping everything down. It's been a while since I lived with a smoker. That was it! The whole machine poured brown. Gross. You can't beat the weight and glorious construction of these old beauties.
so because it’s manual you can just straight up spray it with water that’s so wild i miss mechanical tech. something about being able to understand how this tool works is so cool unlike with phones and computers ect
I completely agree. They’re incredibly organic!
I have a little bit of rust on the back of my typewriter that I just bought. Its on the rear of the typewriter housing. I am really bad at the whole diy thing so do you know how much it usually would cost to get the rust off. and do some type writer stores repaint the typewriter to the original color? I want to repaint mine
Are you working on a budget?
@@juancantu6169 100 is how much I am willing to spend
Hi Ace, first, thanks for watching and my apologies for the lengthy response. Have you had you typewriter painted yet? What’s your general location?
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Southern California. I ended up cleaning it my self by taking the shell and putting the shell in rust remover. I also got the paint color matched at a hardware store and bought an air brush. Thank you.
That’s awesome, congrats!
Since you’re in SoCal, if you ever need any repair work done, check out Mr Schultz’s shop in Santa Monica: Reese Office Machines. He’s a great guy and super knowledgeable.
g.co/kgs/EuY37F
We have the same problem with ham radios from back in the day. Everyone smoked, and they're all nasty for the most part. On the bright side, it seems like that nasty tar like stuff tends to preserve metal. So it's a curse and a blessing all at the same time.
Agreed! Drove OTR for years CB's had similar issues in smoke filled cabs!
Thanks for watching!
Please can you recommend a type of oil that can lubricate the keys but won't cause them to rust? Thank you.
I HIGHLY recommend buying a bottle of 'Prolong Engine Additive" (you'll find it at auto parts stores or Walmart, and using a small eyedropper or craft bottle with metal tip to add just a drop to each key joint. This product will never gum-up and lubricate the joints indefinitely.
Thanks for watching, have a great weekend!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Thank you very much for the advice.
This is such a helpful video! Thank you so much for making such an in-depth tutorial.
My pleasure! Thank you so much for watching 😀
Hello!! I have a question, I’ve replaced my ribbon, but the ribbon won’t move along by itself, I have to manually wind it along. I tried searching up what part does that but can’t find any info anywhere! Any advice what I’d have to fix/replace? It’s a Underwood. Thanks :)
What model/year is it?
@@Thisguyandhiscamera hello! Thanks for the fast response sorry for not seeing sooner, it is actually an Underwood 315 I was confused and sleepy when I wrote that haha! There is slight movement on the left wheel when typing but the ribbon doesn’t move along and is quite slack. Let me know what you think!
possible loose or missing spring or ribbon ratchet needs adjustment or worn out
Thank you so much for this!!✅
You are most welcome! Happy that it's helped you!
Hi , as a typewriter mechanic in the 1970/80 never seen anyone washing down a typewriter with the platen still installed but maybe thats a uk thing.Lol
Ah man, you’ve gotta share your knowledge! Seriously. I’ve picked up bits and pieces here and there myself. In fact nowadays I bet you’d have a booming business! Stay cool across the pond!
Thanks for the reply , but i am now 66 years old and well passed it. Lol
I worked fom apprenticeship for company in Newcastle upon tyne called bell,s typewriters well known in city and long gone now. Good old days. Geoff
Why do some of the letters look so faded, especially the W, h, a, and the top left side of the T, when you just put a fresh ribbon on?
It could have just been the pressure I hit the keys at? Also, sometimes when you first install a new ribbon the ends can be a little “blotchy”.
Thanks for watching Sonijam!
For you non-amaricans out there who can't get gun oil (aka FREEDOM OIL). Use sewing machine oil.
Excellent thank you! Didn’t consider it may be different in other parts of the world!
Thanks for watching!
Sir, I am on the other side of the world and we don't have that kind of de greaser around. How about very dilute dish soap? I mostly clean my keyboards with that and they work fine, any experience with that? I have a Olympia Traveller de Luxe, plastic cover but full metal body inside.
Another query is will general machine oil work well?
Thank you.
I would not use dish soap. You must use a product that will 'cut' or dissolve the old, sticky lubricant. Mineral Spirits, rubbing alcohol 90+ plus is best. As far as oil, it's very important to use a very light oil otherwise you'll eventually end up with the same problem. Take it slow and you'll be typing in no time.
@@Thisguyandhiscamera
Thank you for replying.
I think Mineral Spirits or 90% rubbing alcohol are easier to get at Paint stores. Will try with that.
Will use oil sparingly to lubricate.
If theres more to ask I hope you don't mind me coming back here. Thank you again and have a nice day!
I don't mind at all. Happy to help!
I don't have a typewriter but I do want one I am tired of pc. Doing what it wants
One of the amazing things about creating on a typewriter is that whatever you create, at that moment, only exists on that one sheet of paper...
Yeah that is a good thing about typewriter you don't have to save all the time and if the power goes out you can still work with the light ✨ of a lantern
@@Thisguyandhiscamera I'm considering going mixed-tech: create text with a mechanical typewriter, scan into a monochrome PDF with an automatic document feeder. Maybe process with OCR to allow easier copy pasting or search.
Cool tips, thanks! FYI, you probably wanna set your degreaser bottle to "spray" rather than stream. And "platen" rhymes with "flatten" -- it's not pronounced "plate-en". (And it's pronounced "PLAST-ex". Not "plastic-ex".) Finally, what do you do if you live in an NYC apartment with no yard, no garage and no compressor air hose? (In other words, how can ya safely clean a typewriter indoors?)
Buy yourself a cheap shower curtain, a small electric power sprayer at harbor freight or Amazon, four cans of pressurized “air in a can” and have at it.
When I was in Living north of LA I had the same issue in my apartment. This advice is only shared because it’s what I did to clean screen printing screens at the time. Good luck! Type on!
I really need help on mine because the keys are very hard to press I added oil and everything but nothing changed, can you help me?
It sounds like the original lubricant has gotten sticky. You can try odorless mineral spirits. Just a few drops at each if tge hinge points at the base of each arm. Best to do outdoors and on an old towel. Use a craft glue bottle
@@Thisguyandhiscamera can you do a whole video of it? Because I don't really understand
I'll gladly send you a sort of step by step photo guide. DM me on IG or Facebook @thisguyandhiscamera
I need to add. When the keys are hard to press, the real issue is generally at the base of the hammer itself. With this, place your finger at the top if the hammer (where the letters are) and slowly pull them individually towards the platen. Gently work your cleaner into the base it wull slowly loosen enough to press the key and make the action work fluidly.
flush the key segment with lacquer thinner
Hello, I'm from Portugal, and I just want to bought my first tipewriter... However I ctched a great deal: it was a bundle 😂...
I got now an Halda, an Triumph Matura, an Imperial 66, an Royal 200, an Oliva 2002 and an Logika 3002.
Can I do this in all the machines?
If they have a little, little spots of rusty, can I do the same?
Thanks a lot for your video.
Wayting for your answer.
Best Regards,
Ana
Hi Soaresam,
You can use this method with most any machine that is NOT electric. If rust is an issue the most important thing is to get the machine completely dry after cleaning. If possible, it may be possible to use a light steel wool on major rust issues and a small amount of light oil to help prevent more rust from forming. Take your time on you many projects. Congratulations!
Grandfather gave me his 1967 royal its a amazing but very dusty, needs a god clean
That’s AWESOME! Congratulations. That’s makes it all so special having Your Grandfather’s typewriter. Enjoy.
You really don't need to oil a clean typewriter.
You speak truth, however I love the added rust protection in high humidity areas of the country during prolonged non-use. Thank you for watching! Type On!
I Am Issuing A Cry For Help! I Have An Adler J5, And The Rust Has Gotten So Bad, The Key's Don't Even Move Anymore. It's Located Entirely In The Typebar, The Slots Where The Key's Pass Through Before Hitting The Paper? I Think That's What That Term Means. How Do I Get Rid of It?
Soak it in vinegar for a few hours then use a small brass brush to remove the rust.
This is an EXCELLENT idea. The vinegar will break down and remove the rust beautifully. (White Vinegar).
work keys with lacquer thinner followed by thin rose oil then lacquer thinner again - must remove all dirt and rust - i fixed many adler J5( Adler Rep) - it is German it will clean up well
for countries where guns are illegal, would sewing machine oil work here too?
Yes. These oils are very similar. Thanks so much for watching! Type On! 🙏
helpful nice video
Thanks Courtney, type on!
I'm having such a hard time identifying my typewriter year and model
Hey @CaptainMorgan check out: typewriterdatabase.com that’s where I get a lot of background info. Thanks for watching!
Brave man removing tiny screws on a mesh worktop😁
Magnetic fingers! Haha! Type On! Thanks for watching!
In your list of supplies you have both Purple Power and Greased Lightning. In the video you use only the Purple Power. Why both are listed? You don't actually need both, do you?
Both are very similar, but no, you do not need both. The main thing is to get them completely dry once finished.
Won’t it get rusty if cleaned with water ?
It is very important to see to it that all of the components are dried properly. Using a good degreaser and power washer is a very efficient and effective means of cleaning. But admittedly getting it completely dry with compressed air and a sunny day are equally important. Thank You yo for watching!🙏
Why didn't you take the platen and feed rolls out
The TYPe BARS sit in the SEGMENT, you need a segment pick to get the majority of muck out of the segment
Thanks for the advice. Over the past couple of years it's been one big learning process.
Bill, I've thought alit about what you said here. Where can I find a segment pick? What do they look like?
@@Thisguyandhiscamera Good morning, 0723 hrs and 11 degs in Phayao Thailand , that's cold for us. I can't remember ever seeing a commercially made SEGMENT PICK, it was something apprentices made very early, very early in the apprenticeship. Many were made from old Underwood type bars . Underwood din't have a hole for the segment wire, the bar "hooked" onto the wire and could be removed by pulling the bar upwards and back, you would grind the upper section od the hook off together with the end where the type was soldered, then attach the type bar to a 3/16 or 1/4 rod by hacksawing a slot in the rod and soldering it in, a bit of work involved....I used a straight piece of spring wire, with flats ground on each side to let it fit snugly into the segment, it had a slight bend upwards that allowed me to get on to the top of the type bar and the bottom oif the segment underneath the congealed .muck and lift it out, You may be able to make one from an old hacksaw blade, if the blade will fit into the segment when the teeth have been ground off, you could shape ( you've got me thinking now) this is all dependent on the blade fitting into the segment...you could grind the end to a long taper and remove the top hald of the hole leaving just a very small hook at the bottom, enough hook to get between the bar and the segment that shape would work............FLUSHING WITH LACQUER THINNERS DIDN'T WORK SIXTY YEARS AGO AND IT WON'T WORK NOW FOR THE SAME REASON THAT IT SOFTENS THE MUCK ON APPLICATION THEN DRIES AND THE MUCK IS STILL THERE..WE USED WHITE SPIRIT (WIKLIPEDIA) WITH A DASH OD WHITE OIL, THIS WAS USED WHEN i FIRST STARTED AND WAS STLL IN USE 50 YEARS LATER. This has been long winded, but if you need help give me a video call on face book and we can talk about it Cheers Bill
Just had another thought, motor bike spokes make great spring hooks, there is no reason why one couldn't be shaped for a segment pick, the hook end is already there
Absolutely fantastic information Bill. Thank you very much for sharing this with me (and all who will read this in the future) as it’s so incredibly important for us to preserve and pass on the art of repairing these amazing machines. I will be giving you a shout soon via FB.
its metroman guys
... and his typewriter is spotless. ;) Thanks for watching!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera indeed it is spotless, not a speck to be seen anywhere
What are the odds I have that exact typewriter
That's Awesome!
the type writer is okay to get wet? is it not going to be rusty? sorry I just got my grandmother's old Marathon 2000 dlx Typewriter.
The key to power-washing a manual typewriter is using compressed air to get all of the water out of it when you're finished cleaning it. But yes, in my opinion with the correct cleaning agent this is the very best way to get one clean. Watch the movie "California Typewriter" there are lots of little hints in that movie. Thanks for watching!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera thank you so so much for the information! i'm just actually new in typewriters but i'm willng to know more 'bout it. Thank you
You're most welcome! Let me know how it all works out for you, happy typing!
water is never a friend of a typewriter - blow all water out with compressed air
Heck, if I knew I could power wash my Imperial from the start... I guess I'll have to go door to door to my neighbors and see if I can beg for a loaned air compressor.
Side note: do you think that it's safe to just use a normal shower head with a little bit of dish soap as the solvent? I don't have sufficient water pressure to remove the lubricant physically, so I guess I'll need to dissolve it with the dish soap? If not, what other household items would you recommend? I'm in the UK if that helps.
You can prep it and take it to a self serve car wash with a quart spray bottle of 'purple power' or 'simple green'.
That's actually how I first saw it done in the documentary 'California Typewriter'. Really a great movie. Also... Compressed air in a can to get the water out if you don't have a compressor. Might take a can or two. Then hit it with a little heat (hair dryer) or set it in the sun.
Thanks for watching!
Fail to understand why the reluctance to remove platen and and feed rolls, Hammers = type bars. When this machine was made we used a clear stainless oil. Black ribbons will not last twice as long as black red. A fifty year old platen is probably forty seven years past it's use by date
Thanks Bill. Next time I’ll be more thorough. Stay safe.
black and red ink always migrate to center to create a mess - quick platen fix - use grit cloth lacquer thinner plus towel roll easy and evenly should remove pitting and slipping - if platen is real bad then might also need platen paper gap adjustment might be needed
@@JosephFernandezfrpm I 'll wear my ribbon manufacturer's hat of 25 years to reply to this part of your posting, inks used in the manufacture of ribbons should migrate evenly into the tracks created by use. Black and colored inks Will not invade each other, that is black and red inks will not invade each other, they actually reject each other. If you have a "MESS" in the centre of your black red ribbons the inking machine(s) has/have not had the tracking alignment set up correctly or the ribbon 'manufaturer is using the inks not made for the ourpoose for which it's being used. I'll change my hat to that of a Journeyman Typewrite Mechanic, if platens are pitted it's because they are old and the rubber has hardened, pits are sometimes so deep removing them effects paper feed and impressions. Platens were sometimes resurfaced in the workshops but this was done using a lathe, lacquer thinners was never used , it does give the platen a very nice dull, like new appearance but in fact it tends to harden the rubber, try methylated spirit.
That machine needs some new feet.
Indeed it did. I added felt feet due to the utter lack of rubber replacements. With the frame the shape it was, it actually HAD to be lifters I tad. Thanks for watching, have a great weekend ahead.
I like Z-Max better for your car than dura lube. It's the only oil additive endorsed by Carroll Shelby and it's ALSO approved by the FAA, and those guys are super anal about airplanes.
I’ve seen it on the shelf, but never used it. I’ll give it a try. Actually plan on changing the oil in my bus this week. I’ll add it to it! Thanks for the tip. I’ll let you know how it goes/preforms.
And thanks for watching!
UPDATE: I found it by the gallon for my DT466E/Bus/Skoolie. Thanks again!
So much water 😷 Oh man this is making me sad.
Not to worry. Not a speck if rust was created!
@@Thisguyandhiscamera That's good then. P.s. it looks so much better!!!! And the metalwork looked in good order, despite being dirty, so should be fine.
I'd just be reluctant to doing this if there was any rust present to behind with etc.
I've just cleaned all the keytops on one that I recently bought, and trying to get rid of the nicotine was a nightmare. You Americans seem to have some great products haha.
The nicotine was the real shocker when I cleaned this one. It just poured out (with the solution). If you haven’t seen the documentary’California Typewriter’, take an hour and be truly entertained. It was actually responsible for giving me the idea to use high pressure water on my really dirty machines. What part of this big blue marble (earth) are you located?
Bravo!
Cu ajutorul tău mașinile de scris vor deveni mai rarre și mai scumpe dacă se iau mulți după ce ai zis.
După ce speli cu apă să te uiți ce frumos și repede apare rugina pe arcuri. Mașinile de scris iubesc apa, da, sunt ca delfinii...
Ce ai arătat tu este o fățuială pentru vânzare, nu o curățare responsabilă, chiar și rapidă fiind.
Bravo pentru inițiativă, dar să nu mai faci așa ceva!
Cu apă.... phai!!!
not crazy about hosing a typewriter. 😐There is no way you'll get all the water out. #newrust
I learned about it from a little clip from the “California Typewriter” documentary. I was hesitant as well, but when they’re sticky and nasty from decades of cigarette smoke there’s not many options.
Allright weebs whos here after watching violet evergarden
Yikes.
?....... ? :)
non cigarette smokers can sound so whiny. the keys have deffinentaly yellowed do to many other elements at play. The keys were not bright white new they were caramel. very good video though way easier process than i have been doing
Thanks for watching Jeremiah, glad I could help. Check out the movie ‘CALIFORNIA Typewriter’ if you haven’t already, great flick. Thanks for watching.