Proper cleaning requires immersion in a tank that moves the fluid around and through the machine with the proper cleaning fluid (lix with solvent). Full hot water rinse, drain, blow out with compressed air, then full immersion in a oil and solvent bath to displace any remaining water, and blow out again. Then hand oiling with proper machine oil all pivot points. Of course the machines need to be taken apart to the point of rubber removal, case removal, scales that could be damaged, any motors, switches, clutches ect. The reason full immersion is important is it is the only way to really clean areas that are in close contact. If a machine is dripping with oil as the one mentioned in the video, there is a better chance of getting it reasonably clean since the oil is still fluid. Many times an old machine has oil that has "dried" up or has become gummy. Oil in this stage is not able to be reliably cleaned from all the pivot points with simply blowing solvent through it. It is not a good idea to try to oil over a dirty machine. Of course working on manual typewriters one might get away with a less thorough cleaning. Electric machines are more problematic, especially the full size office machines such as IBM and Adler that use power rolls to drive the type bars. The cams in these machines need to be very clean to work reliably. Besides full immersion cleaning on a really dirty machine with old oil the machine will also need the old rubber replaced, any clutches replaced (on electrics) and full adjustment. I understand this is not necessarily practical for many, especially since as far as I know you cannot get Lix anymore. I am not sure what was in it but it sure did clean office machines nice. Well as you might guess I used to fix machines professionally. It has been many years ago but I really enjoyed it, especially working on the nicely made machines. You just don't see things made the way the good typewriters were made. End of the rant.
I couldn’t agree more! There really is no comparison between a properly performed immersion cleaning verses any spot cleaning method, but unfortunately most amateurs & hobbyists don’t have access to the proper equipment, chemicals, and knowledge required for good results via immersion cleaning - hence my message in this video. Time and time again I have seen the horrific results of customers well-intended but misguided attempts at home-dunking, and it breaks my heart every time: melted keytops, ruined paint finishes on small parts which should have been removed but weren’t, residual chemicals that never get removed, etc. The list goes on. Ideally, immersion cleaning is indeed far superior, but given the scarcity of people properly prepared to perform it as well as the large amount of questions people ask me about it, I felt the need to speak up discouraging folks from attempting it at home. Since the overwhelming majority of typewriters today are seeing occasional recreational use only, it’s most often true that ‘just good enough’ is Good Enough indeed, especially for someone without access to a repair shop who would otherwise ruin their typewriter attempting to dunk-clean it at home when a simple segment flush & spot clean would have gotten them up & running. THOSE are the people this video is aimed at! Thank you so much for taking the time to speak up, sharing your knowledge and experience! I’ve been repairing/restoring typewriters for well over a decade, but i’m essentially self taught & never received any formal training...just lots of research, long conversations with my betters, and painful trial & error. I dearly wish I could have worked in a repair shop during the height of typewriter use, and i’m always grateful to make the acquaintance of a seasoned typewriter technician - in more ways than one, they just don’t make ‘em like they used to! Thank you again! God Bless :)
I totally understand where you are coming from. People today want the machine to look good (restored) and to type. Back in the day when the typewriter was a basic tool of the workplace the emphasis was reliability. Once a machine was really dirty and the lube old the only way to assure a reasonable level of reliability was the full "chemical clean" and adjustment. Besides it is not that it is unacceptable to spray out a machine or spot clean a sticky part if the condition of the machine doesn't warrant a full cleaning. Sometimes there simply wasn't the budget for a full service. It is really great of you to share your love of typewriters with the masses. @@TypewriterJustice
@@michaelbarnett3721 Can you please tell us what chemicals you suggest we use to perform a thorough cleaning? Charlie doesn't go into the details of what chemicals he actually used. Thanks in advance!
Hello! Loved this video - the machine came out amazing. Forgive me if you already have but would you consider making a video that shows us you actually cleaning a dirty manual like you describe in this video? I have truly been enjoying your videos.
@@TypewriterJustice I remember years back when I was repairing typewriters that there were statistics keep on various trades and typewriter repair had one of the highest rates of divorce and alcoholism. I know there have been many a "Drunk cleaning a typewriter" over the years.
@@michaelbarnett3721 - Ha!! i can’t lie, there have been a few machines to make it across my bench aided by a little non-standard lubrication. I’ve always said that the two most important tools to have in ones kit are patience & careful observation, and if those don’t work try coffee with a dollop of Scotch in it :)
Cleaning the way you did was the way most workshops cleaned machines years ago. It was training for the apprentice, using white spirit and a scrubbing brush, in a big tray. These days you can use a good detergent and hot water. We used to take the type bars out as well, they were place on a piece wire in the sequence they came out, we had link boxes to hold the links upright
Nice! I don't have a chemical tank. I did a royal O that I "treated" by pulling the case, and all the rubber, then doused it with two cans of brake cleaner. Worked great! Cool machine there thanks for sharing
Spot on Typewriter Justice, the smaller professional typewriter houses used a tray with a soft brush and cleaning fluid, the lager workshops had cleaning rooms where the machines were pressure sprayed with cleaning fluid(whit spirit with a dash of light clear oil) and left to dry. All machines were stripped feed and bail rolls as well all rubber parts just as you did it...
Can tell by the keys alone this is an Erika 10/11 or an Aztec. One or the other. Very distinctive carriage return lever and of course, the unjammer key on the left side of the keyboard.
Reuben Dunn just squirt some charcoal starter fluid in around all over, let set a few minutes. Grab you an old toothbrush and be careful about springs etc. squirt some more fluid in to rinse. Spray out the machine with clean air (you may prefer to get some canned air sold in hobby shops or electronic stores. Again, watch springs, adjustments, etc. And that’s pretty much how I clean out typewriters.
Bonjour, Merci pour cette vidéo. Également pourriez-vous me dire comment nettoyer le Skaï de la boîte de l’Erika 10 . Grand merci d’avance et bonne continuation.
Excellent job and brilliantly argued presentation! I would love to have a few more tips, if you could spare them, for a very awkward beginner who's really kinda scared of taking his machines apart and really cleaning them up. About your "contest question," the machine is possibly a Hermes. Cheers!
I know i'm commenting on a super old video but I'm working on the same machine (Aztec rebrand of Erika 10) and I was wondering if you had any advice on removing the outer shell so I can do a good cleaning. I have it loose, removed the key dejamming key but can't figure out how to get it around the carriage. Is this one of those machines that I have to remove the carriage before I can remove the shell?
slide the carriage all the way left, then you can thread the chassis out through the hole in the body; it helps to hold the chassis in the air from below with one hand, then use the other hand to remove the body
A really really bad dirty typewriter I have used charcoal starting fluid and compressed air. Worked fine for many years. Prefer to do this outside for ventilation. Fluid mild enough for rubber parts and safe for electric typewriters.
Question......I just bought a Smith Corona clipper that is excellent shape that needs a good cleaning. Can you give me some suggestions of where I can find a manual and a exploded view of this machine on how to work on it or something to that effect. Or direct me to some of your videos that explain this sort of thing. I just found your channel and you seem to know what you are talking about. Thank you!
you can get a fairly comprehensive service manual at www.lulu.com/en/us/shop/ted-munk/the-smith-corona-floating-shift-typewriter-repair-bible/paperback/product-176gd8g2.html?page=1&pageSize=4 but you shouldn’t need that for cleaning. Start with compressed air and some small art brushes, and maybe some odorless mineral spirits & Simple Green. You can also find a wealth of information (including a lot of mostly okay-ish cleaning advice & tips) at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html
@@TypewriterJustice Thank you so much for the info. One other quick question, How can I decipher the serial number to find out how old it is and stuff like that?
@@TheGregWallace you can look it up on typewriterdatabase.com/ you’ll need to select Smith Corona in the serial number box(NOT in the photo gallery search box) then scroll waaaaaaay down to the section with Clipper listings
it depends on what's causing them to hang, and there are quite a few possibilities. the the first step would be to poke around on site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/indexmobile.html and locate the maintenance tips. If you are not comfortable with working on your machine yourself, there is a list of currently operating typewriter repair shops on that same website
I have a machine that was extemely gunked up and with a lot of patience got it working again. Of course, it doesn't look like yours, and smells terribly of oil (much less now), so I'll go for one last round using a non-corrosive product, let it sit for a few minutes and blow it out. It never crossed my mind, as a total amateur, to dunk it. Just by doing some light cleaning I lost a spring (luckily something even I can fix), it's not rational to behave like a professional if you're not one. And with "dead tech", each one you ruin will never be replaced, so better to be conservative.
I have an Erika 10 partially disassembled on my desk at the moment and can't really manage to get the exterior off. I have the platen off and the back and sides, but the exterior seems still stuck. It would be an awesome help if you could give me a hint how you got it off.
Double Stuffs are an abomination, ‘Family Size’ is only accurate for a family of 1, and the milk needs to be cold enough to hurt your fingers...soak ‘em till they’re soggy :)
depending the model & how bad the rust is, the decision is whether t treat the rust in situ or to remove the affected typebars. if you want to do it in situ, get some Naval Jelly(i use Loctite brand) & follow the directions, though you’re going to have to use a wet rag instead of washing the parts. if you want to remove the typebars, i have a video showing a handy trick you might want to employ, can be seen at th-cam.com/video/dMd-DCDzWuA/w-d-xo.html good luck!
Hello @TypewriterJustice, you mentioned "aerosol naphtha" - what brand do you use? I haven't been able to find it anywhere in the interwebs. Does it come in a can? Please advise. Thank you so much for sharing your detailed knowledge. I thank you profusely! :)
m3andros - the most readily available is PB Blaster, which has a few other chemicals in it(and will stink up your house for days) though you should also look into ‘orange degreaser’ cleaners as an alternative. There are excellent options available from LPS, as well as one by WD40 that is useful. Cheers!
TypewriterJustice PB Blaster?!! YACK!!! That’s more a bolt loosener, and it will disintegrate any plastic or rubber parts. Slicker than owl guano and smells like burning tires. It’s more for specialized parts loosener rather than a general cleaner.
We have a citrus based cleaner where I work called Citrol. Its a good cleaner, but you have to rinse it off because if you don't it dries sticky and is worse than loctite.
Weighing the relative virtues of of either chemical, or hydro-washing via submersion, or external deluge have off-setting qualities. While the lacquer thinner/brush/air seems less pervasively invasive it also deals in a far greater-focused accuracy of problem resolution. Working on a dirty machine makes one vulnerable to the vaguer problems that will either hide the cause, or create it. I agree that both methods are time consuming as is the nature of our work anyway. My other concern is the potential surface damage to key pads and imprinted manufacturing labels, or decals. The implications can become more serious relative to the machine's over-all complexity and value. Your videos are always thought provoking & entertaining and very enjoyable even for the novice such as myself. Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
zeebier2 - from the keytops, yes. from the drawstring, maybe...it depends on what it's made from. Sometimes i replace them after cleaning just to be safe.
I know this video is 6 years old. But I would guess that’s a Remington typewriter. Maybe a Quiet Riter? Since you said it’s a trick question I’m not sure anymore 😂 Looks like it would be a Smith and Corona or Royal…. But the keys are thicker. Also, I was about to attempt to submerge my typewriter in my ultrasonic tank. But as they say, there’s no such thing as an easy ride.
it was as Aztec! only tricky because the Aztec is really an Erika rebranded for export :) i sometimes use an ultrasonic with a degreaser/water mix, followed by a clean rinse and an immediate blowout with compressed air, then(most importantly) relubricating with either an oil/naptha bath or a shower in contact cleaner, and then spot oiling with different products as needed. you can get some great results w an ultrasonic, but it can be fairly destructive as well so tread lightly. they can eat paint, devour decals(which shouldn’t get wet anyway) and can even eat chrome. so. be careful LOL
Wow! I would have never guessed 😂 Okay!! Well good/bad news. My current project is shedding paint. It’s falling off every where. So I’m not to concerned about the paint coming off. The issue I’ve been having is finding a maroon lacquer to match the original paint, but my Sherwin-Williams told me the best they could do is a spray paint. I think my best bet now is to use an automotive lacquer that’s as close as possible. But since I’m repainting it anyway, I’ll give you’re suggestions a shot and see how it goes!! Thank you!
@@JamezGrimm if it’s not a huge area, your best bet will be Testors model paints, mix to match it yourself. in a small mixing cup(aka Starbucks lid) would start with about a nickel size dollop of red, then add about three drops of black and one drop of blue - eyeball it from there
Oh it’s a huge area. The entire left side is exposed metal, so is the back. I’ll have to get water slide made as well. But it functions great :D But might as well give your method a shot! Thank you for the tips they really are helping 😂
@@JamezGrimm with that much damaged, you’ll likely be better off with a full repaint. i haven’t checked his stock for your model, but i usually get my waterslides from www.etsy.com/shop/TypewriterDecalShop
@@TypewriterJustice I also don't think I've ever been able to get a typewriter close to as clean as that. De-grimed, to be sure, but still with residue in various parts. Not spic and span like that one.
Squatch Hammer that’s the most readily available one. when used in conjunction with an aerosol degreaser such as the ones offered by WD40 or LPS(and occasional use of lacquer thinner) it can work wonders
Me too! Only, I want one with American QWERTY :) They can be hard to find here in the USA, but the European eBay sites have them fairly often, as does Etsy. Good luck!
neil piper well, strategic parts such as the track and escapement mechanisms will need a very sparing amount, as well as anything strongly sprung such as the shift mechanisms. Sparing use of oil (I use tranny fluid) is the key.
Okay I now see Erika 10 is a no. Bijou? Irene? Ursula? Eureka? Ideal? If non of those answer the trick question, then my final guess is the "no model" typewriter.
Richard Morgan - there are quite a few other products i would use instead; WD40 makes an inexpensive ‘orange’ style degreaser which will work much better and pose a less serious risk to both your machine and your health
TypewriterJustice, thanks, it’s hard to find isopropyl alcohol right now. Which is what I would normally think to use. My sterling could use a good cleaning. 👍🏻
Richard Morgan - isopropyl alcohol has its uses, and i do keep it on my chemical shelf; i hardly ever use it for serious cleaning, and almost never for degreasing because, well, that’s what degreasers are for!! The alcohol may all be gone, but the ‘orange’ degreaser section at the hardware store is just fine :)
Richard Morgan - my pleasure :) one thing i forgot to bring up is WHY i avoid using isopropyl. First off, it has water in it, and any time you introduce water to a mechanical device you are inviting rust; it is easy to soak a still assembled mechanism, but it’s nearly impossible to completely dry one out...which means you are leaving water in some unsuspected locations every time you use it. Second, while alcohol is indeed a good solvent, it tends to evaporate long before getting the job done and there are a range of other products which don’t suffer this same drawback(specifically the aforementioned degreasers)
Proper cleaning requires immersion in a tank that moves the fluid around and through the machine with the proper cleaning fluid (lix with solvent). Full hot water rinse, drain, blow out with compressed air, then full immersion in a oil and solvent bath to displace any remaining water, and blow out again. Then hand oiling with proper machine oil all pivot points. Of course the machines need to be taken apart to the point of rubber removal, case removal, scales that could be damaged, any motors, switches, clutches ect.
The reason full immersion is important is it is the only way to really clean areas that are in close contact. If a machine is dripping with oil as the one mentioned in the video, there is a better chance of getting it reasonably clean since the oil is still fluid. Many times an old machine has oil that has "dried" up or has become gummy. Oil in this stage is not able to be reliably cleaned from all the pivot points with simply blowing solvent through it. It is not a good idea to try to oil over a dirty machine.
Of course working on manual typewriters one might get away with a less thorough cleaning. Electric machines are more problematic, especially the full size office machines such as IBM and Adler that use power rolls to drive the type bars. The cams in these machines need to be very clean to work reliably.
Besides full immersion cleaning on a really dirty machine with old oil the machine will also need the old rubber replaced, any clutches replaced (on electrics) and full adjustment.
I understand this is not necessarily practical for many, especially since as far as I know you cannot get Lix anymore. I am not sure what was in it but it sure did clean office machines nice.
Well as you might guess I used to fix machines professionally. It has been many years ago but I really enjoyed it, especially working on the nicely made machines. You just don't see things made the way the good typewriters were made.
End of the rant.
I couldn’t agree more! There really is no comparison between a properly performed immersion cleaning verses any spot cleaning method, but unfortunately most amateurs & hobbyists don’t have access to the proper equipment, chemicals, and knowledge required for good results via immersion cleaning - hence my message in this video. Time and time again I have seen the horrific results of customers well-intended but misguided attempts at home-dunking, and it breaks my heart every time: melted keytops, ruined paint finishes on small parts which should have been removed but weren’t, residual chemicals that never get removed, etc. The list goes on.
Ideally, immersion cleaning is indeed far superior, but given the scarcity of people properly prepared to perform it as well as the large amount of questions people ask me about it, I felt the need to speak up discouraging folks from attempting it at home. Since the overwhelming majority of typewriters today are seeing occasional recreational use only, it’s most often true that ‘just good enough’ is Good Enough indeed, especially for someone without access to a repair shop who would otherwise ruin their typewriter attempting to dunk-clean it at home when a simple segment flush & spot clean would have gotten them up & running. THOSE are the people this video is aimed at!
Thank you so much for taking the time to speak up, sharing your knowledge and experience! I’ve been repairing/restoring typewriters for well over a decade, but i’m essentially self taught & never received any formal training...just lots of research, long conversations with my betters, and painful trial & error. I dearly wish I could have worked in a repair shop during the height of typewriter use, and i’m always grateful to make the acquaintance of a seasoned typewriter technician - in more ways than one, they just don’t make ‘em like they used to!
Thank you again! God Bless :)
I totally understand where you are coming from. People today want the machine to look good (restored) and to type. Back in the day when the typewriter was a basic tool of the workplace the emphasis was reliability. Once a machine was really dirty and the lube old the only way to assure a reasonable level of reliability was the full "chemical clean" and adjustment.
Besides it is not that it is unacceptable to spray out a machine or spot clean a sticky part if the condition of the machine doesn't warrant a full cleaning. Sometimes there simply wasn't the budget for a full service.
It is really great of you to share your love of typewriters with the masses. @@TypewriterJustice
@@michaelbarnett3721 Can you please tell us what chemicals you suggest we use to perform a thorough cleaning? Charlie doesn't go into the details of what chemicals he actually used. Thanks in advance!
Hello! Loved this video - the machine came out amazing. Forgive me if you already have but would you consider making a video that shows us you actually cleaning a dirty manual like you describe in this video? I have truly been enjoying your videos.
Here's finally one man who's doing justice to typewriters.
LOL! I thought this was titled "Drunk cleaning a typewriter". Still entertaining.
Ana Reinert HA! that’s one i might do some day ;)
@@TypewriterJustice I remember years back when I was repairing typewriters that there were statistics keep on various trades and typewriter repair had one of the highest rates of divorce and alcoholism. I know there have been many a "Drunk cleaning a typewriter" over the years.
@@michaelbarnett3721 - Ha!! i can’t lie, there have been a few machines to make it across my bench aided by a little non-standard lubrication. I’ve always said that the two most important tools to have in ones kit are patience & careful observation, and if those don’t work try coffee with a dollop of Scotch in it :)
Cleaning the way you did was the way most workshops cleaned machines years ago. It was training for the apprentice, using white spirit and a scrubbing brush, in a big tray. These days you can use a good detergent and hot water. We used to take the type bars out as well, they were place on a piece wire in the sequence they came out, we had link boxes to hold the links upright
Nice! I don't have a chemical tank. I did a royal O that I "treated" by pulling the case, and all the rubber, then doused it with two cans of brake cleaner. Worked great! Cool machine there thanks for sharing
Spot on Typewriter Justice, the smaller professional typewriter houses used a tray with a soft brush and cleaning fluid, the lager workshops had cleaning rooms where the machines were pressure sprayed with cleaning fluid(whit spirit with a dash of light clear oil) and left to dry. All machines were stripped feed and bail rolls as well all rubber parts just as you did it...
Can tell by the keys alone this is an Erika 10/11 or an Aztec. One or the other. Very distinctive carriage return lever and of course, the unjammer key on the left side of the keyboard.
Your cleaning looks wonderful. The typewriter looks like a new one.
Could you show the “ hows” of cleaning?
Reuben Dunn just squirt some charcoal starter fluid in around all over, let set a few minutes. Grab you an old toothbrush and be careful about springs etc. squirt some more fluid in to rinse. Spray out the machine with clean air (you may prefer to get some canned air sold in hobby shops or electronic stores. Again, watch springs, adjustments, etc. And that’s pretty much how I clean out typewriters.
Bonjour,
Merci pour cette vidéo.
Également pourriez-vous me dire comment nettoyer le Skaï de la boîte de l’Erika 10 .
Grand merci d’avance et bonne continuation.
Excellent job and brilliantly argued presentation! I would love to have a few more tips, if you could spare them, for a very awkward beginner who's really kinda scared of taking his machines apart and really cleaning them up. About your "contest question," the machine is possibly a Hermes. Cheers!
I know i'm commenting on a super old video but I'm working on the same machine (Aztec rebrand of Erika 10) and I was wondering if you had any advice on removing the outer shell so I can do a good cleaning. I have it loose, removed the key dejamming key but can't figure out how to get it around the carriage. Is this one of those machines that I have to remove the carriage before I can remove the shell?
slide the carriage all the way left, then you can thread the chassis out through the hole in the body; it helps to hold the chassis in the air from below with one hand, then use the other hand to remove the body
@@TypewriterJustice Thank you! I got it off. A little scuffed :( but not its much cleaner and types like a dream. Love this machine!
Can you get aerosol naptha pretty much anywhere? (Sorry... big time novice here) I just got a 1957 Remington Letter-Riter that could use a cleaning.
Can you recommend a aerosol nathpa product. I'd like to try it on a Underwood Noiseless 77. Your approach to cleaning is amazingly good.
A really really bad dirty typewriter I have used charcoal starting fluid and compressed air. Worked fine for many years. Prefer to do this outside for ventilation. Fluid mild enough for rubber parts and safe for electric typewriters.
Wow. That looks absolutely FABULOUS!
Question......I just bought a Smith Corona clipper that is excellent shape that needs a good cleaning. Can you give me some suggestions of where I can find a manual and a exploded view of this machine on how to work on it or something to that effect. Or direct me to some of your videos that explain this sort of thing. I just found your channel and you seem to know what you are talking about. Thank you!
you can get a fairly comprehensive service manual at www.lulu.com/en/us/shop/ted-munk/the-smith-corona-floating-shift-typewriter-repair-bible/paperback/product-176gd8g2.html?page=1&pageSize=4 but you shouldn’t need that for cleaning. Start with compressed air and some small art brushes, and maybe some odorless mineral spirits & Simple Green. You can also find a wealth of information (including a lot of mostly okay-ish cleaning advice & tips) at site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html
@@TypewriterJustice Thank you so much for the info. One other quick question, How can I decipher the serial number to find out how old it is and stuff like that?
@@TheGregWallace you can look it up on typewriterdatabase.com/ you’ll need to select Smith Corona in the serial number box(NOT in the photo gallery search box) then scroll waaaaaaay down to the section with Clipper listings
@@TypewriterJustice Thank you again so much for your help. Talk to you later.
How do you fix hanging keys? (smith-cornoa Sterling). My 2 and 4 doesn't go all the way back up after being pressed.
it depends on what's causing them to hang, and there are quite a few possibilities. the the first step would be to poke around on site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/indexmobile.html and locate the maintenance tips. If you are not comfortable with working on your machine yourself, there is a list of currently operating typewriter repair shops on that same website
I have a machine that was extemely gunked up and with a lot of patience got it working again. Of course, it doesn't look like yours, and smells terribly of oil (much less now), so I'll go for one last round using a non-corrosive product, let it sit for a few minutes and blow it out. It never crossed my mind, as a total amateur, to dunk it. Just by doing some light cleaning I lost a spring (luckily something even I can fix), it's not rational to behave like a professional if you're not one. And with "dead tech", each one you ruin will never be replaced, so better to be conservative.
Can you spray it down with a hose? Mine’s really gunky and stinks
I have an Erika 10 partially disassembled on my desk at the moment and can't really manage to get the exterior off. I have the platen off and the back and sides, but the exterior seems still stuck. It would be an awesome help if you could give me a hint how you got it off.
What are his views on Oreo cookies, milk, and the dunking thereof? 🧐
Double Stuffs are an abomination, ‘Family Size’ is only accurate for a family of 1, and the milk needs to be cold enough to hurt your fingers...soak ‘em till they’re soggy :)
How do you clean type bar that’s rusty but still moves. I got a typewriter from a lady and a mouse lived in it. So I need a little guidance.
depending the model & how bad the rust is, the decision is whether t treat the rust in situ or to remove the affected typebars. if you want to do it in situ, get some Naval Jelly(i use Loctite brand) & follow the directions, though you’re going to have to use a wet rag instead of washing the parts. if you want to remove the typebars, i have a video showing a handy trick you might want to employ, can be seen at th-cam.com/video/dMd-DCDzWuA/w-d-xo.html
good luck!
I'm guessing the contest is over, but it looks like a Smith-Corona Silent or Silent-Super. The green keys. Is that correct? Great video!
Hello @TypewriterJustice, you mentioned "aerosol naphtha" - what brand do you use? I haven't been able to find it anywhere in the interwebs. Does it come in a can? Please advise.
Thank you so much for sharing your detailed knowledge. I thank you profusely! :)
m3andros - the most readily available is PB Blaster, which has a few other chemicals in it(and will stink up your house for days) though you should also look into ‘orange degreaser’ cleaners as an alternative. There are excellent options available from LPS, as well as one by WD40 that is useful. Cheers!
TypewriterJustice PB Blaster?!! YACK!!! That’s more a bolt loosener, and it will disintegrate any plastic or rubber parts. Slicker than owl guano and smells like burning tires. It’s more for specialized parts loosener rather than a general cleaner.
We have a citrus based cleaner where I work called Citrol. Its a good cleaner, but you have to rinse it off because if you don't it dries sticky and is worse than loctite.
Thanks for the info. I'm convinced.
Thanks for these words of wisdom!
Ridiculously clean? Nonsense, no typewriter can ever be too clean😁👌
Can I use some white mineral spirits on a rag to clean the platern? I've read conflicting info online.
Weighing the relative virtues of of either chemical, or hydro-washing via submersion, or external deluge have off-setting qualities. While the lacquer thinner/brush/air seems less pervasively invasive it also deals in a far greater-focused accuracy of problem resolution. Working on a dirty machine makes one vulnerable to the vaguer problems that will either hide the cause, or create it. I agree that both methods are time consuming as is the nature of our work anyway.
My other concern is the potential surface damage to key pads and imprinted manufacturing labels, or decals. The implications can become more serious relative to the machine's over-all complexity and value. Your videos are always thought provoking & entertaining and very enjoyable even for the novice such as myself.
Mike Kirwan - Kenmore, WA
Do you need to keep naptha away from the keytops and pulley string too? That machine is beautifully clean!
zeebier2 - from the keytops, yes. from the drawstring, maybe...it depends on what it's made from. Sometimes i replace them after cleaning just to be safe.
I know this video is 6 years old. But I would guess that’s a Remington typewriter. Maybe a Quiet Riter? Since you said it’s a trick question I’m not sure anymore 😂
Looks like it would be a Smith and Corona or Royal…. But the keys are thicker.
Also, I was about to attempt to submerge my typewriter in my ultrasonic tank. But as they say, there’s no such thing as an easy ride.
it was as Aztec! only tricky because the Aztec is really an Erika rebranded for export :)
i sometimes use an ultrasonic with a degreaser/water mix, followed by a clean rinse and an immediate blowout with compressed air, then(most importantly) relubricating with either an oil/naptha bath or a shower in contact cleaner, and then spot oiling with different products as needed.
you can get some great results w an ultrasonic, but it can be fairly destructive as well so tread lightly. they can eat paint, devour decals(which shouldn’t get wet anyway) and can even eat chrome. so. be careful LOL
Wow! I would have never guessed 😂
Okay!! Well good/bad news. My current project is shedding paint. It’s falling off every where. So I’m not to concerned about the paint coming off.
The issue I’ve been having is finding a maroon lacquer to match the original paint, but my Sherwin-Williams told me the best they could do is a spray paint.
I think my best bet now is to use an automotive lacquer that’s as close as possible.
But since I’m repainting it anyway, I’ll give you’re suggestions a shot and see how it goes!! Thank you!
@@JamezGrimm if it’s not a huge area, your best bet will be Testors model paints, mix to match it yourself. in a small mixing cup(aka Starbucks lid) would start with about a nickel size dollop of red, then add about three drops of black and one drop of blue - eyeball it from there
Oh it’s a huge area. The entire left side is exposed metal, so is the back. I’ll have to get water slide made as well.
But it functions great :D
But might as well give your method a shot! Thank you for the tips they really are helping 😂
@@JamezGrimm with that much damaged, you’ll likely be better off with a full repaint. i haven’t checked his stock for your model, but i usually get my waterslides from www.etsy.com/shop/TypewriterDecalShop
1950's remington typewriter? quiet-riter?
noooope
Never been able to clean a super dirty typewriter in 2 hours. Usually takes me 4-5.
for me it largely depends on how much coffee i’ve had :)
@@TypewriterJustice I also don't think I've ever been able to get a typewriter close to as clean as that. De-grimed, to be sure, but still with residue in various parts. Not spic and span like that one.
So what brand of Naphtha spray? Only one I have found so far is PB blaster
Squatch Hammer that’s the most readily available one. when used in conjunction with an aerosol degreaser such as the ones offered by WD40 or LPS(and occasional use of lacquer thinner) it can work wonders
I want godrej prima typewriting mechanism video please
alas, those are very hard to get here in Texas - i would love to find one someday!
Aztec 14 or the Erika Super?
Aztec 15 would be closer, but still not it
I want an Erika Robotron w/a Spanish keyboard.
Me too! Only, I want one with American QWERTY :) They can be hard to find here in the USA, but the European eBay sites have them fairly often, as does Etsy. Good luck!
It's so clean now it'll wear out quicker.
neil piper well, strategic parts such as the track and escapement mechanisms will need a very sparing amount, as well as anything strongly sprung such as the shift mechanisms. Sparing use of oil (I use tranny fluid) is the key.
Aztec 500. Ah dang too slow.
Is naphtha safe to use on electrics such as an IBM Selectric?
Bronson M. - yep, just make sure to unplug it first ;)
TypewriterJustice Ha, thank you!
Okay I now see Erika 10 is a no. Bijou? Irene? Ursula? Eureka? Ideal? If non of those answer the trick question, then my final guess is the "no model" typewriter.
ohhh it's definitely a particular model...just not a super common one. I wasn't kidding in the video when i said it was a bit of a trick question :)
It's a Remington Quiet-Riter.
My guess is, Optima e14.
nope :)
Smith corona silent 5?
Can I safely use brake cleaner for spray cleaning?
Richard Morgan - there are quite a few other products i would use instead; WD40 makes an inexpensive ‘orange’ style degreaser which will work much better and pose a less serious risk to both your machine and your health
TypewriterJustice, thanks, it’s hard to find isopropyl alcohol right now. Which is what I would normally think to use. My sterling could use a good cleaning. 👍🏻
Richard Morgan - isopropyl alcohol has its uses, and i do keep it on my chemical shelf; i hardly ever use it for serious cleaning, and almost never for degreasing because, well, that’s what degreasers are for!! The alcohol may all be gone, but the ‘orange’ degreaser section at the hardware store is just fine :)
TypewriterJustice thank you I appreciate your help.
Richard Morgan - my pleasure :) one thing i forgot to bring up is WHY i avoid using isopropyl. First off, it has water in it, and any time you introduce water to a mechanical device you are inviting rust; it is easy to soak a still assembled mechanism, but it’s nearly impossible to completely dry one out...which means you are leaving water in some unsuspected locations every time you use it. Second, while alcohol is indeed a good solvent, it tends to evaporate long before getting the job done and there are a range of other products which don’t suffer this same drawback(specifically the aforementioned degreasers)
Olympia SM3 is the kind of typewriter.
nope! it was an Aztec(Erika) either 500 or 700, can’t recall which - still German, but S&N not Olympia :)
@@TypewriterJustice Yeah, I realized it after awhile but still didn't know that it was an Aztec. Good video though. I really enjoyed it. Thanks!
I was thinking Erika 12 as well. Or an Erika 11.
the erika 12 would be close! Think 'Aztec' though
Hey! Is zippo fuel or white vinegar ok to clean too?
Melvorgazh - Zippo fluid is mostly naptha, so it's okay. I would never use vinegar on any machine.
Isn't it Erika mod.10?
Sm8 or 9?
Aztec 15?
that's a later evolution of this exact same machine. VERY close, but no cigar :)
Looks like an Erika Model 10
close, but no banana :)
Amen to no dunking. Erika 11; edited. Kind regards,
close close very close. think 'aztec' though...
This video is a meme
god, i wish
@@TypewriterJustice lol
remmington
Aztec 700
omg soooooooo close!
Olympia SM3
Erika Model 8
nope
Erika 9? Erika 8?
nope and nope.
Biser!!
Erika 10?
very very close
aztec 600 rheinmetall?
definitely not a Rheinmetall, but 'Aztec' is on the right train
Yeah, did think so. Just took a shot in the dark at it.
This is a great catch-all site for typewriter info and repair. Thank you for maintaining it.
my pleasure :) it keeps me out of trouble
Aztec 500
Aztec 500?
NAILED IT -- WE HAVE A WINNER!!
Aztec 700