This is probably the best step by step video that I have seen so far for doing work on cars. The quality of the camera work is great and detail is spot on . I managed to remove and replace turbo no problem . Thanks couldn't have done it with out this video
Martin, your other video has so many bots commenting so I wanted to write this here instead -- your videos regarding getting your accounts back was so helpful. My account was disabled the exact same way. Thanks so much for putting in the time to create those, even though your exact solution didn't work for me, it was enough to see your strategies and hear from someone who went through the same thing.
Thank you so much for probally the best video i have ever seen on removing a Turbo .The level of detail was exceptional with amazing camera work wow !!!!
I done it yesterday on my bmw looking on this video in few hours and the guys at the service want to charge me for 8 hours work. I think I will do it in less than 6 hours with new one back. The best video i ever find on youtube🙏
Your level of detail in this video is incredible, better than any other or any manual, absolutely great!! Will you make more videos of the M47 (for example blanking EGR, downpipe install etc)?
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it! I'm currently in a position where this particular car is being slowly disassembled as I've recently "upgraded" to an e91 auto (still the M47 😄 #obsessed). The plan is to make a "remove" video such as this one, for every major mechanical component - the gearbox, clutch, rear diff, etc It's actually quite funny that you mentioned both downpipe install (for me it will be more like swapping the catalytic converter - which would be 90% the same process) and blanking EGR, as I'm planning on doing both on the e91, so I'll record that for you and do my best to show you how it's done. Thank for your support again! Stay safe.
@@martinlambov that would be great! Its pretty difficult to find tutorials on this engine so it would be ideal if all the tutorials could be found on one channel!
that was just one of the best vids on bmw turbo remove you deserve a hell of allot more like than this good on you mate that was just stunning work great channel pal
What a video! I had always thought that this was an almost impossible task for a diyer like myself but after watching this is actually tackle this myself! Thank you so much for a great detailed video! Good luck! 👍
I did the turbo swap about 5 years on the my E90 M47 320D (at that time, around 140k km on it). Quite difficult the first time around. I found that take the little extra time and remove the power steering belt/pulley/pump made the removal and installation of the turbo much easier. didn't have to disconnect the PS line, just remove the pump and set it aside. I saw that you eventually removed the plastic grid piece that holds the sensor plugs, it'll make removal/installing the V-clamp between DPF and turbo easier. I usually just totally remove the engine brace bars for ease of access. On this particular model, it's ridiculous that you need to remove the whole micro filter housing/brace bar/bunch of plastics just to replace the engine air filter.....
Hi David, thank you for watching the video! I agree 100%, some of the components require you to disassemble so much before you can gain the proper clearance to get to them 😅
@@conquester4890 Yes, e46 330d turbo, 320d 160hp injectors ebay intercooler and charge pipes, egr and dpf removed, currently running 170 hp nice improvement from original 122hp, all ran perfectly until a month ago when i had my tuner set me up with hard cut rev limiter, second time i pressed the throttle car just seized, still don't know what happened
@@Sava.S I’ve got the 320d 2.0L the M57 engine so it 07 plate standard is 163hp had it remapped so is around 200hp, I need to change the turbo and a lot of places won’t take it on because of the work involved, so may do it myself I’ve found a stage 2 hybrid turbo for £650 new a much bigger intercooler that almost x3 size for £220 then I will need a remap to that turbo, I’ve already taken the back box off but don’t want to take the egr and dpf off, after all that it reckons I can get 280hp+
The torx screw at 8min doesn’t have to be removed. It secures the EGR bracket which stays on the engine. We just need to remove the EGR from the bracket. See at 8:51 the bracket is still on the car. (Top right hand corner)
Excellent video, saved me a lot of time and guess work, could not get the jubilee clip off the underside of the turbo (oil pipe) so ended up cutting through the rubber pipe, keep up the good work.
I know what I’m doing as soon as the weather warms up ☺️ I’m assuming you just bolted the new inlet oil feed pipe to the new turbo so that you just have to bolt the one side?
Great video mate. Really helpful. Question. Do you have a gasket between the v band clamp and catalytic converter? Got mine out yesterday and can't see one yet the parts diagrams do
Hi Martin. Great video and clear instructions too. I have an M47 also and have been having a boost issue where as I get no boost before 2000 revs and then it is like Nos... I have taken the actuator completely out still leaving plugged into nto the loom. Locking and unlocking the car doesn't move it or even sound like. Engine running it does move but very little. If arm disconnected from hot side with it pushed all way down you get a hiss sound letting pressure past, pushing all way opposite way hiss stopped and sounded normal. When all is connected with actuator in, it does that hiss sound just car on idle with very little power at low speed
Hi Ben! Thank you for the comment. As far as I know the turbo won't allow any boost if the car is stationary. Couple of things worth checking for you would be the 'linkage arms' similar to mark's comment, over time and heat cycles they can get stuck. The stock map of the M47 usually allows the turbo to build up spooling momentum up to the 1900 - 2000rpm range but if you're experiencing lack of torque then you may have a little boost/exhaust leak too or the turbine shaft could be on its last legs.. Do a quick inspection and look at the boost pipes (the turbo and egr ones to the intercooler) check the side that inserts into the intercooler (via a pressed alloy connector with a reinforced silicone ring) That side usually fails to hold the pressure as the vibration of the engine slowly damages the plastic over the years. Good luck with it and I hope you find what's causing this issue and fix it soon 👍
@@martinlambov whipped the turbo out today, Was quite easy and done everything from above too. I found that the bottom oil line L shape pipe was only fastened by jubilee at one end, the clip was there but not even gripping let alone sealing ! Not sure if that contributed though as it was on there fairly snug. I have srperated the turbine shell and soaked & cleaned as much as I can but the shutters seem to grind against the plate because I can can see it move when manually opening fully (very stiff) I am soaking overnight and of that fails I'm going to get a recon one..
@@snatchwars Good stuff Ben, I'm glad it came out easily! My guesses here a limited but I hope that oil pipe didn't end up starving the turbo from oil and allowing the friction to happen between the turbine impeller and casing.. I would recommend get in touch with a guy called Steven B. on TH-cam (just type m47 turbo refurb in the search box), he has videos on refurbing this type of turbo on your own. He might be able to help you diagnose the problem properly. Good luck!
@@martinlambov I know Steven , he is a world of knowledge ! I have ordered a new turbo and actuator.. I put up a video of my turbo apart , click on my profile 👍
You can remove the turbo by unscrewing the power steering pulley and also the steering pump and move it to the side, this will allow you to get access to all the bolts holding the turbo. The only tricky one is the one underneath as I couldn’t high jack the car. No need to remove the Egr cooler, cooling liquid etc. Give it a try and you will be amazed how easy it is.
Hi Martin, the ideal procedure requires you to drain the oil and flush it once the new turbo is installed. It depends on the reason why your turbo went in the first place but it's generally a good practice to flush it. I've left information in the description about that. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for reply I ended up draining oil when I removed the turbo but im not going to flush it before new oil as loads of bad things about engine flush just waiting for new 1 to be delivered to start the task of putting it back in 😳 did u remove the egr valve altogether or just put something in the pipe to block the exhaust gas coming trough
@@antreaspetrou3896 @Antreas Petrou There's a couple of things to consider before putting in the reconditioned turbo. I don't know the reason of behind your old turbo failing but it's a good start. Investigate to see what caused the turbo failure in the first place. Then, make sure to drain as much of the old oil as possible, get 10L cheaper oil (Manol SAE 5W30 is good - make sure it fits the specs of the engine) to flush the engine after you put the reconditioned turbo. To install it, just follow the video in reverse and also you can use a very thin layer of high temperature gasket sealer to align the gasket that seats between the manifold and the turbo, then it's a matter of precision and torquing the 3 bolts that hold it evenly to apply equal pressure.
In this video, I didn't show how I've "deleted" the egr, I simply removed the EGR cooler and thermostat 8:12 of the video, using the v-band clamp and the rubber hose clamp.
Thanks a million Martin, great tuitional video with such attention to detail! You've made a mammoth task seem do-able even for the likes of myself who is a four month M47 Bimmerginner...Thankyou!! Touch wood though, I'm not in need of doing this procedure right now, but my question is a relative one....Can the Turbo Actuator 'Linkage Arms' be lubricated and free'd up by hand whilst the Turbo is in situ (by releasing and removing Locknut on top of 'Screw Cap'), or does the whole assembly in effect need to be removed as per your video before hand?? I ask as I think my actuator may have started sticking since the cold has set in.....
Thank you for the kind comment Mark! I do appreciate it 👍 In regards to the actuator linkage arms problem.. in my opinion, you have two options. Option A) Removing the turbo is the easiest option here. As for option B) the harder option... The linkage arms are in a very obscure location, between the the hot and cold part of the turbo... using lubricant there would be possible if you buy a long, thin and bendy hose that can reach the location of the linkage arms with the turbo still being mounted. Once the lubricant is applied you can use a software called ISTA+ (part of BMW Suite, which I recommend as a bmw owner) with a K DCAN cable hooked via your car's OBD port to artificially "activate the actuator" which in turns will move the linkage arms. Think of it as telling the ECU to move those 'arms' for you a few times for the lubricant to really get in there (as you don't have physical access to them). I would still go with A) to be honest 😅 but it would require changing your gaskets, v-band clamp, etc Hope this helps. Take it easy 👊
Removing part was easy as i removed the actuator, then the cat, once they were out of way I simply got the turbo out backwards as in I pulled it the way where cat was. Will see if the new turbo with actuator will go back in as a whole rather than separated as I find that dropping coolant is wasteful and it’ll take time to bleed the cooling system. Ps removing it my way took 1.5 hours( would have been quicker if catalytic wasn’t stuck on to exhaust)
very similar, some of the parts are placed at different locations and you might even do it quicker as less parts need to be removed during the procedure ^_^
Един от най-добрите DIY туториали, които съм гледал. Обмислям покупката на е90 163коня. Освен дпф/егр/вихровите клапи/дюзи/турбо/подгревни свещи и релето им, м47 има ли други често срещани проблеми?
Здрасти UnDead BG, радвам се че DIY туториала ти е харесал. Ще гледам да кача още няколко видеа отностно M47 двигателя и точно тези често срещани проблеми. Тези които изброи добре изчерпват листа :D бих казал че турбо тръбите които слизат от турбото и егр към интеркулара са изключително деликатни и често намирам че изпускат бууст. С промяната във времето, топлите и студените цикли - карат малките "пъпки" които държат самите тръби на място да се износват и ако напънеш малко колата, има шанс да ти я изплюе от страната на интеркулара. Ако колата ти влиза често в limp mode това е първото място което бих проверил.
Yes, after get it refurbished (under the warranty) I ended up selling the car for parts but I would highly recommend getting a Garret one as it's more reliable and can withstand more abuse. My e91 automatic has one, same engine, stage 1 remap and difference in torque is ridiculous
@@fsilva2296 In 2006 BMW dropped the Garrett turbos and started using Mitsubishi turbos. There are some physical differences in the layout and configuration of them. Finding Garret turbos is quite a rare find and the turbo upgrade is pricey! With a GTB2260 turbo upgrade you could reach about 290bhp but I've heard people use GT1749V but modify the compressor wheel. The Garrett GTB1756L used in the Alpina D3.. also very rare.. but can comfortably go 250bhp+ There are some options out there for the M47 but it's definitely a costly upgrade.
There might be another way of taking it out but as far as I know this is the most effective way to do it, that allows you to install the new turbo without the need to remove the rocker cover or any other parts for more clearance. During this method, you'll need to drain the oil when turbo is out and once everything gets assembled back replacing the oil and topping up the coolant (blue is recommended for this engine) does the trick.
Why didn’t their technician just use his fucking brain if he had one obviously doesn’t and just have the filter box so it comes out separate so you haven’t gotta take the rocker cover off with the filter box to get the turbo out? How much more rocket science would that have been how much more simple and easier that would’ve been I don’t wanna I’ve got a fuck about with shit like they do shite like this.
This is probably the best step by step video that I have seen so far for doing work on cars. The quality of the camera work is great and detail is spot on . I managed to remove and replace turbo no problem . Thanks couldn't have done it with out this video
Martin, your other video has so many bots commenting so I wanted to write this here instead -- your videos regarding getting your accounts back was so helpful.
My account was disabled the exact same way.
Thanks so much for putting in the time to create those, even though your exact solution didn't work for me, it was enough to see your strategies and hear from someone who went through the same thing.
Thank you so much for probally the best video i have ever seen on removing a Turbo .The level of detail was exceptional with amazing camera work wow !!!!
Thank you for the love Cliff! Glad you liked it. I have a few more in the works which I hope will be useful for us - DIYers 😇 Take care
I done it yesterday on my bmw looking on this video in few hours and the guys at the service want to charge me for 8 hours work. I think I will do it in less than 6 hours with new one back. The best video i ever find on youtube🙏
Incredibly helpful video, couldn’t ask for a better step by step guide. Bravo!
Wow...
It is really in you how to teach...
Been watching clips out there but your teaching are out of this world...
Thank you for the nice comment, I'm glad it's helped you
Great video very clearly explained I’ve got my turbo off just fine following your steps it is the best video by far
Dm him👆👆for any recovery
Your level of detail in this video is incredible, better than any other or any manual, absolutely great!! Will you make more videos of the M47 (for example blanking EGR, downpipe install etc)?
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it!
I'm currently in a position where this particular car is being slowly disassembled as I've recently "upgraded" to an e91 auto (still the M47 😄 #obsessed). The plan is to make a "remove" video such as this one, for every major mechanical component - the gearbox, clutch, rear diff, etc
It's actually quite funny that you mentioned both downpipe install (for me it will be more like swapping the catalytic converter - which would be 90% the same process) and blanking EGR, as I'm planning on doing both on the e91, so I'll record that for you and do my best to show you how it's done. Thank for your support again! Stay safe.
@@martinlambov that would be great! Its pretty difficult to find tutorials on this engine so it would be ideal if all the tutorials could be found on one channel!
@@martinlambov Hey, did you manage to make more of those videos? Interested to look forward as I'm about to disassemble similar e90
What a great video, love that you clearly show and announce the size of each screw, or bolts you've removed. Thank you so much.
A great video. Very well explained and very descriptive. Now you have to upload another video reassembling the turbo !! Great job!!
I managed to get my turbo out without removing the EGR cooler or the coolant hose when I did it on my 118d. Great video, it helped a lot. Thanks.
that was just one of the best vids on bmw turbo remove you deserve a hell of allot more like than this good on you mate that was just stunning work great channel pal
Dm him👆👆for any recovery
Bro your amazing, best video i have seen for a guide like video. Please keep posting vids like this
Thank you for watching it and I'm glad you found it useful ^_^
Thank you for this!! Changed my turbo last week, had a nightmare getting the new one slotted in with the manifold gasket but got there
What a video! I had always thought that this was an almost impossible task for a diyer like myself but after watching this is actually tackle this myself!
Thank you so much for a great detailed video!
Good luck! 👍
You're very welcome! I'm glad it was useful :)
I did the turbo swap about 5 years on the my E90 M47 320D (at that time, around 140k km on it). Quite difficult the first time around. I found that take the little extra time and remove the power steering belt/pulley/pump made the removal and installation of the turbo much easier. didn't have to disconnect the PS line, just remove the pump and set it aside.
I saw that you eventually removed the plastic grid piece that holds the sensor plugs, it'll make removal/installing the V-clamp between DPF and turbo easier.
I usually just totally remove the engine brace bars for ease of access.
On this particular model, it's ridiculous that you need to remove the whole micro filter housing/brace bar/bunch of plastics just to replace the engine air filter.....
Hi David, thank you for watching the video! I agree 100%, some of the components require you to disassemble so much before you can gain the proper clearance to get to them 😅
I plan to do a turbo upgrade in the summer and oh god this will be a pain in the ass 😭
Thank you for this great explanation
Did you do it after?? I was thinking of getting a hybrid stage 2 for mine and then my turbo blew couple days ago so I’m definitely doing it now
@@conquester4890 Yes, e46 330d turbo, 320d 160hp injectors ebay intercooler and charge pipes, egr and dpf removed, currently running 170 hp nice improvement from original 122hp, all ran perfectly until a month ago when i had my tuner set me up with hard cut rev limiter, second time i pressed the throttle car just seized, still don't know what happened
@@conquester4890 I recommend you going for it, just do it properly and no worries
@@Sava.S I’ve got the 320d 2.0L the M57 engine so it 07 plate standard is 163hp had it remapped so is around 200hp, I need to change the turbo and a lot of places won’t take it on because of the work involved, so may do it myself I’ve found a stage 2 hybrid turbo for £650 new a much bigger intercooler that almost x3 size for £220 then I will need a remap to that turbo, I’ve already taken the back box off but don’t want to take the egr and dpf off, after all that it reckons I can get 280hp+
@@Sava.S what size engine is yours??
Great video, would add that dropping the PAS pump and bracket down make removal and replacement sooooo much easier.
Incredibly helpful, I also took my fan out for that little bit extra room in the front
You should get Oscar🎥🏆. Thanks it is more work as i really thought😂 . I dont know if I get this out in 30 Minute😂
Thank you soo much from France , I was about to remove mine, those advices were needed!!
Thank you so much! Worked for me without taking off the EGR cooler.
Great step by step video will be using it to replace mine
The torx screw at 8min doesn’t have to be removed. It secures the EGR bracket which stays on the engine. We just need to remove the EGR from the bracket.
See at 8:51 the bracket is still on the car. (Top right hand corner)
This is a very best presentation , it helped me
Excellent video, saved me a lot of time and guess work, could not get the jubilee clip off the underside of the turbo (oil pipe) so ended up cutting through the rubber pipe, keep up the good work.
Hi Steve! I'm glad the video was helpful :)
so removing the thermostat will make more clearance?
Great complete video. Thanks. Wait for more video on m47 bmw
Without that vid I would be a poor man. Thanks!!!
On the M47 is the Mitsubishi Turbo or the Garret one?
So i have a problem where i cant access the intake pipe clamp on the turbo, i cant loosen or tighten i cant get my fingers even near it
Very helpful , removed my turbo watching your step by step guide , thank you 👍
Best auto tips video I've ever seen thanks
Thank you kindly! I'm glad it's helpful 😊
I know what I’m doing as soon as the weather warms up ☺️ I’m assuming you just bolted the new inlet oil feed pipe to the new turbo so that you just have to bolt the one side?
This is so well presented thank you I feel I can tackle mine! Thanks
Great video mate. Really helpful.
Question. Do you have a gasket between the v band clamp and catalytic converter? Got mine out yesterday and can't see one yet the parts diagrams do
Bloody brilliant well done . Shouĺd do this professionally. Link up with a turbocompany . You should list suppliers.
Hi Martin.
Great video and clear instructions too.
I have an M47 also and have been having a boost issue where as I get no boost before 2000 revs and then it is like Nos...
I have taken the actuator completely out still leaving plugged into nto the loom.
Locking and unlocking the car doesn't move it or even sound like.
Engine running it does move but very little.
If arm disconnected from hot side with it pushed all way down you get a hiss sound letting pressure past, pushing all way opposite way hiss stopped and sounded normal.
When all is connected with actuator in, it does that hiss sound just car on idle with very little power at low speed
Hi Ben! Thank you for the comment. As far as I know the turbo won't allow any boost if the car is stationary. Couple of things worth checking for you would be the 'linkage arms' similar to mark's comment, over time and heat cycles they can get stuck. The stock map of the M47 usually allows the turbo to build up spooling momentum up to the 1900 - 2000rpm range but if you're experiencing lack of torque then you may have a little boost/exhaust leak too or the turbine shaft could be on its last legs.. Do a quick inspection and look at the boost pipes (the turbo and egr ones to the intercooler) check the side that inserts into the intercooler (via a pressed alloy connector with a reinforced silicone ring) That side usually fails to hold the pressure as the vibration of the engine slowly damages the plastic over the years.
Good luck with it and I hope you find what's causing this issue and fix it soon 👍
@@martinlambov whipped the turbo out today,
Was quite easy and done everything from above too.
I found that the bottom oil line L shape pipe was only fastened by jubilee at one end, the clip was there but not even gripping let alone sealing ! Not sure if that contributed though as it was on there fairly snug.
I have srperated the turbine shell and soaked & cleaned as much as I can but the shutters seem to grind against the plate because I can can see it move when manually opening fully (very stiff)
I am soaking overnight and of that fails I'm going to get a recon one..
@@snatchwars Good stuff Ben, I'm glad it came out easily! My guesses here a limited but I hope that oil pipe didn't end up starving the turbo from oil and allowing the friction to happen between the turbine impeller and casing.. I would recommend get in touch with a guy called Steven B. on TH-cam (just type m47 turbo refurb in the search box), he has videos on refurbing this type of turbo on your own. He might be able to help you diagnose the problem properly. Good luck!
@@martinlambov I know Steven , he is a world of knowledge !
I have ordered a new turbo and actuator..
I put up a video of my turbo apart , click on my profile 👍
Brilliant demonstration
Doesnt need emptying the ac gas ?
I've did, this days same work us you describe on video ,thx it helped me a lot .
Best video iv seen nice one
Nice video, really good explaination!! Thankss💪🏻
Does anybody know what method to use to remove the wiring loom shown at 9.45? I can't see how it unclips. Thanks
Nice Video! I have same car and I have posted some M47 videos, I will follow this one if I need to replace my turbo. Thanks and regards from Spain!
Hola mi amigo! Thank you for your kind comment all the way from Spain :)
Wanted to use this tutorial for my e46 but your engine is a late version fitted in e90, usually they had n47
You can remove the turbo by unscrewing the power steering pulley and also the steering pump and move it to the side, this will allow you to get access to all the bolts holding the turbo. The only tricky one is the one underneath as I couldn’t high jack the car. No need to remove the Egr cooler, cooling liquid etc. Give it a try and you will be amazed how easy it is.
I'm planning to do this on my e46 m57tud20 150hp. Hopefully it will be similar to this.
How mny hours does it take for u total? Thx
Very Helpful Thanks...taking out is the easy part..putting back yeah😅
Very helpful vid m8, today Im gonna do the same :( thanks for all tips!
Great Job!!!
Great tutorial!
Quite interesting I'm learning how to fix my own E46 to save costs
U are a Master !! now a kid can disassemble a turbo ! haha
I wonder if it is the same on my 2004 320d e46 m47N? your guide is very very good no matter what
Thank you. I recommend comparing the layout of the engine bay and as long as it matches, the process will be 80-90% the same.
Hi great video will I need to drain the oil before attempting the turbo removal or can I remove it with oil still in engine thanks
Hi Martin, the ideal procedure requires you to drain the oil and flush it once the new turbo is installed. It depends on the reason why your turbo went in the first place but it's generally a good practice to flush it. I've left information in the description about that. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for reply I ended up draining oil when I removed the turbo but im not going to flush it before new oil as loads of bad things about engine flush just waiting for new 1 to be delivered to start the task of putting it back in 😳 did u remove the egr valve altogether or just put something in the pipe to block the exhaust gas coming trough
Dm him👆👆for any recovery
Hi Martin got my self a reconditioned turbo where do the washer especially the small ones thanks bmw 320d 2006
Hi Antreas, thank you watching the video! The locations the washers you can find shown on the diagram that I've included at 10:40 of the video.
@@martinlambov thanks 👍do you have any videos on how to fit a turbo any tips 🔧
@@antreaspetrou3896 @Antreas Petrou There's a couple of things to consider before putting in the reconditioned turbo. I don't know the reason of behind your old turbo failing but it's a good start. Investigate to see what caused the turbo failure in the first place. Then, make sure to drain as much of the old oil as possible, get 10L cheaper oil (Manol SAE 5W30 is good - make sure it fits the specs of the engine) to flush the engine after you put the reconditioned turbo.
To install it, just follow the video in reverse and also you can use a very thin layer of high temperature gasket sealer to align the gasket that seats between the manifold and the turbo, then it's a matter of precision and torquing the 3 bolts that hold it evenly to apply equal pressure.
Really good video Really helpful thanks
Vielen Dank für perfekt Erklärte Video. 👍👌Weiter so.
danke mein freund!
Also how did u block off the egr valve
In this video, I didn't show how I've "deleted" the egr, I simply removed the EGR cooler and thermostat 8:12 of the video, using the v-band clamp and the rubber hose clamp.
Dm him👆👆for any recovery
Friendly tip, flush your coolant system and change the coolant to blue g11 like febi billstein. G12 can cause serious problems
Thanks a million Martin, great tuitional video with such attention to detail! You've made a mammoth task seem do-able even for the likes of myself who is a four month M47 Bimmerginner...Thankyou!! Touch wood though, I'm not in need of doing this procedure right now, but my question is a relative one....Can the Turbo Actuator 'Linkage Arms' be lubricated and free'd up by hand whilst the Turbo is in situ (by releasing and removing Locknut on top of 'Screw Cap'), or does the whole assembly in effect need to be removed as per your video before hand?? I ask as I think my actuator may have started sticking since the cold has set in.....
Thank you for the kind comment Mark! I do appreciate it 👍
In regards to the actuator linkage arms problem.. in my opinion, you have two options.
Option A) Removing the turbo is the easiest option here.
As for option B) the harder option...
The linkage arms are in a very obscure location, between the the hot and cold part of the turbo... using lubricant there would be possible if you buy a long, thin and bendy hose that can reach the location of the linkage arms with the turbo still being mounted.
Once the lubricant is applied you can use a software called ISTA+ (part of BMW Suite, which I recommend as a bmw owner) with a K DCAN cable hooked via your car's OBD port to artificially "activate the actuator" which in turns will move the linkage arms. Think of it as telling the ECU to move those 'arms' for you a few times for the lubricant to really get in there (as you don't have physical access to them).
I would still go with A) to be honest 😅 but it would require changing your gaskets, v-band clamp, etc
Hope this helps. Take it easy 👊
Removing part was easy as i removed the actuator, then the cat, once they were out of way I simply got the turbo out backwards as in I pulled it the way where cat was. Will see if the new turbo with actuator will go back in as a whole rather than separated as I find that dropping coolant is wasteful and it’ll take time to bleed the cooling system. Ps removing it my way took 1.5 hours( would have been quicker if catalytic wasn’t stuck on to exhaust)
im scared im going to get it out, then have no idea how to re assemble it
Excellent video - Thanks
Great video 👍
Why you removed turbo? Seems fine 😬
Great video, but too complicated for me 😅
Is this the same proses as a e46 320d
very similar, some of the parts are placed at different locations and you might even do it quicker as less parts need to be removed during the procedure ^_^
Fantastic video
Един от най-добрите DIY туториали, които съм гледал. Обмислям покупката на е90 163коня. Освен дпф/егр/вихровите клапи/дюзи/турбо/подгревни свещи и релето им, м47 има ли други често срещани проблеми?
Здрасти UnDead BG, радвам се че DIY туториала ти е харесал. Ще гледам да кача още няколко видеа отностно M47 двигателя и точно тези често срещани проблеми. Тези които изброи добре изчерпват листа :D бих казал че турбо тръбите които слизат от турбото и егр към интеркулара са изключително деликатни и често намирам че изпускат бууст. С промяната във времето, топлите и студените цикли - карат малките "пъпки" които държат самите тръби на място да се износват и ако напънеш малко колата, има шанс да ти я изплюе от страната на интеркулара. Ако колата ти влиза често в limp mode това е първото място което бих проверил.
what a champ!! tnx man
On my bmw 320d e90 m47 '06 there was no need to remove anything related to coolant.
If you have enough experience you can skip a few steps :)
And i didnt went under the car for removing the turbo.
I want to add that my car has a different dpf and it doesn't have an electric actuator.
Nice vídeo ! What was the problem of this turbo? Is a Mitsubishi turbo?
The actuator went on it
Yes, after get it refurbished (under the warranty) I ended up selling the car for parts but I would highly recommend getting a Garret one as it's more reliable and can withstand more abuse. My e91 automatic has one, same engine, stage 1 remap and difference in torque is ridiculous
@@martinlambov Garret is top! But wich one is compatible with our BMW m47 ? Thanks
@@fsilva2296 In 2006 BMW dropped the Garrett turbos and started using Mitsubishi turbos. There are some physical differences in the layout and configuration of them. Finding Garret turbos is quite a rare find and the turbo upgrade is pricey!
With a GTB2260 turbo upgrade you could reach about 290bhp but I've heard people use GT1749V but modify the compressor wheel. The Garrett GTB1756L used in the Alpina D3.. also very rare.. but can comfortably go 250bhp+
There are some options out there for the M47 but it's definitely a costly upgrade.
I will be removing my turbo this week, I appreciate this video sir 🙏
You are great. Thanks so much
Actually this was i very helpfull video.
I'm glad it helped you ^_^
isn't it easier to do it from bottom ?
Thank you! 🙏
wouldn't be easier the get to the clamp from below?
There might be another way of taking it out but as far as I know this is the most effective way to do it, that allows you to install the new turbo without the need to remove the rocker cover or any other parts for more clearance. During this method, you'll need to drain the oil when turbo is out and once everything gets assembled back replacing the oil and topping up the coolant (blue is recommended for this engine) does the trick.
Muito obrigado pelo vídeo,
Thank you.
Great! 👍
great
Clever
Can u come and do mine.
Dm him👆👆for any recovery
Why didn’t their technician just use his fucking brain if he had one obviously doesn’t and just have the filter box so it comes out separate so you haven’t gotta take the rocker cover off with the filter box to get the turbo out? How much more rocket science would that have been how much more simple and easier that would’ve been I don’t wanna I’ve got a fuck about with shit like they do shite like this.
Great complete video. Thanks. Wait for more video on m47 bmw