Continually impressed with your dedication and craftsmanship of this project, I couldn't imagine a harder task to master than compound curves in sheet metal - the final result will be worth all of the effort!
The video shows great progress.I could see the enormous amount of time taken to remove, wheel and refit the panels. Well done. Best wishes from the UK.
Took far longer than I expected. The other issue is on those longer welds keeping the two sides of the panel level. The heat will make one side lift more than the other. So I needed to keep stopping to move clamps to do the tacks to hold it all together. I should get some of those little square welding clamps you use to hold sheet metal together I think. Butterfly clamps I think they are called. Something else you can get cheap overseas but cost a lot more here. 2 or 3 times buying direct from China for the exact same thing. They even use the same pictures advertising them here!
I think the biggest thing I've learned from your channel is if I lived in your country I would be in the poor house. That cost spread sheet is frightening! You always impress me with your stick to attitude. Take it easy
the good thing is when i go home to visit family in N.Z is the exchange rate U.S. TO N.Z $ but believe me i get sticker shock when i see the prices , pretty incredible
I still wonder if the shape is right. It is much more rounded in real life than in CAD/on paper. The racing bodies without doors were definitely much flatter. I am guessing they were much faster and easier to make.
Looking good Simon your wheeling skills are very good. I'v kept all the bills for my car but dont have the courage to add it all up, and as its still not finished yet ( and will always need some thing ) so it wouldn't be a accurate coast. You could call it living in denial which is true but for me I'm happier not knowing. PS If it helps , I think my wiring loom for my MG TC was about £300 quid from Auto Sparks
Not sure I would say good yet but definitely improving with practice. I actually find that a bit annoying, knowing that I could get really good at something if it were something I was doing all the time. I have all the bills in a box too. I did that with my Austin 7 as well then when it came time to add it all up it was too much work to go through it all. So with the Riley I thought do it from the start. I have all the actual receipts in a big box too of course. So of that is in case they ask when I get the car certified. I doubt they will but they might want to know the fuel line is proper fuel line and so on. The cost of wiring/looms is actually cheaper than I thought. I didn't think the cost of the wire was too bad. Apparently mine should be delivered today.
It's coming together well. Is there anything that Riley put between the panels and frame to dampen vibration a bit & prevent drumming? I'm thinking about the flat woven stuff (is it a thick canvas tape?) that goes around the radiator surround that the bonnet sits on...
That's a good question. I am not sure with Riley. I know in Austin 7s they used felt strips between chassis and body but not being water proof that caused more issues that it solved so people now use other things or make sure the felt is well soaked in something like oil or wax first. I think most people use modern materials. I do have the woven bonnet lace stuff. Even that comes in different types. One sort I got was plain and another lot was wax or grease impregnated.
Or an FJ Edwards. Any of the old school cast machines would be nice. Even when they do come up they aren't cheap and also moving them is a right pain in the neck! Pretty sure stiffening the spine of mine would help.
Continually impressed with your dedication and craftsmanship of this project, I couldn't imagine a harder task to master than compound curves in sheet metal - the final result will be worth all of the effort!
The video shows great progress.I could see the enormous amount of time taken to remove, wheel and refit the panels. Well done. Best wishes from the UK.
Took far longer than I expected. The other issue is on those longer welds keeping the two sides of the panel level. The heat will make one side lift more than the other. So I needed to keep stopping to move clamps to do the tacks to hold it all together. I should get some of those little square welding clamps you use to hold sheet metal together I think. Butterfly clamps I think they are called. Something else you can get cheap overseas but cost a lot more here. 2 or 3 times buying direct from China for the exact same thing. They even use the same pictures advertising them here!
I think the biggest thing I've learned from your channel is if I lived in your country I would be in the poor house. That cost spread sheet is frightening! You always impress me with your stick to attitude. Take it easy
Well, I have to stick with it now, you've seen how much money and time has gone into it! Getting close to the end now I hope.
the good thing is when i go home to visit family in N.Z is the exchange rate U.S. TO N.Z $ but believe me i get sticker shock when i see the prices , pretty incredible
Outstanding rebuild
More a build than a rebuild I guess for the body at least since I started with nothing. But the mechanicals/engine are all rebuilt period Riley.
Such a challenging shape, but it's starting to look really good! Great to see you back motivated 👍
I still wonder if the shape is right. It is much more rounded in real life than in CAD/on paper. The racing bodies without doors were definitely much flatter. I am guessing they were much faster and easier to make.
Looking good Simon your wheeling skills are very good.
I'v kept all the bills for my car but dont have the courage to add it all up, and as its still not finished yet ( and will always need some thing ) so it wouldn't be a accurate coast. You could call it living in denial which is true but for me I'm happier not knowing.
PS If it helps , I think my wiring loom for my MG TC was about £300 quid from Auto Sparks
Not sure I would say good yet but definitely improving with practice. I actually find that a bit annoying, knowing that I could get really good at something if it were something I was doing all the time. I have all the bills in a box too. I did that with my Austin 7 as well then when it came time to add it all up it was too much work to go through it all. So with the Riley I thought do it from the start. I have all the actual receipts in a big box too of course. So of that is in case they ask when I get the car certified. I doubt they will but they might want to know the fuel line is proper fuel line and so on. The cost of wiring/looms is actually cheaper than I thought. I didn't think the cost of the wire was too bad. Apparently mine should be delivered today.
It's coming together well. Is there anything that Riley put between the panels and frame to dampen vibration a bit & prevent drumming? I'm thinking about the flat woven stuff (is it a thick canvas tape?) that goes around the radiator surround that the bonnet sits on...
That's a good question. I am not sure with Riley. I know in Austin 7s they used felt strips between chassis and body but not being water proof that caused more issues that it solved so people now use other things or make sure the felt is well soaked in something like oil or wax first. I think most people use modern materials. I do have the woven bonnet lace stuff. Even that comes in different types. One sort I got was plain and another lot was wax or grease impregnated.
You need a Ranalah wheeling machine
Or an FJ Edwards. Any of the old school cast machines would be nice. Even when they do come up they aren't cheap and also moving them is a right pain in the neck! Pretty sure stiffening the spine of mine would help.
@@asciimationdon’t forget to reinforce the bottom arm at the same time!
@@Phil-y3x Yes, good point! Most people seem to triangulate all three sides of the machine which makes sense.
Bla bla bla... Ma non fai vedere quando lavori.