I have done the same thing you are attempting. The big issues that I had was overheating the alternator and setting the correct charge profile. I had to disassemble the alternator and remove the internal regulation. I regulated it using an Arduino so I could set the charge rate and voltage limits. I also did a lot of testing with different size pulleys and engine RPM to determine the maximum efficiency. Deep cycle batteries have different requirements than starting batteries
So far the alternator thankfully is not overheating. I have touched the case multiple times after running with it only being really warm to the touch. So my best bet would be to get a externally regulated alternator and run it through an adjustable converter or something else? Are there alternators that don't require any extra stuff from factory or do they all need to be externally regulated with something adjustable?
@@TylerCreates I worry about making my comment too complex to follow. You can tear apart the alternator and modify it to be externally regulated. They do make off the shelf externally regulated alternators however its pretty easy to just modify what you have. I don't wanna get too into the weeds in the comment section here however I used an Arduino with a hall effect current sensor to measure the current and a voltage divider to measure the voltage. I programmed the arduino to apply field voltage until either the current limit was reached or the voltage limit was reached. I had a whole charging profile programmed in to maintain the C/5 charge rate.
@@TylerCreates FYI - My idea with creating the DC generator was that since I was off-grid all the power I would be using would be DC. This plan quickly evaporated when I came to the realization that its pointless to fight using the inverter. Now I charge with an Iota DLS90 charger and my Outback VFXR using a Honda EU3000 generator. The Iota runs full bore (90 amps) charging and the outback puts in whatever it can balancing the loads/charging with the 15 amps of generator power I let it have. The outback knows the limits of the generator and will assist it if something larger than it can run starts. Everything you buy, everything "normal", all runs on 120v. I fought it and fought it but sooner or later it gets old and you just wanna have "normal" power.
@@TylerCreates Don't let what I've said stop you from learning though. I had a BLAST learning about batteries/charging/alternators/programming/electronics design/engine controls.... etc. If you look on my channel there are even old videos of me testing a servo control I setup to automate the throttle/choke on the engine. If you have a variable power supply you can feed the field and control it manually. You could get a 20 dollar ebay adjustable power supply and go to town. I will warn you to monitor the voltage to make sure you don't boil the battery to bits and I would take a while to study the charge profile of the batteries you intend on using.
Once you go LiFePO4 you never go back. For off-grid nothing beats being able to slam in every single watt you can full force right up to 99% full. Being able to use ALL of the battery and not being limited to 50% like lead acids. Not having to listen to a generator drone on for hours so the solar has a chance to equalize the cells (wasting precious fuel AND solar). Hell having to worry about equalization and charge state at all. If my batteries haven't been full in 3 weeks it matters not and I can continue using for weeks in the 30%-70% range without even a thought. Having to refill lead acids with water and having them offgas. yeah... I don't miss lead acids at all
You are not spinning that alternator very fast. Power in is "equivalent" to power out. One horsepower in from the engine will deliver 746 Watts of electric power. and you get about 70% efficiencyso you got the results you should have. Get som spec's on the alternator, and be sure you are wired up for correct control. You need to get that engine running at more like 2500RPM to get more mechanical energy into the alternator. I built something like this and I had to put a street elbow on the engin, and get the exhaust up away from the engine. Mine was sucking hot exhaust gas back in and adding heat to the engine cooling air, and the intake air. Made it run REAL badly. Lots of fun for an engineer to puzzle out the bugs, If you're not an engineer, I understand your frustration. keep solving problems, and you'll get there! Blessings on you.
Engine rpm does not change my amps output. I have tried multiple times going from idling at around 3-4 amps up to a higher rpm with zero change in amps maybe even less amps. I think the the internal regulation is not allowing for more amp flow.
I have done the same thing you are attempting. The big issues that I had was overheating the alternator and setting the correct charge profile. I had to disassemble the alternator and remove the internal regulation. I regulated it using an Arduino so I could set the charge rate and voltage limits. I also did a lot of testing with different size pulleys and engine RPM to determine the maximum efficiency. Deep cycle batteries have different requirements than starting batteries
So far the alternator thankfully is not overheating. I have touched the case multiple times after running with it only being really warm to the touch. So my best bet would be to get a externally regulated alternator and run it through an adjustable converter or something else? Are there alternators that don't require any extra stuff from factory or do they all need to be externally regulated with something adjustable?
@@TylerCreates I worry about making my comment too complex to follow. You can tear apart the alternator and modify it to be externally regulated. They do make off the shelf externally regulated alternators however its pretty easy to just modify what you have. I don't wanna get too into the weeds in the comment section here however I used an Arduino with a hall effect current sensor to measure the current and a voltage divider to measure the voltage. I programmed the arduino to apply field voltage until either the current limit was reached or the voltage limit was reached. I had a whole charging profile programmed in to maintain the C/5 charge rate.
@@TylerCreates FYI - My idea with creating the DC generator was that since I was off-grid all the power I would be using would be DC. This plan quickly evaporated when I came to the realization that its pointless to fight using the inverter. Now I charge with an Iota DLS90 charger and my Outback VFXR using a Honda EU3000 generator. The Iota runs full bore (90 amps) charging and the outback puts in whatever it can balancing the loads/charging with the 15 amps of generator power I let it have. The outback knows the limits of the generator and will assist it if something larger than it can run starts. Everything you buy, everything "normal", all runs on 120v. I fought it and fought it but sooner or later it gets old and you just wanna have "normal" power.
@@TylerCreates Don't let what I've said stop you from learning though. I had a BLAST learning about batteries/charging/alternators/programming/electronics design/engine controls.... etc. If you look on my channel there are even old videos of me testing a servo control I setup to automate the throttle/choke on the engine. If you have a variable power supply you can feed the field and control it manually. You could get a 20 dollar ebay adjustable power supply and go to town. I will warn you to monitor the voltage to make sure you don't boil the battery to bits and I would take a while to study the charge profile of the batteries you intend on using.
Two 6V Trojan Deep Cycle Batteries will out perform two 12V Deep Cycle Batteries.
Once you go LiFePO4 you never go back. For off-grid nothing beats being able to slam in every single watt you can full force right up to 99% full. Being able to use ALL of the battery and not being limited to 50% like lead acids. Not having to listen to a generator drone on for hours so the solar has a chance to equalize the cells (wasting precious fuel AND solar). Hell having to worry about equalization and charge state at all. If my batteries haven't been full in 3 weeks it matters not and I can continue using for weeks in the 30%-70% range without even a thought. Having to refill lead acids with water and having them offgas. yeah... I don't miss lead acids at all
You are not spinning that alternator very fast. Power in is "equivalent" to power out. One horsepower in from the engine will deliver 746 Watts of electric power. and you get about 70% efficiencyso you got the results you should have. Get som spec's on the alternator, and be sure you are wired up for correct control. You need to get that engine running at more like 2500RPM to get more mechanical energy into the alternator. I built something like this and I had to put a street elbow on the engin, and get the exhaust up away from the engine. Mine was sucking hot exhaust gas back in and adding heat to the engine cooling air, and the intake air. Made it run REAL badly. Lots of fun for an engineer to puzzle out the bugs, If you're not an engineer, I understand your frustration. keep solving problems, and you'll get there! Blessings on you.
Engine rpm does not change my amps output. I have tried multiple times going from idling at around 3-4 amps up to a higher rpm with zero change in amps maybe even less amps. I think the the internal regulation is not allowing for more amp flow.