Episode 70 Part 2 Seamless floor pan installation, 1965--70 Mustang, Autorestomod
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- We finish the installation of the National Parts Depot Mustang floor pan in our weekend project 1968 Mustang hardtop! In this episode we only replace the sections needed. Gary Jackson shows how to cut, weld, and grind a pan for a seamless repair that will give a factory look without using the full pan. This method will also be easier due to less welding and grinding.
Sponsor: National Parts Depot
Mentions:
www.mustangcent...
www.nationalpar...
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
We have always cut out what was rusty, trimmed the panel down to a too large a size (covers the hole) and used spray paint (or weldable primer) to mark the exact dimensions of the patch then cut the new metal to size. We hen used welding magnets to hold the new panel to the old panel and started welding...wow, that typed out so much easier than it is to do...
I like all that fireproof cardboard.
POR15 will get down in any voids on the welding inside the cab and keep the panel nice and clean. Welds also tend to rust more readily than plain sheet metal. We are also using the POR 15 on areas that had light rust on them.
Great job Gary 👍
Gary is an artist!
Yeah, he has used that set up for a long while Aaron with good success.
Thanks for the kind words. Plug welding is the best way to keep heat and warping down so we do recommend doing that all the way around.
I'm not an expert, but I think you guys have your terminology wrong? The plug welds is where he welded the pieces together through the drilled out holes. Then he butt welded the seam of the over lapping panels with a series of tack welds.
Our best advice is to go to a welding supply shop and talk to a rep. You CAN get a cheap welder and deal with epic frustration or spend a bit of money on a beginner Miller or Lincoln and have a welder that will last you years with good service. A rep (a good one) will show you what you need.
Great video. Very informative. Its definitely a video I'm going to watch a lot when I finally get to doing my floors in my grand wagoneer.
Impressive end result.
Good stuff! Gary is a beast!
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat--it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is military spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.
The primer will act as a rust preventative until we can get to the Lizard Skin sound deadener. The Lizard Skin will effectively seal the pan.
Thank you so much. You are making my life a smooth ride
Nice repair and looks undetectable from underneath.
Yes. They will use that for tight areas.
Well normally we would do that sort of thing on a full bore restoration. But this car is complete and a cruise-in car and we don't want to rip into it that deeply. We wanted to show that a repair like this could be done without tearing the whole interior out.
Use of spray paint to mark the butt weld edge - genius. I've been struggling with a Sharpie :-s
Wow, the Sharpe has it's place in auto-body but no there. Yeah that one had us saying the same thing.
I needed to see this! Great educational video. Thanks guys!
I have only removed lead so far but what I have learnt is the youtube videos are more informative then the Dvd from eastwoods but is good to watch anyway just for research
great vid. I primer then seam seal though. no need to use filler, it's covered will promote rust and crack. my. I think they used an undercoating though before the seam sealer so I should look into that as well. some undercoatings won't let things adhere so it's likely a rust proofing that promotes adhesion. like they say hammer every weld and get those seems close it a must. pro work here. I also dig the cardboard everywhere possible. thumb up
We might do a leading video some day but so far our experience with the stuff has been mixed. One side of the '67 looks great and the other needs to be redone...That lets us know it isn't the product it is the operator.
Gary is a good welder.
OK, thank’s for your answer. I take it as, the method saves time, but there is no disadvantage to welding edge-to-edge.
No none at all. On a Camaro there is no frame rail like those on a Mustang and so that time savings goes out the window.
Yep, Body Schutz. This is if it is NOT a Concours car. The factory only used Schutz in certain areas. Be sure to consult assembly manuals for your model for instructions on Schutz locations if you are doing a Concours car.
Welding creates sparks that can damage the headliner, carpet, seats and dash. The cardboard keeps the sparks from getting on these areas and damaging them.
safety tip: when grinding fiber glass or other debris areas, the paper mask will not stop particles, you will need a more serious respirator that stops debris, like an asbestos mask 30$ from home depot , each cartridge is only good for about 12- 20 hours of continuous use then they need to be replaced.you dont want this stuff in your lungs. happy grinding.
Very useful info. Thank you.
Brilliantly done!
LOL yes. Gary doesn't believe in wasting consumables. Where we would have pitched it the guys at Mustang Central use everything to within an inch of it's life... or less in the case of the cut off wheels.
Get a copy of HP books Welding and check on what wire size you should use. But yes the Flux Core should work famously. Do your self a favor and get some scrap in the same gauge metal as your floors and practice. The repops can get expensive.
Cool video. Liked it
keep it up guys. this is my fave youtube channel. Gonna look through your videos to find a two point seatbelt installation video for my 61 tbird....I can't figure out where to drill!
+Jonathan Knight Thanks for the kind words! We haven't done one on the bird, but we ave done one on the '67 Mustang Fastback and custom setup on the '69 Fairlane wagon. th-cam.com/video/_QBpHVZJ5F8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/D1hDcbaGxWE/w-d-xo.html
awsome. learn quiet a bit i took a two year course buuit they never covered floor pans.
cool show, thanks for the info
Original Parts Group carries some stuff for the Monte, try them.
Monte Enlacalle, According to Jeff, Mustang Central charges around $1,100 for a set of floor pans. But you should contact them to be sure; Jeff's memory ain't what it used to be...
Probably i will never understand why, when u have a full replacement panel available in your hands and nice shop with all the tools in the world to do a nice job, u still cut, fit and play all day, destroying the brand new panel to do this kind of job... instead of replace the whole thing and make it legit and right from the first time ..... Please correct me if im wrong...
T. F. A wise body man once told me to never cut more then what’s needed & keep car as original as possible.
I'm watching this video to find the answer to this very question. I have an entire floor pan but only the low spots maybe 30% of the floor is rusty. Should I replace the entire panel or just the bad areas?
Hello T.F. These guys are HACKS!!!!!....NONE of their combined Excuses are Justifiable!!!....HACKS are HACKS!!!...Mark
I think it's to keep the car with as much original metal as possible. Although with my fox body mustang I had so much rust that I just used the whole replacement panels
@@maintayne Do the hole panel. "If you have rust here, you will have it everywhere but you will only see it when your foot goes though it". That is an ancient Chines proverb.
A few coats of POR-15 under the car instead of the filler will not only fill in the weld/grinding roughness, but won't absorb water like the glazing compound nor flake off in a few years after being battered by road debris. I'm actually quite amazed that a professional would advocate using filler on the bottom of a vehicle. Has he tested his method long term in real world weather?
Pretty much how I do it. I use Metal to Metal most of the time instead of the fiberglass. Using hammers as panel holder downers must be employed when doing this type repair lol. And here I thought I was the only one smart enough to use the light to find small holes. I tell people to fill the car up with water and plug the leaks. I am so mean.
Lol yall wanna come to Michigan and do my floor pans in my 67 falcon awesone job!
I haven't gotten over doing the floors in the Ranchero yet...
OH, I see it now...so you still have to weld on the BOTTOM of the panel, too!
When using those self tapping screws to hold the floorpan in place while you weld, do you remove them at the end and then weld the holes left behind?
awsome vid.....ty
Why would you use PaintOverRust15? You have nice clean metal, sand it with 80g and spray a good epoxy primer on it.
Great professional job...wonder, tho.....I notice he welded from underneath the car, but later put a bead of caulk on the unwelded edge on the floor....why not weld the top side? Then caulk the under- car seam?? Confused here...I have a pan job coming up.
it looks like he what he was welding underneath wasn't accessible from the top. He's welding the lip where the vise grips are clamped at 7:06
Did you take out the screws or leave them in?
Took them out and welded the holes. Sorry that wasn't as clear as it should have been.
i thought the plug hole was going the be leaded in got a little excited :(, great job though from underneath looks like you were never there :)
Just watched this video after having done the exact same thing on my 69 Camaro. To my surprise you are not welding edge-to-edge. I always do that to make the repair absolutely invisible, without filler. Is there a reason for not welding edge-to-edge, other than that it takes a few more hours to do?
Dude, We actually did butt weld the rear of the floor pan and the exposed areas. The frame rail, toe board, and cross members weren't butt welded because it does save time, is just as strong and no one will see the repair unless they pull the carpet.
You mentioned you were doing a butt joint weld. Sure that wasn't a lap joint weld? Look like some overlap to me. could be deceptive though. Thanks for the video.
Gary did a butt joint (wow the comedy potential of that two word group is nearly endless) on the rear section at the seat pan and a lap at the firewall/toe board just like the factory did.
INSTEAD of drilling EXTRA holes....USE the Existing holes for the hold down screws!!!
We've done it both ways and honestly, it isn't that much more work.
@@AutoRestoMod MAKES NO SENSE to EVER...DRILL EXTRA HOLES!!!...EVER!!!...
WHY make MORE work for Yourself...and MORE COST to the customer!!!....
UNLESS of COURSE....You are CHARGING the customer for NON Necessary Labor!!!
Using a combustible material (cardboard) to protect the interior while welding...
A good depiction of how someone might do it at home. That is a stitch weld btw. A spot weld uses... a spot welder. I think you meant full, continuous seam weld.
From Jeff: Well, I've set my pant leg on some ratty blue jeans on fire before with a stick welder, but I've never set cardboard on fire with welding spark; but now that I said that... BUT technically you are correct. One should use welding blankets, welding jacket, welding gloves and a beanie (welding) hat.
Sorry sometimes in the heat of battle we use wrong words. =)
great video! helped me a lot. I need to weld in a floor pan and i want to do it myself. what is a good and inexpensive welding torch i could get?
Hi Jeff, I noticed at the end of the install that Gary was putting what looked like a seam sealer on the drain hole cover. I assumed that a drain hole cover would need the ability to be removed, so what's the best thing to do? Just seam seal all drain hole covers? I'm also asking since I've got to conduct the exact same repair, but on the drivers side instead. The original panel doesn't have a drain hole in it, but the new panel does.
Also still loving the videos, very entertaining and informative. So keep up the GR8 Work!!!
1484Youngy we use sealer, either strip calk or gun applied. Ford usually drizzled brushable sealer on them.
Thanks for the kind words about the show, we could not do this without you!
personally I'd rather have an overlap , seems it would be much stronger as the weld would be brittle, to help prevent this problem I next got a cowl cover off ebay the magnetic ones work easy and never blew off even roadracing my 66
Yeah, that would work; though the lap weld is not really going to be any stronger or weaker than a well done butt weld. Our problem on that car was oddly not the cowls, it was the fact that the radio areal grommet was not plugged in and water got into the interior.
The strand filler he is using is also waterproof
Yup.
I have floor two half pans and a rear seat pan that needs installed. Not having much luck finding someone willing to do the work. Any tips?
We'd recommend hitting the car shows locally. find out from the folks in your area who does the best work for the best price.
do you think raptor liner is the same thing as lizard skin. and why do you use that over some of the other liner type products.
Hi was the self taping screws removed or welded over? I'm new at this
After we finished welding toward those screws we removed them and welded the holes up.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks, great video, I'm currently welding some some small patches on my camaro.
Is that a flap disk on the porter cable angle grinder?
Hi, thanks for the great videos. Beginning at 6:44, you mention that it's better to plug weld the floor pan into place, as opposed to a continuous stitch weld. Do you plug weld it all around? Or is there also continuous butt welding involved? I also noticed a sheet metal overlap where the new pan meets the old by the tunnel. Thanks!
I am curious about how come you overlapped the pan on the top side near the hump instead of just seam sealing it if you want to make it appear that it was never repaired? I have a 1970 and have liked your videos and am trying to learn what is the best way to do all of these things to have the top quality car.
We only lapped in places where there was a cross brace.
this is the kind of "restoration" work that you get at a collision shop lol
Actually Michael, this is what a lot of shops do to keep from having to do a full pan. Partial repairs are preferred if the rest of the pan is decent.
What about the last piece Gary was putting on what did he apply on that hole an what was that gray stuff he used
+Ayy gee Uprising It was a self leveling seam sealer. Basically any good quality seam sealer will work.
what does the underside of the car look like after the welds? How do you ensure that moisture won't get inside the overlap?
He used a weldable primer that will probably out last the rest of the car.
@@AutoRestoMod You should probably seam seal the top and bottom of the repair, no?
Hi, just out of curiosity, what’s the grey finish on the bottom of the pan in the end?
That is epoxy primer. Gary then sprayed (at our request) black semi-gloss paint.
Did you lift the car off the chassis? Did you remove all the gas lines, and gas tank? I got a 66 impala that need floor pans welded in..
Ford the gas line runs down the drivers side. Had we been working over there we would have removed the lines and capped the end on the tank line with a rubber plug. Gas fumes are more dangerous than the liquid. Lifting the body off the frame is a tough job. We'd probably try and fix it with the frame in place. BUT if you can't access a weld point you'll need to pop that body off...
What's the specs on the welder that you used
If I'm doing this job on a daily driver, do I still need to do all that body filler work underneath? Are there any steps I can skip to save some money but not compromise the longevity?
You don't need to do anything, but every little bit helps. Keep in mind that every seam, edge, and hole underneath is prone to attract and hold water. So the smoother it is, the less likely you'll see rust forming any time soon. And definitely don't skip the painting step! Bare metal is a huge no-no.
No, that is purely finish. Seam sealer on both side will suffice. just not as neat.
I have done that job a few times and the panels never seemed to fit as well so lots of seam sealer!!
I bet Garry has done that quite a few times and practice makes perfect.
how long did this take and how much this job usually cost
just a random question. in your opinion would a flux core welder work for floor pans? i have a 1989 K1500 chevy. its in dire need for floor pans/cab corners and im wanting to go buy a welder but the only one currently in my budget is a flux core only type welder. I have heard that if you take your time and jump around the panel it would produce the same finish as a mig or what have you. any advice would be great. work time is not a issue as for i have years to work on it.
hello Dustin, I purchased the harbor freight flux core thinking id be able to do these type of repairs, and there just isn't enough flexibility with the unit to spot weld these thin gauge body panels you end up either blowing right through ( too much heat) or not getting enough penetration ( to short of time with the weld machine activated), a friend had to come and use his Hobart and then his miller either mig is optimal, and a must in my opinion, don't waste your time and money as harbor freight wont reimburse you for there machine. get a quality unit and start practicing on the same gauge metal.
You should b3. Wearing a. Resperator
Not. My. Shop.
What is Gary brushing on the plug at the end of the video?
Brush on seam sealer. Not sure what they use (think it is an IES product) but Eastwood has some good stuff too: Brush on Seam Sealer 30.4 fl.oz. Eastwood 51657ZP
why r u lap welding? is that proper way to get things done?
Depends on what you are looking for. Keep in mind that most of the car has sheet metal that is spot-welded to each other and has no rust inhibitor between the sheets. That lasts a long time. They use a weldable primer that helps to inhibit rust and the parts are e-coated.
Why don't anyone use tig.
What happened to mustang central?
They folded up. The bank called the note and the owner could not get financing.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media.
Damn that’s rough. Sorry to hear. I do want to say though that your videos are insanely helpful and I watch them all the time. Just got my 67 mustang out of storage to start restoring and I keep getting disheartened at what all I need to do with little to no previous knowledge of body work.
Are they no longer around?
Sadly, they closed their doors about two years ago.
@@AutoRestoMod I already spoke to you earlier today. We're you able to get ahold of your friend?
Why not overlay the panel and cut both layers at once? Then no fitting.
welding blanks lol
How many ads are you gonna force us to watch!?
Adam, ads pay the bills. We see it this way, no one wants to work for free. We need to pay for the gear, parts, and help. How would you like it if you went in to work and the boss said: "right, the guys at Autorestomod want you to work for free from here on out; sounds reasonable to me." And bam! you were slogging away day after day for zip. It takes a week to put these shows together, from three to four people on Saturdays when we shoot and Jeff to produce them Monday through Thursday. Thanks for watching. And by the way, current videos only have one ad. After one month we put on the Google ads...
AutoRestoMod This is a very good point and I understand exactly what you're saying. Making money is what this world is all about and ads are a necessary evil. I have a problem with MULTIPLE ads which occur in your presentation. I watched the opening ad and then in the middle of your vid you presented another ad. Just being sarcastic now, but , maybe you should feature more ads in your vids to make even more money?
Adam Pierce Unless we made a mistake on placement with Google ads, the front end ad is from them (we get a small percentage of that) and the first embedded ad is NPD, our main sponsor. We'd love to have more sponsors and make more money but so far we have what we have and are glad for it. This is how Jeff keeps the lights on at home. He's working to get the rest of the staff paid. It is really tough to do that these days. Thanks for watching Adam, and if you want only one ad subscribe and check us out each week when the shows are new. We only have the NPD ad then. We only place the Google ads when the shows are a month old.
AutoRestoMod ok.
No safety glasses?
Most of the time, yes. I do forget.
Be safe brother, enjoyed the video!
Is Gary deaf? I noticed him signing.
Yup. But he hears enough with the hearing aids.
He also reads lips...
Horrible music!!! Agggghhhh!!!
We have changed our use of the music in the last four years. BUT if you would like to donate say...$1500 for a new music pack we'd LOVE to have the help! =)
Well.... I guess I could just MUTE the parts I don't like!! :-p
LOL. Well, that works too! HAHAHAH
Miming ytterbium
Next time instead of the horrible "musical" soundtrack just let me fart into the microphone.
+Flick Cogswell OK so you don't like the music. No need to try and be funny...it wasn't successful.
@@AutoRestoMod I'm sorry. You guys are great, but I did chuckle thinking of "Nubaum Turk" from "Hollywood Knights."
GOT SUCKED INTO WATCHING ANOTHER WELD TO RUST PATCH JOB
+P Kuudsk Some call it addiction...we call it therapy.
I am sure it was the owner who didn't want to spend anymore then they had to,,However I am always looking to see how people do it right,different.IE glued on panels are now considered acceptable,and for a daily it might be OK but anyone who knows would not do it to their own car.This repair was just that a repair,not quality not crap a effective way to keep a car on the road.And sooner or later the accompanying panel will need to be replaced.So the customer got what they paid for.Later they will pay again to have over laping work done.
Using Body filler on the under carriage is wrong in so many ways
Depends on the filler. If you are using the fiberglass impregnated filler it will not cause any problems.
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat--it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is military spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat--it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is military spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat; it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is military spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat; it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is mil spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.
Well, we have used the Lizard Skin with great success on two or three projects. We've also used Dynamat--it just depends on the application. Keep in mind that Lizard Skin is not truck bed liner, this product is military spec and a variation of it is used by the armed forces for the same things we use it for.