Super video Ricky👏👍. Extremely interesting and answered most of the questions I have as I’m planning on buying a shower imminently 🤞👍. Will definitely be looking at this types of shower👍😊
hello i live in USA .i own one of these unit the very bottom section of the unit is separate along the the seam line i like to know what kind of sealant or glue will hold the unit back together. thank you for your time.
Hi, i want to star a bakki shower also but not sure what's the best bio media to used for bakki shower, can someone please tell me what is mostly used by people. Thanks
Id be interested to see the top tray after the feeding season, I get that there will be a lot of water going over and should hopefully keep the media clean but a single 2" spray bar? Better to go for a double 2" set up or even a single 3"? Also do you think the clarity of the water will be compromised? Not really a requirement as much in your instance but at hobbyist level would there be too much floating debris in the pond?
Hello Andy :) A simple solution is a layer of polyester floss in the top tray that you change/rinse out regularly; no floating debris and also improved clarity. As for the spray bar; you would actually get more force pumping the same amount of water through a single smaller bar than you would through double or larger bars; which would actually keep the media cleaner. I know that it sounds counter intuitive but that is the reality; pressure is increased through a smaller surface area. Mike Snaden has run showers straight from the bottom drain without any other mechanical filtration. Not his preferred setup but he has commented that the clarity was pretty spot on. Then again, Mike is a koi wizard and seems to be able to do the impossible
I’ve done you a video of the top tray of one Installed a year ago that hasn’t been touched, looks super healthy to me. I’ll upload it as a short. I see no need for anything other than the 2” spray bar I’m using. I’m not sure how the clarity could be compromised by adding the shower to the system, what is has done so far is improved it immensely which I anticipated.
@@Ricky_Stoddart_Koi I thought that a shower pumping un mechanically filtered water will also suck up waste and pump over the shower and causing it to be finer particles within the pond. Especially as you'll no doubt be feeding quite heavy. Sounds like its worth doing then, nice.
I haven’t had a quote for stainless so couldn’t answer that sorry. All I can say is I would presume so knowing how much the stainless steel platform it sits on costs.
I would be very careful with plastic bakki showers. They don’t have the air gap sufficiently sized. When I had mine and testing the co2 in the pond and shower outlet the shower was a co2 producing machine due to the lack of air circulation between the tiers. This caused my ph to swing wild ! Now replaced with a stainless with larger air gaps !
Hi John Most of our stock sells through other channels before it gets to the website. There is more fish on there but you need login credentials which are only for our dealers.
Showers allow you to pack media vertically which then saves floor space. The whole idea of them "gassing off ammonia" has never been prove and yet is a dominant theory spread in the koi community. The theory behind moving beds is also a gimmick. A static submersed bed of media is enough to process ammonia and nitrite, any other alternative is just that; an alternative to do the exact same thing
I honestly think this whole de-gassing stuff is also non-sense. I'm running a test on my 300 gallon static oyster shell filter. Works just as well. Basically having more flow and surface area is what matters. I've formed a new theory of properly cycling the pond. Most people put in all biological filter at one time and run water through it. What I've noticed is that ammonia goes down fast because that's the first step of the process. Once the bacteria take up all the space, the nitrite eating bacteria has a harder time building up. Common wisdom is that nitrifying bacteria takes longer to colonize, which is true, but there's another aspect to this. Once the ammonia eating bacteria colonizes, there's simply less space for the next set of bacteria. I noticed once I put in the 2nd large container of oyster shells for bio filtration, my nitrite quickly went down because all of that space is being prioritized by nitrite eating bacteria instead of ammonia eating bacteria, since they already occupied the 1st set of surface. I think the best way to cycle a pond is to use 50% of your biomedia first, for ammonia stage, and once you have 0 or very low ammonia, set the other 50% to be active, and you can get nitrite eating bacteria much faster. Most people who see improvements when adding a shower AFTER, is probably due to this.
I think all these ceramic media are a waste of money. Go get a bunch of oyster shells. I've added 1100L of oyster shells into 2 large bins to act as bio filters. Nice hard water, stable PH, and more surface area than these "advertised" ceramics.
Excellent choice Ive installed 2 large maxi showers to my pond same media your using! my opinion, best investment i've made on my pond.
They’ve certainly had a huge impact on each pond I’ve installed them on.
Great update fella that's a cracking shower 👍
Sure is, working a treat as well.
I did a very similar video a couple of months ago weighing various shower media to demonstrate porosity .. Great video again
Thanks, I’ve not seen the video have you got a link?
@@Ricky_Stoddart_Koi th-cam.com/video/yGCqBeztmG8/w-d-xo.html hopefully that will work
That’s a big shower, bet that will make a hell of difference. Cheers Ricky 👍
It’s already has, fish behaviour has transformed completely.
Very interesting Ricky . Thank you
👍
Hi Ricky great video and info 1👍👍
Thanks.
Super video Ricky👏👍. Extremely interesting and answered most of the questions I have as I’m planning on buying a shower imminently 🤞👍. Will definitely be looking at this types of shower👍😊
Glad to have helped.
hello i live in USA .i own one of these unit the very bottom section of the unit is separate along the the seam line i like to know what kind of sealant or glue will hold the unit back together. thank you for your time.
Wow amazing
Thanks a lot 😊
Just out curiosity how big is the moving bed on that system, vs the amount you could feed.
It has 500 litres of K1 and can take a lot more. This pond with moving bed and shower was handling 2.8kg at its peak this summer.
Great video Ricky. Am I
right that at the moment you have submerged the pump to feed the shower? Thank you.
Yes it’s just sat in the corner of the pond.
Hi, i want to star a bakki shower also but not sure what's the best bio media to used for bakki shower, can someone please tell me what is mostly used by people. Thanks
Id be interested to see the top tray after the feeding season, I get that there will be a lot of water going over and should hopefully keep the media clean but a single 2" spray bar? Better to go for a double 2" set up or even a single 3"? Also do you think the clarity of the water will be compromised? Not really a requirement as much in your instance but at hobbyist level would there be too much floating debris in the pond?
Hello Andy :) A simple solution is a layer of polyester floss in the top tray that you change/rinse out regularly; no floating debris and also improved clarity. As for the spray bar; you would actually get more force pumping the same amount of water through a single smaller bar than you would through double or larger bars; which would actually keep the media cleaner. I know that it sounds counter intuitive but that is the reality; pressure is increased through a smaller surface area. Mike Snaden has run showers straight from the bottom drain without any other mechanical filtration. Not his preferred setup but he has commented that the clarity was pretty spot on. Then again, Mike is a koi wizard and seems to be able to do the impossible
I’ve done you a video of the top tray of one Installed a year ago that hasn’t been touched, looks super healthy to me. I’ll upload it as a short.
I see no need for anything other than the 2” spray bar I’m using. I’m not sure how the clarity could be compromised by adding the shower to the system, what is has done so far is improved it immensely which I anticipated.
@@Ricky_Stoddart_Koi I thought that a shower pumping un mechanically filtered water will also suck up waste and pump over the shower and causing it to be finer particles within the pond. Especially as you'll no doubt be feeding quite heavy. Sounds like its worth doing then, nice.
I think that’s where the power of biological filtration as mechanical filter is gravely underestimated.
Hi I was wondering how much media did that take to full the baki up? Thanks
It was 130kg of media to fill the 3 tiers and as stated nothing in the top tier yet.
does the amount of media in these make a difference can you put too much media in for it to do the job correctly or is it more the merrier
You can’t really put too much in, I just wouldn’t fill it too high to allow space for the water column and airing.
Hi. Do we really need to add oyster shells?
It’s not essential, depends on the circumstances.
@@Ricky_Stoddart_Koi can you elaborate what are those circumstances?
Do they work out cheaper than the stainless showers
I haven’t had a quote for stainless so couldn’t answer that sorry. All I can say is I would presume so knowing how much the stainless steel platform it sits on costs.
I would be very careful with plastic bakki showers. They don’t have the air gap sufficiently sized.
When I had mine and testing the co2 in the pond and shower outlet the shower was a co2 producing machine due to the lack of air circulation between the tiers. This caused my ph to swing wild !
Now replaced with a stainless with larger air gaps !
I agree that can be the case without sufficient airflow. Good point to raise 👍
Those rubber 90⁰ fittings have you ever had any fail and empty ponds ect iv heard couple horror stories
Personally I haven’t, as with anything you need to make sure they are installed correctly.
I made the mistake in not rinsing the media so have loads of ceramic particles on the bottom of the pond. Going to have to get them hoovered out.
I certainly would, it’s not very pleasant stuff.
can i ask a question why is it your web site has very few fish forsale most are sold and being saying that for months
Hi John
Most of our stock sells through other channels before it gets to the website. There is more fish on there but you need login credentials which are only for our dealers.
👍👍
👍
Showers allow you to pack media vertically which then saves floor space. The whole idea of them "gassing off ammonia" has never been prove and yet is a dominant theory spread in the koi community. The theory behind moving beds is also a gimmick. A static submersed bed of media is enough to process ammonia and nitrite, any other alternative is just that; an alternative to do the exact same thing
Thanks for the info.
@@Ricky_Stoddart_Koi You are welcome. Thank you for your youtube channel
I honestly think this whole de-gassing stuff is also non-sense. I'm running a test on my 300 gallon static oyster shell filter. Works just as well. Basically having more flow and surface area is what matters.
I've formed a new theory of properly cycling the pond. Most people put in all biological filter at one time and run water through it. What I've noticed is that ammonia goes down fast because that's the first step of the process. Once the bacteria take up all the space, the nitrite eating bacteria has a harder time building up. Common wisdom is that nitrifying bacteria takes longer to colonize, which is true, but there's another aspect to this. Once the ammonia eating bacteria colonizes, there's simply less space for the next set of bacteria.
I noticed once I put in the 2nd large container of oyster shells for bio filtration, my nitrite quickly went down because all of that space is being prioritized by nitrite eating bacteria instead of ammonia eating bacteria, since they already occupied the 1st set of surface. I think the best way to cycle a pond is to use 50% of your biomedia first, for ammonia stage, and once you have 0 or very low ammonia, set the other 50% to be active, and you can get nitrite eating bacteria much faster.
Most people who see improvements when adding a shower AFTER, is probably due to this.
I think all these ceramic media are a waste of money. Go get a bunch of oyster shells. I've added 1100L of oyster shells into 2 large bins to act as bio filters. Nice hard water, stable PH, and more surface area than these "advertised" ceramics.
I can only partly agree with what you’re saying. I do think many of the more expensive ones are not worth the price.