The Benchmade Bailout: a knife soo nice, you'd buy it twice! Seriously, I use this knife every day at work and am always surprised at it's design, comfort, and function. It's light but feels absolutely solid in hand, has no hot spots (once changing the thumbstud out), and it slices like a beast. The two points on the reverse-tanto are actually quite useful for piercing/scoring at different angles. You can't go wrong with this one, unless you're allergic to tiny glass breakers near lanyard holes (but that's not a big deal to me imo).
@@Savage.DoomerM4 Bailout with Aluminium scales does not bend whatsoever. With that being said, I'd never use a small EDC for prying... maybe with Adamas...
I know I'll get pelted with rocks but my EDC thin pocketknife for the last 45 years has been a K55K. Not strong, not light but the thinnest I could find in the '70s. And not bad for a 155 year old design. My caveat is that it's been the backup to my work knives, but also that it's ALWAYS in my pocket.
Would love to see "Jimping" addressed. Do you need it, how far should it go along the blade, aggressive vs less aggressive, when you absolutely would not want jimping, when used to add an ornate look, and so on.
Got a Benchmade Meat Crafter the other week. My wife took it and says that it is the best thing she has ever used for processing meat. Does lots of birds as well as venison.
Ive had a omega spring on two different knives break when using the axis lock on only one side. Benchmade replaced it no problem but since ive been using both sides of the lock together i haven't had any problems!
I have only ever used both sides to open/close my bugout: I've had three sets of omega springs break (different sides at different times), stock, aftermarket, and home made (music wire), all broke the same. After market lasted longer, home made lasted the longest. But I'm convinced that the Omega design is going to break eventually. Benchmade needs to switch to the coil spring used on the Anthem.
I have the M4 bailout it’s badass got rid of the back space with the glass breaker and put an anodized purple titanium back spacer that doesn’t stick out
Hi David (and Seth), My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question: I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features: 1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard") 2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong) 3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it... 4) About 3" or more Blade Length 5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly. 6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip 7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each. Thanks so much!
I’ve been carrying the Becnmade Bailout since it came out and I love it. I’ve bought many knives since and none have managed to replace it in my pocket. I’ve got my eye on a Demko next
Interesting topics this week, but your comment on Thomas fidgeting with autos actually reminded me of a question I’ve had for a while. What is the quietest locking knife / lock? I love fidgeting too but others around me aren’t as keen about it. Thanks
spyderco endura 4 sabre grind in full stainless steel, not lightweight but super super thin, built like a tank and the fit and finish on it is so incredible, a work of art.
I got a TOPS Camp Creek for $149 a few years back, that knife is awesome camping fare and the sheath is prime, I got a Blackout Bugout s30v for $99 bucks, that thing is awesomely slim and the Grivory is fine, I got a Cold Steel Code 4 CTS-XHP for $70 in the drop point, and that is a beast. Great stuff... but we are still waiting on the KC exclusive Olive Drab Alox Victorinox Huntsman!!
Great videos! Ive been looking for a fixed blade edc for construction that uses a sheath that can be clipped onto a hammer loop, ive been using the Mora companion and its been good but im looking for something more premium that uses a similar style of sheath thanks! :)
Lightest, thinnest, strongest? Spyderco Chaparral Lightweight: 2.0 oz, .32" handle thickness, CTS-XHP steel, lockback. Either the Bailout or the Deka would be my personal preference because they're more fun, but the Chaparral is objectively lighter and thinner than any of these, and holds its own in the subjective strength category.
I agree with your choice of the Chaparral. This knife has numerous handle materials to choose from and all of them have skeletonized stainless steel liners and CTS-XHP blade steel.
Hey dca, A lot of people that I know do not like serrations on their knife blade. The enthusiast in me agrees and would rather have a plain edge. However on my benchmade bailout I have the combo blade and I’ve come to love using that knife at work. My question; is there a mostly serrated knife that still has a little bit of a utility edge at the tip? As always keep up the great content, thank you.
I concur. I have a ½ serrated Bugout. That little patch of serration is mean. I love the look of the Bailout, too. My next one will either be her or the ½ serrated Benchmade Claymore.
Hello DCA, greetings from good ol'Germany just 15 kilometers away from Solingen. You showed now again the Boker Exskelibur. And because of one of your previous shows I finally bought a Boker Exskelibur Titanium. (Although I don't like Böker so much. I am totally a Spyderco and Benchmade fanboy.) But the Boker Exskelibur with metal ball bearings is REALLY nice. It can be opned one handed just on the nail clip! Nice fidget.
Benchmade makes kitchen cutlery now. And can always go old school with the tried and true Ontario Old Hickory knives which are 1095 and have crazy good edge retention. The only caveat is needing to oil your blades after cleaning them up for storage. Can use cooking oil or coconut oil works too for food safe oils.
Hi DCA, I am subject to the 3 inch blade requirement. I currently carry a Kershaw Cryo as my EDC and was looking to add to my rotation. Do you have any upgrade recommendations? Thanks!
Thanks DCA for the expertise. Great answer for the lightest/thinnest/strongest knife recommendations (and great approach to the alternatives with the strategy "pick two of three" due to the 'triometry'). I'd consider the Sandrin Torino (Tungsten Carbide / Carbon Fiber) and the Asher Nomad/Spiro options. Exskelibur ... the obvious choice!
Light and Strong (also good price and secure when mentioning folders): Cold Steel Code 4, American Lawman, Air Lite, and Recon 1 series. I know this from ownership and use.
My 15 year old Recon1 has been an absolute rock, it was my first decent quality knife purchase. It’s one from way way back when they had an axis lock. Same spring style as omega springs, probably been opened and closed a million times, springs still feel like new. It’s been thrown, dropped, chopped wood and ice, lived in a boat. Didn’t clean it for over 10 years and it still flicked open. Still rock solid lockup. The only thing that wore was the black blade coating. I was so proud of it, I gave it a full refresh, cleaned it, changed the washers, blasted off what was left of the blade coating, then sanded the blade down and removed the partial serrations and made it all straight edge and fully mirror polished the entire blade, the inner lock channels and both steel liners. Also skeletonized the liners a bit to lose some weight. The action is absolutely *insane* smooth now. Imagine an axis lock Shirogorov, that’s what it feels like now. Dead smooth slow controlled fall shut if you want or it will just drop shut if you give it any kind of help. Hands down my favorite knife I own even after getting into high end stuff.
@@jdisdetermined Was that with the AUS8A or CTSXHP, also is that the 4 inch or larger? I enjoy the satin finish, but prefer the PVD coating. However the teflon psuedo stonewash on the mini recon, and voyagers, I had to remove and do my own acid etch and stonewash.
Hey DCA, really enjoy the videos and thank you for all the updates. I have a question for you at which maybe you could be able to help? Fishing season is upon us and I was looking for something in LC200N (I do own the spydie chef but I think it’s a little bit expensive for me to throw in a tackle box and use purely for fishing) what other blade steels and knives : pocket or fixed (under 4 inches) would be a go to purely to take fishing. I own a few bark rivers but they are all in 3V… It would be fresh water, I take care of my knives and I am looking for something between $70-$170. I know spyderco has the salt line up but I hear the H1 steal can’t hold an edge for long even though some are in the LC200N now. Thank you
DCA, from DI, I've had and carried a Benchmade Rift for years and yes it is true about if you only use one side of the Axis lock. Granted it will take YEARS for it to effect it but the side you pull on over the years will break. I'm only saying because it happened to me.
Hello. Looking for your advice. Im looking for an edc fixed blade. 3.5 to 4 inch blade with a good sized handle and kydex sheath for scout carry or pocket carry. Under $100 preferred
I love my new Case SparXX Smooth Blue Pearl Kirinite Slimline Trapper Pocket Knife, which I bought on your suggestion. Its very thin and classy and makes a great letter opener.
Hi DCA, make a video on knives for saltwater and fresh water fishing , Elmax better than Magncut or LC200n , S35Vn maybe ? Love the videos and thank You I have learned a lot watching your videos
Serations are a pain to sharpen but sometimes it’s convenient to have a knife with full serrations. What is the best steal for serrations? Is it better to have steal that has has high edge retention but difficult to sharpen or easy to sharpen but dulls easier?
I have a Spyderco Sliverax. Love the knife but unfortunately the tip of the blade pokes out slightly when it's closed (you can feel it when sliding your finger down the scale). Is there a way to fix this issue? Maybe sand it down somehow? Thanks always for your wonderful work. You guys are the best!
Talisa, at $204, the Silverax is not cheap. IMHO, anything over $100 is expensive & more ego than anything else. A $200 knife should not have the blade tip sticking out.
"Come see the knives inherent in the system!" 😂😂😂 Priceless, Thomas! Thank you, as always gentlemen, for a fun and informative bit of knife nerdery. Mr. Andersen, I'm trying to choose an affordable, durable, versatile knife that will work for extended use in very cold weather. The Immediate thoughts were the Gerber Strongarm and the Cold Steel SRK (because tough, enclosed tangs, versatile sheaths). Mora Buscraft Survival (stainless + ferro rod) occurred to me as well, but I'm not sure how it would fare in frigid weather. Are there others you would recommend? Also, any particular recommendations on sheath material or type, when faced with extreme cold? Looking to keep it under $100, if that's possible, given the needs.
Regarding bulk meat cutting tasks, I've recently discovered the Benchmade "Meatcrafter" in the "Hunt" series; thin, high quality steel, edge retention, comfortable handle & 14° grind. I haven't found a better meat cutter yet.
@@Freakmaster480 I did too but finally decided to get in on a pre-order. I suspect they'll go fast and I don't want to wait for a second production run. I do feel like a bit of a tool buying the same knife twice while the first one is still rockin' right along. The corrosion resistance being enough to put it on a Salt is so intriguing, given it's other properties. I couldn't resist.
Can we see a DCA knife collection? Partial, whole, favorites, oddities. Anything to be honest. He’s a pillar of this community and I know we’re all curious!
For strong and light under $100 I'm surprised David didn't mention their KC exclusive Denim Micarta CJRB Scoria with AR-RPM9 steel. It's an awesome feeling slim knife, extremely slicey, but still feels like you have some power behind the good-sized blade. The handle is very slim in the pocket but wide enough to provide good grip, the denim is soft and feels great, the golden hardware is beautiful with a great titanium clip, and if you have a G10 Feldspar, this is even slimmer since the Scoria micarta is contoured down to the edges. Very highy recommend it, as it's my co-favorite knife at the moment (along with the Kizer Justice, which is fantastic but about twice as heavy).
Let me explain the benefit of the deep carry pocket clip: its purpose isn't only to conceal the knife. It also makes it far more comfortable to sit down, and it more easily fits in pants like slacks that have more vertical pockets.
Thinnest lightest strongest: Spyderco Stretch 2 XL It's not on sale yet, but it should be out very soon. It's a linerless Stretch 2 with a significantly larger blade, but only a barely noticeably larger handle. And in spite of its larger size, it's lighter weight than the Stretch 2.
Hey staywoke - A button lock like the non-autos from Pro-Tech are great, but they're also almost never in stock. Luckily, that fantastic lock is catching on. I have two Civivis - the Button Lock Elementum and the Cogent. The Cogent is my current favorite EDC. They also have a couple new models, the Altus and the Conspirator. My next order to Knifecenter will include a new Conspirator with Cuibourtia Wood handles. The action on the Cogent is awesome.
Thinnest, strong & light 2.2 oz Spyderco Chaparral. Potentially too small for most. Open bottletops with FRN handle. Used blade for 18 months construction edc cutting electric wire etc. It's a beast. Way sharp out of box. One small chip after 75 weeks of abuse. Refreshed nicely
Related to the meat cutting: Make sure he is using a wood/bamboo butcher block/cutting board. Some glass ones can kill your edge pretty quickly. Also, if using a steel knife, make sure to hone/strop every so often. Its the same technique that butchers use when breaking down a whole animal quickly in an industrial setting. They have thin blades of not-great steel, but they hone every few minutes and it suits them fine. However, if that is something your friend really has no interest in doing, tell him to get a ceramic knife. As long as he is cutting into a soft board and stays away from any bones, he will almost never have to sharpen it. Some people only send their ceramic knives in once a year for professional sharpening and seem to do fine. Just food for thought.
Hey DC! Thanks for all the great content! You've taught me a lot, and encouraged me to spend way more money than necessary on redundant cutting devices. But hey... it's healthier than whiskey, right? Anyhoo... I have a question: What do you think is the fastest-deploying non-auto knife? I recently bought a Spyderco Ikuchi and I love the way it snaps out. Thwak! It got me thinking... what's my fastest knife? And what does DC think is the fastest knife? And exactly what factors make a non-auto fast? Hmmm...
Axis lock question, in my sog terminus xr, when using just thumb/one side of lock, the bar inside comes crooked and doesn't look or feel quite right. But the one on the bugout, it works great.
I actually really like the deep pocket clips. It's actually one of the features I've been looking for in a good edc folder. I like that when I sit, crouch, climb, etc., the ass of the handle isn't jabbing into me. The lower the knife slips into the pocket, the better (imo). Do you have any recommendations for good, strong, comfortable edc folders with deep pocket clips? I'd also prefer it to give the feeling of filling out a large hand. I currently carry a PM2 that feels great in my hand even though it doesn't appear very bulky or ergonomic. I tend to impulse-buy a knife the instant I find one that feels at home in my hand. That's a very important quality to me for a tool that is going with me everywhere and getting used everyday. Any edge dulls overtime... Every pocket clip gets stretched out overtime... Pivots can weaken and screws can loosen, etc. You can give me the most expensive knife made of the most exotic materials in the world... but if it feels like shit in my hand, I absolutely will not waste any energy carrying it around or using it.
Kevin Coughlin - Better than a super steel kitchen knife, maybe have your friend try different sharpeners. If you find a kitchen knife with a super steel like M390, the Jake Hoback comes to mind, or the Tops kitchen knives with S35VN, once that razor edge is gone, getting it back will take a LOT more work. A kitchen knife with a very good steel (Ontario's Aglite with 14C28N, Fallkniven's kitchen knives with VG-10) and an easy to use sharpener is much more beneficial for significant meat processing. A large ceramic rod only takes a couple of swipes, and there's a reason butcher shops are known to have big strops. A couple of quick swipes on a good strop with a decent compound and you'll be flying through meat. I've butchered whole elk, caribou, moose, and I wouldn't ever want something as hard as S35VN. It'd take forever.
Which knife would you recommend for bushcraft? I recently got a huge chip in my current bushcraft knife and need a replacement but can't decide. Thank you
For thin, light, and somewhat strong edge I’d suggest the KA-BAR dozier in d2. It works for me as edc folders go. Wouldn’t wear it with a suit, but I live on a really rural hobby farm.
Do not forget the Cold Steel Atlas lock coming very soon. The drifter series, maybe engage series. The name has changed in the 2022 Cold Steel Catalogue.
Cold Steel Airlite is one of my favorites. Light, good handle size, large and strong blade, Aus10 steel is good (like VG10). Plus, at the $60-ish price, if you lose it you won’t cry as long
Love the content DCA. Thank you. I'm considering getting a custom Buck 110, or 112. The only thing that makes me hesitant is that they have no pocket clip. I'm not used to wearing a sheath, but could be convinced. Do you ever wear them, and how do they compare to the pocket clip?
Arcane is good looking. The best. But the Cold Steel Air Lite 3.5” is one of the very very few Cold Steel knives that isn’t over-built - designed to be very thin and light. The recently released G10 version of the 3” Verdict is remarkably thin. For that matter so is the humble Grivory edition. From Benchmade, my Pardue precursor to the Bugout in G10 was awesomely stiff compared to the flexy Grivory version of the Bugout, and even the GF Elite (name?j version. I wouldn’t have thought at first of the Demko AD 20.5 but man you’re right.
DDCA, What is the purpose of an asymmetric edge? Both my Buck Sentry and my Kershaw Barricade seem to have edges comprised of two different angles, which makes sharpening a little more involved. What is the advantage to an edge like this?
Dear DCA! What blade would you say has the most edge retention per dollar? I’m looking for a folding knife primarily for food prep… very sharp slicing with good edge retention that can handle acidic food and occasional washes… I prefer value over budget, thank you!
People should look at Boker. Their new catalog is quite impressive and has a wide range of knives with great price points. Spyderco has gone off the rails with MAP pricing and I think many people would enjoy a cool Barlow or a tactical in D2 or N690. I scored an Boker Atlas in brass in Sandvik 12c27 and it's really cool for the money. I like some Cold Steel blades. My daily carry is a Air Lite drop point in AUS10, which is awesome and kills the Bugout for the money and is easy to touch up on a ceramic rod.
For slicing lots of meat, something like the Victorinox Sabre is a good choice for blade design. Although Victorinox steel won't last that long. And smaller/lighter knives aren't ideal either. With lots of cutting, the extra weight really helps.
Hey DCA, In one of your recent videos, you mention your Horizontal carry SAK and Flashlight. What are you using? I would love to see some options for that very use steve
DCA , You and Thomas are doing a great job! I’ve been watching some of your previous videos. A lot Of them reference knifes for less than $100. I’m a little perplexed. It cost me over $150 to fill up my truck, which will just give me just part of a day driving. I think I would want to spend more and $150 for a knife that’s gonna last me years. Why not do a video on folders and fix blades from say $150-$500.
Hey Knife Center and David. There's plenty of knife company's out there that uses Canvas Micarta,Barlap Micarta and even paper Micarta. Why have there not been any knife company's using Dyneema for a knife handle scales? It's a really strong thread like material so why is there no Dyneema Micarta?
IDK but by guess would be cost and difficulty to work with. Dyneema is slippery and so strong I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't bond well to the micarta resin and make milling difficult to impossible. I'd be curious to hear results of anyone who's tried.
Even a low-end steel should not need much maintenance when cutting through meat, vegetables or most other organic material, hence why super steel are not that common in the kitchen world. One possibility for the lack of edge lifespan could actually be the nature of the cutting board that is used. Unfortunately, I know way too much people who use inappropriate surfaces as a "cutting board", and it is even possible to find glass and stone trays labeled as "cutting boards" on the market. An uneducated use of these surfaces will consistently ruin any edge, disregarding of the steel, as certainly as cutting directly on a sharpening stone. And the discomfort felt when manipulating the knive becomes unavoidable once it is dull, no matter how well the handle is made. So before recommending buying a new knife with a premium steel and a top notch handle, i would first investigate on the circumstances under which that person is having issues with edge retention while simply processing meat.
As far a Chef knives , Cold Steel has some decent ones made with 4116 Krupp steel which in my experience holds an edge similar to VG10 and they are only around $30 or so , So if you don't have $150 to spend on an over-priced Fallkniven knife , try Cold Steel , you won't be disappointed... 👍🖖
DCA, I recently bought a Kansept Accipiter. l love the knife, but hate the pocket clip. It grabs insanely coming out of the pocket and is a major pain to put back in the pocket due to the hard angle on the underside of the milled titanium clip. Can this be fixed by taking the clip off and taking a dremel wheel to that hard edge?
Interesting topic, I have a Slipjoint (with adjustable hardware) where the backspring is incredibly strong, so opening and closing it is a chore. Was wonder if there's a method or trick to make it easier to open or is it only when it "breaks in". Was also wondering if it does "break in" will it actually become easier to open and close?
RE: Thin, strong, light knives... I love the Code 4 series. I have one of each (clip, drop, tanto), and I think they are some of the most under-rated knives ever made. As far as the fidgety knives question, I've always found a good, well-made flipper-frame lock to be pretty fun to fidget with. I play with my ZT 308 all the time. Also, I've been using my axis lock with one finger for years, haven't had a spring break yet.
"To each their own out there". I'm veering off knives here, but that is the best line ever, the comment of the interwebs all time! The internet connects us yes, but we are still individuals with individuality. Yours may not be "my" choice and vice-versa. That gets lost online. You/your company is doing it right. All spectrums covered, cost, materials etc... Stay neutral...."just the facts ma'am" 💯
I do agree with the Cold Steel Code 4. beautiful knife for the price. solid tight lockup top quality steel. if you want a little lighter I would suggest the Cold Steel American Lawman. same S35VN steel. all in the $100 price range.
One steel one handle material… depends. Depending on the application, A2 with green canvas micarta for my fixed blade but the most experience is with S30V and M390. But I’ve heard S60v is like M390 but tougher, maybe that with micarta or G10, too many options lol
S35VN is the best steel. Great retention, but still relatively easy to sharpen. For fixed blades, wooden handles all the way. Wood is comfy and reliable in all conditions and in every circumstance. For folders, titanium - strong and light.
Hi DCA. When I am thinking thin, light and strong, the ANV A200 comes immediatly to my mind. It is really strong, very light and thinner than most full size folding knives.
Lots of Japanese kitchen knives do come in steels like; R2, ZDP-189, HAP-40. But I do take your point about VG-10 as a core steel in not too expensive knives that can be kept sharp quite easily.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
The Benchmade Bailout: a knife soo nice, you'd buy it twice! Seriously, I use this knife every day at work and am always surprised at it's design, comfort, and function. It's light but feels absolutely solid in hand, has no hot spots (once changing the thumbstud out), and it slices like a beast. The two points on the reverse-tanto are actually quite useful for piercing/scoring at different angles. You can't go wrong with this one, unless you're allergic to tiny glass breakers near lanyard holes (but that's not a big deal to me imo).
Unless you do any prying. The handle just bends.
@@Savage.Doomer good to know actually
@@Savage.Doomer maybe on the bugout but not the bailout
@@Savage.DoomerM4 Bailout with Aluminium scales does not bend whatsoever. With that being said, I'd never use a small EDC for prying... maybe with Adamas...
Say no to Benchmade.
I know I'll get pelted with rocks but my EDC thin pocketknife for the last 45 years has been a K55K. Not strong, not light but the thinnest I could find in the '70s. And not bad for a 155 year old design. My caveat is that it's been the backup to my work knives, but also that it's ALWAYS in my pocket.
"Come see the knives inherent in the system" got a laugh out of me.
lol
Yes! My perfect specs for the perfect EDC. Hope this video has a part 2. Really curious about some hidden gems out there. Thanks!
Would love to see "Jimping" addressed. Do you need it, how far should it go along the blade, aggressive vs less aggressive, when you absolutely would not want jimping, when used to add an ornate look, and so on.
Are you really Nutnfancy?
@@banditone00 I consider myself to be a somewhat fancy
Got a Benchmade Meat Crafter the other week. My wife took it and says that it is the best thing she has ever used for processing meat. Does lots of birds as well as venison.
got one for my sister with a Dexter quote she loves it
Ive had a omega spring on two different knives break when using the axis lock on only one side. Benchmade replaced it no problem but since ive been using both sides of the lock together i haven't had any problems!
I have only ever used both sides to open/close my bugout: I've had three sets of omega springs break (different sides at different times), stock, aftermarket, and home made (music wire), all broke the same. After market lasted longer, home made lasted the longest. But I'm convinced that the Omega design is going to break eventually. Benchmade needs to switch to the coil spring used on the Anthem.
I have the M4 bailout it’s badass got rid of the back space with the glass breaker and put an anodized purple titanium back spacer that doesn’t stick out
Hi David (and Seth),
My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question:
I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features:
1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard")
2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong)
3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it...
4) About 3" or more Blade Length
5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly.
6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip
7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each.
Thanks so much!
I’ve been carrying the Becnmade Bailout since it came out and I love it. I’ve bought many knives since and none have managed to replace it in my pocket. I’ve got my eye on a Demko next
Interesting topics this week, but your comment on Thomas fidgeting with autos actually reminded me of a question I’ve had for a while. What is the quietest locking knife / lock? I love fidgeting too but others around me aren’t as keen about it. Thanks
Hmm...gravity knife i would guess. Interesting question.
Benchmade Arcane is top notch. One of my first knives (I have 50+) and it’s still one of my go to knives. Love it.
I really liked your cardboard slayers video. What would be the best FIXED BLADE cardboard slayer?
spyderco endura 4 sabre grind in full stainless steel, not lightweight but super super thin, built like a tank and the fit and finish on it is so incredible, a work of art.
I got a TOPS Camp Creek for $149 a few years back, that knife is awesome camping fare and the sheath is prime, I got a Blackout Bugout s30v for $99 bucks, that thing is awesomely slim and the Grivory is fine, I got a Cold Steel Code 4 CTS-XHP for $70 in the drop point, and that is a beast. Great stuff... but we are still waiting on the KC exclusive Olive Drab Alox Victorinox Huntsman!!
Camp Creek is amazing. Surprised there isn’t more talk/hype about it. Sheath is perfect too
Like the branding or not, the Cold Steel Broken Skull is one of the strongest, lightest, thinnest knives made, if you can still find one.
Cold steel is who got me into collecting
@Jesse Robinson not even remotely close to being true. Cold steel is cheap knives for cheap people.
It was my first (quality) brand I got my hands on. Started with those crappy unknown Walmart brands from the early 2000.
Broken Skull is an animal. 5 years as a work knife and the pocket clip paint is the only thing worn.
@@talisikid1618 That's not true at all. Lol
Hey DCA, could you show me some Stag handle knives? I have an affinity for stag and would like to see it represented!
Great videos! Ive been looking for a fixed blade edc for construction that uses a sheath that can be clipped onto a hammer loop, ive been using the Mora companion and its been good but im looking for something more premium that uses a similar style of sheath thanks! :)
Lightest, thinnest, strongest? Spyderco Chaparral Lightweight: 2.0 oz, .32" handle thickness, CTS-XHP steel, lockback. Either the Bailout or the Deka would be my personal preference because they're more fun, but the Chaparral is objectively lighter and thinner than any of these, and holds its own in the subjective strength category.
The Chaparral is very nice. That was my opinion before and after I purchase the knife.
I agree with your choice of the Chaparral. This knife has numerous handle materials to choose from and all of them have skeletonized stainless steel liners and CTS-XHP blade steel.
Hey dca, A lot of people that I know do not like serrations on their knife blade. The enthusiast in me agrees and would rather have a plain edge. However on my benchmade bailout I have the combo blade and I’ve come to love using that knife at work. My question; is there a mostly serrated knife that still has a little bit of a utility edge at the tip? As always keep up the great content, thank you.
Check spyderco
I concur. I have a ½ serrated Bugout. That little patch of serration is mean. I love the look of the Bailout, too. My next one will either be her or the ½ serrated Benchmade Claymore.
@@shadygraves the straight bladed claymore looks pretty good too. This is why I struggle so much hahah.
Hello DCA, greetings from good ol'Germany just 15 kilometers away from Solingen. You showed now again the Boker Exskelibur. And because of one of your previous shows I finally bought a Boker Exskelibur Titanium. (Although I don't like Böker so much. I am totally a Spyderco and Benchmade fanboy.)
But the Boker Exskelibur with metal ball bearings is REALLY nice. It can be opned one handed just on the nail clip! Nice fidget.
Benchmade makes kitchen cutlery now. And can always go old school with the tried and true Ontario Old Hickory knives which are 1095 and have crazy good edge retention. The only caveat is needing to oil your blades after cleaning them up for storage. Can use cooking oil or coconut oil works too for food safe oils.
Hi DCA, I am subject to the 3 inch blade requirement. I currently carry a Kershaw Cryo as my EDC and was looking to add to my rotation. Do you have any upgrade recommendations? Thanks!
Anything over $40 would be an improvement imo
A couple places to look below -DCA
CIVIVI Elementum: kcoti.com/3qYOvdj
SOG Terminus XR: kcoti.com/3nFNgyj
Spyderco Para 3: kcoti.com/3LEAfR1
Thanks DCA for the expertise. Great answer for the lightest/thinnest/strongest knife recommendations (and great approach to the alternatives with the strategy "pick two of three" due to the 'triometry'). I'd consider the Sandrin Torino (Tungsten Carbide / Carbon Fiber) and the Asher Nomad/Spiro options. Exskelibur ... the obvious choice!
You know your knives. Great recommendations!
I've tried doing one side of an Axis Lock, doesn't seem to disengage for me.
Light and Strong (also good price and secure when mentioning folders): Cold Steel Code 4, American Lawman, Air Lite, and Recon 1 series. I know this from ownership and use.
I have the lawman in CTX ,super strong and lite !
Agreed
My 15 year old Recon1 has been an absolute rock, it was my first decent quality knife purchase. It’s one from way way back when they had an axis lock. Same spring style as omega springs, probably been opened and closed a million times, springs still feel like new. It’s been thrown, dropped, chopped wood and ice, lived in a boat. Didn’t clean it for over 10 years and it still flicked open. Still rock solid lockup. The only thing that wore was the black blade coating.
I was so proud of it, I gave it a full refresh, cleaned it, changed the washers, blasted off what was left of the blade coating, then sanded the blade down and removed the partial serrations and made it all straight edge and fully mirror polished the entire blade, the inner lock channels and both steel liners. Also skeletonized the liners a bit to lose some weight. The action is absolutely *insane* smooth now. Imagine an axis lock Shirogorov, that’s what it feels like now. Dead smooth slow controlled fall shut if you want or it will just drop shut if you give it any kind of help. Hands down my favorite knife I own even after getting into high end stuff.
Light🤣🤷🏼
@@jdisdetermined Was that with the AUS8A or CTSXHP, also is that the 4 inch or larger? I enjoy the satin finish, but prefer the PVD coating. However the teflon psuedo stonewash on the mini recon, and voyagers, I had to remove and do my own acid etch and stonewash.
Guess I go back to my BM 940-1 for light, strong and thin. Carbon fiber, titanium and S90V 2.44oz
Hey DCA, really enjoy the videos and thank you for all the updates. I have a question for you at which maybe you could be able to help?
Fishing season is upon us and I was looking for something in LC200N (I do own the spydie chef but I think it’s a little bit expensive for me to throw in a tackle box and use purely for fishing) what other blade steels and knives : pocket or fixed (under 4 inches) would be a go to purely to take fishing. I own a few bark rivers but they are all in 3V… It would be fresh water, I take care of my knives and I am looking for something between $70-$170. I know spyderco has the salt line up but I hear the H1 steal can’t hold an edge for long even though some are in the LC200N now.
Thank you
DCA, from DI, I've had and carried a Benchmade Rift for years and yes it is true about if you only use one side of the Axis lock. Granted it will take YEARS for it to effect it but the side you pull on over the years will break. I'm only saying because it happened to me.
Hello. Looking for your advice. Im looking for an edc fixed blade. 3.5 to 4 inch blade with a good sized handle and kydex sheath for scout carry or pocket carry. Under $100 preferred
I love my new Case SparXX Smooth Blue Pearl Kirinite Slimline Trapper Pocket Knife, which I bought on your suggestion. Its very thin and classy and makes a great letter opener.
I live for this- you guys should do a video about spike or very accute knives! For example the Boguszewski benchmade spike!
Hi DCA, make a video on knives for saltwater and fresh water fishing , Elmax better than Magncut or LC200n , S35Vn maybe ?
Love the videos and thank You I have learned a lot watching your videos
Only answer I found for that was the Spyderco Salt series, and there are a lot to choose from.
Serations are a pain to sharpen but sometimes it’s convenient to have a knife with full serrations. What is the best steal for serrations? Is it better to have steal that has has high edge retention but difficult to sharpen or easy to sharpen but dulls easier?
What is the most bizzare blade shapes have you seen?
I want to edc a fixed blade again. I’m searching that middle ground between neck knives and belt knives. What recommendations can u come up with??
White River M1, Bradford G-necker or Guardian 3.5, Kabar Eskabar, Kizer Sealion
Esee Izula?
Pocket carry a Benchmade hidden canyon premium or belt carry standard.
@@andrewfournier8817 too neck knife
The tops Sonoran might be the one
For a thin strong folder I would recommend the A.G. Russell One Hand Knife. The handle is made from a single piece of metal.
I have a Spyderco Sliverax. Love the knife but unfortunately the tip of the blade pokes out slightly when it's closed (you can feel it when sliding your finger down the scale). Is there a way to fix this issue? Maybe sand it down somehow?
Thanks always for your wonderful work. You guys are the best!
For what Spydeco charges their knives should be close to perfect out of the box. If not, send it back & have them fix the issue.
@@MrBluesluver Spyderco is not expensive
Talisa, at $204, the Silverax is not cheap. IMHO, anything over $100 is expensive & more ego than anything else. A $200 knife should not have the blade tip sticking out.
"Come see the knives inherent in the system!" 😂😂😂 Priceless, Thomas!
Thank you, as always gentlemen, for a fun and informative bit of knife nerdery.
Mr. Andersen, I'm trying to choose an affordable, durable, versatile knife that will work for extended use in very cold weather. The Immediate thoughts were the Gerber Strongarm and the Cold Steel SRK (because tough, enclosed tangs, versatile sheaths). Mora Buscraft Survival (stainless + ferro rod) occurred to me as well, but I'm not sure how it would fare in frigid weather. Are there others you would recommend? Also, any particular recommendations on sheath material or type, when faced with extreme cold? Looking to keep it under $100, if that's possible, given the needs.
Regarding bulk meat cutting tasks, I've recently discovered the Benchmade "Meatcrafter" in the "Hunt" series; thin, high quality steel, edge retention, comfortable handle & 14° grind. I haven't found a better meat cutter yet.
A Kershaw skyline. A classic knife , hard to be disappointed with it.
The Native 5 Salt is surprisingly strong for its weight. Idk about strongest, but it's a standout in my collection for the criteria.
I keeo going back and forth over whether or not to order the native 5 salt in magnacut thats currently open for preorders.
@@Freakmaster480 I did too but finally decided to get in on a pre-order. I suspect they'll go fast and I don't want to wait for a second production run.
I do feel like a bit of a tool buying the same knife twice while the first one is still rockin' right along. The corrosion resistance being enough to put it on a Salt is so intriguing, given it's other properties. I couldn't resist.
Can we see a DCA knife collection? Partial, whole, favorites, oddities. Anything to be honest. He’s a pillar of this community and I know we’re all curious!
Love my 535BK-4 . My microtech Dirac and 535bk-4 are my daily knifes I use back and forth .
To follow with first topic. Next week, could you recommend a low end, mid tier, high end, chef's knife? I would love a steel with good edge retention
High end Chef- Konosuke in HD2.
For strong and light under $100 I'm surprised David didn't mention their KC exclusive Denim Micarta CJRB Scoria with AR-RPM9 steel. It's an awesome feeling slim knife, extremely slicey, but still feels like you have some power behind the good-sized blade. The handle is very slim in the pocket but wide enough to provide good grip, the denim is soft and feels great, the golden hardware is beautiful with a great titanium clip, and if you have a G10 Feldspar, this is even slimmer since the Scoria micarta is contoured down to the edges. Very highy recommend it, as it's my co-favorite knife at the moment (along with the Kizer Justice, which is fantastic but about twice as heavy).
Let me explain the benefit of the deep carry pocket clip: its purpose isn't only to conceal the knife. It also makes it far more comfortable to sit down, and it more easily fits in pants like slacks that have more vertical pockets.
Thinnest lightest strongest: Spyderco Stretch 2 XL
It's not on sale yet, but it should be out very soon. It's a linerless Stretch 2 with a significantly larger blade, but only a barely noticeably larger handle. And in spite of its larger size, it's lighter weight than the Stretch 2.
Hey staywoke - A button lock like the non-autos from Pro-Tech are great, but they're also almost never in stock. Luckily, that fantastic lock is catching on. I have two Civivis - the Button Lock Elementum and the Cogent. The Cogent is my current favorite EDC. They also have a couple new models, the Altus and the Conspirator. My next order to Knifecenter will include a new Conspirator with Cuibourtia Wood handles. The action on the Cogent is awesome.
Thinnest, strong & light 2.2 oz Spyderco Chaparral. Potentially too small for most. Open bottletops with FRN handle. Used blade for 18 months construction edc cutting electric wire etc. It's a beast. Way sharp out of box. One small chip after 75 weeks of abuse. Refreshed nicely
The Benchmade meatcrafter is absolutely amazing for processing
Related to the meat cutting:
Make sure he is using a wood/bamboo butcher block/cutting board. Some glass ones can kill your edge pretty quickly.
Also, if using a steel knife, make sure to hone/strop every so often. Its the same technique that butchers use when breaking down a whole animal quickly in an industrial setting. They have thin blades of not-great steel, but they hone every few minutes and it suits them fine.
However, if that is something your friend really has no interest in doing, tell him to get a ceramic knife. As long as he is cutting into a soft board and stays away from any bones, he will almost never have to sharpen it. Some people only send their ceramic knives in once a year for professional sharpening and seem to do fine.
Just food for thought.
Hey DC! Thanks for all the great content! You've taught me a lot, and encouraged me to spend way more money than necessary on redundant cutting devices. But hey... it's healthier than whiskey, right?
Anyhoo... I have a question: What do you think is the fastest-deploying non-auto knife? I recently bought a Spyderco Ikuchi and I love the way it snaps out. Thwak! It got me thinking... what's my fastest knife? And what does DC think is the fastest knife?
And exactly what factors make a non-auto fast? Hmmm...
Axis lock question, in my sog terminus xr, when using just thumb/one side of lock, the bar inside comes crooked and doesn't look or feel quite right. But the one on the bugout, it works great.
I actually really like the deep pocket clips. It's actually one of the features I've been looking for in a good edc folder. I like that when I sit, crouch, climb, etc., the ass of the handle isn't jabbing into me. The lower the knife slips into the pocket, the better (imo).
Do you have any recommendations for good, strong, comfortable edc folders with deep pocket clips? I'd also prefer it to give the feeling of filling out a large hand. I currently carry a PM2 that feels great in my hand even though it doesn't appear very bulky or ergonomic. I tend to impulse-buy a knife the instant I find one that feels at home in my hand. That's a very important quality to me for a tool that is going with me everywhere and getting used everyday. Any edge dulls overtime... Every pocket clip gets stretched out overtime... Pivots can weaken and screws can loosen, etc. You can give me the most expensive knife made of the most exotic materials in the world... but if it feels like shit in my hand, I absolutely will not waste any energy carrying it around or using it.
Hey DCA, I would like to get a good all round knife for under 60 bucks, what would you recommend?
Kevin Coughlin - Better than a super steel kitchen knife, maybe have your friend try different sharpeners. If you find a kitchen knife with a super steel like M390, the Jake Hoback comes to mind, or the Tops kitchen knives with S35VN, once that razor edge is gone, getting it back will take a LOT more work. A kitchen knife with a very good steel (Ontario's Aglite with 14C28N, Fallkniven's kitchen knives with VG-10) and an easy to use sharpener is much more beneficial for significant meat processing. A large ceramic rod only takes a couple of swipes, and there's a reason butcher shops are known to have big strops. A couple of quick swipes on a good strop with a decent compound and you'll be flying through meat. I've butchered whole elk, caribou, moose, and I wouldn't ever want something as hard as S35VN. It'd take forever.
Which knife would you recommend for bushcraft? I recently got a huge chip in my current bushcraft knife and need a replacement but can't decide. Thank you
Spirit of the question!!? You re awesome bro
For thin, light, and somewhat strong edge I’d suggest the KA-BAR dozier in d2. It works for me as edc folders go. Wouldn’t wear it with a suit, but I live on a really rural hobby farm.
Good talk! I've got my eye on that cold steel air lite and the Benchmade bailout
Hey DCA! I saw a beautiful pair of special Skipjacks over at the Pout House. Would love for you to show them off! Thanks!
Do not forget the Cold Steel Atlas lock coming very soon. The drifter series, maybe engage series. The name has changed in the 2022 Cold Steel Catalogue.
Cold Steel Airlite is one of my favorites. Light, good handle size, large and strong blade, Aus10 steel is good (like VG10). Plus, at the $60-ish price, if you lose it you won’t cry as long
Love the content DCA. Thank you.
I'm considering getting a custom Buck 110, or 112. The only thing that makes me hesitant is that they have no pocket clip. I'm not used to wearing a sheath, but could be convinced. Do you ever wear them, and how do they compare to the pocket clip?
Light and sturdy... Opinel Nr.8 1.61 oz... Unbeatable
Arcane is good looking. The best. But the Cold Steel Air Lite 3.5” is one of the very very few Cold Steel knives that isn’t over-built - designed to be very thin and light. The recently released G10 version of the 3” Verdict is remarkably thin. For that matter so is the humble Grivory edition. From Benchmade, my Pardue precursor to the Bugout in G10 was awesomely stiff compared to the flexy Grivory version of the Bugout, and even the GF Elite (name?j version. I wouldn’t have thought at first of the Demko AD 20.5 but man you’re right.
DDCA,
What is the purpose of an asymmetric edge? Both my Buck Sentry and my Kershaw Barricade seem to have edges comprised of two different angles, which makes sharpening a little more involved. What is the advantage to an edge like this?
I have an old Cold Steel SRK with CarbonV steel from about 20 years ago. Amazing workhorse knife.
Dear DCA! What blade would you say has the most edge retention per dollar? I’m looking for a folding knife primarily for food prep… very sharp slicing with good edge retention that can handle acidic food and occasional washes… I prefer value over budget, thank you!
People should look at Boker. Their new catalog is quite impressive and has a wide range of knives with great price points. Spyderco has gone off the rails with MAP pricing and I think many people would enjoy a cool Barlow or a tactical in D2 or N690. I scored an Boker Atlas in brass in Sandvik 12c27 and it's really cool for the money. I like some Cold Steel blades. My daily carry is a Air Lite drop point in AUS10, which is awesome and kills the Bugout for the money and is easy to touch up on a ceramic rod.
For slicing lots of meat, something like the Victorinox Sabre is a good choice for blade design.
Although Victorinox steel won't last that long.
And smaller/lighter knives aren't ideal either. With lots of cutting, the extra weight really helps.
Hey DCA,
In one of your recent videos, you mention your Horizontal carry SAK and Flashlight.
What are you using?
I would love to see some options for that very use
steve
AEB-L and Nitro-V have become my absolute favorite steels. They strop back really well and are tough as nails.
Cheap steel that doesn’t keep an edge.
DCA , You and Thomas are doing a great job! I’ve been watching some of your previous videos. A lot Of them reference knifes for less than $100. I’m a little perplexed. It cost me over $150 to fill up my truck, which will just give me just part of a day driving. I think I would want to spend more and $150 for a knife that’s gonna last me years. Why not do a video on folders and fix blades from say $150-$500.
Hey Knife Center and David. There's plenty of knife company's out there that uses Canvas Micarta,Barlap Micarta and even paper Micarta. Why have there not been any knife company's using Dyneema for a knife handle scales? It's a really strong thread like material so why is there no Dyneema Micarta?
IDK but by guess would be cost and difficulty to work with. Dyneema is slippery and so strong I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't bond well to the micarta resin and make milling difficult to impossible. I'd be curious to hear results of anyone who's tried.
Magnacut & micarta fills my needs really well. May be something better in the future but right now it's an easy answer
Even a low-end steel should not need much maintenance when cutting through meat, vegetables or most other organic material, hence why super steel are not that common in the kitchen world. One possibility for the lack of edge lifespan could actually be the nature of the cutting board that is used.
Unfortunately, I know way too much people who use inappropriate surfaces as a "cutting board", and it is even possible to find glass and stone trays labeled as "cutting boards" on the market. An uneducated use of these surfaces will consistently ruin any edge, disregarding of the steel, as certainly as cutting directly on a sharpening stone. And the discomfort felt when manipulating the knive becomes unavoidable once it is dull, no matter how well the handle is made.
So before recommending buying a new knife with a premium steel and a top notch handle, i would first investigate on the circumstances under which that person is having issues with edge retention while simply processing meat.
great team, covering all the bases.
Thank you for saying when a knife is made in USA. That is very important to me. Cheers!
Hey DCA, you guys should do a video about Emerson and his influence on knife making with his wave opener and other innovations.
Deep carry pocket clips are arguably more secure and/or likely to hit anything if you work in tight quarters.
How much bur do we ingest from foods processed with knives? What's the safest steel to use for food processing?
Please do an in-depth on handle materials.
I would like a general use/Santuko Damascus Steel kitchen knife. Do you have any suggestions in the low, mid, and high price ranges?
As far a Chef knives , Cold Steel has some decent ones made with 4116 Krupp steel which in my experience holds an edge similar to VG10 and they are only around $30 or so , So if you don't have $150 to spend on an over-priced Fallkniven knife , try Cold Steel , you won't be disappointed... 👍🖖
DCA, I recently bought a Kansept Accipiter. l love the knife, but hate the pocket clip. It grabs insanely coming out of the pocket and is a major pain to put back in the pocket due to the hard angle on the underside of the milled titanium clip. Can this be fixed by taking the clip off and taking a dremel wheel to that hard edge?
What is a good pocket knife with carbon steel blade which locks open, quick opening, & pocket clip?
Interesting topic, I have a Slipjoint (with adjustable hardware) where the backspring is incredibly strong, so opening and closing it is a chore. Was wonder if there's a method or trick to make it easier to open or is it only when it "breaks in". Was also wondering if it does "break in" will it actually become easier to open and close?
RE: Thin, strong, light knives... I love the Code 4 series. I have one of each (clip, drop, tanto), and I think they are some of the most under-rated knives ever made. As far as the fidgety knives question, I've always found a good, well-made flipper-frame lock to be pretty fun to fidget with. I play with my ZT 308 all the time. Also, I've been using my axis lock with one finger for years, haven't had a spring break yet.
Kershaw dividend - aluminum handle, super thin, i like the CMP D2 composite blade. Super nice for 90$
For the thin light edc that has to be strong definitely the Cold Steel Airlite. Would go the drop point over the Tanto shown in the video.
David J. How do you sharpen the curved in part of a kukri blade ?
How would you rate one of those Tungsten Carbide blades for thin, stong knives.
"To each their own out there". I'm veering off knives here, but that is the best line ever, the comment of the interwebs all time! The internet connects us yes, but we are still individuals with individuality. Yours may not be "my" choice and vice-versa. That gets lost online. You/your company is doing it right. All spectrums covered, cost, materials etc... Stay neutral...."just the facts ma'am" 💯
I wish tops made the frog market special knives in s35vn, those knives are thin thin, great kitchen knives
That would be sweet! -DCA
I do agree with the Cold Steel Code 4. beautiful knife for the price. solid tight lockup top quality steel. if you want a little lighter I would suggest the Cold Steel American Lawman. same S35VN steel. all in the $100 price range.
One steel one handle material… depends. Depending on the application, A2 with green canvas micarta for my fixed blade but the most experience is with S30V and M390. But I’ve heard S60v is like M390 but tougher, maybe that with micarta or G10, too many options lol
S35VN is the best steel. Great retention, but still relatively easy to sharpen.
For fixed blades, wooden handles all the way. Wood is comfy and reliable in all conditions and in every circumstance. For folders, titanium - strong and light.
Hi DCA. When I am thinking thin, light and strong, the ANV A200 comes immediatly to my mind. It is really strong, very light and thinner than most full size folding knives.
Lots of Japanese kitchen knives do come in steels like; R2, ZDP-189, HAP-40. But I do take your point about VG-10 as a core steel in not too expensive knives that can be kept sharp quite easily.