Great video explaining shift shaft. I muscled my out in even bolted everything. After my screw up I tried putting the shifter in neutral gear and it would not budge. I pulled the out drive back out again and took a breather. Grabbed my kids squeeze it drink sat on my couch contemplating on hiring a professional if I couldn't get it. I then found your video it was almost like a angel coming down to rescue me. I did exactly what you said line up the shift shaft and walla it went right in just as fast as you did yours. Thanks I appreciate the help sir. I hope didn't damage anything on my first attempt due to my lack of knowledge:-(.
Man, you make it look so easy!!! I had to jack the back of the trailer / boat up a little to get the clearance I needed but could not have done it without your video. Thanks Chris, you rock!
Thanks for the great video - best I have seen on the web. It is as easy as it looks - once you figure out the trick of getting the splines to line up and close the last 1" gap. For me it was hand placement. I placed myself to the left of the outdrive, placed my left hand on the tip of the lower outdrive torpedo, and my right hand on one of the prop blades. My drive required a hearty tug on the prop blade to get it to move slightly counter clock wise and line up.
Great video, I'm glad I found this prior to reinstalling the alpha on my boat. I didnt fully grasp the instructions in the Mercruiser manual regarding turning the prop to align the shift shaft. All the best!
your video helped me today, i was trying for about 2 hours and gave up. then i went to you tube and saw this video. you are my hero went back and tried, got in about 10 minutes thanks
Thanks so much, Chris. Last night I concluded my first Mercruiser swap and when i went to dry fit the outdrive, something was awry... This video solved that! And like a magic spell, the outdrive went right in on the next try (and I didnt even need to use the MerKick tool! )
Yes it's possible. Actually it's quite easy with a Gen II as the cable screws in from the aft. Just remember to tie a piece of cord to the end of the old cable BEFORE you pull it out. Then attach the cord to the new cable and let it be the 'path guide'....
These videos are for instructional purposes only. If you have a problem that is not covered in one of my videos, please visit a marine mechanic or a forum (iBoats is a good one) and post your problem for help there. As much as I would like to help people on an individual basis, I just don't have the time.
Thanks for the advice! I will have to pull the drive again to remove 3rd ring. Glad I didn't start it yet! Just did not seem right to me either! That's why i asked... thanks again!!!... out of habit i greased to 2 other O rings.. on the second time, should I dry them? or will it be OK? Thanks-Wes
Thanks so much for the info shift cable is in .Reverse is engaging diagram showed 3 o rings on out drive shaft. there are only 2 groves i put the third one to the base of the shaft . In this position it will mate with face of the inner race of gimble bearing is this correct? thanks again wes
hi - very gr8 vid thanks! pulled mine today, cleaned her up and re installed - was stuck in fwd. Lower cable only has about 7mm of play (from ur shift install vid). I was adjusting the ctrl by hand cos other cable is stuck.. it worked fine for a bit but i think it popped out again :( any ideas? did i move it too far perhaps? new to stern drives! bought this last week.. 1976 mercruiser ford 351w searay 220.
Can you tell me more about the "size 9 calibrated installation tool"? I assumed you meant your foot, a Merc "Kick". My sterndrive is stuck about 1 and a half inches from the bell housing and will go in no further. I've tried turning the prop backwards, jiggling, shoving, and even kicking...but I'm afraid to kick too hard. Everything else is in alignment (cable & in forward gear).
Once the shift shaft is pointing straight it needs to stay that way. If you then turn the prop CW, the shift shaft will move to the wrong place. If you need to turn the yoke to align its splines with the splines in the coupler, TURN THE PROP CCW. It will be stiff, but that's because you're turning the water pump impeller as well... Just do as I did in the video and it will work....
As simply as possible, the prop shaft is locked into the forward gear by virtue of the design of the clutch. Turning the prop shaft forward ensures it stays locked in forward, and also rotates the whole assembly, backwards.... I'm sorry if this explanation doesn't help, but until you pull a gear housing apart and look at the parts, and understand how that all work together, you are just going to have to trust the process.
Just bought my first boat 92 bayliner . Working out the bugs .It set up for 3 years removed old gas replaced altnator and seapump Theproblem is no reverse lower cable is sticky and hard to move it is adjusted to 6inches disconnected it tried to pull it manually to get reverse no luck when I had the lower unit off i could get drive turning shift lever to 12 and reverse between 9 and 10 oclock. does that sound correct? Is it possible to replace a shift cable without removing the bell housing?
I just tried to put my stern drive on about 5 minutes ago and it stopped about 1 1/2 to 2 inches away , I got the bolts through the holes butthey wouldn't come out the other side. I pulled it out and I think I'm going to put grease all over the place and try it again lol
I finely got the alinement tool to go in but it goes in hard. I got marks on the bottom not on the top ( not sure but do i have to have the bolts tighten up in the back i left them loose cause i wasn't sure and not sure if that is part of my problem) anyway wether I rase or lower the engine the marks are always on the bottom. The bar just get tighter and super hard to push in. Not sure what to make of it.
I got my alpha one drive off. Had to put in a different engine and the spline is not alined now as to be expected. So i am trying to put it back in but my boat is not up high enough to have it be a straight shot in as it is hitting the ground. Can it be put back in with it being tilted up some, and can I hit it in with a rubber mallet or a dead hammer or do i have to drive it to a place were its able to be down all the way. its muddy from lots of rain and hopping i do not have to move it, but will find a way if thats whats best.
Okay, I have a friend with a alignment tool. Is it true that before I put the stern drive back on I need to turn the prop counter clockwise at the same time I turn the shimmy shaft clockwise in order to put the drive into gear? Also how do I align the engine? Would I need a overhead winch?
Puttin gthe drive in gear before installing, yes... Control box selector also needs to be in forward gear... To align the engine, look at my alignment video.... Overhead winch... No.
Hi, I get to the step where I need to turn the prop so the spline turns and matches up with the inside of the boat, but when I put the out drive in forward gear the prop won't turn any further counter clockwise and just gets stuck there until I turn it clockwise to release it. Is there any reason you can think of this might be happening?
hello I have an alpha one gen one that I just put a new water pump in and after putting the loer unit back on I found the shift shaft does not lock in forward or reverse gear, you can easly move it with your fingers without any click or feeling of it locking into gear,, is this normal.. I have done many outboard water pumps and the shifter has never been easy to shift by turning the shift shaft ,, is there something broke in my lower unit,, any help would be great,, thank you for the videos,,
DO NOT put an 'O' ring against the base of the shaft. It will create excess load on the unis, drive bearings and the gimbal bearing, causing premature failure. There should be an 'O' ring groove just at the base of the splines. If there isn't, discard the third 'O' ring.
In the drive, use Mercs' own 'High Performance Gear Lube'. On the splines and the unis (if greaseable) any good quality grease, or Mercs' own grease...
I just had my bellows replaced. Now my first time out with it since job and I have no neutral or reverse. Could the mechanic have done something wrong?
Sounds like he didn't run the engine up and check everything was working properly before handing it back to you. An absolute no-no in my book... Take it back to him.
Jack up the front of the boat until the bell-housing is at the right level for the drive, then you don't have to lift it, just slide it in along the floor, just like I did in the video.... If you want to make it a difficult job, yes you can, but why wouldn't you make it easy????
I have this same engine. I am trying to get the stern drive back on however I can't. I do not have the alignment tool, however I think the motor is sitting a little low. How would I go about lifting it? The shaft goes into the coupling but the drive shaft will only go so far to only touch the studs. Do you have any tips for me? I took it off to replace my senders and now I can't go out until I can get it back on. I have greased everything but it seems as if it's jammed on something
Without an alignment tool you would just be guessing, and that could cost you the engine coupler, and to replace that means, engine out. Avoid any problems down the track and get yourself a tool, or take it to a shop to have them align it. But putting the drive on with the alignment out, even a little bit, will cause damage.
Okay, I have a friend with a alignment tool. Is it true that before I put the stern drive back on I need to turn the prop counter clockwise at the same time I turn the shimmy shaft clockwise in order to put the drive into gear?
I wasted my money buying that alignment tool I think I got lucky but everything was still inline tool spin freely spline went back in smoothly and mated flawlessly. If you're looking to save money first try to see if you can reinstall smoothly if not then order the alignment tool.
No, you didn't watse your money. Alignment should be checked at every service, so if you do your own service, you should be checking the alignment each year. The fact that the drive shaft went in smoothly is NOT an indicator that the alignment is correct...
Great video explaining shift shaft. I muscled my out in even bolted everything. After my screw up I tried putting the shifter in neutral gear and it would not budge. I pulled the out drive back out again and took a breather. Grabbed my kids squeeze it drink sat on my couch contemplating on hiring a professional if I couldn't get it. I then found your video it was almost like a angel coming down to rescue me. I did exactly what you said line up the shift shaft and walla it went right in just as fast as you did yours. Thanks I appreciate the help sir. I hope didn't damage anything on my first attempt due to my lack of knowledge:-(.
Man, you make it look so easy!!! I had to jack the back of the trailer / boat up a little to get the clearance I needed but could not have done it without your video. Thanks Chris, you rock!
Thanks for the great video - best I have seen on the web. It is as easy as it looks - once you figure out the trick of getting the splines to line up and close the last 1" gap. For me it was hand placement. I placed myself to the left of the outdrive, placed my left hand on the tip of the lower outdrive torpedo, and my right hand on one of the prop blades. My drive required a hearty tug on the prop blade to get it to move slightly counter clock wise and line up.
Great video, I'm glad I found this prior to reinstalling the alpha on my boat. I didnt fully grasp the instructions in the Mercruiser manual regarding turning the prop to align the shift shaft. All the best!
your video helped me today, i was trying for about 2 hours and gave up. then i went to you tube and saw this video. you are my hero went back and tried, got in about 10 minutes thanks
Thanks so much, Chris. Last night I concluded my first Mercruiser swap and when i went to dry fit the outdrive, something was awry... This video solved that! And like a magic spell, the outdrive went right in on the next try (and I didnt even need to use the MerKick tool! )
Thanks for posting this! I Was fighting it for 3 hours...watched this and had it done in 20 mins! Thanks Again!!!
Straight forward info. You make it look easy. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic PRO; you make it look easy! Thanks
I have the size 9.5 Mer-Kick tool myself but was hesitant to use it. Your video has given me the confidence needed. Thanks. ;-)
+RobbyWorld1 How hard did you have to kick? I'm having an issue getting my sterndrive on.
Great video - well done!
Many Thanks for your video .
Well done. All good info, no BS.
I do and I will tighten the engine down. thanks for your reply.
Nice job Chris!
WOW your so cool, i needed for this 3 fu.... Hours.....turning the prop. was the Secret.... Cool!
Yes it's possible. Actually it's quite easy with a Gen II as the cable screws in from the aft. Just remember to tie a piece of cord to the end of the old cable BEFORE you pull it out. Then attach the cord to the new cable and let it be the 'path guide'....
Thank you!
great video, thanks for posting it. Is there any reason to put some gasket sealer on there or does it not need it?
These videos are for instructional purposes only. If you have a problem that is not covered in one of my videos, please visit a marine mechanic or a forum (iBoats is a good one) and post your problem for help there. As much as I would like to help people on an individual basis, I just don't have the time.
Thanks for the advice! I will have to pull the drive again to remove 3rd ring. Glad I didn't start it yet! Just did not seem right to me either! That's why i asked... thanks again!!!... out of habit i greased to 2 other O rings.. on the second time, should I dry them? or will it be OK? Thanks-Wes
do you know about the instillation with an omc stern drive is it similar to alpha one
Thanks so much for the info shift cable is in .Reverse is engaging diagram showed 3 o rings on out drive shaft. there are only 2 groves i put the third one to the base of the shaft . In this position it will mate with face of the inner race of gimble bearing is this correct? thanks again wes
hi - very gr8 vid thanks! pulled mine today, cleaned her up and re installed - was stuck in fwd. Lower cable only has about 7mm of play (from ur shift install vid). I was adjusting the ctrl by hand cos other cable is stuck.. it worked fine for a bit but i think it popped out again :(
any ideas? did i move it too far perhaps? new to stern drives! bought this last week.. 1976 mercruiser ford 351w searay 220.
man i was trying for an hour today no go.. maybe it is the damn orings and by turning the prop cw it doesnt move the shaft at all??
Shifter splined rod (New SEI drive) wants to keep slipping out of gear...shift coupler tube does not want to stay in place, keeps falling down...HELP.
Can you tell me more about the "size 9 calibrated installation tool"? I assumed you meant your foot, a Merc "Kick". My sterndrive is stuck about 1 and a half inches from the bell housing and will go in no further. I've tried turning the prop backwards, jiggling, shoving, and even kicking...but I'm afraid to kick too hard. Everything else is in alignment (cable & in forward gear).
Once the shift shaft is pointing straight it needs to stay that way. If you then turn the prop CW, the shift shaft will move to the wrong place. If you need to turn the yoke to align its splines with the splines in the coupler, TURN THE PROP CCW. It will be stiff, but that's because you're turning the water pump impeller as well... Just do as I did in the video and it will work....
Thanks, this helped me. The kick did it ;)
As simply as possible, the prop shaft is locked into the forward gear by virtue of the design of the clutch. Turning the prop shaft forward ensures it stays locked in forward, and also rotates the whole assembly, backwards.... I'm sorry if this explanation doesn't help, but until you pull a gear housing apart and look at the parts, and understand how that all work together, you are just going to have to trust the process.
Just bought my first boat 92 bayliner . Working out the bugs .It set up for 3 years removed old gas replaced altnator and seapump Theproblem is no reverse lower cable is sticky and hard to move it is adjusted to 6inches disconnected it tried to pull it manually to get reverse no luck when I had the lower unit off i could get drive turning shift lever to 12 and reverse between 9 and 10 oclock. does that sound correct? Is it possible to replace a shift cable without removing the bell housing?
Turn the prop CCW while turning the shift shaft CW....
Thanks...
I just tried to put my stern drive on about 5 minutes ago and it stopped about 1 1/2 to 2 inches away , I got the bolts through the holes butthey wouldn't come out the other side. I pulled it out and I think I'm going to put grease all over the place and try it again lol
I finely got the alinement tool to go in but it goes in hard. I got marks on the bottom not on the top ( not sure but do i have to have the bolts tighten up in the back i left them loose cause i wasn't sure and not sure if that is part of my problem) anyway wether I rase or lower the engine the marks are always on the bottom. The bar just get tighter and super hard to push in. Not sure what to make of it.
+R Reichel Make sure you have all the right washers and spacer under the rear engine mount, and yes, it needs to be torqued up to do the alignment.
I got my alpha one drive off. Had to put in a different engine and the spline is not alined now as to be expected. So i am trying to put it back in but my boat is not up high enough to have it be a straight shot in as it is hitting the ground. Can it be put back in with it being tilted up some, and can I hit it in with a rubber mallet or a dead hammer or do i have to drive it to a place were its able to be down all the way. its muddy from lots of rain and hopping i do not have to move it, but will find a way if thats whats best.
+R Reichel Yes, you can put it in with a slight tilt, but you're just making it difficult for yourself, especially if you haven't done it before.
Okay, I have a friend with a alignment tool. Is it true that before I put the stern drive back on I need to turn the prop counter clockwise at the same time I turn the shimmy shaft clockwise in order to put the drive into gear? Also how do I align the engine? Would I need a overhead winch?
Puttin gthe drive in gear before installing, yes... Control box selector also needs to be in forward gear... To align the engine, look at my alignment video.... Overhead winch... No.
What about the large o-ring that comes with the gasket kit?
Jeekinz If the existing one is damaged, replace it. If it's still in good condition, leave it.
Hi, I get to the step where I need to turn the prop so the spline turns and matches up with the inside of the boat, but when I put the out drive in forward gear the prop won't turn any further counter clockwise and just gets stuck there until I turn it clockwise to release it. Is there any reason you can think of this might be happening?
That's how it's designed.
You've seen the video... It IS that easy....
hello I have an alpha one gen one that I just put a new water pump in and after putting the loer unit back on I found the shift shaft does not lock in forward or reverse gear, you can easly move it with your fingers without any click or feeling of it locking into gear,, is this normal.. I have done many outboard water pumps and the shifter has never been easy to shift by turning the shift shaft ,, is there something broke in my lower unit,, any help would be great,, thank you for the videos,,
infrareddreamz No detents in a Mercruiser drive. What you feel (or don't feel) is normal...
DO NOT put an 'O' ring against the base of the shaft. It will create excess load on the unis, drive bearings and the gimbal bearing, causing premature failure. There should be an 'O' ring groove just at the base of the splines. If there isn't, discard the third 'O' ring.
what type of grease and oil should I use?
Great video
In the drive, use Mercs' own 'High Performance Gear Lube'. On the splines and the unis (if greaseable) any good quality grease, or Mercs' own grease...
I just had my bellows replaced. Now my first time out with it since job and I have no neutral or reverse. Could the mechanic have done something wrong?
Sounds like he didn't run the engine up and check everything was working properly before handing it back to you. An absolute no-no in my book... Take it back to him.
Jack up the front of the boat until the bell-housing is at the right level for the drive, then you don't have to lift it, just slide it in along the floor, just like I did in the video.... If you want to make it a difficult job, yes you can, but why wouldn't you make it easy????
I have this same engine. I am trying to get the stern drive back on however I can't. I do not have the alignment tool, however I think the motor is sitting a little low. How would I go about lifting it? The shaft goes into the coupling but the drive shaft will only go so far to only touch the studs. Do you have any tips for me? I took it off to replace my senders and now I can't go out until I can get it back on. I have greased everything but it seems as if it's jammed on something
Without an alignment tool you would just be guessing, and that could cost you the engine coupler, and to replace that means, engine out. Avoid any problems down the track and get yourself a tool, or take it to a shop to have them align it. But putting the drive on with the alignment out, even a little bit, will cause damage.
Okay, I have a friend with a alignment tool. Is it true that before I put the stern drive back on I need to turn the prop counter clockwise at the same time I turn the shimmy shaft clockwise in order to put the drive into gear?
I wasted my money buying that alignment tool I think I got lucky but everything was still inline tool spin freely spline went back in smoothly and mated flawlessly. If you're looking to save money first try to see if you can reinstall smoothly if not then order the alignment tool.
No, you didn't watse your money. Alignment should be checked at every service, so if you do your own service, you should be checking the alignment each year. The fact that the drive shaft went in smoothly is NOT an indicator that the alignment is correct...
Yeah, just one or two... :-)
I wish it was that easy...but it's not. Drive splines-gear shoe-prop in forward position...all have to line up!
I believe that's what I'm doing wrong. I'm not sure how to put the drive into gear
Wonderfull!!
Not to mention the drive weight...over 100 lbs!
if only it was that easy
No gasket sealer.
Just leave them as is. Any excess grease is gone by now.
Err, it is that easy. You (and everyone else) can see the video. It's not a difficult job!
Errr, didn't you read the title? MERCRUISER... not Volvo.
NO audio No sound anymore !
George Slim Still works for me.
Sounds like you're looking for an easy job that pays well with doing too much. Try politics..