Replacing the U-Joint, Exhaust, & Shift Cable Bellows & Shift Cable -- Mercruiser Alpha One Gen 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I install brand new OEM u-joint bellows, exhaust bellows, shifter cable, shifter cable bellows, and trim senders. This was completed off the boat but the process would be the same if the transom assembly was still attached to the boat. This is tedious and messy but if you have great determination you will see the job through. I hope this "how to" video helps you out. I tried to cover the mistakes I made so hopefully it saves you time. If you found this video helpful, let me know with a like or even better a comment below.
To purchase any of the components individually (only order actual Mercruiser/Quicksilver products):
U-Joint Bellows & Retaining Ring -- amzn.to/41UuvLY
Bellows Adhesive -- amzn.to/3Zwm33P
Exhaust Bellows -- amzn.to/3ZT9uzy
Shift Cable Bellows -- amzn.to/3F8SUnp
Trim Senders -- amzn.to/3mBrjou
Lower Shift Cable -- amzn.to/3F8gr7M
SEI Shift Cable Tool -- amzn.to/3LcZZaa
Hinge Pin Fiber Washers -- amzn.to/3mxI9V7
Mercruiser Alignment Tool -- amzn.to/3SXXxq1
Mercruiser Retainer Ring Installation Tool -- amzn.to/3IUf91m
Mercruiser Alpha Hinge Pin Tool -- amzn.to/3SYFtft
Foam Transom Seal -- amzn.to/3Leb9vz
Non-Greasable, Updated Gimbal Bearing -- amzn.to/3JsfIRD
Bell Housing Gasket Set -- amzn.to/3T34qpP
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
#Mercruiser #Bellows #Quicksilver
0:00 Intro
0:17 Attaching the U-Joint Bellows to the Transom Assembly
2:37 Attaching the Exhaust Bellows to the Transom Assembly
3:42 Installing Trim Senders
5:43 Installing the Speedometer Tube
6:26 Installing the Lower Shift Cable and Lower Shift Cable Bellows
9:21 Installing the Oil Reservoir Line
9:52 Installing the Raw Water Intake Hose
11:29 Installing Fiber Washers
12:30 Installing Bell Housing Hinge Pins
13:20 Attaching the U-Joint Bellows to the Bell Housing
17:52 Installing the U-Joint Bellows Retainer Ring
21:18 Attaching the Exhaust Bellows to the Bell Housing
24:20 Final Installation of the Hinge Pins - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Omg THANK YOU!!!!!! I tried using the bearing puller to push the retainer ring in, but never though of using the alignment rod. Works like a freaking charm. Especially, with the grease and some tapping. Actually, took the small hammer and tapped in more of a curve on the inside of the ring so it would slide on. Just pushed on after that. Good luck with the boat man. Going to finish mine and try to enjoy what's left of the warm weather.
Right on Bill. Comments like this mean so much to me. Very glad to hear it was helpful for you. Nice idea adding a little more curve to the ring. Good luck with your boat as well. Sounds like it is on the right track!! 🍻
@@605BOLT ya, well having trouble getting the drive on now lol and.... The trim up isn't working but trim down is.. ugh
@@billb.3265 Dang it. Ya the drive can be a pain. I sometimes struggle with the lower shift shaft and the upper shift shaft lining up. Everything has to be all sorted when you push it in. 🤞
The trim issue could be due to the trim switches. I will have a video on that eventually but I am behind on editing. 🤦♂️
@@605BOLT ya, I jumped the solenoid, and it worked but barely. I think I didn't have enough amps cuz I was using a battery charger lol I'm going to go through them and clean them and check the wires. Any other advice on that would be appreciated.
Finally a quality video explaining how to replace the bellows. This was excellent. Thank you!
Appreciate you commenting. Means a lot and I hope the video got you going on your project. 🍻
VERY thorough! I especially like how to paused, zoomed and explained why you did what you did around 9:59. That was helpful to us non-tech folk... and I also liked how the music aligned with your closing shot. :) Good work, Neil!
Glad you liked it!
I appreciate you getting in close and focused with the camera and also pointing out the difficulties you had in doing each step. Thanks for keeping it real.
Thank you thank you for saying that. I screw stuff up no doubt. Hopefully it saved you some headache. Thank you for watching.
I couldn't find any boat mechanic who had the time or was willing to do this job so got suckered into doing it myself. This video is great, really appreciate all the detail and clever solutions to tricky steps. Many thanks!
Appreciate the kind comment!! I agree it sucks but there is a sense of accomplishment that comes with the job done right. Hope it serves you well for years to come. Have a great Memorial Day Weekend! 🇺🇸
Yours is by far the best "how to" video on the topic. The 3/8" threaded rod and fender washer idea for the exhaust bellows is brilliant! I took it a step further and made up two of them, duck taped an appropriately sized block of wood to one of them, and used the block as a fulcrum: after inserting both into the exhaust bellows, squeezing the other ends together simulated the $60 mercruiser tool. It also worked well.
Oh haha nice. Ya I never thought of that but that would work mint. Glad you found the video helpful. I try to catch as much detail as possible. I appreciate the kind words. 🙏
making your own tools is sometimes more fun than the actual job
@@craigmartin1761 it is. Adapt and overcome! 🍻
Was watching this trying to find the next video. Then saw that date of this one and realized it’s not uploaded yet 😅 can’t wait to finish the series!
Thanks much Brian. Ya I've been editing and working like crazy. Thanks for hanging in there! 👍
Thank you for the time and effort making this vid. I’m in the process of a complete engine swap and outdrive rehab on a 1992 Lund Sport Cabin. I have watched at least a dozen video attempts and although I learned a bit from each one yours is the first complete process with good light, video quality and audio. Im still struggling to get that ring set but I feel like tomorrow with your advise I will get it all back together!
Nice David! Sucks you had the problem to begin with but it is an amazing feeling to get it all done yourself. If you have any question at all, hit me up here and I will do my best to help if I can. Thanks for the nice comment and for watching the videos. 🍻
Good Job on the repair and the video! I appreciate the admittance of trial and error, and needing to adapt and overcome.
You know how it goes I'm sure. "Find a way" as I say. Thanks for watching and the kind comment!! 🍺
Nicely done! Thank you. I once read a tip where you put bellows adhesive on both surfaces in a THIN layer. The thinner and the cleaner the better! Let it tack up then spray a little Windex on one or both adhesive surfaces and bellows slide right on. Gives you some time and movement to make sure they are all the way on and straight for the best clamping. I tried it on an exhaust bellows replacement and it was the key to success and that might be an understatement. My bellow went on easy and has not let loose in many, many uses of the boat plus storing for periods of time with outdrive up.
That's an excellent tip. I appreciate the heads up. Give it a few years and I'll be doing this project again. The joys of owning a boat haha. Thanks for commenting!
You bet! Thanks for this vid, too. I'm going to do all this to mine over the winter and you gave me a good jump start on what to do. Paul
Crushed it, enjoyed the video. Thank you 💪
Thanks man. Hopefully you got the job knocked out on your boat. 🍻
Thanks a lot for a great video. Those of us with limited means rely on this information.
Means a lot! That's the target demographic! Lol. Those that choose to help themselves. Good on you for taking on the task!
Good job to show us how to do ! Thx Man!
No problem. Hope it helps you out! Thanks for watching.
Good job with this video. It is the first one that I viewed that actually showed how the bellows went on. Having the out-drive mounting bracket off of the boat helped a lot in viewing. If anyone viewing can comment on the expected life of the bellows, that would be very helpful.
Thanks for the kind words. Most people say change bellows every 3-5 years or so. Should for sure last that long. Many report they last 10+ years. It's all what you feel comfortable gambling. I'll let mine go 5 years I think.
Great video!
Thanks homie. Kind of a long one.
Thank you, very educational.
Appreciate your kind words. Glad it helped!
OMG! The kink on the shift cable at about 16:50. Some pretty decent information though overall. Thanks.
I think it was just the outer sheath at this point. 🤣 I can see why you would be worried though.
Very nice workmanship!
Thanks! Been cruising along fine since this video.👌🤞
Well done!
Thanks!
Thanks! Great help😊
👍👍
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure. Hope you find it helpful!! Thank you for watching.
Nice job
Thanks David!! 👍
Great video man. I had a mechanic do this and watched him fail constantly. Wish I had watched this before
It's not easy to do. Big pain in the ass at times!
@@605BOLT yeah, I wish he had watched your video. You trust a mechanic to know what he is doing but you video proves he did not. Again thank you for a showing how to do it from this perspective
@@niolss it means a lot knowing it helped. Thanks for the kind words 🙏
Is it easier to pull the whole unit and work on it this way or keep the back plate attached ?
Its easier to do on the bench like this, sure. Just because you aren't under the ski deck mostly. That said, I had the engine out of the boat for other work so it was easy to take off and I needed to work on the gimbal ring. But if you are just doing bellows I would leave the transom assembly on the boat for sure. It's a lot of work to pull the entire engine and transom assembly. Almost every marine mechanic when they are doing bellows alone will leave the assembly on the boat and work it from the back of the boat sitting on a pail or short stool. It kind of sucks to work like that but it's less work in my opinion for sure.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!
Appreciate the kind words! Hopefully you're on the water soon!
the all thread and washer made tool was a good idea for the exhaust bellows, could use the same technique on the drive bellows
Definitely could. With the drive bellows I could get my hand inside. So that helps quite a bit.
Great video
Thank you sir. Hope you got your rig fixed up!
I’m waiting for gimble bearings a shift cable and a bellow. Next weekend I’ll start.
I used pvc for the retaining ring pushed by hand and some soapy water super easy
I think that's the method.
to get the aft side of the drive bellows on you just reach in with your finger tips into the convolutions of the bellows and pull it into place and install the retaining ring, it's pretty simple that way especially if it's on the boat
Ya it was easy once everything was lined up right. That zip tie was in the way at first.
21:42 nice to see my inspiration worked out pretty well.. But with the big shaft bellow, that's why I always use a bellow to fix it from the outside so I don't need a clamp in it ! (Y)
Did you comment previously? I don't understand your comment really but if you look at the tool that mercruiser recommends for exhaust bellows, this is just something simpler I put together with random scrap laying around the shop. I worked as an electrician so these pieces are readily available to me. Didn't want to buy the tool for 50 bucks or whatever it costs. Hope it helps you out.
@@605BOLT mean this one..
th-cam.com/video/qcCbmSDwscU/w-d-xo.html
lot of reaction on it .. works fine
but now I've got a tool, second hand
@@mrKramble oh nice. Ya I hope to never have to do this job again or anytime soon so if so I'll probably just run this junk again haha. Does the actual tool work well?
@@605BOLT yeah.. but I like it to install it without the hige pins
Does anyone have a good resource on how to re seal the gimbal housing to the transom when you get to that point?
I have a video on that. 👍
Now do it with the Gimbal Housing on the boat.
I will next time. And it will be easy.
I just did. Major pain in the ass, but I don’t have a gantry hoist to pull the engine.
It's a boat after all. Always a fight
Did you put bellow adhesive on the retaining ring ?
No not on the ring itself. Just on the outside of the bellows where it mates to the metal housing.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤
You're welcome!
Would you say doing the bell housing side first with the retaining ring... then installing the bell housing and doing the transom side with the hose clamp. Im getting ready to do this job and deciding which order i wanna do this.
I would generally start on the inside and work out.
@605BOLT okay good to know I watched a guy do an alpha 1 gen 1 the other way around so idk.
@@Mbrown553 I think you can get it done either way but I don't like reaching down an already goopy bellows.
@605BOLT yeah I agree bro. Thanks for a heads up.
Did you remember to hook the ground wire to the screw on the side? Was not done at the end of the video yet. Just an FYI not nitpicking as I usually seem to forget something myself. Thank you for the how to
I went and checked the boat just now and yes I did remember. Must have just forgotten to shoot that. There are a ton of those little ground wires running here and there all over that housing. Would be very easy to forget! Thanks for the heads up and commenting!! Glad you liked the video.👍
Should OME billows be used $300.00 or will the $50.00 knock off work?
I'm definitely going to buy the ring tool.
Thank you.
Knock off Chinese ones are definitely not a good choice. Many people end up doing it again after just a year with the cheap imitations. The rubber is of higher quality using OEM parts. 👍👍
What kind of tests can we do to check if the installation is sound before the boat goes back in the water?
Not much. It's one of those deals where you just send it and hope for the best. You can dip the boat in on the trailer first and check the bilge for water. At least that way you won't be taking water and sinking but rather you will be attached to the trailer still. But that's about it.
There's not much you can do, but if it leaks, it won't be a huge leak, so you'll have time to pull it out of the water. There is a grease seal behind the gimbal bearing which will help keep water out of the boat if the driveshaft bellow is leaking.
Did you leak @mchaves7663?
With Bellows adhesive. Aren't you supposed to put on each mating surface allow to dry then connect..as its just like contact cement.
It was so messy and goes off so fast that I was struggling to even get it into place in time. I bet that would be the best way but like I said, it was a rush as it is. Have you been quick enough to do it the other way? What is the trick?
use the bellows adhesive as the lubricant to seat the retaining ring instead of grease, like you'd said earlier it acts like a lubricant if used before it gets too tacky
That's a good idea.👍
in reference to the u-joint bellows seating ring trouble you had, ..there are two different depth grooves in the u-joint bellows where it seats onto the bell housing... you have to seat the bellows into the bell housing in the deeper of the two grooves (the second groove)... if not, you will never get the set ring to seat into place... and the ring will almost fall in when you have it correct.. if I remember correctly, it is the second groove in the bellows.
Ya I struggled with it at first but to your point, when its right, you know it. It just flops right in.
So what are the little silver clips on the bellow tubes for? They are in my kit but not on the tube. Do I put them on in a specific place and do I just clamp them down with a set of pliers?
Mine were already installed onto the bellows in the kit I purchased so I didn't need to do any further messing around with them. I can only assume they serve as some sort of grounding for the clamps or some other thing. I don't really know. Sorry I can't be more help.
they are to provide a grounding path from the drive, through the transom, to the engine. There's aluminum housings, stainless steel shafts, and plain steel bearings all connected together from prop to engine, and when in aqueous contact, this effectively becomes a battery of sorts. By having a ground connection between the segments, the electric currents which flow as a result of dissimilar metals will chose the grounding path, rather than suffer accellerated galvanic corrosion. The WORST thing you'd ever want to have happen, is have galvanic currents flowing through U-joint needle bearings and gimbal bearings- they'll pit rapidly, and self-destruct in a very inconvenient manner.
👍
Sorry, for some reason I thought the question was about grounding leads. The grounding CLIPS on the transom bellows are to make certain that the HOSE CLAMPS holding the bellows are grounded to the transom... again, for galvanic corrosion reduction... if electrolysis eats away the clamps, they'll break, leaving the bellows to detach from the assembly.
@@davekamp6590 no worries.
I’m struggling getting the retainer ring in as well. Where did you buy it?
Bought the great majority of my parts from JR Marine. I know for a fact the ring came from there but I imagine Amazon or other would probably have one. My issue was the bellows wasn't sitting just right in the little groove so take a look there. Might be where you're having troubles. Some said use dish soap to lube up the ring a little. I used an extremely small dab of grease smeared around.
@@605BOLT we got the bellow in the slot, just couldn’t get the retainer ring in with the new boot without that tool. The old bellow was fine, so we put it back in. I saved the new bellow in case it needs swapping out. I have to invest in one of those tools though. I do a lot of repairs on foots, Kimbles, etc.. thanks for the reply.
@@605BOLT oh and we used dish soap, assembly lube, and nothing worked. I think it’s impossible without that special tool honestly.
@@brandonterrell5271 I would definitely recommend the tool. Didn't work without it. Thought I would make something but it was easier with the tool no doubt. And they're cheap so that helps. Always like to hear the comments on people having good luck and bad. All part of the process.
did you take the engine out to take that part out?
The engine was out yes to get the entire housing off the boat. But the engine had to come out for rebuild anyway so it was kind of one of those "while I'm in here" type jobs. That and the gimbal ring was cooked.
But you don't need to take the entire housing out if you just need to do bellows. Hopefully that's the case for you.
Was that a bellow/seal replacement kit? If so, was it OEM/Quicksilver or random Amazon kit? Did you have any issues or leaks after running it?
I bought all my stuff from Ron at JR Marine. The stuff was all excellent quality. I have saved genuine quicksilver links via Amazon in the video description. Either way works out the same. Save a few bucks on Amazon but they should all be quicksilver brand parts.
If they are not quicksilver brand, return them.
@@605BOLT Appreciate the info and response. Have a great rest of the season dude.
@@bondaird7543 no problem. And no I haven't had any issues with any of the outdrive stuff since when the video was made. Forgot to mention that.
I liked the dark gansgta music 8:25
Lol. There isn't a lot of choice for copyright free music haha but I like that one too. 👍
Are you working on a Alpha one Gen one Mercruiser?
Close. This is an alpha one gen 2. Lots of the stuff shown works with both though.
@@605BOLT I noticed you had a oil line on the opposite side of the water hose- My Alpha one gen one has the water line but no oil line in that position shown on the video.
Right. That is due to the Alpha One Gen 1 not having an oil reservoir. The Alpha One Gen 2 has that hose and also has the oil reservoir. Sorry for the late response. Didn't see your question at first.
I can see why people like outboards
Ya it's a big job.
isnt there supposed to be a rubber ring that fits into that groove on the bell housing?
Do you have a time stamp of what specific part of the video you're talking about?
@@605BOLT at 17:44 you can see he has the bellows on with the lip of the bellows inserted into the groove on the bellhousing.. when i took mine apart there was a rubber ring separate from the bellows that was pressed into that groove. i could not get the new rubber ring to press into the groove, so i put the bellows on without it. was just wondering if anyone else had that problem lol
Oh i see what you're talking about. No there is not any type of o-ring or anything that goes in that groove. But he is me, and I hope you liked my video. If you have any other questions that come up, don't hesitate to reach out. There is a rubber ring that goes over the housing that inserts into this gimbal. Its about a quarter inch thick though.
@@605BOLT thanks for the reply. your right, it looks like the rubber ring goes on after the metal ring and seals against the stern drive. whoever put it together wrong must have had some skills cause i tried everything i could think of for a week and still couldn't do it lol
That ring you're talking about goes in. But it goes in later because you put it over the top of the driveshaft and slip it onto the snout of the upper that gets mated up. I don't put that rubber ring in until I reinstall the entire outdrive in a later video.
i have to do this to my boat about every 2 years noticed my lower bellows is gone so i guess you dont need it but its louder without it
Ya some say its not necessary to run the exhaust bellows. Much cheaper to stay ahead of it.
Why are you replacing your u joint bellows every 2 years???
Ok I see you used your finger tips and pulled the bellows. Good
Haha nice. I eventually got it. My first time with the bellows.
Keep at it, you're got good mechanical skills. Live and learn, hope it gives you years of good service. If you run into problems in the future, hit me and I'll help you all I can. About to pick a song out of my TH-cam Channel library to post on a music group on Face Book, probably some Deep Purple
Appreciate you saying that and offering help. Best way I know is to ask people who have experience in all things. Happy jamming. 🎧
Great video.... ✋
Thank you!! 🙏
I never heard of leaving the exhaust bellow off, has anyone tried that?
According to the Internet it has been done often. I have never personally tried it but I don't see why it would be a problem. Helps if your boat sits a bit higher in the water.
@@605BOLT yea that would make me nervous lol I wish they would of kept the older design like the 400 series, we ran that for 14 years in salt water never had a problem.
Same. The full bellows isn't really hard to put on and I have through hull cutouts on mine that are on a butterfly so it has loud mode and quiet mode. I guess leaving the bellows off the exhaust makes it louder a little. I wouldn't know. Many people seem to use the slip style exhaust. Doesn't actually make a seal but when the outdrive is down, the bellows slips over the mouth on the outdrive. See here... amzn.to/3kTKM2E
I am currently running that way. Bello is attached to the transom side only. You get some exhaust fumes at idle, and it is a little louder.
My understanding is you can run like that pretty much forever with no consequences.
Trick of the trade. dish soap just use a little bit NOT a lot Slid on like a glove
That's a good idea. Didn't think of that. I'll have to try that next time 👍
I thought the retaining ring goes inside the bellow… and you pull it up
Nope. This way is the way. You pound it down in there.
this shit will drive you crazy
Took me a few nights and some choice words.
you cant drive without exhayst below, becouse then you will have lot of air around propeller and it makes cavitation
People do it literally all the time.
This is totally false. Many MerCruiser R/1R/MR/Alpha/Alpha-One SS drives don't HAVE exhaust bellows, and some just have a rubber boot. The reason the exhaust bellows are omitted, is to reduce the exhaust backpressure at idle by allowing it to bleed off at the transom junction. This is significantly ABOVE the cavitation plate, so it has absolutely no effect on what happens around the propeller.
Cavitation, by the way, is not the proper term- Ventilation IS. Cavitation is when ambient pressure TRAILING the blades falls low enough that water in that area boils, then collapses, causing ultrasonic shock that erodes propeller blades. Ventilation is when air entrainment occurs in the path of waterflow into the propeller, causing a substantial increase in slip. Many propeller flanges are intentionally drilled just beneath the leading edge of each blade to introduce exhaust at low hull speeds to allow higher slip when initially climbing on plane. Once on plane, pressure at the rear of the propeller falls rapidly, and exhaust flow ceases to take the sideways path.
@@davekamp6590 my man Dave knows whats up.
The shift cable boot on the drive need to go over the exposed nipple and then the crimp clamp goes over all of that, otherwise you will eventually leak water into the boat,
I'm not sure I understand what you are describing.
@@605BOLT if you look at the video at 25:29, the brass nipple above the knuckle of your finger is where the boot should go over and clamped
sorry at 9:33 on the video, you'll see the nipple not at 25:29....my bad
23:36 scared the shit out of me.
Lol why is that?
otherwise nice job for a newbie
Thanks and I appreciate your comments. Means a lot that people find the videos interesting!
Great job man. I'm getting a weird knocking sound by my coupler. I hope it's just a Gimbel bearing, here's the video of what's happening with regards to the sound I'm getting. th-cam.com/users/shortsejTgRw6c_rQ?feature=share
Watched that video just now. I would be betting U Joints in the outdrive. If you pull the outdrive quick you should be able to see where those u joints could be sloppy or hitting something. Thanks for the kind words my man! Good luck!
BASICALLY.....................
Sorry. It must have been my word of the week. 😐
Nice video. Note that us old guys grew up with music that was not computer generated. No matter how good your video is that God awful crap hurts to have to listen to. Just sayin.
I hear you. Not much to pick from on the free TH-cam Library. U could listen to me breathing. Haha
Dude…I wish I had $1 for every time you said so….sheesh…🤦♂️
It's bad. I realize it. I'm sorry. 😬😂 I even edit a bunch out in post haha.
Bellows aren’t that important as long as you have a decent bilge pump
Lolol. To a certain extent, yes.
Really though, if you lose a u-joint bellows and it leaks even half decently, you are sinking.
@@605BOLT yup my u joint bellows are ripped and have to run my bilge pump every 30 minutes 😂 thank you for your videos man they’re going to help a lot
@@dynaryda8857 ha yep there's your sign. Good job troubleshooting as many boats have been lost that way. If you have any questions along the way I'm happy to help if I can. Hope you get her fixed up!
@@MrStangdawg lol yep. It will delay sinking, but you're gonna probably sink haha
Moaning about what you say, way too many moaning, great video and thankyou for posting it.
Haha. Got a time stamp of the moaning? Always trying to get better.
No not you moaning, I meant in the comments, about saying things over. The video has opened my eyes at what I have to now do on whilst on the boat. That in itself is gold, don't care if you say basically and so the whole video. Most don't show how in depth it is, so thanks
oh i gotcha haha. I have a few words I say over and over. Alright is another one I can't get away from. Thanks for the kind words friend.
good luck with routing the shift cable, be prepared to pull you hair out
Ya.... about that..... spoiler alert, I ended up needing to pull the engine again to get it routed correctly. lol
@@605BOLT Crap, I could have walked you thru that w/o pulling the engine, but again there are some tricks and it's still a bitch.
@@1mikera when I put the engine in I accidentally routes the cable in between the toe rear mounts and the coupler haha. It was basically resting against the coupler. It's in one of my later videos. Noob mistake but that's how I learn. 👍
Can't you use the old one to pull the new one through?
Sure but if you watch the rest of my videos you will see that this entire boat got taken apart and put back together. I made a little routing mistake. But if you're just doing shift cable then sure that would work.
Dude, you need to stop using the word so, so damn much
Yes. True. Haha
Please for us old timers who grew up with real music don't play any of that computer generated crap. It hurts like losing oil pressure in your motor that was running great.
Lol u can keep whining about it but these videos are over a year old. My breathing isn't anything anyone wants to listen to.
Not a good guide to this process
How can I make it better for you?