MerCruiser Alpha Sliding Clutch and Shift cut out switch explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2022
- In this video I show and tell how a MerCruiser Alpha drive sliding clutch and shift cut-out switch work together. This video applies to all #1, R, MR, Alpha One and Alpha One Gen II outdrives.
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, thanks so much for making it! I like to understand the theory behind how things are supposed to work (the cut-out switch in this case) before attempting to make adjustments or repairs. I am glad I found this video as it described exactly what I wanted to know. My boat has an Alpha One gen 1 and when I got it the upper section of the drive was destroyed (many missing gear teeth) and the previous owner told me there had been an issue with the shift cut-out switch. It does have the newer style plunger type switch and I want to make sure it is set up properly before I test the new drive in the water. Thanks again for the super helpful video!!!
Glad it helps, lots of folks really don't know how it works.
Best explanation video I have ever seen thanks
All I can say is thank you.
Thank you for the positive feedback!!
Priceless
Very helpful video, thank you for taking the time to explain it
Thank you my friend ... good info had some issues today you helped me out. Operate a 1972 IO Starcraft Chiefton. For 17 year up on the Amazon and the last 30+ years on the São Francisco river NE Brazil.
Thanks. Great video
Thanks, that is extremely helpful!!!
Very well explained, thank you
Your very welcome! Thank you for the positive feedback
This has got to be the Best Video on alpha m r and 1 outdrives on the internet....😊😊 I have a 1980 bayliner Saratoga with 228 mercruiser and alpha type omc drive and had the switch cutting out in reverse. Tried to do the slow engagement and disconnect (wire) interupter now it wont go in forward trying to get it out if reverse. Only neutral and reverse now.. Im told the cable may be stretched???
Remove the cable from the shift bracket( the one that that leads from the drive to the shit bracket). See if it feels real stiff to move. Next Start the engine and manually try to shift it into gear. If it will shift change the cable. Also look at the control cable to ensure its not got a ruptured outer jacket.
Nicely said. Makes perfect sense. Perfect gear mesh every time and cannot pop out of gear like a car trans with bad synchros. Slow it down some to allow separation
Thank you for the positive feedback, AND especially your end statement. Thank you for your support and helping me improve my videos!! I will work on slowing down for comparisons.
@tedsmarinerepair8956 you're welcome. I didn't mean you slowing down. You did great. I meant slow the gear down to allow separation, lol.
Good knowledge!! Thank you!
great video thanks
Crystal clear🤘
Thank you so much for this video! I had no idea I was causing problems by shifting in and out of gear too slowly (when maneuvering around in a marina) rather than making positive movements in and out of gear.
Glad it helped! Enjoy the summer!
I have an old 79 StarCraft with the mercruiser engine and drive that I bought used about 20 years ago and still have it, I was just learning and didn’t realize that the previous owner had simply disconnected the cut off switch, so for the first few years I had the idle really low to work or I had to shut the engine off to get out of gear, after that I hooked the switch back up, wow what a difference, with your advise I just replaced the shift cable and shift shaft seal the engine was really out of alignment too, what I understand that no one makes a direct replacement cut out switch anymore, I don’t know if that’s true, thank you so much for your videos Sir 👍😁
Glad to help! I'm not sure if there is a direct replacement for the old type of cut out switch. I would remove it and Google the part #
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 luckily mines working great
If I had a dollar for every one of those......
Most older drive units have that system, and some of those parts are getting hard to find.
I found a way to machine rounded shift dogs on those gears to make them engage nice and solid again. It makes me money and saves the customer money at same time.
thank you!
Thanks a lot
Hey Ted this was a great find! What are the chances you could do a similar video for the Bravo 3? I have a Mercruiser 5.7 EFI with the Bravo 3 that keeps stalling when put in the forward gear at idle speed. Wondering if it could be the same cutout switch cable issue.
Awesome video! I understand the sliding clutch concept. And the slowing of the engine in order to shift. But it's how the engine is slowed is what is causing me a fit. I was just about to attack the switch you referenced that :"people that don't know what they are doing" go after 😂
I will say I have had just about all I can stand of mercruisers.
So I have an older mid 70 Cy. How do I Start from scratch on cable adjustment? Like everything unhooked from. Both or one end?
Hey Ted, great video as always! Do you have any videos on Volvo’s steering control unit evc-e2 maintenance or fluid changes?
Not yet, have not gotten into that yet.
Hi excellent video thank you
I have a 3.0 and Alpha one gen2 shifts perfectly out of gear forward and reverse. I am a little concerned about the loud clunk when I shift into f and r my old outboard was much quieter.
I have tried reducing the engine idle speed down as low as it will go around 650 rpm but that didn't make the clunk any less. I would like to know if the loud clunk is normal on alpha gen 2
From memory I have a 17" pitch 3 blade aluminium prop with plastic insert hub I imagine a heavier stainless steel prop would be worse
Thank you Greg
Yes it is normal to hear a loud engagement of the drive when shifting. Nothing to be concerned with. Even with a cone clutch, when shifting a DPS drive they are very loud as well.
Could you place a link to the video where you talk about changing that cable?
Hi Ted, Thanks for the great video. What should I do for shift cut when I have fitted an HEI all in one Dizzy? Therefore no neg side of the coil to ground.
Ohhh, I'm not sure about that one. Is it a marine rated ignition system, i.e., ignition protected?
Thank you for this video. I have an alpha one gen 2. Do you have a video showing how to adjust the cutoff switch to properly to be timed with the shift
Not yet, will hopefully do that on a live engine after I change a shift cable. It will be a good one to do
Great video,
On shift plate you are using for the demo there is a valve that goes to the trim pump, same as my 1980 Nordic mine has a newer style shift plate now, the valve is hooked up laying in the bilge. what function does it serve? I'm thinking it is a by pass for the trim pump( it loops from the trim pump through the valve and back to pump) at high or low speeds to control the rate of trim
Exactly on realy old #1 drives it was used to lock the hydraulic fluid while in reverse.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 lock it as in by passing the pump pressure, then I should be able to put a plug in the pump supply and return for the bypass and get ride of the clunky thing in my bilge?
Absolute best explanation ever.
Thanks Ted, great video! I have a 2012 Mercruiser 3.0 with Alpha and shifting into neutral has a delay of a couple seconds. Also requires a lot of force on the shift lever to get in and out of neutral. Had shifter cable replaced but did not fix it. Thinking about trying the quick silver upgraded shift interrupter kit 864363A-1. Is that a good next step in your opinion?
I would also check the cable from the shifter to the drive bracket. I'm finding more cables binding up
Does the shift lever move easier when the engine is off? If so, you have a shift interrupter issue., if not, follow teds recommendation.
After changing my shift boot a rebooking up my shift cable my boat won’t go into neutral while running but will if I shut it off it does great going into forward and reverse
Shift lever into nuetral, Start it up, disconnect the cable and see if you can manually move the cable to get it into nuetral position. Then adjust the cable barrel to fit the shift bracket
I’ve watched this video 5 times and appreciate this so much, I have an 85 and replaced the upper cable and the plate but it is hitting cutout and staying triggered going in reverse (out of water on muffs) I set bottom cable to 6” while in pushed in all the way and top cable lined up than 4 turns out I don’t know what else to do ? Thank you so much
This is new style push button not rocker
hi ted great informative video i have alpha one outdrive the shifter stuck on me out on lake its in neutral but will not budge foward or backwards please advise
It sounds like the shift interlock in the control has failed or the cable is locked up. Did you try nuetral only to see if the control will move the throttle cable
I’ve had many problems with this and followed your instructions to replace the shift shaft cable, but I’m still having a problem with the disconnect or interrupter switch. Interrupter does not go back into the slot or the valley. Does this has anything to do with the other cables, please help I’ve been struggling with this for years, I’ve also had an idea of using the safety shut off next to the gear selector and try to imitate the shift interrupter at that point where it shuts off the engine momentarily when I put it in forward and backward or take it off gear I meant
Hello I have mercruiser with alpha 2 we having issues with the shift interrupter. When I place it in gear it cuts of and that’s because the switch roller doesn’t go back to the center like it should and I’m not sure what i need to do to solve this problem, I’ve been messing with it for too long and really need help , thanks in advance
I recently Replaced my Thunderbolt V ignition module to a MSD ready to run distributor. To get my shift cutoff interrupter switch to work, do I run the white cutoff switch wire to the coil negative?
Yes
Dumb me, I thought the button was depowering the engine. I read somewhere that the switch kills a carb engine but only kills 4 of 8 cyl on a mpi. These aren't "clutches" but dogs or pawls. I threw the ball point pen spring helper away-good?
Hi Ted, you look like you would be the guy that might put me on the right path.
My mercruiser 165 hp 4 cyc, Alpha Gen 1, once I'm on step doing 25 knots, it slips in and out of gear with a hell of a bang as you can imagine, does this every 20 secs or so. I did a adjustment to shift cables etc with exact measurements.
What does you gut tell you first thing.
Cheers
Fred
If it shifts normally into forward Neutral, reverse but popping in and ouf gear, then the clutch pawls on the forward gear and sliding clutch are rounded over. Needs a lower unit rebuild/replacement.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thank you for time Ted. I found a complete rebuilt one for $1300, gonna grab that this weekend and give a go.
If you're ever in Campbell River in the summer andwant to bonk some nice chinook salmon, look me up.
@@silkstreamdesigns sounds good!
Hi Ted, I need help understanding Neutral position on my OMC Cobra. When I’m in the water and In Forward gear, I often can not get back into neutral. Prop never fully stopped spinning unless I kill the engine. Once I do that, I can get it to nest in to neutral. How can I adjust? Please help. Thanks
Please contact me at marinedoc01@yahoo.com for consultation. Thanks Ted
Have A cabin cruiser with dual screws, when backing up if need to spin more and want to put my right motor in forwards at a slow speed it chatters and I have to push past it to get it into gear what would that be
Cable problem
my shift cut out switch does not line up with the indent..is there a way to adjust...Thanks for all the vids.
Please email a couple pics to marinedoc01@yahoo.com
Just changed water pump alp 1 gen 1. after reinstall of lower drive still no grease, when in forward prop locks in CCW direction (turned by hand) & turns in CW direction with a popping noise. 6 pops per 1 prop rev. Neutral is free. Reverse is just opposite of forward with popping in CCW. Previously no popping in either direction.
That's normal.
I just bought an older Wellcraft with an inboard outboard MerCruiser and it dies when I shift into reverse and I was told it’s just needs a linkage adjustment is that a possibility?
It is possible it's way out of adjustment but you would have to shift into forward almost into the throttle area and reverse would be almost instant engagement when shifting.
Ted, When I hit big waves, Merc A1-G1 3.0 140 hp, my engine shuts off and has no problem restarting. Do you know what I need to target first. People on the I-boats forum says it could possibly be the interrupter. Any ideas?
It definitely sounds like an ignition voltage issue.
I would start at the ignition fuse at the dash (purple wire) and work my way down by wiggling the harness connections while it's running. Then on to the ignition coil wiring. The interrupter is part of the the circuit but I doubt that's the issue.
Hello.
Cutt of only for out of gear?
From F to N and from R to N ?!
Or cut of also when go in gear?!
From N to F and N to R ?!
Only when coming out of gear.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 that helps, thanks Ted.
Hello friend, good video! I bought a 1970 model 120hp Mercruiser. The engine runs perfectly, but the gears don't come in and it's only in neutral. I took out the upper axle cover and it does turn, but apparently the gears don't engage, what could it be? I moved the cable manually because I thought it was stuck but nothing, it just clicks back and forth. Greetings from Argentina!!
Could it be the gearbox switch?
With the boat out of the water with the engine OFF NOT running, shift it into gear and see if the propeller locks by turning it counter clockwise, try shifting it by hand with the cable disconnected.
You can then shift it into reverse to see if the prop locks when turning it clockwise.
If it does not lock in either direction it is likely in the lower unit and needs to be rebuilt.
Thank you very much for answering! I took out the entire device and put the gears manually to one side and the other, luckily they engage perfectly, apparently it is the cam that comes from the cable that is worn. It is normal that when the reverse is engaged while the axle is in motion it remains engaged but when the brake is applied it jumps and the opposite gear is automatically put into place?
If you have removed the drive and it shifts by hand - prop locks clockwise and counter clockwise when shifting it, It may just be the washer that goes on top of the shift shaft on the lower unit. please email me at marinedoc01@yahoo so I can send you a couple pictures of where the washer is.@@germanpenagarcia4581
My cut out switch doesn’t move / engage when shifting. How to solve this?
what was the purpose a=of the reverse lock valve on the end. I have that on mine
Do you mean for very old power trim systems?
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 yes. I am going to do the plate upgrade. I can't find any info on the reverse lock valve
@gdebrango upgrade to Mr or newer pump assembly, problem solved. Plumb hoses to pistons
I have a 1978 SeaRay that dies when shifted into reverse.
As you move the lever back it trips the cutout switch and stays there.
Is this a bad cables, or just keep adjusting??
If it shifts into forward ok then a bad cable
I uploaded a video titled Switching gears
@user-ko3mg6ig1
That y shaped piece doesn't move when shifting. It fights to get out of gear. I can easily move it by hand but does not move when shifting.
It should move very momentarly to kill the ignition and slow the engine speed. If you move it manually while the engine is running in Neutral it should stall the engine
@Teds Marine Repair the switch works if I move it manually but that part doesn't move to activate it. Last time we were on the lake we almost hit a wall because I had to force it out of reverse and it went into forward. It seems like there's not enough drag on the cable to make it move.
My boat mechanic said the adjustments are near the end and I’ll prob be needing the lower unit. He said the clutch is wearing out. Can this be rebuilt?
Boat mech said it’s just about as cheap to install a lower unit. Help? He telling the truth?
If it chatters alot going into gear in both forward and reverse the clutch and messing gears are worn out. And aftermarket units are cheap, not sure on their life. I have 1100 hours on my 1.5 ratio alpha one. Resealed it back at 800 hours.
THATS NOT A ALPHA DRIVE🤦🏼♂️😂
You caught that! It is indeed an R lower unit, the predessor to the MR and Alpha One.