I just changed my PVC valve in my 2015 Wrangler JKU. Took some patience to get the torx screws out. Bottom was easy but the top took some time. I bought the Dorman PVC valve this time for $28 from Amazon. The OEM Mopar part was $80 I installed last time. They look identical. We’ll see how the Dorman holds up. The OEM part lasted for a little over a year and started leaking. Best thing I did was install the hex head bolts that came with the Dorman PVC valve. So much easier to get a small box end wrench on them instead of trying to feel around with a torx bit and try to hit the hole. Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
i'm really digging the Bob Ross demeanor. no loud home depot music playing over super fast camera shots. I'll be coming back to this to change out my 2014's pcv
Tackling this today. Should have done it when I did my tuneup last week but the PCV valve didn’t come in time and I didn’t want to wait to do the plugs. Going to follow your method and hope it goes smooth. I picked up a small thumb socket drive and think she will do the trick in the tight space for the bottom screw.
Finished. Went a different route. I took out the battery tray which left me enough room to access top and bottom screws from the top of the engine. Getting the hose off took the most time. Even using piks. Just took pressure and time, as they say in Shawshank. One thing I realized was that the little circular palm socket I got was not gonna work. Not enough leverage to crack the screw. I had bought a small ratchet but the damn holes were square. The torx bit wouldn’t fit. Ran over to harbor freight and got a pack of stubby ratchets. Those barely worked but did the job. If you’re going to do this swap, get one of the small ratchets like in this video. What a pain in the ass repair. Jeep can kiss my entire ass for this design.
@@RubiconUnlimitedI ordered one. It had a square opening and the torx bit would not go in. Harbor freight didn’t have any. Made do with a stubby. She’s done and I think I’d throw the jeep out it if ever needed another PCV valve. lol.
If you lay under the jeep with an extra long flat head screw driver you can each up from below under the inner center and get the screw driver under the hose lip and break the seal. Once seal broken, from the top pull hard and the hose comes off
Great video man. Need to do this on my son's 2018 JLR with 69K miles (111,000 kms) on it... not looking forward to it. Probably do it the same time I swap out his dead shocks. Shame on Chrysler for this ridiculous location for such an important part, though I'm glad they redesigned the part to be twist on with no fasteners.
wow buddy, finally a real video showing all the complications of the process. Thanks a lot for great video and high quality on it. probably a flexible drill bit extension can helps to remove screws.
I wanted something clear and concise that would also depict the kind of struggle you might experience. A flexible drill bit might work if you find the right angle, but it's tight! The mini wrench works great
Pro tip: The lower bolt of the PCV valve is easy to access... from underneath the vehicle with the gearbox removed! If you're doing a throwout bearing/clutch job, do the PCV valve at the same time. It's the only time it will ever be "easy".
I laughed when I got the small ratchet from jeep when I bought mine. Now I'm realizing they are laughing at us saying "have fun in them tight spaces " 😂😂😂
I just returned the cheap PCV valve and ordered a Mopar. Thanks for the very informative detailed video. DIY is the way to go with labor nowadays and I am a mechanic! Bro, what kind of suspension do you have??? wtf 😳 ❤❤❤
Like the video a lot. Very well thought out. Am I crazy or about 6:31 into the video did you hit your head on the hood just before you stepped out of frame?
2017 wrangler with 110k miles. I’m sure never changed. I have rough idle and air mixture on bank 1. Changed coil and plug for cylinder 1 as I also had that code. No vacuum leaks I can find, likely this my culprit??
When you plug in the new Pcv with the smaller hole (compared to the wide hole on the old on) will it just slide on easy or do you have to put force in it when pushing it on? I heard someone say they had to put some force on it to go through that smaller hole on the Pcv
My Jeep doesn’t leak or eat any oil between oil changes, but I have noticed oil on my air filter (it’s a white filter so it’s very easily noticeable), should I be doing my pcv?
@@jeepinintexas6215on start up there would be a plume of smoke that was constant. It did not happen all the time. The pvc was replaced shortly after we noticed. Has not happened since!
@@tensixtythreecomics so it seems your valve was stuck open then? I suspect mine is stuck closed as I have some oil leaks that have appeared from nowhere it seems. I replaced my driver's side valve cover because the spark plug seals were leaking and it was fine for months. Now they are leaking again and I suspect my rear main seal is also leaking.
could you tell me what this simple piece of plastic does? I mean I know it has to do with the oil but it's just a tube with rubber that mopar justifies selling for $100+ while an aftermarket dorman is about $25
@@RubiconUnlimited The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve is another emissions-control device. On the 3.8 litre V6 in the older JKs, it is on the back of the engine. There are plenty of videos showing how to replace the EGR on those engines. But so far, I haven’t been able to find any information on how it’s done on the 3.6 litre V6 engines. (Except for some wag who opined that the best way to deal with a faulty EGR valve was to do a Hemi or LS swap.😂)
I just changed my PVC valve in my 2015 Wrangler JKU. Took some patience to get the torx screws out. Bottom was easy but the top took some time. I bought the Dorman PVC valve this time for $28 from Amazon. The OEM Mopar part was $80 I installed last time. They look identical. We’ll see how the Dorman holds up. The OEM part lasted for a little over a year and started leaking. Best thing I did was install the hex head bolts that came with the Dorman PVC valve. So much easier to get a small box end wrench on them instead of trying to feel around with a torx bit and try to hit the hole. Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Smart move swapping those bolts!
i'm really digging the Bob Ross demeanor.
no loud home depot music playing over super fast camera shots.
I'll be coming back to this to change out my 2014's pcv
Hahahah love it, and happy you dig it! Thanks for watching
@@RubiconUnlimitedupdate: PCV vavle changed successfully. that little ratchet wrench saved the day. Thanks man!
@@void6714 you got it! Nice work!
The production and step by step guide is insane, thank you for putting in that effort. It helps us a lot.
I have fun doing it for you! Happy to hear it helped and you enjoyed it
Tackling this today. Should have done it when I did my tuneup last week but the PCV valve didn’t come in time and I didn’t want to wait to do the plugs. Going to follow your method and hope it goes smooth. I picked up a small thumb socket drive and think she will do the trick in the tight space for the bottom screw.
You got this!💪
Finished. Went a different route. I took out the battery tray which left me enough room to access top and bottom screws from the top of the engine. Getting the hose off took the most time. Even using piks. Just took pressure and time, as they say in Shawshank. One thing I realized was that the little circular palm socket I got was not gonna work. Not enough leverage to crack the screw. I had bought a small ratchet but the damn holes were square. The torx bit wouldn’t fit. Ran over to harbor freight and got a pack of stubby ratchets. Those barely worked but did the job. If you’re going to do this swap, get one of the small ratchets like in this video. What a pain in the ass repair. Jeep can kiss my entire ass for this design.
You should have listened to me about the ratchet to begin with, glad you finally got it done!
@@RubiconUnlimitedI ordered one. It had a square opening and the torx bit would not go in. Harbor freight didn’t have any. Made do with a stubby. She’s done and I think I’d throw the jeep out it if ever needed another PCV valve. lol.
Thanks for the tool recommendation. That little guy did the trick.
Glad it helped! I couldn't do it without
Great job with the explanation and tool identification!!!
If you lay under the jeep with an extra long flat head screw driver you can each up from below under the inner center and get the screw driver under the hose lip and break the seal. Once seal broken, from the top pull hard and the hose comes off
Nicely done helped me out a lot doing mine
Cheers
next on my list to try and clear a P0507 code I cannot nail down...great vid..
Great video man. Need to do this on my son's 2018 JLR with 69K miles (111,000 kms) on it... not looking forward to it. Probably do it the same time I swap out his dead shocks. Shame on Chrysler for this ridiculous location for such an important part, though I'm glad they redesigned the part to be twist on with no fasteners.
Glad to hear it's been updated! You'll be able to handle this fix, hope my video helps
Like changing the EGR valve on the 3.8
wow buddy, finally a real video showing all the complications of the process. Thanks a lot for great video and high quality on it.
probably a flexible drill bit extension can helps to remove screws.
I wanted something clear and concise that would also depict the kind of struggle you might experience. A flexible drill bit might work if you find the right angle, but it's tight! The mini wrench works great
Glad you’re back 😮
Glad to be back!
Pro tip: The lower bolt of the PCV valve is easy to access... from underneath the vehicle with the gearbox removed!
If you're doing a throwout bearing/clutch job, do the PCV valve at the same time. It's the only time it will ever be "easy".
Great tip for anyone in that situation
I laughed when I got the small ratchet from jeep when I bought mine. Now I'm realizing they are laughing at us saying "have fun in them tight spaces " 😂😂😂
I just returned the cheap PCV valve and ordered a Mopar. Thanks for the very informative detailed video. DIY is the way to go with labor nowadays and I am a mechanic! Bro, what kind of suspension do you have??? wtf 😳 ❤❤❤
Thanks! Happy to help! I have a 3" teraflex kit with falcon shocks. I did a video on the kit, you'll find it in my channel if you're curious
Like the video a lot. Very well thought out. Am I crazy or about 6:31 into the video did you hit your head on the hood just before you stepped out of frame?
Haha good eye, it's very likely! Constantly bonking my head
I installed rock lights in my engine bay. I am hoping that helps me change it out.
I have to do this week and it looks like a nuisance!
2017 wrangler with 110k miles. I’m sure never changed. I have rough idle and air mixture on bank 1. Changed coil and plug for cylinder 1 as I also had that code. No vacuum leaks I can find, likely this my culprit??
Thank you for the great video. I’m about to do this. Any update or noticeable improvement?
Definitely little to no oil in the tube going to the airbox. The drive feels smoother, hoping that isn't just a placebo effect! Haha
When you plug in the new Pcv with the smaller hole (compared to the wide hole on the old on) will it just slide on easy or do you have to put force in it when pushing it on? I heard someone say they had to put some force on it to go through that smaller hole on the Pcv
It's tighter but didn't take much force. Pretty much works itself out when you bolt it on
My Jeep doesn’t leak or eat any oil between oil changes, but I have noticed oil on my air filter (it’s a white filter so it’s very easily noticeable), should I be doing my pcv?
yes asap , before it gets into the intake and throttle
Think this might be the issue with my 2012 wrangler unlimited. Was told might need an engine rebuild. Did this fix your leak?
Yup!
I have a 2012 Wrangler too. What was going on with yours that you were told it needed to be rebuilt?
@@jeepinintexas6215on start up there would be a plume of smoke that was constant. It did not happen all the time. The pvc was replaced shortly after we noticed. Has not happened since!
@@tensixtythreecomics so it seems your valve was stuck open then? I suspect mine is stuck closed as I have some oil leaks that have appeared from nowhere it seems. I replaced my driver's side valve cover because the spark plug seals were leaking and it was fine for months. Now they are leaking again and I suspect my rear main seal is also leaking.
Did you do a tune up? Spark plugs, coils… that would have been the best time to replace the pcv valve with the whole intake off..
Yes i did that in the past but didn't think of it. Luckily it's not a horrible job going through the wheel well.
Great point!! I’m planning on a plug job and also an oil cooler housing swap. I’ll do the PCV then.
What codes popped up for you to find out it was the PCV ?
No codes here, just a visible oil leak
could you tell me what this simple piece of plastic does? I mean I know it has to do with the oil but it's just a tube with rubber that mopar justifies selling for $100+ while an aftermarket dorman is about $25
Thanks for making this video. Having watched it, I think I can do this myself.
Will you be tackling the EGR replacement in the future?
Cheers!
Thanks! Happy to hear you feel encouraged to tackle this one, it's totally doable. No plans on the EGR, not even quite sure what that is
@@RubiconUnlimited The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve is another emissions-control device. On the 3.8 litre V6 in the older JKs, it is on the back of the engine. There are plenty of videos showing how to replace the EGR on those engines. But so far, I haven’t been able to find any information on how it’s done on the 3.6 litre V6 engines. (Except for some wag who opined that the best way to deal with a faulty EGR valve was to do a Hemi or LS swap.😂)
Haha a Hemi swap sounds like fun 🤠 I'll consider the ERG video if it ever comes time to swap it out. Thanks
Never mind, I cut a 1.5¨ hole in the firewall
Im thinking it would help u if u open your hood alllll the way and lean it on your roof / windshield frame
dat broll 🎉
Thanks man! Knew you'd appreciate it!
You can get the the bottom bolt from under the car no reason to disassemble anything
U need to replace the valve cover gasket lol
Oh I'm aware and have already done that repair. 10/10 pain in the 🍑
Or you can have your local dealer do it for $207. That’s just labor alone. For a PCV valve 🙄
Lmao 3 days later 🤣😂🤣😂 jk
Take your watch off.
Haha yeah great tip, for safety sake and for preventing your watch from getting ruined... Also fitting into tight spaces.
Horrible vehicle
Its experiences not just a car 💪🏽 life ain’t all ups