Elegoo resin vs. Prusa resin vs. PETG vs. PLA
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2020
- With resin 3D printers becoming more accessible than ever, one of the big unknowns is still how strong and usable the UV resin prints actually end up. But that’s exactly what we’re going to find out today by testing Elegoo ABS-like resin vs. Prusa Tough resin vs. DAS FILAMENT PLA vs DAS FILAMENT PETG!
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My big issue with resin prints is that they seem to continue to cure and become more brittle over time. PLA and PETg do get more brittle as well. I'd love to see a "6 month followup" where you print some parts in common materials, let them sit out in ambient for 6mo-1yr and then retest them to see how the properties changed over time
I can follow up on this.
It all depends on the resin.
Engineering resins that I have tested like Siraya Blu and Tenacious don't change over time.
In fact it's recommended to cure them under high UV power at 60c for 1 hour or more.
Now the cheaper resins on the other hand do become more brittle.
And as an extra bonus Glock frames made from a Siraya blu and tenacious mix perform rather well.
And leave one in a south window or just out on a fence...
@@rgstever can you use those "engineering resins" with "home resin printers" ? :D
@@jesperchristensen8462 i would like to know this as well
@@jesperchristensen8462 Yeah, they're just expensive.
Very nice! Great to see you back at material testing!
Yeah but could you lend your testing equipment to Tom?? Help him a little bit. ;-)
My crazy idea is that Tom, Stefan, and other like-minded experts (like fellow commenter Michael Gibilterra) get together and create some standard test methods and open-source hardware test equipment to enable many materials to be tested in a consistent manner and post all of the results on the Toms3D, CNC Kitchen, Meltzone, or other website. Sure would be handy. And hardly any work at all.
Two of my most popular 3d people :D collab collab collab
Hello and, again, welcome to the Aperture Science computer-aided enrichment center.
yep
You do what you must, because you can!
where is the cake?
ASCAEC?
@@marcel5837 The cake is a lie
Resin prints most definitely are affected by print orientation. Just touch it with a soldering iron and you'll see the way it delaminates at print layer.
Cure your resin prints in water. It will get rid of the sticky surface. The reason for stickiness is the oxygen in air which blocks the curing process. Water bath solves that.
The fact that one resin is transparent and the other is opaque in visible light says nothing about their transparency in UV.
Not testing resin prints printed with different layer exposure times is also something that should be addressed.
Hi, new to resin printing as a concept. Just watching some vids and came across this one.
Whats the reasoning behind oxygen causing curing issues? Reason I ask is because of the obvious. While the air we breath is O2, water is H2O. Both containing oxygen.
Could water be better not because of oxygen differences but maybe rather the extinction coefficient of water? IV doesn't travel straight through water, it actually reflects/mirages through water. Perhaps this causes the models to receive more UV overall, as the angles would be more "random"? I know UV loses strength the deeper the water, but I don't think a depth of 8" of water would have any meaningful effect on the degradation of the UV rays.
Great video Tom. I would like to see some Charts/Tables with the results. To compare it visually easier. Thanks for your work:)
Wow, thank you, this really helps me. I use Peth and resins to do props and testing items for work. This clears out lot of things for me. Keep it up, knowledge is power!
Yes!!! More, please. I have been looking and waiting for such testing. Thank you.
Prusa called, he wants his printers back.
Hey tom, I’m a plastics engineer with experience doing mechanical tests on 3D printed parts. If you’re interested I’d be happy to help you doing future videos by helping you get your facts right and possibly doing some tests on the proper test equipment
My crazy idea is that Tom, Stefan, and other like-minded experts (like you) get together and create some standard test methods and open-source hardware test equipment to enable many materials to be tested in a consistent manner and post all of the results on the Toms3D, CNC Kitchen, Meltzone, or other website. Sure would be handy. And hardly any work at all.
@@mikemike7001 This is one of the brightest thoughts I've seen for a while!
@@mikemike7001 I am just beginning my first 3D printing (primarily mSLA) business and what you just suggested would be something that I would watch, use, and personally market on my website both to help me prove out selected material strength and pay back for the help in making more intelligent choices.
Keep it up, Tom. This was fascinating, and a truly informative test.
Thanks for all the work you put in!
Great stuff! Thanks for conducting these tests!
I think its great to see a technical look at these printers vs filaments, some other channels have done it but it is good to get trusted advise
I would like to see a print orientation test. You just assumed the results would be the same without showing any data to support it. I know the process should make the results the same, but testing is the only way to confirm.
The process actually shouldn't make the finished product isotropic. Resin printers still print in layers, just much thinner layers, so orientation will make a difference
@@dougiethompson2822 if you check CNC Kitchen channel you can find a video with resin prints test in each orientation, every test shows clearly its like 45kg vs 42kg, its very minor difference
@@MrTiranei 3 Kg is a greater difference than what separates the layer adhesion strengths of PLA and PETG (2.1 kg difference) , though -- I'd say 3 kilos is non-negligible for some applications at the very least.
@@MrTiranei 3KG isn't a minor difference...
@@Krytern its barely 6%, in this case it doesnt matter too much, resin prints have overall similar strength no matter which way printed
Hey man! Love your videos.
I'm always looking around for videos like this. Looking forward to more!
My experience with resin for parts that undergoe repeated stress is that layer orientation does matter. I encourage you to print those test pieces flat and at 45/45 angles across the xy axis.
Interesting video Thom, thanks for expanding on the material testing. And great new desk btw. ;)
Awesome. Thanks Tom. Exactly what I was waiting and looking for.
Awesome tests! Thanks for the video Tom!
Great work. Thank you!
Really like your scientific / engineering approach to these videos.
I would love to see the estimated material cost per print in addition to the print strengths tests.
Very good vid Tom, very informative, thanks for all your work.
Thanks for this video, Tom! A ton of useful info.
The performance of the Elegoo resin really surprised me.
clear resins are stronger that standard solid blue /solid white and especially solid grey. also washable resins are uniformly weaker. shear fracture is a real problem (twisting). eSun has a hard/tough resin that I've had good success with, although it uses a more complex post curing regimen.
Thanks for a very informative ideo Tom, there were some very good things there that will stay with me for some time. Thanks again. Ps the studio is looking very clean and sharp
Yeah!! more videos like this please!
Thank you! More videos with these
Type of tests for elegoo would be great really debating on buying a printer to make tools and brackets
I’ve been noticing that the curing times of resin are SIGNIFICANTLY greater that what anyone with a TH-cam channel has been stating. Using the Elegoo ABS Like resins, and a 60W UV lamp, I’ve been noticing that it takes at least 2 hours to cure prints, if not longer. There is a huge difference in stiffness with those that have been cured for 2+ hours, and those under 2 hours.
Which brings up another point. It would take days to weeks to cure prints outside under a bright Sun, even here in San Diego where we typically have a UV index between 8 and 12. It would be interesting to see you and CNC Kitchen do some research into this from both the resin manufacturer side, and actual tests.
What kind of lamp are you using? Clear Crystal quartz or blacklight style UV lamp?
Deneteus neither. I am using an 405nm LED UV lamp, which has even less loss than crystal quartz does. I doubt anyone uses any type of UV bulb today.
@@KaelumYodi Commercial resin curing does that's why I asked specifics. They make equipment specifically for fast curing of resins. You can cure using UVC bulbs used in the medical industry for deactivating bacteria in air conditioning.
Deneteus I should have said that it isn’t practical today, to use UV bulbs for anything outside of extreme environmental conditions (i.e. extreme heat). Bulbs can’t produce as narrow a bandwidth of light as LEDs can, they are extremely expensive to manufacture, they have short lifetimes, and they lose at least 10-20% of their energy just from shining through their encloser (crystal or other, as real glass blocks at least 90% of the UV). Anywho, since I am using a UV lamp of the wavelength that the resin is specifically designed to react to, this is not an issue.
I suspect short cure just makes the print possible to handle and kicks off the curing, but does not achieve high degree of crosslinking, because that's just what manufacturers optimise for, they want to occupy the curing machine as little as possible and ship things to the customers and hope they'll take a while to actually load and break things, weeks or so. I suspect the curing once started doesn't actually stop when you stop blasting it with UV, it just continues more slowly.
Which then brings the issue that if my conjecture above is true, then all kinds of mechanical tests on prints that were done yesterday, are not valid during the life of the part several months after initial manufacture.
Beautiful studio Thomas!!!
Thank you. Great detailed video. Just what I was looking for.
I'm very surprised how good PLA holds up. I always thought I'm missing out and everything else is an order of magnitude better. Great tests Tom!
PLA is Remarkably Adequate, especially for how easy it is to print with. It's no surprise that it has become the basic default and many people don't bother straying away from it (myself included).
Valuable information!
Thank you.
Great video! Very informative and very well done. Thank you!!
That was truly comprehensive! Thanks 👍 🙏
Tom, I would love to see this test with the siraya blue and the siraya tenacious blended with other resins.
Thank You, this is very informative and helpful. Keep this up. keep creating informative videos like this. 🙂🙂🙂
An excellent experiment and review
A very informative video. Thank you. Kind of disappointed that none of the upgraded PLA's were tested nor any of the nylon's. I've been using PLA+ and PLA2 for over a year and haven't used regular PLA for quite a while. I'm about to try Filacube's HT-PLA+ which has a glass transition temperature of 85C after annealing (PETG is 80C).
It would be great if you could get some higher grade resins (dental-tough-flexible etc) for testing.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video sir. I am sorry to hear about what ever happened with Amazon. I don't know much with 3D printers, I am so new to it, my order for mine has not shipped yet. But one thing I want to say since you mentioned it at the end of this video is this, Matter Hackers, I watched a video of theirs recently where they was helping a lady who has a disability, helping her with thing to help her use things like a drinking cup, use a tool 3D printed so you can swipe her card at a gas station for fuel etc. When I seen that video, I was so impressed I decided from now on, they will get my money.
Thanks again and keep up the awesome videos sir.
Dale
Loved the video, pls more experiment videos like this ones
More of those tests 👍
Currently I'm doing some of these tests myself, creating a model of a WW1 biplane (Roland D VI a). I want to keep it's fragile look while beeng robust enough to survive the unavailable conflicts with mother earth and it's gravity 😒 without getting too heavy. On the weight side, balsa wood wins all the way but when it comes to shape accuracy and robustness, PLA+ is doing very well. I am still testing the combination of 3D printed parts with CFK rods or carbon rowings+epoxy at some spots.
Anyway, very informative and keep doing this 😉
Wow awesome video Thomas. Thanks for this. I'm really surprised the resin is that good. I only have experience with PLA and PETG and noticed that PLA, being semi crystalline, seems to become more brittle over time, or is even seemingly getting a higher Young's modulus or lower density based on the sound. I would also expect a UV curable resin to have aging issues. I did not notice that of PETG (yet). Perhaps a suggestion to store some of these samples in a representative space and repeat the tests a year from now? I would prefer more mainstream blends though.
Please review more resins, I am looking to get a resin printer and this would be very helpful. Thank you!
Please do the other tough resins like Siraya and Formlabs tough resins
Lately I have discovered (in my experience anyways) Hero Resin is the my top teir in that price range. Im going to talk to Matt Remus and see if him or Craig can get some of their stuff out to Tom to get included.
I’d be curious to see Siraya Blu tested! In other strength tests I’ve seen, they noted increased strength by curing under warm water vs cold... if you go that route
Love the testing videos👍
Very nice test!
Thank you for the informative video. Although the SLA did well for some reason I expected it to be even stronger.
Thanks Tom, I wondered how these stacked in next to each other.
Nice tests! Would be interesting to also test Formlabs resin, especially their glass filled and Tough resin. It's also 4x the price so you would expect better performance.
Resins have become far more interesting recently - it's good to see manufacturers bringing new variations to market. Also, beginning to see the appeal of Prusa's curing station, although still quite costly compared to a couple of nail curing stations and some 405nm lamps.
amazing video tom
I'm all for videos related to 'real world' applications. I don't think we get enough of that.
it would have been interresting to test several orientations for the resin as well , just to be sure if it s a factor or not. Thanks for the video anyway from which i got valuable informations.
According to Phil G(?) and CNCKitchen it is not...
nice video. did you by chance had a look at the deformation of the springs after applying load? Maybe you could run a test to see how much each material could take before loosing shape :)
That's interesting, I know petg is durable but I didn't think fully dried that is would flex so much. Awesome video 👍
Finally some actual data about the durability of resin prints!!! 😁Very interesting results. The dimensional accuracy of SLA with at least PETG material performance make a very compelling argument for using SLA to produce functional parts.
If you're going to do more testing in future, may I suggest:
Does prolonged UV exposure affect ductility? The claim / doubt / worry is that the resin will continue to cure over time, and become more brittle. Temperature resistance data for resin prints is often hard or impossible to come by, so that would be very useful data.
Thanks for the great video!
At work all the older resin prints are aged looking in a nasty yellow tint and extremely weak by comparison to new ones, so yes. It doesn’t take a super long time either and these are stored indoors (I’ve got FDM gears that are still fine even 6 years later on my printer and it’s sitting right next to a window, so ABS really doesn’t deteriorate as bad as resin even after a few years)
@@jakegarrett8109 , does that hold for ABS-like resin?
While I agree most folks don't tune all their filaments, this leaves one problem nevertheless: You might test one material that's just about perfectly tuned-simply by chance-and another that's way off from its perfect settings. If all are equally "mistuned" it's fine, but without calibration, you just never know where they stand.
Apart from that: very interesting test, thanks!
Would love to see an analysis of the effects of water curing in the CW1.
Tom! Thank you!
I don't normally laugh out loud at TH-cam, but "Stop... Hammer Time" got me.
Great video Tom - weird to see people think that CNC Kitchen did this first!
Your video gave me an idea. What if you added finely ground or chopped glass or carbon fiber in the resin. To keep it in suspension attach a tube to both end of the tray and use a small centrifical pump to circulate the resin across the tray while printing. I could probably waste my time and file a patent on this but I already have too many now. In addition the circulating system could have an external reservoir so that you don't have to continually fill the tray on large prints. Great channel and good luck.
I can confirm that clear resin has greater difficulty curing than a solid color resin. I encountered this when going from basic grey to a clear green resin. The clear needed double the burn in layer time to even stick to the build plate.
Please add heat deflection to your testing. Super interested in knowing if resin can be used making a cooling fan for example. Not allot of info out there on resin heat deflection properties in comparison to FDM materials. As always, thank you for the awesome videos.
...Stefan - is that you? ;-) Thanks for the info & content, Thomas!
I love the way you makes these videos and fun friendly attitude. I have learn a lot about 3D printing from you thanks. Can I ask are there any resins that will be completely clear. I restore vintage radios on my channel and need to make some clear radio knobs.
Excellent video. Super interesting to see how resin compares to fdm. And congratulations on the new lab, but I would be weary of the AI you installed.
Awesome test, thank you Thomas! You should check out Sirayas tough resins such as Siraya Blu and Blu clear. They outperform Elegoos resins by a large margin in my experience.
I'd love to see Elegoo's grey water washable resin tested. It's the only water washable resin they sell in my area and I wonder if it's any good to make functional part as people have started asking me to make some but I worry about their safety. Maybe I'll find out how to test it myself although it's not something I'm familiar with. Nice video!
Filaween was a great tool for learning.
However, as long as we buy quality filaments, there do not seem to be huge differences.
It is important to understand when to use which material, but I usually do not choose one specific manufacturer to get the last 5% of material strenghts into the design.
For the resins, we now see massive differences in properties.
Differences of the scale between different materials in FDM.
In this case, choosing the right manufacturer definently needs to be considered for mechanical parts.
This was one of the most informative videos in the 3D printing space I have seen in a long time.
Keep it up! I would love to see an analysis of the difference between transparent and opaque materials.
And of course between manufactureres in general.
I'd recommend a focus on "tough resins". Since this is what would be chosen by the customers for mechanical prints.
"Normal" resins, for figurines etc. will be used less for mechanical prints. So there is less gain in analyzing them.
Love the channel good sir.
Unrelated question, what kind of workbench are you putting together in the beginning?
really nice tests. can you share the holder and the structure of your test and test files? I would like to build it after
I dunno if other have that issue but what i do find is that white, black and transparent pla, seems to work better in my machine than other colors. I dunno if the coloring process somehow picks up humidity but if i want my most rigid pla, i use the white or transparent of the ones i got
How did you get that B+ filament from das filament? Every time I look it is out of stock
Any way you could do some cold weather testing with some test prints? I'm interested to see how resin prints hold up in freezing temps vs filaments such as PETG, PLA, ASA.
id like to suggest additives to the resin. such as siraya tenacious and Monocure Flex100 for even more str
Just checking, is there a moisture component to some of the resins used in 3D printing that will evaporate out over time? Or are you just referring to how completely set the resin is or isn't when you describe it as dry or wet?
subbed :)just got the new elegoo mars 2 green! will be getting ender 3 max soon, love your videos!
Just subscribed. Please test the siraya tough resins, and also the flexible mixed in with regular resins.
Many in the miniature printing community add 10% flexible resin to their normal resin.
cool video. makes me curious on glass transition temps,
voll guter Test super 👍👍
Very nice Video, what posturing parameters do you use? Because with 405nm curing cambers you are usually looking at 2-3h posturing to reach full polymerization.
Happy Resintine's Day, Tom! I wonder how the resin hammer-test parts would do if you made multiple thin parts that you put in the holder side by side. Being thin, they might cure better.
Would love to see the effect of doubling the layer exposure time
Interesting. Thanks for sharing
Hello and thank you for the unbiased opinion
It would have been interesting to test against actual ABS to check the "ABS-like" label on the Elegoo resin
I find it odd that he didn't have ABS in these tests.
Nice! If you want your resin prints to have a hard surface, you must post cure them underwater. Oxygen inhibits the upper layer polymerization, so you have to get rid of it. Also, some resins like warm post curing, and some don't, resulting in brittleness. You must test or follow the instructions accordingly. Thanks for the tests!
Hi, thanks a lot for your apport, do you know If resins still have the issues about that has to be washed in isopropyl alcohol, the odor and that are unfriendly for skin? I refer to its usage after is cured, eg. A wrist watch done with resin would have odor and could damage my skin?
hi, great vid and considerations.
what about tests with temperature-stress, chemical agents stress (e.g. gasoline, petrol, alcohol, ...), water resistance..
thanks
By the way, I love your hoodie or whatever the name of your clothes, looks amazing!
Been missing tests with resin.. Would be nice to see some of the eco resins aswell :)
Lovely, didn't miss Stephan one bit!
Hi there. I’ve just been watching your video very good too might I add. Have you ever tried creating a part. And placing say a rod like part inside the model. So while your printing it. You stop half way through your print and insert your rod or carbon fibre part. Then restart your print.? Just curious if anyone else has or not.?🤔
I looove the scientific method used. It's soooo nice
Just wondering if you've ever used the tmc 2209 drivers? Are there any better drivers for 3d printing, and how to they compare to the 2130
Prusa also has an ABS like resin. I would have liked you to test it, because it is pretty expensive.
Can we get an updated version including SirayaTech along with their Tenacious additives? That would be super interesting to compare how much Tenacious helps.
I am curious how all of this stacks up against normal 2-part mix resins like Alumilite corp AlumiRes RC-3. I am only using my printer to make positives that I can mold in RTV and then mass produce with a faster (and presumably stronger) resin part because it has no weak adhesion lines.
test videos are very useful! maybe try different design strength test
Did you factor in leverage force from the fulcrum when bending? If not the overall force will be a multiple of what is reading on the meter