Lovely joint mate, I've had plenty of issues with out of square walls also! The best way for me is to cut the first joint then lay onto other worktop mark underside then mark my 9mm from the mark and set jig to that!
I've done this on worktops like this with a gap bigger than half inch. I offer up 2 end panels to the corner in the position where worktops would be placed to establish how much the corner is out and take a measurement of whatever the gap is to nothing.What I do then is pinch a bit on the female joint also, then the rest on the male also. I remove the reference peg furthest away from the male joint when throwing out a joint a large amount to ensure your using your closest peg as your edge reference for the male joint. Otherwise I've learnt that you can end up using the peg furthest away from the joint as your reference which can create a gap between your worktop edge and the peg closest to the joint, giving you an untrue edge reference meaning the joint isn't going to it's full depth and won't match up properly in the front corner, creating a gap at the back of the worktop. Great video, just thought I'd add this from experience and to help anyone who already has their worktops and is in a position where they need to offset a bit more.
Did you have to recut just the straight bit or did you have to router out all the join as if doing a new piece. Did the router go over the curved bit again?
I try not I scribe to the wall to be honest, as this will change the overhang on the u it’s, If the walls are bad and they arnt being tiled to get over it I will always add an updated to hide the gaps. Hope this helps
Hi chap, great information. On a seperate note how do you join cornice or pelmet on a run of say 5 mtrs long so that the joint isn't noticeable, thanks in advance
Hi buddy, you will never get it completely invisible but if you mitre it a 45degrees along the run it will be a lot less visible then a straight cut. Hope this helps
hello, thanks for your video. I have a stupid question. Why is the Masson mitre going so "deep/far" at the beginning of the angle, instead of just going a couple of mm, let's say 5mm (or less), just enough to go past the round border of the worktop? Would it look less aesthetic? Why is the standard way going so deep inner the worktop?
You can buy two different types of jigs, one will do a small mitre and this one that dose the larger, I use this as this will cover me for most worktops, saves carry more then one jig around, hope this helps
Hi you got any videos on fitting two cupboards in the corner of a wall when the wall isn't sqaure I put a 600mm sqaure in the corner and it's 10mm out do I try and shim it and half and half I've got end panels so you won't see it? Help!!
Great videos, I’m really keen on getting into joinery, I’m 19 and have been looking for an apprenticeship for over a year now. Unfortunately nothing is really coming up and the few I’ve applied for I never hear back from. What would you suggest? I’ve applied for college but that’ll only be the qualification and college workshops as appose to the hands on work. So I don’t want to waste a few years at college doing the theory and not practical, as I think the practical side of things is important, keep up the good work👍🏼
Well I would still do the college as the qualification wouldn’t be a waste it’s always handy to have that. As for the apprenticeship I would ring every building/carpentry company you can find within an area your willing to travel to, if you have the college sorted your more then likely to find the work, even if it’s not strictly an apprenticeship aslong as your getting qualified and doing hands on work you’ll be well on your way.
@@LTWCarpentry thank you for the quick. Response, I have applied for collage just waiting on their reply, keep up the good work I’ll be defiantly using these videos to build my own knowledge when I get to college etc :)👍🏼
Great video Lewis. Work tops, what a pain they can be… I’ve tried to cut them out of square and as you mentioned you have to be careful or the hockey stick profile can change…
@@LTWCarpentry trend sell a pivot gadget for out of square rooms. You basically clamp it to the jig, then pivot it and it keeps the profile. I’ve only used mine a few times and need more practice. 😬
Hi mate, great vid. Question, how would you join the mitre if theres a sink cut out over the bolts on the female side. Due to the design of the kitchen the sink has to go there but there's no room to fit the worktop bolts underneath. Cheers
Nick a bit on both male AND female side. Stops the front edge gap from opening up too. Look for a kitchen fitting video by Gid Joiner....he shows how he knocks the jig back for the Female cut and the scribes on the male side
Sometimes yes but the problem with that is you want to keep a consistent over hang on your worktop, if you start planning the back edge your going to change the amount of overhang you have
I've had this with walls. Out of square. And to keep the over hang on the front of the units . Cut the wall and taken some of the excess off of the units on the back Gives me a I little to play with. Nice square up and if done right always turns out great. . But that is normally on really bad walls . And I've seen some bad walls over the years
If you don't bisect the angle and allow for both male and female cuts on a 30mm jig with rounded edge worktops, then the profile on the front edge will not match. The bigger the angle, the worst it gets !. Ok with square edge Worktops with a 10mm jig . Anything over 110 degs and your in trouble .
The right way to do this is to let that worktop sail past say 100mm and just pencil line along the female joint on to the overhung piece of worktop. Set the jig to your pencil line cut it once job done, id still do it like that even if it was perfectly square as it just works right everytime. Just my opinion, everyone does things differently 👍
If you set you jig on the pencil line then the worktop will come up 9mm wrong, you will still have to off set it either way. I wouldn’t say this your way is the right way, it’s just another way. Thanks for you comment.
@@LTWCarpentry yes you have to offset the jig 9mm to allow for the guide bush but keeping it parallel with the line you've marked, I've never known anyone to cut it at a dead 90 degrees off the jig in the 'hope' it might fit rather than marking it up 'knowing' it's going to fit. Refitting the jig to recut the joint that you've just cut is not normal practice, measure twice cut once. Like I said it's just my opinion.
Actually depends on the jig, my dad has one from the 80's that we still use, it's made of aluminium and it's actually a copy of an original. This jig with the correct router collet will cut the join along the pencil mark as suggested in the comment above. @@LTWCarpentry
Yep that's how my old man taught me to do them.He's being doing it for 50 years now, lay it on top and mark it, or underneath, it'll be correct every time. Cutting twice is double the work and also having to lift the top in and out of the kitchen. @@dannym670
Nice job but you can but and scribe no matter how far the wall are out of square by not using the pins for the second cut i developed a way over 20years agowhich is a secret only to me, almost give my method to trend its about timeto let my method public
Throw away the pins for the second cut keep your tape in your pocket secret is the position of the jig for the second cut easy with my method you will have to cut once first time every time
Ooooh you drama queen. For anyone interested check out kitchen install by Gid Joiner on TH-cam. Shows you how it's done. Pins are indeed removed for 2nd cut....biggest problem I can see is how to determine the router bit entry point with precision.
Underrated channel, brilliant content, love your wardrobe build videos, simple, to the point and easy to follow.....
Cheers buddy, I really appreciate that mate. Thanks for the support 🍻
Lovely joint mate, I've had plenty of issues with out of square walls also! The best way for me is to cut the first joint then lay onto other worktop mark underside then mark my 9mm from the mark and set jig to that!
Cheers mate, yes I have done this a few times aswell buddy,
I've done this on worktops like this with a gap bigger than half inch. I offer up 2 end panels to the corner in the position where worktops would be placed to establish how much the corner is out and take a measurement of whatever the gap is to nothing.What I do then is pinch a bit on the female joint also, then the rest on the male also. I remove the reference peg furthest away from the male joint when throwing out a joint a large amount to ensure your using your closest peg as your edge reference for the male joint. Otherwise I've learnt that you can end up using the peg furthest away from the joint as your reference which can create a gap between your worktop edge and the peg closest to the joint, giving you an untrue edge reference meaning the joint isn't going to it's full depth and won't match up properly in the front corner, creating a gap at the back of the worktop. Great video, just thought I'd add this from experience and to help anyone who already has their worktops and is in a position where they need to offset a bit more.
Never adjust the female cut. Been a fitter for 30 years…never ever have I done that.
Perfect joint
Cheers buddy! 🍻👍
very very helpful as always.. genuine nice guy that wants to help others.. top marks my friend.. its nice to be nice as the saying goes.
Cheers Lee ! I really appreciate that mate ! Means a lot ! 🍻
Did you have to recut just the straight bit or did you have to router out all the join as if doing a new piece. Did the router go over the curved bit again?
That's a great way to do it ,thanks for your great tips
Thanks very much Richard ! 🍻
Hi there, could you tell me if you scribe the female joint to the wall first and then cut the female joint? Or do the joint first then scribe?
I try not I scribe to the wall to be honest, as this will change the overhang on the u it’s, If the walls are bad and they arnt being tiled to get over it I will always add an updated to hide the gaps. Hope this helps
I’m old school have been doing this for years before that I used to hand cut joints with hand saw level and a plan
Bloody hell mate, that takes some skill dosnt it ! It’s there a lot of time difference in it ?
Was younger then could Chuck work too around and yes it was slower than with a jig but gave me pleasure different skill set back then mate
Great work mate
Cheers buddy 🍻
Would that throw out the cut on the other end causing you to also need to cut the last piece off square?
No buddy, that’s why I’m scribing the mitre so I can keep it all inline
Your channels been a great help for me! Can I ask, do you need to leave an expansion gap between the laminate worktop and walls?
Good video Lewis
Cheers vic 👍🏻
Nice work, is colourfil the best thing to use on joints?
Hi chap, great information. On a seperate note how do you join cornice or pelmet on a run of say 5 mtrs long so that the joint isn't noticeable, thanks in advance
Hi buddy, you will never get it completely invisible but if you mitre it a 45degrees along the run it will be a lot less visible then a straight cut. Hope this helps
Thanks for your advice mate
And thank you for the comment buddy 🍻🍻
Nice explained mate. True Pro
Thank you buddy ! I really appreciate it !
hello, thanks for your video. I have a stupid question. Why is the Masson mitre going so "deep/far" at the beginning of the angle, instead of just going a couple of mm, let's say 5mm (or less), just enough to go past the round border of the worktop? Would it look less aesthetic? Why is the standard way going so deep inner the worktop?
You can buy two different types of jigs, one will do a small mitre and this one that dose the larger, I use this as this will cover me for most worktops, saves carry more then one jig around, hope this helps
You can offset it. Stick a packer between jig pin and worktop. Remember to do it on both cuts though!!!
Good work 👍🏻. Is it possible to add Danish subtitles to videos. Think you can add them when you upload your videos. Sincerely, Lars from Denmark 🇬🇧🇩🇰.
I think I have done that now Lars, let know if it works or not buddy, thanks for the support 🍻🍻
Hi you got any videos on fitting two cupboards in the corner of a wall when the wall isn't sqaure I put a 600mm sqaure in the corner and it's 10mm out do I try and shim it and half and half I've got end panels so you won't see it? Help!!
So why you flipped over male side ?
you have to router right to left to stop tear out
Great videos, I’m really keen on getting into joinery, I’m 19 and have been looking for an apprenticeship for over a year now. Unfortunately nothing is really coming up and the few I’ve applied for I never hear back from. What would you suggest? I’ve applied for college but that’ll only be the qualification and college workshops as
appose to the hands on work. So I don’t want to waste a few years at college doing the theory and not practical, as I think the practical side of things is important, keep up the good work👍🏼
Well I would still do the college as the qualification wouldn’t be a waste it’s always handy to have that. As for the apprenticeship I would ring every building/carpentry company you can find within an area your willing to travel to, if you have the college sorted your more then likely to find the work, even if it’s not strictly an apprenticeship aslong as your getting qualified and doing hands on work you’ll be well on your way.
@@LTWCarpentry thank you for the quick. Response, I have applied for collage just waiting on their reply, keep up the good work I’ll be defiantly using these videos to build my own knowledge when I get to college etc :)👍🏼
@@tomfox7345 good luck buddy ! Keep me updated !
Great video Lewis.
Work tops, what a pain they can be… I’ve tried to cut them out of square and as you mentioned you have to be careful or the hockey stick profile can change…
Yes it can indeed that’s why I suggest in doing it on a small amount, I have done this before and messed the hockey stick up myself !
@@LTWCarpentry trend sell a pivot gadget for out of square rooms. You basically clamp it to the jig, then pivot it and it keeps the profile. I’ve only used mine a few times and need more practice. 😬
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. ohh really, I didn’t know that do you know the name of it Dan ?
@@LTWCarpentry trend true cut.
Tried to share a link..
Nice job - you make it look so easy 👍👍
Cheers Rob, just plenty of practice 😂😂
Great video !!!!!
Cheers Micheal
What do you do if your wall is out by 60mm? I'm having a brain block on how to go about fitting the work top and getting it to look right?
What make of clamps do you use ?
Very good vid and tradesman 👌
I use bessy duo clamps, not the cheapest but very very goo clamps, thanks for the comment buddy 👍🏻
Nice job!! keep it up:))
Cheer Robert 🍻🍻
Do you use biscuits at all?
Yes mate I use dominos but not on the tutorials
@LTWCarpentry that would be a good video I'm sure.
@@KenDavies-z4m I’ll look into it mate 🍻🍻
Hi mate, great vid. Question, how would you join the mitre if theres a sink cut out over the bolts on the female side. Due to the design of the kitchen the sink has to go there but there's no room to fit the worktop bolts underneath. Cheers
Hi buddy, can you do the join the other way so the bolts don’t go under the sink ? I.e make the sink section the female rather then the male ?
@@LTWCarpentry sorry mate, I meant the sink is on the female side, with the drainer close to the mitre.
So what do I do if the corner angle is 83 degrees, more than a couple of my out? Doing my head in trying to figure it out? Lol
Another great tip butty
Cheers for the support buddy 🍻🍻
I would like to see what happens if the walls are more than 2mm out,because they are definitely not as square as the one you are doing.
Well you could always change to a square edge worktop if really bad but like I said in the video you can do this for more then 2mm out
Nick a bit on both male AND female side. Stops the front edge gap from opening up too.
Look for a kitchen fitting video by Gid Joiner....he shows how he knocks the jig back for the Female cut and the scribes on the male side
Do you ever plane or tracksaw the wall side edge to bring it square.
Sometimes yes but the problem with that is you want to keep a consistent over hang on your worktop, if you start planning the back edge your going to change the amount of overhang you have
I've had this with walls. Out of square. And to keep the over hang on the front of the units . Cut the wall and taken some of the excess off of the units on the back Gives me a I little to play with. Nice square up and if done right always turns out great. . But that is normally on really bad walls . And I've seen some bad walls over the years
If you don't bisect the angle and allow for both male and female cuts on a 30mm jig with rounded edge worktops, then the profile on the front edge will not match. The bigger the angle, the worst it gets !. Ok with square edge Worktops with a 10mm jig . Anything over 110 degs and your in trouble .
You can clearly see from my video that it work perfectly fine with small amounts as stated in my video
If you're working left to right, Just overlay your 2nd worktop onto the 1st male side to mark & cut. Nothing else is required.
@@kevh3113 agreed but that isn’t bisecting the angle at all is it, that’s doing exactly what I show in the video
Yes. It's doing it your way once, not twice.
The right way to do this is to let that worktop sail past say 100mm and just pencil line along the female joint on to the overhung piece of worktop.
Set the jig to your pencil line cut it once job done, id still do it like that even if it was perfectly square as it just works right everytime.
Just my opinion, everyone does things differently 👍
If you set you jig on the pencil line then the worktop will come up 9mm wrong, you will still have to off set it either way. I wouldn’t say this your way is the right way, it’s just another way. Thanks for you comment.
@@LTWCarpentry yes you have to offset the jig 9mm to allow for the guide bush but keeping it parallel with the line you've marked, I've never known anyone to cut it at a dead 90 degrees off the jig in the 'hope' it might fit rather than marking it up 'knowing' it's going to fit. Refitting the jig to recut the joint that you've just cut is not normal practice, measure twice cut once.
Like I said it's just my opinion.
Actually depends on the jig, my dad has one from the 80's that we still use, it's made of aluminium and it's actually a copy of an original. This jig with the correct router collet will cut the join along the pencil mark as suggested in the comment above. @@LTWCarpentry
Yep that's how my old man taught me to do them.He's being doing it for 50 years now, lay it on top and mark it, or underneath, it'll be correct every time. Cutting twice is double the work and also having to lift the top in and out of the kitchen. @@dannym670
@@jimmyk9523that sounds interesting, what size guide bush does it use, take it cant be you standard 30mm one
Nice job but you can but and scribe no matter how far the wall are out of square by not using the pins for the second cut i developed a way over 20years agowhich is a secret only to me, almost give my method to trend its about timeto let my method public
Throw away the pins for the second cut keep your tape in your pocket secret is the position of the jig for the second cut easy with my method you will have to cut once first time every time
Interested to hear more about what you're doing here.
Ooooh you drama queen. For anyone interested check out kitchen install by Gid Joiner on TH-cam. Shows you how it's done.
Pins are indeed removed for 2nd cut....biggest problem I can see is how to determine the router bit entry point with precision.